What I wish I knew about climbing training
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Yes, three things I wish I knew and understood many more years before now! However, that's the nature of things and I hope this video might fast track your progress a little better.
You can't understate the importance of each of these 3 things. The bonus tip though, make sure you keep it fun and share the love!
Thank you:
@thenorthface_aunz
@tenayaclimbing
@BlackDiamondEquipmentLtd Australia
@CLIFBarCompany
Chalk Cartel
Awesome Woodys
Thrive Sport Nutrition
Australian Climbing Podcast - www.baffledays.com.au
When you sandbag yourself 🤣🤣
All great points. Nice one.
Cheers mate, big fan of your work!
As for long term goals, alot of my climbing friends say "I want [insert grade] by the end of the year" but I think your comments on consistency and enjoying the ride are usually underlooked. Personally my goal is 2km of vertical distance outside. Only way to do such a thing is to get on rock every weekend. Work the proj then hit some fun easy climbs for volume. NOTHING beats the flow state leading up a wall regardless of its difficulty. Thanks for the great advice Tom!
That's an awesome way of approaching it! I love it, nice one!
1. Consistency. Not just showing up, but consistently reassigning where you're at, consistently learning new skills, consistently opening your mind.
2. There is no golden protocol. Do what inspires you to show up and be consistent. Do what works and fits into your lifestyle. Just showing up can be the win. Choose exercises that motivate you to just go for it.
3. A long term plan / approach to climbing. Taking a big picture look at your climbing lets the short term bumps not be as big a deal because you know you're still improving towards your goal.
Sounds like you got it 😀
Looks like I'm doing things right! I got a long term goal and checking every 2 weeks if I'm still on the right track. Making sure I'm still adhering to my own values (like staying healthy), and making small adjustments when necessary or deciding I need a deload week. Thanks for the video!
Sounds like it, mate! Stick with it. And good luck on the 7a-8a journey! Sounds like an awesome path your on!
I started climbing because it was fun and after 25 years it's still fun. I'm blessed with a spare bedroom that has been converted to a boulder with a 45 degree overhang (5 meters long and 4 wide) and a traverse wall. Once a month I set 15 or 20 boulders we can break our fingers on and once we do them I change everything. I will be stealing some projects from your wall if it's okay with you 😁
oooo that's a nice big set up! good one. haha steal away
@@TomOHalloranAus 😁
Great video! Your board looks incredible
Thank you. I do like the board 😀
Thank you! Good perspective 🙏
Thank you. Glad it was helpful for you 😀
Just rewatching these board vids to get psych for training
Haha awesome. Psyched to hear you enjoy them. More incoming very soon.
Killer upload! I would love to see a video of one of your spray wall sessions too! It's such a help to see your approach and technique with problems.
Sweet, thanks. I’ll make a vid like that happen!
We got nothing but 95 degree weather and no rain in New England. Can’t go outside.
Ooow yeah! How fun is summer haha
Such a great vid! Love the combo of sharing the wisdom with an actual homewall session overlayed!
Can't wait for more!
Thank you, really looking forward to making more!
Low intensity training is for away from gym workout. Since your tendons only use up the lactic acid once in 10m period, and doesnt recoup its orginal amount until about 6 hours later. The golden standard your talking about. Is an away from gym workout. Like something you do before work, or when you wake up.....
Great one, Tom. Loving the channel!
Thanks mate 😀
Wow very good video with a verry positive message!
Thks.
Thank you! 🙏
@@TomOHalloranAus im happy you realised ur dream by going to the olympics !
Hey tom, great video, Any advice on the mental game at the gym? Specifically when it comes to focus. I feel like I have trouble focusing at the gym, resting enough, and trying hard on fewer quality tries. I often accidentally beat myself up by overtraining and doing monster sessions with tons of junk volume just because climbing is so fun.
Haha I totally feel you on that one. It’s something I want to dig into in the future. Essentially you need to remember your goal and stick to that. Goal is to have high quality attempts, not get distracted by the cool new yellow. Then find a mix of session. This is your volume fun session, this is my high quality low attempts session. Maybe your allowed 15 pull one in the main set of your session and you need to physically mark off each one you have. Then you won’t waste a go 😀
@@TomOHalloranAus It almost feels like fixing this involves fixing a lot more things about your mental state than just what you do at the climbing gym 😅. Cheers mate good idea with the try count per sesh
@@thomasgrady3103 haha yes. as with many other things in life. the true answer and progress lies a few layer deeper than is convenient and comfortable. good luck on the journey
Hi Tom, super greatful for your content! I built a moonboard in the yard a year ago and have just been plugging away.... great fun. I notice you have nice big grip friendly slopers on that wall with only one bolt hole! Id love to know where you got hold of those? Id love some big holds for the wall but only ones I can find have two off set holes which does not work on the moon board! Thanks again, really enjoy your stuff!
Hey Nick, the big holds are Rubber Holds from their ‘the drop’ range. They’re awesome. I really love them
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks Tom! Amazing how you manage to reply to all these comments!
@@nickdanne7270 No sweat :). I'm just psyched you're watching the videos
Hey, what are the dimensions of your home woody?
3m wide. 2.7m board at 45 degrees. About 30cm kick board and 25cm head board
Thanks, appreciate it :)
Sick Vid! Any tips for staying healthy and uninjured while trying to get stronger? Like what's your approach to balancing pushing your limits and recovery? Could be a cool video!
Listen to the body, dont get over eager, fuel your sessions, replenish afterwards, sleep well. I'll be sure to follow up with a video at some point
Damn, now I'm super motivated to go climb. Great video and great approach to climbing and training in general👌
Haha rad! Glad you got psyched😀
Just started climbing (2 months) at 58yo due to watching Magnus and now you. My goal is to lead climb but need to strengthen up and learn some skills. Also looking forward to bouldering. Absolutely loving it! Love your vlogs, encouragement and advice.
Ahhh that’s awesome to hear Kathy. Climbing and the experiences it gives us are so good. You’ve got an exciting journey ahead 😀, enjoy. I’m psyched to hear your enjoying the videos ✌️
is there anything in particular I should keep in mind as i keep going as smn who loves it, is a 6a-b-ish boulderer who has only done it 4 times? (but as I said i love it and will be doing it quite regularly going forward)
Just keep at it. Develop technique before strength. The strength will come naturally as you do more, the technique will not
Was really confused when you started talking about this summer in February, then it dawned on me that you're on the other side of the world :')
correct :)
Been stuck in a hotel for work for the last three weeks. Took a portable hang board with me to attach to the gym’s Lat pull down for pulls and holds. Pretty happy I’ve kept it up tbh, psyched for getting home (where it’s supposed to have stopped raining!) and get on some Grit. Not looking back and realising progress is definitely a mistake people make! If I see what I’ve achieved in the last few years, it really makes me believe that my bigger long term goals are possible… Thanks for the vid, like the format and the information!
That's awesome. I used to do a ton of work away and the portable hangboard saved me. Keep it up and keep moving forward. Make the big dreams happen!
what you said at the end about filling your heart with love and happiness and just going for it really touched me 🥲
It's so true and easy to miss :). There's a direct correlation, for me, between being present and happy in life in general and climbing well. Enjoy the ride :)
My current longterm goal is pretty much the same its always been, and it’s just see how far I can get. I’ve never taken something as important as climbing. It fills my mind when I’m at home, in between schoolwork. So I want to see far just how willing I am to go with it, what I’m willing to learn, and see how hard I’m willing to try to get better. It’s the first time in my life I’ve wanted to commot my whole life to something.
That's awesome! Climbing is such an incredible adventure to have in your life and there's so many different ways to do it. I was totally the same as you, with it consuming my every thought between school work! Keep on having fun and everything will fall into place. Keep it up :)
The second point you were saying was said to me as "The best workout plan is the one you actually do."
Yes 100% 👍
Wow, glad I found your channel. Please more videos in a similiar way. Amazing!
I'm glad you're here!
Love your guidance, awesome advice on training !
Glad you got something out of it 😀
Loved how personal the video was yet informative. Best kinda content. Just started climbing a little over half a year ago. Started late as I’m 19 right now but I really love it and have an athletic backround so I am climbing grades quickly while having an invalueable amount of fun. Best athletic community I’ve ever experienced.
That's awesome to hear! Keep going :)
Thanks for the video Tom. My panel is pretty similar I think.40 ish degrees and a similar height to get a few moves in. You got any tips for setting up the holds? Also do you do power endurance circuits on it or just use it for 4 - 5 move power probs? Thanks.
Nice one. Yeah mine is at 45. I think a few degrees either side of 45 is a great angle. Definitely some good ways of going about things in terms of setting. There’ll be a video coming on that in the future! A good place to start is doing your best to get one of each type of hold in a 300mm x 300mm (or there about) area. Jug, crimp, slope, pinch etc. means there’s always an option for you. Also, lots of ideas for endurance on a small board. That video is also in the works. I’ve definitely got a lot out of endurance on this board
Subscribed!!! So inspirational man!
Gday and welcome aboard!
Great video, all your content is great watched it last night haha. Keen for more of these type of vids as I’ve only been climbing for 1-2 years looking to step up my game
Haha that’s awesome. I’ll do my best to keep it coming! Glad to hear your getting something out of them
Lots of great tips. Love the woodie. Lots of cool holds.
Thanks mate. Yeah like the set up for sure!
Very nice video, so realistic and mature!
Thank mate. Appreciate the kind words 🙏
Hey Tom, I'm 15 and have been bouldering for about 7 months now. I really want to become a top level pro climber and have made a lot of improvement already, however, I see that almost every top climber started before the age of 10 and I don't want to fully commit to pursuing this if I don't have a chance. Is it realistically possible for me to reach a high level at this point?
Yes and yes. 17 is still young, you're still going to get those early adaptations that help out the elites.
Nothing will ever beat hard work, mate. You’ve got it!
Great video. When you say you take 6 weeks off from climbing every year do you mean absolutely nothing climbing related? i.e hangboarding and all types of climbing? How long does it take after the 6 weeks to get back to your level? And how much will things like finger/tendon strength diminish?
It’s usually in a few 1-2 week blocks. I’ll do absolutely no climbing, training in that time. This helps with motivation and gives any little niggles a chance to get better. Finger strength is a minimal loss and comes back to awesome very quickly. I would not stress about it. You’ll be doing more damage by not resting than you’ll gain from keeping to pusj
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks for the reply.
Amazing video as always :D
thanks mate!
yes man very good tips!!
Glad you like them!
Great video! What shoes do you wear by the way? Looking for a great outdoor pair
I love the Tenayas. Wearing the Mastia in the video. But also find the Oasi, Iati and Ra on my foot fairly regularly. For me, the Oasi is the one shoe quiver
@@TomOHalloranAus Thank you, really appreciate it :)
Love it!
Thank you!
Nice one!
Thanks!
hardest v9 :)
Haha totally! Complete sandbag!
Loving the videos dude, last few months have been hard to keep consistency up and I feel like I've taken a step backwards because of it but long term perspective is important and gives me the boost to get back into it, just coz im worse than last month there is no reason I can't be better next one
100% Brian! That’s the way to look at it for sure. Good luck finding the groove again!
wow, this was substantially great! you are one of the few people on this platform who really talks about a long rest period after the hard competition phase of your periodized training. Great Stuff!
Haha thanks Mitchell, I appreciate it. Yes, i think rest is not spoken about nearly as much as it needs to be.
Great advice not over complicating training 👏 keep it fun and consistent love it
So easy to do haha. Psyched you liked it
@@TomOHalloranAus haha yeah it's great. Only trouble I have with moon board is I always stop after it's too late 😂😂 ruin all my skin every time 😂👏 but I love it haha great tips dude 👊
Haha classic moonboard!
You have a good dad 🙏 thanks for the video
Thank you! 🙏