You can avoid the epoxy stains (can see them all at 4:15) by painting on a coat of clear epoxy prior to filling any small spots, or painting on sanding sealer prior to filling any small holes. When you work through the grits, you'll remove the thin layer, leaving the epoxy only in the cracks and not stained blobs. Spalted maple is tricky to work with
Spalting is the black lines you see in the wood, which is actually a fungus that has started to grow in the wood. The epoxy and finish stabilizes this though!
Yes! I poured it too thick and didn't have an Air Conditioned space. If you could keep the room around 20C and have some big fans while drying it would have been fine. On the other hand it gave the epoxy so much swirling in the end, which I really like!
@@gustanto1981 you shouldn't have any problems then, as long as the epoxy is rated to 5cm, which it should be if it's any type of "deep pour epoxy". Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@gustanto1981 It should have a max depth and temperature range you should stay in, so if you do that you'll be fine! No problem, glad to help and thanks for watching the video
Awesome work 👍 After the pour did you have to keep stirring the pigment every X hours so it didn’t settle to the bottom? Also, how did you determine the correct pigment to epoxy ratio?
Nope the pigment won't settle if you mix it in well to begin with (4-6mins). You can stir the epoxy in the mold to add more swirls, which I didn't do. Just add the pigment slowly and stir until it is dark enough. I wanted it to be opaque so I just added a lot! Thanks for the comment, let me know if you need me to clarify anything else
Take a couple measurements along a crack and average that number. Then multiply it by the height and length of the crack and that should be fairly accurate.
You can avoid the epoxy stains (can see them all at 4:15) by painting on a coat of clear epoxy prior to filling any small spots, or painting on sanding sealer prior to filling any small holes. When you work through the grits, you'll remove the thin layer, leaving the epoxy only in the cracks and not stained blobs. Spalted maple is tricky to work with
Beautiful job
very very nice
What a great looking table! Lucky owner for whom it was made.
Wow this turned out so well!! Nice job man and great video.
Thanks so much!
Great looking table
Gorgeous - a work of art!
That looks dope! Love the look of that maple.
Thanks JB! I'm really happy with it
thats ace man love it
Amazing work. I want to build that same table.
Thanks!
Looks awesome 👍
Thanks!
Nice table - but if you stick to hdpe boards or tack tape your boards far less problem of resin adhesion.
amazing
God bless you
Mann... Thats a lot of hardwork...👍👍 Amazing
Hi awesome job..! can you tell me what "spalded" is ?? 😅 Its has got something with the colour??
Spalting is the black lines you see in the wood, which is actually a fungus that has started to grow in the wood. The epoxy and finish stabilizes this though!
@@AlexKatWoodworking finally i know.. ! Thank you very much for your time
Thanks so much for the comment and watching my videos 😁
is that cracks caused by over heating temperature while curing?
Yes! I poured it too thick and didn't have an Air Conditioned space. If you could keep the room around 20C and have some big fans while drying it would have been fine. On the other hand it gave the epoxy so much swirling in the end, which I really like!
@@AlexKatWoodworking thanks for sharing. i am going to try 5 cm thick pour . i will do it in air conditioner room around 18°© and put a fan to throw the heat from the epoxy surface. do you think it helps a lot to manage the over heating? last time i only poured 1.5 cm without AC and Fans.. the room temperature was around 28°© and the peak epoxy reach 70°© at 15 mm thick.
@@gustanto1981 you shouldn't have any problems then, as long as the epoxy is rated to 5cm, which it should be if it's any type of "deep pour epoxy". Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@AlexKatWoodworking its designed for deep but how deep we can't make sure. that's why i want to control the temperature. thanks for this sharing
@@gustanto1981 It should have a max depth and temperature range you should stay in, so if you do that you'll be fine! No problem, glad to help and thanks for watching the video
Your videos are sick! Keep it up I'm curious what else you'll make
Thank you so much Pat! I have so many projects to come, stay tuned!
Awesome work 👍 After the pour did you have to keep stirring the pigment every X hours so it didn’t settle to the bottom? Also, how did you determine the correct pigment to epoxy ratio?
Nope the pigment won't settle if you mix it in well to begin with (4-6mins). You can stir the epoxy in the mold to add more swirls, which I didn't do. Just add the pigment slowly and stir until it is dark enough. I wanted it to be opaque so I just added a lot! Thanks for the comment, let me know if you need me to clarify anything else
@@AlexKatWoodworking awesome thanks!
the only thing i would like to have seen is the cracks in the end !
How do l know how much resin to put into anything?
Take a couple measurements along a crack and average that number. Then multiply it by the height and length of the crack and that should be fairly accurate.
wood name ?
Walnut
@@AlexKatWoodworking Thanks bro, good job :D
@ZeCio thanks!
@@AlexKatWoodworking that's spalted maple.. not walnut