I have been watching your channel for a while. GREAT to see someone with the talent and experience to teach the finer points of our trade. I am 72 and still doing custom machine design. We enjoy your videos, you are definitely helping a lot of people new and sometimes experienced in the trade. Thank you so much: George
65 years ago, we spent the first 2 weeks in heavy mechanics class making a drill bit sharpening gauge and using it grinding and regrinding 1/2" and larger drill bits into stubbys. Our instructor wouldn't let us touch our project engines until we could sharpen our bit and drill through 1/2" plate with it. I will always be grateful to him for that, still sharpen my bits by hand and even occasionally get a 3/16" bit to cut a decent hole, just to prove I can still do it. Anyone who says its not worth the trouble, just needs to spend a week working on developing the technique. Retired from the construction industry now and getting back to reducing large stock into small chips and loving it. Your videos are great, your teaching style is exceptional and your content is always on target. Thank You. Please keep them coming. PS. It looked like the grain of that wood was giving you a bit of trouble, High speed steel is actually easier to grind, no contrary grain. ; )
Joe, I watched an unrelated video a while ago, I think it was one of Dale's and he commented "come on guys, youre a machinist, think outside the box". Now I have watched heaps of drill sharpening videos but not once have I seen a wooden dowel (nice big one too) used so many thanks for thinking and demonstrating outside the box. Let's face it, big drills are not cheap either, well at least not here in AUS so you need to do it right as aften as you can. Another really practical video. Cheers, Gordon, AUS
Now, that was worth while. My sharpening jobs have always been hit 'n miss, but i'll watch this video a few more times so it sinks in, and i'll be off and accurizing. Thanks, Joe
As usual great stuff! Simple to follow, explained very well, and followed by very clear and precise demonstration. Having spent over 30 years in the classroom/shop instructing in welding at the college level, I can say you handle this instruction like an Associate Professor!
Joe you did much more than OK. I truly appreciate your sharing the tips and techniques in your videos. It's easy to tell that you really know what you are doing. I've worked in many different trades and I can tell a pro from a poser in minutes. You are most definitely in the pro category. Keep up making the videos. I learn something from almost every one of them.
Joe, you're not only a wealth of great experience and information - you also have a natural talent for teaching. I've been using a Drill Doctor for sharpening my smaller drills (up to about 1/2") with good success. Splitting points on small sizes (like #40) is a challenge, and large sizes take some time but can be done with very good precision. Thanks again...
Once again Joe my friend you deliver in such a simplified way but still pass over the facts as needed. The guys working for you (especially apprentices) must find it a pleasure to pick up this kind of tutorship. Thankyou. PS if you ever feel the need to set up shop in the NorthEast of England I will come work for free!
This is by far, the best visual presentation on drill tip geometry to see whats going on. Thank you for that. This definitely helps my drills to not look like they were raped by the grinding wheel^^ greetings from Austria
Thank you! There are at least 20+ videos addressing this topic. Yours is the only one that uses a nice big model to illustrate these ideas clearly. Cutting angle, relief angle, split point, etc. very helpful to see each idea along the way.
Well Done. Thank you. This process is easily over-complicated by those who lack your ability to simplify. But, it is still a head-full. After watching your videos I often go into the shop with notes...and realize. Wait a moment! This is NOT slam dunk. This is complicated, even in simple form. But with practice, it works. Thanks again.
Thank You Joe, the first time I understand what to do when sharpening a drill bit. Great teaching aid that you came up with. It is awesome that you are sharing your skill with all of us. Keep up the good work everyone can learn.
I have finally dared to try to sharpen my drills thanks to your video! I've seen several guys talk about drill sharpening but your tips just made so much sense! Thank you and greetings from Poland :)
Hey Joe ... fellow old guy toolmaker, I love the practical ways you show those little tricks that only come with decades of practice ! You my friend are Yoda.... the best part is no matter how long one is machining, there's always something new to learn. A big thank-you for doing this service. Love the show , metal Joe !
Good video Joe. Re the 118 degree versus 135 degree point issue, the more obtuse the angle the shorter the cutting lip, so you're peeling off a less wide chip with a 135 degree tip, which reduces the machining power needed and makes it easier going in harder metals. A 135 degree tip has cutting lips about 8% longer than a 180 degree tip like a bullet point, and a 118 degree tip has cutting lips about another 8% longer than 135 degree. The way it was explained to me was that 118 degrees was a compromise (for plain chisel point drills) that balanced lip length efficiency with the ease of initial penetration and avoiding wandering when starting a hole. Sharper point angles tend to initially penetrate more easily and wander less, but are less efficient once you're in the hole due to longer cutting lips that are cutting a wider chip. Now that's for plain chisel point tips, but once you go for a split point tip then that kinds solves the problems of wandering and initial penetration, so a more obtuse angle with greater cutting efficiency can be used. Hence why 135 degree is so common on split points but not so much on plain sharpened drills.
As always, I am learning so much with your channel. I am truly grateful for you taking the time to put these together and share them with the world. I've been a sheet metal mechanic for 15 years now. For the last 3 or 4 I've really gotten into machining. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get any machines for my home shop yet, but hopefully one day. The crazy thing that happened though, was that after a few years of watching you (and several other awesome RUclipsrs), I have been able to to really notice a crossover of a lot of the machining tips into my sheet metal shop. Its to the point where if there is an odd problem, of a one off issue, everyone comes to me now. What started as making fun of and busting chops about the tight tolerances I started holding with my new "toy tools" (after I started accumulating a ton of precision tools/gages), turned me into the go-to guy. It has opened new doors in my career. I couldn't have done it without you or your other RUclips colleagues. From the bottom of my heart, Thank You.
That was perfect. I have the Lisle 91000 and the Darex sharpener and it is always a hit and miss. Your video just helped me realize my mistakes. Thanks
FINALLY a video that explains the basics of drill bits without all the yadda yadda yadda. Thanks Joe for clearly explaining the three questions I have on drill bits. The 2-1/2" dowel helped a lot!
I just discovered your channel and I like your style. It is similar to Tom's technique which I also like very much. Your channel is a goldmine for younger machinists. Thanks !
This is a great tutorial! I've been freehand sharpening drill bits over 50 years but no one ever told me how; just sort of figured it out. I always felt that the relief I put on the trailing edge was cheating. Glad to learn that it's not. But I do overdo it sometimes. And I never heard of or saw a web relief before. Maybe I can try it on one of my larger bits, like a quarter inch (!) Your 2" drill blank is a brilliant teaching tool. Thanks a lot. And please keep up the good work!
Hi Joe from South Africa. The best explanation of drill bit geometry I’ve seen after many hours searching the net - well done and thank you. Understanding the theory makes doing the job more precise and easier! Seems all expert artisans are from Austin - First SRV, and now Joe Pieczynski.
Joe, gotta say that was pretty frickin' cool! I like 135 and 140 degree drill points for tougher materials like stainless and tool steels, and 118 degree for softer stuff. The larger included angle reduces the chip width, and thus the torque required to twist it. A split point is almost always a good idea, especially if you have flood or thru-tool coolant. I have had troubles with them though when drilling in high nickel-chrome steels like 440. The heat generated at the drill point will cook the thinned area. Ditto for carbide drills. If you're gonna split 'em, keep in mind that carbide is brittle and very easy to fracture. The thinned web is very fragile. I almost always spot (not center) drill before drilling because no matter the material, it makes life easier for the drill. You don't like my formulae, but I'm hard-headed and some viewers may benefit- Feedrate for a drill=.013 X diameter in inches per revolution. Now, if you remember that you said 'who gives a shit' about the formula for thread minor calculation, you'll see that '13' pops up again and again in almost everything we do. A customer once asked me to make a template for his wood lathe so he could rough turn pool cues. It turns out that the taper on a pool cue is 1-in-13, or .666 degrees. Interesting, at least to me.
Rob Bardin with your drill feed formula. I ran some drill sizes I use the most on the CNC mill. And your formula comes pretty close to my "go to" starting point for those drills in soft to mild materials. But, I have found that occasionally changes of speeds and feeds are needed in repeat jobs. My guess is slight differences in material.
A long time ago my dad showed me the same technique for sharpening drill bits (only he used a drill bit lol). I think he learned it in the USAF but I don't know and I can't ask him. I just found your channel and hit subscribe before I finished the first video. Austin is just up the road from me (Weimar / Schulenburg area). It's good to see someone local (in Texas, 90 miles is local) doing great videos
Yeah... I feel the same way. I'm very fortunate to have been able to work for him after high school. He went through some really bad times (chemo / radiation for Hodgkins disease) when I was in school and I had no idea really. I found out how bad it was later. We worked together for 10 years (77-87). Like him, I work in the oil and gas industry and over the years I've been in so many gas plants that he helped build. I remember the names from all of the schools that we went to :o) A few months ago I was in Baton Rouge and I saw a run of tubing in a tray and I instantly knew it was his work. I knew he had worked there but the tubing reminded me. He had a way of breaking out tubing unions that was distinctive and it made them easy to access for maintenance. I'll never forget how to do that. He made sure of that lol
Joe, you have some great content that I wish was around when I started out. When I was in trade school, I made a 118° and 135° gauge to ensure I was getting the correct included angle. Took maybe 10 mins. on the mill and has been very useful over the years. I usually sharpen on a pedestal grinder that is kept dressed for drill bits only. I split the tip on the corner of the wheel. Takes a couple of seconds that way. Also made a spring loaded tap guide that has been indispensable for centering taps.
Love your videos! Would love to see you do this on a morse taper larger steel drill and how you would do the point splitting! You're a great teacher even if you can't claim to be on RUclips!
When I sharpen large drills on the belt sander, I always start sanding the clearance end first down to the cutting edge, that way I am guaranteed clearance! Great job Joe!!!
Alright your right on track with my issues . I’ve been struggling with a 2 1/4” drill by hand we did everything we were taught , ended up coloring the end with sharpie then touching it off and looking for the shiny parts . We are drilling 4140 heat treated . But still have one side cutting I’m going to follow your video and try it again. Thanks Joe !
Thanks Joe. I am not that far out, then. For brass I use to change the relief angle along the cutting edge only. It makes the drill less agressive so that it takes leas material per revolution.
Super useful and interesting, I am not great at hand sharpening drills but this helped, especially the way to measure to know how much to adjust. Thank you!
Learned how to sharpen drill bits in freshman shop - had to, to pass the class! 5 credits in high school metalshop and a couple credits of physics were the best courses I took in school. Served me well over the last 45 years and gave me a serious edge. Couple that with becoming a journeyman pipe and structural welder and I've been employed all over the world. I've NEVER been anyplace I haven't had to sharpen drill bits! Have a bunch of jigs for my lathe bits and a Darex for my mill cutters. Had a lapse in sanity back in the 90's and got a 'Drill Doctor'. Spent an evening going thru my 'need sharpening' drill bit box. Could, maybe, drill brass with them after. Only saving grace was the split point feature. Still had to do them by hand, sigh.
Great explanatios and good use of oversized "blank". I however have never been a fan of of rotate-lift grinding, as it loses your original index position easily and is harder to learn correctly. Flat facet grinding is easy to show to anyone, you can easily control the angles and get it perfect the first time.
I will agree with you on this one, but when someone puts that secondary relief on, they usually give too much. It is a good place to start if you've never done it.
Joe, when I started watching this one I thought, "what is this BS?". But as usual, a brilliant beautifully explained exposition. The only thing I missed was seeing the wooden bit drilling some styrofoam.
Hi Joe, The older we get and the smaller the drill bit get, going towards "Mission Impossible" lol Nicely illustrated and many companies make some gauges for that purpose, they don't have to be made with the swivel scale... Cheers, Pierre
Brilliaant teaching device. Thanks, made a lot of things clearer. BTW I have one of those General scales and I bought it at Lowe's about 5 years ago. I must check to see if they still offer it.
Joe!?...yet again You have condensed this subject into a glorious, comprehensive masterpiece...... the number of times I have read pages and diagrams relating to the explanation of split point geometry...and could I hell be sure what was trying to be portrayed.....your presentation has simplified this in one viewing...and even as a lesser being; I could now explain it to someone else with 100% confidence and answer questions on it...lol..............now I'm gonna read the books again and criticize the test and diagams just for fun......You are a true hero my friend Tanks again :-
Goodday Joe. Good luck from South Africa. I follow your videos for quite a while now and assure you, your advise and way of explaining, sometimes difficult techincal explanations is of the utmost best. I have learned a lot, to say the least. Look forword learing a lot of your expierience. Tx.
Good video Joe. You always keep it going and I never fall asleep. I had a job a while back where I had to drill about 50 holes that were 1" diameter in some heavy I beam. I did it on a Bridgeport with a annular cutter. I think it was a Hogen brand. Have you used this type of cutter for large holes? It took very little time, with half the horsepower, and less chips.Those cutters are the way to go for large holes! Again, love your videos and keep your chips blue!
Drill into M42 HSS on your tail stock with a 1.5" drill bit and you'll feel the difference in the cutting angle of the drill. It's tough going. I also sharpen my 1.5" drills by hand on a 3/4" width grinding wheel. The skill is in keeping the angle true while moving left to right across the wheel. Great vid.
the 135 degree has about 40% less cut length for hard matieriels I've read some interesting articles on the web theres one that describes a drill point that ford motor used to drill like 30,000 holes I've read a lot about drill points and still picked up a few pointers (ha ha) so good stuff joe
Your grinding the edge when using on brass also works, for us that do not have a drill press handy and have to use hand drills to enlarge drilled holes by just a bit. i.e making a 1" hole out of a 7/8' hole.
joe i am a carpenter by trade and have been watching your videos on machining and between yourself and mr pete222 i feel like i am in trade school your content delivery and presentations are awesome. i am interested in starting a home shop and wanted to ask you what you though about the pm-1228-vf-lb lathe. also never feel guilty about asking for help for a friend it is what makes you a good person. my prayers go out to mr dicarlo and his family and have also have been touched by that awful disease. Larry
Great to see 4+years later you are still teach us all. DAREx? Was looking for creators this morning on older D-Grinders, (Gold paint, model No. and serials on tag to dinged up to read, but got one in a tool buy out, and have not found a pdf instruction or manual on ebay. Any help finding a sourse would be much appreciative,,,Bear. 11-13-21.
Joe, for a better choice of drill bit stock try mesquite. Your pine dowel had a hardness of 420, while mesquite or pecan is in the 2200 hardness range. Janka hardness measures the perpendicular denting on wood. I enjoyed your drill video.
I've been hand sharpening drills for many years. They cut well and I thought I was doing a great job when using them in the drill press.... but when I mounted that drill bit in the tailstock of my lathe it was obvious it was only cutting on one side. Good wakeup call, and I think a great way to check that you have ground the bit properly.
I have been watching your channel for a while. GREAT to see someone with the talent and experience to teach the finer points of our trade. I am 72 and still doing custom machine design. We enjoy your videos, you are definitely helping a lot of people new and sometimes experienced in the trade. Thank you so much: George
Glad to help. Thanks for your support.
65 years ago, we spent the first 2 weeks in heavy mechanics class making a drill bit sharpening gauge and using it grinding and regrinding 1/2" and larger drill bits into stubbys. Our instructor wouldn't let us touch our project engines until we could sharpen our bit and drill through 1/2" plate with it. I will always be grateful to him for that, still sharpen my bits by hand and even occasionally get a 3/16" bit to cut a decent hole, just to prove I can still do it. Anyone who says its not worth the trouble, just needs to spend a week working on developing the technique. Retired from the construction industry now and getting back to reducing large stock into small chips and loving it.
Your videos are great, your teaching style is exceptional and your content is always on target. Thank You.
Please keep them coming.
PS. It looked like the grain of that wood was giving you a bit of trouble, High speed steel is actually easier to grind, no contrary grain. ; )
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your chips.
That Joe was a brilliant way to show the geometry factors - particularly the split point grind.
Thanks. I thought big would be good on this one.
Thank you sir. I was schooled today. Work just got easier. I'm a visual learner. This is gold
Excellent!
Joe, I watched an unrelated video a while ago, I think it was one of Dale's and he commented "come on guys, youre a machinist, think outside the box". Now I have watched heaps of drill sharpening videos but not once have I seen a wooden dowel (nice big one too) used so many thanks for thinking and demonstrating outside the box. Let's face it, big drills are not cheap either, well at least not here in AUS so you need to do it right as aften as you can. Another really practical video. Cheers, Gordon, AUS
Now, that was worth while. My sharpening jobs have always been hit 'n miss, but i'll watch this video a few more times so it sinks in, and i'll be off and accurizing.
Thanks, Joe
As usual great stuff! Simple to follow, explained very well, and followed by very clear and precise demonstration. Having spent over 30 years in the classroom/shop instructing in welding at the college level, I can say you handle this instruction like an Associate Professor!
Thanks for that. I enjoy teaching.
Excellent Joe! I've always wondered about split point drills and now know how to grind one. Your videos have enabled me to work smarter... not harder.
Bingo. Thats a win for both of us.
Joe you did much more than OK. I truly appreciate your sharing the tips and techniques in your videos. It's easy to tell that you really know what you are doing. I've worked in many different trades and I can tell a pro from a poser in minutes. You are most definitely in the pro category. Keep up making the videos. I learn something from almost every one of them.
Thank you very much for that. Glad to help
That was easy the best drill sharpening video on the internet. Thanks Joe.
Thanks
Best explanation I have ever seen on sharpening drills. You clarified a lot of things for me.
Thank you.
Joe, you're not only a wealth of great experience and information - you also have a natural talent for teaching. I've been using a Drill Doctor for sharpening my smaller drills (up to about 1/2") with good success. Splitting points on small sizes (like #40) is a challenge, and large sizes take some time but can be done with very good precision. Thanks again...
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated.
I have got an entire drawer of dull bits that will have a real chance of a second life thanks to you!!
Once again Joe my friend you deliver in such a simplified way but still pass over the facts as needed. The guys working for you (especially apprentices) must find it a pleasure to pick up this kind of tutorship. Thankyou. PS if you ever feel the need to set up shop in the NorthEast of England I will come work for free!
Thank you Joe, for taking the the time to shoot, edit, upload & share this video. GREAT DEMONSTRATION.
The best demo on drill sharpening I have seen , Thank you
This is by far, the best visual presentation on drill tip geometry to see whats going on. Thank you for that.
This definitely helps my drills to not look like they were raped by the grinding wheel^^
greetings from Austria
I believe I have met that grinding wheel. Its unforgiving. I hope this helped simplify things for you.
I always thought I was pretty good at general machine skills but your vids continually teach me small nuances I never thought of! thanks
Thank you! There are at least 20+ videos addressing this topic. Yours is the only one that uses a nice big model to illustrate these ideas clearly. Cutting angle, relief angle, split point, etc. very helpful to see each idea along the way.
Glad it was helpful!
Well Done. Thank you. This process is easily over-complicated by those who lack your ability to simplify. But, it is still a head-full. After watching your videos I often go into the shop with notes...and realize. Wait a moment! This is NOT slam dunk. This is complicated, even in simple form. But with practice, it works. Thanks again.
Glad it helped!
Thank You Joe, the first time I understand what to do when sharpening a drill bit. Great teaching aid that you came up with. It is awesome that you are sharing your skill with all of us. Keep up the good work everyone can learn.
I have finally dared to try to sharpen my drills thanks to your video! I've seen several guys talk about drill sharpening but your tips just made so much sense! Thank you and greetings from Poland :)
Thanks for the comment. My great grand parents were from Poland.
Thanks for another great vid Joe. You're a fantastic teacher, so easy to understand.
Thank you very much.
Hey Joe ... fellow old guy toolmaker, I love the practical ways you show those little tricks that only come with decades of practice ! You my friend are Yoda.... the best part is no matter how long one is machining, there's always something new to learn. A big thank-you for doing this service. Love the show , metal Joe !
Good video Joe. Re the 118 degree versus 135 degree point issue, the more obtuse the angle the shorter the cutting lip, so you're peeling off a less wide chip with a 135 degree tip, which reduces the machining power needed and makes it easier going in harder metals. A 135 degree tip has cutting lips about 8% longer than a 180 degree tip like a bullet point, and a 118 degree tip has cutting lips about another 8% longer than 135 degree. The way it was explained to me was that 118 degrees was a compromise (for plain chisel point drills) that balanced lip length efficiency with the ease of initial penetration and avoiding wandering when starting a hole. Sharper point angles tend to initially penetrate more easily and wander less, but are less efficient once you're in the hole due to longer cutting lips that are cutting a wider chip. Now that's for plain chisel point tips, but once you go for a split point tip then that kinds solves the problems of wandering and initial penetration, so a more obtuse angle with greater cutting efficiency can be used. Hence why 135 degree is so common on split points but not so much on plain sharpened drills.
Good input about drill tip angles and how that changes things.
Best drill lecture on the web.
Thank you.
You just took all the mystery out of drill sharpening!!! Thanks Joe!
Great lesson/explanation....funny, every time in your videos when you use a Tri-square you show great tips on it's many uses
Hey Chuck, thanks for watching.
As always, I am learning so much with your channel. I am truly grateful for you taking the time to put these together and share them with the world. I've been a sheet metal mechanic for 15 years now. For the last 3 or 4 I've really gotten into machining. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get any machines for my home shop yet, but hopefully one day. The crazy thing that happened though, was that after a few years of watching you (and several other awesome RUclipsrs), I have been able to to really notice a crossover of a lot of the machining tips into my sheet metal shop. Its to the point where if there is an odd problem, of a one off issue, everyone comes to me now. What started as making fun of and busting chops about the tight tolerances I started holding with my new "toy tools" (after I started accumulating a ton of precision tools/gages), turned me into the go-to guy. It has opened new doors in my career. I couldn't have done it without you or your other RUclips colleagues. From the bottom of my heart, Thank You.
Outstanding. Its time to hit them up for a raise.
Yet another excellent, informative, well presented, useful video! I both enjoyed and learned. Thanks for sharing.
That was perfect. I have the Lisle 91000 and the Darex sharpener and it is always a hit and miss. Your video just helped me realize my mistakes. Thanks
Awesome. Its nice to know what to look for.
Great drill grinding tutorial. Thanks for taking the time.
FINALLY a video that explains the basics of drill bits without all the yadda yadda yadda. Thanks Joe for clearly explaining the three questions I have on drill bits. The 2-1/2" dowel helped a lot!
Glad you liked it! Its really not that hard once you understand what you are looking for.
@@joepie221 That is exactly correct.
I immediately went to flea bay and bought the gauge, Thank you again Glenn
Cool. Its a good little jig to have.
I just discovered your channel and I like your style. It is similar to Tom's technique which I also like very much. Your channel is a goldmine for younger machinists. Thanks !
This is a great tutorial! I've been freehand sharpening drill bits over 50 years but no one ever told me how; just sort of figured it out. I always felt that the relief I put on the trailing edge was cheating. Glad to learn that it's not. But I do overdo it sometimes. And I never heard of or saw a web relief before. Maybe I can try it on one of my larger bits, like a quarter inch (!) Your 2" drill blank is a brilliant teaching tool. Thanks a lot. And please keep up the good work!
I thought it would be a good idea to show what to look for instead of telling you how to do it. try that web relief. It really does help.
Thanks Joe, nice and clear. One of the best and to the point explanations and practical advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Joe from South Africa. The best explanation of drill bit geometry I’ve seen after many hours searching the net - well done and thank you. Understanding the theory makes doing the job more precise and easier! Seems all expert artisans are from Austin - First SRV, and now Joe Pieczynski.
Thanks for the comment.
Joe, gotta say that was pretty frickin' cool! I like 135 and 140 degree drill points for tougher materials like stainless and tool steels, and 118 degree for softer stuff. The larger included angle reduces the chip width, and thus the torque required to twist it. A split point is almost always a good idea, especially if you have flood or thru-tool coolant. I have had troubles with them though when drilling in high nickel-chrome steels like 440. The heat generated at the drill point will cook the thinned area. Ditto for carbide drills. If you're gonna split 'em, keep in mind that carbide is brittle and very easy to fracture. The thinned web is very fragile. I almost always spot (not center) drill before drilling because no matter the material, it makes life easier for the drill. You don't like my formulae, but I'm hard-headed and some viewers may benefit- Feedrate for a drill=.013 X diameter in inches per revolution. Now, if you remember that you said 'who gives a shit' about the formula for thread minor calculation, you'll see that '13' pops up again and again in almost everything we do. A customer once asked me to make a template for his wood lathe so he could rough turn pool cues. It turns out that the taper on a pool cue is 1-in-13, or .666 degrees. Interesting, at least to me.
I like the drill feed rate suggestion. I'll have to take a harder look at that and try it out.
Rob Bardin with your drill feed formula. I ran some drill sizes I use the most on the CNC mill. And your formula comes pretty close to my "go to" starting point for those drills in soft to mild materials. But, I have found that occasionally changes of speeds and feeds are needed in repeat jobs. My guess is slight differences in material.
great vid. the large wooden mockup is a great visual
Thanks. It doesn't have to be scary after you understand the basics.
Second that. Very clear.
A long time ago my dad showed me the same technique for sharpening drill bits (only he used a drill bit lol). I think he learned it in the USAF but I don't know and I can't ask him. I just found your channel and hit subscribe before I finished the first video. Austin is just up the road from me (Weimar / Schulenburg area). It's good to see someone local (in Texas, 90 miles is local) doing great videos
Thanks for the comment and subscribing. My Father is gone as well. I miss him and his knowledge everyday.
Yeah... I feel the same way. I'm very fortunate to have been able to work for him after high school. He went through some really bad times (chemo / radiation for Hodgkins disease) when I was in school and I had no idea really. I found out how bad it was later. We worked together for 10 years (77-87). Like him, I work in the oil and gas industry and over the years I've been in so many gas plants that he helped build. I remember the names from all of the schools that we went to :o) A few months ago I was in Baton Rouge and I saw a run of tubing in a tray and I instantly knew it was his work. I knew he had worked there but the tubing reminded me. He had a way of breaking out tubing unions that was distinctive and it made them easy to access for maintenance. I'll never forget how to do that. He made sure of that lol
Joe, you have some great content that I wish was around when I started out. When I was in trade school, I made a 118° and 135° gauge to ensure I was getting the correct included angle. Took maybe 10 mins. on the mill and has been very useful over the years. I usually sharpen on a pedestal grinder that is kept dressed for drill bits only. I split the tip on the corner of the wheel. Takes a couple of seconds that way. Also made a spring loaded tap guide that has been indispensable for centering taps.
Love your videos! Would love to see you do this on a morse taper larger steel drill and how you would do the point splitting! You're a great teacher even if you can't claim to be on RUclips!
I'd do it on a belt sander and split the point exactly the same way I did to the wood. Air grinder with a cutoff wheel. Done it a hundred times.
When I sharpen large drills on the belt sander, I always start sanding the clearance end first down to the cutting edge, that way I am guaranteed clearance! Great job Joe!!!
Joe π, I watched this video and then went to Amazon. Found the general drill gauge for $10.15! It's on it's way, thanx!
Alright your right on track with my issues . I’ve been struggling with a 2 1/4” drill by hand we did everything we were taught , ended up coloring the end with sharpie then touching it off and looking for the shiny parts . We are drilling 4140 heat treated . But still have one side cutting I’m going to follow your video and try it again. Thanks Joe !
Let me know how you finally did.
Thanks Joe! I can finally visualize what needs to happen when I sharpen my drills!
Thanks Joe. I am not that far out, then. For brass I use to change the relief angle along the cutting edge only. It makes the drill less agressive so that it takes leas material per revolution.
Super useful and interesting, I am not great at hand sharpening drills but this helped, especially the way to measure to know how much to adjust. Thank you!
Its all about symmetry. Just keep the angles reasonable and the drill should cut fine.
Learned how to sharpen drill bits in freshman shop - had to, to pass the class! 5 credits in high school metalshop and a couple credits of physics were the best courses I took in school. Served me well over the last 45 years and gave me a serious edge. Couple that with becoming a journeyman pipe and structural welder and I've been employed all over the world. I've NEVER been anyplace I haven't had to sharpen drill bits! Have a bunch of jigs for my lathe bits and a Darex for my mill cutters. Had a lapse in sanity back in the 90's and got a 'Drill Doctor'. Spent an evening going thru my 'need sharpening' drill bit box. Could, maybe, drill brass with them after. Only saving grace was the split point feature. Still had to do them by hand, sigh.
A very nice simplified explanation especialy the split point part
I really appreciate your training. Thank you Joe.
Great teaching aid. Nice job Joe.
Thanks
Great explanatios and good use of oversized "blank".
I however have never been a fan of of rotate-lift grinding, as it loses your original index position easily and is harder to learn correctly. Flat facet grinding is easy to show to anyone, you can easily control the angles and get it perfect the first time.
I will agree with you on this one, but when someone puts that secondary relief on, they usually give too much. It is a good place to start if you've never done it.
Great idea for illustration. Nice production.
another great, no nonsense video. thank you.
Nice Joe never tried using a square makes sense thanks
Everybody has one!
Das sllerbeste Erklärvideo auf RUclips !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Danke !!! ❤❤
Joe, when I started watching this one I thought, "what is this BS?". But as usual, a brilliant beautifully explained exposition. The only thing I missed was seeing the wooden bit drilling some styrofoam.
John V Exactly - We really want to see you drill that 2" hole in Styrofoam, please!
I'll have to relieve the shank first so I can hold it. I have to try it!
The wood post was a nice prop. Thanks for the video.
No problem 👍
Hi Joe,
The older we get and the smaller the drill bit get, going towards "Mission Impossible" lol
Nicely illustrated and many companies make some gauges for that purpose, they don't have to be made with the swivel scale...
Cheers, Pierre
Hi Pierre. The computer killed my eyes. far away...no problem. 10" away....where's my glasses.
Joe, you are pure gold! Thanks!
Brilliaant teaching device. Thanks, made a lot of things clearer. BTW I have one of those General scales and I bought it at Lowe's about 5 years ago. I must check to see if they still offer it.
Good point. They do sell General items.
Great idea on the illustration, lJoe!
Good job Joe! All good information. Thank you.
Definitely the most succint video i've seen on the subject.
Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice to see in large form I never thought about doing the web with my dremal. I use the edge of the stone on the bench grinder, dremal from now on.👍👍👍
Joe, thanks for your channel videos. They are put to good use on my end here in Missouri City, Tx.
glad to help. thanks for tuning in.
Thanks for that great explanation! I've always been a little unclear as to how to go about sharpening a drill bit until now. 👍
Just paused at the 37-th second of video:-) I do as instructed: best wishes from Australia Joe,.. (and continuing watching).
excelente video Joe, con ese tamaño es fácil ver la técnica...sigo aprendiendo, gracias!!
Gracias, pensé que sería más fácil de entender si lo hice en un espacio en blanco grande. Gracias por ver
Excellent illustration! Very educational.
I hope it helped.
Another WONDERFUL class ......
Thank you
Joe!?...yet again You have condensed this subject into a glorious, comprehensive masterpiece...... the number of times I have read pages and diagrams relating to the explanation of split point geometry...and could I hell be sure what was trying to be portrayed.....your presentation has simplified this in one viewing...and even as a lesser being; I could now explain it to someone else with 100% confidence and answer questions on it...lol..............now I'm gonna read the books again and criticize the test and diagams just for fun......You are a true hero my friend Tanks again :-
Outstanding. Thanks for the comment.
Another GOOD ONE, Joe. Thanks!
Outstanding training video...! Thanks so much for taking the time...
Thank you.
Goodday Joe. Good luck from South Africa. I follow your videos for quite a while now and assure you, your advise and way of explaining, sometimes difficult techincal explanations is of the utmost best. I have learned a lot, to say the least. Look forword learing a lot of your expierience. Tx.
Its good to hear from places I reach. Thanks.
Nice explanation of the verification of symmetry, Thanks!
Joe, thanx a lot for this informative video on drill sharpening. Best wishes for you.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks Joe, very helpful video.
Good video Joe. You always keep it going and I never fall asleep. I had a job a while back where I had to drill about 50 holes that were 1" diameter in some heavy I beam. I did it on a Bridgeport with a annular cutter. I think it was a Hogen brand. Have you used this type of cutter for large holes? It took very little time, with half the horsepower, and less chips.Those cutters are the way to go for large holes! Again, love your videos and keep your chips blue!
Drill into M42 HSS on your tail stock with a 1.5" drill bit and you'll feel the difference in the cutting angle of the drill. It's tough going. I also sharpen my 1.5" drills by hand on a 3/4" width grinding wheel. The skill is in keeping the angle true while moving left to right across the wheel. Great vid.
the 135 degree has about 40% less cut length for hard matieriels I've read some interesting articles on the web theres one that describes a drill point that ford motor used to drill like 30,000 holes I've read a lot about drill points and still picked up a few pointers (ha ha) so good stuff joe
Your grinding the edge when using on brass also works, for us that do not have a drill press handy and have to use hand drills to enlarge drilled holes by just a bit. i.e making a 1" hole out of a 7/8' hole.
Thank u joe for your time and your help a lot
Thanks for watching.
Hi Joe, it would've been nice seeing you in action and show us the actual sharpening of a drill bit...
good video!!! ..thanks for the information Joe.
If you ever need a giant wooden drill sharpened...Now you know how to do it. Thanks for checking in.
joe i am a carpenter by trade and have been watching your videos on machining and between yourself and mr pete222 i feel like i am in trade school your content delivery and presentations are awesome. i am interested in starting a home shop and wanted to ask you what you though about the pm-1228-vf-lb lathe. also never feel guilty about asking for help for a friend it is what makes you a good person. my prayers go out to mr dicarlo and his family and have also have been touched by that awful disease. Larry
Thanks Joe, i use big bits lots and your vid will come in handy.
have you got a video on how to use the general protractor the video on drill grinding was very useful
you can also use a hex nut to set the angle, have the next flat run parallel with the bit shank.
Great to see 4+years later you are still teach us all. DAREx? Was looking for creators this morning on older D-Grinders, (Gold paint, model No. and serials on tag to dinged up to read, but got one in a tool buy out, and have not found a pdf instruction or manual on ebay. Any help finding a sourse would be much appreciative,,,Bear. 11-13-21.
Thank you for the great informative video!!
Best explanatory video - thanks for the effort.
thanks joe thought i knew how to sharpen drill bits , i do now
Nice.
Joe, for a better choice of drill bit stock try mesquite. Your pine dowel had a hardness of 420, while mesquite or pecan is in the 2200 hardness range. Janka hardness measures the perpendicular denting on wood. I enjoyed your drill video.
I was thinking Lignum Vitae from southern Jamica may be my best option. Great comment, thanks.
Thank you so much for this great video. No one could havee xplained it better.
I've been hand sharpening drills for many years. They cut well and I thought I was doing a great job when using them in the drill press.... but when I mounted that drill bit in the tailstock of my lathe it was obvious it was only cutting on one side. Good wakeup call, and I think a great way to check that you have ground the bit properly.
Always cool Joe
Thanks again
Thank you Joe.