Thank you and congratulations you're the only one that actually showed the time in mark for the back. Everyone else that's bray's over it very important thank you sir
Hey man love to see the progress! I've done the timing belt a few times and it was nice to see it with the engine out of the car. That belt cover is the worst part. You can watch my how to video on making the hydraulic tensioner into a manual one with a bolt, but it looks like you got a new one! As far as the cam gears, I never locked mine down in any way. You can put a wrench, 17Mm I believe, on the gears and turn them by their bolts. They will stay in line but like to snap between positions. Just turn them slowly and they will sit where you leave them. Once you have the gears and crank lined up, drape the belt over the gears like it goes, and clamp it onto the rear gear with vice grips (use wood or something to prevent belt damage), and then make sure it's tight and do the same on the front gear. Once it's vice gripped on there, it won't be out of time between the two heads. That's a little wordy for you but I've got a link
forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701252234 There Ya go. Or search "probetalk manual timing tensioner" I'm showing you the "quick belt secret" if you didn't already know :)
Cramer Ward-Collings Anyone that hammers on that oil pump tab like a stupid monkey is just asking to put a hole in their oil pump. From reading comments that actually happened to one guy. It was a quality article up until that point. That's why I rarely visit ProbeTalk, the quality of advice is pretty low. I know you just wanted me to pay attention to the manual tensioner stuff and I remember your video vividly. I won't be doing a manual tensioner though, have a new auto tensioner which even that is unnecessary because the old one still works fine. Thank you for your advice Cramer I know your heart is in the right place.
Looks like you're making some good progress with your timing belt replacement. Good to replace all the components that the belt runs on including the water pump. And when you get the timing back as it should, you should get some more power out of that engine. Wow! Two o'clock in the morning...Be sure to get plenty of rest and good luck on your project.
I'm glad this video helped you and your father Pedro. Having the engine start up again the first attempt is always very gratifying. Congratulations to you and your father.
Great Job Devon, I did a head gasket video on this same engine and timing belt and lost the footage on a beat up computer, all that taping and a couple other videos that I was going to put out GONE. Great work though Your the man for the the Mazda's. Keep on smashin on those 626s
oldskool funk This is one of those "while the engine is out I might as well" kind of things. Make my life easier doing all of this with the engine out. Sucks you lost that footage I would have loved to have seen that. You working on 626's is how I found your channel in the first place. ;)
You know this already DJD, but just as an additional encouragement - as long as you have it off the car and with easy access, replace all those pulleys. They both sound bad. The tensioner pulley indeed looks in good shape, you could probably leave that one in. Also thanks for the belt inspection. I recently replaced mine and the one I took off looked almost brand new (probably had only about 25kkm on it, guess the guy selling me the car wasn't lying that it had just been replaced, that's refreshing :)), but I still replaced it since I already had it open and had the new one on hand. Good to see how a used one should look like ;) I had to use a 8kg crowbar, with serious leverage and my body weight on it to loosen the tension on the alternator belt (the alternator didn't want to swivel). That damn thing was held TIGHT and there was no moving that screw that's holding it, probably would've sheared it off if I tried any harder...). When tensioning back up, the tensioning screw worked nicely though. Just looks like the design is bad, you should have a screw that would allow you to remove the tension as well, instead of just working one way...
***** Yup I'm calling my local dealership today to order the pulleys and engine mount bolts. I've confirmed the KL water pump gasket is not metal like the FS, it's a large weird shaped rubber o-ring. I have one that came with my aftermarket water pump will probably use that. Will probably be $75 just for the bolts and pulleys. :(
***** Forget ordering pulleys from a Dealership. They want $150 per pulley!!! Ordered from RockAuto for $25 per pulley. Plenty of people have issues with the accessory belt tensioners. The design is a common complaint for owners of these engines. It's really easy to strip the screws. I'll get into all of that after the engine gets put back into the car and reassembling the accessory belts.
When I change a belt I mark the belt and all the gears and mark an arrow for direction of rotation with a paint pen. Remove belt, don't turn anything,. transfer marks to new belt -install and engine is in time. Probably a good idea to line things up the first time you do this, but marks don't even have to be lined up. I'm doing one of these now, but this one has a broken belt so I have to line up the marks and start from scratch.
Man, i was hoping you would give the camera a head on shot of that left cam so as to verify that the upper 2 cam dots were indeed out of line with Their 2 pointers! so hard to tell, and most of us dont have the engine out of the car and cant use that hidden mark on the block..we will be using the 2 dots that are visible.. yes the hidden mark looked a tooth off , i just wanted to see that verified by the 2 dots but couldnt see in ur vid....its one tooth off going via the yellow dot and its pointer
I just replaced mine as well. And it also rides towards the engine instead of the outside yet doesn't hit or rub on anything. I think by design that the belt has some leeway to walk towards one end or the other and the position of the tensioner is determines it. If it walks towards the engine, the crank gear has a lip that controls how far it goes. For the other side, one of the pulleys has the same. In my opinion, the belt was damaged by the cam pulley that shows wear.
MRgtgrinder No which is really weird. You can see from the slices on the edge of the belt it's like the belt slipped but grabbed the side of the cam gear or something like that. Really odd slices on the edge of the belt. Not sure why the cam gear would wear down to shiny metal like that unless the belt was slipping. Doing so should have thrown it out of time and chewed up some of the teeth but that didn't happen. Since it's silver and not rusted (steel) it's a recent issue. Never seen this happen before.
MRgtgrinder This is a used car and the P.O. drove it until there was no brake pads. I'm sure they blew the old engine and that's why this one was put in. I've only ever driven it about 10 ft backwards into the garage after a tow truck dropped it off. The engine did run and sounded very healthy.
***** It's the pulley. Once had a car that would eat the serpentine belt along the edge. Turned out to be the power steering pulley was the cause. Something got in there and damaged it.
Not sure if your still around but i have a 1997 626 manual 2.0 Canadian model. The car hesitates to accelerate and almost stalls out, i have replaced fuel pump, spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor with no luck. No check engine light. I'm pretty sure its running rich too. Also whenever it stops hesitating, there is a bang from the air box. Any help would be appreciated
Yo! Ok. so i just removed the crankshaft pulley on my 94 Probe GT and it looks way different than this one.... I can tell that the motor in this vid is a 95 or newer KL because of the water pump (I'm learning! LoL!) but is the harmonic balancer different on the older vs newer KLs as well????? The part of the crank pulley that the belt rides on is COMPLETELY smooth (no grooves for the belt to ride) and there is no "notch" cut out on the pulley painted white to set timing against the timing cover while the pulley is turning.
Thanks alot! This is a huge help!! If a timing belt breaks could the valves get damaged? i don't know how close the valves run to the piston or if the Kl's are interference motors or not? My friend wants to buy a 97 probe gt but the timing belt broke. I hope the heads don't have to be pulled.
+Zen Attitude All Mazda KL V6 and FS I4 motors are non-interference. The only way the valves will touch is due to poor maintenance and allowing the piston to become severely gunked over with hard carbon deposit but they won't crunch. They will never touch metal to metal unless a valve guide drops or spring retainer has broken. This is the beauty of a non-interference design.
Zen Attitude You'll get a little higher compression and more power generally from an interference engine but better reliability, maintenance cost, and longevity out of a non-interference engine. In theory anyway. I don't ever want to own an interference engine it's like having a black cloud over your head that could hit you with lightning at any time. I wouldn't want to live like that.
Also, at 14:15, were you referring to the water pump gasket?? Mine isn't thin metal in my 94, it's just a piece of rubber that rides in a groove around the inside of the water pump. maybe another difference between the earlier and later KL pumps.
+jkenney940 Talking about the difference in the gasket between the 2.0L and 2.5L engine (FS vs KL). You can see what I'm talking about at 4:21 in the I4 water pump video. ruclips.net/video/MFc2YIG9P1M/видео.html
+DJDevon3 Thanks! I also have another dilemma. Are there different crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancers) for the KLs? I have a 94 and it looks very different from the one in this vid. It's COMPLETELY smooth where the outer belt rides and there is no "notch" to reference against the timing cover.
+jkenney940 Good catch! The 1996 KL harmonic balancer you see in my video has teeth for the crankshaft position sensor. They started doing that in 1996 for OBD-II. The 1993-1995 crankshaft position sensor is inside the distributor (reluctor wheel). There should still be a notch in the middle. It gets gunked up with dirt sometimes but it should be there for the purpose of using a timing light which is even more important for the 1993-1995 OBD-I model than the 96/97 OBD-II model. It might not be painted but it should be there... otherwise how are you going to time your engine. ;) The paint naturally comes off after a couple of years and mechanics would usually reapply paint to the notch when you would get a tune up because they would have to confirm timing advance.
+DJDevon3 Thanks Big Homie! I'll go back and check it more carefully for the notch. I was getting a little nervous wondering how I was going to time the engine! LoL!! BTW, I've been filming the timing belt job and restoration of my Probe. I gave you a shout out in a couple of the vids. Got a little more editing to do and I'll hit up when I start posting them. 👍 Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have more questions. LoL.
Hello DJDevon, Did you ever get any feedback or did you ever figure out how to lock the cams on the V6 in changing out the T-belt in case they move out of placement as you had requested? My main concern on my MX6 is basically the same as you also had. Just in case I go in and the belt happens to be in bad shape I may have to consider changing it. I'm not even sure which way the engine should be rotated in the possibility they do accidentally move. Any suggestions? Waiting on a repair manual, also if you have any further recommendations I'd be grateful. Thanks
Just use wrenches like I did in my FS timing belt video. You can always find a place to tie off the wire to the wrenches if you provide a long enough piece of wire. ;) I'll make a video when the replacement pulleys arrive. Part 2 coming soon? Direction of camshaft and harmonic balancer are clockwise toward the front of the of the engine, away from the driver.
The engine itself can be used yes but ensure you use the Millenia engine mounts and brackets from your old engine. Here's why. ruclips.net/video/S_yAB4T_xQA/видео.html
Hi i need some advice on my mx6 auto it overfeuls all the way when driving it drives smooth but when you floor it its like stalling and give plenty black smoke(feul) and revs limit at 4000rpm
Is there a way to replace the water pump only without even interfering with the timing belt at all? Reason I ask is my water pump ( shop quoted $350.00) needs replacing and would like to do it myself since I don't have $600 -700.00 to have them both replaced at a shop at this time. At the 9:45 minute mark and onwards it appears the water pump can slide out from behind the belt but as video was incomplete I can't really tell for sure. Is there a part 2 available or another video someone can point me to, would really be appreciated . I believe I can do the pump only but don't have a clue about timing/adjustments and not ready to take the risk of messing up the whole engine. When I get the spare money if the timing belt needs changing, hopefully within two months then I can have the timing belt changed.
Yes it can slide from behind the belt that's how it's supposed to be. The problem is one of safety really. You must remove the engine mount bracket on the engine side before the water pump pulley can be removed. Ensure you support the engine extremely well. If the engine tilts you can get your hand pinched between the sidewall and the engine. Let me assure you the engine is too heavy to move by hand so if you get your hand stuck there is no moving it and it will crush every bone in your hand, never do this procedure alone while the engine is in the vehicle. It's obviously much more safe to do it with the engine out of the vehicle but that's not how it's normally done. I have the luxury of showing it where everything is easy to see. You probably won't have that luxury. Be safe!
No part 2 yet engine is still sitting in exactly the same place in exactly the same condition a year later. :( I got really sick. My health is a daily struggle. That's life.
Thank you for getting back to me & so quickly too.. A shop told me the timing belt had to be done/removed they wanted $750.+ also decided to check with Autozone and they gave me a generic ( but probably Mazda) schematic..and I plan to get a repair manual. Anyway long story short I feel more confident with this info you provided that I can attempt the water-pump replacement when I have some time. I will be extremely careful..thanks so much for your attention to safety. Hope you feel better real soon. Get plenty of rest , water, fresh air and praise & thank God regardless of situation. You'll be alright. Thanks again.
The water pump is accessory belt driven on both the 4-cylinder FS and 6-cylinder KL. They might have said that as a way to ensure you change both the timing belt and pump at the same time. It's always highly recommended to have both done at the same time. Yes I would recommend the same thing however I would have told you the truth that the accessory belt powers the pump. You have to remove the accessory belts to get at it anyway so it's not really that big of a mistake. $750 is a fair price for the work involved on the V6. There are more risks associated with the V6 than the I4 engine. In some areas double the work due to 2 heads instead of 1 like the FS. Thank you for taking notice of all the warnings and risks associated with this job. It can be very dangerous if you aren't cautious about safety especially jack positioning. Be safe and if possible take some video and share with everyone!
Hi is there suppose to be any vibration in the belt at all? When i pull the plast back by the 2nd cam top right i can see a small amount of vibration on the belt right before the cam.
Theoretically in a perfect world, no. However a tiny amount of vibration can be considered normal depending on the wear of the idler pulleys, faulty tensioner, and belt stretch can create some vibration yes. Not so much as normal but an expected result of worn components. When it gets worse it will turn into what is known as belt slap. There are plenty of videos on timing belt slap on youtube, look some up to see what happens when it gets worse.
No absolutely not. I only did it in my specific case because the previous owner swapped in a new engine and used the wrong engine brackets on the engine itself. Engine had to come out to be redone with the proper brackets. Did the timing belt and other stuff as long as the engine was out. You can do a timing belt change with the engine in the vehicle for sure.
DJDevon3 Thank you for answering. And for the reassurance. Just bought my doughter a 99 626 with that motor. Runs like a top but im sure its just a matter of time.
Can you tell me if it's a free running engine? I have the Mazda xedos 6 2.0 144ps and the timing belt was broken.. Mazda told me it's a free runner.. But we bought a new timing belt and timed the engine.. It still don't work
if you mean by Freerunner is it a NON interference engine, yes it is!...thats from me doing my timing belt and checking for my self...no damage happens on these when a belt breaks
Yeah it is ok, I recently sold the old girl bro. Now i have a 2005 Vw Passat B6 2.0 Tdi estate. She will be sadly missed as she was my first car and a great car she was. How is yours doing?
Big Jordie86 Sitting in the driveway waiting for me to swap in the mtx wiring harness. Can't get it into the garage until I get the V6 out so been stuck for a while due to health. Sorry to hear you sold the 626. The Passat is a good vehicle. Best of luck to you. :)
+DJDevon3 Registered already I replaced the timing belt with a friend and now i how to put a part that looks like a big washer 😣 i dont have it with me but i can send you a picture
jkenney940 Saving up some money, it doesn't grow on trees, I'm sure you can respect that. I have to go to a junkyard and get new cam gears. It looks like they've been worn down on the teeth, like the teeth are smoothed over. That might be the way it is on the V6? I'm used to really straight teeth on my FS. The right marked cam gear definitely needs replacing regardless. Also sanding, buffing, polishing aluminum valve covers and my brother is reupholstering the seats. Have 3 different videos projects going at the same time.
+DJDevon3 Yes, I can DEFINITELY respect that. My Probe GT has been sitting for a few years now while I've been waiting for money to "grow on trees"!! LoL!! Anyway, got a new job now and got as little extra mula so I'm gonna tackle the beast! I'm doing timing belt/water pump replacement along with all pulleys and tensioner, valve cover gaskets, steering rack bushing replacement and brakes all the way around. Working a full time job and going to welding school starting next month so time is kind of an issue but my goal is to have her road worthy before New Years. I'm somewhat of a noob and a backyard mechanic so I'll be working kinda slow too. Your videos along with andrenegwer and Cramer Ward-Collings videos have been my KL Bible!! LoL!! I'm not as good as you guys, but I'm gonna post a few low end vids showing my progress and I'll be sure to shout you out! Thanks for all you do and have done bro!
+DJDevon3 Ok, so far I've taken the intake manifold off to get at the rear valve cover. The "Bitch Bolt" was in fact a bitch! LoL!! I did research on the forums before pulling the IM so it was nowhere near as bad as it would have been not knowing about it I'm sure. Still extremely tight space and tough to turn a wrench. After I broke it loose enough, it was fingertips ftw! LoL! Question... I plan on ordering a timing belt/water pump kit with all accessories this week so I can get started next weekend. I see tons of kits on eBay at GREAT prices! Are the eBay kits any good? Or are they cheap crap that I'll be replacing in 2-3 months? I also found a Gates kit that includes the hydraulic tensioner and water pump for about $220 (free shipping). Is that a good price for a Gates 2.5L KL kit? EBay kits price sounds soooooo much better coming in around $100 (free shipping) (has everything the Gates kit has, a few extras too I think). Let me know what you think and what you're gonna be working with. Also if you recommend any other kits, I'm all ears man! Thanks!!
jkenney940 Gates kit is good, I think that's the same kit Andy got for his MX-6, should be fine with the Gates kit. Most of the kits on eBay are the same as what is on RockAuto. They're all aftermarket parts. The best parts are from a dealership but those are like $130 for 1 pulley ridiculously expensive.
There is no cam timing on these vehicles compared to US domestic interference engines because these Mazda engines are non-interference if that's what you mean. There is one mechanical cam setting which is known as true if the U-notch on the harmonic balancer is pointing straight up and the cam gear arrows are pointing at the two locations I show, while putting on the timing belt. Hope that answers your question. If you mean ignition timing it's 10-12 degrees before top dead center depending if it’s an automatic or manual.
@@DJDevon3 I'm saying the dohc have marks on the back of the gears. When meshed they are side by side.. when I put the cam pulley on the timing marks are nowhere close to what the valve cover sits at. If you have an email I'd be happy to send a video
Kenny Parr I’m on FB if that’s easier. I don’t do email. The cam gear bolt when torque to spec should ensure the cams point about 15 degrees away from center. That’s because they require spring pressure. I have a timing belt video on my 4 cylinder that covers the topic.
I do not have a video specifically covering where to find them. There are plenty of tutorials online that show exactly where it's located with images. I recommend doing an internet search.
HI DJDevon. Please, where do i find the engine number in my 626 just like yours, but a manual transmission. If you have a video of the location, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
It's on the backside of the head. It's stamped into the head during production. Look for it to say KL101 or KL1A1 for a V6 KL-DE engine. Identification stamps are also found on the camshafts. Here is a video that shows what the stamps look like on the head. ruclips.net/video/hC942epPzi4/видео.htmlm27s
Thanks DJ, You're the best. Sorry for the switch in name, i also run a channel with the previous name. Remember i told you some time ago that my engine was hesitating, the problem was the timing, it was not properly aligned. We were looking for the fault in all the wrong places. After the timing was fixed, the misfire stopped and everything is ok. Thank you.
It's an involved procedure for sure. A lot of things to disconnect. Define hard? What is hard for one person might be easy for another. It's tedious but doable.
I can try. I'm from the US so there might be some differences in the vehicle wiring and components. I only have experience with the US 626 model please keep that in mind.
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Thank you and congratulations you're the only one that actually showed the time in mark for the back.
Everyone else that's bray's over it very important thank you sir
This is an awesome "How-to" video for anyone faced with the same project. Love the way you highlight with closeups!
Mr. Mazda Thanks. Have to wait for the idlers to get here before continuing. Opening an engine is like a box of chocolates sometimes.
***** Yep. Never know what you're getting into until it happens. Keep up the good work
Excellent explanation and detail in showing timing marks which are very hard to see. Thanks for the extra effort.
Hey man love to see the progress! I've done the timing belt a few times and it was nice to see it with the engine out of the car. That belt cover is the worst part. You can watch my how to video on making the hydraulic tensioner into a manual one with a bolt, but it looks like you got a new one!
As far as the cam gears, I never locked mine down in any way. You can put a wrench, 17Mm I believe, on the gears and turn them by their bolts. They will stay in line but like to snap between positions. Just turn them slowly and they will sit where you leave them.
Once you have the gears and crank lined up, drape the belt over the gears like it goes, and clamp it onto the rear gear with vice grips (use wood or something to prevent belt damage), and then make sure it's tight and do the same on the front gear. Once it's vice gripped on there, it won't be out of time between the two heads.
That's a little wordy for you but I've got a link
forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701252234
There Ya go.
Or search "probetalk manual timing tensioner"
I'm showing you the "quick belt secret" if you didn't already know :)
Also you can use rtv to seal those cam caps. I did on my 6 and it's still holding rock solid many thousands of miles later
Cramer Ward-Collings Good point will do that instead. :)
Cramer Ward-Collings Anyone that hammers on that oil pump tab like a stupid monkey is just asking to put a hole in their oil pump. From reading comments that actually happened to one guy. It was a quality article up until that point. That's why I rarely visit ProbeTalk, the quality of advice is pretty low. I know you just wanted me to pay attention to the manual tensioner stuff and I remember your video vividly. I won't be doing a manual tensioner though, have a new auto tensioner which even that is unnecessary because the old one still works fine. Thank you for your advice Cramer I know your heart is in the right place.
***** I hit mine off. It comes off easy :) I just used a pry bar and gave it a tap with a hammer and it came off super easy
Looks like you're making some good progress with your timing belt replacement. Good to replace all the components that the belt runs on including the water pump. And when you get the timing back as it should, you should get some more power out of that engine. Wow! Two o'clock in the morning...Be sure to get plenty of rest and good luck on your project.
stuzman52 Ordered the 2 idler pulleys and intake manifold gasket set from RockAuto today. Should be here in about 4 days.
What happened to part 2? I've got a 2000 626 V6 and I'm thinking about replacing the tensioner.
Un bolt it and bolt the new one in
@@jamesmoore716 how do you tell that the tensioner is due for replacement.
im 13 and helped my dad that neded help and well at the first start the engine worked. this video helped a lot
I'm glad this video helped you and your father Pedro. Having the engine start up again the first attempt is always very gratifying. Congratulations to you and your father.
and thank you because this car is working at 100% becouse the belt had broken on the high way
Great Job Devon, I did a head gasket video on this same engine and timing belt and lost the footage on a beat up computer, all that taping and a couple other videos that I was going to put out GONE. Great work though Your the man for the the Mazda's. Keep on smashin on those 626s
oldskool funk This is one of those "while the engine is out I might as well" kind of things. Make my life easier doing all of this with the engine out. Sucks you lost that footage I would have loved to have seen that. You working on 626's is how I found your channel in the first place. ;)
You know this already DJD, but just as an additional encouragement - as long as you have it off the car and with easy access, replace all those pulleys. They both sound bad. The tensioner pulley indeed looks in good shape, you could probably leave that one in.
Also thanks for the belt inspection. I recently replaced mine and the one I took off looked almost brand new (probably had only about 25kkm on it, guess the guy selling me the car wasn't lying that it had just been replaced, that's refreshing :)), but I still replaced it since I already had it open and had the new one on hand. Good to see how a used one should look like ;)
I had to use a 8kg crowbar, with serious leverage and my body weight on it to loosen the tension on the alternator belt (the alternator didn't want to swivel).
That damn thing was held TIGHT and there was no moving that screw that's holding it, probably would've sheared it off if I tried any harder...). When tensioning back up, the tensioning screw worked nicely though. Just looks like the design is bad, you should have a screw that would allow you to remove the tension as well, instead of just working one way...
***** Yup I'm calling my local dealership today to order the pulleys and engine mount bolts. I've confirmed the KL water pump gasket is not metal like the FS, it's a large weird shaped rubber o-ring. I have one that came with my aftermarket water pump will probably use that. Will probably be $75 just for the bolts and pulleys. :(
***** Forget ordering pulleys from a Dealership. They want $150 per pulley!!! Ordered from RockAuto for $25 per pulley. Plenty of people have issues with the accessory belt tensioners. The design is a common complaint for owners of these engines. It's really easy to strip the screws. I'll get into all of that after the engine gets put back into the car and reassembling the accessory belts.
Keep the vids coming bro! Much Appreciated!!
When I change a belt I mark the belt and all the gears and mark an arrow for direction of rotation with a paint pen. Remove belt, don't turn anything,. transfer marks to new belt -install and engine is in time. Probably a good idea to line things up the first time you do this, but marks don't even have to be lined up. I'm doing one of these now, but this one has a broken belt so I have to line up the marks and start from scratch.
And While I'm at it,
Thanks Devon.
You're a Godsend.
Man, i was hoping you would give the camera a head on shot of that left cam so as to verify that the upper 2 cam dots were indeed out of line with Their 2 pointers! so hard to tell, and most of us dont have the engine out of the car and cant use that hidden mark on the block..we will be using the 2 dots that are visible.. yes the hidden mark looked a tooth off , i just wanted to see that verified by the 2 dots but couldnt see in ur vid....its one tooth off going via the yellow dot and its pointer
I just replaced mine as well. And it also rides towards the engine instead of the outside yet doesn't hit or rub on anything. I think by design that the belt has some leeway to walk towards one end or the other and the position of the tensioner is determines it. If it walks towards the engine, the crank gear has a lip that controls how far it goes. For the other side, one of the pulleys has the same.
In my opinion, the belt was damaged by the cam pulley that shows wear.
MRgtgrinder Thanks for that info. I've been contemplating getting another cam gear from a junkyard. I guess this settles it. Thanks MRgtgrinder.
***** Are there any other indications of the belt rubbing anywhere else?
MRgtgrinder No which is really weird. You can see from the slices on the edge of the belt it's like the belt slipped but grabbed the side of the cam gear or something like that. Really odd slices on the edge of the belt. Not sure why the cam gear would wear down to shiny metal like that unless the belt was slipping. Doing so should have thrown it out of time and chewed up some of the teeth but that didn't happen. Since it's silver and not rusted (steel) it's a recent issue. Never seen this happen before.
MRgtgrinder This is a used car and the P.O. drove it until there was no brake pads. I'm sure they blew the old engine and that's why this one was put in. I've only ever driven it about 10 ft backwards into the garage after a tow truck dropped it off. The engine did run and sounded very healthy.
***** It's the pulley. Once had a car that would eat the serpentine belt along the edge. Turned out to be the power steering pulley was the cause. Something got in there and damaged it.
Thanks!! i have a ford probe with KLDE engine Great video!!!
Abraham Gaete Thanks for watching. Part 2 coming soon.
***** you´re Amazing! Thanks!!
What could be the cause of the Engine failure to start when all the timing marks are aligned?
Could it be the tensioner that is faulty?
I have a puller like that, good video keep them coming.
Not sure if your still around but i have a 1997 626 manual 2.0 Canadian model. The car hesitates to accelerate and almost stalls out, i have replaced fuel pump, spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor with no luck. No check engine light. I'm pretty sure its running rich too. Also whenever it stops hesitating, there is a bang from the air box. Any help would be appreciated
Do you have to pull engine to replace water pump
Excellent video, dude! Where's part 2? :/
Yo! Ok. so i just removed the crankshaft pulley on my 94 Probe GT and it looks way different than this one.... I can tell that the motor in this vid is a 95 or newer KL because of the water pump (I'm learning! LoL!) but is the harmonic balancer different on the older vs newer KLs as well?????
The part of the crank pulley that the belt rides on is COMPLETELY smooth (no grooves for the belt to ride) and there is no "notch" cut out on the pulley painted white to set timing against the timing cover while the pulley is turning.
So I'm getting the picture that you have to pull the engine to do this job right?
Good video! Have you got the reference number in rockauto for the timing cover?
Where did you get the new tensioner???
Thanks alot! This is a huge help!! If a timing belt breaks could the valves get damaged? i don't know how close the valves run to the piston or if the Kl's are interference motors or not? My friend wants to buy a 97 probe gt but the timing belt broke. I hope the heads don't have to be pulled.
+Zen Attitude All Mazda KL V6 and FS I4 motors are non-interference. The only way the valves will touch is due to poor maintenance and allowing the piston to become severely gunked over with hard carbon deposit but they won't crunch. They will never touch metal to metal unless a valve guide drops or spring retainer has broken. This is the beauty of a non-interference design.
Thanks for the information. I had an eclipse and the belt broke and it screwed up the valves. Damn interference motors!!!
Zen Attitude You'll get a little higher compression and more power generally from an interference engine but better reliability, maintenance cost, and longevity out of a non-interference engine. In theory anyway. I don't ever want to own an interference engine it's like having a black cloud over your head that could hit you with lightning at any time. I wouldn't want to live like that.
Also, at 14:15, were you referring to the water pump gasket??
Mine isn't thin metal in my 94, it's just a piece of rubber that rides in a groove around the inside of the water pump.
maybe another difference between the earlier and later KL pumps.
+jkenney940 Talking about the difference in the gasket between the 2.0L and 2.5L engine (FS vs KL). You can see what I'm talking about at 4:21 in the I4 water pump video. ruclips.net/video/MFc2YIG9P1M/видео.html
+jkenney940 There is a 2.0L V6 (KF) so if you've worked on a KF before I can see where that might confuse people. I'm talking about the 2.0L FS.
+DJDevon3
Thanks! I also have another dilemma. Are there different crankshaft pulleys (harmonic balancers) for the KLs?
I have a 94 and it looks very different from the one in this vid. It's COMPLETELY smooth where the outer belt rides and there is no "notch" to reference against the timing cover.
+jkenney940 Good catch! The 1996 KL harmonic balancer you see in my video has teeth for the crankshaft position sensor. They started doing that in 1996 for OBD-II. The 1993-1995 crankshaft position sensor is inside the distributor (reluctor wheel). There should still be a notch in the middle. It gets gunked up with dirt sometimes but it should be there for the purpose of using a timing light which is even more important for the 1993-1995 OBD-I model than the 96/97 OBD-II model. It might not be painted but it should be there... otherwise how are you going to time your engine. ;) The paint naturally comes off after a couple of years and mechanics would usually reapply paint to the notch when you would get a tune up because they would have to confirm timing advance.
+DJDevon3
Thanks Big Homie! I'll go back and check it more carefully for the notch.
I was getting a little nervous wondering how I was going to time the engine! LoL!!
BTW, I've been filming the timing belt job and restoration of my Probe. I gave you a shout out in a couple of the vids. Got a little more editing to do and I'll hit up when I start posting them. 👍
Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have more questions. LoL.
Hey Devon,
I'm at the part 2 point but I'm not seeing part 2 up here. Can I trouble you to post a link?
Is this the same process for the 929 3.0 v6 engine?
Hello DJDevon, Did you ever get any feedback or did you ever figure out how to lock the cams on the V6 in changing out the T-belt in case they move out of placement as you had requested? My main concern on my MX6 is basically the same as you also had. Just in case I go in and the belt happens to be in bad shape I may have to consider changing it. I'm not even sure which way the engine should be rotated in the possibility they do accidentally move. Any suggestions? Waiting on a repair manual, also if you have any further recommendations I'd be grateful. Thanks
Just use wrenches like I did in my FS timing belt video. You can always find a place to tie off the wire to the wrenches if you provide a long enough piece of wire. ;) I'll make a video when the replacement pulleys arrive. Part 2 coming soon? Direction of camshaft and harmonic balancer are clockwise toward the front of the of the engine, away from the driver.
heh it's easy when engine is out ;D
so I have a millenia 97 with the 2.5 like this motor, a motor out of a 93 626 2.5, will the motor interchange?
The engine itself can be used yes but ensure you use the Millenia engine mounts and brackets from your old engine. Here's why. ruclips.net/video/S_yAB4T_xQA/видео.html
Okay thats what i wanted to know, ill be sure to change the engine mounts and brackets off mine and put them on the motor
Hi i need some advice on my mx6 auto it overfeuls all the way when driving it drives smooth but when you floor it its like stalling and give plenty black smoke(feul) and revs limit at 4000rpm
Sounds like a classic vacuum leak. Take it to a mechanic that can run a quick vacuum leak test on it. ;)
Can you used Timing belt 135 in replace to Timing Belt 133, Mazda 626, 95 Model..
Is there a way to replace the water pump only without even interfering with the timing belt at all? Reason I ask is my water pump ( shop quoted $350.00) needs replacing and would like to do it myself since I don't have $600 -700.00 to have them both replaced at a shop at this time. At the 9:45 minute mark and onwards it appears the water pump can slide out from behind the belt but as video was incomplete I can't really tell for sure. Is there a part 2 available or another video someone can point me to, would really be appreciated . I believe I can do the pump only but don't have a clue about timing/adjustments and not ready to take the risk of messing up the whole engine. When I get the spare money if the timing belt needs changing, hopefully within two months then I can have the timing belt changed.
Yes it can slide from behind the belt that's how it's supposed to be. The problem is one of safety really. You must remove the engine mount bracket on the engine side before the water pump pulley can be removed. Ensure you support the engine extremely well. If the engine tilts you can get your hand pinched between the sidewall and the engine. Let me assure you the engine is too heavy to move by hand so if you get your hand stuck there is no moving it and it will crush every bone in your hand, never do this procedure alone while the engine is in the vehicle. It's obviously much more safe to do it with the engine out of the vehicle but that's not how it's normally done. I have the luxury of showing it where everything is easy to see. You probably won't have that luxury. Be safe!
No part 2 yet engine is still sitting in exactly the same place in exactly the same condition a year later. :( I got really sick. My health is a daily struggle. That's life.
Thank you for getting back to me & so quickly too.. A shop told me the timing belt had to be done/removed they wanted $750.+ also decided to check with Autozone and they gave me a generic ( but probably Mazda) schematic..and I plan to get a repair manual. Anyway long story short I feel more confident with this info you provided that I can attempt the water-pump replacement when I have some time. I will be extremely careful..thanks so much for your attention to safety. Hope you feel better real soon. Get plenty of rest , water, fresh air and praise & thank God regardless of situation. You'll be alright. Thanks again.
Btw, The schematic appears to show the pump as accessory-belt driven, not timing belt driven as the shop had told me.
The water pump is accessory belt driven on both the 4-cylinder FS and 6-cylinder KL. They might have said that as a way to ensure you change both the timing belt and pump at the same time. It's always highly recommended to have both done at the same time. Yes I would recommend the same thing however I would have told you the truth that the accessory belt powers the pump. You have to remove the accessory belts to get at it anyway so it's not really that big of a mistake. $750 is a fair price for the work involved on the V6. There are more risks associated with the V6 than the I4 engine. In some areas double the work due to 2 heads instead of 1 like the FS. Thank you for taking notice of all the warnings and risks associated with this job. It can be very dangerous if you aren't cautious about safety especially jack positioning. Be safe and if possible take some video and share with everyone!
i can not see Mazda 626 - V6 Timing Belt & Water Pump Part 2
There isn't one, never finished. Got sick and just never got back to it. Sorry.
Damn I was looking for part 2 as well. Lol still haven't gotten to finish?
@@DJDevon3 We miss you, brotha. Be well.
What happened to part 2?
Hi is there suppose to be any vibration in the belt at all? When i pull the plast back by the 2nd cam top right i can see a small amount of vibration on the belt right before the cam.
Theoretically in a perfect world, no. However a tiny amount of vibration can be considered normal depending on the wear of the idler pulleys, faulty tensioner, and belt stretch can create some vibration yes. Not so much as normal but an expected result of worn components. When it gets worse it will turn into what is known as belt slap. There are plenty of videos on timing belt slap on youtube, look some up to see what happens when it gets worse.
***** Take a look at this let me know what you think Or go to my channel and look at my most recent video please and thanks. watch?v=rJQHB5dssgM
+DJDevon3 Let me know what you think i just uploaded that other video if you dont see it here go to my channel it should be the latest upload
great great work
Do i gather correctly that the motor has to come out for a timing belt change?
No absolutely not. I only did it in my specific case because the previous owner swapped in a new engine and used the wrong engine brackets on the engine itself. Engine had to come out to be redone with the proper brackets. Did the timing belt and other stuff as long as the engine was out. You can do a timing belt change with the engine in the vehicle for sure.
DJDevon3 Thank you for answering.
And for the reassurance.
Just bought my doughter a 99 626 with that motor.
Runs like a top but im sure its just a matter of time.
Can you tell me if it's a free running engine? I have the Mazda xedos 6 2.0 144ps and the timing belt was broken.. Mazda told me it's a free runner.. But we bought a new timing belt and timed the engine.. It still don't work
if you mean by Freerunner is it a NON interference engine, yes it is!...thats from me doing my timing belt and checking for my self...no damage happens on these when a belt breaks
hey bro, can you tell me if the k8 crankshaft is compatible with the kl-de engine?
No
+DJDevon3..Does the timing belt drive the water pump on the 1.8 97 GE
+Big Jordie86 Edited: No, the water pump is powered by the accessory belt. The oil pump is powered by the timing belt. Sorry for the mix up!
*****..Ok thanks brother👊
Oops I made a mistake here sorry! The water pump is powered by an accessory belt.
Yeah it is ok, I recently sold the old girl bro. Now i have a 2005 Vw Passat B6 2.0 Tdi estate. She will be sadly missed as she was my first car and a great car she was. How is yours doing?
Big Jordie86 Sitting in the driveway waiting for me to swap in the mtx wiring harness. Can't get it into the garage until I get the V6 out so been stuck for a while due to health. Sorry to hear you sold the 626. The Passat is a good vehicle. Best of luck to you. :)
now to do this with the engine mounted inside the Probe bay.
oh wait, i can't even fit my hand in :)
just to be clear, there is no part 2??
Sorry no. Got sick and haven't picked up a wrench since.
sorry to hear, watched your suspension swap video a couple times before doing mine, was a big help!
get well soon i got an mx6 to fix!!
+DJDevon3
Can you help me i have a 2000 mazda 626
Can you give me your email please
S Santana Register on Mazda626.net and post your question there.
+DJDevon3
Registered already
I replaced the timing belt with a friend and now i how to put a part that looks like a big washer 😣 i dont have it with me but i can send you a picture
Dude! I need part 2 like Yesterday!!!! LoL!!!
When's it comin out???
jkenney940 Saving up some money, it doesn't grow on trees, I'm sure you can respect that. I have to go to a junkyard and get new cam gears. It looks like they've been worn down on the teeth, like the teeth are smoothed over. That might be the way it is on the V6? I'm used to really straight teeth on my FS. The right marked cam gear definitely needs replacing regardless. Also sanding, buffing, polishing aluminum valve covers and my brother is reupholstering the seats. Have 3 different videos projects going at the same time.
+DJDevon3
Yes, I can DEFINITELY respect that. My Probe GT has been sitting for a few years now while I've been waiting for money to "grow on trees"!! LoL!!
Anyway, got a new job now and got as little extra mula so I'm gonna tackle the beast!
I'm doing timing belt/water pump replacement along with all pulleys and tensioner, valve cover gaskets, steering rack bushing replacement and brakes all the way around. Working a full time job and going to welding school starting next month so time is kind of an issue but my goal is to have her road worthy before New Years.
I'm somewhat of a noob and a backyard mechanic so I'll be working kinda slow too.
Your videos along with andrenegwer and Cramer Ward-Collings videos have been my KL Bible!! LoL!!
I'm not as good as you guys, but I'm gonna post a few low end vids showing my progress and I'll be sure to shout you out!
Thanks for all you do and have done bro!
+DJDevon3
Ok, so far I've taken the intake manifold off to get at the rear valve cover.
The "Bitch Bolt" was in fact a bitch! LoL!! I did research on the forums before pulling the IM so it was nowhere near as bad as it would have been not knowing about it I'm sure.
Still extremely tight space and tough to turn a wrench. After I broke it loose enough, it was fingertips ftw! LoL!
Question... I plan on ordering a timing belt/water pump kit with all accessories this week so I can get started next weekend. I see tons of kits on eBay at GREAT prices! Are the eBay kits any good? Or are they cheap crap that I'll be replacing in 2-3 months?
I also found a Gates kit that includes the hydraulic tensioner and water pump for about $220 (free shipping). Is that a good price for a Gates 2.5L KL kit?
EBay kits price sounds soooooo much better coming in around $100 (free shipping) (has everything the Gates kit has, a few extras too I think).
Let me know what you think and what you're gonna be working with.
Also if you recommend any other kits, I'm all ears man!
Thanks!!
jkenney940
Gates kit is good, I think that's the same kit Andy got for his MX-6, should be fine with the Gates kit. Most of the kits on eBay are the same as what is on RockAuto. They're all aftermarket parts. The best parts are from a dealership but those are like $130 for 1 pulley ridiculously expensive.
Where is part 2?
إن النسبة الكبيره من الشاشه مغطى بالترجمه وبهذا لا يمكننا من رؤية المزيد من الشرح عن اجزاء المحرك وشكرآآ
Will this work on a 96 millenia supercharger?
If you mean a Mazda KJ engine no, completely different process. Recommend you find some KJ engine documentation online. :/
Have you ever had to set cams?
There is no cam timing on these vehicles compared to US domestic interference engines because these Mazda engines are non-interference if that's what you mean. There is one mechanical cam setting which is known as true if the U-notch on the harmonic balancer is pointing straight up and the cam gear arrows are pointing at the two locations I show, while putting on the timing belt. Hope that answers your question. If you mean ignition timing it's 10-12 degrees before top dead center depending if it’s an automatic or manual.
@@DJDevon3 I'm saying the dohc have marks on the back of the gears. When meshed they are side by side.. when I put the cam pulley on the timing marks are nowhere close to what the valve cover sits at. If you have an email I'd be happy to send a video
Kenny Parr I’m on FB if that’s easier. I don’t do email. The cam gear bolt when torque to spec should ensure the cams point about 15 degrees away from center. That’s because they require spring pressure. I have a timing belt video on my 4 cylinder that covers the topic.
Thanks for contacting me on FB and sharing a video. That was much easier! Hope you get everything sorted out.
hi my name is Raymond I have a problem in dashboard masda Cronos or masda 626 v6 2.500cc
Please elaborate in detail if you want my help. That's not nearly enough information to be helpful. I'm not a mind reader.
What size socket did you use?
lmgtfy.com/?q=mazda+626+crankshaft+pulley+bolt+size
i think its a 19mm from memory...tighten to 120ftlbs
Where is the engine number located on these?
I do not have a video specifically covering where to find them. There are plenty of tutorials online that show exactly where it's located with images. I recommend doing an internet search.
Puedo poner un tensor de de correa de a no 97 a un sa ño 626 99 2.5
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
HI DJDevon. Please, where do i find the engine number in my 626 just like yours, but a manual transmission.
If you have a video of the location, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.
It's on the backside of the head. It's stamped into the head during production. Look for it to say KL101 or KL1A1 for a V6 KL-DE engine. Identification stamps are also found on the camshafts. Here is a video that shows what the stamps look like on the head. ruclips.net/video/hC942epPzi4/видео.htmlm27s
Thanks DJ, You're the best. Sorry for the switch in name, i also run a channel with the previous name.
Remember i told you some time ago that my engine was hesitating, the problem was the timing, it was not properly aligned. We were looking for the fault in all the wrong places.
After the timing was fixed, the misfire stopped and everything is ok.
Thank you.
Ho Devon, was it hard to take it off ? I mean the engine, take it off the car....Thanks
It's an involved procedure for sure. A lot of things to disconnect. Define hard? What is hard for one person might be easy for another. It's tedious but doable.
Top en mano
can help me...?
i am from indonesia ....
I can try. I'm from the US so there might be some differences in the vehicle wiring and components. I only have experience with the US 626 model please keep that in mind.
Nomer mesin nya di sebelah mana yah?
kereta mazda 626,minyak selinder bercampur air,tangki minyak jadi mcm susu pekat.
Blown head gasket. Do some head gasket tests.
Belt was in very bad condition
+Phen0mable Definitely time to be replaced yes. No danger of it failing immediately though. Still had thousands of miles left in it.