Buy from Unicomp: www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/NEW_M Buy from The Keyboard Company: www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/new-model-m-keyboards-black-with-white-and-gray-keys-usb.asp Buy the Wera 5.5mm Nut Spinner from Amazon (Affiliate): - UK: amzn.to/3J7PNyV - US: amzn.to/3J6Aarh Buy the FIlco Key Puller from Amazon (Affiliate): - UK: amzn.to/3D1LqS7 - US: amzn.to/3Dq14Hd
I actually have this keyboard. Been always using the cheap rubber dome boards that are included with computers my whole life. I would also make a good amount of typos when using boards that were more compact. When I got my unicomp. It was pure bliss. Never typed on something that felt this comfortable and this good. It was like from eating McDonald's all your life to getting yourself a full steak dinner.
Sit down with a gin and tonic, make yourself comfortable and listen to a long rambling video about a keyboard - genuinely enjoy watching your videos and listening to your comments. Keep it up.
I rescued a couple of model M's when they were being thrown out at my place of work around 2006. I still use one daily (manufactured 1995-06-17). It's survived a number of my PC's... No detachable cable though. On the previous one I needed a PS/2 - USB adapter as that motherboard didn't have a PS/2 connector. My current motherboard conveniently does. I actually like the extra space above the function keys, it's where I store all sorts of junk like pens, scredrivers, screws, spare jumpers (don't really need those anymore), etc. The raised edge prevents that junk from sliding into the keys themselves, perfect. Of course a Euro symbol won't have appeared before 2001.
Just wanted to add, that yes, Unicomp does offer their keycaps in the removable 2 parts. When ordering, you would need to add into the notes, or contact customer service first, that your want your keycaps in the 2 part configuration. Otherwise, it is the default 1 part.
I've got the Unicomp PC 122 board, and it's been really nice. It was my first mechanical keyboard, and I very much like it. Been annoying my family with the gunshot-loud keystrokes for years now.
I have two Model M keyboards. I was very fortunate to purchase them from a computer recycling depot for $5 each about 15 years ago. One made in the USA in 1991 has the grey label on the left, and the other made in Mexico in 1993 has the blue label on the left. Clearly, the people who were recycling these keyboards did not understand the value of IBM keyboards. I have often wondered about Unicomp keyboads, and I am happy to see they have retooled and have improved their product. I now know that I can order replacement keys for my spare keyboard which is missing a couple of key covers. Both keyboards still work well even though they are 30 and 32 years old. IBM just made such good keyboads and they were very expensive when new. I noticed someone commented on the ModelFKeyboard being produced today. It looks like a fantastic keyboard, and might be worth the cost. Thanks for the informative review of the New Model M.
I am just getting into mechanical keyboards, and this seemingly has everything I needed to know about the 1993 model M I bought for a friend. Thanks for all the background!
I finally managed to get a Unicomp M. (Production Date: December 4, 2023). I also have my 86 M and my 85 M122 as references, and you are correct that the quality of the Unicomp M vs. the original mid 80s square badges is massive. If I didn't know about the IBM M from the mid 80s, I would say that the Unicomp was a good work keyboard, but then you get actual IBM M's, and the differences are just massive. the build quality, the key feel, the sounds, the thicker materials in the original M's, it gives a bit more of a typewriter feel rather than typing in an echo chamber. Have you ever thought of comparing the M to an F to see the quality differences between the 86m and say, an F XT? Thanks! and great review, definitely a worthwhile watch.
Blue LED's operate at a bit higher voltage than Green or Amber ones, so if you want to change out the LED's you may have to install some new resistors in series with the new LEDs to bring the voltage into the right range. (The forward voltage drop across the LED is constant, set by the LED itself, so what will happen is that the LED will draw more current.)
I have been using mine nonstop for a year now and I don't plan on switching to another keyboard. The typing experience is amazing but I also game on it as well and it's not a problem either because I find the heavier feel and deeper travel a lot more comfortable than the ultra light and sensitive switches you find on gaming keyboards. It does have 2 key rollover but it also has anti-ghosting so I can press up to 4 keys or more but I don't know if this is only applies to the PS/2 version since that's the version I have. The only negative I can say are the lack of multimedia keys since I heavily rely on those but I worked around this by setting them up as shortcuts.
Nice keyboard. I have a 101-key classic from 2011 that I've used daily since I bought it. I dearly love the thing and am glad to hear that Unicomp has improved upon it with the new model.
I bought the Classic 101 March 2021 and now September 2023. Used a few times and was put into storage. Recently rediscovered and noticed "P" key was acting erratic requiring two or three taps to make contact. Contacted Unicomp and was given RMA but would cost $48.00 plus $16 shipping. After doing my own disassembly I found all but 6 plastic rivet heads were broken off. Unicomp claims this issue was resolved before I purchased in 2021. I would not advise purchasing from Unicomp based on my experience.
16:50 You are describing doubleshot keycaps with each colour a different plastic all way through, so cant rub off. Dye Sub (sublimated) is a chemical process where the top layer of plastic is altered chemically to alter its colour. They can rub off depending on its quality and usage. So dye_sub is subpar than doubledhot when it comes to longevity but is superior in producing wider variety of designs. Double shots require different tooling to even chage the font whereas dyesubs produce keycaps with images.
Excellent tear down! Had that vid in an open tab for some days, because initially I thought meh over 50 minutes, but after watching it till the end it felt like max 15minutes 👍
With the special functions on Mac keyboards, those are handled at the hardware level in the keyboard from what I’ve been told (even on Mac keyboards), rather than Mac OS seeing that you pressed F4 or whatever and recognising it needs to do XYZ (i think official apple keyboards have ways that the OS can tell the keyboard “default to F1, F2, F3, etc…” or “default to special functions”) So on a keyboard like this, those keys will always function as F1, F2, F3, etc…
I haven’t touched a model m for many years but can remember the satisfying feeling of pressing the key or grabbing onto that nice sloped bit on the side oh and DOS!!!!
DO NOT throw away a trashed original Model M you can send it to Unicomp for refurbishing. Or even do it yourself if you're up to it because they will sell you the parts. Even if you aren't interested in fixing it for god's sake don't just throw it away someone will take it and fix it.
I've had the same mx blues for 7 years now and I want something else, I grew up using an IBM keyboards and eventually made my way to this vid, I will import one in my language in january :)
Keep an eye out for Vortex keyboards, they have a modern mechanical version of the old IBM pcjr keyboard and are working on a model m, first there's going to be an aluminum one but I think they're planning on a plastic version after. I've pre ordered the aluminum one but there are lots of delays. I have a pc68 though and it works well so I'm still excited.
When you said "back when this was released mice weren't a thing" I was expecting a story about how there were no Mice in Scotland or something and you only started to allow them again in the 90's with the Rodent Return Articles or something. "Yep just like St. Patrick banished Snakes from Ireland, Rob Roy actually Drove all the Mice out of Scotland. Of course not many people know as it's pretty far down his CV"
Oh my. Yeah, after reading your comment, I imagined reading an illustrated novel that would have a plot like what you expected, but I'm probably just imagining a cross between 'Adventuremice' and 'Geronimo Stilton'.
I’m old enough to remember all three of those keyboards I have used all three of those keyboards, and the one I preferred was actually the one in the middle
On the LED colour, my New Model M, which was manufactured on 2023-05-01, has the bright blue LEDs. I personally do not mind them, but this is due to the bright area being just outside of where I sit at my desktop. Heck, I even set the Scroll Lock LED up as a disk activity light, as Scroll Lock isn't used on Linux and this was very easy to set up. It did come with a broken controller module (missing pullups), I've been send a new one, if that one contains green LEDs I'll update this comment.
Update on this, the replacement controller board I received is the old design, as seen in the video here. It also has blue indicator LEDs, these being a bit brighter than those on the new design. Another difference is that the new controller has the LEDs placed on a small spacer, which leads to worse diffusion.
Not quite as good as the original IBM Model M, but much improved from their previous Model M (for one thing they went back to a thicker steel backplate). This new one is similar to the 90's Lexmark models. I would say it's "good enough". Also as far as the blemishes on the back where the internal supports are, even my IBM original PVC shell Model M has that. Part of the reason the newer model M's aren't quite as nice is they can't use the original PVC plastic for the shells anymore due to environmental regulations.
I bought one of these to compare with my old Northgate keyboard. I bought my Northgate back in the late 90s. I'm still using my Northgate but I did send it away for cleaning and to repair a couple of keys about 10 years ago. I bought my Unicomp keyboard something before 2010. If the keys had just a slightly shorter key travel distance I would use it instead of my Northgate keyboard. I like to keep a couple of pens on the that extra along the top edge of the keyboard.
Considering you seem to be a Model M aficionado, I'm surprised you haven't sent them off to be bolt-modded. I tried a Classic myself, but couldn't get over the limitations of the matrix when gaming. How's the New Model M? Does it have the improved matrix of the mini-M, or is it still the old matrix?
I Bought two Ultra Classics, and they both failed within a year; random USB disconnections, keys stopped working, etc. I tossed out the first one, as it straghit up stopped working at all, but the second one I still have, because it still partly works and I have this wild idea that I might actually be able to repair it someday. In the meantime my Corsair K70 has lasted 8 years, though.
I have an Classic and a new model M and I too noticed that the springy "twang" is missing in the new. Maybe it's just a matter of the keyboard not being broken in? However, when I put on my headphones and block out the sound, the new Model M feels great to type on, better than the old one.
Yeah, I found that the keyboards that I have with more broken rivets had more of a twang than the ones with most of their rivets intact. In my case, the Unicomp Classic definitely has the most noticeable "twang" and also the most broken rivets so I suspect it's more of a "wear" thing rather than something that's specifically missing from the new one.
A few keys on my New Model M do twang, but this is only about 5%, the rest not having this sound. But it's not loud in my case, I also happen to like the slight variance in sound my board has. Keyfeel is consistent though, aside from a few scratchy modifiers.
I used them as gaming keyboards and like them, personally. Maybe the rollover problem is a problem, but I never ran into it. But I personally have no interest in any keys other than bucking spring.
I was thinking about getting a Classic but decided against it. If it comes damaged, you have to pay shipping back to them on a 6lb/7lb keyboard after paying shipping to receive it plus a $25 repair fee and a couple of other things I can't remember. If they made the Classic with the thicker original metal plate, had screws instead of rivets and was built to the quality standards of the New Model M, I'd think about it. But paying $120+ for a keyboard just to send it back and spend the same amount on repairs you might as well buy a new one.
time to get a handbuild but also new ModelFKeyboard either in model M layout, SSK m, the super small case model M or the Spring one before model F and M. It is way better I assume and shown on YT by a few channels shows it is way better .
They look so fucking cool. I want this in either Green or Blue, but it does cost a lot. I think it'll be worth it, but there as so many mixed reviews about the Unicomp Model M for gaming. Some people say that it works fine, and others say it doesn't work well and it's best to look elsewhere. Im not a pro or anything, I just want to play casually but I want to know if it is compatible
I'm not a gamer personally but as far as I know, these aren't really the best for gaming. On most keyboards the key will actuate and deactuate at around the same point in the keystroke. This makes it easy to rapidly trigger a key by moving it up and down around this actuation point rather than needing to press the key all the way down and let it lift all the way back up again. On a Model M you need to press the key relatively far down for it to trigger and then lift the key up pretty far for it to deactuate so that you can trigger it again. This is fine for typing but not ideal for gaming where rapid, repeated key presses are commonplace.
I have one of the older model m's and just now purchased the new model M from Unicomp because this one has started to cut in an out with a single beep and I have to unplug and replug it back in to get it working again. I have been gaming with this old model m since 2018 and had 0 issues with key presses. I would assume that if they follow the same philosophy the new model M should be more than enough for gaming needs. I am not a fan of the overpriced mechanical keyboards of modern times with all the LED's so I jumped at the chance to purchase the new Model M. Once it is delivered ill let you know how it fares in my gaming ventures.
Alright, so I got the New model M. I have to agree with Cameron. This may have nothing to do with a fully functioning New model M, but the one I got has a very loose spacebar spring, making it so you have to press it down harder than I did on my original now dead Model M. And I really do not like having to immediately troubleshoot something I bought brand new. I will be returning this keyboard as I did indeed buy it for gaming purposes. but it even fails in the typing role since the poor QA and packaging protections makes it highly likely you will receive a broken product. No doubt the product I received was chucked around and had improper protection allowing the spacebar to be damaged in some way. Sad that a company claims the quality of a well built keyboard but does nothing to ensure that the experience of the product is consistent. A real disappointment forcing me to go with a more modern mechanical keyboard. Ill get my original Model M refurbished one day but for now ill live in the present. :(
Loved my Unicomp. Bought mine in 2015 or so. Unfortunately mine gave me trouble. Went in once about a year later for intermittent specific keycap failure. It was fixed and the same issue happened again in about the same time frame. A bit disappointing considering I bought a replacement Chinese mechanical keyboard for $40 that never gave me issues. I babied the board also, Guess i was just unlucky.
I bought three of these IBM model M keyboards at a thrift shop last year. I was in a hurry that day, brought them in my house and added them to my pile of gear to test and clean but thats the last time I remember seeing them! Frustrating as heck!!!
I tested my New Model M using the (most likely inconclusive) rollover test, and you can effectively get 6-key rollover :) Still, it's not N, but since the keyboard is from a time when we didn't need that many keys at once (we only have 10 fingers after all)....
I had an original Model M, I also have the white Unicomp Classic 101 as my everyday work keyboard. However there is a company, modelfkeyboards, which makes a modern version of the even better Model F Keyboard. The new model F blows the classic and genuine model M out of the water. It was a bit pricey though and the delivery time was a bit longer than I would have liked.
I bought one encouraging US manufacturer...After one month electronic partially failed. I had to pay 57 $ for return shipping EVEN under warranty (not counting shipping cost to send the keyboard). I got a keyboard after waiting 2 months and electronic failed again. There is plenty of mechanic keyboard on the market. I bought a DAS keyboard and it is working now without a hitch. Sorry Unicomp never again.
I bought one..less than a year after it was broken..quality is way down.....customer service is terrible..you have to pay for shipping even during warranty...stay away. Thre is plenty of very good alternative. I have now a DAS keyboard.
Planning videos isn't my strong suit! With this keyboard I felt it was important to put it in context for people who don't know much about the Model M. People who already know about the history could skip to the unboxing using the chapter markers.
I have had two Unicomp keyboards in last 12 years. I gave away my first, and second had a few keys die, because I was a dumbass in extreme cleaning. I recently "caved" and a new fangled new cherry switch, with cool leds, that make little pretty designs in light all the time. I have realized this is stupid horseshit, and is only distracting, and it really illuminates dirt, dust, hair, bougers, and potato chips.... of course all keyboards have this, but I am not fond of seeing them in perfect illuminated fashion everytime i search for the god damn $ key. Who can remember where that fucker is? Short story long, I'm ordering my third.
I kind of do like LED on keyboards, but only when they are functional and shine well through the keycaps. I have a cheap one of 40 bucks and it even has built in dimming setting for the lights if i want them less blinding at night or even off. I dislike the the light settings that are constantly flashing so i keep mine at a static color of purple. On occasion i make an exception for the “christmas lights” settings where the keys randomly slowly change color like a Christmas tree. The only change i’d like with my keyboard is maybe replacing the nav cluster with a numpad. On the nav cluster, i only use the del key so its just wasted space to me.
If youre doing a video where youre presenting with your hands, do people a favor and groom your finger nails, man. Cut them things, unless youre a flamenco guitarist.
do not get this keyboard. as mentioned this was made after the membrane change. so basically its either a nostogia buy imitating the real thing, or its a monument to failure..either way its junk that will be lucky to last the year. while a real ibm-m you should be able to hand down to your descendants...i know people that already got one from his parent who plans on giving it to their kid one day...this is not that.
Yes, it's not an original IBM Model M, but your claims about reliability are completely without any sort of proof and are pure speculation. The overall design is basically the same, they still have dye sub keycaps which have excellent durability and the new tooling likely produces more durable results than they were getting on the Unicomp Classics. They are still made based on original IBM designs and patents by the company that have been making these keyboards for the last couple of decades. Additionally, while Model Ms are heralded as beacons of reliability, they aren't necessarily anything special, especially with the plastic rivets that break off over time requiring bolt modding. Sure it's a nice idea to be able to pass something down to descendants, but it's not something that really influences me buying a keyboard - I'll probably spill a coffee through it long before then! And lets face it, in 50+ years time, I doubt a PS/2 or even a USB keyboard with this layout is likely going to be remotely relevant. If you want an original Model M, sure, go for it, but for people who want a bucking spring keyboard with Windows keys and a native USB interface, this is an ideal option. Also, note that I have multiple original Model Ms including the square badge which is regarded as one of the best model Ms. I have used these original keyboards full time at various points over the years, yet I'm still using the new model as a daily driver for it's smaller size, more consistent feel due to less wear, windows keys and native USB.
@@camerongray1515 im still using a unicomp right now after getting it back from being repaired. only been 2 months and its out again and it started falling apart originally after about 6 months. as soon as the real model m gets here this thing is going in the trash.
@@camerongray1515 heck i dont even have to touch the keyboard, if i tap on my desk it will type for me lol. ive had $30 keyboards that were better then this lump...i do like the feed back of the keys, but the membrane is an early membrane design. which means its the worst of the worst man.
@@operator9858 That's unfortunate for sure but could just be bad luck, is this a Unicomp Classic/Ultra classic or a "New Model M" such as the one I showed here? The Classic models were definitely experiencing quality issues due to the old tooling which is what prompted them to invest in new tooling and release the model shown here. What sort of issues are you having?
@@camerongray1515 mostly with the spacebar, but sometimes i get random characters as well, but i often wonder if this isnt somehow related back to the original spacebar problem somehow. got it back was good for a little while but then you look away and you have 10 pages of spaces on whatever you were doing or every word has double and triple spacing in what you are typing. somedays its tolerable, other days its insane...
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Buy from Unicomp: www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/NEW_M
Buy from The Keyboard Company: www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/new-model-m-keyboards-black-with-white-and-gray-keys-usb.asp
Buy the Wera 5.5mm Nut Spinner from Amazon (Affiliate):
- UK: amzn.to/3J7PNyV
- US: amzn.to/3J6Aarh
Buy the FIlco Key Puller from Amazon (Affiliate):
- UK: amzn.to/3D1LqS7
- US: amzn.to/3Dq14Hd
I actually have this keyboard. Been always using the cheap rubber dome boards that are included with computers my whole life. I would also make a good amount of typos when using boards that were more compact. When I got my unicomp. It was pure bliss. Never typed on something that felt this comfortable and this good. It was like from eating McDonald's all your life to getting yourself a full steak dinner.
Sit down with a gin and tonic, make yourself comfortable and listen to a long rambling video about a keyboard - genuinely enjoy watching your videos and listening to your comments. Keep it up.
You're making me thirsty. I love gin&tonics but I haven't had one in nearly a year.
@happycamper6352 I only just started drinking G&T. I recommend Gin from Castle & Key with Elderflower tonic syrup and soda water
Never trust anyone that drinks gin by choice folks
@@Earthwormjimmrude - lol
I rescued a couple of model M's when they were being thrown out at my place of work around 2006. I still use one daily (manufactured 1995-06-17). It's survived a number of my PC's... No detachable cable though. On the previous one I needed a PS/2 - USB adapter as that motherboard didn't have a PS/2 connector. My current motherboard conveniently does.
I actually like the extra space above the function keys, it's where I store all sorts of junk like pens, scredrivers, screws, spare jumpers (don't really need those anymore), etc. The raised edge prevents that junk from sliding into the keys themselves, perfect.
Of course a Euro symbol won't have appeared before 2001.
Just wanted to add, that yes, Unicomp does offer their keycaps in the removable 2 parts. When ordering, you would need to add into the notes, or contact customer service first, that your want your keycaps in the 2 part configuration. Otherwise, it is the default 1 part.
I've got the Unicomp PC 122 board, and it's been really nice. It was my first mechanical keyboard, and I very much like it. Been annoying my family with the gunshot-loud keystrokes for years now.
I have two Model M keyboards. I was very fortunate to purchase them from a computer recycling depot for $5 each about 15 years ago. One made in the USA in 1991 has the grey label on the left, and the other made in Mexico in 1993 has the blue label on the left. Clearly, the people who were recycling these keyboards did not understand the value of IBM keyboards. I have often wondered about Unicomp keyboads, and I am happy to see they have retooled and have improved their product. I now know that I can order replacement keys for my spare keyboard which is missing a couple of key covers. Both keyboards still work well even though they are 30 and 32 years old. IBM just made such good keyboads and they were very expensive when new. I noticed someone commented on the ModelFKeyboard being produced today. It looks like a fantastic keyboard, and might be worth the cost. Thanks for the informative review of the New Model M.
you can buy "dim stickers" that basically tint the LEDs and make them less bright. I use them all the time.
I am just getting into mechanical keyboards, and this seemingly has everything I needed to know about the 1993 model M I bought for a friend. Thanks for all the background!
So glad I spoiled myself with one of these a year ago for my birthday. Typing on it every day is pure bliss and should be for a very long time!
That's a terminal model m. The num/caps/scroll lock would be presented on the screen, so the lights weren't needed on the keybaord itself.
Excellent review, very complete. I think you've covered just about everything anyone could want to know about this new beauty.
I finally managed to get a Unicomp M. (Production Date: December 4, 2023). I also have my 86 M and my 85 M122 as references, and you are correct that the quality of the Unicomp M vs. the original mid 80s square badges is massive. If I didn't know about the IBM M from the mid 80s, I would say that the Unicomp was a good work keyboard, but then you get actual IBM M's, and the differences are just massive. the build quality, the key feel, the sounds, the thicker materials in the original M's, it gives a bit more of a typewriter feel rather than typing in an echo chamber.
Have you ever thought of comparing the M to an F to see the quality differences between the 86m and say, an F XT?
Thanks! and great review, definitely a worthwhile watch.
Blue LED's operate at a bit higher voltage than Green or Amber ones, so if you want to change out the LED's you may have to install some new resistors in series with the new LEDs to bring the voltage into the right range. (The forward voltage drop across the LED is constant, set by the LED itself, so what will happen is that the LED will draw more current.)
I have been using mine nonstop for a year now and I don't plan on switching to another keyboard. The typing experience is amazing but I also game on it as well and it's not a problem either because I find the heavier feel and deeper travel a lot more comfortable than the ultra light and sensitive switches you find on gaming keyboards. It does have 2 key rollover but it also has anti-ghosting so I can press up to 4 keys or more but I don't know if this is only applies to the PS/2 version since that's the version I have. The only negative I can say are the lack of multimedia keys since I heavily rely on those but I worked around this by setting them up as shortcuts.
Nice keyboard. I have a 101-key classic from 2011 that I've used daily since I bought it. I dearly love the thing and am glad to hear that Unicomp has improved upon it with the new model.
I bought the Classic 101 March 2021 and now September 2023. Used a few times and was put into storage. Recently rediscovered and noticed "P" key was acting erratic requiring two or three taps to make contact. Contacted Unicomp and was given RMA but would cost $48.00 plus $16 shipping. After doing my own disassembly I found all but 6 plastic rivet heads were broken off. Unicomp claims this issue was resolved before I purchased in 2021. I would not advise purchasing from Unicomp based on my experience.
Same for me...
16:50 You are describing doubleshot keycaps with each colour a different plastic all way through, so cant rub off.
Dye Sub (sublimated) is a chemical process where the top layer of plastic is altered chemically to alter its colour. They can rub off depending on its quality and usage.
So dye_sub is subpar than doubledhot when it comes to longevity but is superior in producing wider variety of designs. Double shots require different tooling to even chage the font whereas dyesubs produce keycaps with images.
Excellent tear down! Had that vid in an open tab for some days, because initially I thought meh over 50 minutes, but after watching it till the end it felt like max 15minutes 👍
With the special functions on Mac keyboards, those are handled at the hardware level in the keyboard from what I’ve been told (even on Mac keyboards), rather than Mac OS seeing that you pressed F4 or whatever and recognising it needs to do XYZ (i think official apple keyboards have ways that the OS can tell the keyboard “default to F1, F2, F3, etc…” or “default to special functions”)
So on a keyboard like this, those keys will always function as F1, F2, F3, etc…
Thank you for a great, comprehensive video, Cameron!
I haven’t touched a model m for many years but can remember the satisfying feeling of pressing the key or grabbing onto that nice sloped bit on the side oh and DOS!!!!
DO NOT throw away a trashed original Model M you can send it to Unicomp for refurbishing. Or even do it yourself if you're up to it because they will sell you the parts. Even if you aren't interested in fixing it for god's sake don't just throw it away someone will take it and fix it.
Thank you for the heads up
I've had the same mx blues for 7 years now and I want something else, I grew up using an IBM keyboards and eventually made my way to this vid, I will import one in my language in january :)
Ohhhhhhh ive been looking for this keyboard for years. The feel and sound were like BLISS.
I am just in love with the old IBM keyboards in terms of the plastic frame they have I'd love to have a modern keyboard with plastic frame like that.
Keep an eye out for Vortex keyboards, they have a modern mechanical version of the old IBM pcjr keyboard and are working on a model m, first there's going to be an aluminum one but I think they're planning on a plastic version after. I've pre ordered the aluminum one but there are lots of delays.
I have a pc68 though and it works well so I'm still excited.
When you said "back when this was released mice weren't a thing" I was expecting a story about how there were no Mice in Scotland or something and you only started to allow them again in the 90's with the Rodent Return Articles or something. "Yep just like St. Patrick banished Snakes from Ireland, Rob Roy actually Drove all the Mice out of Scotland. Of course not many people know as it's pretty far down his CV"
Oh my. Yeah, after reading your comment, I imagined reading an illustrated novel that would have a plot like what you expected, but I'm probably just imagining a cross between 'Adventuremice' and 'Geronimo Stilton'.
I have a 1986 1390120 as well. Got it bolt modded. Has no deck flex. The bolts effectively get rid of the flex.
By far the best video I've seen about this keyboard! THANK YOU! :)
That seems nice, but I like the classic beige with two tone keycaps and no Windows key.
I’m old enough to remember all three of those keyboards I have used all three of those keyboards, and the one I preferred was actually the one in the middle
I switch between this keyboard and a Cherry Blue keyboard. I love this one though. Its typing experience is amazing.
On the LED colour, my New Model M, which was manufactured on 2023-05-01, has the bright blue LEDs.
I personally do not mind them, but this is due to the bright area being just outside of where I sit at my desktop.
Heck, I even set the Scroll Lock LED up as a disk activity light, as Scroll Lock isn't used on Linux and this was very easy to set up.
It did come with a broken controller module (missing pullups), I've been send a new one, if that one contains green LEDs I'll update this comment.
Update on this, the replacement controller board I received is the old design, as seen in the video here.
It also has blue indicator LEDs, these being a bit brighter than those on the new design.
Another difference is that the new controller has the LEDs placed on a small spacer, which leads to worse diffusion.
Not quite as good as the original IBM Model M, but much improved from their previous Model M (for one thing they went back to a thicker steel backplate). This new one is similar to the 90's Lexmark models. I would say it's "good enough". Also as far as the blemishes on the back where the internal supports are, even my IBM original PVC shell Model M has that. Part of the reason the newer model M's aren't quite as nice is they can't use the original PVC plastic for the shells anymore due to environmental regulations.
Great video review!
How is the new keyboard going? Is it good for working like typing, editting on Adobe, and quite gaming in the long run ?
I bought one of these to compare with my old Northgate keyboard. I bought my Northgate back in the late 90s. I'm still using my Northgate but I did send it away for cleaning and to repair a couple of keys about 10 years ago. I bought my Unicomp keyboard something before 2010. If the keys had just a slightly shorter key travel distance I would use it instead of my Northgate keyboard.
I like to keep a couple of pens on the that extra along the top edge of the keyboard.
Considering you seem to be a Model M aficionado, I'm surprised you haven't sent them off to be bolt-modded.
I tried a Classic myself, but couldn't get over the limitations of the matrix when gaming. How's the New Model M? Does it have the improved matrix of the mini-M, or is it still the old matrix?
I Bought two Ultra Classics, and they both failed within a year; random USB disconnections, keys stopped working, etc. I tossed out the first one, as it straghit up stopped working at all, but the second one I still have, because it still partly works and I have this wild idea that I might actually be able to repair it someday. In the meantime my Corsair K70 has lasted 8 years, though.
There USB controller has always been problematic. How hard could it be to fix it…
@@soldiersvejk2053 Easy to fix. i use a Logitech USB Extension Cable. 😀
Unfortunate that they don't make the new version in the same colour as the original.
It's so funny how im on vacation in Kentucky and suddenly got interested in this keyboard as im staying 2 blocks away from Unicomp.
I have an Classic and a new model M and I too noticed that the springy "twang" is missing in the new. Maybe it's just a matter of the keyboard not being broken in? However, when I put on my headphones and block out the sound, the new Model M feels great to type on, better than the old one.
that might have to do with how old the model m you have is? idk i could be wrong but older keyboards do age if i recall correctly
Yeah, I found that the keyboards that I have with more broken rivets had more of a twang than the ones with most of their rivets intact. In my case, the Unicomp Classic definitely has the most noticeable "twang" and also the most broken rivets so I suspect it's more of a "wear" thing rather than something that's specifically missing from the new one.
A few keys on my New Model M do twang, but this is only about 5%, the rest not having this sound.
But it's not loud in my case, I also happen to like the slight variance in sound my board has.
Keyfeel is consistent though, aside from a few scratchy modifiers.
I have asked Unicomp for the problem of LED color and they said only the blue LEDs will be installed for the new manufactured keyboards.
An excelente review. Thank you!
excellent review bro
40:19 - what happens if most of these break off? I have a 2020 Model M myself and I'm wondering if I should bolt mod it someday in the future.
I just wish they came in Grey with green LEDs
Great video, recently got my hands on one of Unicomp's Model M Minis, such a pleasure to type on.
Hey Cameron,
Any update on bolting the unicomp or the 86 m? Do a follow up!!
5:43
That's a bunch of rivets that have given up making that ratlting noise. Would you consider bolt modding it so that the flex doesn't get worse?
I used them as gaming keyboards and like them, personally. Maybe the rollover problem is a problem, but I never ran into it. But I personally have no interest in any keys other than bucking spring.
I was thinking about getting a Classic but decided against it. If it comes damaged, you have to pay shipping back to them on a 6lb/7lb keyboard after paying shipping to receive it plus a $25 repair fee and a couple of other things I can't remember.
If they made the Classic with the thicker original metal plate, had screws instead of rivets and was built to the quality standards of the New Model M, I'd think about it. But paying $120+ for a keyboard just to send it back and spend the same amount on repairs you might as well buy a new one.
time to get a handbuild but also new ModelFKeyboard either in model M layout, SSK m, the super small case model M or the Spring one before model F and M. It is way better I assume and shown on YT by a few channels shows it is way better .
They look so fucking cool. I want this in either Green or Blue, but it does cost a lot. I think it'll be worth it, but there as so many mixed reviews about the Unicomp Model M for gaming. Some people say that it works fine, and others say it doesn't work well and it's best to look elsewhere. Im not a pro or anything, I just want to play casually but I want to know if it is compatible
I'm not a gamer personally but as far as I know, these aren't really the best for gaming. On most keyboards the key will actuate and deactuate at around the same point in the keystroke. This makes it easy to rapidly trigger a key by moving it up and down around this actuation point rather than needing to press the key all the way down and let it lift all the way back up again. On a Model M you need to press the key relatively far down for it to trigger and then lift the key up pretty far for it to deactuate so that you can trigger it again. This is fine for typing but not ideal for gaming where rapid, repeated key presses are commonplace.
I have one of the older model m's and just now purchased the new model M from Unicomp because this one has started to cut in an out with a single beep and I have to unplug and replug it back in to get it working again. I have been gaming with this old model m since 2018 and had 0 issues with key presses. I would assume that if they follow the same philosophy the new model M should be more than enough for gaming needs. I am not a fan of the overpriced mechanical keyboards of modern times with all the LED's so I jumped at the chance to purchase the new Model M. Once it is delivered ill let you know how it fares in my gaming ventures.
Alright, so I got the New model M. I have to agree with Cameron. This may have nothing to do with a fully functioning New model M, but the one I got has a very loose spacebar spring, making it so you have to press it down harder than I did on my original now dead Model M. And I really do not like having to immediately troubleshoot something I bought brand new. I will be returning this keyboard as I did indeed buy it for gaming purposes. but it even fails in the typing role since the poor QA and packaging protections makes it highly likely you will receive a broken product. No doubt the product I received was chucked around and had improper protection allowing the spacebar to be damaged in some way. Sad that a company claims the quality of a well built keyboard but does nothing to ensure that the experience of the product is consistent. A real disappointment forcing me to go with a more modern mechanical keyboard. Ill get my original Model M refurbished one day but for now ill live in the present. :(
if they sold it with a solenoid, or conversion was straightforward, I'd be tempted.
7:40
You can hear the little plastic rivets go through the case.
Loved my Unicomp. Bought mine in 2015 or so. Unfortunately mine gave me trouble. Went in once about a year later for intermittent specific keycap failure. It was fixed and the same issue happened again in about the same time frame. A bit disappointing considering I bought a replacement Chinese mechanical keyboard for $40 that never gave me issues. I babied the board also, Guess i was just unlucky.
Isn't there an issue with the controllers on these new Unicomp Model M's?
I believe there was an easy fix, like using a usb extension cable. They will exchange if there are issues
The colors are better on original, can you switch the keycaps?
my 1987 IBM died last month and i bought a blue mechanical keyboard.. i hate it.. so i just found this tonight and can't wait till it gets here
I got my UniComp Model M in 2011. I still use it every day and would get another should this break.
I bought three of these IBM model M keyboards at a thrift shop last year. I was in a hurry that day, brought them in my house and added them to my pile of gear to test and clean but thats the last time I remember seeing them! Frustrating as heck!!!
I tested my New Model M using the (most likely inconclusive) rollover test, and you can effectively get 6-key rollover :) Still, it's not N, but since the keyboard is from a time when we didn't need that many keys at once (we only have 10 fingers after all)....
Their USB controller seems to have some problems. My first one will automatically disconnect (on different PCs). Had to get an exchange.
Easy to fix. i use a Logitech USB Extension Cable. 😀
I had an original Model M, I also have the white Unicomp Classic 101 as my everyday work keyboard. However there is a company, modelfkeyboards, which makes a modern version of the even better Model F Keyboard. The new model F blows the classic and genuine model M out of the water. It was a bit pricey though and the delivery time was a bit longer than I would have liked.
Do you ship to Lima Peru?
I bought one encouraging US manufacturer...After one month electronic partially failed. I had to pay 57 $ for return shipping EVEN under warranty (not counting shipping cost to send the keyboard). I got a keyboard after waiting 2 months and electronic failed again. There is plenty of mechanic keyboard on the market. I bought a DAS keyboard and it is working now without a hitch.
Sorry Unicomp never again.
An hour video, though.
Too bad it doesn’t come in Mac configuration
You can buy the 104 version and it works alright with a mac book pro after tweaking some of the configurations.
I bought one..less than a year after it was broken..quality is way down.....customer service is terrible..you have to pay for shipping even during warranty...stay away. Thre is plenty of very good alternative. I have now a DAS keyboard.
Excellent product review and tutorial. Thanks.
10 minutes into the video, you eventually open the box 😂😂😂
Planning videos isn't my strong suit! With this keyboard I felt it was important to put it in context for people who don't know much about the Model M. People who already know about the history could skip to the unboxing using the chapter markers.
Are you new here? 😜
I have had two Unicomp keyboards in last 12 years. I gave away my first, and second had a few keys die, because I was a dumbass in extreme cleaning.
I recently "caved" and a new fangled new cherry switch, with cool leds, that make little pretty designs in light all the time.
I have realized this is stupid horseshit, and is only distracting, and it really illuminates dirt, dust, hair, bougers, and potato chips.... of course all keyboards have this, but I am not fond of seeing them in perfect illuminated fashion everytime i search for the god damn $ key. Who can remember where that fucker is?
Short story long, I'm ordering my third.
I kind of do like LED on keyboards, but only when they are functional and shine well through the keycaps. I have a cheap one of 40 bucks and it even has built in dimming setting for the lights if i want them less blinding at night or even off. I dislike the the light settings that are constantly flashing so i keep mine at a static color of purple. On occasion i make an exception for the “christmas lights” settings where the keys randomly slowly change color like a Christmas tree.
The only change i’d like with my keyboard is maybe replacing the nav cluster with a numpad. On the nav cluster, i only use the del key so its just wasted space to me.
If youre doing a video where youre presenting with your hands, do people a favor and groom your finger nails, man. Cut them things, unless youre a flamenco guitarist.
do not get this keyboard. as mentioned this was made after the membrane change. so basically its either a nostogia buy imitating the real thing, or its a monument to failure..either way its junk that will be lucky to last the year. while a real ibm-m you should be able to hand down to your descendants...i know people that already got one from his parent who plans on giving it to their kid one day...this is not that.
Yes, it's not an original IBM Model M, but your claims about reliability are completely without any sort of proof and are pure speculation. The overall design is basically the same, they still have dye sub keycaps which have excellent durability and the new tooling likely produces more durable results than they were getting on the Unicomp Classics. They are still made based on original IBM designs and patents by the company that have been making these keyboards for the last couple of decades. Additionally, while Model Ms are heralded as beacons of reliability, they aren't necessarily anything special, especially with the plastic rivets that break off over time requiring bolt modding.
Sure it's a nice idea to be able to pass something down to descendants, but it's not something that really influences me buying a keyboard - I'll probably spill a coffee through it long before then! And lets face it, in 50+ years time, I doubt a PS/2 or even a USB keyboard with this layout is likely going to be remotely relevant.
If you want an original Model M, sure, go for it, but for people who want a bucking spring keyboard with Windows keys and a native USB interface, this is an ideal option. Also, note that I have multiple original Model Ms including the square badge which is regarded as one of the best model Ms. I have used these original keyboards full time at various points over the years, yet I'm still using the new model as a daily driver for it's smaller size, more consistent feel due to less wear, windows keys and native USB.
@@camerongray1515 im still using a unicomp right now after getting it back from being repaired. only been 2 months and its out again and it started falling apart originally after about 6 months.
as soon as the real model m gets here this thing is going in the trash.
@@camerongray1515 heck i dont even have to touch the keyboard, if i tap on my desk it will type for me lol. ive had $30 keyboards that were better then this lump...i do like the feed back of the keys, but the membrane is an early membrane design. which means its the worst of the worst man.
@@operator9858 That's unfortunate for sure but could just be bad luck, is this a Unicomp Classic/Ultra classic or a "New Model M" such as the one I showed here? The Classic models were definitely experiencing quality issues due to the old tooling which is what prompted them to invest in new tooling and release the model shown here. What sort of issues are you having?
@@camerongray1515 mostly with the spacebar, but sometimes i get random characters as well, but i often wonder if this isnt somehow related back to the original spacebar problem somehow. got it back was good for a little while but then you look away and you have 10 pages of spaces on whatever you were doing or every word has double and triple spacing in what you are typing. somedays its tolerable, other days its insane...
1391401 is the best keyboard ever made