A stuck thermostat will definitely cause overheating, the coolant is not circulating. Glad it wasn't the radiator being clogged. The torn intake hose will cause a vacuum leak & piss off the computer's air/fuel mixture & the idle. Seems like all is tracking. Happy for the Probe! I wonder what an OBD scan would show regarding the check engine light? A 97 should have access. Hard to work on, yes. But that would make saving the car more notable because it's human nature to simply give up on those cars to extinction.
There are tricks to working on these cars. Once you have them figured out they are pretty easy to work on, except for the rust. It is easier for me to access the timing belt and water pump by removing the alternator and power steering belt brackets then remove timing belt and w.p. through RF wheel well. Idle and stalling issues as you correctly guessed are usually caused by vacuum leaks. These cars are really sensitive to vacuum leaks and small ones that dont cause drivability issues can still cause check engine codes. Larger ones, as you saw, cause stalling and fluctuating idle. Pull out the dip stick with the engine on, then the oil cap and you will see what I mean.
Just a logistical comment, It's called Boysenberry! Glad you got it going, the way the video evolved I thought you were going to give up. Glad you fixed the boots even if you used gaffers tape and not duct tape. :)
Love that engine - I had one in my Mazda 626 GT. I now have a 2002 Volvo S80 2.4 - took me less than 1 hr to change water pump, cam belt & tensioner ( didn't even have to remove the engine mount or crank pulley ) :)
This channel deserves more subs. Love the multiple camera angles and setups. Very seamless especially for just being one person doing everything. Love the content!
Brings back awesome memories of my 93 GT. That was the most fun car to drive I've ever owned! But when it got some miles on it, I quickly found out it was a beast to work on, LOL!
You got that probe unbelievably cheap and I know it has its problems and stuff but if you really think of it it's and amazing car for 300 dollars and is worth money in the future
I owned a red 89 GT, a teal 93 GT, and a dark green 97 GT. Bought them all new, so never had to do that kind of maintenance to them. Loved all 3 of them.
Probe veteran here, I got 3 of these in various levels of trims. The V6 timing belt is not engine out but damn is it easy with the engine out. You need to sort the CEL I'm betting on downstream o2s. If it has a Diagnostic port under the hood, use a paperclip to jump TEN and GND and count the flashes, then report back. Im building a 93 GT for track, mine has a KLZE with bolt-ons and Megasquirt and might give your 944 Turbo a run for its money by the time Im done with it. These are very underrated cars and respond well to modification, but I'd keep yours for a daily.
$400 in labor and they neglected to tighten the accessory belt and caused vacuum leaks by breaking your intake? Ouch... Glad to see the car get a second chance though!
Back in '88 I was crazy about the new Probe. I walked up to them when they were parked, and I thought that I would buy one if I won the lotto. Having one of those cars fully restored with some of the 80s accessories like an Oakley decal for the windshield and louvers for the back window would make a for a great car to drive to Radwood.
This ford probe is what got me into your channel and I have to say I really love your content! I hope you continue buying and selling cheap cars! Please more videos on the Ford Probe!
Good to see her get fixed, they're a lot and I mean A LOT faster when they're in the right room range, fun fact they have an obscenely high redline, in fact they tend to still build power up to 10,500 RPM but Mazda tuned the ecu down because yeah we tend to be an irresponsible lot
Just a heads up, the torn intake boot from the air filter housing to the throttle body is considered a visual fail if you get it smog tested in California.
I would recommend a compression and leakdown test, since it overheated so bad. Just to be safe. It's an open deck aluminum block with aluminum heads, they don't like to be overheated. The stalling and power could be the valve covers causing a vacuum leak, I had that issue. Keep it idling and remove the dipstick slightly, mine dropped a ton of rpms when I did that when I had a massive vacuum leak. I would say get a vacuum tester and see how much vacuum it has at idle, mine sits at around 20-22, I'm not sure what "spec" is though. You can also find that torn boot on eBay quite easily, I actually have a pretty new one I purchased maybe 4 years ago that was a direct replacement. When you get to the intake manifold/valve covers, there's going to be a terrible bolt behind the intake manifold, that attaches a set of solenoids to the engine block/intake manifold. I would remove this bolt once you feel it, and throw it in your toolbox. It's unnecessary and makes removal of the intake down the road very difficult. It's gonna be the last bolt you remove more than likely, it's a real pain to get to. I tossed mine at the side of my house with force cause it cost me hours and hours trying to remove it. Anyway, good luck! Thanks for saving it and doing this video series!
I havent bothered with my rear cover leak for that very reason bro and ive had mine 26yrs... lol Ive heard about that Infamous bolt !!.. hopefully, it was straitforward and not to bad a job, that Bolt aside.
Skip741 x Honestly I’m so numb to what’s “Difficult” about working on these cars from doing things SO. MANY. TIMES. Do yourself a favor and replace your cam seals, they’re cheap and easy to replace in just a few minutes, I had one fly out and I lost 3 quarts of oil and nearly lost my engine because of it
Glad you got it fixed. The M.A.P sensor that is in the duct and when air gets into that area the car runs bad. By you using duct tape you made it sealed system again hence it works like it should. Great job on it buddy. I love the color and the car. Enjoy it and make more videos 👍👍
The oil change was the only easy thing to do really on this car engine wise. The air filter was very tight to get in and out of the air box. It's best to unhook the clamp and hose off of the throttle body first. I'm glad you got it going. My '96 did not have that cover over the oil pan area etc. The flex pipe from the exhaust is so close to the oil filter that one time I burned the inside of my wrist because I touched it when doing the oil filter by accident. My skin turned white hot and then red. I still barely have the scar and it's crazy because it is the shape of Australia. LOL. Also your Probe should be OBDII. I'd be interested to see what the check engine light shows on a code reader. I'm sure you have one. Otherwise most of the auto parts stores will hook one up for you for free. It may have just thrown a code and not cleared yet when you maf sensor was getting bad air fuel readings before you taped up the hose.
I agree with ur diagnosis.. he Needs to clear the codes tough... I'd take a reading 1st just to see if it Was the air leak...then clear it and drive alittle, check again and see what u got.
Ethan: you might be able to get a bit more oomph out of it by putting some injector cleaner in the tank. I put some in my mom's old van and it definitely helped.
I had a 93 I thought the same thing and actually that car is relatively easy to work on but you have to read the book and you have to do the moves as they are instructed in the book
Finally subbed after enjoying all the vids I’ve watched so far. What’s so funny is the Ford Duratec V6 which came after this engine has the same problem as far as difficulty/expense related to changing a water pump. Good luck with the car though!
DOOD those Probe GT's are wicked fun. I still have one..and have had 3 others before this one. Mines got a short throw shifter..Full open exhaust..headers..test pipe..Borla exhaust..Cold air intake..and I drive the F out of it still U wont regret putting all those things I mentioned on it..Njoy man..Highly under rated cars! Drive in the happy 3k to 5k rpm range..that things a torque monster when the engines running well..also btw.. 2700 pounds..its LITE!
Fords of that age all seemed to suffer from slow windows. Best method i found was to spray silicone lubricant into the window tracks ( the felt lined sealing strips, front and back of the door). These tended to dry out and if left too long can either cause the glass to come out of its mounting at the bottom or the motor to fail. Another issue with Fords of that time was the airbag light, invariable it is down to the seat belt pretensioner connector under the seats. The contacts oxidise and start throwing codes. Either clean with contact cleaner or just spray with WD40 and make and unmake the connection a couple of times. It comes up as an airbag light as it runs on the airbag control module. Looks good though , even if the clearcoat has gone on the paintwork.
Keep the plastic undertray off til it works, or leave it off for 5 min belts and just turn the steering wheel full right instead of taking the wheel off lol. Shift at 7k. Exhaust can make a little extra power. Complete system $400 ish Headers are $120 on ebay and only 3hp off the most expensive headers ever. Headers - Hi-flow cat- 2.5" pipe and bends - Magnaflow muffler performance Muffler. Glad you didn't quit on it!
My dad had a ford probe gt but eventually something was wrong with the transmission & left it at the junkyard😔 hopefully I can find one for the low & build on it
They were nice looking cars. I don't know much about their performance level but I seriously doubt Ford really ever planned to replace the Mustang with the Probe. Looking forward to seeing it fully restored....
Styling looks very similar to my 94 firebird, the popup headlights look near identical Also mines a v6 with a 5 speed manual, only issue is it being a rwd half of its under the windsheild cowl so the rear 2 spark plugs are a pain to get to.
I've owned three and it simply boils down to how they're taken care of. The air box hoses get dry rotted and leak causing shitty performance. The engine is rock solid if they're cared for properly. There are a few variations of the V6 mainly being the MX6 having a curved intake and around 200 hp and in the Probe, the intake is straight with about 165 hp. You can swap an MX6 KLZE motor over to a Probe and it will work fine but you can also add some cheap bolt-ons to the American KLDE version and get close to the MX6's power. I think the main difference is the MX6 has rounded ports for better air flow inside the intake and the compression ratio which I believe is 10:1 for the MX6, but don't quote me on that because I can't remember for sure.. I had the exact same color but mine was a 95! I sold it but I regret it now. It ran great and I took it on a 1000 mile road trip from Georgia to Florida and back with no issues whatsoever.
Agree. Drove mine all over for 25 years and 190k miles, until the diff finally broke some teeth. Clutch still original though. I am working to get it back on the road soon. please share what you would do to a DE for more power, without major work. I did not know the Mx-6 had a ZE in the states too?
a true short ram cold air intake may give you between 5-10 hp. I believe there are lightweight flywheels you can replace the stock ones with but idk how much hp you might gain. I think one of the best ways to get more hp without digging into the motor is replacing the exhaust headers and running new exhaust with a high flow aftermarket muffler. You can get a tuned engine computer but they're a little pricey and idk how hard it'd be to do it yourself. If I can think of anything else I'll let you know. Of course you can do the turbo thing but you'd have to rebuild your motor for it to be able to handle the massive power difference plus you'd need a high performance clutch kit.
A lot of the ze's that are in the states are jdm swaps from overseas. Japanese smog rules are strict af and I think they have to replace the motors after a certain mileage and/or time frame but idk the particulars. I also installed a short throw shifter kit which makes the car even more enjoyable to drive in my opinion of course. The difference between the throw of stock shifter and the aftermarket surprised the shit outta me because you barely have to move it to shift gears.
@@dailyfilmfix469 I am doing the clutch, as you will see in my videos. I have heard mixed results on a lightweight flywheel, losing much torque as engine revs down so fast. (But I guess would spin up faster as a benefit). My VRIS are both not working. I may focus on that. I do have a free flowing cat that may help a little. Thank you.
@@ford_probe_garage_studio the vris acting up is usually due to a bad solenoid and/or vacuum leaks, improper vacuum hose routing, etc. Idk if the computer controls them to open and close or if they just open up at certain rpms. Good luck and I wish you all the best!! I'll definitely be watching your progress as you go. These cars are a dying breed and we need to keep them alive. I think they're one of the best looking mass- produced entry level sports cars out there.
thank the lord you started making ford probe videos :D keep them coming :D i both a 1996 2.0 16v probe 2 weeks ago XD probably needs a timing belt and water pump replacement cuz it has been sitting in a garage since 2013 . 1500$ but zero scratches and 120k miles on the clock , hop i do not regret it XD
If I were you I would have replaced the timing belt hydraulic tensioner too. They are known to fail and when so, the motor will eventually start making a loud ugly rattle noise that can be easily mistaken for bad lifters or tappets. Also, the two auxiliary belt idler pulleys are prone to fail and make grinding noises. The lower one is easy to replace from the bottom of the car, but the upper one is more difficult as there is little space, as you have found. As for your running issues after the timing belt replacement: the first boot (from front air intake to air filter) is not important, as any air sucked there is measured by the airflow meter and air fuel ratio is properly adjusted. You could even remove that hose and it won't affect running (except for slightly hotter air being sucked from engine bay). However, leaks in the longer boot (from AFM to butterfly) are quite critical, as they fool mixture (the AFM doesn't realize if air is being sucked after it), so focus on that hose. You can repare it with RTV sealant or replace it by a new one (not cheap) from rockauto, etc. Vacuum leaks in this engine are common and they DO affect running. You can build a DIY smoke tester (watch ruclips.net/video/L9CDZ9lu6Rs/видео.html) and put some smoke on the engine when stopped. I found some leaks this way. Don't expect the air filter box to seal well, though, but that's not important (again, because it's before the AFM).
thought this was funny. I just did my first oil change on my 2004 suburban. no jack, special wrenches, nothing. Very very hard to squeeze under. you had the exact opposite experience lmao. Also named Ethan Btw. Good to see another 90's car on the road again!
I swear that’s a good deal I been hunting one of those for about that price range ! They are harder to find these days ! When I was 16 those were very fast to us ! Lol great buy / find I would drive it for sure !!!
Man I miss my 98 gt. Had hotshot headers on it, that thing SCOOOTED. There's a lot of untapped power in the KL-06 but if you drop in a KLZE oh boy oh boy.
I have 1996 2.0 ECP FP, thx to Your vid bout Your 2.5 You've got another viewer (sub!) BTW this car is great, made engine overhaul last year and it works like a charm... Good job revivng Yours!
My question is do you call your purple car Grimace or Barney?..... I think I have the answer, if I was Probed I would probably Grimace! Hope that helps!
I love this thing! Maybe instead of duct tape, do a cold air intake? It would give some more air to that peppy lil V6. Can’t wait to see how this lil aerodynamic grape turns out!!!
Stressful to watch, glad end result was fine. Yes. Buy new Air intake curved boot and fresh gas and will be as fast as a 944 non turbo, if not faster. Great news these rare excellent driving cars are starting to be snatched up and preserved. Do the paperclip jumper trick to get the check engine light codes. Could be part of the next video. Takes 5 minutes. Thank you. Keep the videos coming. Ps. I’m planning to post more probe videos also, just impossible to find a 5 speed replacement trans for the V6. Been off the road too long, since 2015.
his car is a 97 and OBD2.. you cant read the codes via the flahsing check engine lite on these, u need a code reader... ANY car 95 or later is OBD2.. the 93-94 probes had the obd1 and that method works on those..its how i read my 94.. unfortunetatly, its a lame ass gimped system compared to obd2 which is Hugely more diagnostic and info rich than the primitive obd1... i wish i had the newer system
Glad to see the Probe is finally coming along, it’s definitely one of my favorite cars in your garage
Nice video. I love the honesty in your mechanical skills. That’s hard to come by on RUclips. You’ve got to name that one Grimace.
As a MX-6 owner this makes me so happy! Also a little scared because I was hoping to do some minor work on my V6...
A stuck thermostat will definitely cause overheating, the coolant is not circulating. Glad it wasn't the radiator being clogged.
The torn intake hose will cause a vacuum leak & piss off the computer's air/fuel mixture & the idle.
Seems like all is tracking. Happy for the Probe!
I wonder what an OBD scan would show regarding the check engine light? A 97 should have access.
Hard to work on, yes. But that would make saving the car more notable because it's human nature to simply give up on those cars to extinction.
There are tricks to working on these cars. Once you have them figured out they are pretty easy to work on, except for the rust. It is easier for me to access the timing belt and water pump by removing the alternator and power steering belt brackets then remove timing belt and w.p. through RF wheel well.
Idle and stalling issues as you correctly guessed are usually caused by vacuum leaks. These cars are really sensitive to vacuum leaks and small ones that dont cause drivability issues can still cause check engine codes. Larger ones, as you saw, cause stalling and fluctuating idle. Pull out the dip stick with the engine on, then the oil cap and you will see what I mean.
Just a logistical comment, It's called Boysenberry! Glad you got it going, the way the video evolved I thought you were going to give up. Glad you fixed the boots even if you used gaffers tape and not duct tape. :)
MOOORE ABOUT PROBE
Take care of that car and it will take care of you. I love probes this is definitely my favorite car in your garage!
I'm always so happy to see another Ford Probe put back on the road again and your progress is definitely moving forward nicely
Love that engine - I had one in my Mazda 626 GT. I now have a 2002 Volvo S80 2.4 - took me less than 1 hr to change water pump, cam belt & tensioner ( didn't even have to remove the engine mount or crank pulley ) :)
Can’t get over the dream catcher. Haha. I think this car will end up being a beauty.
I bet Tyler from Hoovies garage would have a bonner with this P- GT.
Good job and congratulations, keep us posted 👊
Currently restoring a 93 GT. Your doing great.. these cars might be hard to work on but they love to keep going.
Dang, that was HARD WON! Congrats on real progress!
Thanks!! I've made more progress with this car in the last few weeks than I made with my entire fleet last year! Thanks pandemic, I guess?
Seeing those icy blue gauges brought back so many memories. My first new car was a '93 Probe GT. Still miss that car! Awesome video.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you enjoyed it :)
This channel deserves more subs. Love the multiple camera angles and setups. Very seamless especially for just being one person doing everything. Love the content!
Super awesome progress on the Probie! Great that she's being returned to the road again instead of becoming soda cans. Great save!!!
that probe GT was my child hood dream car... I drive X5Ms and high end vettes today, but still, this is the car that started it all for me.
Love your videos man, the editing is great lmao. Keep them videos coming!
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it! :) :)
Thanks again for the great vid! Love to see someone else with a Probe GT, even better to have it on RUclips! :)
I had a first gen 1989 Ford Probe, put about 275,000 km on it. Hope to see what all you can fix on it, you brought back many great memories.
Another great video, this channel definitely deserves more subs!
Love to see someone taking care of a probe.
I would love to find a probe again but just dont have the icome to save one
Same. I miss my 95.
I owned this exact car color and all.. would love to own one again
Brings back awesome memories of my 93 GT.
That was the most fun car to drive I've ever owned!
But when it got some miles on it, I quickly found out it was a beast to work on, LOL!
Nice job! Always loved gen II Ford Probe GTs.
You got that probe unbelievably cheap and I know it has its problems and stuff but if you really think of it it's and amazing car for 300 dollars and is worth money in the future
He also said his 944 Turbo is 'super fast'...He's clearly not a car guy...
I owned a red 89 GT, a teal 93 GT, and a dark green 97 GT. Bought them all new, so never had to do that kind of maintenance to them. Loved all 3 of them.
It's such a cool looking car, I love the way it looks at night with the pop up headlights.
Getting close. Makes me smile.
Im Glad you got her running. Awesome content 👍👍
Probe veteran here, I got 3 of these in various levels of trims.
The V6 timing belt is not engine out but damn is it easy with the engine out. You need to sort the CEL I'm betting on downstream o2s. If it has a Diagnostic port under the hood, use a paperclip to jump TEN and GND and count the flashes, then report back.
Im building a 93 GT for track, mine has a KLZE with bolt-ons and Megasquirt and might give your 944 Turbo a run for its money by the time Im done with it.
These are very underrated cars and respond well to modification, but I'd keep yours for a daily.
Former 94 probe gt owner here. I love u. Ha! Oh yeah, New subscriber!!
Yeah! Thanks for subscribing!! :) :)
$400 in labor and they neglected to tighten the accessory belt and caused vacuum leaks by breaking your intake? Ouch...
Glad to see the car get a second chance though!
Back in '88 I was crazy about the new Probe. I walked up to them when they were parked, and I thought that I would buy one if I won the lotto. Having one of those cars fully restored with some of the 80s accessories like an Oakley decal for the windshield and louvers for the back window would make a for a great car to drive to Radwood.
I've own 2 Ford Probes. I had a 1991 LX and a 2004 SE. Loved both cars and been looking for another one.
Excellent video! Thanks for the content. I enjoy your channel! Brings back old memories.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad you enjoyed it :)
damn, pop up headlights were so cool.
Finally! It Is the best feeling, fix a car that was broken
I'm thinking of getting one of these in the future, there such cool cars. Love the videos bro, you just got a new subscriber 👍
This would be a great car for your kids to drive to school. I had one and I loved it still looks good for its age
I love these cars, I had 2 of them. The GT 5 speed was really fun, they maneuvered so great
I had one of these in the 90's and I could spin the front tires 1st-3rd gear..just a chirp in 3rd. But I loved it
This was my first car, but in red. Still have dreams about it.
This ford probe is what got me into your channel and I have to say I really love your content! I hope you continue buying and selling cheap cars! Please more videos on the Ford Probe!
Thanks for the kind words! More coming soon! :)
@@HelloRoad you're very welcome Ethan! Stay safe and keep hunting for cool deals!
@@JayBral Yes, more videos on the Probe please. I am close to getting mine fixed. Finding all the parts is time consuming.
Agree 100 percent
Thank you for saving that car
Good to see her get fixed, they're a lot and I mean A LOT faster when they're in the right room range, fun fact they have an obscenely high redline, in fact they tend to still build power up to 10,500 RPM but Mazda tuned the ecu down because yeah we tend to be an irresponsible lot
This was my favorite car when this body style came out and I love the color. It deserves to be restored.
Was actually watching another video. Saw this. Clicked immediately.
Just a heads up, the torn intake boot from the air filter housing to the throttle body is considered a visual fail if you get it smog tested in California.
I would recommend a compression and leakdown test, since it overheated so bad. Just to be safe. It's an open deck aluminum block with aluminum heads, they don't like to be overheated. The stalling and power could be the valve covers causing a vacuum leak, I had that issue. Keep it idling and remove the dipstick slightly, mine dropped a ton of rpms when I did that when I had a massive vacuum leak. I would say get a vacuum tester and see how much vacuum it has at idle, mine sits at around 20-22, I'm not sure what "spec" is though. You can also find that torn boot on eBay quite easily, I actually have a pretty new one I purchased maybe 4 years ago that was a direct replacement. When you get to the intake manifold/valve covers, there's going to be a terrible bolt behind the intake manifold, that attaches a set of solenoids to the engine block/intake manifold. I would remove this bolt once you feel it, and throw it in your toolbox. It's unnecessary and makes removal of the intake down the road very difficult. It's gonna be the last bolt you remove more than likely, it's a real pain to get to. I tossed mine at the side of my house with force cause it cost me hours and hours trying to remove it. Anyway, good luck! Thanks for saving it and doing this video series!
I havent bothered with my rear cover leak for that very reason bro and ive had mine 26yrs... lol Ive heard about that Infamous bolt !!.. hopefully, it was straitforward and not to bad a job, that Bolt aside.
Skip741 x Honestly I’m so numb to what’s “Difficult” about working on these cars from doing things SO. MANY. TIMES. Do yourself a favor and replace your cam seals, they’re cheap and easy to replace in just a few minutes, I had one fly out and I lost 3 quarts of oil and nearly lost my engine because of it
Great buy on a V6 sports car and with some serious paint correction it could look great too
all that work to replace the water pump and it was probably just the $5 thermostat. LOL
Very satisfying video to watch. Thanks for saving another one.
Glad you got it fixed. The M.A.P sensor that is in the duct and when air gets into that area the car runs bad. By you using duct tape you made it sealed system again hence it works like it should. Great job on it buddy. I love the color and the car. Enjoy it and make more videos 👍👍
that Main boot to the throttlebody should and Needs to be replaced though... duct tape is just for testing only
The oil change was the only easy thing to do really on this car engine wise. The air filter was very tight to get in and out of the air box. It's best to unhook the clamp and hose off of the throttle body first. I'm glad you got it going. My '96 did not have that cover over the oil pan area etc. The flex pipe from the exhaust is so close to the oil filter that one time I burned the inside of my wrist because I touched it when doing the oil filter by accident. My skin turned white hot and then red. I still barely have the scar and it's crazy because it is the shape of Australia. LOL. Also your Probe should be OBDII. I'd be interested to see what the check engine light shows on a code reader. I'm sure you have one. Otherwise most of the auto parts stores will hook one up for you for free. It may have just thrown a code and not cleared yet when you maf sensor was getting bad air fuel readings before you taped up the hose.
I agree with ur diagnosis.. he Needs to clear the codes tough... I'd take a reading 1st just to see if it Was the air leak...then clear it and drive alittle, check again and see what u got.
Ethan: you might be able to get a bit more oomph out of it by putting some injector cleaner in the tank. I put some in my mom's old van and it definitely helped.
great video, your cars bring back a flood of memories
Great to see a period piece dream catcher.
I had a 93 I thought the same thing and actually that car is relatively easy to work on but you have to read the book and you have to do the moves as they are instructed in the book
Finally subbed after enjoying all the vids I’ve watched so far. What’s so funny is the Ford Duratec V6 which came after this engine has the same problem as far as difficulty/expense related to changing a water pump. Good luck with the car though!
Thanks for subscribing! More vids with this car coming soon. :) :)
DOOD those Probe GT's are wicked fun. I still have one..and have had 3 others before this one. Mines got a short throw shifter..Full open exhaust..headers..test pipe..Borla exhaust..Cold air intake..and I drive the F out of it still
U wont regret putting all those things I mentioned on it..Njoy man..Highly under rated cars!
Drive in the happy 3k to 5k rpm range..that things a torque monster when the engines running well..also btw..
2700 pounds..its LITE!
Fords of that age all seemed to suffer from slow windows. Best method i found was to spray silicone lubricant into the window tracks ( the felt lined sealing strips, front and back of the door). These tended to dry out and if left too long can either cause the glass to come out of its mounting at the bottom or the motor to fail.
Another issue with Fords of that time was the airbag light, invariable it is down to the seat belt pretensioner connector under the seats. The contacts oxidise and start throwing codes. Either clean with contact cleaner or just spray with WD40 and make and unmake the connection a couple of times. It comes up as an airbag light as it runs on the airbag control module.
Looks good though , even if the clearcoat has gone on the paintwork.
Those pop-up headlights though.... beautiful.
you dont see that AT ALL anymore.. i love them too!
Keep the plastic undertray off til it works, or leave it off for 5 min belts and just turn the steering wheel full right instead of taking the wheel off lol. Shift at 7k. Exhaust can make a little extra power. Complete system $400 ish Headers are $120 on ebay and only 3hp off the most expensive headers ever. Headers - Hi-flow cat- 2.5" pipe and bends - Magnaflow muffler performance Muffler. Glad you didn't quit on it!
got my black one from some lawyer in 2000....made so many sweet mods thanks to my friends at Probetalk.....
Probetalk was the SHIT back in the day
I remember when those were new. That car should have some pep to it. I don't think you can compare it to your 944 but it should zip.
My dad had a ford probe gt but eventually something was wrong with the transmission & left it at the junkyard😔 hopefully I can find one for the low & build on it
the brakes are common for binding with the ford probe making it feel super slow
Yes, the hand brake in the rear caliper is prone to get stuck, specially in the left side. Bad caliper design.
They were nice looking cars. I don't know much about their performance level but I seriously doubt Ford really ever planned to replace the Mustang with the Probe. Looking forward to seeing it fully restored....
Check the small hoses around the intake. Some are coolant and are prone to cracking. IAC like to clog as well
Styling looks very similar to my 94 firebird, the popup headlights look near identical
Also mines a v6 with a 5 speed manual, only issue is it being a rwd half of its under the windsheild cowl so the rear 2 spark plugs are a pain to get to.
I see a new Hello Road video, I give it a like!
If anything, if the a/c works, put it on CL for $1500!
Thank you! Yes the AC is super cold! Next up is to fix the clunking from the rear (maybe sway bar) and fix the window motors. :)
@@HelloRoad I'd say then keep on truckin'!! You'd probably be the only one keeping a purple Ford Probe on the road!
Great job, keep us updated.
I've owned three and it simply boils down to how they're taken care of. The air box hoses get dry rotted and leak causing shitty performance. The engine is rock solid if they're cared for properly. There are a few variations of the V6 mainly being the MX6 having a curved intake and around 200 hp and in the Probe, the intake is straight with about 165 hp. You can swap an MX6 KLZE motor over to a Probe and it will work fine but you can also add some cheap bolt-ons to the American KLDE version and get close to the MX6's power. I think the main difference is the MX6 has rounded ports for better air flow inside the intake and the compression ratio which I believe is 10:1 for the MX6, but don't quote me on that because I can't remember for sure.. I had the exact same color but mine was a 95! I sold it but I regret it now. It ran great and I took it on a 1000 mile road trip from Georgia to Florida and back with no issues whatsoever.
Agree. Drove mine all over for 25 years and 190k miles, until the diff finally broke some teeth. Clutch still original though. I am working to get it back on the road soon. please share what you would do to a DE for more power, without major work. I did not know the Mx-6 had a ZE in the states too?
a true short ram cold air intake may give you between 5-10 hp. I believe there are lightweight flywheels you can replace the stock ones with but idk how much hp you might gain. I think one of the best ways to get more hp without digging into the motor is replacing the exhaust headers and running new exhaust with a high flow aftermarket muffler. You can get a tuned engine computer but they're a little pricey and idk how hard it'd be to do it yourself. If I can think of anything else I'll let you know. Of course you can do the turbo thing but you'd have to rebuild your motor for it to be able to handle the massive power difference plus you'd need a high performance clutch kit.
A lot of the ze's that are in the states are jdm swaps from overseas. Japanese smog rules are strict af and I think they have to replace the motors after a certain mileage and/or time frame but idk the particulars. I also installed a short throw shifter kit which makes the car even more enjoyable to drive in my opinion of course. The difference between the throw of stock shifter and the aftermarket surprised the shit outta me because you barely have to move it to shift gears.
@@dailyfilmfix469 I am doing the clutch, as you will see in my videos. I have heard mixed results on a lightweight flywheel, losing much torque as engine revs down so fast. (But I guess would spin up faster as a benefit). My VRIS are both not working. I may focus on that. I do have a free flowing cat that may help a little. Thank you.
@@ford_probe_garage_studio the vris acting up is usually due to a bad solenoid and/or vacuum leaks, improper vacuum hose routing, etc. Idk if the computer controls them to open and close or if they just open up at certain rpms. Good luck and I wish you all the best!! I'll definitely be watching your progress as you go. These cars are a dying breed and we need to keep them alive. I think they're one of the best looking mass- produced entry level sports cars out there.
thank the lord you started making ford probe videos :D keep them coming :D i both a 1996 2.0 16v probe 2 weeks ago XD probably needs a timing belt and water pump replacement cuz it has been sitting in a garage since 2013 . 1500$ but zero scratches and 120k miles on the clock , hop i do not regret it XD
I loved my '94 Probe GT, had quite a lot of fun in that car. And back in the '90s it was still "fast." heh
Have fun buddy lol...I’ve owned my 96 gt probe for 18 years...it’s a constant work in progress. But! these cars are still awesome.
If I were you I would have replaced the timing belt hydraulic tensioner too. They are known to fail and when so, the motor will eventually start making a loud ugly rattle noise that can be easily mistaken for bad lifters or tappets. Also, the two auxiliary belt idler pulleys are prone to fail and make grinding noises. The lower one is easy to replace from the bottom of the car, but the upper one is more difficult as there is little space, as you have found.
As for your running issues after the timing belt replacement: the first boot (from front air intake to air filter) is not important, as any air sucked there is measured by the airflow meter and air fuel ratio is properly adjusted. You could even remove that hose and it won't affect running (except for slightly hotter air being sucked from engine bay). However, leaks in the longer boot (from AFM to butterfly) are quite critical, as they fool mixture (the AFM doesn't realize if air is being sucked after it), so focus on that hose. You can repare it with RTV sealant or replace it by a new one (not cheap) from rockauto, etc.
Vacuum leaks in this engine are common and they DO affect running. You can build a DIY smoke tester (watch ruclips.net/video/L9CDZ9lu6Rs/видео.html) and put some smoke on the engine when stopped. I found some leaks this way. Don't expect the air filter box to seal well, though, but that's not important (again, because it's before the AFM).
thought this was funny. I just did my first oil change on my 2004 suburban. no jack, special wrenches, nothing. Very very hard to squeeze under. you had the exact opposite experience lmao. Also named Ethan Btw. Good to see another 90's car on the road again!
I swear that’s a good deal I been hunting one of those for about that price range ! They are harder to find these days ! When I was 16 those were very fast to us ! Lol great buy / find I would drive it for sure !!!
90s Ford's never die.
Duck tape always do the job ! :)
I'm making Purple Rice. I like that colour.
Man I miss my 98 gt. Had hotshot headers on it, that thing SCOOOTED. There's a lot of untapped power in the KL-06 but if you drop in a KLZE oh boy oh boy.
@Derek Gardin www.enginesus.com/product/klze-2-5-199hp-v6-engine-for-93-mazda-mx6/
You have done the right thing to give some TLC to that car.
ALWAYS check your new t-stat in some hot water before installing. Sometimes they are bad out of the box.
Good call
Cool 😀 My sister had a dark Burgandy 1989 Ford Probe, automattic 4 cylinder. It looked cool, was fun to drive 😀
I have 1996 2.0 ECP FP, thx to Your vid bout Your 2.5 You've got another viewer (sub!) BTW this car is great, made engine overhaul last year and it works like a charm... Good job revivng Yours!
s328.photobucket.com/user/ziemaxBombermax/Probe/story
That thing is fkin gorgeous... Imagine it getting a new paint/detailing...
My question is do you call your purple car Grimace or Barney?.....
I think I have the answer, if I was Probed I would probably Grimace!
Hope that helps!
It's da Purple People Eater
I love this thing! Maybe instead of duct tape, do a cold air intake? It would give some more air to that peppy lil V6. Can’t wait to see how this lil aerodynamic grape turns out!!!
Cold air intake is next on my list!
didnt these engines have variable intake runners on the manifold?
Yes, it's called VRIS.
maybe it would be a good idea to check that this is functioning correctly
@@somervillearron it should show in the ecu code if u have VRIS issues
Maybe while you’re in there, you could swap in a motor from a new Mirage. That would be interesting...
No crossbreds please...
When your friend in high school drove a Probe and you called him the Probester and watch out for Celebrity's
I actually like the Probe. In this colour especially.
I have a 94 ford probe and it keeps dying mid drive like it can’t breath any suggestions to why it is doing this?
Stressful to watch, glad end result was fine. Yes. Buy new Air intake curved boot and fresh gas and will be as fast as a 944 non turbo, if not faster. Great news these rare excellent driving cars are starting to be snatched up and preserved. Do the paperclip jumper trick to get the check engine light codes. Could be part of the next video. Takes 5 minutes. Thank you. Keep the videos coming. Ps. I’m planning to post more probe videos also, just impossible to find a 5 speed replacement trans for the V6. Been off the road too long, since 2015.
his car is a 97 and OBD2.. you cant read the codes via the flahsing check engine lite on these, u need a code reader... ANY car 95 or later is OBD2.. the 93-94 probes had the obd1 and that method works on those..its how i read my 94.. unfortunetatly, its a lame ass gimped system compared to obd2 which is Hugely more diagnostic and info rich than the primitive obd1... i wish i had the newer system
You should run a paper test on the VIRS system. Its Mazda version of Vtech.
Amazing work. Love this thing. 💜
I love this car! Did you sell it?
I still have it. It's at the shop now!