Nice project, I'm looking forward to the other episodes. Grease is good on an old machine like that. I saw lots of grease, and no rust. Seems much better than no grease and lots of rust!
Well, grease can be good and bad. When Grease is used, (where oil is expected) it holds onto chips and grit - and will help to wear out the ways and other machined surfaces. And man, the bed and carriage on this machine is pretty badly worn.
Tim did a very impressive job on his restorations. Non-the-less I can't imagine him using them afterwards. It's like buying a brand new pick-up truck. I wouldn't want to risk scratching it. So I guess I'd always prefer getting a used one...
Thank you Randy. The videos are even getting better with some changes to the video image-quality and I'll be getting some lapel mics as well to eliminate the echo.
I'm looking forward to watching this series. You are already a badass at restoring, and after picking up some painting tips you're going to be even better! I'm digging the video collaboration format with Tim, it works.
Thanks for that Dan. Appreciate the kind words and the support for the collaboration. I've made better improvements in video quality with last nigh't episode (disassembly of gearbox and carriage) - and I'll be getting some lav--mics to improve the sound. Good things are on the way!
I just started my restoration of my SB 10L. To remove the lead screw I put some keyway stock in the slot to give it a place to grab with wrench(soft jaw) made for easy removal of the nut. No damage! Nice to see you working on your south bend. Thanks for the inspiration.
NH to Lansdale for 21 years back to NH and still getting my share of those 'green beauties'! Too bad we didn't get to do some bass fishing before I left.
The side gear cover hinge pivot pin is held to the cover with babbitt. Heat the pin where it sits in the cover to melt the babbitt. Re position the cover, hinge bracket, and pin to align the spindle shaft to the access hole on the gear cover .Re-melt the babbitt into the hole for a tight & accurate fit. I ran short of babbitt when I did mine and added aluminum brazing rod, which worked great. The brazing rod melts around the same temperature as does the babbitt around 800F, just below aluminum melting point.
Nice to see people doing some fine restoration work, here I'm more into using a tool than restore, not used to work with small machines light enough to be lifted by one person.... ;)
About using a brass drift to remove the lead screw: brass can work harden and damage steel (DAMHIKT). You didn't have to hit it very hard this time, but if you did, it could have buggered the thread on the end of the lead screw.
Good video, I just subscribed, I’m doing a full restoration on its twin brother right now! If you guys where closer I’d buy you a yuengling. P.s. who are the 11 jokesters who gave it a thumbs down ? Bunch a’ ya-hoos
For grabbing something delicate with channel locks, a piece of an old leather belt, 1/8th to 3/16th thick works very well. Much stronger than paper towels.
13:41 What keeps the reversing tumbler attached to the lathe? I assumed it would be the outer nut, but I see it is still in place when you pull the assembly out. I need to remove the spindle from my 10K for the first time and any help would be appreciated.
Its dirty, but not abnormally so. My 10L was so gunky on the ways that the carriage only moved freely over about a 6" span. Looks like a good project. I like underdrive lathes, makes for a more useful work space vs a bench top with a back motor that hogs up your table.
The impact driver, that is a tool that I bought when I was in my mid 30's.. I wish I had bought it 20 years before that, because it made so many jobs a whole lot easier.
I used a wide impact driver screwdriver bit and ground out the center with a dremel tool and made it fit the cross slide nuts holding the handles on. Worked great.
Brad when you finish the rebuild it looks better than from the factory with all the polishing- awesome!! One question slightly off topic in this video on the 10k rebuild part 1, when you have it stripped to just the bed ,I was wondering what is the new white lathe in the background, shown in towards the end? Another question on the south bends - do you dunk the threading gearboxes in zepp or purple power before disassembly or after to get the crud and chips out first? Anyway very fine videos and very informative, thanks a lot!
That (was) my Eisen gear head. I'll be getting another one pretty soon actually. And I always disassemble everything, do to the last nut and bolt before I clean or derust :-)
Good video, looking forward to the series. I'm doing up a 1938 SB 11"-4'. This will be a nice reference.Tim looks like the actor, a young Gary Sinise! Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Hi guys. Nice new setup and project. I think you guys might need to change the camera setup, and zoom out more than you were used too in the past. I realise that this was the first time and some things need to be ironed out. I think it's going to be much harder to have two people working in the one shot. You might have to think about a camera man, but then you need a producer a sound technician and a clapper loader, before you know it you will have to get a catering department and a makeup trailer. Man, good luck ( O;
I am just finishing my 10K. Note: it is not restoration unless the parts are ground, scraped, and fit. A&D in Roberts WI did mine for $1000. With Turcite on the saddle.
Nice project, I'm looking forward to the other episodes.
Grease is good on an old machine like that. I saw lots of grease, and no rust.
Seems much better than no grease and lots of rust!
Well, grease can be good and bad. When Grease is used, (where oil is expected) it holds onto chips and grit - and will help to wear out the ways and other machined surfaces. And man, the bed and carriage on this machine is pretty badly worn.
Tim did a very impressive job on his restorations.
Non-the-less I can't imagine him using them afterwards.
It's like buying a brand new pick-up truck. I wouldn't want to risk scratching it.
So I guess I'd always prefer getting a used one...
Nice to see you with a South Bend again, and a bonus is taking us though a restoration of it. Looking forward to the new series, thanks.
Thank you Randy. The videos are even getting better with some changes to the video image-quality and I'll be getting some lapel mics as well to eliminate the echo.
I'm looking forward to watching this series. You are already a badass at restoring, and after picking up some painting tips you're going to be even better! I'm digging the video collaboration format with Tim, it works.
Thanks for that Dan. Appreciate the kind words and the support for the collaboration. I've made better improvements in video quality with last nigh't episode (disassembly of gearbox and carriage) - and I'll be getting some lav--mics to improve the sound. Good things are on the way!
I just started my restoration of my SB 10L. To remove the lead screw I put some keyway stock in the slot to give it a place to grab with wrench(soft jaw) made for easy removal of the nut. No damage!
Nice to see you working on your south bend.
Thanks for the inspiration.
You do some nice work. I have a heavy 10 same one your restoring and a jet 1340. Thank you for showing us your talent.
HI Guys,
Nice project to team up on. Always good seeing two guys work that know what they are doing!
Take Care,
Reid
Really like this, I may do this myself just because it's a very thoroughly detailed exhibiting the process.
Great work guys. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
NH to Lansdale for 21 years back to NH and still getting my share of those 'green beauties'! Too bad we didn't get to do some bass fishing before I left.
Yeah, I know. And now with winter, no bass for me either :-(
Sweet. Two of my favorite South Benders working together. :)
Thomas Utley thank you!!
Thanks Tom!
Looking forward to the series. Glad to have you back, Brad.
Now I have to go on ebay to look for South Bend Viewmaster reels...
Joe
Set up an alert. That's how I found mine. I'm definitely going to make a video on it, as I think lot's of the SB guys would like it.
Hope to get a South bend 10k lathe after I build up some more knowledge. Great content, can’t wait for part 2. Subscribed gladly.
I see you favor that Potstown beer! (good stuff love it) Glade to see you back working in the 'NEW' shop
Oh yeah. Can't be from PA and not fancy those green beauties :)
can't wait to see the rest of the series
Part 2 is done and part3 was just shot last night.
The side gear cover hinge pivot pin is held to the cover with babbitt. Heat the pin where it sits in the cover to melt the babbitt. Re position the cover, hinge bracket, and pin to align the spindle shaft to the access hole on the gear cover .Re-melt the babbitt into the hole for a tight & accurate fit. I ran short of babbitt when I did mine and added aluminum brazing rod, which worked great. The brazing rod melts around the same temperature as does the babbitt around 800F, just below aluminum melting point.
Interesting. It'll be fun to experiment with babbitt, as I've never done it before.
If you need any extra give me a shout.
Nice to see people doing some fine restoration work, here I'm more into using a tool than restore, not used to work with small machines light enough to be lifted by one person.... ;)
Thanks Pierre. Glad you're enjoying.
About using a brass drift to remove the lead screw: brass can work harden and damage steel (DAMHIKT). You didn't have to hit it very hard this time, but if you did, it could have buggered the thread on the end of the lead screw.
Put the nuts back on before hitting.
Got to protect your thread.
Great to see you back into it. :)
Thanks!
Good video, I just subscribed, I’m doing a full restoration on its twin brother right now! If you guys where closer I’d buy you a yuengling. P.s. who are the 11 jokesters who gave it a thumbs down ? Bunch a’ ya-hoos
Thank you. Please note the 10K resto got cancelled and I sold the machine. The heavy 10 video explains all.
For grabbing something delicate with channel locks, a piece of an old leather belt, 1/8th to 3/16th thick works very well.
Much stronger than paper towels.
Excellent idea. I have an old belt I can donate for that purpose. Thanks!
Another idea, as you have a well-equipped shop:
A collet block on the far end will work best, I think.
Great video, looks like it will be a very interesting series. Looks like you both have done this before.
And because of (you) I now have Wiha screwdrivers, ball-end hex drivers!
Awesome! cant wait to see the next video!
Being edited in the next couple days. Footage was shot already.
13:41 What keeps the reversing tumbler attached to the lathe? I assumed it would be the outer nut, but I see it is still in place when you pull the assembly out. I need to remove the spindle from my 10K for the first time and any help would be appreciated.
Its dirty, but not abnormally so. My 10L was so gunky on the ways that the carriage only moved freely over about a 6" span. Looks like a good project. I like underdrive lathes, makes for a more useful work space vs a bench top with a back motor that hogs up your table.
Yeah, I agree totally.
The impact driver, that is a tool that I bought when I was in my mid 30's.. I wish I had bought it 20 years before that, because it made so many jobs a whole lot easier.
It certainly does. I love it and it helped me so many times.
I used a wide impact driver screwdriver bit and ground out the center with a dremel tool and made it fit the cross slide nuts holding the handles on. Worked great.
Yeah it's happening! Now I won't have a good excuse. Thanks for showing this.......
Exactly J - get on it. You have a BEAUTY too!!
Brad when you finish the rebuild it looks better than from the factory with all the polishing- awesome!! One question slightly off topic in this video on the 10k rebuild part 1, when you have it stripped to just the bed ,I was wondering what is the new white lathe in the background, shown in towards the end? Another question on the south bends - do you dunk the threading gearboxes in zepp or purple power before disassembly or after to get the crud and chips out first? Anyway very fine videos and very informative, thanks a lot!
That (was) my Eisen gear head. I'll be getting another one pretty soon actually. And I always disassemble everything, do to the last nut and bolt before I clean or derust :-)
Thanks very much for the info and instruction
How did you remove the drive belt (to allow you to remove the headstock)?
Good video, looking forward to the series. I'm doing up a 1938 SB 11"-4'. This will be a nice reference.Tim looks like the actor, a young Gary Sinise! Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Awesome Eddie! I hope it'll help out and maybe you can post some video of yours?
Hi guys. Nice new setup and project. I think you guys might need to change the camera setup, and zoom out more than you were used too in the past. I realise that this was the first time and some things need to be ironed out. I think it's going to be much harder to have two people working in the one shot. You might have to think about a camera man, but then you need a producer a sound technician and a clapper loader, before you know it you will have to get a catering department and a makeup trailer. Man, good luck ( O;
I would agree with this comment.
HAHAHA... really. Yeah we're working out some things, but it'll be better soon.
Looks like a nice collaborative project, look forwarding to watching it. enjoy. BTW I thought egg nog and hoodies go well together, ;-)
LOL - thanks Sean!
THANKS, GREAT WORK, LOOKING FORWARD TO ALL YOUR FUTURE DOWNLOADS, EX TOOL & DIEMAKER.P.J.C.LIVERPOOL ENGLAND.
Thank you.
You will like the ultrasonic cleaner, if it's big enough. It will get stuff out of places you didn't even know were places.
Oh yeah. I'm hoping it'll clean in between the spinning handle on the ball cranks. It did do some cleaning and it sure is awesome!
Feels like a NASCAR pit stop! 😀
Haha, a little bit.
MERRY CHRISTMAS !!!
Merry Christmas to you too as well my friend!
What kind of pedestal grinder was that?
Brad, are you going to do the serpentine belt conversion on this one?
I'm really thinking about it for my 9A.
Regards,
Duck
Duck - this machine is going to be fully old-school. Leather belt and lantern tool-post! All HSS tool bits too!
yes the leather belts which can be removed without cutting the belt is rational.
brad looking good.
Thanks Rob!
What's Tim's RUclips channel? Looking for more footage on his crazy good SB Heavy 10...
Unfortunately he does have a channel.
I am just finishing my 10K. Note: it is not restoration unless the parts are ground, scraped, and fit. A&D in Roberts WI did mine for $1000. With Turcite on the saddle.
if i have the money...
I should of made that dependent on the condition or the bed.
Mine came from a school, pretty banged up. Yours may be better.
Brad, did you get rid of your SB 13?
Kinda - the new owner is letting it stay here until he builds a retirement home.
IM LOOKING AT A 10 HEAVY. WOULD 1400.00 BE A GOOD PRICE?
Totally depends - quality, included tooling, how much you're willing to pay, etc..
Tim looks like he hasn't slept in a week.
Well, he works and has kids, life gets us all, from time to time, lol
Rod Dahl haha thats the truth!