Tesla LDU Rotor Coolant Delete Kit - For sale in the description!
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- New video with revised instructions based on installation feedback.
Save your Tesla LDU with this Rotor Coolant Delete Kit!
This kit eliminates the motor killing coolant leak that will destroy the Tesla Large Drive Unit, and can be installed without removing the motor from the car.
The outer fitting can be difficult to remove in the vehicle, an alternative option is to cut the coolant pipe, remove and cap off the inboard side near the differential. The cut end of the remaining tube can be sealed off if desired.
Contact me at evmusclecars@gmail.com for more details.
Aluminum Barbed Fitting kit Shipped for $150
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Aluminum Kits are sold out but will be back in stock with a new Billet Aluminum barb in a few weeks. Check back or add your email address to the list to get notified when they are ready to ship:
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Just installed. It's doable in the car, but a huge pain the first time through. I have a few problems with the kit: 1) FIRST STEP turn the car off!!! It will puke coolant out; 2) no printed instructions (and no torque specs); 3) the kit should 100% include a new o-ring where the new part bolts up (you really dropped the ball here - mine never stopped dropping coolant so no way for the RTV to cure without interference); 4) no mention of system bleeding; 5) this video makes this seem way easier than it is (you're going to need a second wrist on your right arm).
Thanks for your honest review, hopefully it helps me improve things and helps others with the installation. I will definitely add step one turn off the car before working on it 😉. I'm glad you used my kit instead of the one that makes you disconnect high voltage 😬.
@@MrMoparMan well, found a flaw. The inboard plug is not sealing while running the air purge sequence. The issue is your plug where the old o-ring is added is 0.50mm smaller and does not seal under pressure. Right now, I'm brazing the old pipe connection shut.
@@MrMoparMan Guess I'm your R&D guy? 2013 MS85 Rev.Q motor. I would suggest anyone doing this in the car to shop vac residual coolant from the remainder of the housing BEFORE adding the dust cover (btw, my cover did not go in straight and broke trying to pry it out). As I mentioned, I would avoid using the plastic plugs (mine did not seal - there was no "resistance" trying to install it because the dimension did not match). On the second go (and another gallon of antifreeze later), I instead cut the original aluminum pipe at the second bend from the fitting, then used a vise to get it near-closed and then brazed it shut - this actually gives you a handle to bleed the air up there (granted, air will be trapped in this pipe, but it was the best idea I had at the time). I installed the original fitting with the green o-ring and snugged it down, ran the air purge once, then I very slightly loosened the fitting and ran a second purge. During the second purge, I wiggled the aluminum fitting and eventually heard hissing as the air escaped. Once coolant dripped, I snugged it back up.
@@CrankyGypsy Thanks again for your feedback, great job on your install...Congrats on extending the life of your large drive unit!
I completed mine yesterday. I used a felpro DIY gasket kit to make sure everything sealed properly and instead of removing the top pipe I capped it with silicone caps and a hose clamp. Not easy, but do-able and happy to know I don't have to worry about this issue now. Knowing my luck, my battery will fail next week haha
Just installed the kit, jacked up car in the driveway, took the plastic panelling and wheel off (4 hours total, i have mild experience with this stuff)
1. Main part was easy, cutting and installing the new billet.
2. Cutting and capping the tube was hard, i recommend 2 extensions and a u-joint on the ratchet if you are doing this on the driveway like me.
I had a coolant leak the next day, I think its the same as other users the coolant just keeps leaking onto the silicon and it never really dries, puddle of coolant in the morning. Best thing to do is as people are saying shop-vac out the coolant first or cut a gasket. Replacing the silicon now, will update.
Question for the creator. I see coolant drips from the dust cap where the manifold was cut. I am assuming this is from residual coolant left in the system. Second question, the dust cap that goes onto the inboard part of the drive unit. What pressures does that experience? I am wondering if i should swap that part for an aluminium machined piece.
@@ReinerSchmidt-f7e Good job completing the install! Coolant at the dust cap is residue, it can be blown out with compressed air, or shop vac if desired during the install. For the block off fitting, it sees very low pressure, the most pressure would be during a refill/purge service procedure. The ABS fitting is more than adequate for this pressure and temperature.
Thank you for sharing. I was avoiding LDU's while looking for model S's. This has opened up my options. You have nailed the Y in DIY. I like your approach to an in car way of dealing with the problem. Perhaps using a Y connector and section of hose to direct cooling through the unused gearbox line might be beneficial?
Thanks! Some people have installed a tee to feed the original return tube. I have not found that it is necessary and would rather direct 100% of the flow directly into the stator and inverter.
As i understand its possible to do not removing the motor from car
Now that seems like a doable DIY...thanks Kevin!
I asked the same question on the other delete solution RUclips: What do you think are the future ramifications of removing that cooling? I know that it's 1000% better than having to replace the LDU from the leak itself, but I'm just trying to gather all the data I can. Thanks in advance...preciate'cha!
So far nobody has reported any negative effects of eliminating rotor cooling. With this induction motor, the rotor has no magnets to demagnetize, and can take a lot of heat. I like having increased stator cooling and have noticed as much as 10% lower temperatures during sustained highway speeds. Based on external temperatures, the deleted coolant manifold has an external temperature of approximately 10° C higher than the cooled stator housing after a 30-minute highway heat soak, I did not test this prior to the delete however. I have to think keeping the original part installed with the coolant tube inside the rotor acts as somewhat of a heatsink. Seat of the pants, zero difference, great performance all around. I can't come up with anything that I see even slightly negative compared to the damage the leak does. Like you said, it's a good trade-off.
@@MrMoparMan Thank you so much for the very detailed explanation. I was honestly looking for a solution that didn't involve me having to remove the unit while also checking the box on eliminating this risk. Have you happened to assist anyone with doing this on their Model S? I assume this video was done on Electrolite. EDIT: now that I think about it, it may not make any difference since you mounted the entire Model S subframe into Electrolite.
@@fdhall Yep the video was from the Electrollite, I was able to remove the entire coolant pipe, but there is one fitting that is difficult to get to in the Model S. Instead of removing the entire coolant pipe, it can just be cut and plugged off giving the same results and easing the installation.
Why do you need to remove the tube? If it’s empty and the inlet is sealed with the dust cap, it should be fine right?
Also does the Q variant suffer from this?
@@taustin1382 it will flow backwards through the tube into the rotor if it's not blocked off above the differential. It can be done by either removing the entire tube or just cutting it and removing the section near the differential.
Bravo…very impressed
I understand now the water doesn't go up to the circular section and it flows directly to the stator... but what does deleting the pipe do? How is the cycle flowing? So in the past the water goes into stator and rotor simultaneously then what next?
The coolant pipe was the return flow after the rotor. This return flow would join the stator return at the differential, then continuing on to the radiator. The pipe is no longer needed with no flow to the rotor, but needs to be capped off so that there is no reverse flow through the pipe.
what codes would you see if this unit is starting to fail? bms w035?
Does this apply to a 2015 85D Model S?
That car probably has the small rear drive unit which is not affected, however, I am not 100% sure about all of the different model configurations. The affected motor is the large drive unit (LDU)
Need billet cap. Better use rtv. Does not appear to be high-pressure as a combustion.
Looks like a fix but if there is coolant already in there how this fix going to stop the moisture from corroding the components inside?
That can still be a problem, this is a preventive fix prior to any damage. If the motor already has moisture inside it may need to be rebuilt and then be sure to install a coolant delete kit.
Coolant inside, after 1000 km with high temp 100 degrees celsius? No way:)
Just had an idea, instead of permanently sealing the 'failed liquid cooling' area, is it possible to AIR cool that rotor, attach some kind of gizmo that blows air and extracts air?
@@donx03 Yep totally possible, and relatively simple. I have pushed my car to very high temperatures and have not seen a need yet, but I am all for trying new things.
Does the "u"model LDU suffer this same issue? Tesla just replaced the ldu in my p100d with a reman U variant. Appreciate it!
@@stevedrawdy2532 The U model should be updated as far as I know.
much easyer than Revot systems solution
Do you blow air or dry the inside before sealing it for good?
@@donx03 it's not a bad idea, if you blow from the top down before you plug the bottom casting. It allows any coolant residue to drip out.
What is the pipe diameter for the return coolant pipe we need to cut?
@@dablackgoku1234it's 12 mm.
After the change, apparently the stator cools more. Do you notice lower energy consumption at high highway speeds?
@@boni1970 not something I have noticed or tracked, I will try to log some data.
Changed from the printed coolant hose connector section to welded metal?
Yep, lots of requests for it. Also, a new method to install by cutting the coolant pipe making it easier when installing in the vehicle.
Hi, very helpful, thanks. I read somewhere that with such a solution, the rotor bearings must be replaced with special ones for a higher temperature. Do you think it is necessary?
It's probably a good idea if you're rebuilding the motor. I don't think there's any specific data as these various delete kits are pretty new. It's a pretty small amount of coolant flowing through the rotor to begin with, so it's not a dramatic change.
@MrMoparMan Another thing - I wrote this, what you think? Coolant delete option above that also eliminates the "flyover pipe" reducing coolant flow into gear box could lead to an air pocket forming in the gear box. Note: Tesla U version retains the "fly over pipe".
@@boni1970 I have clear fittings in my system and the air bled out just as quick as always. Since the pipe is connected to the top of the differential, once the system is back together you could bleed the top block off fitting just by taking it loose if desired.
Anybody have any ideas of how to remove some of the coolant if there is a rotor seal leak? I saw one guy on RUclips drilled a hole but not feeling adventurous enough to do that
@@dasppg9737lots of variables if the coolant has leaked past the seal. Drilling the weep hole or installing this kit and blowing out the rotor stops it from leaking further. It's also possible to drill the inverter case, there are some examples in forums.
@@MrMoparMan thanks for your reply. The kit has been ordered. I’d like to remove some residual if there is some. I bought an endoscope camera for inspection
@@MrMoparMan where’s the weep hole? Or if you’re saying to add one where is it added? Tesla should have made a weep hole from the factory.
@@dasppg9737 yeah, a weep hole can be drilled. It's not a fix as much as an indication that the seal has failed and is leaking.
@@MrMoparMan it sounds like a good idea to get any potential coolant out
Re-upload?
Yep, I wanted to revise some things based on install feedback. Not ideal, but decided to just re-upload.
Lol he added the pictures I took when I did the install on my car.
@@jacoblharris Yes, I did, thanks. Your pictures have helped other people!