The main problem that I have had with the older differential is that the axles would pull out of the small gears, and the gears would drop out and roll away.
Yeah I had that with the gray one in the light gray bracket. What I did is I have a 3 long small axle, then the extender piece (idk what is called lol), then just another axle, but a technic beam, so that way the axle won’t be able to get out
True, it always happens in my ford raptor where I did a rc test and although there is a piece that stops the axle from moving, the tiny space is enough for it to slip
Just the fact I don't have to fiddle trying to keep the 5 12-tooth gears in place while adding the axles is big plus. The previous version was a nightmare for my fat sausage fingers.
I don't know why this hasn't been bigger news (that I haven't seen so many other people talking about this). Thank you for letting me know about this awesome new part.
Also, with the idle-gear forces now symmetric and distributed over 3 gears instead of 1, and supported by the smooth circular ridges of the bevel gears instead of the points of the cross-axle holes, this should run a lot smoother under load, too.
They are available in the lego website now. $1.96 the housing, $ 2.24 the red gear, a total of $4.20, definitely their most expensive differential to date.
I have the original differential from the 8860 chassis car. The large gear ring broke off of the rest of the diff body and the 14 tooth bevel gears were a major weakness in the design in that the axles would always slide out.
If you want some form of limited slip differential, you could have one of the output shafts geared to an idler shaft directly, and the other output shaft geared to the same idler shaft thru one or more 24t clutch gears. Or you could use belts and an idler shaft, but that's not able to transfer as much torque between the output shafts. This would be good for a rock crawler model where you need to make tight turns so you do need a differential, but you have a high likelihood of one of the wheels coming off the ground which would leave a model with an open differential stranded.
@@44R0Ndinthis is an old comment, but for the sake of anyone reading, I separately had this same idea (w 24t clutch gears) and tested it. I don’t think it quite works, though, at least not as intended. A true limited slip differential acts as an open differential until sufficient slip occurs to cause it to self-lock. The mechanism described in the comment I’m replying to does the opposite, acting as a fully locked differential until sufficient difference between the output forces causes it to self-open and diff spin freely. This may or may not help in some practical applications. I only tested the mechanism itself rather than a whole vehicle, but I’m struggling to see how a reverse limited slip (limited torque?) differential is beneficial in driving, at least. The best thing that can be said for this design is that it: does diff spin less often than an open differential, simply because it defaults to closed, and it could potentially act as an open diff on corners if the vehicle is heavy enough and the traction great enough to overcome the clutch gear lock… but a vehicle capable of taking advantage of the former will almost certainly be incapable of the latter, and vice versa. So imo you’re best off building a worm gear Torsen diff (and accept the damage said worms WILL take), a locking differential, or choosing between open and closed -my long rambling 2 cents from experience
VERY comprehensive and thorough review of what appears to be a critically important upgrade in LEGO Technic drivetrain components. Or, as Will Smith said in ID4, "I have GOT to get me one of THESE!" 😁😁😁
Bruh! My only differential is the oldest one. I didn't expect that. The newest one in the video though looks really nice like it isn't even Lego at all.
Great video, but the extreme high energy background music does not match. I recommend something less attentive. Otherwise, huge fan! Keep up the great work!
I wonder how easy it would be to make this perform a limited-slip action? I've seen a design that uses belts and an idler shaft to transfer torque from a freewheeling differential output to a held output, but that is limited in the amount of torque it can transfer from side to side. I think a similar but stronger effect could be gained if you were to use clutch gears instead of belts, while keeping the idler shaft. So you would have one differential output that is directly geared to the idler shaft, and the other differential output would be geared to the idler shaft thru one or more 24t clutch gear(s). This would allow you to adjust the amount of torque it takes to make the differential rotate the output shafts at different speeds, which would provide a form of traction control for the wheels attached to the differential.
Old comment and I explain in depth elsewhere, but for future comment readers: the mechanism described here would actually be reverse limited slip differential. It defaults to a locked diff state, but opens freely when the force differentials become too great. It may appear to work under certain conditions, but in general this mechanism will essentially act as a closed diff when you want it open and an open diff when you want it closed. Torsen differentials with worm gears are the only way I know to make a true limited slip diff (warning: part damage) - one that defaults to open, and only closes when the force differential becomes too great. Only other options are a manually locking diff or simply choosing whether you need a diff or solid axle for a given scenario.
I was disappointed with the newest differential. Due to higher torque the red gear pops off of the grey housing and everything stops working. Kinda too bad. I do like the design and will still continue to use it.
I guess that new ability to lock the differential will make it popular amongst those... Ahem, let's say enthusiasts who enjoy pouring glue into their brand new, expensive RC differentials.
@@RacingBrick yes, I mean that one. They are almost identical, buy the pin hole on the 16 tooth side of the red differential protrudes outside a little (about 1mm)
hey racingbrick,i have little question,it's not related to this video but,anyway,im 12 and I have build the 42110 (Land Rover Defender) in bout.... 12h not continuous,is that a good mark? I lost some pieces and I have the cracking issue,but, I have the 1st high and 1st and 2nd low gears work perfectly.so,I wanted to now,what do u think bout the 12h mark of time
I Broke the middle gear of my older Diff as i used a buggymotor to dive it and Put the full Power on it. Also the Main drive gear off my Diff bend all the teeth. But i hate the New one cant be used by my extremly compact under/over gearing becourse it Uses the smaller inputgear. I used always the smaller gear to drive the bigger input directly from the top and used two stackt frames for the whole assambly (if anyone is intrestet, i could make a Video or so. Just contact me 😉 ) Sorry for my englisch, im german
I also have the same problem with the gearing of the new one, but I use 2 buggy motors and it is perfectly fine, and the middle gear should not rotate when going straight so
So I'm working on a steam train moc. I want to power the actual drive wheels all 4 of them by powering one axle and connecting the rest with connecting rods (basically Thomas the tank engine style. However I want to use a differential that way the train can make it through corners easier (kinda like the new train wheels coming out.) However because it's a train it makes it extremely difficult at the frame can only be 4 studs wide. Any way anyone have an idea?
Not strictly new to this set but seen in only two other 2020 sets so far is the spanking new compact Technic Gear Differential Housing in Medium Stone Grey/ Light Bluish Gray (65414 | 6285647) and accompanying driving gear, Technic Gear 28 Tooth Double Bevel with Pin Hole in Bright Red/ Red (65413 | 6285646).
@@RacingBrick you can hear it, it sounds much louder due to the pieces being able to rattle inside of the case. It may run smoothly for a short time but over long term I'm sure the rattling will eventually wear down the small gears. Usually a scraping or grinding noise isn't a good thing when it comes to gears in differentials. I wonder how it will handle in a stress test. Stress test being ran for long extended periods of time.
@@TheRealBmanswan once all 5 gears are in place they are pretty secure and run very smoothly. I did not notice the new one being significantly louder, obviously the wear and tear effect will be visible with time. Once I get my hands on more samples of the new differential I will run further stress tests.
Probably never, because you would need all the wheels in both directions. A ccw helical gear will only mesh with a clockwise helical gear. Also: axial forces...
@@RacingBrick what if I want to ear what you said? And no I won’t turn on subtitles. My point is that the music is too loud compared to your voice and also this isn’t the type of music to put over a voice.
If you use speakers instead of headphones the music is actually much quieter. And you can always turn on subtitles if you have issues with my accent...
@@RacingBrick take a look at 4:47..... left side hand touch axle ,right side axle is free floating if you let your hand loose, you unconsciously make a grasping pose and you touch the axis, this brakes it in the picture on the left
@@axelk4921 I'm glad you know better than me what I was doing :) I can assure you I was not touching the axle, I did the test several times to make sure the difference ia there.
This also has the potential to have different sized ring gears in the future, either from Lego or designed as a custom part. Maybe we'll finally have a system that's compatible with both the bevel gears and spur gears without awkward spacing between the gears.
The new 42143 Ferrari has a new bevel gear for the same housing. It doesn't match any other Lego gears as far as I know, but it looks like it can withstand a lot more torque
Glad LEGO brought back the lock-ring compatibility with it, that was one of the biggest issues with the last design: no simple way to diff-lock! Now LEGO just needs to make the lock-ring more readily available.....
In recent years, new LEGO parts have been a huge letdown such as the new train wheels, PU issues, etc. this thing is awesome! I can’t wait to get some!
Any idea what the third last generation, before the latest new differential would only spin one wheel at a time? Any response would be greatly appreciated, many thanks
Lego is good for learning, and with the new differential it is mush harder to se what is happening in the diff and thereby harder to learn from it... :/ seems good otherwise! :)
So it fits perfectly into Lego's strategy from recent years. Hide all functions, gear boxes and drive trains under panels to make sure no kid can ever learn anything from Lego Technic.
Thank you for the review! I have a question. I'm using the previous generation diff that is 3 studs wide, and constantly have problems with the half shafts sliding off the bevels and popping out of the diff under high load. Do you know if this diff has helped that at all?
The differential itself won't hold the axles better, it has the same bevel gears inside. You need to construct the housing around the differential to ensure it stays in place. You can see an example in the Top Gear Rally car where we have a 5.5 long axle on one side, and there are cross blocks on the other side to ensure the axles have no space to move.
For a lego rc car I have prefered to use a bit of glue for the front axle. The rear one has no problem, but the Universal joint in the front axle let a free play especially when the steering is at full right or full left. But you cannot ask to much to the lego, it's a toy not "real" rc car. Even with just the torque of a XL-power_fonction motor, you can break gears, dissasemble universal joint...
Háát terepjárókra mindenkép jobb, mivel a nyomatékot ezen keresztül is lényegesen lehet növelni, és a plusz 2 belső kúpkerék miatt masszívabb is, de gyorsabbaknál inkább a régit használnám, egyrészt az áttétel miatt, és mert az kevésbé ugrik ki alul. Szóval kisebb autókban egyáltalán nem látom értelmét, de határozottan van jövője.
I wanna get my hands on a few of the new ones, just wish these double-bevel gears had a proper tooth profile cut into them. The bevel teeth are cut right, but the teeth you'd use for a normal mesh are square cut and bind up, run loud, wear like crazy. And god help you if you try to mesh them with the properly cut old style straight cut gears. WTF, Lego?
The main problem that I have had with the older differential is that the axles would pull out of the small gears, and the gears would drop out and roll away.
Same problem lol
Same here with mine. I have 2 of them now (one clone and one genuine) and the other one is damaged.
Yeah I had that with the gray one in the light gray bracket. What I did is I have a 3 long small axle, then the extender piece (idk what is called lol), then just another axle, but a technic beam, so that way the axle won’t be able to get out
True, it always happens in my ford raptor where I did a rc test and although there is a piece that stops the axle from moving, the tiny space is enough for it to slip
This is an good differential. Thanks for reviewing
Tgp
"a"
Just the fact I don't have to fiddle trying to keep the 5 12-tooth gears in place while adding the axles is big plus. The previous version was a nightmare for my fat sausage fingers.
I don't know why this hasn't been bigger news (that I haven't seen so many other people talking about this). Thank you for letting me know about this awesome new part.
Also, with the idle-gear forces now symmetric and distributed over 3 gears instead of 1, and supported by the smooth circular ridges of the bevel gears instead of the points of the cross-axle holes, this should run a lot smoother under load, too.
We were this close to greatness
So true. I've had so many problems with the idle gear in the second generation diff. This new design is better in almost every way.
I'm glad I no longer have to assemble the new differential every time!
finnaly a differential that is not 4 studs long and can be driven perpendicurarly. perfect for my all terrain pickup truck moc :D
They are available in the lego website now. $1.96 the housing, $ 2.24 the red gear, a total of $4.20, definitely their most expensive differential to date.
I’m sorry I’m advance.
I don’t smoke’ but internet humor compells me to say it:
Blaze it!
I was confused on how it was better. Now it’s clear with this video. Thanks a lot!
Great run through! Thank you. I was looking at it earlier wondering what all the pros were. Really looking forward to seeing how this one is used
I like the 2nd gen differential the most. Two-speed operation with no transmission and being able to lock it is a huge deal.
This come in the 42114? Only has one second gen driffential. Use for Center driffential
And the new differential looks like a real car diff, unlike the older one 😉
I'm just annoyed Lego didn't use it in the Land Rover Defender
Old
New
Current
Future
I have the original differential from the 8860 chassis car. The large gear ring broke off of the rest of the diff body and the 14 tooth bevel gears were a major weakness in the design in that the axles would always slide out.
Yes! Finally a new design. This is wat more cooler than I expected.
I'm waiting for my lego Torsen diff
If you want some form of limited slip differential, you could have one of the output shafts geared to an idler shaft directly, and the other output shaft geared to the same idler shaft thru one or more 24t clutch gears. Or you could use belts and an idler shaft, but that's not able to transfer as much torque between the output shafts.
This would be good for a rock crawler model where you need to make tight turns so you do need a differential, but you have a high likelihood of one of the wheels coming off the ground which would leave a model with an open differential stranded.
www.shapeways.com/product/VP2EZPT6M/torsen-diff-36-z
@@44R0Ndinthis is an old comment, but for the sake of anyone reading, I separately had this same idea (w 24t clutch gears) and tested it. I don’t think it quite works, though, at least not as intended. A true limited slip differential acts as an open differential until sufficient slip occurs to cause it to self-lock. The mechanism described in the comment I’m replying to does the opposite, acting as a fully locked differential until sufficient difference between the output forces causes it to self-open and diff spin freely. This may or may not help in some practical applications. I only tested the mechanism itself rather than a whole vehicle, but I’m struggling to see how a reverse limited slip (limited torque?) differential is beneficial in driving, at least. The best thing that can be said for this design is that it: does diff spin less often than an open differential, simply because it defaults to closed, and it could potentially act as an open diff on corners if the vehicle is heavy enough and the traction great enough to overcome the clutch gear lock… but a vehicle capable of taking advantage of the former will almost certainly be incapable of the latter, and vice versa. So imo you’re best off building a worm gear Torsen diff (and accept the damage said worms WILL take), a locking differential, or choosing between open and closed -my long rambling 2 cents from experience
Good review!! The difference in differential, The new differential differences the rest!!
VERY comprehensive and thorough review of what appears to be a critically important upgrade in LEGO Technic drivetrain components.
Or, as Will Smith said in ID4, "I have GOT to get me one of THESE!" 😁😁😁
I liked the older one the better because it actually resembles a real diff.
The newer one has definitely better functionality though.
no the newer one resembles a real diff! :)
www.google.com/search?q=audi+differential&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&prmd=sinv&sxsrf=ALeKk00jv3QsqYtoWxfZOq2ZIsSsWwtAsg:1591818317111&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx-NmqgfjpAhWG16QKHYtgB4gQ_AUoAnoECA4QAg&biw=412&bih=766&dpr=3.5#imgrc=AvLvu6Eq2pGX8M&imgdii=YY25IkuRlBsGJM
@@derHERRderVIERringe www.google.com/search?q=differential&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwikyNL3jPjpAhVJtKQKHbo2CaEQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=differential&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzICCAAyBAgAEEMyAggAMgIIADICCAAyBAgAEEMyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAUKihAViooQFg5qMBaABwAHgAgAFHiAFHkgEBMZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1n&sclient=img&ei=d0ThXuSwD8nokgW67aSICg&bih=766&biw=412&client=ms-android-samsung-gs-rev1&prmd=sinv
There were Corner-Gears for the old differential, although they may be rare now.
music bit too loud, but nice video :)
Now that is cool technology.
Thanks! this review was very helpful for me, I think I will be better off starting out messing with the last version
Bruh! My only differential is the oldest one. I didn't expect that. The newest one in the video though looks really nice like it isn't even Lego at all.
I like how you can also use the red gear part as a normal gear using a normal frictionless pin
why you would do that??
@@derHERRderVIERringe ok
Great video, but the extreme high energy background music does not match. I recommend something less attentive. Otherwise, huge fan! Keep up the great work!
Yeah, that was some time ago, I still experimented with background music :)
Thank you for the detailed explanations.
Feel like a drive ring like the 2 generation would be nice to have for a "chain drive".
this new brick looks cool!
The differential housing which can be locked is golden. (1:30)
Didn't know it was possible like that.
I wonder how easy it would be to make this perform a limited-slip action? I've seen a design that uses belts and an idler shaft to transfer torque from a freewheeling differential output to a held output, but that is limited in the amount of torque it can transfer from side to side. I think a similar but stronger effect could be gained if you were to use clutch gears instead of belts, while keeping the idler shaft.
So you would have one differential output that is directly geared to the idler shaft, and the other differential output would be geared to the idler shaft thru one or more 24t clutch gear(s).
This would allow you to adjust the amount of torque it takes to make the differential rotate the output shafts at different speeds, which would provide a form of traction control for the wheels attached to the differential.
Old comment and I explain in depth elsewhere, but for future comment readers: the mechanism described here would actually be reverse limited slip differential. It defaults to a locked diff state, but opens freely when the force differentials become too great. It may appear to work under certain conditions, but in general this mechanism will essentially act as a closed diff when you want it open and an open diff when you want it closed. Torsen differentials with worm gears are the only way I know to make a true limited slip diff (warning: part damage) - one that defaults to open, and only closes when the force differential becomes too great. Only other options are a manually locking diff or simply choosing whether you need a diff or solid axle for a given scenario.
perfect video also a good touch to history. thank you
Good video but hard to hear you over the music, tone that down.
I don't know what other people's first thought. my first thought was you can make a four-wheel drive vehicles that can be two wheel drive also easy
Super cool, makes me jealous I don't play with those technics or Legos anymore
I think it's the diff I just ordered and I can't wait to try it !
Oh those pieces are a new differential 😃
Thanks for the video, I'll probably order a few of the new differentials from Lego replacement parts.
Yes
I think this new diff will be _great_ for trials trucks!
Ok
I was disappointed with the newest differential. Due to higher torque the red gear pops off of the grey housing and everything stops working. Kinda too bad. I do like the design and will still continue to use it.
so it's a combination of all prev generations
Hungary hungragy :DD great channel
hopefully they add the new differnetial to their digital designer
That redd gear can also have a gear nested inside it for a more standard torque pass-thru.
nice review, cheers mate. Think I'll subscribe :-).
Only issue I have is that you can't see the gears
I would rather the differential before the new one (i think its better)
I want to buy this set
HELP HOW TO DISASEMBLY THE NEW DIFERENYIAL
I guess that new ability to lock the differential will make it popular amongst those... Ahem, let's say enthusiasts who enjoy pouring glue into their brand new, expensive RC differentials.
Cool, I need 25 of them
Bedankt!
You missed the Red differential introduced in 42069
You mean the one introduced in red in 42070 and also appeared in 42110? :) That's only a color variation of the one you see in the middle.
@@RacingBrick yes, I mean that one. They are almost identical, buy the pin hole on the 16 tooth side of the red differential protrudes outside a little (about 1mm)
But you can change old to new one without problems?
1:47, that's not true, there was a special gear with angled teeth that could drive the diff from a transverse axle.
edit: the crown gear.
I can’t think of anyway do not choose the new differential over the older one.
is it possible to configure it with a different count of gears?
hey racingbrick,i have little question,it's not related to this video but,anyway,im 12 and I have build the 42110 (Land Rover Defender) in bout.... 12h not continuous,is that a good mark? I lost some pieces and I have the cracking issue,but, I have the 1st high and 1st and 2nd low gears work perfectly.so,I wanted to now,what do u think bout the 12h mark of time
there is no good/bad time mark. it is LEGO, you should enjoy building it. and not check you're Watch while doing it. #LEGOistimeless
@@basberend I didn't have a watch on hand,I got it 24th night and finished it 25th afternoon,the 12h mark is,what I think it is.
It is not a race, just enjoy building and have fun with the set at the end
I Broke the middle gear of my older Diff as i used a buggymotor to dive it and Put the full Power on it. Also the Main drive gear off my Diff bend all the teeth.
But i hate the New one cant be used by my extremly compact under/over gearing becourse it Uses the smaller inputgear. I used always the smaller gear to drive the bigger input directly from the top and used two stackt frames for the whole assambly (if anyone is intrestet, i could make a Video or so. Just contact me 😉 )
Sorry for my englisch, im german
I also have the same problem with the gearing of the new one, but I use 2 buggy motors and it is perfectly fine, and the middle gear should not rotate when going straight so
So I'm working on a steam train moc. I want to power the actual drive wheels all 4 of them by powering one axle and connecting the rest with connecting rods (basically Thomas the tank engine style. However I want to use a differential that way the train can make it through corners easier (kinda like the new train wheels coming out.) However because it's a train it makes it extremely difficult at the frame can only be 4 studs wide. Any way anyone have an idea?
Balázs?! na ez meglepett
amúgy háló magyarok
Can someone please post the element numbers for the individual parts?
Not strictly new to this set but seen in only two other 2020 sets so far is the spanking new compact Technic Gear Differential Housing in Medium Stone Grey/ Light Bluish Gray (65414 | 6285647) and accompanying driving gear, Technic Gear 28 Tooth Double Bevel with Pin Hole in Bright Red/ Red (65413 | 6285646).
Sounds like the new model has a ton of more friction. Makes sense since the pieces are pretty much floating.
Where did you see that? If you check the free rotation comparison the new one seems to rotate more easily
@@RacingBrick you can hear it, it sounds much louder due to the pieces being able to rattle inside of the case. It may run smoothly for a short time but over long term I'm sure the rattling will eventually wear down the small gears. Usually a scraping or grinding noise isn't a good thing when it comes to gears in differentials. I wonder how it will handle in a stress test. Stress test being ran for long extended periods of time.
@@TheRealBmanswan once all 5 gears are in place they are pretty secure and run very smoothly. I did not notice the new one being significantly louder, obviously the wear and tear effect will be visible with time. Once I get my hands on more samples of the new differential I will run further stress tests.
My differential is damaged
Ou acheté juste le différentiel en lui même ? Sans avoir à acheter le reste de la voiture ( bien trop cher pour se que s'est..) merci
It is not available yet
@@RacingBrickoh shit :( thanks :)
Cost...
Helical cut gears when?
Probably never, because you would need all the wheels in both directions. A ccw helical gear will only mesh with a clockwise helical gear. Also: axial forces...
@@oldrageface8706 I think I was talking about like a Lego Torsen differential, but I don't really remember.
Thanks for the informative video, but please remove the background music.
That music though....
That comment though...
Hello Balázs! meg tudod esetleg mondani az új difi háznak és a hozzá tartoró fogaskerék számát?
6285646 & 6285647
@@RacingBrick Köszönöm!
jól hallottam balázst mondtál
szerintem igen
Background music make the video impossible to watch...
Let me help you with the news of the century - RUclips has volume control *and* a mute button! You're welcome.
@@RacingBrick what if I want to ear what you said? And no I won’t turn on subtitles.
My point is that the music is too loud compared to your voice and also this isn’t the type of music to put over a voice.
🤔👍
His voice too deep
Please turn off the music, I can not understand you.
Please turn on the subtitles
Szerintem magyar vagy. ;)
Szerintem is :D
Why did LEGO use the big 4 port hub instead of the smaller 2 port one in this set? You can find it out here - ruclips.net/video/vq1M4aIy3sQ/видео.html
"the next generation were different" That's why it's called differential. duh.
Who cares about the music in the background. Turn it down so we can hear what you are saying. It's very difficult with your accent.
If you use speakers instead of headphones the music is actually much quieter. And you can always turn on subtitles if you have issues with my accent...
This might just be me, but this doesn’t feel like LEGO anymore
Its just u 🤦♂️
at 4:47 you can see clearly that you are "blocking" the left gear with your middlefinger, so the staitment that the new is better is false
He is not blocking anything
I'm not sure what are you seeing there clearly, I was holding the frame in a similar way with both differentials
@@RacingBrick take a look at 4:47.....
left side hand touch axle ,right side axle is free floating
if you let your hand loose, you unconsciously make a grasping pose
and you touch the axis, this brakes it in the picture on the left
@@axelk4921 I'm glad you know better than me what I was doing :) I can assure you I was not touching the axle, I did the test several times to make sure the difference ia there.
That means theoreticaly i can slap on a dif-lock and quickly turn it in to a drift-car
If you have a buggy motor!
You can see it in my main review video without a differential, it turns slower and has a bigger turning radius, pretty much that's all you get
Ok
we use metal to build differential.
This also has the potential to have different sized ring gears in the future, either from Lego or designed as a custom part. Maybe we'll finally have a system that's compatible with both the bevel gears and spur gears without awkward spacing between the gears.
The new 42143 Ferrari has a new bevel gear for the same housing. It doesn't match any other Lego gears as far as I know, but it looks like it can withstand a lot more torque
Glad LEGO brought back the lock-ring compatibility with it, that was one of the biggest issues with the last design: no simple way to diff-lock!
Now LEGO just needs to make the lock-ring more readily available.....
Thank god it's enclosed. I'm tired of the axle of the bevel gear getting pushed into the middle of the differential and locking it up!
XevianLight this
This part fixes this problem:
www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=99008&idColor=2#T=C&C=2
@@caelinbuenger7095 yes but not when you need a 3 or 5 stud long axle
In recent years, new LEGO parts have been a huge letdown such as the new train wheels, PU issues, etc. this thing is awesome! I can’t wait to get some!
Any idea what the third last generation, before the latest new differential would only spin one wheel at a time?
Any response would be greatly appreciated, many thanks
I would use the new differential to make a offroad vihicle, because in these cases it is useful to be able to lock the differential
Thumbs down for the really annoying ‘music’...
Is this upgrade done only with parts of the old transmission?
Could you put numbers of parts used in video?
Lego is good for learning, and with the new differential it is mush harder to se what is happening in the diff and thereby harder to learn from it... :/ seems good otherwise! :)
True, they should make a clear version like the wormgear housing
So it fits perfectly into Lego's strategy from recent years. Hide all functions, gear boxes and drive trains under panels to make sure no kid can ever learn anything from Lego Technic.
Thank you for the review! I have a question. I'm using the previous generation diff that is 3 studs wide, and constantly have problems with the half shafts sliding off the bevels and popping out of the diff under high load. Do you know if this diff has helped that at all?
The differential itself won't hold the axles better, it has the same bevel gears inside. You need to construct the housing around the differential to ensure it stays in place. You can see an example in the Top Gear Rally car where we have a 5.5 long axle on one side, and there are cross blocks on the other side to ensure the axles have no space to move.
For a lego rc car I have prefered to use a bit of glue for the front axle.
The rear one has no problem, but the Universal joint in the front axle let a free play especially when the steering is at full right or full left.
But you cannot ask to much to the lego, it's a toy not "real" rc car.
Even with just the torque of a XL-power_fonction motor, you can break gears, dissasemble universal joint...
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Szia Balázs! Jólett a videó!
I have the oldest one i never knew what it was for
Can you use the red gear alone without the differential housing ?
Does not do much alone, there's a similarly sized gear that was in 42100 as well
Háát terepjárókra mindenkép jobb, mivel a nyomatékot ezen keresztül is lényegesen lehet növelni, és a plusz 2 belső kúpkerék miatt masszívabb is, de gyorsabbaknál inkább a régit használnám, egyrészt az áttétel miatt, és mert az kevésbé ugrik ki alul. Szóval kisebb autókban egyáltalán nem látom értelmét, de határozottan van jövője.
I wanna get my hands on a few of the new ones, just wish these double-bevel gears had a proper tooth profile cut into them. The bevel teeth are cut right, but the teeth you'd use for a normal mesh are square cut and bind up, run loud, wear like crazy. And god help you if you try to mesh them with the properly cut old style straight cut gears.
WTF, Lego?
Where do you order thees parts??