I'm new to leather work but I'm a rather old hand at blades and edges. It was my trade for a spell. Your method is very sound. With minor variations, I do the same. I've gone away from stones, by and large, because I feel like I need to lap them too often. Instead, I use PSA abrasive paper affixed to glass circles from 600-10,000 grit, then Chrome-Oxide (30k grit) abrasive compound with lard on one side of the strop, bullhide on the other. After those, I use a strop made of goat wool to deburr. One note on your strop that I've pointed out to other knife makers: If you lift the edge whilst you're stropping, you will very likely round the edge, even if very accomplished at sharpening. How much this matters, of course, is up to yourself. It is a time consuming process, but, with each strop stroke I strop, stop, and lift. It helps me maintain a more precise angle, and, I find that it is a break even on time because it reduces the frequency with which I have to strop. Then again, I have 6 decades behind me and I'm retired. So, time is a less critical commodity.
A very useful and accurate video. I followed your advice , apart from using diamond plates. I just spent the last 3 hours on my new single head knife. Very satisfying to finally remove the burr! Thank you.
Thank you Jo. I inherited a head knife with no idea of how to properly sharpen it so I have been using straight blades and disposable knives. This will help alot. Guy
I see you also sharpen awls on the carbide stones (I seem to have a stone or two that are similarly marked). Would be interested in your take on sharpening awls. Good video. Thanks...
Hi, Yet another great how to video. I am new to leather working so need to ask, do you have a 'how to' for prepping the strop board for use, i.e applying the tallow etc.?
Heya Tina, glad you found the video helpful 🙂 I don't have a strop board set up video I am afraid. If you email me on info@jhleather.co.uk I can help you out 👍
Nicely done, you might want to have a try with a diamond hone paste, on the strop instead of oil and carborundum powder. TORMEC n the UK supply a tube for less than £10. It's very fast cutting, doesn't require rechrging very often and will leave razor sharp edge on any steel. All the best Mat
I appreciate that the speed at which you work, particularly on the paddle strop, is a reflection of your close familiarity with the process, but given this film is intended to teach people, I would have taken it much more slowly. As you know, an incorrect angle of approach on the strop can dull an edge very quickly, and the curved edge of a head knife presents particular challenges, particularly if you are sharpening a full 180 degree (or more) blade edge. Sorry to criticise: just my point of view.
Thank you for your feedback, I did think when I was editing that I didn't film much of the stropping at a slower speed for beginners to see what I was doing . I will try and remember for the next video 😁
It seems like this is the place for unsolicited advice, so here are my 2¢: the knife should be sharp by 1000 grit. If it isn’t, there is no point moving forward. Also, you can speed up the deburring by alternating strokes once you get to the strop. Strop once on the left, turn it over and strop once on the right side. The burr breaks off because of metal fatigue, so if you bend it back and forth more it will break off sooner, revealing that very sharp edge. Then continue polishing until you like the look of it. Thanks for the video.
Jo. Your head knife has a very unique shape. I looked online and most of them are symmetrical with the handle. It almost looks like you reshaped one side to that stout, round section. Yours looks so much easier to control and see what you are cutting. Can you explain where this one came from? Thanks.
You can get single head knives from Abbey England if you are in the UK. They are quite cheap and a good place to start if you want to get more into leatherwork but don't want to spend too much.
The Abbey ones are really good, I've got 4 from them for my courses and once sharpened there are ace. They do need quite a lot of work to start with but worth it.
Hi, Thanks for the video. A question about the half head knife in the video. Is it a commercially available knife or is it a custom made /forged knife.? All the best.
@@JHLeather Thanks for the reply, I already have a Barnsley knife but it is a little thin for my liking and also have an old CS Osborne that had a huge chip out of one side that I cut down to a Half head knife., but its a bit big. It might be time tor me to have a go at forging one out of some 1065 steel I have. , I like how yours has some thickness to the tang and back or blade then tapers down to the edge.. Thanks again. All the best.
Hi Jo, I just tried to buy this knife on Etsy but it is coming up with an error. Do you happen to know if your friend is still selling them or if not a good alternative? Thank you, Sam : ) x
Denis is no longer making them but can get a similar one here: www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife (I have 4 of these knives for use on my courses and they are great)
The one I use is handmade by a friend, but he is no longer making them. You can get a similar one here www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife
i watched this again Jo, I think I will try and use the stone in the manner you show see if it makes the process any faster for removing nicks / chips. I finished my Half Header Knife build and its proven far better than a stanley type knife already. I want to tweak the blade shape a bit once Ive given it a good work out on a couple of projects, Here is the link - ruclips.net/video/5ZCJ8hoP3AY/видео.html
I'm new to leather work but I'm a rather old hand at blades and edges. It was my trade for a spell. Your method is very sound. With minor variations, I do the same. I've gone away from stones, by and large, because I feel like I need to lap them too often. Instead, I use PSA abrasive paper affixed to glass circles from 600-10,000 grit, then Chrome-Oxide (30k grit) abrasive compound with lard on one side of the strop, bullhide on the other. After those, I use a strop made of goat wool to deburr. One note on your strop that I've pointed out to other knife makers: If you lift the edge whilst you're stropping, you will very likely round the edge, even if very accomplished at sharpening. How much this matters, of course, is up to yourself. It is a time consuming process, but, with each strop stroke I strop, stop, and lift. It helps me maintain a more precise angle, and, I find that it is a break even on time because it reduces the frequency with which I have to strop. Then again, I have 6 decades behind me and I'm retired. So, time is a less critical commodity.
A very useful and accurate video. I followed your advice , apart from using diamond plates. I just spent the last 3 hours on my new single head knife. Very satisfying to finally remove the burr! Thank you.
That's great! Glad to hear that the video has helped you 😀
Thank you Jo. I inherited a head knife with no idea of how to properly sharpen it so I have been using straight blades and disposable knives.
This will help alot.
Guy
I see you also sharpen awls on the carbide stones (I seem to have a stone or two that are similarly marked). Would be interested in your take on sharpening awls. Good video. Thanks...
Thanks for the video. Great help for a beginner had no idea how to sharpen a head knife 😊
Hi, Yet another great how to video. I am new to leather working so need to ask, do you have a 'how to' for prepping the strop board for use, i.e applying the tallow etc.?
Heya Tina, glad you found the video helpful 🙂 I don't have a strop board set up video I am afraid. If you email me on info@jhleather.co.uk I can help you out 👍
Hey thanks for the great instruction - consistently exceptional.
Nicely done, you might want to have a try with a diamond hone paste, on the strop instead of oil and carborundum powder. TORMEC n the UK supply a tube for less than £10. It's very fast cutting, doesn't require rechrging very often and will leave razor sharp edge on any steel. All the best Mat
Ooooo nice, will have a look at that
Hi, is that the PA 70 paste? Want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks.
Can you tell me who made your knife? I really like the shape but the link you show of where to buy it doesn't work.
Please tell me the site where I can buy Aertal
I appreciate that the speed at which you work, particularly on the paddle strop, is a reflection of your close familiarity with the process, but given this film is intended to teach people, I would have taken it much more slowly. As you know, an incorrect angle of approach on the strop can dull an edge very quickly, and the curved edge of a head knife presents particular challenges, particularly if you are sharpening a full 180 degree (or more) blade edge. Sorry to criticise: just my point of view.
Thank you for your feedback, I did think when I was editing that I didn't film much of the stropping at a slower speed for beginners to see what I was doing . I will try and remember for the next video 😁
It seems like this is the place for unsolicited advice, so here are my 2¢: the knife should be sharp by 1000 grit. If it isn’t, there is no point moving forward. Also, you can speed up the deburring by alternating strokes once you get to the strop. Strop once on the left, turn it over and strop once on the right side. The burr breaks off because of metal fatigue, so if you bend it back and forth more it will break off sooner, revealing that very sharp edge. Then continue polishing until you like the look of it.
Thanks for the video.
On your strop there, are you using the flesh side or the top grain?
I have it so the flesh side is out 👍
Jo. Your head knife has a very unique shape. I looked online and most of them are symmetrical with the handle. It almost looks like you reshaped one side to that stout, round section. Yours looks so much easier to control and see what you are cutting. Can you explain where this one came from? Thanks.
Nevermind. I had to watch the very end to answer my question.
You can get single head knives from Abbey England if you are in the UK. They are quite cheap and a good place to start if you want to get more into leatherwork but don't want to spend too much.
The Abbey ones are really good, I've got 4 from them for my courses and once sharpened there are ace. They do need quite a lot of work to start with but worth it.
@@JHLeather Do get it from Abbey though, the same knife is for sale on ebay for over twice the price of Abbey.
Hi, Thanks for the video. A question about the half head knife in the video. Is it a commercially available knife or is it a custom made /forged knife.? All the best.
Hello, the knife I have is custom made but you can get a similar one from George Barnsley and sons, it's a single head knife 👍
@@JHLeather Thanks for the reply, I already have a Barnsley knife but it is a little thin for my liking and also have an old CS Osborne that had a huge chip out of one side that I cut down to a Half head knife., but its a bit big. It might be time tor me to have a go at forging one out of some 1065 steel I have. , I like how yours has some thickness to the tang and back or blade then tapers down to the edge.. Thanks again. All the best.
Hi Jo, I just tried to buy this knife on Etsy but it is coming up with an error. Do you happen to know if your friend is still selling them or if not a good alternative? Thank you, Sam : ) x
Denis is no longer making them but can get a similar one here: www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife (I have 4 of these knives for use on my courses and they are great)
👍👍👍muy bien
Thanks Julián 🙂
Where do you buy your head knife?
The one I use is handmade by a friend, but he is no longer making them. You can get a similar one here www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/saddlers-head-knife
А почему ты не добавляешь воду когда работаешь с наждачной бумагой??
Hello, though you can use water with wet and dry paper you don't necessarily need to. I just prefer not to.
@@JHLeather oookkk, understand🤝
what about the heat treatement to use it for long time
i watched this again Jo, I think I will try and use the stone in the manner you show see if it makes the process any faster for removing nicks / chips. I finished my Half Header Knife build and its proven far better than a stanley type knife already. I want to tweak the blade shape a bit once Ive given it a good work out on a couple of projects, Here is the link - ruclips.net/video/5ZCJ8hoP3AY/видео.html
Like a opinel)))