I tried to cover everything and I am not selling parts like some other videos. I also did it along side my house and installed it in my driveway. This way it give others confidence to do it themselves.
David Lis thank you . Watching rebuild videos that use a million bucks worth of tools and garage don't give me the confidence to do this myself like your series does.
David Lis I continue to go back to your videos to refresh my memory on engine building and engine disassembley, us novice gearheads have to love your approach. Thank you , great job.
yessssssss! I feel the same. First time builder and I have this exact motor in my 94 pickup. I plan to pull the motor and rebuild it just like he's doing! I'll be doing it in my driveway. I will be using this video step by step! Thank you for your time and effort sir! Shout out from Lansing Michigan!
Hi David! Your series helped me through the entire process on my very first small block 350 rebuild, which was a true mess. The engine sat in another truck for 16 years without the shelter of the intake manifold, valve covers or the hood. When I took it apart, it looked like something you pulled out of the Titanic shipwreck on the inside (I’m pretty sure there were barnacles growing too) as everything was badly rusted and fused together. People called me crazy, but I believed I could do it. I never considered myself mechanically inclined and the best I ever did was change my oil and a starter on my wife’s Tahoe. With quite a bit of elbow grease, I took the engine apart and got everything over to the machine shop where they restored the same heads and block to it’s original glory. I watched your rebuild series over and over again. The outcome was a beautiful engine done right by your instructions. I cannot tell you how much I enjoyed watching your series. Thank you for everything! Oh and for those who called me crazy, I’m driving with the same engine in my 74 K20 now. Look at me now! Cheers! :-)
Thanks David, this video makes it feel like we are in the 50's or 60's putting a engine back together in someones backyard over a weekend to get it ready to go back in car and go out hot rodding
Good job on the video. Sure it is not perfect but sure helps out. Those who's only job is to complain about someone video can just go make their own video if they think they can do better. Thank you for taking the time and effort in the video. Nice Job.
I don't need to make my own video, I have been working on engines for over 50 years, and I really don't understand why he installed the crank before the cam shaft. Every time it clanked I winced. Also, just a little squirt of lube oil is not enough. I use a 50/50 mix oil and STP. Still every one to their own.
My son and I are just starting on a 350 SBC, I've watched your 3 dismantling and 3 assembling. Neither one of us have a clue what we are doing but I think now we have a chance. thanks so much.
Thank God, someone out there that actually pre-oils bearings during installation. Too many people just put it together and then you have instant failure.
I never got to learn much about cars as a kid, but oh boy every day you’d bet I’d be out staring at my moms engine. Looking at it and trying to figure out what it all meant. You’re really helping a beginner understand what applies to what and the assembly process. Thanks man 🤘
I thank you David you are a very good teacher .you have learned me a great doll .this is December 18 2022 fixing to put new head gasket s again another 350 reset the heads put new oil pump in .thanks man hope you doing good now days
David Good job putting the camshaft in first!! I have been an engine builder for over thirty years and the first thing you install after the cam bearings is the camshaft. If one of the cam bearings got nicked during installation and has to come back out. having a crankshaft and rods installed already is really going to mess up your day when you have to take it all back apart After you have lubricated and installed the cam and know that it spins freely you can take it back out and assemble the bottom end. You are the only one I have seen in any of the you tube engine builds that installed the cam first. Again good job!
Thank you for such an easy to follow and understand video! Some of the others on YT zip past the details so fast, and / or don't explain (clearly) and are difficult to follow. I've never done an engine rebuild before, but I have a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne which I'm building confidence to restore, and with your very clear videos, it's kinda taking the mystery and fear out of doing it. You are an excellent video teacher. Again, thank you.
Thank you. Take your time and watch how you take it apart. Take pictures so you don't have to remember or doubt yourself. Do a little at a time and re watch the video for the areas you are not 100% comfortable with. You can do it. The first one is the hardest. Then you get bragging rights.
Nice video I enjoyed it. I have seen people many times build an engine the same way this guy does using motor oil as they go for lubrication and the engines ran for many years without problems..Lots of old school mechanics used to use STP as an assembly lube...
I like the video hats off to ya. have to add when I check my rings I use my pistons to set the rings in the cylinder so I can have a consistent depth an level to measure ring gaps.
thank you for the video. I'm going to restore a SBC 350 from the mid 80's and this series has taken a lot of mystery out of the rebuild. I've tried to read through the comments as they should shed some light on opinions from other experienced wrench turners. it seems as though some type of lube on essentially everything is a good idea. Nitrile gloves would be a good idea, as well as being in a garage and not outside would be a good idea. I'll continue to watch these and other videos on rebuilds but I appreciate you taking the time to make this video.
Can't wait to get started on my 350, Thank you David for making this video, this takes me back to my high school days with our auto shop teacher, Question: the pistons and other items to rebuild who would you recommend to get the parts from ?
I am a universe person, what comes around, goes around. If you help someone get what they want, someone, somewhere, somehow, will help you get what you want.
any engine i rebuilt i do, I always lubed during installation regardless, rings are dry you do not want to scratch those sensitive cylinder walls before the rings are broken into during initial startup, and yes you do not rev any rebuilt motor in any stage after startup as the oil needs to reach its velocity to flow and lubricate the Internal parts of the motor as per specifications , that's my 50 cents people do things differently I guess
Thank you I make these video to share my knowledge because who is going to teach you this? I am not sell parts or services like some of the other videos. Here is my results: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
Thank you sir! Very much, you have inspired me to learn this stuff. Wish I had the money for school or buy a dam used engine to take apart n learn, worse moment of my life and with a son... but I’ll try to learn this n move on with my life. Thank you!
Ok first thanks for this video awesome as always. On to my question, so I am getting ready to drop in my crankshaft in my 1996 Lexus Ls400. I place all of the main bearing in set in the crank, nothing wrong. Place the thrust bearing in and now the crank won’t sit in. I measure it and its 2.44mm so it’s within spec. what do you think is wrong?
If the oil channel in the main bearings had to be narrowly zig-zagged (5.51) such that more area would be in direct contact with the oil, would the bearings last longer? Very educational video, congratulations.
When I was an apprentice, I was always taught to install the cam shaft before the crank, that way you have good access to get your hands on it to guide it without clanking it and causing any damage, I have used this method for over 60 years, and I see no reason to change.
No assembly lube? I've never built an engine without using some type of assembly lube to help with lubrication and friction on initial start. I wonder how long these bearing are going to last.
If your bitchin about assembly lube, you must not be very old... OR you haven't built very many engines, you use what you got in a pinch, this case, oil is fine... Why you think they give torque specs in lube AND oil, for just lube jobs?!? Get a clue... Guess that's just one difference between the book/video learning and the real world...
4malulz I've been building engines for over 30 years. I don't do it for a living, it's a hobby. I've built Fords, Chevys, big block and small block roller, solid and hydraulic, stock hp all the way up to 600hp and I've never assembled an engine without lube and I've never had one fail. Cheap insurance.
I agree it's cheap insurance, and nice to have and use on any build. I'm not saying assembly lube is a bad thing at all. I'm only stating that using oil in an assembly IS an accepted way of doing it. I for one, am glad to see this rebuild go like it did, maybe some people will see that this will workout for him. Like I stated previously, if he primes the oil pump very well before 1st start, I don't see much that would go wrong doing it this way... I'm not recommending this way either, BUT it is an accepted way of doing it, and others need to learn that and not disrespect this guy doing the best he can with an outside rebuild. Of course we can get all anal about the matter, but I've seen many ol' skoolers build with this method. The key to building this way and getting longer life out of the material is to prime the hell out of the oil pump, I"ve also seen builds like this where they swear no less than 30 minutes on a drill priming the engine before the last piece, dist, goes in and the initial start. I will also agree there will be less wear on break-in times using assm lube. I agree, but this is still an accepted method, that's all I"m saying. Hell, I didn't like seeing no assembly lube used either, but if he does everything right, oiling the heads, priming, etc. he should have no problems. That's all I'm saying... I see zero problems so far, only a little rough on the parts... I think he deserves SOME credit... as far as I can tell, he's done an excellent job. The only question I have is did he Plastigage everything, or just accept general tolerences, did he measure all the ring gaps, or just a couple? But the assembly seems to be going well... And a little oil on the bolts before torquing would be a more accurate torque.
Uh, if you noticed, he was using lucas assembly lube when doing the bearings. But, honestly, alot of engine shops doing stock off the shelf rebuilds just use engine oil on all of it. Sure, moly assembly lube or other expensive stuff MIGHT give you a bit more insurance (if that stuff is real and not just castor oil with a price tag), its not that expensive. Doing it outside is fine, a clean environment is important, but he did this this in 47 minutes, Its not like a sandstorm blew over. I think its clear he has alot of knowledge. And, if you are someone that always goes to the machine shop, you don't know S**T. Of course they tell you to bore the cylinders, line bore and trim the caps, trim the deck. etc - they are a business, there aint no money in telling you that you can just hone the cylinders, emery cloth the bearing surfaces on the rods & block and deck, use lapping compound and a drill on on the valves (if they are hardnded for unleaded, which most nowadays will be, unlikely you are going to find a unworked on head from 1974) and get on down the road for another 75-100K. This is after measuring all of it, yourself, of course, which you can do with some SIMPLE tools. Obviously if the cylinders are out of round or main journals are egg shaped, you'll need to go to the friendly machine shop, but for a straighforward rebuild of an old worn out engine without any catastrophic breakdowns, like spun bearings, rings breaking and scoring cylinders, etc- you can do it JUST LIKE THIS.
Just my 2 cents, that block did not appear to be hot tanked. I'm not sure a reputable machine shop would bore a block without tanking it before and after. Secondly, that crankshaft was virtually dry when it was installed. I always use assembly lube (redline is my preference). I hope it broke in ok. They're tough motors.
Never plastigage that way! Only 1 piece per journal. For one the weight of the crank skews the reading of the lower piece and two The space taken up by the lower piece skews the reading of the upper piece, and because the lower piece is inaccurate you can't just add the two together for an actual number.
meovista a rebuild just honing the block and new rings is around 350, but if you were to get new crank, and pistons and what not itll all go up from there according to the quality. ive rebuilt a chevy 4.3 vortec for 800 in parts and all i replaced was the crank, rings and gaskets, but im building a 351c ford engine with all new forged and balance internals and its gonna run me around 2k in parts alone for the short block... my heads alone are gonna be another 2k and so on.. gonna push 450 rwhp
watch a few more and talk to an actual mechanic. You put lots of hard earned dollars into an engine, you want it to be the best it can be! This is not a really good video to go by! just sayin
Oh I don’t know about that. This video shows how most people need to work, without minimal tools, without performance parts, without unseen help from off camera. And if you rebuild an engine doing exactly what he’s doing here, it will start it will run and likely do so for another 500 000 miles if you change the oil on the regular. RUclips and a very big marketing machine have convinced a lot of people that a 10000ft shop and 50k$ in tools are needed for an oil change.... This video shows how small block Chevy engines were rebuilt for decades, and some of those engines are just getting ready to be rebuilt. I don’t know what the bill will be on this project, but I could do it today in my town for maybe 2 grand.... And that would be with upgrades. This video shows just how much is possible with the most basic tools without any shop at all, it teaches a valuable lesson without ever coming out and saying it as well: That even complex and difficult projects you think are way past our scope can be broken down and understood and performed by even a complete rookie. This guy reminds me of my grandfather, a heavy equipment mechanic, and auto mechanic, millwright, welder, a guy who in ww2 went from private with grade six education to 4 trade tickets, command of a maintenance and tank retrieving unit that went into battles in modified tanks to pull out disabled machines. Under heavy fire and unarmed. He talked slowly, all the time about what he was doing, I must have heard him tell me the way to install a spark plug at least a 100 times before I ever owned a car. He taught the way I now teach my apprentices, repetition, explanation, review a few days later.... I’ve never had one fail yet, because just like this guy is teaching us the entire time he’s working, information grinding in until you couldn’t forget it if you tried. Now, I will say this, he should be wearing gloves, both because none of the lubes and greases used here are good for you and many will absorb through the skin. Us old guys don’t, because we figure we already have 30 years of poison, you kids wear gloves. Besides, you have to touch your lover with those meat hooks... keep them soft and smooth not scarred like mine. Also, never touch a bearing surface with bare skin. No it doesn’t matter much when you build a daily driver stocker. But one day you might want nitrous and a finger print that day will blow your engine :) the other thing is assembly lube. Yes we used motor oil for years. But slathering on a ton of assembly lube almost guarantees a long life for the rotating assembly, and it makes every thing easier, and it’s cheap. Get a hard faced dead blow hammer for tapping in parts... it helps. And if you do a rebuild like this, spend more. Get that crank balanced. Get performance bearings, the best and lightest connecting rods you can afford, the best oil pump, the best timing chain and have really good camshaft bearings installed. This will cost you an extra 500-600$, but when you finish building this thing stock it will be 15 minutes before you want more. Building the bottom end to make 709hp one day will make sense on that day. One more thing... don’t try and build an engine without an engine stand. It’s the one specialized tool you cannot do without. I’m about to start rebuilding my first engine since I was a teen. It’s been a long time, and all the dazzle I’ve seen as I look into what has changed even had me intimidated. But this guy reminded me it’s still an Sbc 350, everything my grandad did on his truck will work fine on mine, the POWERNATION guys are a blast.... but dollar for dollar spent I’d bet I can get more from a motor grandad style. I doubt they could time an engine without a timing light, for example... but that’s a story if I start my own channel
Thanks for all the info!! Would you mind commenting a list of all the new parts you had in those boxes of you see this. I’m building my first small block and am about to this reassembley point
I always wanted to rebuild an engine. I think It would be so cool to drive and/or hotrod around on an engine that I build, from scratch. Guess I'm never going to get to do _that_.. damn it!
At minute 21:00, I torqued the mains to 75 ft lbs At minute 46:00 I torqued the rods to 45 ft lbs These specs are for 1969 to 1970 v8-350 that came from MOTOR'S Auto Repair Manual 1970 version
Yeah i got that i watch this a few times. Good video! now i am on the pistons now i was checking the clearance and mine .038mm so i need to order new ones.
I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop and have them bore out the cylinders by .030 and buy new pistons to match. That way you have a new bottom end. I bought my engine rebuild kit from the machine shop. He told me that the 350 engines are the most popular and the cheapest engines to rebuild.
Yeah see some one had bore this out to .060 already i took to the shop had them dip it just clean it up i bought everything new crank cam lifter heads where done at the shop so i have new parts and all i order .002 rod bearings see if that will work
Very Nice ! Great Video You just put it together ( That's what this video was about ) any one that has their own personal opinions ( and say something Negative ) can just go watch another video ( you know / because they know way more than you , but they watched this video ) I love it Great Job!!!!!
I am glad you liked the video. I made this so regular people would have the confidence to do it themselves. Here is the end result: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
if your running .0015 main clearances is that not on the tight side? rule of thumb as taught is .0010 for every inch of journal diameter so if your journal is 2.45 would you not want at least .0025 clearance on them mains?
Yes, and the fire trucks, airplanes, UPS guy, you name it. When I get may camera out, it seems everyone comes out, and it the winter, it is the crows. So I just give up and film it anyway.
I'm thinking about getting an old k5 blazer before I can legally drive so I can take apart the old 350 and clean it/add more parts. guess I can start to learn now if I actually do end up following through with my plan
When I was 15, my dad bought me a 1951 Chevy, 6 cylinder, 3 speed on the column for $5 for me and my brother to drive around the old wood logging roads in the summer. That is when I started working on cars. So go for it.
David Lis yeah, I hope I'll get the money and build one up. not sure how a carburetor would work in colorado, seeing how it's already a mile high and the altitude varies many thousands of feet quite often
David Lis yeah, it can be adjusted for the mile high, but it won't run efficient at all because the altitude varies heavily in colorado. go on a small drive and you gotta adjust it
hey i got a question for you i have a 1990 blazer stock 5.7 tbi in it and its starting to smoke burning oil its about 145,000 miles on it i pull the plugs and all them look okay except # 8 it was carbon up pretty bad so i did a compression test and all the cylinders were 151 /152 except #8 the file out plug was reading 180 i install value seals hoping that might be the problem when and drove it and it is still smoking i pull the # 8 plug out to look at it and it start to carbon back up on the plug and all so have oil around the threads annd its alot of drity mud in my exhaust pipe i guest from it leaking i did a compression test on that cylinder again and it reading the same as the other ones now 150 so what do you think i were trying and hoping i can fix the problem with out pulling the heads i would love to rebuild the engine and do some up grades but dont have the money right now..so what do you think the problem is ..my friend told me i migh need to drive it alittle bit or might be value guides..your opinion sure appreciate...i no it seems like i wrote a whole book to you lol.
If you installed new valve seals, that means the oil on the spark plug can not be coming from the valves themselves. Is it running rough? I do not understand why the cylinder giving you a problem has higher compression that all the rest? If you do the heads on a motor with 145K miles, you have to do the rings. How much oil does it use?
@@davidlis6709 i been using about a quart every 4 or 5 day i dont drive it mush but the conpression were all the same after i did thhe seals it has a funy smell to it so i change the oxygen sensor sence i havent change it in a while i only have one on ther e it is welded in to my header i have headers on there....but it ran alittle better but sence my truck been smoking it always ran good and it still run good..what do you think it could be..
Yeah some of these guys on youtube, showing how to be very careful... This guy just slams it in, those engines are under so much stress when running.. This isn't gonna hurt them
@@davidlis6709 very nice!!! Since I’ve retired from the military 3 years ago (did 20 years and 18 days) I’ve gotten more into collecting. I applaud you for wearing it and doing tasks most would be scared to do with it. All mine get wrist time and get put to the test. A Rolex is definitely a goal of mine.
@@bon2198 Got your pension. Save a little military retirement money each month. My suggestion, don't buy a new one. I went to have mine fixed and the Rolex dealer wanted to trade even with me for a new one. What is that telling you? The newer ones are larger. I bought mine in 1980 for $1,500. I wear it everyday except if I go outside USA. Look around on the internet there are always people selling them. Try to figure out when they went to the larger case. The big ones don't look as good. They remind me of all those watches the young people are wearing, larger.
@@davidlis6709 yeah I’m not a fan of the larger case or gigantic watches to begin with. Class and style and functional work best for me. I love the 16610 Submariners but I definitely want the glide lock clasp.
What makes you think that plastic gauge is going to read correctly since you set the weight of the crankshaft down on it you always put that stuff on the crank and set the cap on gingerly and and Vanessa into the registers that's how you use plastic gauge but not the way
I purchased a new crankshaft kit so it came with the correct size bearings. Did not micro polish or line bored because I am not going to race this car.
Hey guys, I have a chevy 350 that's been on a stand for a couple years.Its an older one (68-76 ??), Ready to re build it now. Not sure what it will end up going into.Could be anything. I want a little better(quicker) than stock.So,once I break it down and bring to machine shop.What should I ask them to do to it ?? (bore size?,etc..) Any help be great. Also,if it ends up being a 2 bolt main as opposed to a 4 bolt main,is it still good for a rebuild?? Not gonna race it at the track,just drive around,burn outs,etc...Thanks guys !!!
mic the cylinders and check for any taper or out of round. 30 over should do it. As for the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt, the four bolt can hold a higher load and deal with a lot more power. If you're just streeting it, a 2 bolt should do fine. When you go to the machine shop, have it hot tanked and checked for cracks. Maybe have them deck the block if you feel like it, or just use a machinist straight edge and some feeler gauges to check first. Hopefully your block is good, best wishes on the rebuild.
If you want and little more power. You may consider a little higher compression piston. When the machine shop checks the cylinders and if they need to be bored, it will most likely be .30 over. At that point you have to order new pistons anyway. You can also consider an after market cam shaft that has a little high lift and longer duration. But don't get to crazy. Maybe, get a set of heads with the big valves. Like John said - if you are just having fun on the street burning the tires, 2 bolt block is fine.
I purchase the entire kit from the machine shop where I had the block bored out because it was the cheapest. It came with all the bearing, rings, cam, lifters, and gaskets. He told me that a Chevy 350 is the cheapest to rebuild because there are so many of them. I don't think it makes much difference but buying it locally makes it is easier if something is not right.
A buddy of mine is giving me a old 89 Camaro RS. I'm pretty sure everything is stock. Would this video suffice cleaning the engine and putting it back together? It runs, but it run really rough. Has been sitting for 2 years roughly, but has been started every couple of months.
+Bradley C When I got this 70 Chevelle with a 350 v8, it was sitting in a storage container for 22 years and had two bad rod bearings. Once you rebuild the engine, it is new again.
+Bradley C Go for it. Between my video and all the others you will be able to do it. What a sense of accomplishment, it is a lot of work but the bragging rights are great. How many people can do this?
I did not see in the last video that you took out cam bearings and freeze plugs do you have to take those out before sending into machine shop,or do they take them out?Thanks! great videos Btw.
I dropped off the block and he took out the freeze out plugs and cam bearing before putting in a hot water cleaner. I have a video on him boring out the cylinders, putting the cam bearings, doing all those things. ruclips.net/video/MrNtJ9F9XMg/видео.html
how much do ucharge to rebulit a 1998 chevy votec 5.7 tahoe...how much does labor and pats along with machine cost..if soemoe dont have the money it it best to just get a used engine???
Just a suggestion to your very informative video. It is a good idea to wear rubber gloves when installing bearings and during the entire build process. The oils in your fingers will get on the bearing face and contaminate them. Plus it keeps your hands clean.
You are probably right but I am old school. My hands have been in old and gas for ever. Too old to change plus I don't like gloves, the feel is not there and they break.
I followed the directions that came with the ring set so that I would install it correctly. I took a picture of the instructions but forgot to include it with the video.
When checking the crank oil clearance and for final assembly you should put some oil on the bolt threads before torquing it down. Also check crank end play. .003 to .005. Also NEVER use a torque wrench in reverse to loosen bolts 😩. An only use ONE strip of plastiguage per journal remember each piece takes up clearance space. He actually had .004 not .002
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
My guess: It seams like it is leaking somewhere, maybe the pipe that connects the oil pump to the block or to the pump itself. I don't know how you check if the oil pump is working correctly or how to test it for volume and pressure. That means taking off the oil pan. Is there a way to contact the manufacturer of the oil pump and ask them if any of there other customers had this problem? Did you take off one of the valve covers and see how much oil is coming out of the rocker arms when running? That would tell you if you are getting good flow even with with low pressure. These hard problems need more than one brain thinking about it. Someone had this problem before but finding them???? Let me know, so we can share the information.
@@davidlis6709 ***UPDATE*** Do Not make my mistake. After chasing no oil pressure on a fresh 355. We pulled oil pump Melling HV55 to inspect. Nothing wrong. I told my son to check bottom of pan for maybe we forgot a rag or something. He comes up with Timing gear teeth. Pulled mains /looked good/ pulled t-cover only to find half the teeth missing on lower gear. Culprit was 2 cam galley plugs pushed out of the front of block got caught in middle of dbl roller and granaided sprocket. For the love of god please taps those cam 1/4 pipe plugs. Especially when using a HV pump. Lesson learned. Now i have to put the puzzle together and find all the teeth.
@@Supanova70 Thanks for update. Never heard of that problem. Good thing the chain didn't jump and have valves hit pistons. Lucky find. Good thing for you is that son is interested in learning and working on cars.
+GAR A Plastigage is useful to determine bearing clearances. There is a specific way in which it is used, however - and failure to use it properly and it's basically useless. If it smashes out too wide, this means the clearance is too small and you must select a bearing which will give you more clearance. The converse is true for Plastigage which isn't 'smashed enough'. A micrometer is much more accurate but Plastigage is 'good enough' for most stock applications.
If you have watched many of these videos on here, I'm sure you have come across PETE'S GARAGE video on how to do a 350... Two totally different videos, id rather learn from this guy than Pete... Like Robert Rowlands said... OLD SCHOOL get r done. Thats my kinda style
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
finally someone who talks slow, with good video and covers everything. i am a first time builder and could not have done it without david
I tried to cover everything and I am not selling parts like some other videos. I also did it along side my house and installed it in my driveway. This way it give others confidence to do it themselves.
David Lis thank you . Watching rebuild videos that use a million bucks worth of tools and garage don't give me the confidence to do this myself like your series does.
David Lis I continue to go back to your videos to refresh my memory on engine building and engine disassembley, us novice gearheads have to love your approach. Thank you , great job.
Same here(newbie), i dont understand why someone would watch your video if they already know how to assemble a motor(other comments)
yessssssss! I feel the same. First time builder and I have this exact motor in my 94 pickup. I plan to pull the motor and rebuild it just like he's doing! I'll be doing it in my driveway. I will be using this video step by step! Thank you for your time and effort sir! Shout out from Lansing Michigan!
Hi David! Your series helped me through the entire process on my very first small block 350 rebuild, which was a true mess. The engine sat in another truck for 16 years without the shelter of the intake manifold, valve covers or the hood. When I took it apart, it looked like something you pulled out of the Titanic shipwreck on the inside (I’m pretty sure there were barnacles growing too) as everything was badly rusted and fused together. People called me crazy, but I believed I could do it. I never considered myself mechanically inclined and the best I ever did was change my oil and a starter on my wife’s Tahoe. With quite a bit of elbow grease, I took the engine apart and got everything over to the machine shop where they restored the same heads and block to it’s original glory. I watched your rebuild series over and over again. The outcome was a beautiful engine done right by your instructions. I cannot tell you how much I enjoyed watching your series. Thank you for everything! Oh and for those who called me crazy, I’m driving with the same engine in my 74 K20 now. Look at me now! Cheers! :-)
awesome dude i’m getting the same idea in my head of trying to do it myself even though everyone thinks i’m crazy lol we will see
I want to learn how to close to a small block Chevrolethow do you assemble a small block
Thanks David, this video makes it feel like we are in the 50's or 60's putting a engine back together in someones backyard over a weekend to get it ready to go back in car and go out hot rodding
Sure does. The good old days.
Using Plastic gage and ( I love It Old Oil Can ) just out done most TV shows ! You Sir are A True Mechanic
Great video. No stupid music. Video gives plenty of into to rebuild your own motor. Mine is 1980 c10 5.7
Thank you. I find music distracting.
Now you can do it.
Good job on the video. Sure it is not perfect but sure helps out. Those who's only job is to complain about someone video can just go make their own video if they think they can do better. Thank you for taking the time and effort in the video. Nice Job.
I don't need to make my own video, I have been working on engines for over 50 years, and I really don't understand why he installed the crank before the cam shaft. Every time it clanked I winced. Also, just a little squirt of lube oil is not enough. I use a 50/50 mix oil and STP. Still every one to their own.
@@fredgrove4220 So why were you here? Just to be a critic? You're just a miserable old fart.
My son and I are just starting on a 350 SBC, I've watched your 3 dismantling and 3 assembling. Neither one of us have a clue what we are doing but I think now we have a chance. thanks so much.
Just go step by step. Watch the video then do a little work, watch and do. Take your time.
Thank God, someone out there that actually pre-oils bearings during installation. Too many people just put it together and then you have instant failure.
The Bob Ross of Engines. Informative, enjoyable and relaxing. Thanks for the great video Sir
I used to watch that guy paint
when I was a kid
I would love a DVD about you building the SBC! Maybe you aught to make one.
@@bigdaddy7600 Never thought about it. Didn't think anyone would be interested
I couldn't ask for a better instructor. Keep posting these videos. Amazing details.
Thanks
I never got to learn much about cars as a kid, but oh boy every day you’d bet I’d be out staring at my moms engine. Looking at it and trying to figure out what it all meant. You’re really helping a beginner understand what applies to what and the assembly process. Thanks man 🤘
That is why I do this. Who else is going to show you?
Very informative and I like the way you explain everything slowly. Thanks a million.
I try to make these videos so people who have never done this before will fully understand and have the ability to do it themselves.
I thank you David you are a very good teacher .you have learned me a great doll .this is December 18 2022 fixing to put new head gasket s again another 350 reset the heads put new oil pump in .thanks man hope you doing good now days
Thank you.
It is a lot easier after you see it done
David Good job putting the camshaft in first!! I have been an engine builder for over thirty years and the first thing you install after the cam bearings is the camshaft. If one of the cam bearings got nicked during installation and has to come back out. having a crankshaft and rods installed already is really going to mess up your day when you have to take it all back apart After you have lubricated and installed the cam and know that it spins freely you can take it back out and assemble the bottom end. You are the only one I have seen in any of the you tube engine builds that installed the cam first. Again good job!
Thank you. That is how my Dad taught me to do it when I was 17.
Thank you for such an easy to follow and understand video! Some of the others on YT zip past the details so fast, and / or don't explain (clearly) and are difficult to follow. I've never done an engine rebuild before, but I have a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne which I'm building confidence to restore, and with your very clear videos, it's kinda taking the mystery and fear out of doing it. You are an excellent video teacher. Again, thank you.
Thank you. Take your time and watch how you take it apart. Take pictures so you don't have to remember or doubt yourself. Do a little at a time and re watch the video for the areas you are not 100% comfortable with. You can do it. The first one is the hardest. Then you get bragging rights.
Tbank last ive fone this was 35 im 53 it just brought back some good Feelings TY Again
Made my day
its like a magical part of humanity...coming to life!!! I wish I could hire you old man!!!
You sir just made me rebuild an engine without knowledge of it, and it’s running great!
I love it.
Mine is running great also: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
Great video good speed just nice steady with no music or kids yelling in the back round great video
Thank you - Now you can do it.
Nice video I enjoyed it. I have seen people many times build an engine the same way this guy does using motor oil as they go for lubrication and the engines ran for many years without problems..Lots of old school mechanics used to use STP as an assembly lube...
Thanks brother. Having a blast rebuilding mine at home for the first time. Good to know I m on the right path
You can do this. Take your time.
Here is my results: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
I like the video hats off to ya. have to add when I check my rings I use my pistons to set the rings in the cylinder so I can have a consistent depth an level to measure ring gaps.
Man thanks a lot for this video series All the sudden a crate motor looks like a good idea. Awesome job
I wanted to keep the car as original as possible.
thank you for the video. I'm going to restore a SBC 350 from the mid 80's and this series has taken a lot of mystery out of the rebuild. I've tried to read through the comments as they should shed some light on opinions from other experienced wrench turners. it seems as though some type of lube on essentially everything is a good idea. Nitrile gloves would be a good idea, as well as being in a garage and not outside would be a good idea. I'll continue to watch these and other videos on rebuilds but I appreciate you taking the time to make this video.
Simple ....no fancy shit ....love it
Thanks for this informative video. It is helping me get mine done !
thanks again david because of you i am rebuilding my 350 with your videos!
I know you can do it, just take your time.
Can't wait to get started on my 350, Thank you David for making this video, this takes me back to my high school days with our auto shop teacher, Question: the pistons and other items to rebuild who would you recommend to get the parts from ?
I used your video as a reference to check clearances on my sbc 350. Glad you made this video.
I am a universe person, what comes around, goes around. If you help someone get what they want, someone, somewhere, somehow, will help you get what you want.
any engine i rebuilt i do, I always lubed during installation regardless, rings are dry you do not want to scratch those sensitive cylinder walls before the rings are broken into during initial startup, and yes you do not rev any rebuilt motor in any stage after startup as the oil needs to reach its velocity to flow and lubricate the Internal parts of the motor as per specifications , that's my 50 cents people do things differently I guess
We always break race motors in like they will be run wide open of course in use they will be on a rev limiter
Wow I really like how bright every thing is, I can see everything easily,
That is because I did it outside during the day along side my house. I wanted everyone to see every little detail.
This was very informative. Thank you!
I'm so very glad I watched this video. The best one I've watched, and I've watched a million 😃.
Thank you
I make these video to share my knowledge because who is going to teach you this?
I am not sell parts or services like some of the other videos.
Here is my results: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
Thanks for the video I learned a lot today watching this video crazy from some the things you learn over the Internet
Thank you sir! Very much, you have inspired me to learn this stuff. Wish I had the money for school or buy a dam used engine to take apart n learn, worse moment of my life and with a son... but I’ll try to learn this n move on with my life. Thank you!
I learned it from my dad. Then I went on to racing so I built motors for myself and my friends.
Ok first thanks for this video awesome as always. On to my question, so I am getting ready to drop in my crankshaft in my 1996 Lexus Ls400. I place all of the main bearing in set in the crank, nothing wrong. Place the thrust bearing in and now the crank won’t sit in. I measure it and its 2.44mm so it’s within spec. what do you think is wrong?
If the oil channel in the main bearings had to be narrowly zig-zagged (5.51) such that more area would be in direct contact with the oil, would the bearings last longer?
Very educational video, congratulations.
When I was an apprentice, I was always taught to install the cam shaft before the crank, that way you have good access to get your hands on it to guide it without clanking it and causing any damage, I have used this method for over 60 years, and I see no reason to change.
Everyone does it a little different. I see your point, with out the crank, it gives you a lot of access to help guide the cam in place.
No assembly lube? I've never built an engine without using some type of assembly lube to help with lubrication and friction on initial start. I wonder how long these bearing are going to last.
my thoughts exactly... put some oil on those bolts as well.
this guy docent have a clue
If your bitchin about assembly lube, you must not be very old... OR you haven't built very many engines, you use what you got in a pinch, this case, oil is fine... Why you think they give torque specs in lube AND oil, for just lube jobs?!? Get a clue... Guess that's just one difference between the book/video learning and the real world...
4malulz I've been building engines for over 30 years. I don't do it for a living, it's a hobby. I've built Fords, Chevys, big block and small block roller, solid and hydraulic, stock hp all the way up to 600hp and I've never assembled an engine without lube and I've never had one fail. Cheap insurance.
I agree it's cheap insurance, and nice to have and use on any build. I'm not saying assembly lube is a bad thing at all. I'm only stating that using oil in an assembly IS an accepted way of doing it. I for one, am glad to see this rebuild go like it did, maybe some people will see that this will workout for him. Like I stated previously, if he primes the oil pump very well before 1st start, I don't see much that would go wrong doing it this way... I'm not recommending this way either, BUT it is an accepted way of doing it, and others need to learn that and not disrespect this guy doing the best he can with an outside rebuild. Of course we can get all anal about the matter, but I've seen many ol' skoolers build with this method. The key to building this way and getting longer life out of the material is to prime the hell out of the oil pump, I"ve also seen builds like this where they swear no less than 30 minutes on a drill priming the engine before the last piece, dist, goes in and the initial start. I will also agree there will be less wear on break-in times using assm lube. I agree, but this is still an accepted method, that's all I"m saying. Hell, I didn't like seeing no assembly lube used either, but if he does everything right, oiling the heads, priming, etc. he should have no problems. That's all I'm saying... I see zero problems so far, only a little rough on the parts... I think he deserves SOME credit... as far as I can tell, he's done an excellent job. The only question I have is did he Plastigage everything, or just accept general tolerences, did he measure all the ring gaps, or just a couple? But the assembly seems to be going well... And a little oil on the bolts before torquing would be a more accurate torque.
Uh, if you noticed, he was using lucas assembly lube when doing the bearings. But, honestly, alot of engine shops doing stock off the shelf rebuilds just use engine oil on all of it. Sure, moly assembly lube or other expensive stuff MIGHT give you a bit more insurance (if that stuff is real and not just castor oil with a price tag), its not that expensive. Doing it outside is fine, a clean environment is important, but he did this this in 47 minutes, Its not like a sandstorm blew over. I think its clear he has alot of knowledge. And, if you are someone that always goes to the machine shop, you don't know S**T. Of course they tell you to bore the cylinders, line bore and trim the caps, trim the deck. etc - they are a business, there aint no money in telling you that you can just hone the cylinders, emery cloth the bearing surfaces on the rods & block and deck, use lapping compound and a drill on on the valves (if they are hardnded for unleaded, which most nowadays will be, unlikely you are going to find a unworked on head from 1974) and get on down the road for another 75-100K. This is after measuring all of it, yourself, of course, which you can do with some SIMPLE tools. Obviously if the cylinders are out of round or main journals are egg shaped, you'll need to go to the friendly machine shop, but for a straighforward rebuild of an old worn out engine without any catastrophic breakdowns, like spun bearings, rings breaking and scoring cylinders, etc- you can do it JUST LIKE THIS.
That's good to know because I'm going to attempt to rebuild a 350 starting in march. Wish me luck.
ddsr86 Good Luck
I really enjoyed you vidoes. They were very imformative. And i hope to see more of your build. Continued success.
Didn't say nothing about prepping the block for cleanliness before he started
That's what they make hamburgers for
Didn't tell you how much time it takes to get that stuff off of the burn before you finish RUclips is fucked up
I like the video I have a 350 I'm building up and this video really enlightened me on ALOT!!! thanks
You are welcome, glad it is helping.
Just my 2 cents, that block did not appear to be hot tanked. I'm not sure a reputable machine shop would bore a block without tanking it before and after. Secondly, that crankshaft was virtually dry when it was installed. I always use assembly lube (redline is my preference). I hope it broke in ok. They're tough motors.
he test fit the crank and checked clearance with plastigage,THEN he lubed it
Never plastigage that way! Only 1 piece per journal. For one the weight of the crank skews the reading of the lower piece and two The space taken up by the lower piece skews the reading of the upper piece, and because the lower piece is inaccurate you can't just add the two together for an actual number.
Great work! Can I ask what the rebuild cost?
meovista a rebuild just honing the block and new rings is around 350, but if you were to get new crank, and pistons and what not itll all go up from there according to the quality. ive rebuilt a chevy 4.3 vortec for 800 in parts and all i replaced was the crank, rings and gaskets, but im building a 351c ford engine with all new forged and balance internals and its gonna run me around 2k in parts alone for the short block... my heads alone are gonna be another 2k and so on.. gonna push 450 rwhp
I always liked the brass freeze plugs.
Cool...but I wouldn't use my torque wrench to loosen anything.
Bud Wertman yeah I totally cringed at that! Great video though!!
who told u nancys that?'
the ball n spring only work in the tightenin position
using the TW to loosen, dont jack up the calibration
im watching so I can build my first. very informative, so where the comments
watch a few more and talk to an actual mechanic. You put lots of hard earned dollars into an engine, you want it to be the best it can be! This is not a really good video to go by! just sayin
Oh I don’t know about that. This video shows how most people need to work, without minimal tools, without performance parts, without unseen help from off camera. And if you rebuild an engine doing exactly what he’s doing here, it will start it will run and likely do so for another 500 000 miles if you change the oil on the regular. RUclips and a very big marketing machine have convinced a lot of people that a 10000ft shop and 50k$ in tools are needed for an oil change.... This video shows how small block Chevy engines were rebuilt for decades, and some of those engines are just getting ready to be rebuilt. I don’t know what the bill will be on this project, but I could do it today in my town for maybe 2 grand.... And that would be with upgrades. This video shows just how much is possible with the most basic tools without any shop at all, it teaches a valuable lesson without ever coming out and saying it as well: That even complex and difficult projects you think are way past our scope can be broken down and understood and performed by even a complete rookie. This guy reminds me of my grandfather, a heavy equipment mechanic, and auto mechanic, millwright, welder, a guy who in ww2 went from private with grade six education to 4 trade tickets, command of a maintenance and tank retrieving unit that went into battles in modified tanks to pull out disabled machines. Under heavy fire and unarmed. He talked slowly, all the time about what he was doing, I must have heard him tell me the way to install a spark plug at least a 100 times before I ever owned a car. He taught the way I now teach my apprentices, repetition, explanation, review a few days later.... I’ve never had one fail yet, because just like this guy is teaching us the entire time he’s working, information grinding in until you couldn’t forget it if you tried. Now, I will say this, he should be wearing gloves, both because none of the lubes and greases used here are good for you and many will absorb through the skin. Us old guys don’t, because we figure we already have 30 years of poison, you kids wear gloves. Besides, you have to touch your lover with those meat hooks... keep them soft and smooth not scarred like mine. Also, never touch a bearing surface with bare skin. No it doesn’t matter much when you build a daily driver stocker. But one day you might want nitrous and a finger print that day will blow your engine :) the other thing is assembly lube. Yes we used motor oil for years. But slathering on a ton of assembly lube almost guarantees a long life for the rotating assembly, and it makes every thing easier, and it’s cheap. Get a hard faced dead blow hammer for tapping in parts... it helps. And if you do a rebuild like this, spend more. Get that crank balanced. Get performance bearings, the best and lightest connecting rods you can afford, the best oil pump, the best timing chain and have really good camshaft bearings installed. This will cost you an extra 500-600$, but when you finish building this thing stock it will be 15 minutes before you want more. Building the bottom end to make 709hp one day will make sense on that day. One more thing... don’t try and build an engine without an engine stand. It’s the one specialized tool you cannot do without. I’m about to start rebuilding my first engine since I was a teen. It’s been a long time, and all the dazzle I’ve seen as I look into what has changed even had me intimidated. But this guy reminded me it’s still an Sbc 350, everything my grandad did on his truck will work fine on mine, the POWERNATION guys are a blast.... but dollar for dollar spent I’d bet I can get more from a motor grandad style. I doubt they could time an engine without a timing light, for example... but that’s a story if I start my own channel
Thanks for all the info!! Would you mind commenting a list of all the new parts you had in those boxes of you see this. I’m building my first small block and am about to this reassembley point
Is there anything specific you want to talk about?
Beautiful video . Thanks
Thank you - I hope it helps you
I always wanted to rebuild an engine. I think It would be so cool to drive and/or hotrod around on an engine that I build, from scratch. Guess I'm never going to get to do _that_.. damn it!
+Blaze0357 Watch this video and learn how to sieze up a motor and blow it up. LMAO!!!
Hi your saying 70ft pounds but my book says 45ft i have 79 350 4 bolt main its in a boat. now i put my bolts to 70lb am i good?
At minute 21:00, I torqued the mains to 75 ft lbs
At minute 46:00 I torqued the rods to 45 ft lbs
These specs are for 1969 to 1970 v8-350 that came from MOTOR'S Auto Repair Manual 1970 version
Yeah i got that i watch this a few times. Good video! now i am on the pistons now i was checking the clearance and mine .038mm so i need to order new ones.
I would suggest taking the block to a machine shop and have them bore out the cylinders by .030 and buy new pistons to match. That way you have a new bottom end. I bought my engine rebuild kit from the machine shop. He told me that the 350 engines are the most popular and the cheapest engines to rebuild.
Yeah see some one had bore this out to .060 already i took to the shop had them dip it just clean it up i bought everything new crank cam lifter heads where done at the shop so i have new parts and all i order .002 rod bearings see if that will work
Very Nice ! Great Video You just put it together ( That's what this video was about ) any one that has their own personal opinions ( and say something Negative ) can just go watch another video ( you know / because they know way more than you , but they watched this video ) I love it Great Job!!!!!
I am glad you liked the video. I made this so regular people would have the confidence to do it themselves.
Here is the end result: ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
I'm planning a sbc 350 engine rebuild. This helped alot thanks🙏
You can do it. Just take your time.
So you put gauge under and on top both shows. 002 that gives you. 004 clearance
Great vid. Is that a small or a big block Chevy? I can't tell without the cylinder heads.
Nevermind. It's a SMALL block. I've seen your other vids.
Small block 350 cu in. The motor numbers match the car.
@@davidlis6709 Thanks.
Well done, thanks for taking the time.
if your running .0015 main clearances is that not on the tight side? rule of thumb as taught is .0010 for every inch of journal diameter so if your journal is 2.45 would you not want at least .0025 clearance on them mains?
i use your video to rebuild my motor have done work on not a lot but it what i am going to do so thanks a lot for the help i be watch on a EVERY DAY
Brass freeze plugs last longer.
is that a baby I hear crying?
Yes, and the fire trucks, airplanes, UPS guy, you name it. When I get may camera out, it seems everyone comes out, and it the winter, it is the crows. So I just give up and film it anyway.
Did u do a final wash on it? Or just get it back from machine shop and then assemble
The machine shop washed because the bored out the cylinders by .030, put in new cam bearings and oil plugs.
Good video David Iv'e built over 50 small block chevys and I must say you are doing it right on a budget :)
Thank you - some other people didn't like the video. It engine runs great. I used the car at least once a week. 1970 Chevelle Malibu.
What did they cut the crankshaft? Don
I purchased a new crankshaft because the old one was to far gone.
I'm thinking about getting an old k5 blazer before I can legally drive so I can take apart the old 350 and clean it/add more parts. guess I can start to learn now if I actually do end up following through with my plan
Go for it.
When I was 15, my dad bought me a 1951 Chevy, 6 cylinder, 3 speed on the column for $5 for me and my brother to drive around the old wood logging roads in the summer. That is when I started working on cars. So go for it.
David Lis yeah, I hope I'll get the money and build one up. not sure how a carburetor would work in colorado, seeing how it's already a mile high and the altitude varies many thousands of feet quite often
Didn't they use carburetors in all the cars before fuel injection was introduced? It just has to be adjusted for the altitude.
David Lis yeah, it can be adjusted for the mile high, but it won't run efficient at all because the altitude varies heavily in colorado. go on a small drive and you gotta adjust it
what size was your top and bottom ring gap?
Fantaaaaaaaastic!! I have learned some good points in your video!! Thank you!!
You are welcome
great teacher I'm going to try put a sbc 350 together I'm letting the machine shop do my 406 sbc I want it right but thanks again for this video
hey i got a question for you i have a 1990 blazer stock 5.7 tbi in it and its starting to smoke burning oil its about 145,000 miles on it i pull the plugs and all them look okay except # 8 it was carbon up pretty bad so i did a compression test and all the cylinders were 151 /152 except #8 the file out plug was reading 180 i install value seals hoping that might be the problem when and drove it and it is still smoking i pull the # 8 plug out to look at it and it start to carbon back up on the plug and all so have oil around the threads annd its alot of drity mud in my exhaust pipe i guest from it leaking i did a compression test on that cylinder again and it reading the same as the other ones now 150 so what do you think i were trying and hoping i can fix the problem with out pulling the heads i would love to rebuild the engine and do some up grades but dont have the money right now..so what do you think the problem is ..my friend told me i migh need to drive it alittle bit or might be value guides..your opinion sure appreciate...i no it seems like i wrote a whole book to you lol.
If you installed new valve seals, that means the oil on the spark plug can not be coming from the valves themselves.
Is it running rough?
I do not understand why the cylinder giving you a problem has higher compression that all the rest?
If you do the heads on a motor with 145K miles, you have to do the rings.
How much oil does it use?
@@davidlis6709 i been using about a quart every 4 or 5 day i dont drive it mush but the conpression were all the same after i did thhe seals it has a funy smell to it so i change the oxygen sensor sence i havent change it in a while i only have one on ther e it is welded in to my header i have headers on there....but it ran alittle better but sence my truck been smoking it always ran good and it still run good..what do you think it could be..
@@thedobermangang3503 Do you think the smell is from burning oil?
Sorry - I can not answer the question
Old school git r done shade tree style. Enjoyed the video series.
Yeah some of these guys on youtube, showing how to be very careful... This guy just slams it in, those engines are under so much stress when running.. This isn't gonna hurt them
Great video! What is your watch? Looks like a glycine combat sub.
Rolex Sea Dweller, bought in in 1980 for $1,500.
@@davidlis6709 very nice!!! Since I’ve retired from the military 3 years ago (did 20 years and 18 days) I’ve gotten more into collecting. I applaud you for wearing it and doing tasks most would be scared to do with it. All mine get wrist time and get put to the test. A Rolex is definitely a goal of mine.
@@bon2198 Got your pension. Save a little military retirement money each month.
My suggestion, don't buy a new one. I went to have mine fixed and the Rolex dealer wanted to trade even with me for a new one. What is that telling you? The newer ones are larger.
I bought mine in 1980 for $1,500. I wear it everyday except if I go outside USA. Look around on the internet there are always people selling them. Try to figure out when they went to the larger case. The big ones don't look as good. They remind me of all those watches the young people are wearing, larger.
@@davidlis6709 yeah I’m not a fan of the larger case or gigantic watches to begin with. Class and style and functional work best for me. I love the 16610 Submariners but I definitely want the glide lock clasp.
@@bon2198 But don't do like a lot of guys, only wear it on special occasions, every day is a special occasion.
Very helpful video. Informative. Thanks
What makes you think that plastic gauge is going to read correctly since you set the weight of the crankshaft down on it you always put that stuff on the crank and set the cap on gingerly and and Vanessa into the registers that's how you use plastic gauge but not the way
Nice videa very informative , did you micro polish crank ? Line bore ?? And what size crank bearings
I purchased a new crankshaft kit so it came with the correct size bearings. Did not micro polish or line bored because I am not going to race this car.
2 bolt 2 barrel motor they work very well
Works for me
ruclips.net/video/vm-YY-xsMyM/видео.html
What do you do if the results say they are now within .002 of an inch. Go have it re machined?
Do you have a local machine shop to ask. It might be ok
Good job bro that is amazing job
Now you can do it.
Crankshaft end float???
Hey guys, I have a chevy 350 that's been on a stand for a couple years.Its an older one (68-76 ??), Ready to re build it now. Not sure what it will end up going into.Could be anything. I want a little better(quicker) than stock.So,once I break it down and bring to machine shop.What should I ask them to do to it ?? (bore size?,etc..) Any help be great. Also,if it ends up being a 2 bolt main as opposed to a 4 bolt main,is it still good for a rebuild?? Not gonna race it at the track,just drive around,burn outs,etc...Thanks guys !!!
mic the cylinders and check for any taper or out of round. 30 over should do it. As for the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt, the four bolt can hold a higher load and deal with a lot more power. If you're just streeting it, a 2 bolt should do fine. When you go to the machine shop, have it hot tanked and checked for cracks. Maybe have them deck the block if you feel like it, or just use a machinist straight edge and some feeler gauges to check first. Hopefully your block is good, best wishes on the rebuild.
Big Thanks man,just got the message.
If you want and little more power. You may consider a little higher compression piston. When the machine shop checks the cylinders and if they need to be bored, it will most likely be .30 over. At that point you have to order new pistons anyway. You can also consider an after market cam shaft that has a little high lift and longer duration. But don't get to crazy. Maybe, get a set of heads with the big valves.
Like John said - if you are just having fun on the street burning the tires, 2 bolt block is fine.
thank you , but why you didnt put some oil around the piston before you put it in the block engine......
I was wondering about the lack of assembly lube
Do you purchase all these parts online or a specific place?
I purchase the entire kit from the machine shop where I had the block bored out because it was the cheapest. It came with all the bearing, rings, cam, lifters, and gaskets. He told me that a Chevy 350 is the cheapest to rebuild because there are so many of them. I don't think it makes much difference but buying it locally makes it is easier if something is not right.
Thanks for the video was a lot of help
I am happy that it helped
A buddy of mine is giving me a old 89 Camaro RS. I'm pretty sure everything is stock. Would this video suffice cleaning the engine and putting it back together? It runs, but it run really rough. Has been sitting for 2 years roughly, but has been started every couple of months.
+Bradley C Yes, but go to the used book store and get a old Hot Rod tech book to help support the data presented here
k cool thanks and thanks for the vid
+Bradley C When I got this 70 Chevelle with a 350 v8, it was sitting in a storage container for 22 years and had two bad rod bearings. Once you rebuild the engine, it is new again.
Ya breaking mine down now. doesn't look too bad. Most of the bolts were loose. So low on coolant and oil.
+Bradley C Go for it. Between my video and all the others you will be able to do it. What a sense of accomplishment, it is a lot of work but the bragging rights are great. How many people can do this?
I did not see in the last video that you took out cam bearings and freeze plugs do you have to take those out before sending into machine shop,or do they take them out?Thanks! great videos Btw.
I dropped off the block and he took out the freeze out plugs and cam bearing before putting in a hot water cleaner. I have a video on him boring out the cylinders, putting the cam bearings, doing all those things.
ruclips.net/video/MrNtJ9F9XMg/видео.html
David Lis. Thanks Dave!
Is .003 across the board ok for the rods and mains?
In the Chilton's manual is said: .0007 to .0025, .0029 depending on the engine. I don't think you are going to have a problem
how much do ucharge to rebulit a 1998 chevy votec 5.7 tahoe...how much does labor and pats along with machine cost..if soemoe dont have the money it it best to just get a used engine???
Just a suggestion to your very informative video. It is a good idea to wear rubber gloves when installing bearings and during the entire build process. The oils in your fingers will get on the bearing face and contaminate them. Plus it keeps your hands clean.
You are probably right but I am old school. My hands have been in old and gas for ever. Too old to change plus I don't like gloves, the feel is not there and they break.
What size is the socket used to turn the engine over?
Would this assembly be the same for say a big block chevy engine
It is the same process for all engines. Different makes and engine sizes very (like bearing and piston sizes, torque values for different bolts, etc)
Bien armado . Pero xq usar pinzas en los anillos ? Adelantas más su tiempo de desgaste
Sorry, in USA we only speak English
what brand ratchet and sockets do are you using in this video??
Can you install the pistons in not all the way and after that put in the crankshaft?
If you put the pistons in, the connecting rods would be in the way of
installing the crankshaft. That is not the right sequence of events.
Alright thank you.
No - you have to put the crankshaft in first.
Didnt notice if you checked for the dimple on the rings making sure top side is up.
I followed the directions that came with the ring set so that I would install it correctly. I took a picture of the instructions but forgot to include it with the video.
Did you use any of the old parts?or get everything new?Thanks
When checking the crank oil clearance and for final assembly you should put some oil on the bolt threads before torquing it down. Also check crank end play. .003 to .005. Also NEVER use a torque wrench in reverse to loosen bolts 😩. An only use ONE strip of plastiguage per journal remember each piece takes up clearance space. He actually had .004 not .002
just be worried about torque with that extention. things be a little loose
+Jake Wilkin: He went straight to 70 lbs ft. Never go directly to max. you sneak up on it, slowly should have went 30 then 30 then 10
Having oil pressure issue. All plugs in block even hidden plug. bearing 2.5 to 3 thou. clock cam bearings/ Hei msd /stock pan with Melling hv pump.1/2`` off pan/20/50 oil wix filter only 30 psi when cold and 10 when hot. Does not increase much when at 2500prm. verified test gauges as well. Bad pump? Fresh rebuild 355. also new bypass for oil filter.
My guess:
It seams like it is leaking somewhere, maybe the pipe that connects the oil pump to the block or to the pump itself. I don't know how you check if the oil pump is working correctly or how to test it for volume and pressure. That means taking off the oil pan.
Is there a way to contact the manufacturer of the oil pump and ask them if any of there other customers had this problem?
Did you take off one of the valve covers and see how much oil is coming out of the rocker arms when running? That would tell you if you are getting good flow even with with low pressure.
These hard problems need more than one brain thinking about it. Someone had this problem before but finding them????
Let me know, so we can share the information.
@@davidlis6709 ***UPDATE*** Do Not make my mistake. After chasing no oil pressure on a fresh 355. We pulled oil pump Melling HV55 to inspect. Nothing wrong. I told my son to check bottom of pan for maybe we forgot a rag or something. He comes up with Timing gear teeth. Pulled mains /looked good/ pulled t-cover only to find half the teeth missing on lower gear. Culprit was 2 cam galley plugs pushed out of the front of block got caught in middle of dbl roller and granaided sprocket. For the love of god please taps those cam 1/4 pipe plugs. Especially when using a HV pump. Lesson learned. Now i have to put the puzzle together and find all the teeth.
@@Supanova70 Thanks for update.
Never heard of that problem. Good thing the chain didn't jump and have valves hit pistons.
Lucky find.
Good thing for you is that son is interested in learning and working on cars.
Did you order a stock master rebuild kit?with it being bored 30 over
Yes. It came with everything, bearings, rings, cam, etc
what exactly is plastica gauge do? what if its narrow or wide what to then?
+GAR A Plastigage is useful to determine bearing clearances. There is a specific way in which it is used, however - and failure to use it properly and it's basically useless. If it smashes out too wide, this means the clearance is too small and you must select a bearing which will give you more clearance. The converse is true for Plastigage which isn't 'smashed enough'.
A micrometer is much more accurate but Plastigage is 'good enough' for most stock applications.
If you have watched many of these videos on here, I'm sure you have come across PETE'S GARAGE video on how to do a 350... Two totally different videos, id rather learn from this guy than Pete... Like Robert Rowlands said... OLD SCHOOL get r done. Thats my kinda style
I like the birds singing in the background.
As soon as I get my camera out, everyone comes out, if it not my neighbors kid, it is an airplane, or the police or firetrucks.
Thank you, good video.
As soon as I get out there and start my camera, everyone comes out. I get the neighbor kids, fire trucks and sometimes airplanes. Forgot the UPS guy.