G'day 'Mega', You do some of the best modelling videos I've seen in a long time. Great work on your instructional videos too. My ears pricked up when you said your HKM B-17 kit, "...came with no decals...". That's really strange. I've done the Hong Kong Models B-17, in 1/48 and 1/32 (great kits by the way) and, of course, they both came with USAAF, WW2 decal sheets. In this kit the decals were made by Cartograf, an excellent brand of decals, made in Italy. I've been doing HKM kits for years and never have I had a kit without a decal sheet. If you didn't have one then someone at the factory just forgot your box, or, they are going missing at your retailer's store; yet, I've never heard of a 'decal thief'; but then again, Cartograf decal sheets would be the ones to steal; I reckon they are the thinnest and best as they work fantastically with just about any decal softener. I’ve never heard of a kit, from any maker, that doesn’t come with decal sheets. I believe that in the early days of modelling, not all kits came with decals; one had to paint on roundels; no stencil markings back then. But that was many decades ago. I often like to do builds that link with specific pilots from my Air Force's (RAAF) history so I purchase aftermarket decals that don't depict US or RAF aircraft. I've now got a good supply of decal sheets from kit boxes which have 'saved my bacon' on many occasions when, lesser, decals decide to tear on me. Mind you, that is happening less these days as companies make better decal sheets; still, there are quite a few 'cheapo' decals out there. Never had a problem with Cartograf. My suggestion to you is that if your new kits aren't sealed from the shop or turn up in the mail, unsealed, then it's 'London to a brick' someone is 'collecting' Cartograf decal sheets. Cheers, and thanks again. Bill H.
great great work but the preshading on the olive drab is invisible. Probably u alredy know but the only way is painting the light for every single panel and fixing errors with the base color.
Quick one on the gloss coating...you apply only where the decals are applied...or the whole model?? And if only where decals are applied, does it leave any distinctive marks once applying a dull coat?? Cheers from Sydney Aus!!!!
An informative video, thanks, but may I ask what makes Tamiya's decal scissors and tweezers better than the average examples one can finding a pharmacy or a super market cosmetics rack? Is the difference worth any extra expense?
Very very new to modeling, I sorry if I've missed this detail somewhere. Can someone tell me how to apply decals to mission model paints being the paint is water based? Applying decals in the cockpit of my F14A over mission models paint seemed to soften the paint underneath. What am I doing wrong? Do I just need to apply a clear coat first?
Yeah you can just use water still. The decal solution or setting solution is just an extra that softens the decals more than they already are and they will conform to the details on the surface better. I can remember, as a teenager, putting decals on over panel lines and running my hobby knife down it to get the decal to "sink into" the panel line. With these solutions you don't have to do that anymore, the solution softens it up and it settles into it.
That’s what I used to do back then. And silvering used to appear in some cases. Then I started cutting closer to the decal. And the models back then had less details. Most of the time smooth. I used to directly apply it after painting no gloss coat before nor after for weathering or to protect the decal. But with this actual method now that I am back to modelling I feel it is better than just water.
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G'day 'Mega', You do some of the best modelling videos I've seen in a long time. Great work on your instructional videos too.
My ears pricked up when you said your HKM B-17 kit, "...came with no decals...".
That's really strange. I've done the Hong Kong Models B-17, in 1/48 and 1/32 (great kits by the way) and, of course, they both came with USAAF, WW2 decal sheets. In this kit the decals were made by Cartograf, an excellent brand of decals, made in Italy.
I've been doing HKM kits for years and never have I had a kit without a decal sheet. If you didn't have one then someone at the factory just forgot your box, or, they are going missing at your retailer's store; yet, I've never heard of a 'decal thief'; but then again, Cartograf decal sheets would be the ones to steal; I reckon they are the thinnest and best as they work fantastically with just about any decal softener.
I’ve never heard of a kit, from any maker, that doesn’t come with decal sheets. I believe that in the early days of modelling, not all kits came with decals; one had to paint on roundels; no stencil markings back then. But that was many decades ago.
I often like to do builds that link with specific pilots from my Air Force's (RAAF) history so I purchase aftermarket decals that don't depict US or RAF aircraft. I've now got a good supply of decal sheets from kit boxes which have 'saved my bacon' on many occasions when, lesser, decals decide to tear on me.
Mind you, that is happening less these days as companies make better decal sheets; still, there are quite a few 'cheapo' decals out there.
Never had a problem with Cartograf. My suggestion to you is that if your new kits aren't sealed from the shop or turn up in the mail, unsealed, then it's 'London to a brick' someone is 'collecting' Cartograf decal sheets.
Cheers, and thanks again. Bill H.
I really appreciate these videos. Straight forward, clear and concise. Thank you.
Nice tips - thanks! Also cheers from Sydney Australia!
Great tutorial Sir, this will help out a lot of folks. Thanks for taking the time and sharing this, have a great weekend.
-David
Excellent video, thank you! from Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Great how-to video. Thanks for teaching me.
Very helpful thanks!
Very good info and a nicely done video on the subject much appreciated. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist
EXCELLENT Vid - THANKS !!
awesome demo!!🙂 ty
great tutorial!
Thx for your tips Sir...
great great work but the preshading on the olive drab is invisible. Probably u alredy know but the only way is painting the light for every single panel and fixing errors with the base color.
Quick one on the gloss coating...you apply only where the decals are applied...or the whole model?? And if only where decals are applied, does it leave any distinctive marks once applying a dull coat??
Cheers from Sydney Aus!!!!
An informative video, thanks, but may I ask what makes Tamiya's decal scissors and tweezers better than the average examples one can finding a pharmacy or a super market cosmetics rack? Is the difference worth any extra expense?
Thanks for the video quite informative! My question is, which process would you do first, apply panel line painting /wash or water decals?
New here, and teaching my son. How did you apply the flat finish over the decal without covering the decal?
Does cover the whole model with a sealing coat. Flat, Satin or Gloss, whichever you prefer.
I only cover canopies with masking tape before sealing coat.
What does contact clear do as in the revell brand
Great video! Introducing my son to the hobby. Do you have affiliate links for the products in your video?
We sell all of the products from the video on our website, MegaHobby.com -- come take a look!
Very very new to modeling, I sorry if I've missed this detail somewhere. Can someone tell me how to apply decals to mission model paints being the paint is water based? Applying decals in the cockpit of my F14A over mission models paint seemed to soften the paint underneath. What am I doing wrong? Do I just need to apply a clear coat first?
Is there any difference from the 1st release when it was the B-17E/F ?
Can't you just use water? We used to just wet them and then apply them when I was a kid and I don't remember any problems. Am I forgetting something?
Yeah you can just use water still. The decal solution or setting solution is just an extra that softens the decals more than they already are and they will conform to the details on the surface better. I can remember, as a teenager, putting decals on over panel lines and running my hobby knife down it to get the decal to "sink into" the panel line. With these solutions you don't have to do that anymore, the solution softens it up and it settles into it.
@@Fitch93 Absolutely. You can use either, but the decal solution makes it much easier to get that perfect finish
That’s what I used to do back then. And silvering used to appear in some cases. Then I started cutting closer to the decal. And the models back then had less details. Most of the time smooth. I used to directly apply it after painting no gloss coat before nor after for weathering or to protect the decal. But with this actual method now that I am back to modelling I feel it is better than just water.
Does the water need to be boiled for applying decals.
I'll use filtered or bottled water , cleaner than tap . CARWFULLY microwave to heat up, and you're ready .