Hi! I'm actually really interested in using this for an eagle project, but I don't know if the people would accept two holes dug in their lawn (they don't own the property), so I was wondering if there is any way of making it freestanding. Thank you for the design, and this is an overall great video. :)
Did you give any thought about covering your rack to help reduce UV damage and oxidation to the canoes? Thought you knocked it out of the park on your video! Great job!
Hey Mark, thanks for the compliment. Yes, I ended up attaching a very long board (with rounded ends) between the posts at the top of the rack. This board extended out beyond the posts allowing me to drape a large tarp over everything. I cover everything up over the winter months.
2 comments. 1, are you concerned enough about wind that you felt that burying the posts was your best bet? I would just use the concrete elephant's feet that fit a 4x4 perfectly. 2) why is rack level 1 so close to the ground? Seems like a bit of a backbreaker to get the canoe out? 3) I prefer Timberlok to standard deck screws, but I suppose this is a builder's choice... The trick of using a 2x4 for vertical rack spacing was brilliant. Thank you for this clear demo.
You could probably use those concrete post blocks, but I like the idea of making sure everything is secure and stable in all kinds of weather as we can get some bad winter storms where I live, hence the posts into the ground, and yes the lowest rack is close to the ground, but this just means that my highest rack is not 'too' high.
Like the build. I have canoes that weigh around 70 lbs. Do you think you need any reinforcement on the arms, or is yours still holding up and doing fine? Also, do you think its necessary to put the posts in the ground? Thanks again! Dan
I place the heavier canoes on the bottom, and the lighter boats (kayaks) up top. It has stayed strong for many, many years, of course using thicker lumber will help if you have doubts. You probably could build a stand that just ‘rests’ on the ground, but I’m not sure if it would be as stable or secure when loading and unloading or in high winds.
@TheOneCanoe does this only work if you have one canoe on each side to even out the weight on each rack? Looks like if you have just one, the weight will cause the arms to tip, the deck screws won't hold the weight?
I’ve never had an issue with only one canoe on the side. The deck screws are very strong. Of course I have lots of boats, and the rack is usually full except for the times I’m out paddling. The weight of the canoe could make a difference. I always place the heavier boats on the bottom rack (which can be braced to the ground below)
Very nice job and video. For our three kayaks we required a solution that would protect the kayaks from weather and chewing animals. See our completely enclosed solution at Karin and Larry at Home. Take care, Larry
When you are backfilling use water in the hole to help compact the soil, 1/2 fill the hole, add water add another foot of soil, add more water and your posts will be a lot sturdier.
Hi! Do you live in a heavy snow state? Just wondering about how well the kayaks/canoes would not rot from winter snow? Do you cover them with a tarp or anything?
Hey Richard, thanks for watching. It's been 2 years since I built it and it's still working well for me. I added a long plank, and attached it to the two top posts and it extends out 3 ft on both ends. This adds to the stability, but the main reason I did it, was so I could drape a large tarp over it during the winter months.
LA5150 The deck screws I used have stood up well, but you could certainly use lag bolts. They would be a more costly option, but they are very strong. I’d make sure to use galvanized ones.
@@la5150hi-lophoto I prefer TimberLok . However, they are more costly. They are self-driving and the head does get buried. You also have to be careful with any screw that the tip does not stick out when fully driven. So for example for 2 2x4s lapped over each other, your screw needs to be 2x1.75 - .25 or in effect no longer than 3". For 2x4 attached to 4x4 the screws can of course be longer.
Appreciate the practicality of this build with no concrete and reclaimed lumber.
Thanks.
Good video, no fluff or anything annoying. And I really liked the build list even though you used scrap. Very thought out and helpful.
Thank You.
Well done. Clear, practical advice and easy to listen to.
Thank you very much.
What an excellent tutorial! Clear explanations, reasons, and method. Thank you
Thanks.
Great tutorial! All of your instructions were super clear. I can’t wait to tackle this project!
Thank You. It's a pretty easy weekend project once you have all the materials at hand.
Using these plans for my Eagle Project! Thank you!
Nice to hear. Hope it works out for you.
Looks like a great plan - thanks!
great work. I like how you just used old boards.
I like to recycle when I can!
Great job, u give me an idea how to make my kayak storage rack thank you
Thanks for watching.
Very well done. Thank you.
Thanks for checking out the video.
Hi! I'm actually really interested in using this for an eagle project, but I don't know if the people would accept two holes dug in their lawn (they don't own the property), so I was wondering if there is any way of making it freestanding. Thank you for the design, and this is an overall great video. :)
great video!!
Thanks!
Did you give any thought about covering your rack to help reduce UV damage and oxidation to the canoes? Thought you knocked it out of the park on your video! Great job!
Hey Mark, thanks for the compliment. Yes, I ended up attaching a very long board (with rounded ends) between the posts at the top of the rack. This board extended out beyond the posts allowing me to drape a large tarp over everything. I cover everything up over the winter months.
2 comments. 1, are you concerned enough about wind that you felt that burying the posts was your best bet? I would just use the concrete elephant's feet that fit a 4x4 perfectly. 2) why is rack level 1 so close to the ground? Seems like a bit of a backbreaker to get the canoe out? 3) I prefer Timberlok to standard deck screws, but I suppose this is a builder's choice...
The trick of using a 2x4 for vertical rack spacing was brilliant.
Thank you for this clear demo.
You could probably use those concrete post blocks, but I like the idea of making sure everything is secure and stable in all kinds of weather as we can get some bad winter storms where I live, hence the posts into the ground, and yes the lowest rack is close to the ground, but this just means that my highest rack is not 'too' high.
@@TheOneCanoe Got it. Just hate digging!
Great DIY video! Thanks🙏
Thank You very much!
Thank you.
You’re welcome.
Like the build. I have canoes that weigh around 70 lbs. Do you think you need any reinforcement on the arms, or is yours still holding up and doing fine? Also, do you think its necessary to put the posts in the ground? Thanks again!
Dan
I place the heavier canoes on the bottom, and the lighter boats (kayaks) up top. It has stayed strong for many, many years, of course using thicker lumber will help if you have doubts. You probably could build a stand that just ‘rests’ on the ground, but I’m not sure if it would be as stable or secure when loading and unloading or in high winds.
@@TheOneCanoe thank you again!
great, great, great!!!!!
Trying this today. At what point did you add the second cross brace? Great video!
I added the second cross brace just to give it a bit more stiffness.
@TheOneCanoe does this only work if you have one canoe on each side to even out the weight on each rack? Looks like if you have just one, the weight will cause the arms to tip, the deck screws won't hold the weight?
I’ve never had an issue with only one canoe on the side. The deck screws are very strong. Of course I have lots of boats, and the rack is usually full except for the times I’m out paddling. The weight of the canoe could make a difference. I always place the heavier boats on the bottom rack (which can be braced to the ground below)
Cool
Very nice job and video. For our three kayaks we required a solution that would protect the kayaks from weather and chewing animals. See our completely enclosed solution at Karin and Larry at Home. Take care, Larry
nice canoe project. happy thanksgiving.
When you are backfilling use water in the hole to help compact the soil, 1/2 fill the hole, add water add another foot of soil, add more water and your posts will be a lot sturdier.
Hi! Do you live in a heavy snow state? Just wondering about how well the kayaks/canoes would not rot from winter snow? Do you cover them with a tarp or anything?
Yes, where I live, we do get a fair amount of snow, and yes, I do have a big tarp that I drape over the canoe/kayak stand.
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
That was great thank you! Have you had any issues with it since the build? Make any changes?
Hey Richard, thanks for watching. It's been 2 years since I built it and it's still working well for me. I added a long plank, and attached it to the two top posts and it extends out 3 ft on both ends. This adds to the stability, but the main reason I did it, was so I could drape a large tarp over it during the winter months.
Nice less than half the price of buying racks for same purpose. And you recycled materials. Awesome
Ya, it worked our really well for me using up all that old lumber i had laying around.
I used your video to help construct my rack. Quick question - do you think it's better to put in lag bolts/screws or has the deck screws held up?
LA5150 The deck screws I used have stood up well, but you could certainly use lag bolts. They would be a more costly option, but they are very strong. I’d make sure to use galvanized ones.
TheOneCanoe thanks
@@la5150hi-lophoto I prefer TimberLok . However, they are more costly. They are self-driving and the head does get buried.
You also have to be careful with any screw that the tip does not stick out when fully driven. So for example for 2 2x4s lapped over each other, your screw needs to be 2x1.75 - .25 or in effect no longer than 3". For 2x4 attached to 4x4 the screws can of course be longer.
Dude didn’t even have to dig.
Huh?
@@TheOneCanoe It was a joke, you edited out the digging for the posts. ;)