Hey I just wanted to say thank you for your simplified video. I was on a service call wiring a buck booster for the first time ever and your video let me finish the job correctly so thanks. Sincerely, Aaron.
You are my hero Greg!! Great break down for easier understanding. I just finished a job using this video. You helped put money in my pockets. Thank You Sir!!!
Awesome video. I have a job coming up where I need to use a buck boost transformer and all the diagrams provided are confusing. This made it super simple and easy to understand thank you. I have 120/208 3 phase and have to power a 1phase 230v 31A compressor.
That’s exactly what I need to do as well, to the T. What did you get to complete the job? We also have a 120/208 3 phase system and need to power an espresso machine
Glad I could help I try to reply to my comment when I see them my brother had a laser set up and it wouldn’t work if it drops below 208 so I did his that way it has been working fantastically it should work perfect for you don’t be scared of it it’s easy
Thanks for replying, I got the wiring, my question is with the neutral, can I use the neutral from the primary to feed the neutral on the secondary since I have 208/120v on the primary and I need 240/120v on the secondary
It depends on whether you need 120 VAC from both of the load-side phases. If so, you'll need an isolation transformer with a center tap, which is bigger and more expensive than a buck-boost transformer. However, if you're running an appliance like an electric stove, which requires 240 VAC for the heating elements but only one 120 VAC phase for the control board, fan, lighting, etc., you may be able to get away with wiring the 120 VAC load-side phase (i.e. the one that is tied directly to an incoming 120 VAC phase) to the terminal on the stove that requires 120 VAC and wiring the "wild" (~150 VAC) phase to the terminal on the stove that _doesn't_ require 120 VAC. You may need to contact the manufacturer to get a wiring diagram in order to figure out which terminal requires 120 VAC and which one can tolerate 150 VAC. If in doubt, get an electrician to help you: it's probably cheaper than replacing a burned-out control board if you get it wrong.
Please post a link to the product you're using. I need to buck the voltage (nominal 240) actual. 246, 246,249 ab,bc,a. The equipment I am connecting is 230v specific.
Are you sure it's necessary to buck the voltage? 240 VAC is only 4.3% greater than 230 VAC. That may be within equipment tolerance, and you may already have a few volts' worth of voltage drop at your 240 VAC outlet. If you haven't already contacted the equipment manufacturer, consider asking them whether 240 VAC nominal is adequate. It's very possible that you're fine as you are.
@@greggmgm No, it isn't. Assuming 208Y/120 service, you'll get 120 on one phase (because it's tied to the incoming main) and approx. 150 on the other phase. There's no "of course 240" here, because the two phases are 120°, not 180°, apart. If you're planning to hook up an electric stove to a buck-boost transformer that is boosting 208 VAC to approx. 240 VAC, you'd better be sure that you don't run the "wild" (~150 volt) leg to the circuitry in the stove that is expecting 120 VAC, or you'll risk frying the electronics. On the other hand, if your load expects only 240 VAC with no neutral -- for example, a typical 240 VAC window air conditioner -- the assignment of phases doesn't matter.
great video! I have a question, I have a rotisserie oven 3 ph 208v and our store is 220v single phase, how do I modify the rotisserie oven? unfortunately, my electrician left town for good, he fixed this situation un the past with my first convention oven, took him about 40 minutes to modifythe oven panel, and our oven still works amazing nonstop, and now everyone tells me that they don't know or I can't do it... what's your opinion?
In general, a transformer isn't going to derive three phases of 208Y/120 from 120/240 VAC split phase service. You need to use a phase converter (static, rotary, or digital solid state). It's up to you to decide whether it's worth the expense and inefficiency of a phase converter vs. selling the rotisserie oven and getting one that takes 120/240 VAC. Consider contacting the company that made the rotisserie oven to see if it's possible to rewire it for 120/240 VAC (possibly replacing heating elements and/or the motor), but don't be surprised if it's prohibitively expensive or impossible.
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for your simplified video. I was on a service call wiring a buck booster for the first time ever and your video let me finish the job correctly so thanks. Sincerely, Aaron.
you are very welcome thanks
Ive never done it before and have a job next week which requires a buck tfmr and thanks to this i have more confidence.
Helped a lot used this video to wire up my first transformer
You are my hero Greg!! Great break down for easier understanding. I just finished a job using this video. You helped put money in my pockets. Thank You Sir!!!
Thank you so much
Awesome video. I have a job coming up where I need to use a buck boost transformer and all the diagrams provided are confusing. This made it super simple and easy to understand thank you.
I have 120/208 3 phase and have to power a 1phase 230v 31A compressor.
glad it helped
That’s exactly what I need to do as well, to the T. What did you get to complete the job? We also have a 120/208 3 phase system and need to power an espresso machine
Teacher of the year!
thanks
thank you, I gotta wire one tomorrow for the 1st time.
Did that work out well for you when you were trying to wire it’s not so bad right
We ran out of time/ motivation before getting it compreted
Thank you sir. Saved me from calling an electrician
Thanks man!
Great explanation
Thanks I always try to Explain things but sometimes I don’t do so well thank you
Hello Greg. Is this buck/boost you showing a 1phase 208/240?
Or is it a 3 phase 208/240?
Great video 👌👍
thanks
Your a life saver
thanks
Big help!! Thank you!
Sounds like the guy fro Cars show
Thank you!
You’re welcome thank you too
Hey Greg I just wanted to ask you what is the grey box with the white wire you pointed to in the video. Thanks again great video
Chip
hi it is called a buck boost transformer
Thank you
you are very welcome
Hope your doing well. I was wondering if you could send me a drawing that shows only the 208v to 240v for a 240 outlet.
Hello, really helpful thanks, what if I need to go from 208v to 240v with a neutral? (I do have a neutral on the primary side)
Glad I could help I try to reply to my comment when I see them my brother had a laser set up and it wouldn’t work if it drops below 208 so I did his that way it has been working fantastically it should work perfect for you don’t be scared of it it’s easy
A mean, I need 240v/120v on the secondary
Thanks for replying, I got the wiring, my question is with the neutral, can I use the neutral from the primary to feed the neutral on the secondary since I have 208/120v on the primary and I need 240/120v on the secondary
It depends on whether you need 120 VAC from both of the load-side phases. If so, you'll need an isolation transformer with a center tap, which is bigger and more expensive than a buck-boost transformer.
However, if you're running an appliance like an electric stove, which requires 240 VAC for the heating elements but only one 120 VAC phase for the control board, fan, lighting, etc., you may be able to get away with wiring the 120 VAC load-side phase (i.e. the one that is tied directly to an incoming 120 VAC phase) to the terminal on the stove that requires 120 VAC and wiring the "wild" (~150 VAC) phase to the terminal on the stove that _doesn't_ require 120 VAC. You may need to contact the manufacturer to get a wiring diagram in order to figure out which terminal requires 120 VAC and which one can tolerate 150 VAC. If in doubt, get an electrician to help you: it's probably cheaper than replacing a burned-out control board if you get it wrong.
Please post a link to the product you're using. I need to buck the voltage (nominal 240) actual. 246, 246,249 ab,bc,a. The equipment I am connecting is 230v specific.
that will work look up buck boost its easy
Are you sure it's necessary to buck the voltage? 240 VAC is only 4.3% greater than 230 VAC. That may be within equipment tolerance, and you may already have a few volts' worth of voltage drop at your 240 VAC outlet. If you haven't already contacted the equipment manufacturer, consider asking them whether 240 VAC nominal is adequate. It's very possible that you're fine as you are.
Please help. If I do the 2o8-240 will I get 120 on phase a and 120 on phase b and of course 240 on A-B?
Yes that’s what will happen within a couple of volts
@@greggmgm No, it isn't. Assuming 208Y/120 service, you'll get 120 on one phase (because it's tied to the incoming main) and approx. 150 on the other phase. There's no "of course 240" here, because the two phases are 120°, not 180°, apart.
If you're planning to hook up an electric stove to a buck-boost transformer that is boosting 208 VAC to approx. 240 VAC, you'd better be sure that you don't run the "wild" (~150 volt) leg to the circuitry in the stove that is expecting 120 VAC, or you'll risk frying the electronics. On the other hand, if your load expects only 240 VAC with no neutral -- for example, a typical 240 VAC window air conditioner -- the assignment of phases doesn't matter.
great video! I have a question, I have a rotisserie oven 3 ph 208v and our store is 220v single phase, how do I modify the rotisserie oven? unfortunately, my electrician left town for good, he fixed this situation un the past with my first convention oven, took him about 40 minutes to modifythe oven panel, and our oven still works amazing nonstop, and now everyone tells me that they don't know or I can't do it... what's your opinion?
In general, a transformer isn't going to derive three phases of 208Y/120 from 120/240 VAC split phase service. You need to use a phase converter (static, rotary, or digital solid state). It's up to you to decide whether it's worth the expense and inefficiency of a phase converter vs. selling the rotisserie oven and getting one that takes 120/240 VAC. Consider contacting the company that made the rotisserie oven to see if it's possible to rewire it for 120/240 VAC (possibly replacing heating elements and/or the motor), but don't be surprised if it's prohibitively expensive or impossible.