Hello, thank you for making this video I was going to get the less expensive one since I have a Tab 320S Boondock 2021. I waited last year from April to October but nothing arrived. The owner and I decided on a fair price since I waited so long and got the Quattro I hired an RV technician who actually came to my house. It was a long and complicated installation and happy I got the right guy. This is no simple installation on some campers due to all the equipment under it. The question I have for you: when you attach the wheels (which I also ordered from Purpleline) which hole in the pipe is best to secure the wheels to (higher ones or lower ones) Another question is: how high should you Jack your camper up as I do not want to strain the pipe the wheels are attached to. Finally do you find that moving your camper with the small wheels in the back works the best? (In other words move the camper with the butt leading) I saw that you used some material for soft ground… very important not to get stuck in mud and stay mindful where your going and ground conditions As a newly retired RN I found great comfort using this remote since I solo camp and want to be independent and careful backing in to a campsite or putting it away at home Thanks!!!
Hi Susan and thanks for the comment. Our install was interesting because of the torsion bars on the Trailmanor. I also had to put it in front of the tires because of the things underneath. It's better to put the movers behind the tires if possible. The pipe on my dolly wheels is larger than the one on the tongue jack so I have a spacer that makes it a tight fit. Our pin won't fit with the tongue jack pipe seated fully in the dolly wheels. If you use the securing pin, if it will fit on the higher set of holes it would be better. You want to keep the movement as little as possible. When we move the trailer we have the jack just high enough so everything clears. The lower the jack can be, the less stress on it. If we are on solid ground the dolly wheels work just fine. Loose dirt or gravel can be an issue. Which direction the trailer goes depends on where we are parking it. It works equally well in forward or reverse. It feels a lot more natural moving it tongue first. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
I got the auto one for ease of operation. I also didn't know if the bar on the manual would clear the side of the TM. The manual one would be an easier install with no electrical for the servos. and the actuation linkage didn't look that hard to do.
Hi Pedro and thanks for the comment. The frame brackets were included with the trailer mover, but they come flat with just the one ongle on the end. We had a custom shop bend them for us. We ended up with a 6 1/2 inch drop and a 2 inch frame pad. There was a 1 1/2 inch bend in the original bracket and about 2 inches left for a frame guide. Your drop may be different depending on your tires and ride height. With a tape measure and some cardboard you should be able to get some pretty good dimensions. We installed our bracket lined up with the inside edge of the frame because that's where the instructions showed to put it. If we had it to do again we would form the brackets so we could put them on the outside of the frame. You wouldn't need to modify the shark bite clamp mounts that way. Check out the video at around the 5 minute mark and it shows the brackets and some dimensions. Good luck. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
Hello. I know I has been a while since you created this awesome video, of which I have look at more times than you can imagine. Thanks so much for making it! I have a 2720 queen bed and I would like to do what you did. I used the Trailer Valet, but it does not work any more as it did when new and it is constantly falling out of the hitch and smashing the trail manor to the ground, so I have to stop using it. Your solution looks like it will truly satisfy my issues. Thanks in advance for answering my questions: Is it necessary to custom bend the items you describe or is there any other way to mount them? (Ex. The small area just under where the hinges are) As I do not have a place that bends metal near where I live. I have 15” tires that are about 6 to 6.5” wide. Will the purple line model that you choose work with that size tire? You stated in a previous answer that there is no electrical work needed if you get the manual device. What do you mean by no electrical is needed? In your opinion will the Manually operated one work on the Trail Manor? As you stated you did not think it would fit on the Trail Manor. Again, thanks in advance for your assistance.
Hi Allen and thanks for the comment. We had a TrailerValet 5x originally, but it didn't want to climb our driveway very easily. I ended up replacing the drive chains in it because they stretched and one failed. Still have it in the inventory. Our trailer Valet had a mount that attached to the tongue and locked in. The way our Purple Line mover is mounted, we had to have our mounts modified so we could install them where we did. We built and installed a plumbing protector so we had to put the movers in front of the axle. They might be able to be fitted behind the axle and bolted to the side of the frame with some easy trimming if the movers would clear the plumbing drains and frame extensions. There are some good diagrams with dimensions on the purple line website. A cardboard mockup would be easy to make. The alignment and stowed distance from the tire is very important. There is still electrical work for the manual unit for the motors, just not for the servos. Either the manual or powered models will work on a TM. The width is adjustable on both. The manual has a crossbar that ties both movers together to engage both using a bar instead of the servos . The bar can be used on either side. I think I was worried the manual activation bar might have a clearance problem on the TM. I don't know if it actually does. I also liked the electric application unit better. All the units are adjustable width to fit many frame sizes. We have 15" tires and the movers fit and align fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and safe travels.
Thank You very much for your reply. Your comments are getting me closer to making the final decision. I’m currently leaning more towards the manual option as it is about $600 cheaper. I do have a few additional questions that, once answered, will allow me to push the purchase button. Questions: You commented that placing the device on the back side of the axle. Do that mean that when using the remote to move the Trail Manor you will be moving the front forward and not the back forward, if that makes since? If that is the case I will have to make the same mods you made because the Trail Manor goes into the garage and the hitch needs to be facing forward. In the video you updated that the shark bites can be mounted on the outside of the frame. Does that mean that to make it easier all you had to do was switch your custom brackets, one side to the other, and then we would not have to modify the shark bite? Thanks again for your comments and assistance.
@@ARDobbs Hi Allen. On the remote you can either set the tongue or the rear of the TM as the forward movement. There is complete control of the trailer direction of travel. If the frame brackets can be through bolted to the outside of the frame rail, I think the shark bite brackets will fit without any modification. The frame brackets come flat with just the 90 at the bottom for the shark bites. You''ll have to check to see if the mover will fit behind the off door side tire without being interfered with by whatever plumbing set up you have. We had to mount ours in front of the tires because of our plumbing protector. We had to modify the brackets to clear the torsion bars that pass through the frame. Hope this helps.
Hi Good and thanks for watching. It's overkill for a small trailer even the size of ours but it sure is nice after a long drive and a narrow or offset campsite. There are manual engagement models that cost less as well. Safe travels.
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
genius
Hello, thank you for making this video
I was going to get the less expensive one since I have a Tab 320S Boondock 2021. I waited last year from April to October but nothing arrived. The owner and I decided on a fair price since I waited so long and got the Quattro
I hired an RV technician who actually came to my house. It was a long and complicated installation and happy I got the right guy. This is no simple installation on some campers due to all the equipment under it.
The question I have for you: when you attach the wheels (which I also ordered from Purpleline) which hole in the pipe is best to secure the wheels to (higher ones or lower ones)
Another question is: how high should you Jack your camper up as I do not want to strain the pipe the wheels are attached to.
Finally do you find that moving your camper with the small wheels in the back works the best? (In other words move the camper with the butt leading)
I saw that you used some material for soft ground… very important not to get stuck in mud and stay mindful where your going and ground conditions
As a newly retired RN I found great comfort using this remote since I solo camp and want to be independent and careful backing in to a campsite or putting it away at home
Thanks!!!
Hi Susan and thanks for the comment. Our install was interesting because of the torsion bars on the Trailmanor. I also had to put it in front of the tires because of the things underneath. It's better to put the movers behind the tires if possible. The pipe on my dolly wheels is larger than the one on the tongue jack so I have a spacer that makes it a tight fit. Our pin won't fit with the tongue jack pipe seated fully in the dolly wheels. If you use the securing pin, if it will fit on the higher set of holes it would be better. You want to keep the movement as little as possible. When we move the trailer we have the jack just high enough so everything clears. The lower the jack can be, the less stress on it. If we are on solid ground the dolly wheels work just fine. Loose dirt or gravel can be an issue. Which direction the trailer goes depends on where we are parking it. It works equally well in forward or reverse. It feels a lot more natural moving it tongue first. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
Very impressive Critter! I see that you chose the top of the line auto engage model. Was there a technical reason for that or just the convenience?
I got the auto one for ease of operation. I also didn't know if the bar on the manual would clear the side of the TM. The manual one would be an easier install with no electrical for the servos. and the actuation linkage didn't look that hard to do.
great video that is what i need for mine do you mind sharing the spec of the brackets you order since i would like to order the same ones
Hi Pedro and thanks for the comment. The frame brackets were included with the trailer mover, but they come flat with just the one ongle on the end. We had a custom shop bend them for us. We ended up with a 6 1/2 inch drop and a 2 inch frame pad. There was a 1 1/2 inch bend in the original bracket and about 2 inches left for a frame guide. Your drop may be different depending on your tires and ride height. With a tape measure and some cardboard you should be able to get some pretty good dimensions. We installed our bracket lined up with the inside edge of the frame because that's where the instructions showed to put it. If we had it to do again we would form the brackets so we could put them on the outside of the frame. You wouldn't need to modify the shark bite clamp mounts that way. Check out the video at around the 5 minute mark and it shows the brackets and some dimensions. Good luck. Thanks for watching and safe travels.
@@thecritterandthebutterfly thank you so much for the whole information
Hello. I know I has been a while since you created this awesome video, of which I have look at more times than you can imagine.
Thanks so much for making it!
I have a 2720 queen bed and I would like to do what you did. I used the Trailer Valet, but it does not work any more as it did when new and it is constantly falling out of the hitch and smashing the trail manor to the ground, so I have to stop using it.
Your solution looks like it will truly satisfy my issues.
Thanks in advance for answering my questions:
Is it necessary to custom bend the items you describe or is there any other way to mount them? (Ex. The small area just under where the hinges are) As I do not have a place that bends metal near where I live.
I have 15” tires that are about 6 to 6.5” wide. Will the purple line model that you choose work with that size tire?
You stated in a previous answer that there is no electrical work needed if you get the manual device. What do you mean by no electrical is needed?
In your opinion will the Manually operated one work on the Trail Manor? As you stated you did not think it would fit on the Trail Manor.
Again, thanks in advance for your assistance.
Hi Allen and thanks for the comment. We had a TrailerValet 5x originally, but it didn't want to climb our driveway very easily. I ended up replacing the drive chains in it because they stretched and one failed. Still have it in the inventory. Our trailer Valet had a mount that attached to the tongue and locked in. The way our Purple Line mover is mounted, we had to have our mounts modified so we could install them where we did. We built and installed a plumbing protector so we had to put the movers in front of the axle. They might be able to be fitted behind the axle and bolted to the side of the frame with some easy trimming if the movers would clear the plumbing drains and frame extensions. There are some good diagrams with dimensions on the purple line website. A cardboard mockup would be easy to make. The alignment and stowed distance from the tire is very important. There is still electrical work for the manual unit for the motors, just not for the servos. Either the manual or powered models will work on a TM. The width is adjustable on both. The manual has a crossbar that ties both movers together to engage both using a bar instead of the servos . The bar can be used on either side. I think I was worried the manual activation bar might have a clearance problem on the TM. I don't know if it actually does. I also liked the electric application unit better. All the units are adjustable width to fit many frame sizes. We have 15" tires and the movers fit and align fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching, and safe travels.
Thank You very much for your reply. Your comments are getting me closer to making the final decision.
I’m currently leaning more towards the manual option as it is about $600 cheaper.
I do have a few additional questions that, once answered, will allow me to push the purchase button.
Questions:
You commented that placing the device on the back side of the axle. Do that mean that when using the remote to move the Trail Manor you will be moving the front forward and not the back forward, if that makes since?
If that is the case I will have to make the same mods you made because the Trail Manor goes into the garage and the hitch needs to be facing forward.
In the video you updated that the shark bites can be mounted on the outside of the frame. Does that mean that to make it easier all you had to do was switch your custom brackets, one side to the other, and then we would not have to modify the shark bite?
Thanks again for your comments and assistance.
@@ARDobbs Hi Allen. On the remote you can either set the tongue or the rear of the TM as the forward movement. There is complete control of the trailer direction of travel.
If the frame brackets can be through bolted to the outside of the frame rail, I think the shark bite brackets will fit without any modification. The frame brackets come flat with just the 90 at the bottom for the shark bites. You''ll have to check to see if the mover will fit behind the off door side tire without being interfered with by whatever plumbing set up you have. We had to mount ours in front of the tires because of our plumbing protector. We had to modify the brackets to clear the torsion bars that pass through the frame. Hope this helps.
Thank you for making this video. I think I want to get something like this for my teardrop. I know it’s overkill. :)
Hi Good and thanks for watching. It's overkill for a small trailer even the size of ours but it sure is nice after a long drive and a narrow or offset campsite. There are manual engagement models that cost less as well. Safe travels.