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Ni Family Lights - Power Balancing 300 Resistor Based 12V Pixels
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- In this video, I power balance 300 resistor based 12V pixels. I compare the results of the power balanced pixels to non-power balanced pixels. In addition, I compare the results to the Spiker Lights Power Calculator, so you can determine how to most accurately model your pixels in the calculator.
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Timeline
00:00 Intro
01:05 Power Balance Testing
03:26 Analysis of Data
07:45 Graphical Analysis
10:17 Spiker Lights Calculator Comparison
16:22 Wrap Up
Music Credit:
Better by Anno Domini Beats
Testing the Specs of 12V Resistor Based WS2811 Pixels
• Testing the Specs of 1...
SpikerLights Power Calculator
spikerlights.com/calcpower.aspx
Link to the Data Analysis Spreadsheet
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Thanks again Steve for another great insightful video
Thanks for the video!
My longest run of 12V resistor pixels, without any power balancing/injection, will be 306. I have a 918 pixel matrix that'll be running off 3 ports. I haven't decided if I'm running it at 20, 30, or 40% brightness just yet. But, I've tested 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50% and all seemed to look just fine for my application.
Thanks for all your videos they have been invaluable for me! Very interesting to see the comparisons with the Spiker lights. I tested just to see what was capable (starting at 5% and working up), and I am able to run a 1650 pixel mega tree 12v pixels with a 10amp cable directly to the PSU and only pull 7.92amps at 25% brightness all white (with power balancing) and obviously no power with the controller. When I bumped it to 30% I started to get flicker and it went up to ~9.5 amps. Super confusing though as unless I'm putting it in the calculator wrong (highly possible!) it's different to the spiker lights calculation of 1650 pixels. I will be splitting the power across 2 cables to make it safe and also so I can use a distro board which has a 7.5amp fuse, but was curious how much it would actually draw on its own. As this is just my first year, any thoughts you may have on this would be most welcomed!
Melinda, are you saying that you’re powering 1650 pixels from just the two ends? That’s 825 pixels from either end to the middle, which you’ll definitely get voltage drops. Who knows how low the voltage has sagged to, but at 25%, it seems like there’s just enough for all the pixels to work properly. If that’s the case, that is quite impressive!
You must be on the edge of what those pixels can handle. As you stepped it up, the two ends used more power and the middle voltage sagged so much that the WS2811 chips couldn’t reliable repeat the data signal.
Breaking your tree into two groups will certainly help quite a bit.
@@NiFamilyLights its power balanced but on 1 cable. I've just taken a quick video of the set up (which I 100% acknowledge needs to be split across 2 cables) ruclips.net/user/shorts31lCkqLw4Ts?feature=share
this first one is a test of a sequence (self made) to see how various pics, gifs and video turned out, some better than others. ruclips.net/video/QfdDCuHdmLI/видео.html and 2nd clip a purchased sequence ruclips.net/video/EofzWkEMG2Q/видео.html
Ok, I see. You’re power injecting in 5 places, so the average distance per power injection is somewhere around 330 pixels. That should work pretty good, especially when you divide it into two powered groups. You’ll have great success with that setup.
Excellent videos on the resistor based 2811's! I have learned a tremendous amount from watching your videos and look forward to any in the future. I do have a question - I am building my first display and I have my main controller (HinksPix Pro) at one end of the house, and multiple long range receivers (Hinks Long Range Smart receiver) on the opposite end to control a 4k pixel matrix. The main controller will be feeding house trim runs of ~200-500 pixels for three stories, as it happens they all end on the opposite end of the house near my long range receivers. Could I power inject into the end of those runs with an additional power supply (meanwell 12v 350W) on the end of the runs without tying common ground or negative between power suppliers on either end of the house?
Thanks Mike! To your question, power injecting from a different power supply coming from a different location should work fine as long as you make sure the low voltage ground (aka V-) are bridged between the power sources at the place where you power inject. It’s up to you if you want to break V+ connectivity at the point of power injection.
Thank you in advance for your help. I am going to run a 270 node 6 layer star on top of my 20' mega tree. Port 1 will send data and power to channels 1 - 810 (node 270) with a 20' extension. I am thinking about power injecting at channel 510-511 (node 170-171). I was going to use a power injection T from controller port 2 - no data. I could break the data pin on the T however I think it would be easier (and keep my T intact) to just disconnect the data line from port 2 on the controller. I am a newbie and have not "blinked" a prop yet so asking to see if my logic is correct.
I have also seen where you should "break" the V+ halfway between port #1 (data and power) and port #2 (power only) connection (say node 85 - halfway between nodes 1-170) to prevent two 5 amp fuses becoming a 10 amp fuse? I am only using one power supply (controller has only one power supply). Have not thought about this. Only seen "breaking" the V+ between two different power supplies. I assume these 5 amp fuses would be in parallel - does this make it a 10 amp fuse?
If this is the case (do the parallel 5 amp fuses split the amps, say an 8 amp short send 4 amps to one fuse and 4 amps to the other?). If this is the case then could I just power and data from port 1A and hook another power inject pigtail 1B into port 1 with just V+ and V- connected? Hooking V+ from 1A and 1B together with a ferrel and the same for V- would solve having to many connections on one port.
Hi Rick, you have a number of questions, so this may a multi part answer. I also use the same Star for my tree topper. I run one wire up with power, data, and ground to the first pixel. The data line for my star is all coming from that input, the same as you described as your plan.
I do recommend power injecting at some point in the star. Since you are powering the star from the same power supply, you can do either of the two options you mentioned. You can connect V+ and GND from a second incoming set of wires to pixel 170-171. Since the power is coming from the same power supply, you don’t need to cut the V+ line in the prop. If the power for power injection was coming from a different power supply, you should definitely cut the V+ line in the prop. That would be the case so one power supply doesn’t back feed another power supply.
As for the question about fuses, amps, etc…two 5A fuses in parallel going to the same wires to the prop doesn’t permit 10A. It doesn’t work that way because the wires of the pixels shouldn’t handle more than 5A to be safe.
Hooking 1A and 1B together to a pigtail will not serve any purpose except to increase the chances of wires burning up in case of an issue where the pixels are drawing more power than the wires can handle.
Each 5A fuse should be independently wired to the prop at different locations. This is where cutting the V+ line helps with separation of power across the prop.
@@NiFamilyLights Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I did not think that power injecting from another port, same power supply, would double the amps to 10 but got a comment from someone else to that effect. Again, thanks for all you do for this hobby!😊
I’m curious I been watching your videos and others how many pixels are in the normal show like your own I have gotten the controller but just getting into everything just looking for like a average on what gets used
Hey Chris, I don’t know if there’s a “normal show”. The number of pixels is more dependent upon your planned layout and props.
The show at my home is 8k pixels with two P10 panels. I use one F16V3 with a differential expansion board and 4 differential receiver boards.
At the church show, it’s 10k pixels and originally started with one F16V3 and a differential expansion board. I initially had a lot of pixel failures (addressed by lower the power supplies from 12V to 11.2V), so I ended up using a second F16v3 with a 16 port expansion board to reduce the number of pixels per output.
Hope that info helps.
I started in pixels last year and had a little over 2000. We outlined the house, windows, doors. Had a couple if arches and spiral trees. And then a "small" 16 x 50 megatree and star.
This year, we're adding about 4000 pixels, mainly from some HD props and expansion of the megatree.
Is personally recommend starting with the basics in year 1 (house outline, arches, smaller yard props). Then, each year add some new stuff to keep your show fresh.
Out of curiousity, what do you recommend for fuse blocks? Bill porter suggested we could go up to 10a fuses using 14ga wire for injection. I noticed most of the excel documents floating around start their limit at 5a and most power boards come with 5a. Should I stick to a 5a fuse with my auto fuse block?
KW, I personally use power distro boards with 5A fuses to do power injection. Could you use fuse blocks with higher amperage fuses, sure. However, you will need to be mindful that the pixel wiring is only so thick, and running too much current through them will cause them to heat up, exacerbating power loss and potentially causing them to catch fire.
The 14AWG wire has no problem handling 10A. If you are able to plan things out well, the 14AWG wire can be used to tap into a prop, e.g. a matrix, at many location points which would ensure that the pixel wiring at each injection point isn’t drawing too much power.
That’s why vendor power distro boards stick with 5A fuses to keep things simple and safe. Also, if there is a short somewhere, the 5A fuses blow very fast.
Best of luck to you and your setup.
@@NiFamilyLights All great points! Thanks again for the help!
Can you please put the link where you get the pigtails from?
The pigtails come from the pixel vendors. Any vendor that sells pixels should sell pigtails that match. There are two generally produced versions, xConnect and Ray Wu connectors. Most people over the last few years have gone to using xConnect if you're starting new.
I thought most all pixels ran about .6 watts? Is it just a factor of safety?
Surprisingly, I found out that current resistor based 12V pixels use quite a bit less power. Check out this video where I test the specs of resistor pixels. That said, older 12V regulated pixels do use 0.6W. Newer 12V regulated pixels use a little less. I’m working on that video.
m.ruclips.net/video/bTCcCIw-Kw4/видео.html