Loved all your servicing videos mate! You should totally put in the links to get those proprietary / special tools too, and maybe get some $ back for your efforts! =) Looking forward to more servicing videos!
Thanks you very much for the support. I'm working on getting an amazon affiliates. I thought it would be easy but it turns out there are some hurdles to go over first. either way, the videos will keep coming 👍
🦾👏👏👏 Outstanding job, and good on you myman! Now that you did it once, the next time (and there will be a next time with this shock) will be MUCH easier, and before you know it, you will pump it out in no time flat and never get stuck waiting. Unfortunately, this shock REALLY intimidates most people, yet it's the one shock that people should learn to service if they own it. Its a great shock but it can be so unpredictable. Super glad to read this today, It really made my evening 👍
By far, the most informative content on shocks and forks full services on the Internet, and actually, I've gone through multiple videos from several channels, all of those are not even near to yours. Thank you very much for what you do! Regarding shocks, could you make a video about 200h Float X service? Because it's pretty popular and, you know, manuals are manuals, but the video of how actually it's done gives much more confidence, as well as awareness of what to expect at each step, as well as some extra tips and tricks)))
Thank you SO much for such a gracious comment. 🙂 Yes, I will be making a float X full service video this fall. can't say exactly when it will be posted though. but it won't be to long. 👍
Thank you very much. The plan is to make videos for all versions. I'm super behind at the moment due to unforeseen circumstances, but should be back at it real soon. 👍
I definitely will. The plan is to make videos on as many shock/fork models and years as I can. I believe one of my buddies might be selling a 2022. If he still has it, I'll ask if I can service it before he sells it. It's just a question of time, which Unfortunately has been SUPER tight for me this year.
Thank you very much, it is very understandable! The first part concerning the tools and explaining the specifities of fox tools vs aftermarket tools is really usefull to buy just what you need to service the shock for the first time, thank you again!
I'm very glad to hear you found the video informative. I really hope Fox focuses more on engineering products that limit the use of custom tools. Contrary to popular belief, servicing these products isn't hard. But when products need many costly special tools to be serviced, it can discourage people from servicing their parts. Which is a no-win for everyone
So at 59:00 it’s not use you, they don’t give the seal for the head on that compression knob. All my kits are essentially missing that replacement seal that you were questioning. Guess they don’t include it cause it’s not a dynamic seal, but it is disconcerting to be replacing all the seals except for one…. One other little trick to speed up bleeding it before reinstalling the rebound dial if you have a big enough syringe you can pre-bleed it. Fox shows how on their x2 climb switch upgrade page. You fill a syringe with 4wt and then drop the rebound in, then cover the tip and pull vacuum in the syringe with the dial in there. Once all the bubbles are out you should have prefilled the rebound dial hole with fluid and then you quickly transfer it into the slot. I know fluid will want to leak from the resi but you just need to angle it up or just insert the ifp. Same can be done for the compression dial. Also don’t forget to angle the shock forward and back while tapping it during the glove section to get all the air ! There’s always some bubbles hiding in the corners so angling forward and back and tapping will help, during all the bleeding process. If you use the syringe with the plunger you can bleed the shock from the resi ensuring you get all the air out. You put the c clip in the resi and then push the ifp to it’s recommended depth while cycling the adjusters, then you push the plunger which will push fluid and the ifp to the c clip and you can continue to cycle and tap and angle the shock to be 110% sure no air is in the dial side. And you then bleed the damper body. I like to alternate between pushing the damper shaft all the way in, then the ifp to its depth, then pushing the fluid back and doing that. I often get little bubbles that are hiding in the sharp corners. Also why do you use 5wt r3 and not the 4wt fox recommends? Preference? Lastly, and I’ve asked fox about this.. but when you are putting the back up rings in the eyelet if you look at the picture on fox’s guide it shows the white o top of the oring, but if you look at fox’s technical drawings in the parts page you see that the cad drawings have the order flipped. I asked fox and they said that it is an error on the main rebuild page and to do what the tech drawing says. Just something to keep an eye for!
"So at 59:00 it’s not use you, they don’t give the seal for the head on that compression knob. " It always gets me when this happens, and it has happened on many different products over the years. I can't help to think that I missed something or replaced the wrong part at some point. "One other little trick to speed up bleeding it before reinstalling the rebound dial if you have a big enough syringe you can pre-bleed it. " The process you mention makes sense. I'll definitely try it next time. So many, I'm assuming the same can be done for the compression, no. It has way more spots for air to get trapped than the rebound does. "Also don’t forget to angle the shock forward and back while tapping it during the glove section to get all the air ! There’s always some bubbles hiding in the corners so angling forward and back and tapping will help, during all the bleeding process." This is a great tip folks. "If you use the syringe with the plunger you can bleed the shock from the resi ensuring you get all the air out. " "I've actually tried this in the past. The plunger pulls the IFP all the way in, but I found that sometimes it doesn't push it out as it should. It's the only reason I don't use the plunger, or else I would. Using a vacuum method is always a preference for me. "Also why do you use 5wt r3 and not the 4wt fox recommends? Preference? " The service guide for the 2019 x2 shows R3 5wt oil. I went with what the guide stated. My goal is to keep these guides as close as possible to factory recommendations. I believe it was 2021 when they moved to 4wt, but I have to go back and check to be sure. "Lastly, and I’ve asked fox about this.. but when you are putting the back up rings in the eyelet if you look at the picture on fox’s guide it shows the white o top of the oring, but if you look at fox’s technical drawings in the parts page you see that the cad drawings have the order flipped. I believe the issue is with the 2021 X2 parts drawing. The 2019 x2 guide and parts drawing show the glide ring above the oring when assembled. Now, whether this is accurate or not on the Fox site, I have no idea. I just went with it.😉 As always, thanks for the input, sir. 👍
Thank you very much myman! I'm a bit behind on releasing videos due to unforeseen circumstances but will get back on track soon. Till then if you have an questions or comments please let me know 👍
YUP! It's literally sitting here waiting to be serviced for quite a few weeks now, but between work and other parts for people that I need to catch up on, I've been pushing it out as this one isn't urgent. I'm sure I'll get ot it in may.
Glad to hear you found the video helpful and thank you for the comment. if you have any questions let me know. also, I should be releasing a 2024 x2 service video very soon in case it comes in handy one day
Thanks. That's the plan. unfortunately I'm big time behind schedule. Been traveling due to family health issues and for work, plus I've been working on a massive project. It's the traveling thats delaying me though. The 2021 is a similar process but uses some different tools. I'll look for a 2021 and put a video together first chance I get. winter time is a bit easier because people don't care to have them same day.
Thank for the comment. Very similar, but some different tools. I plan on making a video on each version of this shock. all try to put out a 2022 version soon as a few people have asked for it. 👍
Thank you very much. Very happy to hear the the video was helpful. My plan is to create videos for all shocks, forks etc, from 2015ish and on as time goes by. some brands and models are harder to come across in our area (fox and rockshox inline dominate here in MI by a very wide margin), I'll keep a look out for a cane creek db IL though. It's just a question of time
Спасибо, что нашли время посмотреть видео. Надеюсь, вы найдете их полезными. Если у вас есть какие-либо вопросы, дайте мне знать, и я сделаю все возможное, чтобы ответить на них 👍
I'd give it a shot. watch the video a few times to get the overall feel and I'm sure you'll be fine. You most likely won't need to work on the dials. the base service is actually pretty easy. The bleed process in the video should make bleeding it easier as well. Buy the 2 or 3 custom tools needed from a 3rd party to save a bunch of money. After you service this shock once, you'll be able to service is it within 30 minutes with ease, and on the cheap 👍
If you have never worked on suspension before I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s so easy to scratch your damper body or a sealing service, plus if you have never bled a suspension system before it can be a finicky process. The risk is not really worth the reward. The proper clamps is the most important thing, it can take a lot of force to take the eyelet off sometimes and you could scratch your damper body. If you damage your shock fox won’t warranty it, then you are having to buy a new shock. Also If you are not patient and don’t fully bleed the shock it won’t feel good and you will have wasted your time because you will need to re open it. Not trying to be a pessimist but I have seen and trained a lot of people on suspension service and there are a lot of subtle techniques needed to do it right. Zoub has been doing it so long he’s very competent so he makes it look easy, but when you open it things will be different. What happens if you can’t get the eyelet open, or can’t get the ifp out, what if you scratch the ifp body when you remove the c clip, or if the glide ring gets damaged or the piston gets stuck? Glide rings are extremely difficult to work with and if you do change it you need to size the glide ring with a special tool fox sells. The tolerances are extremely tight with the glide ring. I’ve seen the inner damper tube get stuck and I had to use my whole weight to remove it. All of this to say, there is a lot that can go wrong during a damper service and zoub makes it looks easy, as any professional should. If you feel like risking your shock then go for it, but don’t cheap out on proper clamps, you will damage the sealing service and you will ruin your shock if you use the wrong clamps.
Like your video. Was waiting for base valve dissaaembly but understand tool cost sky rocket prices. Advice i can give because you are using hand bleed, buy 50-100ml syringe and de vacuum oil in it, the shock interval will last longer, because of the oil capability to absorb air bubbles in oil 😊
Interesting. So are you saying to depressurize the oil in order to bring it out of solution prior to filling the shock? also, you talking about the tool below that I used in the video? if yes, it not to expensive and WAY less expensive than the fox equivalent www.ebay.com/itm/254720512203
In reference to what the poster said some people say you should degass the fluid before bleeding. There are mixed schools of thought about that but in general it seems to not really matter. You would just fill a syringe and then cover the tip then pull vacuum till you see the fluid bubble. It’s kinda redundant because it will take awhile to get all the air out and you already get the air out during the bleed. Truly the only way to improve from a hand bleed would be to get a true vacuum bleeder.
@@bobsaget3841 if you riding fork with open bath system it doesn't matter. If system is closed you will get longer service interval for oil to cavitate, after pressuring the system the small bubble will dissapear under pressure, but since x2 system have a lot of oil paths, then why not do better. There is another way how to improve work, but lets keep it a secret.
@@ZjBx3v So its the sme as when scuba diving. Micro bubbles compress under pressure, but when you start to ascend, they come out of solution, which is the cause for the bendz. But in order for this to happen, you have to breathe the air under pressure first, EX: 3 atmospheres. when I ascend back to the surface, 1 atmosphere, the air I breathed can now come out of solution. so the question is how to I keep pressure in the shock while I'm installing the bleed screw? @bob, correct me if I'm wrong, but even with a vacuum machine I would have to separate and adapter in order to install the bleed screw. From what I know this would balance pressure in the shock back to 1 atmosphere.
Wow dude, this is just what I’ve been looking for, one silly question, I assume this service will work for the performance series as well, with less on the dials? I have had an X2 on my dh bike and I always thought the variability in its performance was me, then I switched bikes and there was no variance in my jumping so I started looking closely at the shock and oh my god it behaves differently every day, and I did sent it to my local shop for a full service during the winter
Sorry for the delay, but I've been busy with travel lately. I'm glad you found the guide helpful. Servicing the X2 is year dependent. For the most part, they are VERY similar, but there are minor tool differences between the years for some tasks, such as separating the bearing housing. If you need help figuring these details out, let me know.
Great vid dude 👌 got a question, had a service done on a 2022 X2 about 2 months ago, and it's beginning to lose pressure. Took off the air can cleaned and regreased seals but still losing psi. Reckon it's the ifp seal causing issue? Is there any way to sort, maybe pumping back up ifp, or gotta change all the seals to fix?
Thanks. So just to verify, when filling the air can, you go over a ride, then check the pressure, and it dropped? Or is it the IFP chamber that drops pressure. These are separate chambers, and the chances of both leaking only 2 months after a service would "typically" be rare. I'd start with the air chamber, fill it, cycle it a bunch of times with your body weight, and check it again. Once you are confident that it's not the air chamber, then I would do the same to the IFP chamber. At least they make it easy to check the IFP pressure on this shock. Remember that every time you connect the shock pump, you will lose some pressure due to the pump hoe and dial. The same isn't true when removing a pump, though, at least for most modern pumps. Hopefully, it's the air can. Much quicker fix. If it turns out to be internal, then it's a full-service Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube Hey yep I fill up the air can and after a days riding it can lose 20-40psi. Seems to hold air a bit more if I add more in to begin with but not ideal. I just saw you mentioning IFP pressure in other comments, which I have never checked, so was wondering if that could be it
This is the adapter that I attached to the syringe to help with the bleed. there are other more cost effective options that will do the same job 803-00-463 Kit: Fill Machine Adapter, 04-07 Epic IV, DHX Air, RC2_RC4 Shocks The softjaw hole size for the air can is ~42.8mm for the main body and ~51.6mm for the ribs. If you look at the softjaw in the video there is a step in it. that step is the 51.6.Just as important as the hole size is thickness. the softjaw needs to thinner than a typical softjaw. Ex: mine is ~12.6mm thick. your best best is to buy something on eBay like the following www.ebay.com/itm/264906347821?hash=item3dada6152d:g:0CEAAOSwxA1fCtq4 AS for the eyelid torque tool I believe you mean the following. 398-00-280 Tooling: Eyelet Torque Tool This is the one I use in the video. its excellent! It fit shock eyelets with and without bushings,, and its 1/3 the cost of the fox tool, which only work with bushing in the shock eyelet, which I'm not a fan of www.ebay.com/itm/255463022801?hash=item3b7ac860d1:g:oCwAAOSw3YRiRDJ6 let me know if you have any other questions
I didn't see the use of the IFT depth tool in the video. But when you used it, I noticed the IFT has counterbore, where is the 1.343 in measured? From the bottom or the top of the counterbore?
@@zoubtube Thanks, that's answer my first question where the IFT tools used in the video. But not really sure if the bottom of the IFT tool touches the deeper part (the counterbore) of the IFT or the higher part.
@@francis.creation The tool touches the higher part of the IFP. Not the sunken area. If your going to use a caliper, this is where you will measure from. hope this helps.
Probablemente al final de la temporada, cuando la mayoría de la gente quiere que le den servicio a sus bicicletas. Haré un video a la primera oportunidad que tenga..👍
For you, what is the best suspension combo to do the maintenance yourself, which is reliable and which parts/seals are fairly easy to find ?? ZEB and Super Deluxe Or Fox38 and Float X2 Or RXF38 and TTX2SM THANKS 🙏
I can't allow myself to answer the reliability question for any of these products. I'm a data guy by trade. If I were to answer a reliability question to a CIO, I'd better have a sample size well into the thousands for each, over time, or they'll throw me out a 27-story window. Unless there is a significant engineering flaw that makes itself immediately apparent. I will say the X2 "seems" to be prone to IFP air leakage. Again, I don't have enough data based on overall units manufactured compared to the percentage of those units serviced within the suggested service intervals, which is a BIG detail, as most people don't service their shocks or forks as often as they should. It's expensive to send them in, and the more you ride, the more expensive it gets, which is the reason I keep making these videos-to make it easier and cheaper for people to do so in order to have a better mountain biking experience. I can provide my thoughts on service, though. ZEB and Super Deluxe - both very easy to service, IMO Or Fox38 and Float X2 - FOX38 both pretty easy to service, IMO Or RXF38 and TTX2SM -I've never serviced these. These are VERY rare where I live. Fox and Rockshox monitor my area I'm a huge believer in right to repair and fundamentally believe that engineering should take the end-user experience into consideration when servicing products. Personally, I think Rockshox sort of leads FOX in this space. They seem to be addressing details that make the overall experience easier, which I think is great for their customers.
I would vote for rockshox being the easiest to service by a good margin. The x2 shocks are prone to aeration in the ifp but fox recently (last month) they issued a soft recall where you can send them your x2 and they will do something to the ifp to fix it. You can see on the service page found on ride fox help that any 2019+ x2 will have that notice at the beginning of the service procedure. The issue with fox is they really like the vacuum bleeding, rockshox always shows how to hand bleed and generally make their stuff with that in mind. Rockshox is very friendly and fox can be too depending on who picks up the phone. The super deluxe is so popular that 200hr seals kits keep selling out. I’ve serviced tons of forks and shocks and for your average home mechanic rockshox is the easiest and their products are great, especially their new charger 3 damper. The grip 2 damper is complicated and you need to be really careful with the vvc when you service it, plus that tiny c-clip holding the lsc needle is the devil and I hate fox for making it so hard to work with. So hard to take out and when it shoots out if you lose it your entire fox is dead until you get a new one, the damper will leak without it. Rockshox is much easier especially with their cool ifp clamp tool. I actually love working on the super deluxe shocks because that tool is just fun to use. And they have a tool to test the bleed with for me is the most important thing. Since I don’t have a dyno I have to rely on subjective measures to be confident my bleed was good. But with rockshox you can use the bleed testing tool to test and it’s pass fail. Lastly, the ttx and rxf are the hardest to work on. The fork lower service is as easy as the other forks but the damper and air spring are much more complicated and you need lots of their special tools. I personally ride an Ohlins rxf36 m.2 and it’s the best fork I’ve ever ridden, and as a mechanic I will be able to service it but the home tech will have trouble. The shock has to be sent in. Unless you have a good needle tool, a vacuum bleeder and a nitrogen fill machine. Plus it’s hard to find the tech docs with ifp depth, ifp pressure, and what weight suspension fluid to use. They make a great product but it is quite complicated and needs special tools.
Great video! I did it but once I added air to ifp and tested it it didn’t bounce back very quickly. Is that normal with new seals? Looks like yours came back quickly.
Thanks. It's hard for me to tell how much slower yours is, but they don't all act identically after a rebuild. All shocks (and forks) need a few hours of riding for them to settle into the new seals. As long as you made sure ALL ports were in the fully open position during the bleed and added the correct amount of air pressure, then you're most likely ok. If it's significantly slower, then chances are something was missed during the bleed
It seems fine, no noise. My other concern was installing the top cap for with the schrader valve on ifp after it was set. Shouldn’t you remove the valve stem first to make sure when you push it in it doesn’t move ifp?
@@reefscapes4u As long as the shock was bled correctly, there shouldn't be enough pressure to displace the IFP. If the IFP moves slightly during cap installation, it's likely due to a poorly bled shock, which is a more significant problem
Right on! I don’t think it did, just seemed like the pressure from cap might move it but shock functions great! Thanks again! Now to address the Fox 36 grip 2 I see you have a vid for that as well! Sweet!
couldnt be done. what i wanted anyway couldnt remove the rvs clip or the red knob without it bubbling away leaking all the oil.any way i can do this without full service my red knob is stiff and wont click
Apologies for the late response. Correct me if I'm off on this. Are you trying to service just the rebound knob without taking apart the shock? If yes, you absolutely need to depressurize the shock first. Then you can remove the rebound knob as a whole. The oil in the shock will come out as you expose both low and high speed circuits when removing either knob. If the knob doesn't turn or has become very stiff, there is a good chance that, at some point, it was damaged by overturning it. This is very common with the X2 knobs. Both knobs feel like there is one more click, even though you have reached the last click. People have a tendency to check if there is one more click and apply more force than the knobs can take. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much force to damage them. Let me know if I'm off with the above
Apologies for the delayed response but this one fell through the cracks. It's a "rockshox reverb softjaw". there are aftermarket versions sold for much less that I would consider. hope this helps
Loved all your servicing videos mate! You should totally put in the links to get those proprietary / special tools too, and maybe get some $ back for your efforts! =) Looking forward to more servicing videos!
Thanks you very much for the support. I'm working on getting an amazon affiliates. I thought it would be easy but it turns out there are some hurdles to go over first. either way, the videos will keep coming 👍
Your video was the only one to give me confidence to service my Fox Float X2. Thank you.
🦾👏👏👏 Outstanding job, and good on you myman! Now that you did it once, the next time (and there will be a next time with this shock) will be MUCH easier, and before you know it, you will pump it out in no time flat and never get stuck waiting. Unfortunately, this shock REALLY intimidates most people, yet it's the one shock that people should learn to service if they own it. Its a great shock but it can be so unpredictable. Super glad to read this today, It really made my evening 👍
By far, the most informative content on shocks and forks full services on the Internet, and actually, I've gone through multiple videos from several channels, all of those are not even near to yours. Thank you very much for what you do!
Regarding shocks, could you make a video about 200h Float X service? Because it's pretty popular and, you know, manuals are manuals, but the video of how actually it's done gives much more confidence, as well as awareness of what to expect at each step, as well as some extra tips and tricks)))
Thank you SO much for such a gracious comment. 🙂 Yes, I will be making a float X full service video this fall. can't say exactly when it will be posted though. but it won't be to long. 👍
Another treasure on RUclips. thanks for doing this detailed explanation. Looking forward to see also the new version of fox float x2 being serviced
Thank you very much. The plan is to make videos for all versions. I'm super behind at the moment due to unforeseen circumstances, but should be back at it real soon. 👍
Hoping you could make another vid x2 2022 service, awesome tut!
I definitely will. The plan is to make videos on as many shock/fork models and years as I can. I believe one of my buddies might be selling a 2022. If he still has it, I'll ask if I can service it before he sells it. It's just a question of time, which Unfortunately has been SUPER tight for me this year.
Thank you very much for this very detailed video.
Hopefully it comes in handy for you one day. Thank you very much for the comment
❤❤❤ best channel for service thanks 🙏
Thanks you very much 🙂 More videos to come
Thank you very much, it is very understandable!
The first part concerning the tools and explaining the specifities of fox tools vs aftermarket tools is really usefull to buy just what you need to service the shock for the first time, thank you again!
I'm very glad to hear you found the video informative. I really hope Fox focuses more on engineering products that limit the use of custom tools. Contrary to popular belief, servicing these products isn't hard. But when products need many costly special tools to be serviced, it can discourage people from servicing their parts. Which is a no-win for everyone
So at 59:00 it’s not use you, they don’t give the seal for the head on that compression knob. All my kits are essentially missing that replacement seal that you were questioning. Guess they don’t include it cause it’s not a dynamic seal, but it is disconcerting to be replacing all the seals except for one…. One other little trick to speed up bleeding it before reinstalling the rebound dial if you have a big enough syringe you can pre-bleed it. Fox shows how on their x2 climb switch upgrade page. You fill a syringe with 4wt and then drop the rebound in, then cover the tip and pull vacuum in the syringe with the dial in there. Once all the bubbles are out you should have prefilled the rebound dial hole with fluid and then you quickly transfer it into the slot. I know fluid will want to leak from the resi but you just need to angle it up or just insert the ifp. Same can be done for the compression dial.
Also don’t forget to angle the shock forward and back while tapping it during the glove section to get all the air ! There’s always some bubbles hiding in the corners so angling forward and back and tapping will help, during all the bleeding process.
If you use the syringe with the plunger you can bleed the shock from the resi ensuring you get all the air out. You put the c clip in the resi and then push the ifp to it’s recommended depth while cycling the adjusters, then you push the plunger which will push fluid and the ifp to the c clip and you can continue to cycle and tap and angle the shock to be 110% sure no air is in the dial side. And you then bleed the damper body. I like to alternate between pushing the damper shaft all the way in, then the ifp to its depth, then pushing the fluid back and doing that. I often get little bubbles that are hiding in the sharp corners. Also why do you use 5wt r3 and not the 4wt fox recommends? Preference?
Lastly, and I’ve asked fox about this.. but when you are putting the back up rings in the eyelet if you look at the picture on fox’s guide it shows the white o top of the oring, but if you look at fox’s technical drawings in the parts page you see that the cad drawings have the order flipped. I asked fox and they said that it is an error on the main rebuild page and to do what the tech drawing says. Just something to keep an eye for!
"So at 59:00 it’s not use you, they don’t give the seal for the head on that compression knob. "
It always gets me when this happens, and it has happened on many different products over the years. I can't help to think that I missed something or replaced the wrong part at some point.
"One other little trick to speed up bleeding it before reinstalling the rebound dial if you have a big enough syringe you can pre-bleed it. "
The process you mention makes sense. I'll definitely try it next time. So many, I'm assuming the same can be done for the compression, no. It has way more spots for air to get trapped than the rebound does.
"Also don’t forget to angle the shock forward and back while tapping it during the glove section to get all the air ! There’s always some bubbles hiding in the corners so angling forward and back and tapping will help, during all the bleeding process."
This is a great tip folks.
"If you use the syringe with the plunger you can bleed the shock from the resi ensuring you get all the air out. "
"I've actually tried this in the past. The plunger pulls the IFP all the way in, but I found that sometimes it doesn't push it out as it should. It's the only reason I don't use the plunger, or else I would. Using a vacuum method is always a preference for me.
"Also why do you use 5wt r3 and not the 4wt fox recommends? Preference? "
The service guide for the 2019 x2 shows R3 5wt oil. I went with what the guide stated. My goal is to keep these guides as close as possible to factory recommendations. I believe it was 2021 when they moved to 4wt, but I have to go back and check to be sure.
"Lastly, and I’ve asked fox about this.. but when you are putting the back up rings in the eyelet if you look at the picture on fox’s guide it shows the white o top of the oring, but if you look at fox’s technical drawings in the parts page you see that the cad drawings have the order flipped.
I believe the issue is with the 2021 X2 parts drawing. The 2019 x2 guide and parts drawing show the glide ring above the oring when assembled. Now, whether this is accurate or not on the Fox site, I have no idea. I just went with it.😉
As always, thanks for the input, sir. 👍
Wow, brilliant tutorial, sondetailed and clear. Sucribed
Thank you very much myman! I'm a bit behind on releasing videos due to unforeseen circumstances but will get back on track soon. Till then if you have an questions or comments please let me know 👍
Hi. Thanks for all dude.Will there be a fox float x service?
YUP! It's literally sitting here waiting to be serviced for quite a few weeks now, but between work and other parts for people that I need to catch up on, I've been pushing it out as this one isn't urgent. I'm sure I'll get ot it in may.
amazing guide, tnx bro!
Glad to hear you found the video helpful and thank you for the comment. if you have any questions let me know. also, I should be releasing a 2024 x2 service video very soon in case it comes in handy one day
Hi great job!
what about making a 2021 guide as well?
Regards Fredrik
Thanks. That's the plan. unfortunately I'm big time behind schedule. Been traveling due to family health issues and for work, plus I've been working on a massive project. It's the traveling thats delaying me though. The 2021 is a similar process but uses some different tools. I'll look for a 2021 and put a video together first chance I get. winter time is a bit easier because people don't care to have them same day.
love your videos! keep up with the great job!
thank you very much myman. More video to come 👍
Good video. Love the bleed portion
Thank you sir. More videos to come👍
Great stuff!! I have a 2022 series float x2 2 pos-adj. would it be the same for this shock ? Need to get proper tooling ,,thanks
Thank for the comment. Very similar, but some different tools. I plan on making a video on each version of this shock. all try to put out a 2022 version soon as a few people have asked for it. 👍
Best channel for service videos for beginners! Thank you! Would it be possible for you to make a video on a cane creek db inline air shock? Thanks😊
Thank you very much. Very happy to hear the the video was helpful. My plan is to create videos for all shocks, forks etc, from 2015ish and on as time goes by. some brands and models are harder to come across in our area (fox and rockshox inline dominate here in MI by a very wide margin), I'll keep a look out for a cane creek db IL though. It's just a question of time
Thank you for your reply@@zoubtube :) . Hopefully a shock will come your way soon. Thank you for your great work:)
Мужик спасибо тебе за такие видосы.
Спасибо, что нашли время посмотреть видео. Надеюсь, вы найдете их полезными. Если у вас есть какие-либо вопросы, дайте мне знать, и я сделаю все возможное, чтобы ответить на них 👍
excellent work, thank you
Thank you for taking the time to watch it. Hopefully it helps
how much does this service differ from a 2021+ X2? Will you have a video for that to in the futur?@@zoubtube
Been debating ripping mine apart or sending it in. The Fox race mechanic video he just pops the piston and walks past the bleeding machine
I'd give it a shot. watch the video a few times to get the overall feel and I'm sure you'll be fine. You most likely won't need to work on the dials. the base service is actually pretty easy. The bleed process in the video should make bleeding it easier as well. Buy the 2 or 3 custom tools needed from a 3rd party to save a bunch of money. After you service this shock once, you'll be able to service is it within 30 minutes with ease, and on the cheap 👍
If you have never worked on suspension before I wouldn’t recommend it. It’s so easy to scratch your damper body or a sealing service, plus if you have never bled a suspension system before it can be a finicky process. The risk is not really worth the reward. The proper clamps is the most important thing, it can take a lot of force to take the eyelet off sometimes and you could scratch your damper body. If you damage your shock fox won’t warranty it, then you are having to buy a new shock. Also If you are not patient and don’t fully bleed the shock it won’t feel good and you will have wasted your time because you will need to re open it.
Not trying to be a pessimist but I have seen and trained a lot of people on suspension service and there are a lot of subtle techniques needed to do it right. Zoub has been doing it so long he’s very competent so he makes it look easy, but when you open it things will be different. What happens if you can’t get the eyelet open, or can’t get the ifp out, what if you scratch the ifp body when you remove the c clip, or if the glide ring gets damaged or the piston gets stuck? Glide rings are extremely difficult to work with and if you do change it you need to size the glide ring with a special tool fox sells. The tolerances are extremely tight with the glide ring. I’ve seen the inner damper tube get stuck and I had to use my whole weight to remove it.
All of this to say, there is a lot that can go wrong during a damper service and zoub makes it looks easy, as any professional should. If you feel like risking your shock then go for it, but don’t cheap out on proper clamps, you will damage the sealing service and you will ruin your shock if you use the wrong clamps.
Like your video. Was waiting for base valve dissaaembly but understand tool cost sky rocket prices. Advice i can give because you are using hand bleed, buy 50-100ml syringe and de vacuum oil in it, the shock interval will last longer, because of the oil capability to absorb air bubbles in oil 😊
Interesting. So are you saying to depressurize the oil in order to bring it out of solution prior to filling the shock?
also, you talking about the tool below that I used in the video? if yes, it not to expensive and WAY less expensive than the fox equivalent
www.ebay.com/itm/254720512203
In reference to what the poster said some people say you should degass the fluid before bleeding. There are mixed schools of thought about that but in general it seems to not really matter. You would just fill a syringe and then cover the tip then pull vacuum till you see the fluid bubble. It’s kinda redundant because it will take awhile to get all the air out and you already get the air out during the bleed. Truly the only way to improve from a hand bleed would be to get a true vacuum bleeder.
@@bobsaget3841 if you riding fork with open bath system it doesn't matter. If system is closed you will get longer service interval for oil to cavitate, after pressuring the system the small bubble will dissapear under pressure, but since x2 system have a lot of oil paths, then why not do better. There is another way how to improve work, but lets keep it a secret.
@@ZjBx3v So its the sme as when scuba diving. Micro bubbles compress under pressure, but when you start to ascend, they come out of solution, which is the cause for the bendz. But in order for this to happen, you have to breathe the air under pressure first, EX: 3 atmospheres. when I ascend back to the surface, 1 atmosphere, the air I breathed can now come out of solution.
so the question is how to I keep pressure in the shock while I'm installing the bleed screw?
@bob, correct me if I'm wrong, but even with a vacuum machine I would have to separate and adapter in order to install the bleed screw. From what I know this would balance pressure in the shock back to 1 atmosphere.
Wow dude, this is just what I’ve been looking for, one silly question, I assume this service will work for the performance series as well, with less on the dials? I have had an X2 on my dh bike and I always thought the variability in its performance was me, then I switched bikes and there was no variance in my jumping so I started looking closely at the shock and oh my god it behaves differently every day, and I did sent it to my local shop for a full service during the winter
Sorry for the delay, but I've been busy with travel lately. I'm glad you found the guide helpful. Servicing the X2 is year dependent. For the most part, they are VERY similar, but there are minor tool differences between the years for some tasks, such as separating the bearing housing. If you need help figuring these details out, let me know.
Great vid dude 👌 got a question, had a service done on a 2022 X2 about 2 months ago, and it's beginning to lose pressure. Took off the air can cleaned and regreased seals but still losing psi. Reckon it's the ifp seal causing issue? Is there any way to sort, maybe pumping back up ifp, or gotta change all the seals to fix?
Thanks. So just to verify, when filling the air can, you go over a ride, then check the pressure, and it dropped? Or is it the IFP chamber that drops pressure.
These are separate chambers, and the chances of both leaking only 2 months after a service would "typically" be rare. I'd start with the air chamber, fill it, cycle it a bunch of times with your body weight, and check it again. Once you are confident that it's not the air chamber, then I would do the same to the IFP chamber. At least they make it easy to check the IFP pressure on this shock. Remember that every time you connect the shock pump, you will lose some pressure due to the pump hoe and dial. The same isn't true when removing a pump, though, at least for most modern pumps.
Hopefully, it's the air can. Much quicker fix. If it turns out to be internal, then it's a full-service
Let me know how it goes.
@@zoubtube Hey yep I fill up the air can and after a days riding it can lose 20-40psi. Seems to hold air a bit more if I add more in to begin with but not ideal. I just saw you mentioning IFP pressure in other comments, which I have never checked, so was wondering if that could be it
Couple questions. What is the exact name of the adapter on the end of the syringe. Also what size is the soft jaw for the shaft body?
Also the name of the tool you used in the eyelid to torque it..thanks
This is the adapter that I attached to the syringe to help with the bleed. there are other more cost effective options that will do the same job
803-00-463 Kit: Fill Machine Adapter, 04-07 Epic IV, DHX Air, RC2_RC4 Shocks
The softjaw hole size for the air can is ~42.8mm for the main body and ~51.6mm for the ribs. If you look at the softjaw in the video there is a step in it. that step is the 51.6.Just as important as the hole size is thickness. the softjaw needs to thinner than a typical softjaw. Ex: mine is ~12.6mm thick. your best best is to buy something on eBay like the following
www.ebay.com/itm/264906347821?hash=item3dada6152d:g:0CEAAOSwxA1fCtq4
AS for the eyelid torque tool I believe you mean the following.
398-00-280 Tooling: Eyelet Torque Tool
This is the one I use in the video. its excellent! It fit shock eyelets with and without bushings,, and its 1/3 the cost of the fox tool, which only work with bushing in the shock eyelet, which I'm not a fan of
www.ebay.com/itm/255463022801?hash=item3b7ac860d1:g:oCwAAOSw3YRiRDJ6
let me know if you have any other questions
Great job , tks
Please ifp how many mm is it ? Tks
The IFP depth is 1.14" or 28.956 mm deep
@zoubtube sorry , on pdf online fox is write 1,343 inch , for my x2 2020 , grazie
I didn't see the use of the IFT depth tool in the video. But when you used it, I noticed the IFT has counterbore, where is the 1.343 in measured? From the bottom or the top of the counterbore?
You can see the tool being used at 1:28:38 it presses from the top
@@zoubtube Thanks, that's answer my first question where the IFT tools used in the video. But not really sure if the bottom of the IFT tool touches the deeper part (the counterbore) of the IFT or the higher part.
@@francis.creation The tool touches the higher part of the IFP. Not the sunken area. If your going to use a caliper, this is where you will measure from. hope this helps.
@@zoubtube Thanks for that info. Definitely helps.
Hola Zou! Para cuando un mantenimiento a una rockshox lpyric ultimate rc 2.1 ??
Probablemente al final de la temporada, cuando la mayoría de la gente quiere que le den servicio a sus bicicletas. Haré un video a la primera oportunidad que tenga..👍
Hello great video, or find you the volume ifp oil and pressure for fox shocks ?
Thanks. but I'm not sure what the actual questions is. when you get a moment can you ask it again. thanks
For you, what is the best suspension combo to do the maintenance yourself, which is reliable and which parts/seals are fairly easy to find ??
ZEB and Super Deluxe
Or
Fox38 and Float X2
Or
RXF38 and TTX2SM
THANKS 🙏
I can't allow myself to answer the reliability question for any of these products. I'm a data guy by trade. If I were to answer a reliability question to a CIO, I'd better have a sample size well into the thousands for each, over time, or they'll throw me out a 27-story window. Unless there is a significant engineering flaw that makes itself immediately apparent.
I will say the X2 "seems" to be prone to IFP air leakage. Again, I don't have enough data based on overall units manufactured compared to the percentage of those units serviced within the suggested service intervals, which is a BIG detail, as most people don't service their shocks or forks as often as they should. It's expensive to send them in, and the more you ride, the more expensive it gets, which is the reason I keep making these videos-to make it easier and cheaper for people to do so in order to have a better mountain biking experience.
I can provide my thoughts on service, though.
ZEB and Super Deluxe - both very easy to service, IMO
Or
Fox38 and Float X2 - FOX38 both pretty easy to service, IMO
Or
RXF38 and TTX2SM -I've never serviced these. These are VERY rare where I live. Fox and Rockshox monitor my area
I'm a huge believer in right to repair and fundamentally believe that engineering should take the end-user experience into consideration when servicing products. Personally, I think Rockshox sort of leads FOX in this space. They seem to be addressing details that make the overall experience easier, which I think is great for their customers.
I would vote for rockshox being the easiest to service by a good margin. The x2 shocks are prone to aeration in the ifp but fox recently (last month) they issued a soft recall where you can send them your x2 and they will do something to the ifp to fix it. You can see on the service page found on ride fox help that any 2019+ x2 will have that notice at the beginning of the service procedure. The issue with fox is they really like the vacuum bleeding, rockshox always shows how to hand bleed and generally make their stuff with that in mind. Rockshox is very friendly and fox can be too depending on who picks up the phone. The super deluxe is so popular that 200hr seals kits keep selling out. I’ve serviced tons of forks and shocks and for your average home mechanic rockshox is the easiest and their products are great, especially their new charger 3 damper. The grip 2 damper is complicated and you need to be really careful with the vvc when you service it, plus that tiny c-clip holding the lsc needle is the devil and I hate fox for making it so hard to work with. So hard to take out and when it shoots out if you lose it your entire fox is dead until you get a new one, the damper will leak without it. Rockshox is much easier especially with their cool ifp clamp tool. I actually love working on the super deluxe shocks because that tool is just fun to use. And they have a tool to test the bleed with for me is the most important thing. Since I don’t have a dyno I have to rely on subjective measures to be confident my bleed was good. But with rockshox you can use the bleed testing tool to test and it’s pass fail. Lastly, the ttx and rxf are the hardest to work on. The fork lower service is as easy as the other forks but the damper and air spring are much more complicated and you need lots of their special tools. I personally ride an Ohlins rxf36 m.2 and it’s the best fork I’ve ever ridden, and as a mechanic I will be able to service it but the home tech will have trouble. The shock has to be sent in. Unless you have a good needle tool, a vacuum bleeder and a nitrogen fill machine. Plus it’s hard to find the tech docs with ifp depth, ifp pressure, and what weight suspension fluid to use. They make a great product but it is quite complicated and needs special tools.
Great video! I did it but once I added air to ifp and tested it it didn’t bounce back very quickly. Is that normal with new seals? Looks like yours came back quickly.
Thanks. It's hard for me to tell how much slower yours is, but they don't all act identically after a rebuild. All shocks (and forks) need a few hours of riding for them to settle into the new seals. As long as you made sure ALL ports were in the fully open position during the bleed and added the correct amount of air pressure, then you're most likely ok. If it's significantly slower, then chances are something was missed during the bleed
It seems fine, no noise. My other concern was installing the top cap for with the schrader valve on ifp after it was set. Shouldn’t you remove the valve stem first to make sure when you push it in it doesn’t move ifp?
@@reefscapes4u As long as the shock was bled correctly, there shouldn't be enough pressure to displace the IFP. If the IFP moves slightly during cap installation, it's likely due to a poorly bled shock, which is a more significant problem
Right on! I don’t think it did, just seemed like the pressure from cap might move it but shock functions great! Thanks again! Now to address the Fox 36 grip 2 I see you have a vid for that as well! Sweet!
couldnt be done.
what i wanted anyway
couldnt remove the rvs clip or the red knob without it bubbling away leaking all the oil.any way i can do this without full service my red knob is stiff and wont click
Apologies for the late response. Correct me if I'm off on this. Are you trying to service just the rebound knob without taking apart the shock? If yes, you absolutely need to depressurize the shock first. Then you can remove the rebound knob as a whole. The oil in the shock will come out as you expose both low and high speed circuits when removing either knob.
If the knob doesn't turn or has become very stiff, there is a good chance that, at some point, it was damaged by overturning it. This is very common with the X2 knobs. Both knobs feel like there is one more click, even though you have reached the last click. People have a tendency to check if there is one more click and apply more force than the knobs can take. Unfortunately, it doesn't take much force to damage them.
Let me know if I'm off with the above
whats the soft jaws tool where do ya get it?
Apologies for the delayed response but this one fell through the cracks. It's a "rockshox reverb softjaw". there are aftermarket versions sold for much less that I would consider. hope this helps