Great video, David. On behalf of all my electronics devices, thank you for saving them from my curiosity. By the way, that terrible feeling you get when you cut through a ribbon cable or snap a piece of the enclosure is known in the automotive industry as mechanical empathy. (also applicable when something runs poorly or wears itself down while running)
@@a531016 I was actually trying to figure that out. Best I can do for now is back when I lived in Denmark there were a lot of automated lawn mowers (think a Roomba with blades). I was always curious about their safety features. I once saw a couple of children run up and kick one which effectively shut it off before panicking and running away in surprise as if they'd accidentally killed the neighbors cat. 😄 I'll let you know if anything else comes to mind.
The A100 has lot in common with the slightly earlier Minolta Maxxum 5D and 7D DLSR models. Sony had purchased Minolta not long before and carried the design forward with some updates and rebranding.
I felt the same way - my sister in low is into photography, and i sent her a photo of the parts saying "I hope the photography gods forgive me"! Although I felt better when i realised how badly damaged it was too!
The auto focus on the old minolta lenses isn't using a servo in the lens, minolta was all in with building as much into the body as possible, in body stabilization, and in body autofocus motors
The movable sensor is needed for imagestabalisation. No one can hold a camera absolutely still. To compensate this shaky movements there are 3d or 6d accellerometers that give the information, in which direction the camera body moves. A controller then applys movements of the sensor in the opposite direction. Another way of doing a imagestabalisation is to move a lens inside the pbjective. What makes more sense is a philosophycal debate.
Absolutely! I mentioned the stabilisation right at the begining and then promptly forgot it! I was mostly caught of guard by it as my Nikon has it as a lense featue!
Having the stabilization in the body (as in this one) makes for cheaper, smaller, lighter lenses but complicates things because it has to be able to adjust differently for each lens and even differently for a single Zoom lens at different focal lengths. Putting the image stabilization in the lenses makes for cheaper, smaller, lighter camera bodies (and gives you the option to go without image stabilization in high vibration environments) but makes the lenses more expensive, bigger and heavier. In high vibration/impact environments such as motorsports, mechanical image stabilization is a bad thing because vibrations and bumps actually jar the mechanism and make the image worse. Even with OIS turned off, the sensor or focus point is not absolutely solidly in place and so inertia will force it out of position during vibrations and bumps. That's why GoPros and other action cams that only have software image stabilization often have a much clearer, more stable image than a big, fancy DSLR in action sport situations. If you have a DSLR with image stabilization in the lenses and like to do vlogs and such, try getting a lens without stabilization, preferably fixed focal length as well. If the stabilization is in the body, you're out of luck. You're probably better off with a decent action cam. They're much easier and safer to mount anyway, and much cheaper if things go wrong and the camera gets lost or damaged.
@@awo1fman having the imagestabalisation in the camera body, has two major effects. First this type of imagestabalisation has only to compensate the shaky movement of the camera body. It's not related to the focal length. And second the motion of the sensor must be driven by motors. That produces heat. More heat in the camerabody causes more noise to the sensor, the images tend get more noisier.
@@Georg_Hannes Wrong. The focal length determines exactly how far the sensor has to move in order to keep the image stable. Just like when you zoom in with a non-stabilized lens it's much harder to keep your composition aimed. Longer lenses are harder to stabilize. Which is another reason having stabilization in the body rather than the lens is a bad idea. There's a hard limit on how far the sensor can move, but the lens can bend the light as far as it needs to (although there are practical limits on that as well).
My first three digital cameras were Olympus P&S mini cameras (1,2,5 mega pixel). Then got a Sony A100 series (successor to the one you're tearing down), along with some used Minolta lenses and external flash). Replaced that with a Panasonic G3, and now have a G85. I started out in photography with a Nikon FE and latter added an FA body. Had quite an assortment of Nikkor lenses along the way. (Which I'd kept a few of them). Gray code only changes one bit at a time, where BCD (binary) coding can changes several bits at a time. Two bit gray code wheels won't give a position, just tell direction of turn, and an external counter tallies up the distance turned. These are used for the tuning dials on radios.
what did you use to take off the eye sight rubber piece? I cannot seem to find the right one to remove the 2 screws that go inside holding the rubber to the back plate
My first DSLR was actually a Minolta Maxxum 7D (or Dynax 7D/alpha 7). Very similar in appearance to the Sony a100, but the a100 had a lot of upgrades. Having shared that, bent pins in the CF slot was pretty common on the a100's. People would jam the card in rather than ease it in. Dental pick will straighten them out if you are careful. I have bought and repaired a couple.
Hello been wanting a 7d to add to my collection for awhile now, but I've been very skeptic since it turns out that the Minolta 7d have major flaws in its design or manufacturing (I believe it was the black screen of death not sure, but that's what I remember from my research) that it turned me off from getting the 7d. What is your experience with the 7d, and are you aware of the issues that plagued this camera?
Sometimes you will use the internal flash mixed with natural light for a certain effect, but yes, a good photographer does not use flash like most people use flash with their phones.
You have no idea what you're talking about. A good photographer knows he needs light, both in quantity and quality, and the difference with a not so good photographer is that he knows how to get it. The use or not of flashes does not make the photographer, but how he uses them when necessary for many types of photography. The fact that you should not use flash is a myth repeated by ... amateurs. The importance of internal flashes in both Minolta and later in Sony DSLRs is that they can be used to control external (proprietary) flashes optically without the need to use radio triggers. As flashes they had the limitation of providing quantity of light but without being able to control the quality of the same, which is why they are more valuable as controllers.
13:25 I came here because my alpha 100 will not read sd cards and keeps saying format card... it is updated to the latest firmware... how do I fix it? edit: I noticed I wrote a reply 9 months ago... I love this camera and I bought it new any help much appreciated.... hmmm I might follow this video and tear it down and see if any pins are pushed in although looking down the card slot they look fine to me... all straight....
I also guessed it is for image stabilization, but I thought was implemented inside the lenses. I have a Canon 70D, I wonder if is the same approach, because the switch of that functionality is on the lens module...
It's definitely for image stabilisation. In-body image stabilisation (IBIS) is more common on mirrorless cameras than DSLRs, but companies such as Olympus have used it to great effect.
@Test86 One4 We were always given Sony as an example of a high quality manufacturer at school. The high build quality and excuisite quality control. Having now taken 2 Sony devices apart, I completely understand!
@@a531016 Creating a frequency in Hertz, used in different ways pair with other components or cluster of components. I think so, at least. I'm new to the stuff, and don't want to Google it right now, sorry.
Right, so I guess it works in tandem with one or more capacitors to deliver faster and more efficient flash charging capabilities. Source: electronics.howstuffworks.com/camera-flash3.htm
These things are two gyros. Placed 90 dregree apart to detect the movement of the camera. That's the input to the Steady shot system. It can detect the movement of the body with the help of these two gyros and move the sensor accordingly.
This is my first camera worked great for a few years and now takes a picture then refuses to save it and comes up with an error and its sat in my cupboard for the past ten years...
My bad, as I said, I'm not particularly camera fluent! Actually after shooting this, i watched a video titled somthing like "why APS was the worst thing to happen to phtography" and the size of sensors was mentioned then too!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
My first DSLR? This one!! It was so cool seeing all of the insides of something I spent about 6 years with, thank you!!
Sensor movement is for stabilization.
My first digital camera DSLR was a Canon 350D
When can we expect the re-assembly video? :D
On this one - shortly after pigs fly...
Great video, David. On behalf of all my electronics devices, thank you for saving them from my curiosity.
By the way, that terrible feeling you get when you cut through a ribbon cable or snap a piece of the enclosure is known in the automotive industry as mechanical empathy. (also applicable when something runs poorly or wears itself down while running)
I have felt that a little too often for my liking! Any thing else we can save from your curiosity?
@@a531016 I was actually trying to figure that out. Best I can do for now is back when I lived in Denmark there were a lot of automated lawn mowers (think a Roomba with blades). I was always curious about their safety features. I once saw a couple of children run up and kick one which effectively shut it off before panicking and running away in surprise as if they'd accidentally killed the neighbors cat. 😄
I'll let you know if anything else comes to mind.
My very first dslr, brilliant camera and the sensor movement you highlighted was part of the image stabilisation system
I totally have one of those, still usable and they are fun to tinker with the older software hardware combo
The A100 has lot in common with the slightly earlier Minolta Maxxum 5D and 7D DLSR models. Sony had purchased Minolta not long before and carried the design forward with some updates and rebranding.
The A100 was my first DSLR. This is very interesting but also a little painful seeing one take apart.
I felt the same way - my sister in low is into photography, and i sent her a photo of the parts saying "I hope the photography gods forgive me"! Although I felt better when i realised how badly damaged it was too!
The auto focus on the old minolta lenses isn't using a servo in the lens, minolta was all in with building as much into the body as possible, in body stabilization, and in body autofocus motors
Great video! now put it back together
The movable sensor is needed for imagestabalisation. No one can hold a camera absolutely still. To compensate this shaky movements there are 3d or 6d accellerometers that give the information, in which direction the camera body moves. A controller then applys movements of the sensor in the opposite direction. Another way of doing a imagestabalisation is to move a lens inside the pbjective.
What makes more sense is a philosophycal debate.
Absolutely! I mentioned the stabilisation right at the begining and then promptly forgot it! I was mostly caught of guard by it as my Nikon has it as a lense featue!
@@a531016 yes Nikon calls it vibration reduction short VR.
Having the stabilization in the body (as in this one) makes for cheaper, smaller, lighter lenses but complicates things because it has to be able to adjust differently for each lens and even differently for a single Zoom lens at different focal lengths. Putting the image stabilization in the lenses makes for cheaper, smaller, lighter camera bodies (and gives you the option to go without image stabilization in high vibration environments) but makes the lenses more expensive, bigger and heavier.
In high vibration/impact environments such as motorsports, mechanical image stabilization is a bad thing because vibrations and bumps actually jar the mechanism and make the image worse. Even with OIS turned off, the sensor or focus point is not absolutely solidly in place and so inertia will force it out of position during vibrations and bumps. That's why GoPros and other action cams that only have software image stabilization often have a much clearer, more stable image than a big, fancy DSLR in action sport situations. If you have a DSLR with image stabilization in the lenses and like to do vlogs and such, try getting a lens without stabilization, preferably fixed focal length as well. If the stabilization is in the body, you're out of luck. You're probably better off with a decent action cam. They're much easier and safer to mount anyway, and much cheaper if things go wrong and the camera gets lost or damaged.
@@awo1fman having the imagestabalisation in the camera body, has two major effects. First this type of imagestabalisation has only to compensate the shaky movement of the camera body. It's not related to the focal length. And second the motion of the sensor must be driven by motors. That produces heat. More heat in the camerabody causes more noise to the sensor, the images tend get more noisier.
@@Georg_Hannes Wrong. The focal length determines exactly how far the sensor has to move in order to keep the image stable. Just like when you zoom in with a non-stabilized lens it's much harder to keep your composition aimed. Longer lenses are harder to stabilize.
Which is another reason having stabilization in the body rather than the lens is a bad idea. There's a hard limit on how far the sensor can move, but the lens can bend the light as far as it needs to (although there are practical limits on that as well).
My first three digital cameras were Olympus P&S mini cameras (1,2,5 mega pixel). Then got a Sony A100 series (successor to the one you're tearing down), along with some used Minolta lenses and external flash). Replaced that with a Panasonic G3, and now have a G85.
I started out in photography with a Nikon FE and latter added an FA body. Had quite an assortment of Nikkor lenses along the way. (Which I'd kept a few of them).
Gray code only changes one bit at a time, where BCD (binary) coding can changes several bits at a time. Two bit gray code wheels won't give a position, just tell direction of turn, and an external counter tallies up the distance turned. These are used for the tuning dials on radios.
Thanks, that's a much better explanation than the one i fumbled over in the video!
what did you use to take off the eye sight rubber piece? I cannot seem to find the right one to remove the 2 screws that go inside holding the rubber to the back plate
any idea if i'd be possible to replace the CF port? i have the same damage, and think it might be a fun(ish) project to attempt.
My first DSLR was actually a Minolta Maxxum 7D (or Dynax 7D/alpha 7). Very similar in appearance to the Sony a100, but the a100 had a lot of upgrades.
Having shared that, bent pins in the CF slot was pretty common on the a100's. People would jam the card in rather than ease it in. Dental pick will straighten them out if you are careful. I have bought and repaired a couple.
Hello been wanting a 7d to add to my collection for awhile now, but I've been very skeptic since it turns out that the Minolta 7d have major flaws in its design or manufacturing (I believe it was the black screen of death not sure, but that's what I remember from my research) that it turned me off from getting the 7d. What is your experience with the 7d, and are you aware of the issues that plagued this camera?
My first DSRL. The pins for the card reader are bent, can you show how to straighten them as no replacement parts available.
Sometimes you will use the internal flash mixed with natural light for a certain effect, but yes, a good photographer does not use flash like most people use flash with their phones.
You have no idea what you're talking about. A good photographer knows he needs light, both in quantity and quality, and the difference with a not so good photographer is that he knows how to get it. The use or not of flashes does not make the photographer, but how he uses them when necessary for many types of photography. The fact that you should not use flash is a myth repeated by ... amateurs. The importance of internal flashes in both Minolta and later in Sony DSLRs is that they can be used to control external (proprietary) flashes optically without the need to use radio triggers. As flashes they had the limitation of providing quantity of light but without being able to control the quality of the same, which is why they are more valuable as controllers.
the first digital camera I ever bought was a FujiFilm digital point & shoot 640x480 pixels. I got it in Tokyo, Japan in 1998.
13:25 I came here because my alpha 100 will not read sd cards and keeps saying format card... it is updated to the latest firmware... how do I fix it? edit: I noticed I wrote a reply 9 months ago... I love this camera and I bought it new any help much appreciated.... hmmm I might follow this video and tear it down and see if any pins are pushed in although looking down the card slot they look fine to me... all straight....
My first digital camera was a CANON PowerShot G2. My first DSLR was a Nikon D70, that is used until today. And the second DSLR is a Nikon D80.
I also guessed it is for image stabilization, but I thought was implemented inside the lenses. I have a Canon 70D, I wonder if is the same approach, because the switch of that functionality is on the lens module...
My Nikon has it in the lense too, which is probably why it took me so long to realise what it was for in this Sony!
It's definitely for image stabilisation. In-body image stabilisation (IBIS) is more common on mirrorless cameras than DSLRs, but companies such as Olympus have used it to great effect.
@@wilkgr I guess that makes a lot of sense, so on a mirrorless you will get the same frameing in the viewfinder! Great spot!
Antishake as Minolta used to call it (when they invented it). I never really liked the term steady shot.
It does what it says though right? I think Sony use the name on all their consumer level products right through to their high end pro kit too?
@Test86 One4 We were always given Sony as an example of a high quality manufacturer at school. The high build quality and excuisite quality control. Having now taken 2 Sony devices apart, I completely understand!
What can i do if the camera has problems with reading/using memory cards?
My first DSLR is the one you’re taking apart
Cool! Waiting for lens and the moving sensor thing
Head over to the e14 Commnunity www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-95405/l/the-eiectronics-inside-25-sony-dslr-teardown-bonus-content
@@a531016 thanks
The part at 12:06 is oscillator, I think.
I'm still none the wiser! I happy to take your word for it. What do you think the pairing would be used for?
@@a531016 Creating a frequency in Hertz, used in different ways pair with other components or cluster of components. I think so, at least. I'm new to the stuff, and don't want to Google it right now, sorry.
Right, so I guess it works in tandem with one or more capacitors to deliver faster and more efficient flash charging capabilities. Source: electronics.howstuffworks.com/camera-flash3.htm
These things are two gyros. Placed 90 dregree apart to detect the movement of the camera. That's the input to the Steady shot system. It can detect the movement of the body with the help of these two gyros and move the sensor accordingly.
@@a.c.e.repair2173 You're totally right. Those are gyro sensors. I should've Googled the part number instead of simply guessing, haha.
Great Video. Thanks a lot.
This is my first camera worked great for a few years and now takes a picture then refuses to save it and comes up with an error and its sat in my cupboard for the past ten years...
oh yeah Buzz Lightyear repair you camera ! really nice
Cool video thank you.
Meu nome é Antônio. Sou de Parnaiba PI BRASIL.
Muito bom vídeo. Totalmente educativo, obrigado. (Thank you)
This is cool
Ubuntu said. Don't trust him.
That's not a full frame sensor. Its meerly an APS-C size sensor.
My bad, as I said, I'm not particularly camera fluent! Actually after shooting this, i watched a video titled somthing like "why APS was the worst thing to happen to phtography" and the size of sensors was mentioned then too!
Sony's first ever DSLR... After buying the KM camera business.
How the hell are you gonna out that back together??!! 🙀
Sony Mavica with floppy drive!
I like the sound of that!
nikon d70