Thanks for posting your video, after watching it, it appears to me that the isolator connects your two batteries in parallel (and not in series as mentioned in the video) by connecting their two positive terminals together (and of course the two batteries negative / ground terminals are connected to each other via truck's chassis). A potential issue with this setup happens when the engine is off (isolator is open) and battery # 2 is used by the loads on the inverter , causing the battery#2 to discharge. Now, when you turn the engine back on, the isolator closes and connects a discharged battery # 2 in parallel to the fully charged battery #1. This may not be an issue depending on battery #2 discharged level, and it will look like jump starting a car by connecting a running car to another car with a dead battery to jump start the other car.
Oh man, I'm glad you are mentioning this ... I'll have to recheck everything in the morning. I've been assuming they were in series for years without closely examining the setup. Doh! Much appreciated man
(Series means doubling the voltage to 24v, parallel keeps the same 12v.) I use a $10 blade-style disconnect set from O'Reilly. Pop the hood & flip the switches up whenever you might be running a bit too low on voltage, (like less than 12 v) and it will save your cranking battery (same idea, just cheaper)
Yes the setup is in parallel, series would be running one battery positive to the other battery’s ground and would create a 24v setup like some diesels use
I’m not a RUclipsr so I can’t make a video, but I have similar setup with a high output alternator also. I liked your video if I could recommend an isolator it would be the one from Painless performance because you can use it to jump start yourself as well, but is mostly the same as your setup.
Love it! Nice diagram very informative Illustration-I often run my battery out and have to get a jump , I’m going to buy a leisure battery with an isolator to run my inverter that I just installed in my cargo van 2013 Chevy Express
That explanation was awesome thank you very much now I can go down and get parts to put my inverter in I will keep your video on top until I get mine in thank you very much you're awesome I give you thumbs up Pierre do I need an ignition Source if so cool if not cooler?
Mine is fused just in case. As a general rule I fuse any accessories just to avoid an overload. As for your question about the trigger wire: check the wiring diagram on the isolator. It's pretty simple with power coming in and out: it kind of works like a switch.
1 You should always fuse anything you install if it does not already have one. 2 Look to see if there are any ignition accessories that you do not have and find the fuse place in the fuse box. Such as if you do not have power windows. The wiring may not be there but the power bus should still be set up for it in the fuse box. You can take the time and get the right connector and put in the in the fuse box or you can use a fuse tap or add-a-fuse.
It works just like a relay. Actually those stinger relays are just that. They don't need much , I think it's .5 amp to close the circuit. I have this setup on my air ride bus. I haven't had any voltage issues with the house battery being low and main battery fully charged. It seems to level out the batteries. I used to have a smart relay that would open and close when it hit certain metrics, the problem I found was when the air pumps were running that smart relay was always closing and opening. Drove me crazy. I went back to the simple stinger relay. Haven't had an issue since
Thanks for the information! One question? Will the second battery recharge with the alternator, or will I have to manually recharge it when it's depleted?
I’m trying to put in a dual battery system for my 2018 Ford F250 but the TSB instructions do not say to use an isolator but I am putting a Salter and a plow on my truck. Do you know why they say not to use an isolator there is no mention of it.
My very amateur sense is that the isolator is for when you want the second battery as a leisure battery or backup. If you're just putting the second battery in parallel to have more amp hours, you don't need or want an isolator.
Can you use the second battery to start the truck, in case the first battery is dead? Or are both used when starting the truck? Great video, it really helped my understanding.
If you use the right battery isolator then yes; some battery isolators like the one I have from Painless Performance use a switch to allow this when needed
It’d be cool if you showed the ignition connection. Every video I’ve watched for the past 2 days clearly says that you need to connect the ignition wire. But they don’t show you where they connected theirs. Is it supposed to be some highly kept secret?
Oh man, you've been on a scavenger hunt and have come up empty! Sorry it didn't come through in this vid. This might help if you're running a truck like mine www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/3/yeard/Chevrolet.html
Could you explain how you relocated the vapor canister so the battery tray would fit on the drivers side? I’m about to install a second battery for my snowplow but the canister is in the way of where the tray bolts.
Hmmmmm, I don't recall having a problem with that. My Chevy is a 1990 2500 Silverado. I'm thinking that in your situation you'll need to get some hose for the canister and squeeze it in somewhere else. May be a tight fit
Hey Metaspencer, i read through the comments but didn't see what I'm looking for, Sorry if this has been asked before. I have an 09 Sierra with a stock 145 amp alternator, If I'm charging a second battery that has been drained would it be a good idea up get a 160 amp alternator if i plan on using a lot of power from the second battery?
Sorry to say I can't really answer that one ... if it was me I'd just see how the existing alternator works (testing the batteries regularly at first). But if you have $$ to spend the better alternator might ease your mind. Good luck!
Can’t say without knowing what you plan to power, amp draw of what you plan to power, etc. use a high amp alternator would be my recommendation( I have 250 amp alternator in my 96 k3500)
So from the diagram that's given with the isolater it's basically a relay switch connected to ignition live why spend 60 dollars on and isolater and just a few dollars on a relay?
The cigarette 12v is wired differently in different vehicles: sometimes always on and sometimes switched. You could wire it to the secondary which would be cool
@@metaspencer I mean if after instaling the smart isolator and the vehicle being off but my 12v accessory's still drawing power is that comming from my new aux battery? or the main one still?
But even with this setup, the car has to be running to charge my phone or use a laptop while plugged in using a cigarette port adopter or an inverter right?
@@metaspencer the only thing im recharging is my cell phone and a couple power bank batteries 18650s. But im going to get one of the big portable power banks that have solar connections. But what you have i think im going to do that set up anyways for emergencies. Thanks for the info, you deserve a cookie 🍪 😂
Good video... I suppose, the trouble is I don't understand why you guys don't explain what exactly it doesn't what the advantages to it and why it is being used now more than you hear about it in the past. Because you see I don't really understand what you're saying because you're saying that you have them wired in series I know you said that on your other truck but even so why would you wire two 12 volt batteries in series to make 24 volts when you got a 12-volt system and you take the chance of burning everything out okay and then with this situation I run a sub sound system out of my back of my van cuz I run around and I do I play I'm a musician so I have it Extremely Loud you know and I mean I have some really loud PA gear okay but what I don't understand is why would you want to not running in parallel and have all the amperage you could why would you want to take the chance of saving your battery so you could get home that sounds like the people who make the inverters who pissed me off so much because they decide when it should have a cut-off like they've you're too stupid to realize that you should start the car up like every 15 minutes or so if you're powering stuff I'm just so fed up with like things that seems so logical to me and that they don't get explained and you know I just don't get it it's like I mean I can watch the whole video and you heard like what my questions are why why would you have two batteries and then you don't want to burn my I know why you don't want to wear them both down cuz you don't want to get stranded but obviously I would assume if you could set that up yourself to setup your smart enough to start your car up I just don't get it this guy he was trying to sell me on one of these and I was so not into it that he just gave it to me and told me to try it what am I going to do with this thing I need to have as much power as I can I'm not trying to save my battery
I hear ya man: it's really complicated stuff with many variables involved and terminology that doesn't all make sense right off the bat. in the most basic sense you need to think about your load (what you're plugging in) and your output (batteries and/or inverter). you'll get there for sure!
@@metaspencer bad choice of employees for those who also don’t know how to turn a wrench to pick up stuff to try to fix there own cars. I rarely shop at local auto parts stores, they just don’t really have anything I typically need.
That illustration was tremendous!! Thanks a million!!
good to hear. you're gonna love the setup
extremely excellent video, good script, and the diagram is something ALL how-to youtubers need to incorporate
Thanks for checking it out! I have two batteries in both of my work trucks now, and it seems to work well
Good informative video! Gave me loads of ideas and how to tips.
Thanks! You're gonna love having that extra power option
@@metaspencer I started on that project today
Awesome explanation thanks
Oh good! :)
Thanks for posting your video, after watching it, it appears to me that the isolator connects your two batteries in parallel (and not in series as mentioned in the video) by connecting their two positive terminals together (and of course the two batteries negative / ground terminals are connected to each other via truck's chassis). A potential issue with this setup happens when the engine is off (isolator is open) and battery # 2 is used by the loads on the inverter , causing the battery#2 to discharge. Now, when you turn the engine back on, the isolator closes and connects a discharged battery # 2 in parallel to the fully charged battery #1. This may not be an issue depending on battery #2 discharged level, and it will look like jump starting a car by connecting a running car to another car with a dead battery to jump start the other car.
Oh man, I'm glad you are mentioning this ... I'll have to recheck everything in the morning. I've been assuming they were in series for years without closely examining the setup. Doh! Much appreciated man
@@metaspencer You're awesome dude...and a little humility is beautiful thing!
Haha … big thanks
Sportin' the 90 Silverado! Nice! Got a 94' with 300k on it. Still kickin'!
300k! Oh that's awesome. Mine just ticked over 63k
(Series means doubling the voltage to 24v, parallel keeps the same 12v.)
I use a $10 blade-style disconnect set from O'Reilly. Pop the hood & flip the switches up whenever you might be running a bit too low on voltage, (like less than 12 v) and it will save your cranking battery (same idea, just cheaper)
Sounds like a good setup -- nice to have that backup. Yeah, i always mix up that series/parallel nomenclature. Thanks man
Yes the setup is in parallel, series would be running one battery positive to the other battery’s ground and would create a 24v setup like some diesels use
it does help, thanks
I’m not a RUclipsr so I can’t make a video, but I have similar setup with a high output alternator also.
I liked your video if I could recommend an isolator it would be the one from Painless performance because you can use it to jump start yourself as well, but is mostly the same as your setup.
I'll have to look up that isolator -- thanks for the tip. I'm adding a second battery to my van and that sounds like a good option. Thanks!
Love it! Nice diagram very informative Illustration-I often run my battery out and have to get a jump , I’m going to buy a leisure battery with an isolator to run my inverter that I just installed in my cargo van 2013 Chevy Express
Sounds excellent. I really like those vans ... and supposed to be dependable. Good luck with it!
That explanation was awesome thank you very much now I can go down and get parts to put my inverter in I will keep your video on top until I get mine in thank you very much you're awesome I give you thumbs up
Pierre do I need an ignition Source if so cool if not cooler?
You're gonna love the setup!
Nice video
I would like to know where did install the isolator trigger wire @....what ignition source..& does it have to be fused? Thank you
Mine is fused just in case. As a general rule I fuse any accessories just to avoid an overload. As for your question about the trigger wire: check the wiring diagram on the isolator. It's pretty simple with power coming in and out: it kind of works like a switch.
1 You should always fuse anything you install if it does not already have one.
2 Look to see if there are any ignition accessories that you do not have and find the fuse place in the fuse box. Such as if you do not have power windows. The wiring may not be there but the power bus should still be set up for it in the fuse box. You can take the time and get the right connector and put in the in the fuse box or you can use a fuse tap or add-a-fuse.
It works just like a relay. Actually those stinger relays are just that. They don't need much , I think it's .5 amp to close the circuit. I have this setup on my air ride bus. I haven't had any voltage issues with the house battery being low and main battery fully charged. It seems to level out the batteries. I used to have a smart relay that would open and close when it hit certain metrics, the problem I found was when the air pumps were running that smart relay was always closing and opening. Drove me crazy. I went back to the simple stinger relay. Haven't had an issue since
Thanks for the information! One question? Will the second battery recharge with the alternator, or will I have to manually recharge it when it's depleted?
If they're linked together properly they'll both charge
@@metaspencer awesome! I am going to go through with adding a second battery to my work truck. Thanks for your reply!
I’m trying to put in a dual battery system for my 2018 Ford F250 but the TSB instructions do not say to use an isolator but I am putting a Salter and a plow on my truck. Do you know why they say not to use an isolator there is no mention of it.
My very amateur sense is that the isolator is for when you want the second battery as a leisure battery or backup. If you're just putting the second battery in parallel to have more amp hours, you don't need or want an isolator.
Can you use the second battery to start the truck, in case the first battery is dead? Or are both used when starting the truck?
Great video, it really helped my understanding.
I’ve wondered that myself. I believe the isolated second battery does not help start it ... but don’t quote me on that. Sorry to not have an answer
If you use the right battery isolator then yes; some battery isolators like the one I have from Painless Performance use a switch to allow this when needed
Thanks man!
Absolutely
It’d be cool if you showed the ignition connection. Every video I’ve watched for the past 2 days clearly says that you need to connect the ignition wire. But they don’t show you where they connected theirs. Is it supposed to be some highly kept secret?
Oh man, you've been on a scavenger hunt and have come up empty! Sorry it didn't come through in this vid. This might help if you're running a truck like mine www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehiclewiring/3/yeard/Chevrolet.html
If you put another isolator in your vehicle is it possible to run a third battery with a better alternator?
A lot of people run big banks of batteries ... you just have to wire everything correctly
Could you explain how you relocated the vapor canister so the battery tray would fit on the drivers side? I’m about to install a second battery for my snowplow but the canister is in the way of where the tray bolts.
Hmmmmm, I don't recall having a problem with that. My Chevy is a 1990 2500 Silverado. I'm thinking that in your situation you'll need to get some hose for the canister and squeeze it in somewhere else. May be a tight fit
Nice video
thanks
Good thing for you to have in your business
I feel the same way
Hey Metaspencer, i read through the comments but didn't see what I'm looking for, Sorry if this has been asked before.
I have an 09 Sierra with a stock 145 amp alternator, If I'm charging a second battery that has been drained would it be a good idea up get a 160 amp alternator if i plan on using a lot of power from the second battery?
Sorry to say I can't really answer that one ... if it was me I'd just see how the existing alternator works (testing the batteries regularly at first). But if you have $$ to spend the better alternator might ease your mind. Good luck!
Can’t say without knowing what you plan to power, amp draw of what you plan to power, etc. use a high amp alternator would be my recommendation( I have 250 amp alternator in my 96 k3500)
I hear ya ..That big alternator is the way to go
Great video I had one question. What would an ignition source be?
Ignition gets its juice from a main battery right to the starter
@@metaspencer so connect the remote wire to the starter?
@@kevinlechner7722 Remote wire? Now you lost me.
Can you show us HOW you ran the wire from the 2nd battery to the things in the back that you are powering?
I don't have a video on that -- sorry. I just snaked the wire down and along the frame, bundling it with the rest of the wiring harness.
So from the diagram that's given with the isolater it's basically a relay switch connected to ignition live why spend 60 dollars on and isolater and just a few dollars on a relay?
Sounds like you know what you're doing. I've always used an isolator to keep the main battery from draining
so does the cigarete 12v work when the vehicle is off? lights everything? and only running off the secondary battery?
The cigarette 12v is wired differently in different vehicles: sometimes always on and sometimes switched. You could wire it to the secondary which would be cool
@@metaspencer if it's always on , it should be only drawing from the seccond battery with the isolator right ?
@@lancebro121 I'm not sure what you're thinking is "always on" ... if you have a steady draw then yes, you'll drain that battery fast
@@metaspencer I mean if after instaling the smart isolator and the vehicle being off but my 12v accessory's still drawing power is that comming from my new aux battery? or the main one still?
@@lancebro121 Yeah you just have to wire it so that (main battery => isolator => leisure battery => accessory)
Is there a voltage output reduction from the second battery with the isolator?
I don’t think so ... they’re both equivalent
But even with this setup, the car has to be running to charge my phone or use a laptop while plugged in using a cigarette port adopter or an inverter right?
With a second battery you can charge quite a lot without the car running … the battery will die eventually though
@@metaspencer yea but once the car driving, itll recharge the battery by the alternator right?
Yes recharging when driving
@@metaspencer the only thing im recharging is my cell phone and a couple power bank batteries 18650s. But im going to get one of the big portable power banks that have solar connections. But what you have i think im going to do that set up anyways for emergencies.
Thanks for the info, you deserve a cookie 🍪 😂
Do you use Deep marine 12v battery on #2?
That's not a bad idea, but I haven't gone that far
@@metaspencer So it works just fine on this traditional battery? I have an extra one and am thinking about doing the same thing.
@@jonathankuhn2180 yup. no problem
@@metaspencer sweet
What did you wire the ignition to?
Ignition runs off the main battery
Where did you get the driver bracket from
Driver bracket? Which point in the video?
@@metaspencer yes driver battery tray. I want to know where you bought the battery tray for the driver side
Oh gotcha! Local auto shop a lonnnnnnnng time ago. Maybe Amazon has one for your truck?
@@metaspencer unfortunately they don’t sell it anymore. I’ll have to cut the spot welds out of the passenger side and flip the bracket around
@@blackwellm23 Sounds like you're making things work ... good job man
Good video... I suppose, the trouble is I don't understand why you guys don't explain what exactly it doesn't what the advantages to it and why it is being used now more than you hear about it in the past. Because you see I don't really understand what you're saying because you're saying that you have them wired in series I know you said that on your other truck but even so why would you wire two 12 volt batteries in series to make 24 volts when you got a 12-volt system and you take the chance of burning everything out okay and then with this situation I run a sub sound system out of my back of my van cuz I run around and I do I play I'm a musician so I have it Extremely Loud you know and I mean I have some really loud PA gear okay but what I don't understand is why would you want to not running in parallel and have all the amperage you could why would you want to take the chance of saving your battery so you could get home that sounds like the people who make the inverters who pissed me off so much because they decide when it should have a cut-off like they've you're too stupid to realize that you should start the car up like every 15 minutes or so if you're powering stuff I'm just so fed up with like things that seems so logical to me and that they don't get explained and you know I just don't get it it's like I mean I can watch the whole video and you heard like what my questions are why why would you have two batteries and then you don't want to burn my I know why you don't want to wear them both down cuz you don't want to get stranded but obviously I would assume if you could set that up yourself to setup your smart enough to start your car up I just don't get it this guy he was trying to sell me on one of these and I was so not into it that he just gave it to me and told me to try it what am I going to do with this thing I need to have as much power as I can I'm not trying to save my battery
I hear ya man: it's really complicated stuff with many variables involved and terminology that doesn't all make sense right off the bat. in the most basic sense you need to think about your load (what you're plugging in) and your output (batteries and/or inverter). you'll get there for sure!
Think this was a Chris fix video for a second lmao
haha ... I wish! Chris Fix is the best
Can I hook up my second battery straight to my altinator?
@@hoggdatsouth Can you? Yes! Should you? I have no idea...LOL
What can you say about TrueAm dual battery isolator?
I haven't tested that one but I'm guessing they're all about the same ... not that complicated of a device
@@EscobanasJobette It only lasts 3 years??? Oh that's so terrible. Thanks for the warning
@@metaspencer My bad, i heard to truck owner who used this isolator and it has been 10 yrs and their True isolator still working.
Gotcha
Is that safe for ordinary car? I mean like city car?
if you have the room for the battery ... no difference
metaspencer oh I see.. anyway it’s great video
Hi, plenty room to install a dual alternator solar charging system, been done before on ford 250🤓
Oh man, that would be pretty sweet ... yeah, I definitely have the room
@@metaspencer here with kit braket on Chevy Silverado, ruclips.net/video/kQBAr3C1ru0/видео.html
oh cool. thanks!
that's a pretty nice setup
I am going to do a duel battery set up just git to figure out where
Find some space and you'll love it! Can even put the second battery in back
Information for people
😯👍👍👍👌
!!!
my auto-zone employees don’t know dick about cars lol.... you tell them you need a relay plug, and they show you a tap a fuse 🤦♂️
oh boy! crazy
@@metaspencer bad choice of employees for those who also don’t know how to turn a wrench to pick up stuff to try to fix there own cars. I rarely shop at local auto parts stores, they just don’t really have anything I typically need.
DUDE! Back up, duel, leisure batteries are never hooked up in series. That is a disaster in the making.
I misspoke in the video. they're parallel my dude
Great system. European cars dont really have room for twins. Too cramped under the hood
Yeah, hard to find that room ... newer cars are also cramped
So the isolator is a big diode
anode and cathode
metaspencer exactly a diode
4:36 lol that doesnt look like a drill
haha! I see your point
Fricken hilarious!!!
In the last part of the vid. What part is the ignition switch under the hood of a truck
Ignition power comes from main battery to starter