🔥 Hardfacing with Hardalloy Stick Electrode
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2017
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We've showed you how to hardface using the MIG welding process and Oxy/Acetylene. Today we are going to show you how to hardface with a stick electrode.
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Miss ol' Bob and his expert presentation of all things welding.
Bob you have some of the best stick welding videos on youtube. Especially for odd stuff.
Impressive little welding machine, ESAB out did themselves on it.
I recently used Messier mg745 alloy to hardface a rock rake. It was 3/16 diameter as well and worked well at 150 amps. When I use it to weld on manganese alloy excavator buckets,it takes much more current. Great product.
Very nice, and as always this was informative. Thank you.
I was taught that most of the heat is generated on the positive side of the arc. With stick welding, generating heat on the electrode creates pressure from vaporizing flux, which drives metal down and creates penetration, and heat on the work piece doesn't create pressure so you get less penetration. With TIG, heat on the electrode damages the tungsten without creating pressure or penetration, and heat on the work piece contributes some to penetration. So DECP for stick on thick metal, DCEN for stick on thin metal (to avoid blowing away the metal), DCEN for TIG on steel, and AC with more EN than EP for TIG on aluminum (the EP part of the wave etches off the oxide, but you use as little as possible so as to minimize damage to the tungsten).
From my experience I never had a problem with using old rods as long as the rods were inside the metal container. Also, have used old rods that were stored dry and had no problem. But your experience and mine can most certainly be different as night follows day. Good demonstration on the power of the small machine.
Thank you for the teaching lesson using SMAW process with DC juice. Nicely done too. VF
Again, Bob you are putting up the quirky, but highly useful stuff that nobody else bothers with. And a special slap on the back for knowing what a plow share is, and where it is used.
Thanks bob yet another great video... can't wait for the renegade machine to be launched in the uk !!
Wow that Esab is something else, man I wish I could afford that kind of equipment. Stainless job coming up and I'll be finding a used POS to work it.
Hard facing is a different beast, the goal is actually minimum penetration so the added material isn't diluted by the base metal. Also there are dozens of grades from each manufacturer depending on the type of wear environment and many grades are expected to show surface cracking.
Most arc based harfacing will only achieve advertised properties with 2-3 layers due to base metal dilution. Oxy-fuel tends to have much shallower penetration and so is able (with care) to get acceptable results with one layer.
Some basic wear categories are 2 body abrasion, 3 body abrasion, metal sliding on metal, each in high or low impact, and if holding a blade edge is a factor. Many facing metals are work hardening so they start soft and only get hard after impacts which deform the surface(at a micro level) so those won't hold a proper edge.
How can we avoid cracking on stick. ??
Awesome machine!!!
I remember reading something about preheating to 200F min with any Hardalloy Welding Rod.
Is there anyway you could show a video based on welding blueprints? Like something basic?
Hardalloy 119 from Hobart Bros./McKay is an Austenitic Manganese steel (14%+Mn content) electrode that will work-harden over time with abrasion and impact. It will not crack if applied correctly. It WILL crack or spawl off (overtime) when applied on top of a high carbon/chromium cast iron type of hard-facing, such as what Bob welded over top of on the edge of the blade in the video.
Good intel. Thank you.
So rick, would first laying down a more adhesive alloy layor prior to the 119 alleviate or minimize this? Im thinkin of srfacing strike-face of an anvil made of rail-switch steel. Um...for a friend. I can totally afford huge gorgeous full-forged pro-level anvils.
Shame I can't enter the competition. Any chance you can get international entries included on the next one please?
Subscribed!!!
I run alot of MG-765 3/16" hardfacing rods and run 140-160 amps and I use a long arc technique, works pretty good for me.
SteelFabMechanic the hardfacing rods i have allways used are 6 mm wich is just under 1/4" with a verry thin flux coating on them . And only use 95 to 120 amps or so.
SteelFabMechanic that’s a great running rod
I really like how y'all did the split screen in videos looks great!
Very good presentation! I have what many call a bad habit of mine, but, I'm one of those "works of art" that are more at home using A.C. when welding. I don't know why but I don't get as much penetration and overall a complete melt/bond through with D.C. (either negative or positive work leads). I would like to try the rods you've used in this show using A.C. instead of D.C.! None the less; this a very interesting video.
Most won’t run AC
The metal ions are positive when the electrons are flowing and the metal goes the opposite way so dcep penetrates better for stick welding.
Have you ever tried tig hardfacing after removing flux from the stick rod? if you had a very small prt that needed only a small part to be built up with hardfacing.
Thanks for your!
That's pretty cool u can see the camera trying to pick up the uv from the arc I think that's what it is
If u short circuit the rod by sticking it to the grounded workpiece you can cook out the moisture b4 you weld w it. Works for good 309SS, 316SS, and any other heavy fluxed rod that might be contaminated.
WHAT THE HELL MAN! No out takes at the end of the video? I'll let it slide this time but we got to tighten up and get some out takes. Freakin Funny stuff. none the less still awesome videos!
I've had stoody 35 give me the cracks like you have in that blade it's also a metal to earth hardface
Many specialty rods have a low carbon 60xx type core rod, with all the alloying elements contained in the coating. That would explain the thick coatings on some of these rods. When they melt the alloying elements and/or hard particles enter the weld pool to give the proper weld metal composition. It's easier and MUCH cheaper to manufacture a wide variety of specialty rods that way vs having to make small VIM/VAR batches of the actual metal and cast them in to rods, or continuous cast into wire. Much SAW is the same way, with the filler being low carbon steel and all the alloying constituents in the "flux".
Im needing to weld 4130 and 30hsg steel that will be hardened, what process and welding rod/wire do i need? Will hard facing work for repairing cracks in 4130?
If it works on plow shares how about rotary cutter blades?
Have you welded using a stellite hard-facing alloy?
I was doing some of that and couldn't get it to brun right on the steel. Don't remember what the amp's was site on the welder.
When you are po folks, you do like I used to, I would weld a wore out plow point to another wore out one to get more plowing done.
Enjoy your videos
The only rod that I have welded with that does the cupping effect on DC+ is 7024
Could you male a video using the durmat tungsten Stick ?
It will be guide us
the hard welding electrode in use
Love the videos.. However, never can afford some of those machines.. Would like to see the results of any of these welds with a much cheaper setup since I would think if someone is watching these vids, probably don't know much on welding or still heavily learning even though I know quite a bit more than my counter parts. (Note I didn't say ALL, but probably more) Anyway, myself when I started, learned on a $250.00 machine before I realized it was something I wanted to partake in much more which then I did get a little bit more costly machine.. Now I'm looking into the greater aspects of welding...
Can you put on full diving gear and show us how to weld underwater please? You never know when some of us might need that skill ;-)
Hmmm, Not many facilities to do that here in .... Kansas! I would've liked to pursue that back when I was young. There are a lot of good schools scattered around the coastal regions for diving/welding/NDT/ EMT related underwater work.
Underater welding... be careful DELTA P is extremely dangerous
How do you run a flux core root pass? 3g
I have some Hardalloy 180 1/8 inch rod using AC AT 150 amps. I'm hardfacing a 1/8 in thick CASE trencher tooth still on the chain, so, vertically. I cant get a smooth flow for build up. Its bumps and globs. What am I doing wrong? Less amps? Should I take each tooth off and weld horizontally?........
Some teeth are really worn back about a inch, so it it possible to build out multi layers of Hardface to replace that inch of wear?
One youtube guy said to butter a layer of 6013 down first before laying on Hardalloy. Its because the teeth are alredy hardened and have Manganese alloy in them So, 6013 allows better adheasion. Does that sound right?
Ok More practice on scrap steel. Trial and error I'll get better. :)
Helpful for the DCEP v DCEN
Electricity was developed before we knew what electrons were, so when you see + or - on an electrical circuit, it actually refers to flow. So electrons do flow through the positive to negative end. The thing about electrons being negatively charged confuses everyone (my self included) because physicists define them, not electricians.
Basically, electricity is positive flows to negative, and who gives a damn about physicists!
Go work in a quarry. I was a powder man forced into being a buildup welder. Had to lay down manganese under cobalt under 1095, while it was 5 ° ambient fahrenheit freezing my ass off. At 5/8 total I had .197 @ zero balance !!!!!
Bob, how do you determine the amperage to run various rods? Say 7018: 1/8" manufacturers recommend a range 70 - 140 lets say. How do you determine what part of that range to use? Does that figure into the 1 amp / 1000th rule of thumb?
Goes by thickness of the workpiece, I can't deal with inches but I do add about 5 amps per mm of thickness from a base of 60-75a on a 3mm workpiece (I think, been a while). Also depends on the type of weld. Slow welds, like a vertical up, don't need as much.
Paul Campbell 7018 does NOT go by the thickness of the workpiece .... rule of thumb
0.001 rod dia = 1 amp ..,. An 1/8" rods = 0.125" = 125 amp
A 3/32 rod 93
A 5/32 156
3/16 187 and so on ....
Also when you look at the package For example lincoln excalibur 7018 1/8" 90-160 amp
Find the middle
90+160= 250/2= 125
Use the middle of the advertised range maybe + 10%
That gets you really close !!!!
It it still sticks when you weld than go up in amperage and if you have a bunch of BBs ans spatter go down in amperage
120 is a good starting point 1/8 7018 say for 3/16 plate. it depends on the thickness and volume of the work piece. It's always more ideal to go with smaller rods and multipasses when starting out welding.
ZILA
Would pre heat help with the spider cracking and fracturing?
Probably not, the cracking most likely forms because the two metals cool at a different rate. The cracking is pretty normal for hard surfacing rods, it really doesn't matter since it's not being used for actual joining of metals. Post heat might help more than pre heat but I think it would be a waste of time. I may be wrong.
Most hard surface rods crack when cooling.....it's the nature of the beast. Like Brandy mentioned, the hard surface is usually going to get worn down again, and is not structural.
Bob Moffat is the best Bob
What brand passive filter is on the camera?
Plymovent
Phillips Alloweld
Weld.com They are really perfect for the camera. Then the weld lens maker Aulektro stated to me that blue is tiring for the eyes as the contrast is raised, blue is not allowed in Germany (or Europe) but the lens I have (gold plated Aulektro) are greenish blue and I like them (plus they are less than 12$)
Are blue lens really used (all day long) by some welders? Thanks
I'm noticing that most of the tabs on that Certi-Flat fab block table aren't welded in. Any reason why?
Once you tack weld that table together it becomes really solid.
Indeed!
How much do these rod cost ya?
that start method does not allow to have a good gaseous protection, hence porosity with some rods. the solution is really to create a 20 mm smoke trail that is burned then when welding , as for a restart.Very clean starts with that trick.
(Sorry Bob but this can be said, I don't know how you pro welders avoid porosities on a few mm starting the rod but I cannot. The tip to work from the other direction then turn back once the rod is fully functional, works fine.)
make sure your rods are dry or have been in a rod oven a while. Don't weld cold. weld hot and keep a tight arc. Use a hot start and arc force setting if available. the hot start increases your amperage when you strike to make it easier. an arc force setting increases amperage in a low voltage situation like having a tight arc so you don't stick it. Strike an arc, and don't long arc too long. You want that gaseous cloud to be able protect the weld zone. Too long an arc makes that impossible leading to porosity. Actually try to keep it as close as possible when striking. Strike out ahead of your intended starting point And let your rod get hot as you strike your arc and direct the end of the electrode to the starting point. Weld over top of your arc strike mark which should have been made in the intended path of the weld. I hope this helps.
MB Porter Thank you, yes it resumes well all things that help.. I think what I had in mind is the starts with 7018. There is a graphite tip that does not allow to weld if I understand correctly (that is also what they say on the Lincoln site, to start then get rid of the few first mm of weld by sagging, which I hardly can do without having to restart. ;)
I will dry and warm them for any important weld, I will remember. Noticed how hot rods work easier. But hot start if above 30/40 do tend to stick I really cannot see why. Regards
Can someone tell me a use for hardfacing and an instance where its used ?
Like bulldozer and excavator blades and buckets. You hard face them with many, many welds and it acts as a "wear face" so that the welds wear down instead of the machine parts.
Another lesser-known use is for valves. Hard facing the sealing surfaces of a valve will give you corrosion resistance, erosion resistance, and a much longer product lifespan for just a little more production cost.
It almost seems like the machine is in a pulse mode, it seemed like it was cutting in and out.
The rod was almost thicker then the material. Y so big? Y not 1/8 or 3/32?
OMG
The fume extractor name.....
"The Fume"!!! lololol
haha...ha... nobody...anybody?
ATHF MAN
THE DRIZZLE
how's Mr. Bob doing?
RIP mig days of summer
Still have two left.
So why does it sound like it is pulsing?
this is slightly ot but it`s been a long time (never) since i`ve run a hardfacing rod, my question is if you peel off the coating of the rod if it can be used as a tig rod
p penca most likely no- Pretty much all other stick rods can be used as tig rods once you remove the flux - but hard facing is different - hard facing has alloy and metal powder and "fairy dust" in the flux and the coating is often super this and parts of the flux coating actually become part of the hard surface deposit .... that is why stick electrodes can carry WAY more alloy than hard facing wire .... really good wires (because of the design it being a tubular wire) can only carry about 13% alloy
Good stick rods on the other hand can be carrying over 30% alloy
danke peter it makes perfect sense now that you say it about the flexibility needed to make the wire. i didn`t knew that part of the coating was used to melt with the rod, a new day a new lesson. asked bc a client wanted me to put a layer of stellite on some lathe tools for turning stainless, i turned down the job bc couldn`t find any tig rods (found stick rods but did not feel confident doing it...) also on the video kept hearing a cut on the sound of the arc, are they supposed to sound like this, it`s bad ground or a video glitch?.
p penca i have no clue what happened there with the sound .... when bob said those rods are really old ( if i remember right 20 years ?!?!!!)
All i can think of - wow all sorts of funky stuff can happen here .... i mean in my book it is almost a given that those rods do not run like the manufacture intended them to run when they were new ....
How ever for demonstration purposes or just to put a hard layer on something ...... they are probably "just fine"
Lol I hear that this Rod has been sitting in the cabinet for about 20 years
You can just hear by the sound thats one hell of a nasty electrode.
Why don't you explain to the kids at home why reverse polarity works better for stick welding.
Because it forces the electricity to focus in on the rod,where as straight polarity gives it a wider place to go ( i.e. the whole of the base metal )
I run these 3/16 and 1/4 inch rods off a small 180 amp inverter welder all the time. The puddle is hard to see, as the flux covers it so fast and builds up as well. The only important thing to know is it goes down, looks not important, as it will just get worn off again as the buckets we build up get used and abused. Best welded outside, without preheat. The worst part about hard surfacing, is the the smoke it produces. Leaves a person alot of time to think about anything other than what you are doing, as it can be tedious, boring, and very repetitive.
...but remember..porosity...if it should occur does not affect the strength of the weld.....due to the void's spherical shape stress is delivered equally around the void......not until porosity exceeds 70% the mass of the weld should failure occur....
is this bloke trying to sell me a welding machine? im here for Hardfacing with Hardalloy Stick Electrode
Wow electrode positive seems angry!
Big Ole FAT rod
Those cracks happen along,, not the best welder as self taught and welded a lot of hard surface, clean the surface and hard face it, I like stoddy as it seemed to last longer, my Dad liked the Lincoln, it was a small black rod, jet weld I think,not much flux, I bought some gas rod once, it lasted longer than the stick rods, I didn’t like the heat it took, good on points, warped plow lays pretty bad, too much heat
Does he know what he's doing?....Any One can talk books!....
Bro's....I personally HATE ESAB AND HOBART!😡.... LINCOLN OR BIG BLUE 💪🏿
Needs update and more info.
Little itty bitty machine I'm going to run it at 200 amps what's the duty cycle LMFAO that single go up to 300 amps what's the duty cycle LMFAO I'm sure it's an excellent machine I'm just saying why do you fail to mention these things
That rod is WAY too big for that thin steel. I use that exact "big fatty" rod fairly regularly on the business end of industrial sewer cleaner nozzles and snow plows.. Try using it on something at least 1” thicker, and definitely use 3 phase if you can.
Inductance
Well it's very obvious you are running these weld beads with a rod that has been in the cabinet for 20 years on top of a previously applied weld bead that in itself makes a big big difference and thanks for the video what you're not really giving any useful information and you say you're using that machine at200 amps and I'm not trying to be rude or sarcastic this is just well it's a trick question at 200 amps what is your approximate Arc voltage now don't go looking at your computer screen don't look it up on Google you're a welding teacher at a college when that machine is set at 200 amps on the computer screen what is your approximate voltage at the arc and is that equal to your open circuit voltage and what is the maximum open circuit voltage of that machine LMFAO