Came for the 9900K information, stayed for the roast. Love it! I have a 9900K that I delided. I replaced to the solder with Conductonaut Liquid Metal, put the IHS back on, and used Kyronaut between the IHS and my AIO. It hardly ever gets above 70 degrees Celsius running at 5.1 GHz all cores (can't remember the voltage, maybe 1.25V?). It's stable at 5.2 GHz at the same voltage, but I'm happy with 5.1 GHz. I also haven't replaced the liquid metal in probably 5 years or thermal paste in probably 2 or 3 years. I don't think there's a set time for degradation. Just monitor your temps. When they go up, replace the paste/liquid metal.
It looks like the liquid metal has essentially produced something like an electro-plated surface with, I'm assuming the gallium/copper combination. After you polished it, this plated spot could still be seen. What I wonder is: after another year or so with new liquid metal, would this spot react different than it did the first time? Because it's now essentially protected by the previous change to the copper surface?
I need to check the source but I kind of remember that with repeated applications the reaction with cooper is smaller like you say a new surface with a sort of platting is formed, maybe it was der8auer or Gamers Nexus.
Huge fan, the only reason I delidded my 9900k was because of your detailed videos. Now I'm running sub 70 degrees celsius and running at about 5.2 GHz! Keep uploading about this!
@@PokerFaZe I am very surprised you were only able to get a 7-degree drop in temperatures. Granted, I was expecting to get as much as you, but I was also surprised to see nearly a 30-degree drop in my temperatures, as I was always thermal throttling at 5GHz. Can I ask what voltages you're running in your overclock?
thanks for your video! i just got my first water cooler and i was worry to use liquid metal on it(is copper) but after seen the result on the copper after one year i feel confident to use it now! question? so more is better? if i use to little liquid metal i get the risk of dry out? any subjection or video on how much to use? thanks in advance
It is liquid metal, not water so it can't dry. Like I said, it is chem reaction, so once the reaction is done, you need extra LM to continue transferring the heat. It's hard to tell how much but for me I put 2 "balls." One on the CPU, one on the cooler. You can try then check again in 3 months, and after that you have some ideas of how much is needed.
I used it to my Alienware Laptop it goes to thermal throttle at full load over 100degrees now it reach 76degree after one hour i didnt regret doing it one time.
My X17 R2 came with Liquid Metal from the factory, my 3080ti at load only gets to 75c max, and the CPU gets around 85c Max load also. But Alienware only does this for their highest end models
my copper ihs and copper aio plate has 1 dark line after delide and thermal metal, only used mx6 paste between ihs and aio. can I sand my aio plate and should I replace the ihs to a new copper?
Hi, very informative video. If possible, if you could perhaps do a follow up to see if the pure copper cold plate got damaged in the process (not staining, actual galvanization) please? I'm very cerious, contacted Artic Freezer to know if their Artic Freezer 2 was compatible with liquid metal and they says it's not compatible at all. Perhaps the Corsair alloy is different?
M8, I think you could improve performance if you microwave the die, then while it is still hot you take it out and gently place it on cotton and then smack it with a hammer. Also, you can remove the liquid metal really fast with a angle grinder
8700k die is lower than 9900k, so it won't make good contact with the cooler or have enough pressure to push the CPU down to the socket. So you should stick with the IHS.
when replacing liquid metal u absolutely should not touch it if ur using a liquid metal with a fair bit of indium in it just add a little bit more to whats there already and u will end up with an application that will last years instead of just 6 months
Lmao your rant is fucking gold! So many topics discussed. But on the technical side, looks like there’s some diffusion of the Liquid Metal into copper. Also, thermal cycle can cause a pump out effect with the copper swelling and shrinking. The point being if you put too little Liquid Metal it can reduce performance over time.
Hahahaha, loved the video. I do admit I was laughing PF was addressing that commenter. He sounded like he was getting more pissed as the video went on.
I really want to know is what happens after like the 2nd or 3rd time applying liquid metal, like does it keep making copper worse or after it created the new alloy it will prevent the copper from getting worse and make liquid metal to preserve for longer like when applying to nickel plated copper?????????
I think it should be fine, the alloy should stop it from continuing reacting. I think this video from NileRed explains it well ruclips.net/video/IrdYueB9pY4/видео.html
@@PokerFaZe I already saw other videos of aluminum + liquid mercury reaction, but never seen about liquid metal unless the same exact videos of what happens after months, a year... liquid metal is also not 100% galium, the mix is known but the % of of all components from each brand selling it as thermal compound, I think never specify the exact mix between them... I wanted to try Liquid metal for quite some time, but end up always using Arctic series of MX since like 2008, recently I used MX-5 on the CPU and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on the GPU. But I have seen some people who applied it well on laptops and some even in just a few months the laptop overheated and shutdown and when they opened it, there was just dust and the copper was even in quite bad shape compared to your... PS: Can't ever find is what really happens after a few times of using liquid metal on copper and If I knew it would then stay liquid almost 4 ever not reacting anymore after the copper gets fully silver from the new alloy formed then I would use it... A lot of people report dead GPU's because they overheated with liquid metal and I would like to use it on my GPU too, however I don't usually track temps, I clean it, put new thermal paste after a few years and forget about them, only rarely check clocks, temps...
This is what I was thinking too. After the plating has occurred, how could the liquid metal keep causing more plating? For example, if we did this to aluminum the reaction doesn't start happening until the gallium can penetrate the oxide layer that's caused by aluminum being exposed to oxygen.
@@PokerFaZe Yes, I was hoping that this is the true answer. Do you plan to make another video like this in a few months from now, so that we can see the affected surface once again? Perhaps your prediction is correct. I would like to use Liquid Metal in my Laptop, but it has bare copper heat-sinks. I'm not really wanting to have to replace the stuff several times again and again. But I would do it if the first application lasts 1 year and then the second application lasts a lot longer due to the plating.
I think we talked about liquid metal on my copper gpu block before, the way i removed that plating was to use a dremel and rouge polish (you could use the flitz) lmao that biden comment
Same reason why I don't lap the CPU die, I don't dare to. For me, this works fine, I don't need to go crazy on it. Plus, that's what LM is used for, to fill the gap
hahaha you burning those haters is sooo funny bro!!! i am using LM on laptop it drop temps to at least 15C ... thanks for the info btw! how is your pc usage btw is it as a personal use machine or for servers btw?
As far as 9900k is concerned, direct die is probably the best way to cool it, i did it like that myself and had great results. But the 10th and the 11th gen chips run way cooler than the 9900k because of lower die height on the 10th gen cpus and larger surface area on the 11th gen cpus. So if you already own a 9900k then it might make some sense to cool it direct die, but in case you are buying used or may be new, then you should look at 10th gen cpus or better buy a ryzen 5800x or 5900x
Interesting Video. But I must say, those temps are not great. I'm running a custom loop with Ryzen 9 5900x and a 2080 ti. Both put out quite a lot of heat energy. The 5900x (with stock heat spreader) hardly ever reaches 70° C while running multicore cinebench. It is using about 180 watt at full load. Not sure how much energy your 9900k uses in comparison. My GPU (with direct die cooling but no liquid metal) outputs even more heat. It uses about 270 Watts, while running below 50° C. I'm using Ryzen Master (for CPU) and Afterburner (for GPU) to read those values.
@@roopey they are completely different architectures. Completely different platforms. They handle great different. You can't take your ryzen temps and say that his temps are bad on a 9900k. Doesn't work like that
You spoke of evidence as if there isn’t any evidence of liquid metal ever drying out on copper, but there is: ruclips.net/video/ejPQmtADOaE/видео.html. I also wonder how frequently was your computer used during the course of the year in comparison to Timmy Joe’s laptop which did dry out in the same span of time.
I don't get the evidence part, anyway, I’m using everyday, it is my main gaming + editing machine. I think he applied too little which didn’t leave any extra LM after the reaction. It doesn't "dry" because they are all chemical reaction. I'm sorry but I don't think he knew what he was doing or talking about. Asus has many laptops that use liquid metal instead of traditional paste. You should watch NileRed's video about the reaction between Mercury and Aluminum as it is similar to this.
I am baffled...I have a normal 10700kf and only reach 80C not even delidded. Besides I have cracked dies on 1333mhz amd processors in the past. No thanks. I also have a 2-120 mm fan liquid cooler and run at 4.9 ghz on all cores. Also you should have sanded your cpu cooler. I always did.
Well I am fine with the case for now, but I am concerned that we won't see a 3060 ti under 185mm. I am hoping that MSI or Gigabyte will make a 180mm card otherwise ill have to import one. If I can't get a 180mm 3060, 3060ti, or 3070 then I will have to upgrade the case to a Sentury, a DanA4, an Nr200, or a TU150 so I can have a 3070.
If you are careful you can lapp the cpu die with some some very fine sand paper nothing corse or rough and water don't push hard I seen debaurer do it he had great success with lowering temps check his video out
This is absolute gold. I've been thinking about direct die or delid for quite a while. Now i know which one has the best result
Did you end up doing it? Make a difference?
Came for the 9900K information, stayed for the roast. Love it!
I have a 9900K that I delided. I replaced to the solder with Conductonaut Liquid Metal, put the IHS back on, and used Kyronaut between the IHS and my AIO. It hardly ever gets above 70 degrees Celsius running at 5.1 GHz all cores (can't remember the voltage, maybe 1.25V?). It's stable at 5.2 GHz at the same voltage, but I'm happy with 5.1 GHz. I also haven't replaced the liquid metal in probably 5 years or thermal paste in probably 2 or 3 years. I don't think there's a set time for degradation. Just monitor your temps. When they go up, replace the paste/liquid metal.
Nice video quality. Humble channel but high quality. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much
Congratulations from Brazil! Great video
It looks like the liquid metal has essentially produced something like an electro-plated surface with, I'm assuming the gallium/copper combination. After you polished it, this plated spot could still be seen. What I wonder is: after another year or so with new liquid metal, would this spot react different than it did the first time? Because it's now essentially protected by the previous change to the copper surface?
I need to check the source but I kind of remember that with repeated applications the reaction with cooper is smaller like you say a new surface with a sort of platting is formed, maybe it was der8auer or Gamers Nexus.
Huge fan, the only reason I delidded my 9900k was because of your detailed videos. Now I'm running sub 70 degrees celsius and running at about 5.2 GHz! Keep uploading about this!
Wee, I'm glad those old videos helped you :D
@@PokerFaZe I'm curious. Are you also a fan of Optimum tech? your channel gives me heavy optimum tech vibes.
@@2355marc Yes, I am :))
@@PokerFaZe I am very surprised you were only able to get a 7-degree drop in temperatures. Granted, I was expecting to get as much as you, but I was also surprised to see nearly a 30-degree drop in my temperatures, as I was always thermal throttling at 5GHz. Can I ask what voltages you're running in your overclock?
I am currently using 1.36V to get 5GHz. I guess it can be my cooler, maybe one day I'll find the need of upgrading it to a better one :D
thanks for your video! i just got my first water cooler and i was worry to use liquid metal on it(is copper) but after seen the result on the copper after one year i feel confident to use it now! question? so more is better? if i use to little liquid metal i get the risk of dry out? any subjection or video on how much to use? thanks in advance
It is liquid metal, not water so it can't dry. Like I said, it is chem reaction, so once the reaction is done, you need extra LM to continue transferring the heat. It's hard to tell how much but for me I put 2 "balls." One on the CPU, one on the cooler. You can try then check again in 3 months, and after that you have some ideas of how much is needed.
@@PokerFaZe thanks for your time! I will do that!!
I used it to my Alienware Laptop it goes to thermal throttle at full load over 100degrees now it reach 76degree after one hour i didnt regret doing it one time.
I regretted doing it many times, wasted a lot of liquid metal for one video 🥲
My X17 R2 came with Liquid Metal from the factory, my 3080ti at load only gets to 75c max, and the CPU gets around 85c Max load also. But Alienware only does this for their highest end models
my copper ihs and copper aio plate has 1 dark line after delide and thermal metal, only used mx6 paste between ihs and aio. can I sand my aio plate and should I replace the ihs to a new copper?
Hi, very informative video.
If possible, if you could perhaps do a follow up to see if the pure copper cold plate got damaged in the process (not staining, actual galvanization) please? I'm very cerious, contacted Artic Freezer to know if their Artic Freezer 2 was compatible with liquid metal and they says it's not compatible at all. Perhaps the Corsair alloy is different?
I continued using it till I upgraded to the 12900k video. No problem. Liquid metal is now used in laptops, it won't damage anything.
@@PokerFaZe Thank you very much for your feedback, have a nice day!
nice video man!
Is there any way to do this direct die with a simple plate with AIO coolers on 13th gen?
M8, I think you could improve performance if you microwave the die, then while it is still hot you take it out and gently place it on cotton and then smack it with a hammer. Also, you can remove the liquid metal really fast with a angle grinder
I laughed too hard at this.
🤣🤣😂
How did you mount the aio? What hardware?
now this is a quality video
Great rant! Haha nice jokes, quality testing and appreciated recommendations.
Thanks bro!
I really liked that RTX on effect 🤣
Weird, i dont have any IHS or even liquid metal as paste and i never see above 70c with the same processor.. ? why ?
Same chip doesn't mean same OC config, silicon lottery, CPU coolers are not similar in quality, pumps, etc
screw with confidence lmao! nice video man keep it up
Thank you :D
The Verge guy is legend 😅
Caught that one as well. 🤣
Need to go rewatch the Verge Reaction Compilation video.
stupid question , its possible to delid a i78700k and use ''open'' like yours? does It need some extra stuff to work or no?
8700k die is lower than 9900k, so it won't make good contact with the cooler or have enough pressure to push the CPU down to the socket. So you should stick with the IHS.
@@PokerFaZe thanks
when replacing liquid metal u absolutely should not touch it if ur using a liquid metal with a fair bit of indium in it just add a little bit more to whats there already and u will end up with an application that will last years instead of just 6 months
If you get the mounting pressure wrong you can crack the die.
How long are the m3 screws you used? They look about 30mm?
I don't remember, sorry.
Lmao your rant is fucking gold! So many topics discussed. But on the technical side, looks like there’s some diffusion of the Liquid Metal into copper. Also, thermal cycle can cause a pump out effect with the copper swelling and shrinking. The point being if you put too little Liquid Metal it can reduce performance over time.
Hahahaha, loved the video. I do admit I was laughing PF was addressing that commenter. He sounded like he was getting more pissed as the video went on.
😅
Epic video 😎
I really want to know is what happens after like the 2nd or 3rd time applying liquid metal, like does it keep making copper worse or after it created the new alloy it will prevent the copper from getting worse and make liquid metal to preserve for longer like when applying to nickel plated copper?????????
I think it should be fine, the alloy should stop it from continuing reacting. I think this video from NileRed explains it well
ruclips.net/video/IrdYueB9pY4/видео.html
@@PokerFaZe I already saw other videos of aluminum + liquid mercury reaction, but never seen about liquid metal unless the same exact videos of what happens after months, a year...
liquid metal is also not 100% galium, the mix is known but the % of of all components from each brand selling it as thermal compound, I think never specify the exact mix between them...
I wanted to try Liquid metal for quite some time, but end up always using Arctic series of MX since like 2008, recently I used MX-5 on the CPU and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on the GPU.
But I have seen some people who applied it well on laptops and some even in just a few months the laptop overheated and shutdown and when they opened it, there was just dust and the copper was even in quite bad shape compared to your...
PS: Can't ever find is what really happens after a few times of using liquid metal on copper and If I knew it would then stay liquid almost 4 ever not reacting anymore after the copper gets fully silver from the new alloy formed then I would use it... A lot of people report dead GPU's because they overheated with liquid metal and I would like to use it on my GPU too, however I don't usually track temps, I clean it, put new thermal paste after a few years and forget about them, only rarely check clocks, temps...
This is what I was thinking too. After the plating has occurred, how could the liquid metal keep causing more plating? For example, if we did this to aluminum the reaction doesn't start happening until the gallium can penetrate the oxide layer that's caused by aluminum being exposed to oxygen.
@@PokerFaZe Yes, I was hoping that this is the true answer. Do you plan to make another video like this in a few months from now, so that we can see the affected surface once again? Perhaps your prediction is correct. I would like to use Liquid Metal in my Laptop, but it has bare copper heat-sinks. I'm not really wanting to have to replace the stuff several times again and again. But I would do it if the first application lasts 1 year and then the second application lasts a lot longer due to the plating.
I think we talked about liquid metal on my copper gpu block before, the way i removed that plating was to use a dremel and rouge polish (you could use the flitz)
lmao that biden comment
use acetone for cleaning liquid metal
Why not lap the water block?
Same reason why I don't lap the CPU die, I don't dare to. For me, this works fine, I don't need to go crazy on it.
Plus, that's what LM is used for, to fill the gap
I use a delid service from computer shop...
Using derbaur kit + thrmal paste 😂
hahaha you burning those haters is sooo funny bro!!! i am using LM on laptop it drop temps to at least 15C ... thanks for the info btw! how is your pc usage btw is it as a personal use machine or for servers btw?
It is my personal gaming and editing PC :)
@@PokerFaZe nice bro, awesome machine ;)
it's a great video, just ignore the trolls
Thank you
As far as 9900k is concerned, direct die is probably the best way to cool it, i did it like that myself and had great results. But the 10th and the 11th gen chips run way cooler than the 9900k because of lower die height on the 10th gen cpus and larger surface area on the 11th gen cpus. So if you already own a 9900k then it might make some sense to cool it direct die, but in case you are buying used or may be new, then you should look at 10th gen cpus or better buy a ryzen 5800x or 5900x
Great vid showing LM still wet after one year.
Interesting Video.
But I must say, those temps are not great.
I'm running a custom loop with Ryzen 9 5900x and a 2080 ti. Both put out quite a lot of heat energy.
The 5900x (with stock heat spreader) hardly ever reaches 70° C while running multicore cinebench. It is using about 180 watt at full load. Not sure how much energy your 9900k uses in comparison.
My GPU (with direct die cooling but no liquid metal) outputs even more heat. It uses about 270 Watts, while running below 50° C.
I'm using Ryzen Master (for CPU) and Afterburner (for GPU) to read those values.
You are comparing a ryzen cpu to a 9900k. It is apples to oranges.
@@mikerzisu9508 Yeah yeah, my bad. I've forgotten: physics behave different when it comes to Intel CPU... Yeah right
@@roopey they are completely different architectures. Completely different platforms. They handle great different. You can't take your ryzen temps and say that his temps are bad on a 9900k. Doesn't work like that
my i9-9900k direct die cooling i can reach 5.4ghz 1.4v i guess im lucky
You spoke of evidence as if there isn’t any evidence of liquid metal ever drying out on copper, but there is: ruclips.net/video/ejPQmtADOaE/видео.html. I also wonder how frequently was your computer used during the course of the year in comparison to Timmy Joe’s laptop which did dry out in the same span of time.
I don't get the evidence part, anyway, I’m using everyday, it is my main gaming + editing machine. I think he applied too little which didn’t leave any extra LM after the reaction. It doesn't "dry" because they are all chemical reaction.
I'm sorry but I don't think he knew what he was doing or talking about. Asus has many laptops that use liquid metal instead of traditional paste.
You should watch NileRed's video about the reaction between Mercury and Aluminum as it is similar to this.
91c with direct die, definitely did it wrong
Experts ...... Milions.... hahaha
I am baffled...I have a normal 10700kf and only reach 80C not even delidded. Besides I have cracked dies on 1333mhz amd processors in the past. No thanks. I also have a 2-120 mm fan liquid cooler and run at 4.9 ghz on all cores. Also you should have sanded your cpu cooler. I always did.
DD and still 81 like there is something wrong right ?
Ah direct die testing ^_^
I successfully kept myself from removing the cooler :))
@@PokerFaZe I like my 9900kf exactly where it is. Stock and under a blackridge. That being said... I may eventually change cases.
What case are you going for next? And are you planning to get the single-fan 3060? :D
Well I am fine with the case for now, but I am concerned that we won't see a 3060 ti under 185mm.
I am hoping that MSI or Gigabyte will make a 180mm card otherwise ill have to import one.
If I can't get a 180mm 3060, 3060ti, or 3070 then I will have to upgrade the case to a Sentury, a DanA4, an Nr200, or a TU150 so I can have a 3070.
@@greenprotag MSI released an Aero ITX 3060 ti yesterday! still unobtanium but it's there..!
using screws is good to brick your socket with intel platforms.... Its a big risk tighten full tread screws using your intuition when to stop!
Slight Biden insult- well now I have to subscribe!
Too much
If you are careful you can lapp the cpu die with some some very fine sand paper nothing corse or rough and water don't push hard I seen debaurer do it he had great success with lowering temps check his video out
Your jokes are funny, and I agree about biden.