I learn so much from your posts. Thanks for posting Steve. I have used that Titebond hide glue on a small side table build just once and was very impressed with the easy clean up.
Thanks John. I appreciate you watching and commenting on my videos. I’ve used hide glue in the past but generally run out of patience before it dries. 😁. Take care, Steve
Nice Video. I like the trace coat trick, I'll have to try it. I use liquid hide glue most of the time because any squeeze out missed will not show up after the finish has been applied.
Thanks John! I almost always use a trace coat when I’m gluing up large panels. I like hide glue too but generally run out of patience before it dries. 😁. Take care, Steve
Hi Steve, another great video and thanks for all your efforts. I do a little woodworking and I consider myself a professional novice since I am always learning. When I saw that you were using cherry for this project I was hoping you had found some magical way to keep the wood from burning. I have used it many times and always have had a problem with it burning even with very sharp tools and patience. The end product is always beautiful but you have to be willing to pay the price of sanding. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks Willie. Burning in cherry is part of the build, at lease for me anyway. I resign myself that I'm going to have to sand and sand some more. Thanks for watching and for the comment. It's much appreciated. Take care, Steve
I question the structural strength of the mitered sides with only biscuits. At least you used tb3 but I think you should have used additional reinforcement such as an inside dovetailed trim loop. The stain is amazing though expensive. I'll definitely have to get some
Armus - Thank you for your comment. I agree that mitered joints can be weak. On this project I think that it will be fine as the case doesn't get moved or used in a way that would cause the joint to fail. Thanks again for the comment. Take care, Steve
A restorer of expensive antiques (18th - early 20th century) uses a heat gun to gently warm the glue so even delicate pieces will release. Give it a try on a test piece. All the best, --Joe
I process my stock through a drum sander with 80 grit which leaves some pretty serious grooves in the pieces. I use a random orbit sander with 80 to remove the grooves then sand with 120 grit. My final grit is 180. I have a planer but it's old and noisy so I seldom use it. I'm a power tool woodworker and seldom use a hand plane. I hope that answers your questions. If not, let me know. Take care, Steve
Love Hope Chests!
I learn so much from your posts. Thanks for posting Steve. I have used that Titebond hide glue on a small side table build just once and was very impressed with the easy clean up.
Thanks John. I appreciate you watching and commenting on my videos. I’ve used hide glue in the past but generally run out of patience before it dries. 😁. Take care, Steve
i guess Im quite off topic but do anyone know a good website to stream new series online ?
@Sebastian Jamison Try Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
Nice Video. I like the trace coat trick, I'll have to try it. I use liquid hide glue most of the time because any squeeze out missed will not show up after the finish has been applied.
Thanks John! I almost always use a trace coat when I’m gluing up large panels. I like hide glue too but generally run out of patience before it dries. 😁. Take care, Steve
Hi Steve, another great video and thanks for all your efforts. I do a little woodworking and I consider myself a professional novice since I am always learning. When I saw that you were using cherry for this project I was hoping you had found some magical way to keep the wood from burning. I have used it many times and always have had a problem with it burning even with very sharp tools and patience. The end product is always beautiful but you have to be willing to pay the price of sanding. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks Willie. Burning in cherry is part of the build, at lease for me anyway. I resign myself that I'm going to have to sand and sand some more. Thanks for watching and for the comment. It's much appreciated. Take care, Steve
I question the structural strength of the mitered sides with only biscuits. At least you used tb3 but I think you should have used additional reinforcement such as an inside dovetailed trim loop.
The stain is amazing though expensive. I'll definitely have to get some
Armus - Thank you for your comment. I agree that mitered joints can be weak. On this project I think that it will be fine as the case doesn't get moved or used in a way that would cause the joint to fail. Thanks again for the comment. Take care, Steve
A restorer of expensive antiques (18th - early 20th century) uses a heat gun to gently warm the glue so even delicate pieces will release. Give it a try on a test piece.
All the best,
--Joe
Thanks for the tip Joe. It's much appreciated. Take care, Steve
thank you
You're very welcome Walter. Take care, Steve
I'm confused, why sand before glueing? And why don't you plane after glueing?
I process my stock through a drum sander with 80 grit which leaves some pretty serious grooves in the pieces. I use a random orbit sander with 80 to remove the grooves then sand with 120 grit. My final grit is 180. I have a planer but it's old and noisy so I seldom use it. I'm a power tool woodworker and seldom use a hand plane. I hope that answers your questions. If not, let me know. Take care, Steve