History's Most Misunderstood Chest || Six Board Chest
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2023
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Trick shots, dovetails, cut nails, and freakin salt shooters, this is the wild west of woodworking 😂. Love your channel, and always look forward to your vids. Seriously, you're the only woodworker I subscribe to that has me anticipating the next video; I scroll through RUclips and wonder where the hell Frank is 😊. Keep it up and look forward to more of your continued success 🙌
Yippee ki yay!
😂 Thanks so much man!
It always just blows me away how insanely sharp your planes are. No matter what I do, mine just don't shave like that. 😲
Find Rob Cosman. He's got a great method for sharpening. I tried many methods then settled on his. Works great.
@@dtalbott2 I've seen Rob's method. It's rather expensive.
Flatten you plane sole, tune up the cap iron, adjust the frog, and sharpen the iron.
Sharpening takes practice. For wood you only really need to use a stone to around 1,000 to 2,000 grit, followed by the strop. You want the surface mirror smooth, but the odd remnanent honing scratch doesn't matter. The two easy tests - if you're careful - are to rest the edge on your thumbnail with the tip of your thumb inclined downward to around 45 degrees. Rest the edge on your nail and lift the back end up to around vertical. If the edge doesn't show any tendency to slip, -it catches on your nail - it's good. The other test is shaving hair off your arm. Once you get practiced you should not be able to feel the blade catch the hair. It will look like the hair is jumping off your arm.
Yes I know the feeling
I like your dry humor and the easy and straight forward way of building practical things like the bench, the sawhorses etc.
milk paint. A lot of what is sold as milk paint has no milk in it. So beware on that. The benefits of milk paint are that 1) once it cures it is impervious, and 2) It looks _right_ on traditional furniture. I would find it improbable that traditional milk paint is actually better than modern paints in any meaningful way.
Well done and yes milk paint requires a little practice. (I.E. two projects). I've found mixing the first coat with a little too much water and the second coat 1/2 n 1/2 with a sanding between works best. Even better use two different colors. I've also had good luck burnishing it before adding a top finish really evens the shine.
Thanks man and appreciate the tips! Round 1 with the stuff humbled me for sure
Another great video! You have become my favorite woodworking RUclips channel as your style of woodworking is exactly what I am trying to work towards. I really appreciate all the tips. Thank you
Wow dude thank you!
This s a phenomenal video for a newbie! I learned at least three new things watching it. I never thought about woodworking as a high-level physical sport before, but your demonstrations reminds me of watching elite athletes handle their mallet/racquet/sword with full control while dancing through the most involved choreography. Thank you.
On my brother's recommendation, I bought a track saw (Makita), for cross-cutting bulk lumber and panels, since I no longer have a table saw. I am very pleased with how clean it cuts and how easy it is to set up. Also, a few months ago, I made a Moxon vise using the Taylor Tools kit and it works great for work holding when cutting dovetails. I was about to add that chisel work is some of my favorite and most relaxing things, but you beat me to it. I really enjoy cutting dovetails and mortises by hand using chisels -- its almost like moving meditation.
Machine or hand tool, when it works well it's always a joy to use a good tool! Yes chiseling mortises is the only way for me and it's not even usually a "show" joint
Now that was a fun way to spend time watching this build. I learned a few things as well. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Awesome, glad you enjoyed it
Nice build! Great tips and really nice use of hand tools!!
Thanks! 👍
Another stellar build and video from you Frank. I watched this as I am building a wall hung whiskey cabinet. As you were chiseling dovetails I was chiseling dovetails! I hope to have my video out in a few more weeks.
Awesome man looking forward to your video!
Outstanding hand tool execution. You are a true craftsman.
Just found your channel, that was a pleasure to watch. I think that green paint was fantastic! I love how it came out.
Awesome project. Love your philosophy about woodworking and hand tools
Thanks!
Nice work! I'm glad I'm not the only one that cuts the screws to length on a project. I usually cut them and then the next time I'm at the hardware store I pick up shorter screws. Stay safe and Happy Building!💯😁
Try running your scrub plane diagonally to the grain. It will be more noticable when you flatten the board with whatever plane you're gonna go with. Then when you hit it with a fine pass on a smoother, you'll wind the iron back and see in the shavings when they're full, and when they're skipping over divots. Also, look at any old basic chest like that, and you'll see so many tool marks, because they've been thrown together asap.
In almost 50 years of cabinetmaking, the Six Board Chest has been the most requested item of furniture.
That's the best 30 minutes I've spent all day. Can't say I'm in agreement with the final finish color, but the dovetails and trim details were absolutely the best. Thanks for this!!
Thank you so much!
Superb skill, great sense of humor, I really enjoyed this project. I was surprised you chose to paint it, the wood is so beautiful!
Thanks dude!
I just love your handtool work
Thank you!
Very impressive result.
My only observation would be that I find the mitre saw works better with long stokes (26:59) but that may be because the central part of my blade is a bit duller than its extremities.
Love what you're doing here, keep up the good work.
Much appreciated!
I'm by no means a dovetail expert, but I find when doing them or box joins scoring the line with a knife on both sides helps guide my saw, especially in the start of the cut.
I appreciate you building projects with big box lumber. I would love to have the budget for hardwood for all my projects but that seldom happens. I also bought an expensive dovetail saw thinking the saw would magically make my dovetails better. I found that I, amateur that I am, get better dovetails with the relatively inexpensive Japanese pull saw I had been using all along. Good grief. Congratulations on your beautiful family.
Do you normally use pull saws or push saws? I’ve considered a Japanese saw, but I’ve never used any pull saws before.
Thanks man! Lot of value to just sticking with something. I'm best with my cheap gents saw
@@gareths100 I have found for myself at least, the pull saw is much easier to control. Also, the very fine teeth on the crosscut version of the pull saw help to prevent the saw from "jumping around" as you start your cut. I have definitely tried to use the push saws but with less success on dovetails.
@@gareths100 As an amatuer myself, I find pull saws (I have 2, a Ryoba and Dozuki) are generally easier to start; it takes some experience with a push saw before you can start it on the first stroke. You can get decent ones for cheap, which is nice if you want to try them out.
Pull saws are an inexpensive way to get decent results early, push saws have perhaps a bit more of a learning curve. I learned on push saws many years ago, so that’s what I use still. FWIW, expensive does not always mean good. Rob Cosman’s dovetail saws aren’t cheap, but they are the best I’ve ever used and worth the money in my opinion.
Great video.
About flies.. Hate them especially when you are concentrated/sweating and they keep buzzing. But i have my big headed rubber mallet around and when they land...
Bang!
Stunning work and skills.
I am new to your channel and I think it is fantastic! This is my favorite channel. You build things that I am interested in building myself. Please keep it up!
Wow thanks a lot and welcome aboard!
New subscriber here. It’s nice to see someone else who likes to use construction lumber for projects, as the beauty and simplicity of pine etc is both traditional and inexpensive. I am also an uncivilized barbarian who enjoys popping off dried glue drips with a chisel, so there’s that too! . Also: it might be appropriate to title this “the six-board two-kid chest”. Just a thought. Nice work, all in all!
Haha love it thanks brotha!
Hello, Frank! I'm just sure that such a wonderful joiner like you will be much happier if he makes Moxon's vice for himself. The chest turned out to be very good. This is a real chest, not a cheap imitation on screws. I will try and do the same. Thank you for the video!
Thanks! You've mentioned it before and it sure would have been a good project for a moxon vise! I will make one at some point hopefully soon!
When marking your pin board, try setting your hand plane on its side, set your pin board to the same height as your plane in the vise, then use the plane to support the far end of your tail board.
Never underestimate a sharp chisel of any kind. Tried learning to do some filigree work... I now have a smiley face scar on my finger...
@FranksWorkbench thanks for the lesson. Can you please tell me what level of grits do you use for your sharpening?
Great job -- love your handwork. I wish that I was only 1/2 as good!!
Frank could you do a video to review that Baleigh jointer? I haven’t seen a lot on that piece and I’d appreciate your thoughts given your attention to detail and expertise.
Interesting project. I grew tired of fine woodworking several years ago due to repetition. I live in Tucson which is hip deep in non-Anglo culture. I became deeply interested in pre-Anglo woodworking using only hand tools and era joiner. There are some good reference materials published. We are lucky here to have era existing structures with furniture to study. Of note one of the most common surviving items are virtually the same low chest you are building in this video. The differences are the hand adze milling marks, joinery, hinging and most visually very decorative outside surfaces, both intricate carving and painted. Utilitarian needs really don't change much over time and place.
a slow hinge is nice for safety, looks good!
If worried about splitting a board you’re nailing, if possible, clamp the board across grain and usually works for me
I can confirm that shaking milk paint produces a lot of foam. I saw the tip to use an immersion blender somewhere and that works really well in my experience. Especially if you want to use a sprayer.
What size pilot holes do you use for the cut nails?
Lid needs a slow close hold open otherwise you could end up with broken little fingers
you can build a little right angle jig to attach to your plane with magnets that will keep you plane square to the flat surface.
Never watched you before. Good work. Enjoyed the content. Keep it up.
This is exactly the type of woodworking I would like to do. Still in the process of building my shop though. Great work! You got a subscribe from me!
Awesome thank you!
I also have a salt gun. Can confirm. Best fly swatter EVER.
Darn right!
No damage to glass I assume?
@jimcarter4929 none, it's single pump air rifle that only loads a dash of table salt per pump. Amazon bug-a-salt. Don't pay for their salt though. Standard retail table salt is fine.
Where do you get your cut nails from? I didn’t see them listed. Thanks!
Mad skills. Props.
Nice project. Do you have link for the epoxy? Doesn't seem to be in the description.
Those tools are SO SHARP!!
I did a chest like this last year. In fact, I even saw the thumbnail and thought Hey, this is my chest. lol
The differences being that I did go with crossing boards for the bottom (tongue and groove) and I choose breadboard ends for the top -- whitch was way harder to pull and kinda of a design mistake, because the way you did it makes the top to look sturdier
great video as always. LOVE my Skilsaw. I end up using it for everything.
Those big knots look like the Great Red Spot on Jupiter.
4:25 Plane envy... :)
Thanks sharing.😊
Thanks for watching!
That turned out great. The paint definitely looked better by the end and I find paste wax always classes up most finishes I've used. Bottom line, I'm glad it passed the kid test.
😀 Thanks man!
The new milk paint isn't the original milk paint of 20 years ago anymore. I've used milk paint many many times and I've never once had to shake it up nor did the finish look anything likes yours on that chest. I recently finished making a reproduction circa 1774 Pennsylvania totally hand cut dovetailed chest of drawers with reproduction solid brass pulls. I used a red milk paint, mixed with water, and it's nothing like what I saw you use and is a match to New England Red. It turned our beautiful and with it sitting next to the original in the clients home. very little differences can be found. The milk paint I use comes in a power form and takes several coats for it to even start covering the wood. You're an excellent hand tool craftsman and it's a joy to watch you work. Thanks for help keeping it alive.
Absolutely satisfying - excellent work - only one thing , my pref. - it was too nice to 'paint' it ~
Looks great. Need a chain on it to keep the lid from flipping over backwards and ripping itself off. DAMHIKT Might not be authentic but a soft close on the lid is a good idea and will keep little fingers safe.
I think I may add it. Thanks man
Good job Frank. I have never used milk paint and not really sure if I want to now 😆. Way to stick it through though. Your boys look like they are almost to the age for some wooden swords and shields 👍. I have 3 boys so they will be asking you to make them something here soon if they haven’t already.
Nooo, you can’t see the Dovetails???😊
Thanks Frank for sharing. I have had the same issue with milk paint. Having spent a fair bit of time looking into it afterwards, I have settled on what Chris Swarts has written about it. Basically, he uses twice as much water as milk paint. So, for one cup of milk paint, he uses 2 cups of water. As best I can tell that is twice the amount of water. If you read in between the lines of all those who have written about milk, paint, they come to the same conclusion, you have. It is a bit fiddly to apply it. I think it does look good. However, the first time you put it on is a bit overwhelming in terms of oh my gosh, what have I done to my piece of furniture that I have worked hard to prepare.
Yes dude exactly, it's that sinking feeling of isn't there an undo button on this thing 😂
@@FranksWorkbench I'll add use warm water.
"most expensive and least favorite dovetail saw"...! Do you have a video comparing your saws and explaining what you like and dislike? I'm in the market! Thanks :)
omg, how have i never heard of a salt gun? now I need one.
😀
I’ve got a 300,600, 1200 grit diamond stones and an old belt cut into pieces for a strop and can’t seem to get my plane that sharp. Guess I need to get some supper high grit wet stones?
Damn nice plane😊
😀
Thank you!! Great video!!
Nice work. Never used Milk paint myself (mostly linseed oiling) - I do know that if you leave the inside UN-treated (or not sealed) it will eventually warp the boards unevenly. . . Folks often not sealing of the underside of a table and then wonder why it cups or moves . . . Timber needs to be sealed in 360 degrees, not just on one side . . . :)
Apples and oranges, really. A table top, especially one done without breadboard ends or any joints to prevent warping, is waaay different that a chest like this.
The dovetails do not allow any major warping. If the wood is not dry enough, the worst case scenario is the boards splitting in the glueline -- but the paint have nothing to do with that, and a good woodworker offsets the glueline, so the dovetail cannot come apart. Maybe the bottom could warp, but just because he didn't use tongue and groove and elongated screw holes. Besides, he left both sides with raw wood, so no biggie.
I did a lot of chests like this and never, ever painted inside -- why would I have the extra job and contaminate the inside with the chemicals of the varnish, just to protect a part that nobody sees anyway and doen't need protection? And if you look at old furniture, nobody did waste expensive finish coating the underside -- even the backside was left raw.
People only started painting the inside "recently," with the start of furniture factories and the use of spray. It is easier to spray it all than it is taping the inside.
but, of course, if all you do is to sand a a slab of wood, put 4 metal legs and call it a table, you have to varnish the underside and hope for the best.
@@bmandrakeeee8378 NZ over a 10-15 year period changed the construction method (Timber framed) of our housing stock, which led to leaky/rotting homes - a point rammed home at an open air museum in Austria that collected farmhouse's that were built locally from each of the last 100 centuries. For fun I restore a lot of cheaply bought and in need of repair, bits of furniture and then either on-sell or donate away. Professionally I had to use daily some timber runners for 2 specific products we made - that timber was totally untreated and needed to be washed and dried - daily. They all have one thing in common - Timber needs to be able to breath and have freedom of movement - equally. Even a fully sealed chopping-board left standing in water (think wet bench) will crack or warp eventually. It gets worse if only half of it is sealed. The Farmers in Austria used a specific construction technique (raw untreated exposed timber) where the buildings survived/ lasted for several hundred of years - then they started chalking the outside (for looks) and the houses fell over (rotting away) in less then 50 years from being built - or in one case a 400year old building that was chalked. . Live in a humid environment - or if like me you toss your wet rugby boots into a wooden trunk every weekend- you will see the timber doing funny things eventually!
That's just been my experience - so as a matter of course i would apply at minimum one coat of linseed oil under or inside draws or tables or whatever regardless of how they are constructed. I wonder if Frank will do a followup in say 3 years time and talk about how well - or not - this has stood the test of time! Have fun
I did explain in detail my way of thinking and linked examples of 300 years-old furniture that was never painted apart from the outside, but the uploader axed what I wrote
so, you know, a house is not a chest and dovetails are not pocket screws, but I lost steam to explain after the guy deleted my reply. Good day to you.
I thought my planes were sharp until I watched this.
😆LOL!!!!😆 No fly!!!!!!
Another great project and handy for many people. Was that 4/4 pine? Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Jim! The trim was all finished up at about 3/4" and the main box was made with 5/4 rough pine finished at about 7/8"
Nice job man. That milk paint can catch you off guard at first. When you paint on that first coat it can look like you ruined your project, but after the second or third coat it starts to look really good. And it doesnt chip off like other paints, it goes in with the dents you get with wear.
Oh man I'm telling you what! First coat I was like well I guess the video will be called "how I ruined my project" maybe it will get views LOL
Can you elaborate on the cut nails? What’s the advantage to using them? Thanks
There is no alternative to accuracy. Accurate things will last forever. That’s what you did. Thanks
I literally just got my grandfathers long plane today, it needs love, sat for a little bit, I want to clean it up so I can flatten this board I'm working on. I'm waiting on m new wet stones. and guide. Any suggestions on how to flatten the bottom of the plane?
Awesome man! I haven't done full restoration myself but good luck to you and enjoy!
Parabéns!!!
You don't need glue on the end grain. It has virtually no real holding power compared to face grain. You an leave the bottom of those recesses empty from now on.
The most successful people are the learners. After all , life is about learning new things , and applying them. Thanks
6:30 the best woodworkers produce more chips than sawdust
The area on the inside edge of the pins you pare away, isn't that long grain gluing surface? Does that weaken the joint?
Yes it sure could. I did a video going in a little deeper on doing that. I wouldn't recommend it for smaller set of dovetails but if done carefully it can help with a larger corner like this where there is still going to be a ton of surface area sliding together
nice work
I understand your feelings about milk paint. But it does give an amazing matte surface. First time I used it, I shook the water and powder, waited the recommended time, tried it, waited another 20 minutes or so, tried it again, put the mix in the fridge overnight and found it was much better the next day. Now I prepare the night before and store in the fridge overnight. Good video, beautiful chest Thanks for sharing.
Nice box...cheers
milk paint always looks terrible with the first coat. You need to add two coats to get it to look good most of the time. Then rub it with oil or wax. I have even done a guitar with it.
I think that the chest is really well-made and will last generations, but the finish could have been done with extra care. And I totally understand, because when I put 50 hours into a project and is finally time to apply finish, I am sick of dealing with it and just want to get over.
to me, the paint job looked great once dried. I think that was the shellac that messed up the finish, as it looks to me that you didn't put enough coats -- especially on the top. And, idk, it seems to me that the fun of milk paint is the matte look. If you put bright varnish on top, it defeats the purpose and you can just apply acrylic paint, because its easier. Next time, maybe a flat varnish, or even a satin? With matte finish, you can get amazing results with a brush -- it is less expensive too.
I don't have experience with milk paint, but I do know that these live knots always bleed through any paint job. If you are gonna paint it anyway, maybe is best to router and inlay a 1/16 piece of wood covering every big knot, or drill and putty them. another way is to put a coat of shellac before painting -- but with these big knots, they will always bleed.
A good video about flat varnish for projects like yours: ruclips.net/video/-exDIhQf8mc/видео.html&ab_channel=hffcom
You are amazing my friend, I wish you always success and good luck ❤️🇵🇸🇵🇸🇵🇸
I appreciate it!
Good work.
Heat and moisture are the keys to hide glue, even liquid hide glue. And since you were using hot hide glue, adding a little salt would give you a longer set time.
I did have a bit of urea granules in there
lovely stuff.
Thanks for the video brother; just finally watched it (listened to it twice before already). Have some feedback for you on one of the merch items; I’ll message it to you though. Hope this finds you and yours doing well.
PS- I’m all hand tools except for the DeWalt DW735 (aka: the apprentice), but I agree with you, the Mag77 SkilSaw is maybe the best circular saw ever made; it ‘built America’ in the second half of the 20th Century
For sure man, send me an email! Glad you enjoyed it, was the most fun project I've done ina while!
Merci
Kids love it and that's all that matters.
I think it turned out great
Yes sir!
Frank: “I can confirm that it will hold 2 kids”
Wayfair: 👀👀👀👀👀
BAHHAHA
😂😂
was this before you chopped the tip off your finger? or is this after and it just healed so well it's not noticeable?
Before. But check out my last video (bench design) was from after and it's really not noticeable
@FranksWorkbench, where do you get your cut nails? Are they masonry nails?
Got these online at Tremont nail company
Which is your favorite dovetail saw?
Lie Nielsen is fav pistol grip, and I like the crown gents saw too
Buenísimo si trabajo
Put the board in the other side of the vise…
Sneaky snacky squirrel!
😂
After all the work on those dove tails, you nail the bottom on? I don't get it, I know it's probably a traditional method, but I think you could have come up with a better way?
Brass piano hinge?