I wish I'd thought of the scabbing before I started working on my shower. I had destroyed printed panel plywood (with a mural on it) over rotten plywood on top of termite damaged tongue and groove and some termite damaged studs. I used furring strips and some 3/4" plywood to cover some of the areas. It's a hot mess in there. Not doing tile though. To screw or not to screw. That is the question. I like the tape with stud & screw location notations. I need to use that. Hmm.. drilling through the cementboard before cutting is another thing I didn't think of. I like that idea. Ok, so the tapered edges go together when they are stacked. I have the same situation with about the same amount of space. I'll need one full board on the back wall and a partial above it. This is very helpful. Thank you! I bought some spacing shims to make sure I get the gaps the correct size. ooh, cardboard template. That's my plan as well. LOL.
Thank you for the well thought out and articulated comment. Thankfully we had picked up some tips over the years to help simplify the process. We’re still a work in progress 😂. We wish you well with your difficult project; You got this!!! 😊
@@SilverLiningDayDreams Thank you! Right now it's a weekends project since I only have one good arm to work with and have to wait for my best friend to be available. LOL. PSA: Never use a cracked induction cooktop. It can electrify the pan and zap you. I was lucky that I only touched the handle for a few seconds when my hand slipped off the silicone handle cover. Electrocution injury to my deltoid & bicep. That was in November and I still don't have full mobility back. I'm hoping to have more mobility back by the time we finish this. Really hoping to have it done before April.
Thanks! @@dadio1301 I've had some hiccups but now I have the cement board up, taped, and "mudded" with modified thinset mortar. The L-bead trim from clark deitrich made the edges look nice since the cement boards stick out from the rest of the walls. I'll be adding additional PVC board trim around it. Shower arm will go through a PVC board. So next steps are to install the surround and the pvc boards, cut holes (which have already been marked and pilot drilled on the cement board and plywood) and install the plumbing. Then painting and caulking next. It's not perfect but the surround is forgiving of imperfection thankfully. And I will install a corner grab bar. I'm really hoping to have it finished this week. I will add that this project has been a bear with an injured arm. When I started I could barely use the arm, but I've been doing exercises and getting better. I can now reach above my head with it but can't get it as high as my other arm and it is not as strong. Got a friend helping me but have to wait for him to be available. I need his help for the rest of it because I'm a complete monkey with anything adhesive. LOL.
I'm in the process of replacing my bathtub surround due to mold growth. Was looking to get more information on how to install the durarock and came across your video. Instantly recognized you. I was one of the Wildlife technicians with AAAC that assisted you with your pest issue. Great video!!
Wow, small world. Nice to hear from you; I do remember you coming out to our house. Thanks for the encouraging comment. Hope the remodel goes seamless for you! Take care 😊
Your welcome. How exciting that your remodeling your ranch. So many cool choices out there to incorporate in a Reno. Good luck and let us know how it goes. You got this 👍
Great question. For added peace of mind one could add 2 by 4 wood structure going horizonal all around the tub slightly above the top of the tub to minimize movement. If I had to do it all over again I would have taken the time to do that. Some people do it and some people don't. I think we will be OK because the original tile there was over drywall without the 2 by 4 structure and it lasted decades. Thanks for watching.
I already used cement board in my shower, but what about green board?. is that just for the rest of the bathroom. I thought that was supposed to be a water proof drywall. I am just wondering.
Green Board is a drywall for use in more humid areas like behind a sink or in the basement or in a bathroom. But not in a shower as it’s not more waterproof like cement board. It’s less prone to mold I believe 😊
Green board is NOT waterproof. It is supposedly mold resistant, but it is definitely not mold proof. If you get green board wet, it will do the same thing any other drywall does. It will disintegrate. Never use it behind tile. It is against code in most places for these reasons.
Hi.....is the drywall above the cement board painted? What's your opinion on tiling over semigloss latex paint. I noticed in your other video that you applied redgard over your drywall section. Now, if your wall, let's say, was painted, would redgard stick to it? FYI, My DIY shower project is a carbon copy of your shower project. Thank you in advance, your input is appreciated.
Great question! Here’s what RedGard says…. Uses Interior surfaces / exterior concrete and masonry surfaces Shower pans, showers, tub surrounds Swimming pools, fountains, water features Spas, hot tubs, steam showers, steam rooms Industrial, commercial and residential applications Commercial /residential kitchens, food processing areas Exterior balconies and decks over occupied/unoccupied spaces Exterior facades. So I would assume painted drywall would be ok but honestly I don’t know for sure. I’m thinking an older painted wall would have better adhering than a freshly painted wall. I’m sorry but I don’t know for sure. I’ll text one of my friends that tiles for a living and see what he says. He doesn’t know either, sorry
Great question. My son in law did on his bathroom Reno and it’s ok 3 years later. I would recommend 1/2” for peace of mind. My understanding is that 1/2 “ or more is needed. Take care 😊
Hi there. I've installed the Durock cement board in the shower but now realizing I can't paint it without prepping it. What is the process for prepping for painting?
Thanks for watching. I am assuming you mean before painting with a water proofing membrane. If that’s the case watching our video called....”How to tape cement board joints” may help. I will link it below. Where the tub flange meets the cement board we caulked and then about 3 hours later applied RedGard water proofing membrane. I think how we did it will work but there may be better options out there for this procedure. I suggest you also watch our video on water proofing a shower with RedGard which you can view on our channel. So again below is the video link :). ruclips.net/video/oVVGU1AxVhM/видео.html
Thanks for watching. It is a lot of work And more time consuming than I thought it would be. But the pay off when it’s finished Will make it all worthwhile.
Thanks. Great question. I used what Menards had at the time; sorry I can’t remember their name. But they state they are “cement board” screws. They make them with a special thread design to help grip the substrates together and with a corrosion resistant coating to help keep rust from bleeding through into the grout. Not sure what they are made of material wise. Thanks for watching and consider subscribing for more 😊
There made by Hillman at lowes, cement board screws. T25 head. The head grips the board rather than how a drywall screw would work in drywall t25 makes life of difference dont look at Philip
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
Thanks 😊 We have another shower we’re going to work on this winter. Not sure if we’re going to tile or use one of those paint restoration kits. It’s a smaller 3/4 bathroom. Take care 😊
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Marking where the studs are before you put up the cement board to a super good tip! Thanks!
Thanks!
We’re hoping to redo our other shower this winter 😊
Take care!
“King of the grill.” You sir are dad level 9000. Respect.
Thanks Jon. You made our day! :)
I wish I'd thought of the scabbing before I started working on my shower. I had destroyed printed panel plywood (with a mural on it) over rotten plywood on top of termite damaged tongue and groove and some termite damaged studs. I used furring strips and some 3/4" plywood to cover some of the areas. It's a hot mess in there. Not doing tile though.
To screw or not to screw. That is the question.
I like the tape with stud & screw location notations. I need to use that.
Hmm.. drilling through the cementboard before cutting is another thing I didn't think of. I like that idea.
Ok, so the tapered edges go together when they are stacked. I have the same situation with about the same amount of space. I'll need one full board on the back wall and a partial above it. This is very helpful. Thank you!
I bought some spacing shims to make sure I get the gaps the correct size.
ooh, cardboard template. That's my plan as well. LOL.
Thank you for the well thought out and articulated comment. Thankfully we had picked up some tips over the years to help simplify the process.
We’re still a work in progress 😂.
We wish you well with your difficult project; You got this!!! 😊
@@SilverLiningDayDreams Thank you! Right now it's a weekends project since I only have one good arm to work with and have to wait for my best friend to be available. LOL.
PSA: Never use a cracked induction cooktop. It can electrify the pan and zap you. I was lucky that I only touched the handle for a few seconds when my hand slipped off the silicone handle cover. Electrocution injury to my deltoid & bicep. That was in November and I still don't have full mobility back. I'm hoping to have more mobility back by the time we finish this. Really hoping to have it done before April.
@@catsmeow5566 wow! Hope all is going well!
Thanks! @@dadio1301 I've had some hiccups but now I have the cement board up, taped, and "mudded" with modified thinset mortar. The L-bead trim from clark deitrich made the edges look nice since the cement boards stick out from the rest of the walls. I'll be adding additional PVC board trim around it. Shower arm will go through a PVC board. So next steps are to install the surround and the pvc boards, cut holes (which have already been marked and pilot drilled on the cement board and plywood) and install the plumbing. Then painting and caulking next. It's not perfect but the surround is forgiving of imperfection thankfully. And I will install a corner grab bar. I'm really hoping to have it finished this week.
I will add that this project has been a bear with an injured arm. When I started I could barely use the arm, but I've been doing exercises and getting better. I can now reach above my head with it but can't get it as high as my other arm and it is not as strong. Got a friend helping me but have to wait for him to be available. I need his help for the rest of it because I'm a complete monkey with anything adhesive. LOL.
Thank you soooo much. Your method for supporting cement board in front of the plumbing was exactly what I needed.
Your welcome; so glad you took the time to let us know. Stay tuned for more :)
I'm in the process of replacing my bathtub surround due to mold growth. Was looking to get more information on how to install the durarock and came across your video. Instantly recognized you. I was one of the Wildlife technicians with AAAC that assisted you with your pest issue. Great video!!
Wow, small world. Nice to hear from you; I do remember you coming out to our house. Thanks for the encouraging comment. Hope the remodel goes seamless for you!
Take care 😊
This is exactly what I was looking for! Remodeling my 63 ranch. Thanks for the help and big thanks for showing how to keep things plumb!
Your welcome. How exciting that your remodeling your ranch. So many cool choices out there to incorporate in a Reno. Good luck and let us know how it goes. You got this 👍
great vid -love the stud perfection tip
Thanks 😊
Thank you so much! This is a very informative video. Loved it
Your welcome! Glad we could help!
We’re hoping to remodel our little bathroom off our master bedroom sometime down the road; so worth it 😊
Wow! Excited to follow along on the journey!
Thanks again for following us Sarah
Great video man.... you covered exactly what I needed for my bathroom project in furring out the studds.
Thanks. You got this! 😊
This guy explains good not B.S like other videos thanks 👍
Thank you for the encouraging comment 😊
Great video!
Thanks for being a great encouragement!
I love your videos!!! I always learn so much n you make it look so easy .. great information in a format that is enjoyable to watch!
Thanks for watching and for commenting. You made our day :)
Great details!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video👍🙌
Thanks 😊
Great video! Do you also need to screw into the bottom sill plate to minimize all movement and potential tile cracking?
Great question. For added peace of mind one could add 2 by 4 wood structure going horizonal all around the tub slightly above the top of the tub to minimize movement. If I had to do it all over again I would have taken the time to do that. Some people do it and some people don't. I think we will be OK because the original tile there was over drywall without the 2 by 4 structure and it lasted decades. Thanks for watching.
I already used cement board in my shower, but what about green board?. is that just for the rest of the bathroom. I thought that was supposed to be a water proof drywall. I am just wondering.
Green Board is a drywall for use in more humid areas like behind a sink or in the basement or in a bathroom. But not in a shower as it’s not more waterproof like cement board.
It’s less prone to mold I believe 😊
Green board is NOT waterproof. It is supposedly mold resistant, but it is definitely not mold proof. If you get green board wet, it will do the same thing any other drywall does. It will disintegrate. Never use it behind tile. It is against code in most places for these reasons.
Hi.....is the drywall above the cement board painted? What's your opinion on tiling over semigloss latex paint. I noticed in your other video that you applied redgard over your drywall section. Now, if your wall, let's say, was painted, would redgard stick to it? FYI, My DIY shower project is a carbon copy of your shower project.
Thank you in advance, your input is appreciated.
Great question! Here’s what RedGard says….
Uses
Interior surfaces / exterior concrete and masonry surfaces Shower pans, showers, tub surrounds
Swimming pools, fountains, water features Spas, hot tubs, steam showers, steam rooms
Industrial, commercial and residential applications
Commercial /residential kitchens, food processing areas Exterior balconies and decks over occupied/unoccupied spaces Exterior facades.
So I would assume painted drywall would be ok but honestly I don’t know for sure. I’m thinking an older painted wall would have better adhering than a freshly painted wall. I’m sorry but I don’t know for sure.
I’ll text one of my friends that tiles for a living and see what he says.
He doesn’t know either, sorry
Love how you say geeeap and sceeeab.😂
😂 thanks
It runs in the family 😂😊
Hahahaha!
Good job!
Thanks!
we gotta cut out the shower tub box to do this weekend.....saws-all it is....new tub and tile job....ugh, hope i it goes good...got some help to do it
👍. Best of luck. You’ve got this!
Great info, great job.
Thanks Arni. You made our day!
I’m re-doing my shower and also ran across the contradicting vids about where the board sits along the flange. Oh my it gave me such a headache
Yes, very confusing and different opinions out there for sure. Did you finish your shower yet?
Can you use 1/4 inch for backer cement board or does it have to be 1/2 inch???
Great question. My son in law did on his bathroom Reno and it’s ok 3 years later. I would recommend 1/2” for peace of mind. My understanding is that 1/2 “ or more is needed. Take care 😊
Hi there. I've installed the Durock cement board in the shower but now realizing I can't paint it without prepping it. What is the process for prepping for painting?
Thanks for watching. I am assuming you mean before painting with a water proofing membrane. If that’s the case watching our video called....”How to tape cement board joints” may help. I will link it below. Where the tub flange meets the cement board we caulked and then about 3 hours later applied RedGard water proofing membrane. I think how we did it will work but there may be better options out there for this procedure. I suggest you also watch our video on water proofing a shower with RedGard which you can view on our channel. So again below is the video link :). ruclips.net/video/oVVGU1AxVhM/видео.html
Home depot has 1/4" and 1/2" cement board. What do I use?
We used 1/2 inch. Most people I think would use the 1/2 inch. You got this 👍
I had no idea it could be so much work! Is it more than you were expecting? BTW- it’s really coming along!
Thanks for watching. It is a lot of work And more time consuming than I thought it would be. But the pay off when it’s finished Will make it all worthwhile.
Definitely a lot of work! The funny part is when we go on an estimate and the wife says “so this is gonna take a day or two right..?” 😂😂
@@BrianJones-cu2sx hahahaha!
@@BrianJones-cu2sx 😂
So helpful.TY
You’re welcome. Glad we could help! 😊
Making progress!
Thanks! We’re so glad it’s done now. Nice to have our main shower back!
Great video what kind of screws do you use to screw the cement boards? Are they galvanized screws ?
Thanks. Great question. I used what Menards had at the time; sorry I can’t remember their name. But they state they are “cement board” screws. They make them with a special thread design to help grip the substrates together and with a corrosion resistant coating to help keep rust from bleeding through into the grout. Not sure what they are made of material wise. Thanks for watching and consider subscribing for more 😊
There made by Hillman at lowes, cement board screws. T25 head. The head grips the board rather than how a drywall screw would work in drywall t25 makes life of difference dont look at Philip
When issue I have had is the concrete board/hardie board is not flush with existing drywall. What a pain it is to get those mated properly.
We feel your pain!
Thanks for leaving a comment with your thoughts 😊
I forgot to mesh tape all joints and just applied thinset... Is it okay to leave like that???
Sorry for the late response! We just noticed we forgot to answer this (hope it’s not too late!)! Always best to add the mesh tape. 🙂
👍
Thanks again for watching Jim. 👍
Cool 👍🏻
Thanks. 😊
👍👍👍
Thanks Rachel. We love making these videos!
Thank you
Your welcome 😊
No tar paper between the cement board and studs?
No, we did not. Didn’t feel the need for it. What are your thoughts on it?
You never want to leave a gap between your cement board and tub flange. You are almost guaranteeing that you will get water behind your tub.
Thanks for leaving a recommendation 😊
Yikes silicone will fail you want to ship lap with silicone under it
Shiplap?
Not sure if I totally understand what your intending to say. Can you elaborate 😊
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
No problem. You’ll want to either shim out the wall. If tub flang is 1/4” that’s what you’ll want to do what you did you’ll end with water wicking up and since it will all move at different rates it will crack once the silicone gets more dried out. I’ve seen some use butyl tape because of its rubber like properties and long lasting but then you’ll have to account for that with the shimming too. No different then accounting for crowning or dips usually cardboard shims are the easiest
Great video !!!
Thanks 😊
We have another shower we’re going to work on this winter. Not sure if we’re going to tile or use one of those paint restoration kits. It’s a smaller 3/4 bathroom.
Take care 😊