Hey man, just a few tips. First, you just want enough side to side play in the rear axle to tell that there is some. How much you had was to much and can cause the car to be inconsistent on corner entry. Second, you were right about everything you said about the diff up until the tension of the diff nut. It needs to be tight enough that you can BARELY turn the spur while holding both tires, tight enough that it almost hurts your thumb to turn it. If it's as loose as you had it, you may slip it off the grid in your race which flat spots the balls and gets you rear ended right off the bat. Otherwise, very nice video my friend.
All the best guys I ran with set it with feeler gauges - not the "that's too much; that's too little" method. We also 4 corner scale our cars. We also use torque wrenches to set the diff preload so it's always the same and consistent. We would weigh the grease applied to the diff too. Then, after we spent all this time and effort doing all this intricate bullshit, we get smashed in to the wall in turn one and break the car as fast as possible. 😂😂
when the ride hight is set higher n the rear than the front its adds instability to the car ... that is only used when your hurting for more steering and there is no adjustment to get what you are looking for. the car should be level or a .5mm lower in the rear
I’m building one at the moment and I noticed the screws that run into ball nut is a bit long and screw is suppose to be flush at to of ball which’s let’s play develop theses are the side pistons. Not sure if suppose to be that way or should I put washer in to take slack up and stop clicking
I have CRC carpet knife with reedy radon 17.5 brushed and it's quick but would like smoother motor and little bit more power from brushless what should I get.currently use quick run 1060 esc and use 2s lipo
we run brushless motors with a one cell battery .. as far as what motor to get would depend on the rules at your local track ...some tracks in the USA run 17.5 and 13.5 and some open classes ,, I like the 17.5 24K
+David Marin hobbywing 10 bl 60 I ran the car for a year with out a booster with no problems ... the info from the video came from top drivers in the area .... I am not a video expert but I did the best I could to put some info out there for people to see and hopefully help >> N8whopper pointed out a few things I missed ... but he responded respectfully and I value his input .... I hope this was a help...
+David Marin yes sir ,, no booster ,, or receiver pack,, I know it goes against everything we have been told >>but lets say the tip was from a great source.. the way it was put to me less weight ,, less twitchy ,, you don't need it ,,, but once again just my findings ,,
Hey guys! I need some help about my RC Pan car i built. I bought the following parts in E bay and build an RC Pan car 1/12. But I discovered a problem and that is about its range (7 meters). The car should go about 1km minimum but Ive got only 7meters and it will stop, that's the farthest it can go. So these are the parts on my car right now. Transmitter: FS-GT2 2.4 ghz Receiver: 3 Channel FS-GR3E ESC Specifics: The BEC output :5.6V, 2A Forward Current :320A Back Current :240A Voltage range :4.8-8 .4 V PWM Frequency :1.5KHZ Servo: Futaba FP S-148 Direct Drive Motor: GoolRC Brushed 540/21T Battery: 7.2V 6300 Ni-Mh SP Hope someone can point me out what supposed to be the problem with my build.
Best to have the battery in the car when checking the ride height buddy
Great info, I’m new to 1/12 scale. It helped a lot. Thanks.
Great video! Thank you for posting this! Please do more!
Hey man, just a few tips. First, you just want enough side to side play in the rear axle to tell that there is some. How much you had was to much and can cause the car to be inconsistent on corner entry. Second, you were right about everything you said about the diff up until the tension of the diff nut. It needs to be tight enough that you can BARELY turn the spur while holding both tires, tight enough that it almost hurts your thumb to turn it. If it's as loose as you had it, you may slip it off the grid in your race which flat spots the balls and gets you rear ended right off the bat. Otherwise, very nice video my friend.
All the best guys I ran with set it with feeler gauges - not the "that's too much; that's too little" method. We also 4 corner scale our cars. We also use torque wrenches to set the diff preload so it's always the same and consistent. We would weigh the grease applied to the diff too. Then, after we spent all this time and effort doing all this intricate bullshit, we get smashed in to the wall in turn one and break the car as fast as possible. 😂😂
when the ride hight is set higher n the rear than the front its adds instability to the car ... that is only used when your hurting for more steering and there is no adjustment to get what you are looking for. the car should be level or a .5mm lower in the rear
your meant to have the battery in the car when doing ride height?????
I’m building one at the moment and I noticed the screws that run into ball nut is a bit long and screw is suppose to be flush at to of ball which’s let’s play develop theses are the side pistons. Not sure if suppose to be that way or should I put washer in to take slack up and stop clicking
I'm new to pan cars and bought a used one. I want to change the rear shock oil do I just pull the shock off the balls to take it off?
hey Bill this is will from zaks I got info for you an jay
What is the battery you are running in this, brand please.... I have a new tamiya rm-01 and have no idea what battery to run
I have CRC carpet knife with reedy radon 17.5 brushed and it's quick but would like smoother motor and little bit more power from brushless what should I get.currently use quick run 1060 esc and use 2s lipo
we run brushless motors with a one cell battery .. as far as what motor to get would depend on the rules at your local track ...some tracks in the USA run 17.5 and 13.5 and some open classes ,, I like the 17.5 24K
what esc are u using and did you need a booster and how is it
+David Marin hobbywing 10 bl 60 I ran the car for a year with out a booster with no problems ... the info from the video came from top drivers in the area .... I am not a video expert but I did the best I could to put some info out there for people to see and hopefully help >> N8whopper pointed out a few things I missed ... but he responded respectfully and I value his input .... I hope this was a help...
So you ran the hobbywing justock esc with out booster
+David Marin yes sir ,, no booster ,, or receiver pack,, I know it goes against everything we have been told >>but lets say the tip was from a great source.. the way it was put to me less weight ,, less twitchy ,, you don't need it ,,, but once again just my findings ,,
May I please ask if you needed anything extra for this ESC. I checked the specs and it says 2S-3S.
Thanks.
Hey guys!
I need some help about my RC Pan car i built. I bought the following
parts in E bay and build an RC Pan car 1/12. But I discovered a problem
and that is about its range (7 meters). The car should go about 1km
minimum but Ive got only 7meters and it will stop, that's the farthest
it can go.
So these are the parts on my car right now.
Transmitter: FS-GT2 2.4 ghz
Receiver: 3 Channel FS-GR3E
ESC Specifics:
The BEC output :5.6V, 2A
Forward Current :320A
Back Current :240A
Voltage range :4.8-8 .4 V
PWM Frequency :1.5KHZ
Servo: Futaba FP S-148 Direct Drive
Motor: GoolRC Brushed 540/21T
Battery: 7.2V 6300 Ni-Mh SP
Hope someone can point me out what supposed to be the problem with my build.
You’re ride height is wrong because u have no battery in car