Excellent video. Have been waiting to build a shelf because I thought I needed to build a complicated dado jig to make the cut. Glad there is a more straightforward solution to such an essential cut. Thanks!
Mr Video then don't clamp the jig where he did at one end because when you start or finish at the end without a clamp you could push the jig to one side this was a stupid idea have a clamp at both ends to be safe. The jig is fine but the clamping one end only is stupid.
Thanks! It's been awhile since I routed a dado. Been away from woodworking for over 20 years due to profession and travel. Great to relearn some of the basics from a real pro. I'll be looking for more of your videos as I come back up to speed.
This is especially good because it can cut to the same width/thickness as the particular shelf. 1x stock from the lumber yard only approximates the standard thickness, and a one-size-fits-all router dado jig for supposed 1x stock will cut some dados too narrow and some too wide. Setting the jig for each specific shelf will cut exactly to that shelf. Thank you for an excellent idea and video.
Hey Bob, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent tutorial on how to rout dadoes via jigs. I especially appreciate your including in the instruction the technique of using a stop block to prevent the dado being seen on the front of the work piece.
I'm used to larger, corded routers ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
excellent video..i have a question regarding a slight variation of the placement of the shelving...you marked the top of the shelf at 12", what if i wanted a dado to be 12" on center? the top jig would have to be clamped to the work piece 12" from the top edge of the board, minus half the thickness of the shelving material....is there a dummy proof way to set that mark without measuring the actual thickness of the shelf, doing the crazy fractional math and then hoping i place the mark in the correct spot? thank you!
Hi Bob and thanks for the videos, but I have a question about routing plywood for a T-Track, the plywood has knots in it which I cannot avoid in my design. Without having to pay for premium plywood (that is pretty much Knotless) but twice the expense $$ how do you suggest getting a clean cut through knots in the wood or am I dreaming and it can't be done?
where do I purchase the router bits you used in your video; I would want (1) each 1/4" bit-a 1/2" bit and an undersized 3/4" bit; great video will make my jig today; thank,s PATRICK; THESE APPEAR TO BE SPECIAL BITS??
Thank you for this video. Its really amazing. I had a question. Can we use a roundover bit to round plywood edges. I heard we should not use router bits on plywood as the resin ruins the blades. But you are using it flawlessly. Could you please make a video on plywood edge roundover with router if possible. Thank you
@D. Lindsay not necessarily. How about a dado just near the end of a board, let's say for a bottom shelf of a bookcase that is just a few inches from the floor. I ended up using a sacrificial board to partly rest the jig on.
Does the width of the two jigs matter, and what size are the pieces you’re using? I’m getting ready to make the jigs with 12” wide, 1/2” thick MDF. Does that sound reasonable?
I wouldn't say that the width doesn't matter. Seems like it should be at least as wide as half the width of the router base. If you make the jig pieces too thin, the router might not sit without rocking. Also, the larger the jig pieces are, the larger the surface area is in contact with the piece beneath (thus more friction holding them together), the less likely the jig is to slip out of position when cutting the dado -- especially if it's only being held down by a single clamp.
When you glue the wood piece into the joint you made, how do you ensure it sets at a perfect 90 degree angle? As you showed, there was still a few degrees of slack.
Making sure that you have a nice, sharp bit can help to reduce chip out. In this video it looks like he's using baltic birch plywood, which isn't as prone to tear out as normal ply. If you're finding it always chips out at the end of the cut, you could try placing a scrap piece of ply (the same thickness as the ply that you are dadoing) along the edge where you're routing to back it up.
This last dato that he did was bullshit there was no need to chisel the rounded dato at all.All he had to do was go a little past the pencil mark and he would not have needed to chisel.
The best and least-complicated method I've seen so far. Terrific video, thank you!
Excellent video. Have been waiting to build a shelf because I thought I needed to build a complicated dado jig to make the cut. Glad there is a more straightforward solution to such an essential cut. Thanks!
Mr Video then don't clamp the jig where he did at one end because when you start or finish at the end without a clamp you could push the jig to one side this was a stupid idea have a clamp at both ends to be safe. The jig is fine but the clamping one end only is stupid.
I am pretty new to woodworking, I tried these jigs - they worked amazing. A good tight fit plus it will work for any size wood!
You speak so clearly and I cannot wait to try this. First time anyone has spoken about the importance of the router bit - too long etc . thanks
Thanks! It's been awhile since I routed a dado. Been away from woodworking for over 20 years due to profession and travel. Great to relearn some of the basics from a real pro. I'll be looking for more of your videos as I come back up to speed.
Bbbń
Really simple yet effective.
This is especially good because it can cut to the same width/thickness as the particular shelf. 1x stock from the lumber yard only approximates the standard thickness, and a one-size-fits-all router dado jig for supposed 1x stock will cut some dados too narrow and some too wide. Setting the jig for each specific shelf will cut exactly to that shelf. Thank you for an excellent idea and video.
Thanks for your time Mate. Very helpful.
such a simple solution for novices - very useful. thank you
Very very professional. Congratulations! I really appreciate your sharing your expertise.
Thanks for the demonstration. I will be using this technique for all my dadoes in the future.
Nice! Super easy. Thanks!
Excellent video tutorial, thank you.
“Wood” magazine has excellent RUclips videos.
Very simple, and very effective, thank you.
Fantastic tutorial.
Thank you so much! This was exactly what I needed. You explained it in a way I can understand. Thank you!
Great vid.
Just be weary, if using only one clamp on one side, the jig could move when you’re pushing the router along it.
I would maybe just screw them down
Needs some way of joining the two unclasped edges to each other once the gap is set.
Thank you,very helpful
Hey Bob, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent tutorial on how to rout dadoes via jigs. I especially appreciate your including in the instruction the technique of using a stop block to prevent the dado being seen on the front of the work piece.
just what I needed to see.
Genius, love it
Great explanation!
I'm used to larger, corded routers ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
So much easier than using a dado setup. I contemplated getting a second tablesaw just for cutting dados.
excellent video..i have a question regarding a slight variation of the placement of the shelving...you marked the top of the shelf at 12", what if i wanted a dado to be 12" on center? the top jig would have to be clamped to the work piece 12" from the top edge of the board, minus half the thickness of the shelving material....is there a dummy proof way to set that mark without measuring the actual thickness of the shelf, doing the crazy fractional math and then hoping i place the mark in the correct spot? thank you!
neat trick- Like it
Muchas gracias,muy practico.!!!!
Thank you very helpful
Very nice. Thanks for sharing
Ken
I just purchased my first dato set and already had a router.
O well new tool
Thanks so much
Nice class.
thank you - that's great
Great info!
Hi Bob and thanks for the videos, but I have a question about routing plywood for a T-Track, the plywood has knots in it which I cannot avoid in my design. Without having to pay for premium plywood (that is pretty much Knotless) but twice the expense $$ how do you suggest getting a clean cut through knots in the wood or am I dreaming and it can't be done?
Love to learn new stuff! Thanks
Cool idea 👏
I like that. It's so simple. But, I think I'll use 4/4 scrap wood I have, and the first pattern bit you showed to get a 3/8-inch deep dado.
nice wooden works
Where do you get that router bit? Having a hard time locating one. I think I found it... Amana 45460-S
Thanks
Is this a flush trim bit?
Thanks, do think a 500watt router is enough for this?
Good explain work setion
Rooter nice gage
I never thought I could do that with two simple pieces of wood. l liked so much your video
Thanks!
Now that's simple! But caution: make sure everything is tight; the bit in the chuck, the clamps to the work, and especially the double-sided tape.
where do I purchase the router bits you used in your video; I would want (1) each 1/4" bit-a 1/2" bit and an undersized 3/4" bit; great video will make my jig today; thank,s PATRICK; THESE APPEAR TO BE SPECIAL BITS??
Thank you for this video. Its really amazing. I had a question. Can we use a roundover bit to round plywood edges. I heard we should not use router bits on plywood as the resin ruins the blades. But you are using it flawlessly. Could you please make a video on plywood edge roundover with router if possible. Thank you
Search DIY plywood coffee table - herringbone pattern by oso diy
How do you use jigs like these if you need to do a dado towards the end of the board? Is there a way?
@D. Lindsay not necessarily. How about a dado just near the end of a board, let's say for a bottom shelf of a bookcase that is just a few inches from the floor. I ended up using a sacrificial board to partly rest the jig on.
Thanks for sharing this video. Is there any possibility to get a link for ordering the router bit. Thanks in advance. Francois
What kind of bit are you using?
any suggestions on where to find a 3/8' bit for this process? I can't fine one. Thanks
What is the name of the bit for the plywood so I can purchase one
A little late to the party here. If I had to guess it’s this Bosch bit: BOSCH 85674M
Does the width of the two jigs matter, and what size are the pieces you’re using? I’m getting ready to make the jigs with 12” wide, 1/2” thick MDF. Does that sound reasonable?
Thank you very much for the response and for the excellent and effective video!
I wouldn't say that the width doesn't matter. Seems like it should be at least as wide as half the width of the router base. If you make the jig pieces too thin, the router might not sit without rocking. Also, the larger the jig pieces are, the larger the surface area is in contact with the piece beneath (thus more friction holding them together), the less likely the jig is to slip out of position when cutting the dado -- especially if it's only being held down by a single clamp.
This is WAY easy and better than "#" style adjustable dado jig.
When you glue the wood piece into the joint you made, how do you ensure it sets at a perfect 90 degree angle? As you showed, there was still a few degrees of slack.
Why does my wood get chipped so hard when I try doing dadoes?
Making sure that you have a nice, sharp bit can help to reduce chip out. In this video it looks like he's using baltic birch plywood, which isn't as prone to tear out as normal ply. If you're finding it always chips out at the end of the cut, you could try placing a scrap piece of ply (the same thickness as the ply that you are dadoing) along the edge where you're routing to back it up.
How do I do this with a bit that doesn't have a bearing?
Bro ... did this guy switch up routers between the shots?
♪ Ma momma dun tol' me, to make dadoes for din-ner ♫
👍👍👍👍
I didn't know that Principal Skinner was skilled with a router.
You can fuck up your dadoes by doing to many passes. 1 pass check. 2 pass check.
X
The jerk hasn't mentioned the bearing on the bit yet
This last dato that he did was bullshit there was no need to chisel the rounded dato at all.All he had to do was go a little past the pencil mark and he would not have needed to chisel.
Harsh words for someone who is creating videos to help us out and has a good reason for his method.
You do it your way, he does it his way! Stop being a humanoid with limited vocabulary skills, or lack thereof. Crybaby!
I just woke up did it work?? Lol I appreciate the videos but my God Ben Stein says this guy is monotoned and boring "Bueller Bueller"