I like how simple this is compared to most others on RUclips. I’m not a cabinet maker or someone who even uses a router much at all. Just working on a one time project where I need to cut a few dados. So this will work great.
Exceptionally clean work. Simple is not easy, just looks that way. You, sir, have a gift and are gracious about sharing what you know with others. Much respect. Have a healthy, safe, and prosperous 2022.
I really enjoy your content. I found your channel last year as I was researching tread riser installation… Ive literally grown beyond what I knew I could be as a carpenter because of your channel (humbly). Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for the video. This approach assumes that you have a router bit that is the exact width of the plywood you are using. Usually, nominal 3/4 ply is slightly smaller that 3/4. Also, nominal 3/4" router bits are often not exactly sized.
I've been using a similar system for 40 years. However, I use a half bit. Make an accompanying stip of hardwood that adjust for with. 5/8 melamine, 19 mm plywood or whatever material I am dealing with.
Hi Spencer. Love this jig. I want to make one. I was given a bunch of 5/8" melamine boards in excellent condition. I can make this from the melamine? Thanks
Thanks for the video! Couple newbee questions. 1. Why do you use fine thread instead of course thread drywall screws? 2. Is it crazy to try to make the dado's with a jig and a circular saw? I have a small job and I would like to do a nice job and not just do butt joints. Thanks so much to you and anyone else who can offer a newer guys since tips and advice.
Great video. Only comment, how do you use all those nice tools and then run a metabo/htp brad nailer? I hated mine and replaced it, because it always jambed.
If you cut 3/4" dadoes, how do you get your plywood panels to fit snugly? Since 3/4" plywood is seldom, if ever, a full 3/4", don't your panels wobble in the dadoes?
Quick question about the bit and the dado - The link in the description is a for 3/4" bit, but in answer to another comment you said you used an undersized plywood bit. Which did you use for this project? If you used the undersized plywood bit, were the layout lines for the dado width slightly less than 3/4" to match the size of the bit? I'm only asking because I run into a lot of confusion about this. Thank you very much.
Honestly I can’t remember which I used. It depends on the plywood you are using as some is closer to a true 3/4 than others. Best bet is to own both, always run a test pass and check the fit before hitting the actual workpiece.
@@InsiderCarpentry Ok, thank you. Regardless of which one is used, are the layout lines for the width of the dado determined by the bit, or the actual material used? Thanks again.
how much would anyone charge for something like that I wonder, I have to make some storage boxes like those but I just don't know how to charge and I dont want to run the risk of charging to low any advice?
@Robert I believe its a whiteside 3/4 straight bit. But its possible I had an undersized 3/4 bit for plywood in it also. I can't remember for sure. But I'm pretty sure it was a whiteside straight mortising bit.
Was watching one of you videos the other day and you are using a barrel bit for solid wood edging on plywood. Whiteside manufactures this bit. I was trying to find that video again because I'm interested in purchasing one but I couldn't find it. Could you please help me out with a part number so that I could order off their website. I looked through their website but could not find it. Thank you very much
You probably have to order it directly from Collins Tool Company. You'll find it on their website. They sold out after I made that video. They may be backordered.
You cut the edge of the jig with the router bit. Then it's zero clearance and doesn't require a bearing. The "bearing" is the router pushing against the top piece of the plywood fence.
Can i ask why you didnt dado the frame into the box? Because it isnt a cabinet? And if you were making cabinets for a client would you use this method?
Instead of pocket screwing your nailers in try notching the tops of your vertical dividers then you can run one full piece screwing through the nailer into the plywood.Takes just as much time if not less than drilling all those pocket holes. Cheers
I wish I could work as fast as he does!!! It seems the faster i try to go the less gets done.. Not to mention headache 😣 and mistakes I gotta fix 🤑😥🤪 LoL 😅😂😃
I may be over thinking this, but ...Do you have any thoughts on using a solid nailing cleat vs individual ones. Just curious if the pocket holes are faster than notching each divider?
Kory Arrowsmith They’re cheap and they work. I always have kept a stock of major size drywall screws. So they’re just always available and that’s what I’ve gotten it the habit of reaching for.
Great and helpful vid! I’d love to know more about your bench and clamping system...that looks very efficient. I assume you built the table with the ratchet clamps in mind...did you follow plans, or if u made it up have you published them anywhere? Thanks!
Do you use a standard 3/4" bit or do you use a plywood specific 3/4" bit? The plywood specific bits are slightly smaller/thinner since most big box store's plywood isn't standard thickness?
Being new to your videos, you may have already shown how to make those guide jigs. They take just minutes. Indispensable when ripping 8' sheet goods with a skill saw.
@@InsiderCarpentry Yup, I just spent about 2 hours mucking around with the festool track and router trying to come up with a quick, repeatable system. This way is better. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you for sharing, I really don’t get the 17 dislikes and am dam sure non of them have a single tutorial video to share anything at all. There is more than one way to skin a cat and if it’s not your preferred method put up a video to show what you got.
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Sometimes if you don't predrill it will break the drywall screws. But I get lazy plenty of the time and don't predrill. When I do, I use a tapered drill bit.
Vertical panels, non-load bearing except the end panels! 1/8” depth with 2” fine threads/staples W/glue not to mention the back panel later makes total sense,reducing the amount of material extraction and blowout at the end of the router cut eliminating a sacrificial clamp-on. also setting it to the depth of the first ply/veneer thickness makes this a great build! Why, the Jig man! it’s all in the Jig... lol
Great chanel. You should save yourself lots of time. No need for dado's or glue if you are using screws! Looks like a small cabinet ...maybe a bench seat. Even if it was a tall cabinet same goes. Same reason I would have done what you did ...just staple 1/4" ply to the back of cabinet with staples. No need to lip out for back .,waste of time!
@@InsiderCarpentry Those new to carpentry may not realize the vast difference in sheet goods. If they are not buying quantities of high-end, cabinet grade, same type panels from the same source, they will find themselves with significantly different panel thickness. I currently have 4 "half-inch" panels of varying thickness in my shop. In which case an adjustable jig is a necessity.
Where is your eye & dust protection? I saw another of your videos where you emphasize knee protection, stressing how important it is to protect them for later life. Yes, your knees are important when you're older, but so are your eyes and lungs!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I like how simple this is compared to most others on RUclips. I’m not a cabinet maker or someone who even uses a router much at all. Just working on a one time project where I need to cut a few dados. So this will work great.
no gimmicks no comedy no goofyness-----just great videos and instructions thanx rick
Thumbs up! Very simple and quick to make! Put a 90-degree edge on that jig to set it square against your workpiece, and you could work even faster!
Great tip!
Yup , I had the same idea.
Exceptionally clean work. Simple is not easy, just looks that way. You, sir, have a gift and are gracious about sharing what you know with others. Much respect. Have a healthy, safe, and prosperous 2022.
We used to do the same thing for cutting plywood using a circular saw. Never thought about this for a router thanks for sharing! Great idea!
Tomorrow first thing I am going to make the guide/jig/thingy
Its so simple its brilliant
I really enjoy your content. I found your channel last year as I was researching tread riser installation… Ive literally grown beyond what I knew I could be as a carpenter because of your channel (humbly). Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Great to hear!
Best dado jig I have seen, not overly complicated but works perfectly,
I always learn something new and useful from your videos. Thank you.
Love your shop especially the hanging trim guns. 👍
Nice simple jig. Awesome
Great explanation! You made it look simple!
Great job explaining everything thank
Thanks for the inside info! Nice work
Love your channel. Thanks for the education.
Thanks dude. Perfect info for me on upcoming project.
Glad I could help!
Looks solid.
Exactly what I was looking for. Building my kitchen carcasses like this but with more centre support as granite worktops going in.
Great workflow Spencer, as usual 👍
Great and simple dado jig! Thanks a lot!
Like it simple is always better very nice
love watching your stuff man
God bless you dude , you are the man 👍👍👍👍👍👍❤❤
Thanks for the video. This approach assumes that you have a router bit that is the exact width of the plywood you are using. Usually, nominal 3/4 ply is slightly smaller that 3/4. Also, nominal 3/4" router bits are often not exactly sized.
Exactly, I just built a "cubby" unit out of 1/2" nominal ply and had to use a 1/4" bit and make two passes to get a clean tight fit.
I've been using a similar system for 40 years. However, I use a half bit. Make an accompanying stip of hardwood that adjust for with. 5/8 melamine, 19 mm plywood or whatever material I am dealing with.
Much easier than just a spacer board and a straight edge. Simple jig. But is clearly the way to go
great work
Hi Spencer. Love this jig. I want to make one. I was given a bunch of 5/8" melamine boards in excellent condition. I can make this from the melamine? Thanks
Thanks for the video! Couple newbee questions. 1. Why do you use fine thread instead of course thread drywall screws? 2. Is it crazy to try to make the dado's with a jig and a circular saw? I have a small job and I would like to do a nice job and not just do butt joints. Thanks so much to you and anyone else who can offer a newer guys since tips and advice.
I'm interested in this workbench and clamp system. Anyone have links/videos for that?
They are all over the Internet
Great info . Thank you !
any reason you wouldn't run a continuous hanger in the back instead of all the screws to fasten short pieces?
Awesome work as usual. I’m a finish carpenter in central Indiana, would love to shadow you for a day!!!
This was actually more about showing the cabinet than actually building the jig other than the quick explanation at the beginning of the video.
You can get an adapter to connect your router to a guide rail just like a track saw.
Ive been a journeyman carpenter for 10 years but id love to be your apprentice
Thanks dude, I learned something... keep it up!
Can you do a video on how to install drawers and doors on face frame cabinet
Nice ear and eye protection too.
After seeing this, you should be building builtin closets, media consoles for giant tv's to sit on, etc.
Nicely done! I noticed you didn't use a square at all when assembling. Does everything turn out square because of the dado's?
I use a similar jig with my circular saw for trimming door bottoms
Where do you find plywood that measures a full 3/4” these days?
Hi, nice video. Why do you use drywall screws for the glued dado joints instead of wood screws?
Because they are cheap and they work just fine.
@@InsiderCarpentry Fair enough! :-) Good tip!
Great video I love it.. do you got a plan for your dado jig ?
How would you make a matching panel, say in a book case, and ensure that the dados in one panel line up with the dados in the other panel?
Great video. Only comment, how do you use all those nice tools and then run a metabo/htp brad nailer? I hated mine and replaced it, because it always jambed.
Thanks for this video.
If you cut 3/4" dadoes, how do you get your plywood panels to fit snugly? Since 3/4" plywood is seldom, if ever, a full 3/4", don't your panels wobble in the dadoes?
I use undersized plywood bit set. They are sized about 1/32 under nominal sizes.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks!
Quick question about the bit and the dado - The link in the description is a for 3/4" bit, but in answer to another comment you said you used an undersized plywood bit. Which did you use for this project? If you used the undersized plywood bit, were the layout lines for the dado width slightly less than 3/4" to match the size of the bit? I'm only asking because I run into a lot of confusion about this. Thank you very much.
Honestly I can’t remember which I used. It depends on the plywood you are using as some is closer to a true 3/4 than others. Best bet is to own both, always run a test pass and check the fit before hitting the actual workpiece.
@@InsiderCarpentry Ok, thank you. Regardless of which one is used, are the layout lines for the width of the dado determined by the bit, or the actual material used? Thanks again.
Hi.....just wondering what clamps you’re using in this video. Thanks!
They are festool ratchet clamps.
Thanks for the reply!
what wood type are you using please? what unit is that for, do not think that for a kitchen?
Good job. DUDE WHERE ARE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES ?
Lol. This is the method he uses. This should be the only method anyone uses. Kids smart.
how much would anyone charge for something like that I wonder, I have to make some storage boxes like those but I just don't know how to charge and I dont want to run the risk of charging to low any advice?
I usually do a 1/4 inch dado... is it safe to start using an 1/8 inch strength wise? thank you
More often than not I just butt joint, glue, and screw. So I'd say yes.
Thanks again. Never mind, just watched your face frame video. [What did you use for face frame?] TY
Thanks will tray it this night on m'y project and i will Côme back to you
What bit are you using?
@Robert I believe its a whiteside 3/4 straight bit. But its possible I had an undersized 3/4 bit for plywood in it also. I can't remember for sure. But I'm pretty sure it was a whiteside straight mortising bit.
I like this idea. I'm guessing you need to make different jigs for different bit widths right? Like 3/4 1/4, etc...
For a quick and solid rail on the back, make it as one piece and cut for the rail on the walls.
Haha, I was about to comment the exact same thing. 😂
Was watching one of you videos the other day and you are using a barrel bit for solid wood edging on plywood. Whiteside manufactures this bit. I was trying to find that video again because I'm interested in purchasing one but I couldn't find it. Could you please help me out with a part number so that I could order off their website. I looked through their website but could not find it. Thank you very much
You probably have to order it directly from Collins Tool Company. You'll find it on their website. They sold out after I made that video. They may be backordered.
So how is the bit not cutting into your jig as you’re doing a pass? Didn’t see a guide bushings on your router, or a bearing?
You cut the edge of the jig with the router bit. Then it's zero clearance and doesn't require a bearing. The "bearing" is the router pushing against the top piece of the plywood fence.
Thank you
Can i ask why you didnt dado the frame into the box? Because it isnt a cabinet? And if you were making cabinets for a client would you use this method?
Buen video gracias...
De nada.
Wow! You have dados, glue, staples and screws. I've always done dados, glue and staples. Or just staples and screws. That seems like over kill.
Instead of pocket screwing your nailers in try notching the tops of your vertical dividers then you can run one full piece screwing through the nailer into the plywood.Takes just as much time if not less than drilling all those pocket holes. Cheers
I wish I could work as fast as he does!!!
It seems the faster i try to go the less gets done..
Not to mention headache 😣 and mistakes I gotta fix 🤑😥🤪
LoL 😅😂😃
Traky boy gotta learn your form and proper steps first. Speed comes later when you stop worrying about it. I used to be in the same boat.
New 2 U. Great vids bro!
why do you use fine thread screws instead of coarse thread screws?
Splits plywood end grain less.
I was wondering what gauge staples you were using?
Love your work! You always sound so enthused lol ole mono tone
It’s a gift. 👍
Is that solid wood for your nailer strip? If so do you prefer that?
I may be over thinking this, but ...Do you have any thoughts on using a solid nailing cleat vs individual ones. Just curious if the pocket holes are faster than notching each divider?
This is simple enought for a noob like me. Thanks. Totally in need of PPE, though
You mentioned at the end this is for your stain grade built-in. Anything different for paint grade?
I just do a butt joint with pocket screws for paint grade it works well and is very efficient.
What about undersized plywood? Don’t your 3/4” dados end up too wide?
When needed I use an undersized plywood bit.
did not hear what size router bit
Nice video. What size bit do you use for the 3/4" plywood. Thanks
I have the same question, I have used 3/4, undersized 3/4 and have never had good luck with a great fitting dado.
Why do you use the fine thread drywall screws instead of standard wood screws?
Kory Arrowsmith They’re cheap and they work. I always have kept a stock of major size drywall screws. So they’re just always available and that’s what I’ve gotten it the habit of reaching for.
@@InsiderCarpentry Don't you find they break now and again? They're a lot more brittle than standard screws.
Is 1/8” recommended for dados like this or could you potentially go deeper for added strength?
You could go deeper but the strength gain would be pretty marginal.
Insider Carpentry thanks!
Great and helpful vid! I’d love to know more about your bench and clamping system...that looks very efficient.
I assume you built the table with the ratchet clamps in mind...did you follow plans, or if u made it up have you published them anywhere? Thanks!
It is what is called a "paulk workbench". Lots of youtube videos on these setups.
Do you use a standard 3/4" bit or do you use a plywood specific 3/4" bit? The plywood specific bits are slightly smaller/thinner since most big box store's plywood isn't standard thickness?
Plywood bit.
Being new to your videos, you may have already shown how to make those guide jigs. They take just minutes. Indispensable when ripping 8' sheet goods with a skill saw.
Great video man! What type of earbuds do you use?
prf I think they are LG HBS-900. Amazing sound quality. 👍
Have you used a festool router and guide rail for dados? Your jig looks faster for positioning and setup.
Jim Nelson One time I think. After I saw this way of doing it I haven’t went back to anything else.
@@InsiderCarpentry Yup, I just spent about 2 hours mucking around with the festool track and router trying to come up with a quick, repeatable system. This way is better. Thanks for the vid!
3/4” oak plywood purebond?
question why did you assemble with drywall screws
Cheap and readily available. No one see them.
Thank you for sharing, I really don’t get the 17 dislikes and am dam sure non of them have a single tutorial video to share anything at all. There is more than one way to skin a cat and if it’s not your preferred method put up a video to show what you got.
brother you do some fantastic work. I wouldn't mind helping you out with a job.. for free just to gain knowledge.
Great work man! Do you predrill before the drywall screws or do you just drive them in?
Very good tutorial anyway!
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. Sometimes if you don't predrill it will break the drywall screws. But I get lazy plenty of the time and don't predrill. When I do, I use a tapered drill bit.
@@InsiderCarpentry keep a bar of soap handy and scrape the threads of the screws across it - it will eliminate any need for pre drilling...
@@robbob4872 good tip rob he could also use wood screws and save the "drywall" screws for drywall.
What do you use for bench-top clamps ?
I use the festool clamps. The ones that are green and ratchet down.
The clamps when using the router.
Like you nail-cross logo. Praise God!
Thanks. It’s a good reminder for me to keep first things first. 👍
Wow I’ve way over killing the depth of my dados
Vertical panels, non-load bearing except the end panels! 1/8” depth with 2” fine threads/staples W/glue not to mention the back panel later makes total sense,reducing the amount of material extraction and blowout at the end of the router cut eliminating a sacrificial clamp-on. also setting it to the depth of the first ply/veneer thickness makes this a great build! Why, the Jig man! it’s all in the Jig... lol
Great chanel. You should save yourself lots of time. No need for dado's or glue if you are using screws! Looks like a small cabinet ...maybe a bench seat. Even if it was a tall cabinet same goes. Same reason I would have done what you did ...just staple 1/4" ply to the back of cabinet with staples. No need to lip out for back .,waste of time!
This is fine if your bit ix EXACTLY the width of you stock, which almost never happens.
This is an undersized plywood bit which works great with most plywood.
@@InsiderCarpentry Those new to carpentry may not realize the vast difference in sheet goods. If they are not buying quantities of high-end, cabinet grade, same type panels from the same source, they will find themselves with significantly different panel thickness. I currently have 4 "half-inch" panels of varying thickness in my shop. In which case an adjustable jig is a necessity.
Im in
finished product has merit but operator is not very safety concious
Where is your eye & dust protection? I saw another of your videos where you emphasize knee protection, stressing how important it is to protect them for later life. Yes, your knees are important when you're older, but so are your eyes and lungs!
Great work! Please get yourself some safety glasses and a respirator and hearing protection.