Absolutely! It’s great how adaptable that method is. Just a simple adjustment can make it work for different widths, saving time and hassle. Have you tried it out on any specific projects?
Great method, the reference block. I usually use a table saw or circular saw to hog out most of the waste first to save the battery and bearings on the router. I leave thin strips the width of the saw blade to support the router base if the base is not wide enough to span the joint.
1:00 If the radius changes, it's not much use. According to another RUclipsr (he was talking about bigger routers), if you use the flat part of the base to guide the router, you risk a bump twisting the router and sending off course.
Thank you. I wish I would have used my router when I had to make half-lap joints when I built a large gate. I used my drop saw, and could never get a clean finish. Have liked and subbed mate - keep up the good work
Could you potentially show how to do this but with an angled lap joint? I want to do a corner lap and a t lap but at an angle other than 90 degrees. Thanks for ur video
Thanks this is such a good video Justin. I think you can use the wood as a spacer to cut the spacer with the router if you follow me, so long as the edges are butted against something. Just thinking it is easier to cut the spacer without measuring if possible, that is certainly a lesson I have learnt the hard way with woodworking!
It just occurred to me that you could find the center quicker using the 45-deg side of the square. Just draw a line then flip the square over and repeat.
You can do this, depending on the application. It's decently strong. I did it on a jig I made of MDF and the lap wasn't even very long, like 1" or so. When I finally threw it out I couldn't get it to break at the joint. The process of cutting it is no different than any other half lap. Set your bit to half the thickness of the material and just cut out the ends of each board. a 45 degree scarf joint is basically a miter joint, which is also decently strong and faster to do. I would say the half lap is going to be stronger IF it's a long lap. If it's going to be a 1" lap then might as well scarf it. It's basically about glue surface area. You could also floating tenon the pieces together if you can't afford to lose any length.
Now I understand how the British Empire collapsed. You were all diddling around with your speed squares trying to make lap joints that could have been done in two minutes on the table saw. Great video though!
Brilliant no mucking around with making jigs this method can work for various widths of timber as well just by changing one reference point
Cool man 👍
I would be tempted to use a knife to define/mark the joint that might minimize the tear out.
Absolutely! It’s great how adaptable that method is. Just a simple adjustment can make it work for different widths, saving time and hassle. Have you tried it out on any specific projects?
Great inspiration, thank you 🙏
Great method, the reference block. I usually use a table saw or circular saw to hog out most of the waste first to save the battery and bearings on the router. I leave thin strips the width of the saw blade to support the router base if the base is not wide enough to span the joint.
Stop messing about, tenon saw in vice dine.
1:00 If the radius changes, it's not much use.
According to another RUclipsr (he was talking about bigger routers), if you use the flat part of the base to guide the router, you risk a bump twisting the router and sending off course.
Thank you. I wish I would have used my router when I had to make half-lap joints when I built a large gate. I used my drop saw, and could never get a clean finish. Have liked and subbed mate - keep up the good work
@@nibblerau1879 Thank you so much 👍
Brilliant!
Could you potentially show how to do this but with an angled lap joint? I want to do a corner lap and a t lap but at an angle other than 90 degrees.
Thanks for ur video
Brilliant thanks for your knowledge
Thanks this is such a good video Justin. I think you can use the wood as a spacer to cut the spacer with the router if you follow me, so long as the edges are butted against something. Just thinking it is easier to cut the spacer without measuring if possible, that is certainly a lesson I have learnt the hard way with woodworking!
Excellent video 👌
@@thewoodjunki thank you
Excellent!
@@johndevilbiss6607 👌
Nice
Great idea
👌
It just occurred to me that you could find the center quicker using the 45-deg side of the square. Just draw a line then flip the square over and repeat.
@@severedmetal Nice one
@@severedmetal it just occurred, I give up, pop it in vice done.
What type of router bit did you use?
@@DawnWinters-g9w a twin straight flute 12mm bit 👌
So, what bit are you using ? Straight cut 2 flute ?
@xdavis18 Yes, it's a straight 2 flute bit
What about a lap joint from butt to butt without corner. Like to make a longer piece?
Nice thought, but it wouldn't be very strong. A scarf joint is used to lengthen a piece of timber.
You can do this, depending on the application. It's decently strong. I did it on a jig I made of MDF and the lap wasn't even very long, like 1" or so. When I finally threw it out I couldn't get it to break at the joint. The process of cutting it is no different than any other half lap. Set your bit to half the thickness of the material and just cut out the ends of each board.
a 45 degree scarf joint is basically a miter joint, which is also decently strong and faster to do. I would say the half lap is going to be stronger IF it's a long lap. If it's going to be a 1" lap then might as well scarf it. It's basically about glue surface area. You could also floating tenon the pieces together if you can't afford to lose any length.
This method reminds me of ‘new math’.
Safety glasses?
Now I understand how the British Empire collapsed. You were all diddling around with your speed squares trying to make lap joints that could have been done in two minutes on the table saw. Great video though!
Couldn’t you find a bigger square?