By far the best video on RUclips. I love how detailed you were with the installation. I don’t believe my installer spend that much time on detail. Well done my friend.
Thanks for the vid...excellent work! Installers could learn a lot from you. I especially like the part of the installation of the rail supports where u took ur time and ground out the roofing tiles.
Hello You This is a very professional video I do solar system accessories, your installation video is very comprehensive, let me learn a lot. I hope I can make videos like yours in the future, thank you
Very nice work! I just finished installing 6.8kw roof top on a concrete tile roof. Good advice not to use zip ties. And to use EMT, not pvc conduit. Ironridge mounts may not be the cheapest but they are certainly very good quality and worth the price imo. Complete with Engineer Calcs and the Ironridge design tool is very helpful perfect for diy'er. I used xr100 rails so the tile hooks could be spaced 6ft where live. One thing to note, the UFO panel mount clamps are spec'd to be tightened at 80 inch lbs. Others already mentioned wire nuts.
great vid and the details are excellent...you'll build a nice big channel if you keep posting vids like this...would love to see a simple grid tie with growatt MIN6000 that is very DIY friendly...cheers!
Great video. Question: how did you wire the main grid meter to the Sol Ark? That’s the part I didn’t understand. Did you go from Meter to breaker on the right side to the inverter? Would appreciate any more info on that wiring- thanks.
Wiring before installation: Meter -> MainServicePanel(MSP) with 90A breaker -> SubPanel -> Loads After: Meter -> MSP with 90A breaker -> Solark -> AC Disconnect -> SubPanel -> Loads
Isn’t there some phase interference when DC wires are so close to AC wires? I’ve run into this before. Has to place a lot of aluminum foil insulation in between the two wires to avoid interference.
Great attention to detail! I noticed on the junction box under the last panel you used wire nuts. Have you thought about using a mechanical splice, split bolt, or terminal blocks instead?
Great details. This is the best install vid I've watched so far and I've watched quite a few preparing for my own install in CA. The only questions I have are 1. why install the AC disconnect when the main breaker is upstream? Is a disconnect code throughout CA? and 2. why not swap out the MSP for something with more amps as 90 amps seems small for a house that size. Thanks in advance and again really good job on the videography.
The main breaker will cut the power before Sol-Ark, but with batteries, it will remain energized. Code is required to have AC disconnect/rapid shutdown, here is why this box is installed (which is expensive..)
@@SolarEngineering OK Thx, that's what I thought. So is it correct to say that current code will not allow you to rely on the ac breakers within the Solark 15k-- as a disconnect to the subpanel.
@@Buxton252 In my opinion it should qualify, but in areas where I did installs, the external disconnect is required. You could check with your local city to see if it will work.
Another excellent video! Question, what gauge wires (+ & -) for the array did you use for the serial connections? Did you purchase a crimping kit for the mc4 connectors? Thanks!
Thanks! On the roof I'm using PV wire (to run into junction box), from JB to inverter THWN-2 wire. All 12AWG wires. Crimping tool: Rennsteig 624 1301 3 RT MC4 Tool w/Die Set AWG 12/10/8
@@SolarEngineering Did you at all consider the XW Pro? I'm wondering if you did and what was the compelling reason to use Sol-Ark 15k instead. I'm weighing out the 2 inverters and so far I'm leaning Sol-Ark 15k
I noticed that you didn't install a bypass from the grid input to the Sol-Ark, but some other Sol-Ark 15K installers do. Can you tell me your reasoning for just installing a shut off and not a bypass? Thank you, great video!
I think I'll probably install a Polaris tap in-line with the feed going into the Sol-Ark grid, and in the event of needing to bypass I'll easily be able to add a short jumper back to the load / house (with the Sol-Ark load breaker off of course) - what do you think? @@SolarEngineering
Great video. I installed my own panels and Solark 15K very similar to this. The iron ridge racking is a great system and saved a lot of time! My 15K has been running for about 9 months now and I’m still amazed at what it can do! One question. It looks like your AC disconnect stops power between your inverter and loads panel. I know code requirements can differ depending on location, but usually the AC disconnect is placed between your Meter and the inverter. Are you sure you have this correct? In my area at least, the purpose is so a lineman from the electric company can flip that big lever to be positive that your system won’t feed power to the grid while they are doing repairs. I thought this was the case just about everywhere.
Company that I used to generate package did put AC disconnect after Sol-Ark, but I think you are right. Additionally, I'll install rapid shutdown button, when batteries going to be installed. So system will have main breaker in main panel as disconnect + button + lever.
I just had my system installed. AC disconnect is between my inverter and loads panel which also disconnects it from the utility meter since that's next upstream. It must be that way in California anyways...it is so firemen and first responders can switch it off when they need to ensure your house is deenergized before they start dousing it with water during a fire....we also have rapid shutdown requirements.
Great video, a nice and clean installation! How did you handle the grounding of the solar racking and modules? It looks like you ran the ground wire back to the inverter, if not, the metal conduit appears to be bonded to the wireway and inverter. I'm struggeling to understand code compliance, and the following language taken from the inverters installation manual "Solar PV+/PV- are UNGROUNDED. Note, you may ground PV Racking/Mounts, but doing so directly to the Sol-Ark will likely result in damage in the case of a direct lightning strike to the PV array. "
@@SolarEngineering I read the installation manual for the Sol-Ark 15k. In the instructions, there's a warning from Sol-Ark. Here's a cut and paste of the warning "Solar PV+/PV- are UNGROUNDED. Note, you may ground PV Racking/Mounts, but doing so directly to the Sol-Ark will likely result in damage in the case of a direct lightning strike to the PV array. " If the AHJ and NEC require grounding, as in the video, there's nothing you can do about it. Maybe Sol-Ark is simply protecting itself in the event of a lightning strike. Thanks again!
it's possible, but might require a lot of rewiring. Depends on the load center model. If it possible to install a lug kit between the main breaker and load busbar, then it could be done easier.
Thanks! About 7 years with current rates. It's a straight calculation based on system production (not counting: power-outages, peak-shaving, increased rates, etc)
You do good quality work. Good to see the hybrid inverter being used. Did you have to use 2/0 CU SER as the SolArk’s breaker is fixed at 200A while your service breaker is 90A? Are you going to film the battery installation for this as well?
Great video. Two questions, How did you decide on which solar company to use and how much was the total cost. I’m really thinking about buying my own solar array and I’m wondering which company is the best to use for a DIY project?
@@jls41nj1 panels by the price/availability and checked that company is on market for some time. Inverter - it has a lot of features, not sure if anyone else has similar functionality. Racking - is a well-known reliable brand.
Nice setup. Yes, when you put in the labour and chase pricing you will get a much better price and result. Curious are you located in the US? I noticed the roof tiles - concrete are they? Never seen that style before. Here in Australia we generally find concrete roof tiles moulded to look like ceramic tiles. I'm not a roofer, but the plain rectangular look like they are much easier to work with and the look pretty good!
I live close to San Francisco, California. Yeah, roof is concrete tiles (light version of concrete), kind of brittle tiles. We have about 70% of asphalt shingles roofs here and about 30% tiles (like clay, concrete, etc). Thanks for the feedback.
Good system, but this prices is immense... i dont know how much electricity cost in your region but if $0.3 its 6 years of 1000kwh per month. And it without batteries.
@@SolarEngineering yep backup is even more important but depends on house electricity consumption it better to install 20+ kWh batteries array and it's again additional $8000+
You don't do this to save money. This is for when people complain "what happens when everyone turns on their Air Con unit (or plugs in Electric Vehicle to recharge) at the same time? We're all going to melt into a puddle and the whole world will break down. Anarchy! It cannot be done." Well, you just do this. It's not difficult, you pay the money get the stuff and there you go, energy independence. At best you break even cost-wise and at worst you have energy independence which is *priceless*
You can now add as much storage as you want using cheap second hand EV batteries with BMS. No one needs to know. I would have used much cheaper Schneider XW6848 Pro inverter instead of expensive Solark. Charge controllers could have been Victron. I don't like all-in-one inverters because if it fails and needs to be shipped back you have no power and no transfer switch. And they are heavy.
So... $26,000 USD for this system... 6.7w solar array and 15k battery bank. So my local guy quoting me $40k CAD for a 10k solar array and a 13.5k battery bank is reasonable lol
Thanks, I was on the fence... and was thinking of doing it my self but for this price; I'll go with the professional install. Not to mention our government provides a $5600 free grant, plus 0% financing for your solar project for 10 years til payback.@@SolarEngineering
Гарно зроблено. Є чому повчитися! Дякую! По ингліш акценту одразу видно хто звідки. p.s. Дозволяється одному працювати? p.p.s. Ще додам, що у нас по цінам приблизно. Буду на наступному тижні ставити товаришу. Візьму тільки за роботу, тому собівартість рахую обладнання. Батарейка на 16кВт(48В) буде коштувати приблизно 1500 евро Інвертор Дея трифазна на 12кВт десь 2200Евро Панелі на 15кВт десь 1400 евро Електрика різна(щити, пзіп, автомати все ETI ) з купою проводів десь до 1000 евро Загалом собівартість обладнання вийде не більш ніж 6500евро за все, з підключенням до "зеленого" таріфу. Ну якщо купувати та замовляти це на монтажній конторі то десь до 10 вийде.
By far the best video on RUclips. I love how detailed you were with the installation. I don’t believe my installer spend that much time on detail. Well done my friend.
thanks for the feedback.
This is the most thorough whole install video i have come across. Very informative. thank you so much!
Thanks for the vid...excellent work! Installers could learn a lot from you. I especially like the part of the installation of the rail supports where u took ur time and ground out the roofing tiles.
thanks!
Outstanding video, description along the way, and pricing summary! keep it up.
Much appreciated!
Made me glad I had shingles on my garage. Concrete tiles look 👀 like a royal PITA.
Nice work.
Thanks 👍
I had shingles once; not fun.
Hello You This is a very professional video I do solar system accessories, your installation video is very comprehensive, let me learn a lot. I hope I can make videos like yours in the future, thank you
Thanks for including cost/labor breakdown.
my pleasure
That 6AWG is like wrestling a tiger!!!
This is very nice, well explained. We will wait for battery installation
Congratulations. Like everything you do, beautiful job, outstanding workmanship! Thank you for sharing this.
thanks for the feedback!
I love the detailing. Welldone chief
Great job and excellent explanation! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! Very detailed and informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Well explained as usual.. you have come a long way from using the GTIL2s. Nicely done
oh GTILs.... it was "fun" to make it work :)
Very nice work! I just finished installing 6.8kw roof top on a concrete tile roof. Good advice not to use zip ties. And to use EMT, not pvc conduit. Ironridge mounts may not be the cheapest but they are certainly very good quality and worth the price imo. Complete with Engineer Calcs and the Ironridge design tool is very helpful perfect for diy'er. I used xr100 rails so the tile hooks could be spaced 6ft where live. One thing to note, the UFO panel mount clamps are spec'd to be tightened at 80 inch lbs. Others already mentioned wire nuts.
thanks for the feedback!
great vid and the details are excellent...you'll build a nice big channel if you keep posting vids like this...would love to see a simple grid tie with growatt MIN6000 that is very DIY friendly...cheers!
thanks.
Correct me, but I think growatt is not UL certified. So I cannot use it here in California
That looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the feedback
Oh, this is the installation before the batteries... 😎😎😎
Great video. Question: how did you wire the main grid meter to the Sol Ark? That’s the part I didn’t understand. Did you go from Meter to breaker on the right side to the inverter? Would appreciate any more info on that wiring- thanks.
Wiring before installation: Meter -> MainServicePanel(MSP) with 90A breaker -> SubPanel -> Loads
After: Meter -> MSP with 90A breaker -> Solark -> AC Disconnect -> SubPanel -> Loads
Perfect / thank you. Really nice install.
Isn’t there some phase interference when DC wires are so close to AC wires? I’ve run into this before. Has to place a lot of aluminum foil insulation in between the two wires to avoid interference.
Great attention to detail! I noticed on the junction box under the last panel you used wire nuts. Have you thought about using a mechanical splice, split bolt, or terminal blocks instead?
thanks, yeah terminal blocks would work. got few comments here that it's better not to use wire nuts for dc.
Great details. This is the best install vid I've watched so far and I've watched quite a few preparing for my own install in CA. The only questions I have are 1. why install the AC disconnect when the main breaker is upstream? Is a disconnect code throughout CA? and 2. why not swap out the MSP for something with more amps as 90 amps seems small for a house that size. Thanks in advance and again really good job on the videography.
The main breaker will cut the power before Sol-Ark, but with batteries, it will remain energized. Code is required to have AC disconnect/rapid shutdown, here is why this box is installed (which is expensive..)
and thanks for the feedback
@@SolarEngineering OK Thx, that's what I thought. So is it correct to say that current code will not allow you to rely on the ac breakers within the Solark 15k-- as a disconnect to the subpanel.
@@Buxton252 In my opinion it should qualify, but in areas where I did installs, the external disconnect is required. You could check with your local city to see if it will work.
Another excellent video! Question, what gauge wires (+ & -) for the array did you use for the serial connections? Did you purchase a crimping kit for the mc4 connectors? Thanks!
Thanks! On the roof I'm using PV wire (to run into junction box), from JB to inverter THWN-2 wire. All 12AWG wires.
Crimping tool: Rennsteig 624 1301 3 RT MC4 Tool w/Die Set AWG 12/10/8
@@SolarEngineering Did you at all consider the XW Pro? I'm wondering if you did and what was the compelling reason to use Sol-Ark 15k instead. I'm weighing out the 2 inverters and so far I'm leaning Sol-Ark 15k
I need to read more about XW, don't know much details about it
Thank you for sharing, excellent installation.
my pleasure
I noticed that you didn't install a bypass from the grid input to the Sol-Ark, but some other Sol-Ark 15K installers do. Can you tell me your reasoning for just installing a shut off and not a bypass? Thank you, great video!
Bypass is optional, just need to run more wires. In case inverter needs to be serviced, then could just install temp junction box and bypass there.
I think I'll probably install a Polaris tap in-line with the feed going into the Sol-Ark grid, and in the event of needing to bypass I'll easily be able to add a short jumper back to the load / house (with the Sol-Ark load breaker off of course) - what do you think?
@@SolarEngineering
@@test893 yeah that's going to work as well.
Great video. I installed my own panels and Solark 15K very similar to this. The iron ridge racking is a great system and saved a lot of time! My 15K has been running for about 9 months now and I’m still amazed at what it can do!
One question. It looks like your AC disconnect stops power between your inverter and loads panel. I know code requirements can differ depending on location, but usually the AC disconnect is placed between your Meter and the inverter. Are you sure you have this correct? In my area at least, the purpose is so a lineman from the electric company can flip that big lever to be positive that your system won’t feed power to the grid while they are doing repairs. I thought this was the case just about everywhere.
Company that I used to generate package did put AC disconnect after Sol-Ark, but I think you are right.
Additionally, I'll install rapid shutdown button, when batteries going to be installed.
So system will have main breaker in main panel as disconnect + button + lever.
I just had my system installed. AC disconnect is between my inverter and loads panel which also disconnects it from the utility meter since that's next upstream. It must be that way in California anyways...it is so firemen and first responders can switch it off when they need to ensure your house is deenergized before they start dousing it with water during a fire....we also have rapid shutdown requirements.
Wow what a well done video
Thank you kindly
Great video and breakdown... thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great job! Good for you!
Thank you!
Great video, a nice and clean installation! How did you handle the grounding of the solar racking and modules? It looks like you ran the ground wire back to the inverter, if not, the metal conduit appears to be bonded to the wireway and inverter. I'm struggeling to understand code compliance, and the following language taken from the inverters installation manual "Solar PV+/PV- are UNGROUNDED. Note, you may ground PV Racking/Mounts, but doing so directly to the Sol-Ark will likely result in damage in the case of a direct lightning strike to the PV array. "
running 6AWG bare copper trough rails 5:12, in junction box switching to 8AWG green wire 19:20, and then going into main panel.
@@SolarEngineering Isn't that exactly what Sol-Ark is warning against?
@@billparsons7732 if you can provide more explanation, you'll get a more accurate answer.
@@SolarEngineering I read the installation manual for the Sol-Ark 15k. In the instructions, there's a warning from Sol-Ark. Here's a cut and paste of the warning "Solar PV+/PV- are UNGROUNDED. Note, you may ground PV Racking/Mounts, but doing so directly to the Sol-Ark will likely result in damage in the case of a direct lightning strike to the PV array. "
If the AHJ and NEC require grounding, as in the video, there's nothing you can do about it. Maybe Sol-Ark is simply protecting itself in the event of a lightning strike. Thanks again!
@@billparsons7732 might be, I'd contact them to ask for clarification...
Is there a way to connect the Sol Ark 15k to power the whole house using a All In One” (combination meter/breaker) service panel?
it's possible, but might require a lot of rewiring. Depends on the load center model.
If it possible to install a lug kit between the main breaker and load busbar, then it could be done easier.
looks great. Only thing I can suggest is never use wire nuts on dc.
thanks, what is your recommendation?
They make a dc rated wire nut.
Bravo! I wish I could become your apprentice.
Very cool! Thanks for the details.
Thanks for watching!
отличная работа !
спасибо!
Awesome install!! Thanks. Have you calculated Return On Investment for your system?
Thanks!
About 7 years with current rates.
It's a straight calculation based on system production (not counting: power-outages, peak-shaving, increased rates, etc)
You do good quality work. Good to see the hybrid inverter being used.
Did you have to use 2/0 CU SER as the SolArk’s breaker is fixed at 200A while your service breaker is 90A?
Are you going to film the battery installation for this as well?
thanks.
yes, for 200A need to se 2/0 CU or 4/0 AL.
video with batteries will be posted.
Are the wire clips Stainless Steel and can they be purchased from Amazon?
using this one: amzn.to/3LOOwxt
@@SolarEngineering Thank you. I just ordered them!
Great video. Two questions, How did you decide on which solar company to use and how much was the total cost. I’m really thinking about buying my own solar array and I’m wondering which company is the best to use for a DIY project?
Hi, by solar company do you mean brand of equipment or something else?
Equipment- panels ect
@@jls41nj1 panels by the price/availability and checked that company is on market for some time.
Inverter - it has a lot of features, not sure if anyone else has similar functionality.
Racking - is a well-known reliable brand.
Gotcha. Thanks for the advice
Gotcha. Thanks for the advice
Where are you located? Very informative ... .thanks
Bay Area, CA
Whats the size of the down conductors from the roof ? Looks quite small to me
12AWG, max current is about 12.8 Amps
@@SolarEngineering ah OK = 4mm2. It looked way thinner in the video. Nvm
Nice setup. Yes, when you put in the labour and chase pricing you will get a much better price and result.
Curious are you located in the US?
I noticed the roof tiles - concrete are they? Never seen that style before. Here in Australia we generally find concrete roof tiles moulded to look like ceramic tiles. I'm not a roofer, but the plain rectangular look like they are much easier to work with and the look pretty good!
I live close to San Francisco, California.
Yeah, roof is concrete tiles (light version of concrete), kind of brittle tiles.
We have about 70% of asphalt shingles roofs here and about 30% tiles (like clay, concrete, etc).
Thanks for the feedback.
What rack systems can be installed on Snap lock metal Roofs without drilling holes into the panels? Thanks!
Great Video!
thanks!
I’m planning this summer add sol ark and batteries to my existing solar system,how I can contact with you,I live in Fresno.Thanks
Hi, Fresno is too far from me, I'm located in Bay Area.
can i call you for some advice? or i can give you my phone when you are available can you call?Thanks
nice work !!
Thanks!
Let me speak from my heart... 😂
Да, акцент чисто русский :)
Класно получилось!
спасибо!
Good system, but this prices is immense... i dont know how much electricity cost in your region but if $0.3 its 6 years of 1000kwh per month. And it without batteries.
$0.38/kwh and raising.
Full house backup is a big plus to this system.
@@SolarEngineering yep backup is even more important but depends on house electricity consumption it better to install 20+ kWh batteries array and it's again additional $8000+
You don't do this to save money. This is for when people complain "what happens when everyone turns on their Air Con unit (or plugs in Electric Vehicle to recharge) at the same time? We're all going to melt into a puddle and the whole world will break down. Anarchy! It cannot be done." Well, you just do this. It's not difficult, you pay the money get the stuff and there you go, energy independence. At best you break even cost-wise and at worst you have energy independence which is *priceless*
That tree needs to come down ^^ it shadows the panels.
yeah, will see how it's affecting production
You can now add as much storage as you want using cheap second hand EV batteries with BMS. No one needs to know. I would have used much cheaper Schneider XW6848 Pro inverter instead of expensive Solark. Charge controllers could have been Victron. I don't like all-in-one inverters because if it fails and needs to be shipped back you have no power and no transfer switch. And they are heavy.
So... $26,000 USD for this system... 6.7w solar array and 15k battery bank. So my local guy quoting me $40k CAD for a 10k solar array and a 13.5k battery bank is reasonable lol
yes, it's a good price
Thanks, I was on the fence... and was thinking of doing it my self but for this price; I'll go with the professional install. Not to mention our government provides a $5600 free grant, plus 0% financing for your solar project for 10 years til payback.@@SolarEngineering
Solar what? Solar is an adjective.
You must NOT use wire nuts to join DC cables, they are fire hazard !
what is the proper connection?
@@SolarEngineering ruclips.net/video/NgYvF5FBOJo/видео.html
@@SolarEngineering ruclips.net/video/LvHBGu1ZA7s/видео.html
@@SolarEngineering ruclips.net/video/THCmCtPrYns/видео.html
@@SolarEngineering PDB = power distribution block . Wire nuts are no no .
Гарно зроблено. Є чому повчитися! Дякую!
По ингліш акценту одразу видно хто звідки.
p.s. Дозволяється одному працювати?
p.p.s. Ще додам, що у нас по цінам приблизно. Буду на наступному тижні ставити товаришу.
Візьму тільки за роботу, тому собівартість рахую обладнання.
Батарейка на 16кВт(48В) буде коштувати приблизно 1500 евро
Інвертор Дея трифазна на 12кВт десь 2200Евро
Панелі на 15кВт десь 1400 евро
Електрика різна(щити, пзіп, автомати все ETI ) з купою проводів десь до 1000 евро
Загалом собівартість обладнання вийде не більш ніж 6500евро за все, з підключенням до "зеленого" таріфу.
Ну якщо купувати та замовляти це на монтажній конторі то десь до 10 вийде.