The focus stack setting on the R5 works awesome. You still have to be careful that you focus just a touch into the foreground for the starting point. Sometimes it’s hard with round subjects to judge this. Great channel it’s a pleasure to view. Thank you.
Very interesting Andrew ! I have doing doing photography for about 10 years now . I have gone from a Rebel 3TI ,to a 6D and now the EOS R . I have purchased The RF 100mm F2.8 macro. I am trying to learn Macro photography. I noticed something that you said about focus stacking reminded me of conventual Photography . In conventual photography , you can shoot wildlife, sports, portraits, landscape ,commercial, product photography and on and on. Having said all that , could we said that in the world of macro , you could break macro into different types of macro ? In my conventual photography ,I shoot static subjects Landscape, architecture, automobiles etc. I believe one could drive themselves crazy trying to shoot all types of macro photography.
For home/studio photography, I've found a focus bracketing rail to be really useful. A bit tedious to adjust, take photo, adjust, take photo etc but it does the job!
Great to the point tutorial with different techniques. I am about to get a Focusing Rail for focus stacking. What is your opinion? But at the same time I wonder that any movement to forward or backward on Rail would change the composition and would ruin the image. Am I right? My focusing rail is on the mail. Thanks.
My Nikon Z7ii has focus shift and works well, I have that set as an option on the Information Menu so a simple press of a button and you're in. You can of course go through the menu. Great video by the way
I just asked this further up - can you explain how that works? My Z7 means when im in the menu I cant see if i have lost critical focus - so am constantly messing around going in and out the menu. This would be a great boost for me.
@@5RustyBin hi, Go into custom menu f1, customise i menu Choose whichever item you dont use, press that icon and scroll to second page (Z7ii) and select Focus shift. This will now show this option in your i menu. 0nce you have obtained focus , if you’re in auto mode, select manual focus this should maintain your chosen focus point. Press i menu then select start and the camera will take your selected number of images. I have mine set as 10 frames, focus depth width 5, interval 0. Obviously my choice of settings may not suite you so if you so if you use say 20 images in your stack select 20 etc prior to shooting. Hope this helps
I like using a focusing rail were convenient but one query , does it matter if the sharp images are not in sequence ? You move back and forward, just a tad. ? Thank you either way Andrew always look forward to you videos.
Thank you for this. I have an R5 as well. Am I correct that the auto stacking feature on the R5 automatically shoots the stack using electronic shutter? So, no flash if you use this feature?
I have a z6 II and the 105mm macro lens. My camera has focus stacking in it. What I don't understand yet is how to know how far apart I should set the increments and how many pictures I should take. If I set it for more pictures than I need for the distance it's taking the pictures for, it will stop when it gets to that point. I know a lot of it depends on the distance to the subject whether it's at 1:1 ratio and also the depth of field. I think what I need to do is set up a ruler on a table and focus at the front and set a common aperture and start trying different stacking settings to see what each increment will do. That way I'll know how far apart to set it for different apertures. Does that make any sense?
Just come across this question while browsing. What your asking makes a lot of sense to me and is exactly what I would do if I bought a camera with this feature. I have a Canon 80D and have to stack manually with a tripod and focus rail. I used a similar technique for my close up work and keep a card in my camera bag with all the results "e.g." 1:2 life size at f11 and 2mm between shots. All the subjects are static so I don't have problems with movement unless it's too windy. I'm hoping I can do a similar thing when I buy a camera with the stacking feature in order to take the guess work away in the field!
I've tried handheld focus stacking before but find that my photos differ far too much between shots, meaning the end result just doesn't work. I'd love to watch a tutorial on this (assuming you haven't already made one)
You probably shake too much (like i do)/ i've seen a macro photographer on instagram use a tripod as a "anchor" and lets it rest on the hip or leg to avoid camera shake.
On the R5 I think you can set the number of shots so you can stop the automatic shooting shortly after it gets a shot focused at the far side of the subject. It takes a little planning. You can do the same thing manually as well. In macro the depth of field is tiny even at high f/stops. So, you will get the background blur you want. Also, in post when you process the focus stack, you can discard any shots in the stack that are focused too deep into the scene and process the stack using only the shots that you need to get the subject fully in focus leaving the background blurred.
I have that issue on my 35mm lens, which focuses by moving the rear element of it. I heard the effect is even more pronounced with macro lenses since their barrels move as they focus. Every tutorial I've read or watched didn't say anything about it. Looks like it has to do with the software used to stack the images and less the capturing process.
Hi Andrew - do you know if there is a way to allocate the "start focus shift shooting" to a custom function button. I find if I manually focus in the field then its all but impossible to go into the menus to start the focus shift shoot without losing that focus point. Its frustrating.
Hi, I'm not sure about the custom button. I don't believe it's a function that can be applied to a single button though. However, I also think that the focus bracketing tool relies on your lens being in auto focus, so it wouldn't help you when you're using manual focusing.
This is a great video but why don’t you explain how you put the photos together? Once you’ve done the focus? Stack, it’s kinda like showing us all the ingredients of a cake but not actually showing us how to bake the cake, how do you actually put the photos together, like what software do you use? How do you do that later? That’s what I was really interested to know.
sorry you are so fast in jour explanation and sorry y cane volling you, and i believe its so big your explanation ,Can you try speake a little bit slower for the Belgium people because i think its so interresant
My Canon 90D offers bracketing, but it's a pity that Canon does not automate the calculation of the number of steps needed and forces me to do guesswork. My Fuji XS-10 in comparison does automate everything, you simply tell it the nearest and farthest focus points and off it goes. Fuji seems to better understand that digital cameras are some kind of computers nowadays. I can do manual calculations for the 90D with the help of DOF calculating apps, but its tedious, sigh. Shame on you, Canon.
@@bencoles2462 bracketing works ok with the 90D but you have to put a bit of thought into it. I use Android apps to calculate the depth of field on then use that to derive the number of steps needed (times 1.3 or 1.5 to be on the safe side, i.e. get sufficient overlap).
Hi! I also have a 90d and I really can't use that function either... I set it initial focus point and it doesn't shot front that point inwards.... it focus from that point backwards... crazy stuff...
The focus stack setting on the R5 works awesome. You still have to be careful that you focus just a touch into the foreground for the starting point. Sometimes it’s hard with round subjects to judge this. Great channel it’s a pleasure to view. Thank you.
Some really useful tips here. Also, focus via a focus rail rather than focusing the lens itself etc.
Very interesting Andrew ! I have doing doing photography for about 10 years now . I have gone from a Rebel 3TI ,to a 6D and now the EOS R . I have purchased The RF 100mm F2.8 macro. I am trying to learn Macro photography. I noticed something that you said about focus stacking reminded me of conventual Photography . In conventual photography , you can shoot wildlife, sports, portraits, landscape ,commercial, product photography and on and on. Having said all that , could we said that in the world of macro , you could break macro into different types of macro ? In my conventual photography ,I shoot static subjects Landscape, architecture, automobiles etc. I believe one could drive themselves crazy trying to shoot all types of macro photography.
Thank you Andrew I really enjoyed that vid. it was very informative I am just starting in my macro journey. thanks
For home/studio photography, I've found a focus bracketing rail to be really useful. A bit tedious to adjust, take photo, adjust, take photo etc but it does the job!
Hello,
Have you tried burstmode and moving the rail continuously?
I've just started this macrojourney but just an idea.
Great and easy-to-understand video of a sometimes complicated technique.
Thanks Edmund, I appreciate that!
Thank you Andrew, very useful 👍
Thanks Andrew. That was a great summary.
That is awesome. Keep up the good work, always nice watching.
Great to the point tutorial with different techniques. I am about to get a Focusing Rail for focus stacking. What is your opinion? But at the same time I wonder that any movement to forward or backward on Rail would change the composition and would ruin the image. Am I right? My focusing rail is on the mail. Thanks.
This video is very informative, easy to understand, and quick.
Thank you. 👍🙂
you deserve more subscribers! my first time here and this video is fantastic!
Your tips are truly golden! Thank you Andrew. I really like your videos.
The handheld method is only possible with natural light or continuous light I presume? Thanks for the video Andrew!
Great video Andrew :)
My Nikon Z7ii has focus shift and works well, I have that set as an option on the Information Menu so a simple press of a button and you're in. You can of course go through the menu. Great video by the way
I just asked this further up - can you explain how that works? My Z7 means when im in the menu I cant see if i have lost critical focus - so am constantly messing around going in and out the menu. This would be a great boost for me.
@@5RustyBin hi,
Go into custom menu f1, customise i menu
Choose whichever item you dont use, press that icon and scroll to second page (Z7ii) and select Focus shift. This will now show this option in your i menu.
0nce you have obtained focus , if you’re in auto mode, select manual focus this should maintain your chosen focus point. Press i menu then select start and the camera will take your selected number of images. I have mine set as 10 frames, focus depth width 5, interval 0. Obviously my choice of settings may not suite you so if you so if you use say 20 images in your stack select 20 etc prior to shooting.
Hope this helps
I like using a focusing rail were convenient but one query , does it matter if the sharp images are not in sequence ? You move back and forward, just a tad. ?
Thank you either way Andrew always look forward to you videos.
Another good video Andrew
Thank you for this. I have an R5 as well. Am I correct that the auto stacking feature on the R5 automatically shoots the stack using electronic shutter? So, no flash if you use this feature?
That's correct, it won't trigger flash using the auto focus bracket. Instead you'll need to use continuous LED lights or the natural light
I have a z6 II and the 105mm macro lens. My camera has focus stacking in it. What I don't understand yet is how to know how far apart I should set the increments and how many pictures I should take. If I set it for more pictures than I need for the distance it's taking the pictures for, it will stop when it gets to that point. I know a lot of it depends on the distance to the subject whether it's at 1:1 ratio and also the depth of field. I think what I need to do is set up a ruler on a table and focus at the front and set a common aperture and start trying different stacking settings to see what each increment will do. That way I'll know how far apart to set it for different apertures. Does that make any sense?
Just come across this question while browsing. What your asking makes a lot of sense to me and is exactly what I would do if I bought a camera with this feature. I have a Canon 80D and have to stack manually with a tripod and focus rail. I used a similar technique for my close up work and keep a card in my camera bag with all the results "e.g." 1:2 life size at f11 and 2mm between shots. All the subjects are static so I don't have problems with movement unless it's too windy. I'm hoping I can do a similar thing when I buy a camera with the stacking feature in order to take the guess work away in the field!
would you do it with a Manuel lens too?
CamRanger I use for my older cameras.
I've tried handheld focus stacking before but find that my photos differ far too much between shots, meaning the end result just doesn't work. I'd love to watch a tutorial on this (assuming you haven't already made one)
You probably shake too much (like i do)/ i've seen a macro photographer on instagram use a tripod as a "anchor" and lets it rest on the hip or leg to avoid camera shake.
Is focus stacking the same as focus bracketing
My olympus has focusstacking in camera. So I havenot this “problem”
A question… Focus shift in camera, can you decide the depht of focus to get those nice creammy background or you can just get all picture sharp?
On the R5 I think you can set the number of shots so you can stop the automatic shooting shortly after it gets a shot focused at the far side of the subject. It takes a little planning. You can do the same thing manually as well. In macro the depth of field is tiny even at high f/stops. So, you will get the background blur you want. Also, in post when you process the focus stack, you can discard any shots in the stack that are focused too deep into the scene and process the stack using only the shots that you need to get the subject fully in focus leaving the background blurred.
how many frames per second is neccessary or do you consider burst mode? I have a sony A1 so I can do 30 fps
I have issues with focus breathing. Do u ? Is there a specific camera/lens pair i should use to avoid focus breathing ?
I have that issue on my 35mm lens, which focuses by moving the rear element of it. I heard the effect is even more pronounced with macro lenses since their barrels move as they focus. Every tutorial I've read or watched didn't say anything about it. Looks like it has to do with the software used to stack the images and less the capturing process.
Hi Andrew - do you know if there is a way to allocate the "start focus shift shooting" to a custom function button. I find if I manually focus in the field then its all but impossible to go into the menus to start the focus shift shoot without losing that focus point. Its frustrating.
Hi, I'm not sure about the custom button. I don't believe it's a function that can be applied to a single button though. However, I also think that the focus bracketing tool relies on your lens being in auto focus, so it wouldn't help you when you're using manual focusing.
Have a good day from productions ideas
What software are you people using to stack the photos?
Photoshop
This is a great video but why don’t you explain how you put the photos together? Once you’ve done the focus? Stack, it’s kinda like showing us all the ingredients of a cake but not actually showing us how to bake the cake, how do you actually put the photos together, like what software do you use? How do you do that later? That’s what I was really interested to know.
I remember being excited to see my camera had a focus-stacking mode built-in, but sadly it only produces jpegs.
There are better options than the Macallan 15…😀
sorry you are so fast in jour explanation and sorry y cane volling you, and i believe its so big your explanation ,Can you try speake a little bit slower for the Belgium people because i think its so interresant
My Canon 90D offers bracketing, but it's a pity that Canon does not automate the calculation of the number of steps needed and forces me to do guesswork. My Fuji XS-10 in comparison does automate everything, you simply tell it the nearest and farthest focus points and off it goes. Fuji seems to better understand that digital cameras are some kind of computers nowadays. I can do manual calculations for the 90D with the help of DOF calculating apps, but its tedious, sigh. Shame on you, Canon.
Does this cause issues when using bracketing on the 90d. I'm hoping to buy one soon, but won't bother if the bracketing is a waste of time
@@bencoles2462 bracketing works ok with the 90D but you have to put a bit of thought into it. I use Android apps to calculate the depth of field on then use that to derive the number of steps needed (times 1.3 or 1.5 to be on the safe side, i.e. get sufficient overlap).
@@jurgenchristoffel1699 thanks for the reply. Presumably difficult to use with insects then!
Hi! I also have a 90d and I really can't use that function either... I set it initial focus point and it doesn't shot front that point inwards.... it focus from that point backwards... crazy stuff...