FPP Color Negative Kit - Develop Film At Home!
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- Опубликовано: 25 мар 2024
- FPP's Color Negative Film Development Kit is an inexpensive way to develop color C-41 and ECN-2 negative film at home! Michael Raso walks you through the process.
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i just bought this the other day and i was waiting for this video! thank you for posting
i was really just waiting for the chemical times
All of the info on the video is on the instruction sheet that comes with the kit.
Just bought this but QUESTION! After using the chemicals the first time, how many seconds should we extend the developing/blix time for each subsequent roll?
We don't recommend any extension. (It's become popular with other brand products but traditionally we have never recommended). - Mike
For ECN2 films - youre removing the remjet AFTER development? Not before?
That's correct - after. The Rem Jet is a "big nothing" that slides off with your thumb in the last step (as seen in the video) - Mike
@@FilmPhotographyProject okay, thanks a bunch!
This is just sooo awesome. But, I can’t figure out which kit to purchase (standard 35mm film) - the FPP C41/ECN2 Color Kit - or the FPP C41 Dvelopment kit (this is the one I ended up getting) … do I need the ECN version?
Depends on your film, it should say on the box if it requires C41 or ECN2 chemistry
You probably get this question frequently so, apologies in advance, this will work for super 8 film, right?
Yes, it will but you will need the proper tank (and a movie film scanner). What tank - filmphotographyproject.com/processing-movie-film-tank-manage/
@@FilmPhotographyProject Thanks so much for the speedy response. I have been developing my own super 8 for several years, usually using a caffenol method. However, I have never been brave enough to try developing my own color film though. Your videos and products make it look relatively simple.
One more Q: If I just get the Packet FPP 76 Developer, I can use the same fixer, correct? And that is all I need (minimum) to develop B&W? (no bleach, I believe, correct?) Is it at all unwise to use the same fixer I used for color development for B&W? If the answers are: Yes, Yes, (no), and No, I assume I can find developer times on your site somewhere?
Thank you
I would use a separate bottle of Fixer. While the fixer in the color kit is the same, you will be exhausting it prematurely if you are giving it double duty to fix your BW film.
My questions:
Do these chemicals differ from other developing chemicals that are suggested to be stored in opaque plastic rather than your clear plastic bottles?
What is the best way to store the chemicals?
How long should they last aside from the amount of uses they could endure? (shelf life)
Is the bleach equivalent to standard full force bleach, (i.e. Clorox straight from the bottle)? If no, what is the difference?
The color of your used developer was more yellow that it was before use, will that have any affect on future developing?
How will you know when it is time to quit reusing the chemicals (you said that one fellow went up to 40 times), what will be the earliest signs?
Thank you
Hi. Mike here. Happy to help. All of my tutorials are based upon my experiences of usage. Everyone may have different opinions or methods.
Do these chemicals differ from other developing chemicals that are suggested to be stored in opaque plastic rather than your clear plastic bottles?
Clear or opaque is a personal preference. If using clear, store under cabinet away from sun light. The clear plastic bottles are inexpensive and allows you to squeeze out excess air before capping.
What is the best way to store the chemicals?
Store away from direct sunlight.
How long should they last aside from the amount of uses they could endure? (shelf life)
6 months.
Is the bleach equivalent to standard full force bleach, (i.e. Clorox straight from the bottle)? If no, what is the difference?
Beach is different from Clorox. Not me area of expertise regarding difference in the chemical compounds.
The color of your used developer was more yellow that it was before use, will that have any affect on future developing?
Make sure you pre-wash your film to remove dyes. Otherwise, color or remote particles (from Vision3 color) will not have any affect of the chemistry.
How will you know when it is time to quit reusing the chemicals (you said that one fellow went up to 40 times), what will be the earliest signs?
I quit at 15 rolls. If interested in the best possible results, quit at 10 rolls. If you go past (let's say) 20 rolls, your negs will start to look a but weak, which can be corrected via the scan.
@@FilmPhotographyProject thank you very much!!
@@FilmPhotographyProject Huge thank you for answering all my Q's, sir.
In fact, you can fix and then bleach with no problems at all
Let's keep it simple.
It's a fair point to bring up because I did this once by accident and thought I was "effed" as Mike would say. 😂
I wonder how much chemical you would need to developer a 100ft of movie film ?
Depends if it's 35 mm or 8mm or 16mm. A 36 exposure 35 mm roll gets you around 5 ft, and they say this chemistry could technically do up to 20, which would get you 100 ft of motion picture film
@@ColHogan-zg2pc well I suppose that 20ft of 35mm would be equal to 40ft of 16mm movie film. interesting to get an idea of what you can get away with. probably cheaper to send it to a lab.
grate channel Ive realy enjoyed listing in here in the UK.
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Real man don´t use gloves...........
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