“If something is worth doing, it’s worth doing badly”. A quote from someone who helps people manage depression. I like it a lot. It just means that something is always better than nothing. “Perfect is the enemy of done.”
Thanks for the tutorial, Sir! Your "good enough" level is awesome! This video addresses so many elements of miniature painting in an easy to follow method. I will definitely recommend it to aspiring hobbyists. Thanks!
I used to work with a Technical Director who was fond of saying, "Done is beautiful." We were on a lot of tight production deadlines in that Theatre company so some artists weren't able to create their dream production in the time available to them, but "good enough" was always better than an empty stage.
Thank you very much for another great lesson and btw, your „converted gunhauler“ aka „bunch of non-sense“ looks really cool! I had to pause and skip backwards to it 3 more times! Kudos and and a fantastic week Maestro Venturella🙇🏽♂️🙌🏼🌞
Vince remind me of something my art professor taught me The second you draw a perfect picture stop doing it because you’ve achieved a level of perfection and no one else can. I’m heading for competition now i’m going to get the miniatures level I feel comfortable with and then I’m gonna move on with the judges like it I like it if they don’t they don’t
Wouldn't it be a great world in which we could push ourselves to paint NMM on each and every little dude in your army? But definitely this video made me feel more calm about not going all the way with every mini...I will take your advice to heart, it is still better to have nice output rather than stress out over every detail on your army with 200 miniatures
Vince, Thanks for the excellent tutorial on your process….but on this one, I find the philosophy of “good enough” to be the best part and someone I sorely needed to hear. I might even print it out and tape it up above my works-ace. thanks again!
For someone like me who goes full try hard every time I paint, this video was a nice reminder that you don't have to go show peace on every single thing you paint for it to still look nice and be happy with it. Thanks, Vince.
Well thank you, that is very kind, but what you aren't seeing in that video is the 13k hours I've painted over the past 6+ years. So I hope I've learned a few things in that time. ;) - In the end, the key is not burn yourself out on any project whereever you are on your hobby journey and give yourself permission to just get some things done.
I'm still fairly new, and I'm in such a weird place here... I zenithal, throw a mix of some transparent layers down, and to me the fig looks great after five minutes. Which would be awesome, but I'm having a real struggle improving because of it. If I work for an hour, the fig will look half as good. If I work for five hours, it will look like a child fingerpainted the thing. The five minute sketch opening puts color on the model and keeps the shadows and highlights, and the second I start putting any remotely opaque paint on it my lack of skill/experience starts to exponentially make the fig look worse and worse the deeper I get. I know if I don't push and try I'll never get any better, but I feel like I'm having to sacrifice figs that looked great at the beginning, and it's heartbreaking. :/ Ever go through a phase like that?
And this is Trovarion's guide to contrast on miniatures. If you apply the proper glazing techniques to reinforce the basic contrast that zenithal highlighting provides, you should be good. ruclips.net/video/oPAgc7tP0FU/видео.html
Paul's links below are great advice. My best advice is if your comfortable with glazing, then it sounds like where you are needing to work is on your blending on and building up that contrast. Check out my Smooth Blends video and you will see how I build on the basics you're describing. You can find the video here - ruclips.net/video/k84npvSDpsI/видео.html You may want to also check out my videos on wet blending, as that might help you with some additional techniques.
the point is to work no more than 20-30 minutes to keep your eyes and hand focused. proficiency is about how much you could do during this 30 minutes. someone like Vince could finish with great result. someone less experienced just coming back next time to spend another 30 minutes.
Well, your best will always move over time, the key is to never beat yourself up and just be free to paint less than whatever that is at any given point in time. :)
I really struggle getting into this mindset. This quarantine (which started a few weeks ago here in Spain) I decided to paint some warbands to play warhammer underworlds with my girlfriend, and I've been able to paint only 2 miniatures so far, because I get caught in this idea of showing the mini to my girlfriend for example, and telling her "yeah, I painted this to half my level because I wanted it painted". Which obviously sounds stupid when you say it outloud. I reeaaaally need to get easily into this mindset. I haven't played a single underworlds game because I don't have the warbands painted and assembled, and I don't have them finished because I try to produce always a better mini than my last one. So frustrating... xD
Yeah, the real key is to remember that you will learn more from finishing and evaluating than taking forever with one miniature and every painted miniature is better than an unpainted one. :)
Great episode, I have no idea why I have never incorporated black ink with my steel that my friend is going to change immediately. Thank you again for being an inspiration.
It's a great tool and helps to matte down the paint as well. Get crazy with all the inks and your metal is my best advice. (also, we did use black ink on the metal in class, so...) ;)
My man! It’s like I had been waiting my entire life for somebody to tell me this. What a great unbinding power these 7 words carry. Your metaphor and exhibition here simply nailed it! Now, just to put this revelation in perspective for myself. One can’t ride a bike with arms wide open forever. At some point you got to hunker down and steer the reigns. But this contraction and expansion seems to be the creative way for so many things. On the seventh day even God rested right? Balance your idea of perfection with the time granted to yourself. Maybe in heaven there is painting too? Let’s all just start enjoying the journey now and see what dreams may come!
Great timing! Currently working on some board game minis and my need to get them finished is fighting my need for perfection. I mean, honestly, when we play the game, with the lights dimmed, who is going to notice I painted a bit of armour as flesh under one of the horde guy's armpit?? I do NOT need to go back and correct it......no one can see it...no one will know...
That's one of the difficult thing to understand at the beginning of the painting path. All the time I try to do my best. And even if I try to paint something with easy, fast techniques like f.e. drybrush, I feel like I just mess everything up, want to strip paint away and paint it again. It's harder for me to learn myself "where is miniature good enough for wargaming" than learn new techniques like wet blending or glazing.
THey key is balance, Sometimes, you just have to accept less and try maybe one new thing and accept it. Because your best now will be bad when you have 2 more years of learning under your belt. Then you can take individual figures or projects intermittently and really push yourself.
Starting my first army with all that’s happening and even though I’m making good progress this is very good to watch to smooth that little nagging voice “buuuuuuut what if you spent more time on them....” Thanks!
I suffer from the opposite problem. I dont mind painting horde armies at 50% of my capabilities, but I really struggle putting my all into one or two of the hero or centerpiece models. I put off painting the leaders because I feel like they have to be perfect. For the units, I paint up to batches of 90 just as a basecoat, wash, basecoat, slight highlight. It doesnt matter if a single model doesnt look amazing because they look amazing in a group of 90 unified troops. But hero models have to be perfect even up close
It's tough, because you do have to change your mind set with the leaders/characters/centerpieces. That being said, the key is to switch your head space and use them as an opportunity to try things, explore and focus some deliberate learning, then they become something more fun to explore and the time passes quicker. :)
Hi Vince, , first off i wish to thank you so much for the amount of work you put into these videos.I've learned so much from them it's almost ridculous...I've been painting since around 1994, and I often think that i'm not a bad painter but your tips have been precious for me to try and go to another level. As a future topic, I'd like to know if you can have some recomendations for colourblind people, like myself. As I've said, I've been painting for some time and don't consider myself a bad painter. Howeer, i often find myself sticking to f romulas or specific paints because of my colourblind issues and even though i may not perceive them as most do, I know from theory (your colour videos are awesome for this) that some things just work. Sorry for any confusion but english is not my primary language:) Once again thank you for your awesome work and keep those videos coming :)
Not being colorblind, it might be hard for me to communicate with full knowledge of the challenges, but I am certainly willing to add it to the list and give it a go.
Haha, since I'm still a noob, everything is less than my best, but it's a learning experience. I tend to pick my minis by whatever technique I still need to learn, like started out with some fantasy demon thing that didn't have a set coloration by lore, then went to an unclean one, cause you could go wild with everything and all the details on the mini made it look good even with less skill, then went on to sci fi to work with metalics. Now I got several minis that require a lot of human (or at leat close to) skin, so that's my next big step.
Excellent work and advice, Vincent. For doing squads, war bands, etc. where the models will have a similar scheme, do you plan out a scheme and have all the paints ready to go on the wet palette before starting?
Yep, very big part of how to get more speed going is just having things relatively understood (I don't plan out every belt and bobbin, but main parts) and I have my paints ready to go.
Completely off topic, Vince, but how did you wind up assembling your Chaos Knights before painting? I just picked up a set and while I appreciate how well designed they are for push-fit models, I was a little taken aback at elements of their assembly like 3/4 of a leg being molded onto the saddle. I'm used to painting in sub-assemblies and these guys don't seem like they'd be *too* much of a pain to paint at least mostly if not fully assembled, but I was curious if you had found any simple trick like separating certain parts and reattaching them later on.
Yeah, they are really rough. I leave the arms with the shields off where possible and just make due with the rest being all assembled. It's not ideal, but it's doable.
As i have grown into wanting to be a better painter i realized that my line troops are a bottleneck, to the point where unless its a vehicle or character i like, its just aa few simple steps I do to get my guys on the table. I would much rather be painting characters or something else. But i enjoy playing just as much as painting so i gotta get dem troops done.
How does your white (i.e. top) zenithial layer always blend into the previous layer so well? Mine always ends up looking like a white "cap", with a hard line transition to the grey layer - kinda like icing on top of a cake.
What do you mean starting with a 4 oppose to a 3 how can you tell what your painting at? I’m a new hobbiest and I tried to do a zenethal And my paint literally just covered it like it was a normal primer after 2 coats
I apologize, but I don't remember the exact point I was making, happy to help, can you give me some more detail where you are stuck, always happy to help a new hobbyist.
Obviously not Vince here, but I've used a couple of different things to temporarily hold down my minis. One is poster tac, that white or blue stuff you can use to put stuff up on your walls. It's reusable to a degree, depending on whether you spray paint or airbrush your models heavily. You can knead it to restore a but of sticky and then reuse it, but in my experience it'll last a few times and then need to be replaced. The other is butyl tape(?), and it's a lot stickier. Got mine from a guy who does windshields, and the paper part of the tape it's just to keep it from sticking to everything else, and itself. Peel that off, knead a little ball of butyl, and stick it on a pill or paint bottle and you've got a good sticky handle. The butyl never dries, at least on a time scale I've seen, and it is supremely sticky, so it's kinda perfect for sticking stuff to. A WORD OF WARNING! If you find some butyl tape, be very careful what you stick to it. A big, sturdy mini is ideal, since it's not going anywhere accidentally. You can use it to hold smaller stuff, but caution is warranted. Don't let it sit too long, or you may have a hard time extracting your mini without difficulty, and for smaller minis a little ball will likely be more than enough.
Just painted 5 stormcast liberators after a 2 year break, before which I had like a 4 year break. The result was, well, horrible. But I decided to keep going nonetheless, the skill will come back over time, and the next army I do will start at an exponentially higher level than this starter pack.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply! I'm using the Army Painter starter set, but I feel like the paint is not quite right. Do you have perhaps a list of the better brand/color combinations for the base colors? Say, citadel for red, vallejo for yellow or something? I like to mix my colors, mainly to save money! I need around 8 paints, but the amount of brands out there is overwhelming
@@clearasil11 My best advice is watch this video, the other option I didn't include in this video because it wasn't available at the time is Pro Acryl, I really love them, they are pigment rich and very friendly to new painters. You can get them from Creater Caster. ruclips.net/video/et6VmcFJpXU/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella apparently my issue was using the army painter gold paint, and stormcast are, well, 90% gold. Thanks for the link, I'll get myself some new metallics and save the other AP paints
Hello and thank you for the video! So just to take a lesson to heart, in what cases (that don't include competition) you wouldn't recommend starting from dark tones and building up? (I know it is a super general question and maybe not worthy of a particular answer) Cheers!
It works well in lots of situations, but I like it with colors that are going to build up nicely and I can then glaze back down. So for example, the blue you saw here, green, and purple. FOr the warm colors, I prefer to start brighter and shade down. That being said, it's a guideline at most and certainly not a rule.
Thanks again Vince. Question? What is your decision process when deciding on paints to use? I am toying with expanding my paint range. I have some citadel, some Vallejo and some scale 75 (scale colour and fantasy and games). Thinking of getting the entire scale colour range as it is on sale at the moment. I almost exclusively paint GW fantasy minis. Do you have any advice? I understand this is a very, very broad topic.
Whatever color strikes me at that moment. I have some paints I like, and I think about how thin or opaque I want them to be. Basically, I just start the project and stare at my paint racks until I figure out what I want to use.
Vince Venturella cheers Vince. Think I’m going to order them. What the hell! Also do you think you will visit the UK after this whole situation is over and run any classes? I would sign up.
@@computerscience1017 Yes, I was originally teaching the week after Warhammer Fest, that got moved, but we are hoping to still be able to come over this year later in the year.
Great video V, I've kept 'perfect is the enemy of good enough' in my mind since I heard you say it first in vids. My painting is really improving but my struggle right now is drying times. How long did you leave between your number 4 and the higher layers? I've just learned not to 'work' paint that is starting to set. But I think I'm overcompensating and its really slowing me down.
So I'll say for me, I don't leave it long at all, but my office where I paint is as dry as death valley, so everything dries very fast. It's sort of a thing you will feel out with your brand of paint and humidity situation. You want to keep working the paint until you can't (which is a completely vapid statement I know), but it's sort of something you will feel out and get a sense of over time.
One guy at a time. I talk about it in a few video, but for the most part, I do all the non-metallics of a single figure in the group, then move to the next.
@@VinceVenturella I have done it both ways over the years. Mostly in a batch method so if I am painting 24 guys in a platoon so I can get the colors all the same. But my recent project is just a gang of 10 post-apocalyptic people and that was not really working well.
great insights from you as usual VInce. This came at a good time, where I feel like I'm spending a lot of time on painting my units for diminishing returns. Are you going to do a video on your lizardman project?
Have you got a video camera installed in my study? This was exactly the problem I was wrestling with yesterday, and with the amazing GSC hybrid models as well!
Nope, metallic paints (especially Vallejo Metal Color) are pretty tough. and plastic miniatures don't scrap easily. I have been doing this for years and my figs hit the table often, never had an issue.
Which line are you referring to? There's the Real Colors line and the 3rd Generation line? The reason I ask is because there's one key difference; 3rd Generation is made with acrylic resin as the binder, whereas Real Colors are made with an acrylic lacquer.
“If something is worth doing, it’s worth doing badly”. A quote from someone who helps people manage depression. I like it a lot. It just means that something is always better than nothing. “Perfect is the enemy of done.”
Love it, that is such a great quote.
The biggest lie I tell myself when painting: "I'm going to keep this simple."
Good intentions pave a certain path. ;)
Thanks for the tutorial, Sir! Your "good enough" level is awesome! This video addresses so many elements of miniature painting in an easy to follow method. I will definitely recommend it to aspiring hobbyists. Thanks!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I used to work with a Technical Director who was fond of saying, "Done is beautiful." We were on a lot of tight production deadlines in that Theatre company so some artists weren't able to create their dream production in the time available to them, but "good enough" was always better than an empty stage.
Thank you very much for another great lesson and btw, your „converted gunhauler“ aka „bunch of non-sense“ looks really cool! I had to pause and skip backwards to it 3 more times! Kudos and and a fantastic week Maestro Venturella🙇🏽♂️🙌🏼🌞
Vince remind me of something my art professor taught me The second you draw a perfect picture stop doing it because you’ve achieved a level of perfection and no one else can. I’m heading for competition now i’m going to get the miniatures level I feel comfortable with and then I’m gonna move on with the judges like it I like it if they don’t they don’t
Exactly, there is no perfect in the end, that's the great part about miniature painting, you always have more to do and learn.
Wouldn't it be a great world in which we could push ourselves to paint NMM on each and every little dude in your army? But definitely this video made me feel more calm about not going all the way with every mini...I will take your advice to heart, it is still better to have nice output rather than stress out over every detail on your army with 200 miniatures
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Vince, Thanks for the excellent tutorial on your process….but on this one, I find the philosophy of “good enough” to be the best part and someone I sorely needed to hear. I might even print it out and tape it up above my works-ace. thanks again!
Yep, this is the key, you have to give yourself permission, it's about still having fun.
For someone like me who goes full try hard every time I paint, this video was a nice reminder that you don't have to go show peace on every single thing you paint for it to still look nice and be happy with it. Thanks, Vince.
Yep, it can be fun to vary the effort and just work the old speed model.
Anyone else feel that Vince's 'less than his best' is a quality they absolutely aspire to? :D
I aspire to half of vinces less than best
Well thank you, that is very kind, but what you aren't seeing in that video is the 13k hours I've painted over the past 6+ years. So I hope I've learned a few things in that time. ;) - In the end, the key is not burn yourself out on any project whereever you are on your hobby journey and give yourself permission to just get some things done.
I'm still fairly new, and I'm in such a weird place here... I zenithal, throw a mix of some transparent layers down, and to me the fig looks great after five minutes.
Which would be awesome, but I'm having a real struggle improving because of it. If I work for an hour, the fig will look half as good. If I work for five hours, it will look like a child fingerpainted the thing. The five minute sketch opening puts color on the model and keeps the shadows and highlights, and the second I start putting any remotely opaque paint on it my lack of skill/experience starts to exponentially make the fig look worse and worse the deeper I get. I know if I don't push and try I'll never get any better, but I feel like I'm having to sacrifice figs that looked great at the beginning, and it's heartbreaking. :/
Ever go through a phase like that?
This video on glazing by Darren Latham got me unstuck, hope it helps.
ruclips.net/video/lH7f5pAi-XE/видео.html
And this is Trovarion's guide to contrast on miniatures. If you apply the proper glazing techniques to reinforce the basic contrast that zenithal highlighting provides, you should be good.
ruclips.net/video/oPAgc7tP0FU/видео.html
Paul's links below are great advice. My best advice is if your comfortable with glazing, then it sounds like where you are needing to work is on your blending on and building up that contrast. Check out my Smooth Blends video and you will see how I build on the basics you're describing.
You can find the video here - ruclips.net/video/k84npvSDpsI/видео.html
You may want to also check out my videos on wet blending, as that might help you with some additional techniques.
the point is to work no more than 20-30 minutes to keep your eyes and hand focused. proficiency is about how much you could do during this 30 minutes. someone like Vince could finish with great result. someone less experienced just coming back next time to spend another 30 minutes.
"Less than your best", as Vince paints a miniature better than I could with my best attempt.
Well, your best will always move over time, the key is to never beat yourself up and just be free to paint less than whatever that is at any given point in time. :)
Vince Venturella Thanks Vince. This is so true, in all walks of life! Just made me chuckle.
Very interesting topic as I'm really bad at going faster on my own minis. Once again, thank your for the video Vince!!!
Glad it was helpful\ as always. :)
I really struggle getting into this mindset. This quarantine (which started a few weeks ago here in Spain) I decided to paint some warbands to play warhammer underworlds with my girlfriend, and I've been able to paint only 2 miniatures so far, because I get caught in this idea of showing the mini to my girlfriend for example, and telling her "yeah, I painted this to half my level because I wanted it painted".
Which obviously sounds stupid when you say it outloud. I reeaaaally need to get easily into this mindset. I haven't played a single underworlds game because I don't have the warbands painted and assembled, and I don't have them finished because I try to produce always a better mini than my last one. So frustrating... xD
Yeah, the real key is to remember that you will learn more from finishing and evaluating than taking forever with one miniature and every painted miniature is better than an unpainted one. :)
Great episode, I have no idea why I have never incorporated black ink with my steel that my friend is going to change immediately. Thank you again for being an inspiration.
It's a great tool and helps to matte down the paint as well. Get crazy with all the inks and your metal is my best advice. (also, we did use black ink on the metal in class, so...) ;)
@@VinceVenturella Oh, right... Sorry Iv'e been in the FEC mindset for so long now I need to revisit certain techniques.
Great video, as always.
For whatever reason I keep expecting a Hobby Cheating video to randomly exit with a Miniac outro... just once.
I'm not really one who yells. I like quiet. ;)
My man! It’s like I had been waiting my entire life for somebody to tell me this. What a great unbinding power these 7 words carry. Your metaphor and exhibition here simply nailed it! Now, just to put this revelation in perspective for myself. One can’t ride a bike with arms wide open forever. At some point you got to hunker down and steer the reigns. But this contraction and expansion seems to be the creative way for so many things. On the seventh day even God rested right? Balance your idea of perfection with the time granted to yourself. Maybe in heaven there is painting too? Let’s all just start enjoying the journey now and see what dreams may come!
Exactly right and glad to help as always. :)
Great timing! Currently working on some board game minis and my need to get them finished is fighting my need for perfection. I mean, honestly, when we play the game, with the lights dimmed, who is going to notice I painted a bit of armour as flesh under one of the horde guy's armpit?? I do NOT need to go back and correct it......no one can see it...no one will know...
That's exactly right, we worry too much about perfection in something that is meant to be a fun game.
That's one of the difficult thing to understand at the beginning of the painting path. All the time I try to do my best. And even if I try to paint something with easy, fast techniques like f.e. drybrush, I feel like I just mess everything up, want to strip paint away and paint it again. It's harder for me to learn myself "where is miniature good enough for wargaming" than learn new techniques like wet blending or glazing.
THey key is balance, Sometimes, you just have to accept less and try maybe one new thing and accept it. Because your best now will be bad when you have 2 more years of learning under your belt. Then you can take individual figures or projects intermittently and really push yourself.
Starting my first army with all that’s happening and even though I’m making good progress this is very good to watch to smooth that little nagging voice “buuuuuuut what if you spent more time on them....” Thanks!
Thank you, hope this helps and best of luck!
I suffer from the opposite problem. I dont mind painting horde armies at 50% of my capabilities, but I really struggle putting my all into one or two of the hero or centerpiece models.
I put off painting the leaders because I feel like they have to be perfect. For the units, I paint up to batches of 90 just as a basecoat, wash, basecoat, slight highlight. It doesnt matter if a single model doesnt look amazing because they look amazing in a group of 90 unified troops. But hero models have to be perfect even up close
It's tough, because you do have to change your mind set with the leaders/characters/centerpieces. That being said, the key is to switch your head space and use them as an opportunity to try things, explore and focus some deliberate learning, then they become something more fun to explore and the time passes quicker. :)
Hi Vince, , first off i wish to thank you so much for the amount of work you put into these videos.I've learned so much from them it's almost ridculous...I've been painting since around 1994, and I often think that i'm not a bad painter but your tips have been precious for me to try and go to another level.
As a future topic, I'd like to know if you can have some recomendations for colourblind people, like myself. As I've said, I've been painting for some time and don't consider myself a bad painter. Howeer, i often find myself sticking to f romulas or specific paints because of my colourblind issues and even though i may not perceive them as most do, I know from theory (your colour videos are awesome for this) that some things just work.
Sorry for any confusion but english is not my primary language:)
Once again thank you for your awesome work and keep those videos coming :)
Not being colorblind, it might be hard for me to communicate with full knowledge of the challenges, but I am certainly willing to add it to the list and give it a go.
As always, great content & presentation. Thank you 👍🏻
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Haha, since I'm still a noob, everything is less than my best, but it's a learning experience. I tend to pick my minis by whatever technique I still need to learn, like started out with some fantasy demon thing that didn't have a set coloration by lore, then went to an unclean one, cause you could go wild with everything and all the details on the mini made it look good even with less skill, then went on to sci fi to work with metalics. Now I got several minis that require a lot of human (or at leat close to) skin, so that's my next big step.
Awesome, good luck, I love painting skin tones, it's so fun to explore.
Really great video.. worth watching twice to really take in that info 👍
Great to hear! Always happy to help.
Excellent work and advice, Vincent. For doing squads, war bands, etc. where the models will have a similar scheme, do you plan out a scheme and have all the paints ready to go on the wet palette before starting?
Yep, very big part of how to get more speed going is just having things relatively understood (I don't plan out every belt and bobbin, but main parts) and I have my paints ready to go.
Terrific advice. Please be sure to show us some photos of the finished unit when it is done.
Yep, I should have had some photos in there at the end, not sure how those got missed, but they'll be on the socials.
Completely off topic, Vince, but how did you wind up assembling your Chaos Knights before painting? I just picked up a set and while I appreciate how well designed they are for push-fit models, I was a little taken aback at elements of their assembly like 3/4 of a leg being molded onto the saddle. I'm used to painting in sub-assemblies and these guys don't seem like they'd be *too* much of a pain to paint at least mostly if not fully assembled, but I was curious if you had found any simple trick like separating certain parts and reattaching them later on.
Yeah, they are really rough. I leave the arms with the shields off where possible and just make due with the rest being all assembled. It's not ideal, but it's doable.
As i have grown into wanting to be a better painter i realized that my line troops are a bottleneck, to the point where unless its a vehicle or character i like, its just aa few simple steps I do to get my guys on the table. I would much rather be painting characters or something else. But i enjoy playing just as much as painting so i gotta get dem troops done.
I understand, it's very similar situation for me, that's why I am almost always on the road of minimal battleline.
How does your white (i.e. top) zenithial layer always blend into the previous layer so well?
Mine always ends up looking like a white "cap", with a hard line transition to the grey layer - kinda like icing on top of a cake.
Try some white ink or add some more thinner would be my best advice, the key is to make sure your white layer is thin and do a few coats.
What do you mean starting with a 4 oppose to a 3 how can you tell what your painting at? I’m a new hobbiest and I tried to do a zenethal
And my paint literally just covered it like it was a normal primer after 2 coats
I apologize, but I don't remember the exact point I was making, happy to help, can you give me some more detail where you are stuck, always happy to help a new hobbyist.
Thanks again Vince...Great stuff
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
What's the gooy stuff you stick your minis on and is it reusable?
Obviously not Vince here, but I've used a couple of different things to temporarily hold down my minis. One is poster tac, that white or blue stuff you can use to put stuff up on your walls. It's reusable to a degree, depending on whether you spray paint or airbrush your models heavily. You can knead it to restore a but of sticky and then reuse it, but in my experience it'll last a few times and then need to be replaced.
The other is butyl tape(?), and it's a lot stickier. Got mine from a guy who does windshields, and the paper part of the tape it's just to keep it from sticking to everything else, and itself. Peel that off, knead a little ball of butyl, and stick it on a pill or paint bottle and you've got a good sticky handle. The butyl never dries, at least on a time scale I've seen, and it is supremely sticky, so it's kinda perfect for sticking stuff to.
A WORD OF WARNING! If you find some butyl tape, be very careful what you stick to it. A big, sturdy mini is ideal, since it's not going anywhere accidentally. You can use it to hold smaller stuff, but caution is warranted. Don't let it sit too long, or you may have a hard time extracting your mini without difficulty, and for smaller minis a little ball will likely be more than enough.
Yep, just poster tac, basically blu-tack or anything like that.
Thank you. 🙏
Just painted 5 stormcast liberators after a 2 year break, before which I had like a 4 year break. The result was, well, horrible. But I decided to keep going nonetheless, the skill will come back over time, and the next army I do will start at an exponentially higher level than this starter pack.
Exactly the right attitude. In the end, any painted miniature is better than an unpainted miniature and every mini represents growth. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply! I'm using the Army Painter starter set, but I feel like the paint is not quite right. Do you have perhaps a list of the better brand/color combinations for the base colors? Say, citadel for red, vallejo for yellow or something? I like to mix my colors, mainly to save money! I need around 8 paints, but the amount of brands out there is overwhelming
@@clearasil11 My best advice is watch this video, the other option I didn't include in this video because it wasn't available at the time is Pro Acryl, I really love them, they are pigment rich and very friendly to new painters. You can get them from Creater Caster.
ruclips.net/video/et6VmcFJpXU/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella apparently my issue was using the army painter gold paint, and stormcast are, well, 90% gold. Thanks for the link, I'll get myself some new metallics and save the other AP paints
Hello and thank you for the video!
So just to take a lesson to heart, in what cases (that don't include competition) you wouldn't recommend starting from dark tones and building up?
(I know it is a super general question and maybe not worthy of a particular answer)
Cheers!
It works well in lots of situations, but I like it with colors that are going to build up nicely and I can then glaze back down. So for example, the blue you saw here, green, and purple. FOr the warm colors, I prefer to start brighter and shade down. That being said, it's a guideline at most and certainly not a rule.
Really needed this
Happy to help as always. :)
Is Pale Sand yellow enough to work as the highlight for Rhinox Hide?
Sure, you may have to mix them a little, but it will work.
Thanks again Vince.
Question? What is your decision process when deciding on paints to use? I am toying with expanding my paint range. I have some citadel, some Vallejo and some scale 75 (scale colour and fantasy and games). Thinking of getting the entire scale colour range as it is on sale at the moment. I almost exclusively paint GW fantasy minis. Do you have any advice? I understand this is a very, very broad topic.
Whatever color strikes me at that moment. I have some paints I like, and I think about how thin or opaque I want them to be. Basically, I just start the project and stare at my paint racks until I figure out what I want to use.
Vince Venturella cheers Vince. Think I’m going to order them. What the hell! Also do you think you will visit the UK after this whole situation is over and run any classes? I would sign up.
@@computerscience1017 Yes, I was originally teaching the week after Warhammer Fest, that got moved, but we are hoping to still be able to come over this year later in the year.
What's the nearest equivalent to Bright Ivory in the Vallejo ranges? Aged White?
Pale Sand, that's my go to equivalent.
Great video Vince. Could you show us how to paint large areas to look like either paper or cloth (like a ship's sail, for example)? Many thanks!
Sure, I will add it to the list. :)
Great video V, I've kept 'perfect is the enemy of good enough' in my mind since I heard you say it first in vids. My painting is really improving but my struggle right now is drying times.
How long did you leave between your number 4 and the higher layers?
I've just learned not to 'work' paint that is starting to set. But I think I'm overcompensating and its really slowing me down.
So I'll say for me, I don't leave it long at all, but my office where I paint is as dry as death valley, so everything dries very fast. It's sort of a thing you will feel out with your brand of paint and humidity situation. You want to keep working the paint until you can't (which is a completely vapid statement I know), but it's sort of something you will feel out and get a sense of over time.
When you do a unit like this do you do one guy at a time or try to do it in batches. All the flesh, all the pants etc.. ?
One guy at a time. I talk about it in a few video, but for the most part, I do all the non-metallics of a single figure in the group, then move to the next.
@@VinceVenturella I have done it both ways over the years. Mostly in a batch method so if I am painting 24 guys in a platoon so I can get the colors all the same. But my recent project is just a gang of 10 post-apocalyptic people and that was not really working well.
great insights from you as usual VInce. This came at a good time, where I feel like I'm spending a lot of time on painting my units for diminishing returns. Are you going to do a video on your lizardman project?
Oh yes, I was just editing that whole project today. :)
Have you got a video camera installed in my study? This was exactly the problem I was wrestling with yesterday, and with the amazing GSC hybrid models as well!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
perfect miniature is one I am painting right now
That's a pretty perfect miniature for sure. :)
So when painting metallics you varnish before the metallics. Aren't you worried about that paint being unprotected for gaming?
Nope, metallic paints (especially Vallejo Metal Color) are pretty tough. and plastic miniatures don't scrap easily. I have been doing this for years and my figs hit the table often, never had an issue.
i take too long I dont care Problably for the best cause in this quarentine You Need to stay Busy and well we all need that
Well, it's a good point, you shouldn't be afraid of taking a while as well, both are good. :)
Have you had a chance to look at AK interactive's new acrylic line? I've been hearing great things from them out of the scale modeling community
Which line are you referring to? There's the Real Colors line and the 3rd Generation line? The reason I ask is because there's one key difference; 3rd Generation is made with acrylic resin as the binder, whereas Real Colors are made with an acrylic lacquer.
@@TheRunesmythe in talking about the third generation line! Thank you for asking
Yes, I have some of the 3rd generation acrylic and I am working through them now.
I feel bad for the sponge in your wet palette.
Yeah, it's had a rough life.
Title sounds like it’s something for me. I have my wife and son army’s to paint and my own 2/3 to add on units. 🤷🏽♂️
This is the video for you then. :)
This is the lesson I’ve needed most.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Read the title and I'm immediately retweeting this video.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
What game are those for?
The miniatures are Atalan Jackals from Gelestealer Cults line for warhammer 40k, however pistol arms/hands are from something else.
Yep, the other bits are from empire/freeguild pistoliers. I use them as Pistoliers for Age of Sigmar (though the base Jackals are for 40k)
@@VinceVenturella they're pretty cool man
Spent like 2-3 days painting one dire avenger and it still needs work... x_x
Well, hopefully, this helps give you some ideas. :)
but should we paint less than vince's less than best? vinces less than best in 10 (or whatever) minutes looks better than my best :'( in 10 ... weeks.
Sure, whatever your best is, the key is you shouldn't always push yourself in every paintjob, it's a quick path to burnout. :)
Vince, can you lower the volume of the intro music. It's too loud compared to your voice during the video
I'll see what I can do.