"That big thump when you power it off? Totally normal." That one had me laughing. At the end of a rough day, nothing is better than a laugh. Thanks a million, Lyle.
I had an early 112 lonestar. I got it used. The speaker had voicecoil rub, so the store replaced that for me. Then 5 minutes after getting it home, a power tube blew, and took out the screen resistors. All told, it was in the shop 3 of the first 4 weeks I owned it. I traded it back to the store and got something else. I still think it’s one of the best clean tones I’ve ever had.
Thanks for the vid. I play professionally, a range of styles from jazz,blues,soul,classic rock, funk. I have an LSC head and love it, but don’t play it a lot these days as I don’t need the loud headroom often and use the lightweight option of my Mesa Express 5:25 10” combo (also great and versatile) or a modeller direct to PA. I’ve owned quite a few Mesa products (studio preamp, studio .22 combo, Simulclass 295 Power amp). They are clearly much more complex than many other amps and have not been designed as easy to work on. They probably have also under-specked on some components which is a shame to hear. I might have been lucky to have had no reliability problems, but I might also be a very careful owner who takes care of my gear and regularly checks that things are clean, tight and tidy. Happy music making everyone!😊
It is funny that I just wrote on a post yesterday that I loved the sound of the Lonestar, but every one that I have ever heard was really noisy (buzzy), and I wondered if someone might take a cap and wire or something and send such to ground or something. Your work here certainly made this one quiet as can be. I'm going to hang on to this video in case I ever do get one.... I'll know what to do to it. Big thanks!!!
The expectation that engineering drawings will match physical reality is a little like beating the 50% odds that a MacDonalds drive through will deliver what was ordered. It is still better than the odds their shake machine is working.
I’ve been using backline Lonestars for years. My fav big stage amp ever. I can only recall a couple failed units over hundreds of shows. I find Mesas to be pretty reliable overall…but I’m just a guitar player. 😅
I bought a blue bronco Mesa Lonestar Classic 212 Combo when they first came out. It has served me well for years on tons of gigs. The only issue is it weighs a ton. 🎸👍
What I have learned from watching this channel. Basically all other the Friedman and so others building there amps cheap and design them to fail along the road.
I have a early Lone Star (LSC) head. It’s been all over North America and worked night after night. My amp has never traveled without its road case. I have been very proactive with maintenance on the amp. I never really liked tube rectifier in the Lonestar. Some boutique amp guy used SS rectifier in his amps. I’ve heard there are some modifications to the LSC. It’s been a good sounding amp, which I’m using as the ubiquitous pedal platform. Since I don’t have access to Mesa Repair anymore, I’m going to look into having the amp getting some parts replaced. Thanks
If the B+ first filter cap exceeds the recommended max value, one trick (instead of lowering cap value) to make rectifier tube's life a bit easier is to add small (10-30 ohms) resistor between rectifier and the filter cap to limit peak currents a bit. Or it is possible to add two series resistors to rectifier anode (input) circuit as well. Rectifier tube loves either option.
I have a Lonestar like this one. It’s not faulty and has been super reliable and sounds amazing. I’d say it’s about 5-7ish years old… what would you say needs modding to keep it this way or pre-emotive servicing. Thanks for the content
Jan will live up to about 115% the spec sheet for current peaks . New stock would spec no more than 32 mfd for a long life. For tube rectifiers 8 mfd was much more common for first stage in the design of most amps in the 50's with a choke and second and some times third staged used. Instructive as usual nice video.
Probably my favourite Mesa and the only one I'd ever consider owning again. Good to know it's one of the better ones internally. Diodes auto selects at 100 watts and rectifier at 10 watts. So 50 watts is the only one where it's selectable.
You should try an Electra Dyne. It has the Lonestar cleans, but with two really great gain channels. Sadly it's been out of production for several years.
@@rigorhead01 Always been curious about that one. Have you compared the cleans directly by any chance? I've read it's a very bassy amp. Hard to know though.
@@bugeyedmudafuka2 it's a very linear amp, which can be construed as bassy compared to a Marshall, which pretty much has no bass. It's like a Marshall's gain structure, but full-range. All you have to do is turn down the bass if it's too much. It's a loud, very touch sensitive amp. It's my favorite.
Great video as always Lyle! Always appreciate your explanations and patience with these Mesa’s. Did you ever show the Mesa studio 22 completed? I seen pt 1 and 2 but never heard how the story ended. Thanks!
Nice work! It seems Mesa amps are hit and miss from a quality standpoint. I was looking at the Mesa California Tweed. Have you had a chance to look at one of those yet by chance??
It's crazy - a Marshall was always regarded and priced as such as a working man's amp. Mesa Boogies were originally "boutique" amps carrying a boutique price, now it seems that the prices have remained but the reliability has suffered greatly. A bit like BMWs... It is extremely difficult these days to get value for money. It must be a nightmare for gigging musicians to have amps failing on tour - not all Ends can afford to have 2-3 spare ones...
I have 2 Lonestar classics, both date back to probably around 2007ish, I noticed the other day when one seemed to have more sag than normal that I was getting no audible change to the sound when switching from Diode to Tube Rectification, so I A/Bd it with my second head and found the same thing! What could be causing this? In my experience with this amp if the rectifier tube goes out it’s very evident and not pleasant so I doubt that is the issue. And what could cause an issue with sag if set to diode? Thoughts?
Hi. I have old Lonestar classic. I have problem with reverb . When i add reverb on clean ch , its change all eq from ch. More treble and presence... when turn off reverb, its more better and punchy sound with midds. You maybe know what is? Tnx
i work with 2 lonestars on live gigs, these amps failed a lot(usually fuses and/or tubes) when they were new so we had to send them for repair and wait 3 weeks every time. i always carry 2 fuses glued inside the amp ,but sometimes it's not enough so if you want to be safe a spare amp is needed...on average our 2 fender twins needed service every 5 years, the hotrod deluxe every 3 years and the lonestar every 5 gigs. it sounds great but it's hard to change habits for working musicians that are used to fenders or marshalls that are more common in backline gear. so after getting some long faces from musicians i like and sound engineers("it's too modern/hifi sounding") and some problems like redplating in the middle of a live show we've stopped using them. from my experience ,for live gigs it's better to invest in upgrading something simple that everybody knows and used to like the hotrod or dsl (getting a better speaker, vintage preamp tubes )than buying a high end amp that sounds better in stock form.
Very likely Sylvania. They were on of the last US tube manufacturers and they had the last US DOD contracts for common, non nuclear trigger tube types. They are really, really good tubes and with todays new manufactured prices they are a good value. I’d rather spend 50% (sometimes the exact same)more to have tubes that lasted 4 to 10 times longer.
Look for a manufacturer's code on the glass bottles. 328 was the code for Sylvania and typically they had yellow lettering. 274 is RCA, and 188 is the code for GE ( GE tubes will usually have little dots etched in the glass that look sort of like Braille).
Your definitely guide on my search for a good amp .. I know you like John Suhrs work .. Have you had the opportunity to work on the Suhr Bella by any chance ?
Matching doesn’t have to be exact. Just enough that you get common mode cancellation so all ripple and heater noise is rejected and that no one tube is drawing too much or too little current. Within that window, go for it.
I've stayed away from Mesa amps for all the "quirkery." Everytime I see someone crack one open I cringe. Most everything I see people get into I have this huge disappointed feeling. Especially when I fully expect amps made in mid 60's and early 70's to outlast what's currently made. I like how you try to keep it original with a little mod here and there.
Pretty lame how Mesa continues to layout their amps with a complete disregard for service work. That can’t not know what a drag it is to repair their amps. I just replaced a effects loop jack in a Mesa and it required removing 72 nuts, washers, screws, knobs plus 4 boards as three boards obstructed removal of the board with the loop. Seriously backed up my bench. Considering refusing Mesa amps beyond a re-tube
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Very underrated amp, despite all the issues, those sound fantastic.
"That big thump when you power it off? Totally normal." That one had me laughing. At the end of a rough day, nothing is better than a laugh. Thanks a million, Lyle.
I had an early 112 lonestar. I got it used. The speaker had voicecoil rub, so the store replaced that for me. Then 5 minutes after getting it home, a power tube blew, and took out the screen resistors. All told, it was in the shop 3 of the first 4 weeks I owned it. I traded it back to the store and got something else. I still think it’s one of the best clean tones I’ve ever had.
Thanks for the vid. I play professionally, a range of styles from jazz,blues,soul,classic rock, funk. I have an LSC head and love it, but don’t play it a lot these days as I don’t need the loud headroom often and use the lightweight option of my Mesa Express 5:25 10” combo (also great and versatile) or a modeller direct to PA. I’ve owned quite a few Mesa products (studio preamp, studio .22 combo, Simulclass 295 Power amp). They are clearly much more complex than many other amps and have not been designed as easy to work on. They probably have also under-specked on some components which is a shame to hear. I might have been lucky to have had no reliability problems, but I might also be a very careful owner who takes care of my gear and regularly checks that things are clean, tight and tidy. Happy music making everyone!😊
Congratulations on saving this amp. With your upgrades it is usable and will last a long time.
It is funny that I just wrote on a post yesterday that I loved the sound of the Lonestar, but every one that I have ever heard was really noisy (buzzy), and I wondered if someone might take a cap and wire or something and send such to ground or something. Your work here certainly made this one quiet as can be. I'm going to hang on to this video in case I ever do get one.... I'll know what to do to it. Big thanks!!!
Great work. It looks like a different company did the board layout. Sounds pretty good 👍
The expectation that engineering drawings will match physical reality is a little like beating the 50% odds that a MacDonalds drive through will deliver what was ordered. It is still better than the odds their shake machine is working.
If a schematic is inaccurate, especially when deliberately so…
I’ve been using backline Lonestars for years. My fav big stage amp ever. I can only recall a couple failed units over hundreds of shows. I find Mesas to be pretty reliable overall…but I’m just a guitar player. 😅
I bought a blue bronco Mesa Lonestar Classic 212 Combo when they first came out. It has served me well for years on tons of gigs. The only issue is it weighs a ton. 🎸👍
What I have learned from watching this channel. Basically all other the Friedman and so others building there amps cheap and design them to fail along the road.
I have a early Lone Star (LSC) head. It’s been all over North America and worked night after night. My amp has never traveled without its road case. I have been very proactive with maintenance on the amp.
I never really liked tube rectifier in the Lonestar. Some boutique amp guy used SS rectifier in his amps.
I’ve heard there are some modifications to the LSC. It’s been a good sounding amp, which I’m using as the ubiquitous pedal platform. Since I don’t have access to Mesa Repair anymore, I’m going to look into having the amp getting some parts replaced. Thanks
If the B+ first filter cap exceeds the recommended max value, one trick (instead of lowering cap value) to make rectifier tube's life a bit easier is to add small (10-30 ohms) resistor between rectifier and the filter cap to limit peak currents a bit. Or it is possible to add two series resistors to rectifier anode (input) circuit as well. Rectifier tube loves either option.
I have a Lonestar like this one. It’s not faulty and has been super reliable and sounds amazing. I’d say it’s about 5-7ish years old… what would you say needs modding to keep it this way or pre-emotive servicing.
Thanks for the content
Sooo... Funny!! Reliable & Mesa in the same sentence!!!
Jan will live up to about 115% the spec sheet for current peaks . New stock would spec no more than 32 mfd for a long life. For tube rectifiers 8 mfd was much more common for first stage in the design of most amps in the 50's with a choke and second and some times third staged used. Instructive as usual nice video.
Probably my favourite Mesa and the only one I'd ever consider owning again. Good to know it's one of the better ones internally. Diodes auto selects at 100 watts and rectifier at 10 watts. So 50 watts is the only one where it's selectable.
You should try an Electra Dyne. It has the Lonestar cleans, but with two really great gain channels. Sadly it's been out of production for several years.
@@rigorhead01 Always been curious about that one. Have you compared the cleans directly by any chance? I've read it's a very bassy amp. Hard to know though.
@@bugeyedmudafuka2 it's a very linear amp, which can be construed as bassy compared to a Marshall, which pretty much has no bass. It's like a Marshall's gain structure, but full-range. All you have to do is turn down the bass if it's too much. It's a loud, very touch sensitive amp. It's my favorite.
Great video as always Lyle! Always appreciate your explanations and patience with these Mesa’s.
Did you ever show the Mesa studio 22 completed? I seen pt 1 and 2 but never heard how the story ended. Thanks!
Nice work! It seems Mesa amps are hit and miss from a quality standpoint. I was looking at the Mesa California Tweed. Have you had a chance to look at one of those yet by chance??
What’s your opinion on the old Musicman amps? not sure if you’ve done one on here, they’re quite similar to classic Fenders aren’t they?
It's crazy - a Marshall was always regarded and priced as such as a working man's amp. Mesa Boogies were originally "boutique" amps carrying a boutique price, now it seems that the prices have remained but the reliability has suffered greatly. A bit like BMWs... It is extremely difficult these days to get value for money. It must be a nightmare for gigging musicians to have amps failing on tour - not all Ends can afford to have 2-3 spare ones...
I have 2 Lonestar classics, both date back to probably around 2007ish, I noticed the other day when one seemed to have more sag than normal that I was getting no audible change to the sound when switching from Diode to Tube Rectification, so I A/Bd it with my second head and found the same thing! What could be causing this? In my experience with this amp if the rectifier tube goes out it’s very evident and not pleasant so I doubt that is the issue. And what could cause an issue with sag if set to diode? Thoughts?
Any tips on lowering the noise floor hiss/hum from a Fillmore 25?
Hi. I have old Lonestar classic. I have problem with reverb . When i add reverb on clean ch , its change all eq from ch. More treble and presence... when turn off reverb, its more better and punchy sound with midds.
You maybe know what is? Tnx
My handle lugs have had the back of the screws fall into the amp...how exactly do you remove the circuit board???
Pulling my hair out trying to locate the 82k R156 bias resistor ~ can you help?
What is the purpose of that hugh resistences of 25w. They are not in the schematic.
Did you get any feedback on the amp from the customer after the work done thx
i work with 2 lonestars on live gigs, these amps failed a lot(usually fuses and/or tubes) when they were new so we had to send them for repair and wait 3 weeks every time. i always carry 2 fuses glued inside the amp ,but sometimes it's not enough so if you want to be safe a spare amp is needed...on average our 2 fender twins needed service every 5 years,
the hotrod deluxe every 3 years and the lonestar every 5 gigs. it sounds great but it's hard to change habits for working musicians that are used to fenders or marshalls that are more common in backline gear. so after getting some long faces from musicians i like and sound engineers("it's too modern/hifi sounding") and some problems like redplating in the middle of a live show we've stopped using them. from my experience ,for live gigs it's better to invest in upgrading something simple that everybody knows and used to like the hotrod or dsl (getting a better speaker, vintage preamp tubes )than buying a high end amp that sounds better in stock form.
Got me thinking. I've got some old Made in USA Peavey Tubes from 84-85. Was wondering who made them and where? 12AX7s, 6L6.
Very likely Sylvania. They were on of the last US tube manufacturers and they had the last US DOD contracts for common, non nuclear trigger tube types. They are really, really good tubes and with todays new manufactured prices they are a good value.
I’d rather spend 50% (sometimes the exact same)more to have tubes that lasted 4 to 10 times longer.
Look for a manufacturer's code on the glass bottles. 328 was the code for Sylvania and typically they had yellow lettering. 274 is RCA, and 188 is the code for GE ( GE tubes will usually have little dots etched in the glass that look sort of like Braille).
Your definitely guide on my search for a good amp ..
I know you like John Suhrs work .. Have you had the opportunity to work on the Suhr Bella by any chance ?
Thanks! Not yet but I hope to show one on the channel.
@@PsionicAudio looking forward to seeing an in dept look on that .. thanks man 😎
Do you have any thoughts or experiences with the 25w Badlander?
I’m considering getting one for the studio.
Make the smart choice. Get an ENGL Fireball 25 instead. ( FYI: it has a great clean channel )
I've heard one amp tech suggest that a slight mismatch in the output may be desirable. Maybe not for a pure clean tone, but for 'dirty'. Thoughts?
Matching doesn’t have to be exact. Just enough that you get common mode cancellation so all ripple and heater noise is rejected and that no one tube is drawing too much or too little current.
Within that window, go for it.
Have you seen a Triple Crown or Badlander? I'm curious how much their designs are changing recently, especially post-Gibson.
I can't imagine them getting any better. Would be fun to see tho. ( I wouldn't be surprised to see CHINA pcb's. ) LoL!
I've stayed away from Mesa amps for all the "quirkery." Everytime I see someone crack one open I cringe. Most everything I see people get into I have this huge disappointed feeling. Especially when I fully expect amps made in mid 60's and early 70's to outlast what's currently made.
I like how you try to keep it original with a little mod here and there.
Pretty lame how Mesa continues to layout their amps with a complete disregard for service work. That can’t not know what a drag it is to repair their amps. I just replaced a effects loop jack in a Mesa and it required removing 72 nuts, washers, screws, knobs plus 4 boards as three boards obstructed removal of the board with the loop. Seriously backed up my bench. Considering refusing Mesa amps beyond a re-tube
I wouldn't have a mesa , if my ass had room for a battleship
Being the least knowledgeable here, when I see to much, "stuff" cramed in some of these amps, its confusing.