going through your videos from the beginning. Even at this point in your life, you are still very knowledgable. Less of a jokester, more straight and to the point, but somehow still amazing to watch. Perhaps slightly less entertaining, but this is still worth it. People need to understand you really know your stuff (because you do)
Wow Tony. I love the detail, yet the simplicity of your videos. Outstanding! I appreciate the detail of how to setup the dial indicator for this arrangement. I learned some new stuff tonight. For someone such as myself with a high machining interest which has an extensive amount of woodworking lathe work, yet minimal hours behind metal machining equipment, your videos are a true gift. I love them all. Thank you.
I think lots of things I do are self evident, but others have questions, so glad you did the explanation. I missed you saying anything in the first one on this attachment! To me, this is your first video, the other 2 (the foot pedal one and the first taper one) were warming up to speaking in it, which I'm very grateful you did! Thanks for all the entertainment, nearly seen them all now.
I'm a few years late but this answered several questions I had about taper attachments but was afraid to ask. Thank Tony, Your videos have gotten so much better over time, but even this old video contains valuable information conveyed in a professional manner.
Very impressed with your production quality, by your third video. Apart from the small light issue with the dial indicator, it was great, and almost up to current videos standard, which is some of the best on RUclips, and I've watched a lot (of other makers, as well as yours).
Wow. It's amazing what 7 years does to the quality of your videos. There was nothing wrong with this video, but certainly more of your personality comes through in your Covid-era videos.
Hi mate. Thanks for that. I have a taper attachment on my late, and was not sure what to loosen to make it work. Now I know. Thanks for the thorough explanation.
Tony I cannot believe how polished your presentations have become in seven years. Congratulations. Hope you're recovering from your recent loss. My sincere condolences. Re the video, I don't have a taper attachment but use the tailstock instead. For Morse tapers I set a fixed center in the headstock bore and a revolving center in the tailstock. I have a commercially produced Morse taper mandrel that I insert between the centers, move the tailstock over and indicate on the taper. Once that's established you have your taper set. Of course Your stock needs to be the same length or it will be off but it works for the most part. To cut internal tapers I use the compound and indicate it to a sample taper held in the collet chuck on a piece of suitable drill rod or known dowel pin.
Great idea, can come in very handy! On the guide bar you welded together, you could go with a larger dia. And just cut flats on the ends, and for each time you use the attachment scribe a line, and stamp the angle for future reference. Thank you enjoyed watching!
Why not split the follower bearing horizontally and make a split bearing shell like an automotive con rod big end. That way you can compensate for wear by just making a new bearing shell or rub a few thou off the cap side to tighten things up. Bearings from a B&S lawnmower engine might fit. Just an idea. I had explored the use of a linear bearing and shaft from chiny land for the basis of a taper attachment but haven't pursued it yet.
A very clever piece of kit- I see possibilities for turning quite complex shapes multiple times using variations on the guide bar idea. Thanks again-you turn out some excellent videos which stimulate my creativity enormously.
Thank you Gregor.. yes, lots of possibilities. Have a look at "hydraulic lathe copiers" -- pretty much what you are describing, but with the oily mess. :)
Very helpful video sequence. I am in the process of planning a lathe taper attachment for my lathe. Your program has made my job so much easier. Thank you.
My how you have grown. LOL this was clear and concise . But your newer stuff Has all the sarcasm and witty add-ons that make it so much more fun to watch. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos
Thanks Tony, Not sure how I missed this until now but it's another descriptive explanation of how something works and how to build one. I wasn't thinking of a taper attachment when I stumbled onto this video - but now I want to make one. I'm sure I'll think of a reason why I need it while I make one :)
I'm a machinist with about 12 yrs exp, I found myself doing manual work again and didn't even know about taper attachments until I started investigating turning a tapered npt
That is cleaver! I believe a variation on this theme would solve my problem of making concave and convex curves. I saw a DIY tool somewhere here, but could never find it again. Thank You for the inspiration. Please continue inspiring us with other videos. JD
Still awesome to still watching your vids all these years later. I actually just watched and old abom vid about his taper attachment on the monarch lathe. I gotta say, man, whatever you do for your 9-5 gig, you aren't making enough. Always thought your ability to solve problems was inspiring. I am an R&D tech for a big supplier of the manufacturing industry, focusing mainly on oem conveyor systems that run belts made from PVC, PU, Polyolefin, and a few other unrelated to that genre of materials such as rubber, leather, etc. If you aren't in R&D making booku cheddar the technology sector is missing out, and humanity will suffer because of it.
Great Video! Very clear and easy to follow. There is an old saying "just like a bought one"! Very professional looking job even if you made it in short time. Superb job!!
Absolutely brilliant. I love watching other machinist home engineering tricks. I'm a CNC mill machinist at day, but a home tinker nutt at night and love seeing other fellow machinist showing their tricks. It keeps our trade alive and strong. So thanks for the video. Good invention. You should patten that and sell it to a tooling store. I've made home made thread mill tools that I've sold to CW rod before. They will buy a design and market it for you if it's a major hit.
Thank you TOT. I have been looking for a d.i.y. taper attachment that appeals for a while, this is it. Cheers, and keep up the great informative videos.
Thanks for posting this! Nice build and the thought of making a template tracer is a good one! I use my metal lathe on plastic from time to time and tracing a template while cutting plastic would be handy!
Good, well great video actually. I understood the basic principle of a taper attachment. Wasn't sure how to disengage the cross slide nut. Thanks for doing this. Ill make one for myself now.
KUDOS, you sir have a great mind. I love all of your projects.... and humor. By the way I always use a cheap digital angle finder to set up my work. I zero it out on the table the use it as a reference.
Great share, a whole new dimension for the lathe. I saw there is even a taper attachment for the Atlas 10" lathe. You only need this for long tapers as the compound can be set up for shorter lengths, whatever the range of the compound is.
Cool simple job. You gave me some good ideas as you talked. A travel thread Double Nut to lock down) instead of slot, and then angle could be fine tuned by turning nut instead of hammer . And brass could be removed if threaded on fixed end. Also Instead of mounting to back of cross slide could be mounted to top of slide end with a flat or L angle-- if a guy does not have access- because up against wall with no access. But hey- i would have never thought of modifications without your video with visual building and explaining..... NICE JOB! You're a genius,
Nice job on your taper attachment. You could slot the T attachment that bolts to the rear end of your cross slide and use a washer under the bolt head that connects to the bronze bushing block rather than the series of holes. But, of course, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Ever make one Rick? My lathe came with one (shop built) I have yet to use it but have been thinking about making some MT2 blanks. Our compounds dont have enuff travel :(
Nope. One of those "someday" projects. I was thinking about it back then because my local junk...er...tool dealer had an incomplete Atlas one for sale.
Hello, Now the challenge would be to design a chip guard that fits out around the taper attachment. Kind of screws up all my racks on the back wall that the lathe is against. I won't be able to reach them when I attach my taper guide. This old Tony being This old Tony I expect one of your upcoming projects will be half nuts for the cross slide so you can engage and disengage without unbolting the nut! Nice video. Doug
It would be easy to use some bearings for the cross-slide guide on a piece of square stock or even a milled guide for eccentric shapes. Although im having a hard time imagining what it could be used for cutting an S shape. Maybe a pointless vase lol. More of the purpose of the thought is that square stock could be used easily as well. I have a little old atlas with 12” swing for projects and have been pondering making one of these for a while. I’m 90% through building a tool-post drill for making some indexing plates for my dividing head. Maybe this will be my next tooling project. Love these videos.
Excellent idea. The only thing I would like to watch how it in action. It will be so much appreciate. Well I just found first part and watched it. Thanks.
The proper taper turning attachment still uses the nut for the cross slide - so that still works as normal ! The cross slide screw is different as it has a sliding spline drive from the handwheel so that the TTA can slide the screw as necessary. The slide on the proper TTA is also a dovetail like cross slide and top slide slides.
To replace the bushing, you could cut a new bushing in half and use the halves to press the old bushing out, gluing the new halves in with JB Weld and clamping the slider in your vice to take out the clearance - if you do not have a suitable welder. ...But then you could have threaded your shaft and ends and just unscrewed an end to replace the bushing. Or you could have used a split bushing in the first place and made the slider clearance adjustable with a split slider and an adjusting bolt. But by then we would be so old we would have forgotten what it was we intended to do with the taper tool in the first place.
I can see the taper attachment being useful for long tapers, but for turning shorter pieces, you can turn your compound rest to match the angle of the taper and use it to cut the taper; you would of course lose the ability to use power feed to cut the taper though. Using the combination cross slide, compound rest, and of course carriage feed, you can also cut long tapers without a taper attachment.
Tony,to save replacing the bronze bush,why not drill and tap the worn bush with brass screws with lock nuts,adjust the screws until you get a firm sliding fit.
With common tapers can you drill a set pin hole on the adjustable slide and have a set pin to lock it into place so you don’t have to use a dial indicator every time or are their too many variables taking it off and on to guarantee accuracy?
How about a nice wide attachment for the indicator probe? Something that’s rigid and flat and can ride the widest part of the work for you so you don’t have to find center line just to dial in the angle?
Not sure if I can rouse a reply out of you, but do you still use this attachment? It looks more convenient than offsetting the tail stock, and turning center to center. BTW, this is Stan, your biggest fan
Hi Tony...about the bearing...maybe by cutting the left side of the arm and adding a threaded end...all that would need to change the gearing would be to unscrew it...Not sure if you could do it to that specific bar...you might have to make a new one... But nice job though...
Nice video, Tony! When setting up to find the taper to be turned, one could use the method outlined by Oxtoolco for squaring up the vice on the milling table. It is, in my humble opinion, the easiest and fastest method for this task. Keep these videos coming! Cheers!
Over the years , I've seen some highly developed machinery - very old machines with incredible accuracy , as well as functionality . . . Case in point - how about having a 'T - slot' arrangement on the back of the lathe bed for the taper attachment ? * That would make it infinitely adjustable ! ( One of my first lessons in machining , " If you can't make it accurate, make it adjustable " ;) ) Now back to the video . . . I'm only a couple minutes in > > > Hmm . . . I can also envision a graduated dial on the right side , (where the slot is . . . brain working overtime ? ) 'Got some great comments & suggestions - Thanks for posting this !
Love your taper attachment .. built one for my HF 7x10 mini. Welded a lot of the joints. Problem: I'm taper threading 1/2" CuNi pipe. I turn the taper first, but when I'm cutting the threads the tool screw keep snapping :-( using an AR Warner indexable HHS insert. thanks for any help
Where your cross feed nut mounts if you have a slot that the locking/mounting screw passes through instead of a hole that would allow you loosen the screw and use the taper attachment without removing the nut. Machine a shallow slot on top of the cross slide for a cover plate to keep the chips out. System used on the Hardinge HLV. As a bonus when going from a large to small diameter loosen the nut and slide the cross slide in or out as needed and relock the cross feed nut mounting screw
Thank you very much. One question : Is it possible in oder to copy the taper angle to replace the indicator by a piece of metal ended with a ball bearing in order to reverse the action of the taper attachment. If the taper nut is loose, will the movement of the cross slide along the part set the angle bar to be parallel to the taper in the spindle ? Then the angle can be lock. Great video thanks again
That is way better than estimating angles with compound, would you think that 6061 aluminum would be rigid enough for this setup? Thanks for your great videos, I'm a novice machinist and have learned a lot from yourself and others.
What if instead of using cold rolled steel shaft and a bronze bearing, try building a straight guide shaft from 1x1" square stock. Then for the linkage that connects the guide shaft and the cross slide, maybe build a sliding carriage that is a two piece design. The carriage could have 2 roller bearings per side on both sides that follow the guide shaft. Easier said than done I'm sure but there's always a few other options.
When you're done with your taper and want to reset to just a normal straight cut, do you have to adjust the taper angle and fully indicate it back to parallel? Or is there some trick to just disengage the taper?
going through your videos from the beginning. Even at this point in your life, you are still very knowledgable. Less of a jokester, more straight and to the point, but somehow still amazing to watch. Perhaps slightly less entertaining, but this is still worth it. People need to understand you really know your stuff (because you do)
So true I’m going back threw and I forgot he started on cardboard. It’s so weird not seeing the welding table in the background of every shot
Wow looking back at this after watching Tony for years and years, you really realize how much he's changed over the years...
Wow Tony. I love the detail, yet the simplicity of your videos. Outstanding! I appreciate the detail of how to setup the dial indicator for this arrangement. I learned some new stuff tonight. For someone such as myself with a high machining interest which has an extensive amount of woodworking lathe work, yet minimal hours behind metal machining equipment, your videos are a true gift. I love them all. Thank you.
So strange watching old, pre-hilarity, videos.
Always great videos full of useful information.
Thanks for Tony-ing!
this popped up in my recommended videos.... you've changed man, you've changed.... :D
I was thinking exactly the same :)
RUclips like will do that to you.
Nah I bet its just he got more comfortable in front or behind in his case the camera
@@crippl3dhobnob this channel is why I bought a lathe
@@RUclipsforcedmetochangemyname same here
I think lots of things I do are self evident, but others have questions, so glad you did the explanation. I missed you saying anything in the first one on this attachment! To me, this is your first video, the other 2 (the foot pedal one and the first taper one) were warming up to speaking in it, which I'm very grateful you did! Thanks for all the entertainment, nearly seen them all now.
I'm a few years late but this answered several questions I had about taper attachments but was afraid to ask. Thank Tony, Your videos have gotten so much better over time, but even this old video contains valuable information conveyed in a professional manner.
Very impressed with your production quality, by your third video. Apart from the small light issue with the dial indicator, it was great, and almost up to current videos standard, which is some of the best on RUclips, and I've watched a lot (of other makers, as well as yours).
Some 5 years on, it is impressive to see how you have grown as a creator, this piece is a solid work strong on fundamentals.
After watching g a lot of your newer videos, and now, this one. I can say with confidence, that you haven’t aged a day.
TOT sure has come a long way in production quality and delivery from these early videos!
Wow. It's amazing what 7 years does to the quality of your videos. There was nothing wrong with this video, but certainly more of your personality comes through in your Covid-era videos.
Hi mate. Thanks for that. I have a taper attachment on my late, and was not sure what to loosen to make it work. Now I know. Thanks for the thorough explanation.
+Marcel Timmers My pleasure.
Tony I cannot believe how polished your presentations have become in seven years. Congratulations.
Hope you're recovering from your recent loss. My sincere condolences.
Re the video, I don't have a taper attachment but use the tailstock instead. For Morse tapers I set a fixed center in the headstock bore and a revolving center in the tailstock. I have a commercially produced Morse taper mandrel that I insert between the centers, move the tailstock over and indicate on the taper. Once that's established you have your taper set. Of course Your stock needs to be the same length or it will be off but it works for the most part.
To cut internal tapers I use the compound and indicate it to a sample taper held in the collet chuck on a piece of suitable drill rod or known dowel pin.
That is the best explanation of how one of these works that i have ever seen...............Thankyou
Great idea, can come in very handy! On the guide bar you welded together, you could go with a larger dia. And just cut flats on the ends, and for each time you use the attachment scribe a line, and stamp the angle for future reference. Thank you enjoyed watching!
Why not split the follower bearing horizontally and make a split bearing shell like an automotive con rod big end. That way you can compensate for wear by just making a new bearing shell or rub a few thou off the cap side to tighten things up. Bearings from a B&S lawnmower engine might fit. Just an idea.
I had explored the use of a linear bearing and shaft from chiny land for the basis of a taper attachment but haven't pursued it yet.
Your videos have always been so informative and FUN! Keep up the great work!
You did an outstanding job of explaining that. I'm now positive that even I can fabricobble a taper attachment for my lathe. Thank you very much.
A very clever piece of kit- I see possibilities for turning quite complex shapes multiple times using variations on the guide bar idea.
Thanks again-you turn out some excellent videos which stimulate my creativity enormously.
Thank you Gregor.. yes, lots of possibilities. Have a look at "hydraulic lathe copiers" -- pretty much what you are describing, but with the oily mess. :)
Very helpful video sequence. I am in the process of planning a lathe taper attachment for my lathe. Your program has made my job so much easier. Thank you.
My how you have grown. LOL this was clear and concise . But your newer stuff Has all the sarcasm and witty add-ons that make it so much more fun to watch. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos
If that doesn't inspire people to make their own, I don't know what will. Personally I can't wait to get started. Thank you.
Thanks Tony, Not sure how I missed this until now but it's another descriptive explanation of how something works and how to build one. I wasn't thinking of a taper attachment when I stumbled onto this video - but now I want to make one. I'm sure I'll think of a reason why I need it while I make one :)
I'm a machinist with about 12 yrs exp, I found myself doing manual work again and didn't even know about taper attachments until I started investigating turning a tapered npt
That is cleaver! I believe a variation on this theme would solve my problem of making concave and convex curves. I saw a DIY tool somewhere here, but could never find it again. Thank You for the inspiration. Please continue inspiring us with other videos. JD
Excellent description on how a taper attachment works. This has inspired me to make one for my Logan. Thanks
Still awesome to still watching your vids all these years later. I actually just watched and old abom vid about his taper attachment on the monarch lathe. I gotta say, man, whatever you do for your 9-5 gig, you aren't making enough. Always thought your ability to solve problems was inspiring. I am an R&D tech for a big supplier of the manufacturing industry, focusing mainly on oem conveyor systems that run belts made from PVC, PU, Polyolefin, and a few other unrelated to that genre of materials such as rubber, leather, etc. If you aren't in R&D making booku cheddar the technology sector is missing out, and humanity will suffer because of it.
Great Video! Very clear and easy to follow. There is an old saying "just like a bought one"! Very professional looking job even if you made it in short time. Superb job!!
it's so weird to hear tony being somber and serious instead of being a snarky man who karate chops metal in two
Absolutely brilliant. I love watching other machinist home engineering tricks. I'm a CNC mill machinist at day, but a home tinker nutt at night and love seeing other fellow machinist showing their tricks. It keeps our trade alive and strong. So thanks for the video. Good invention. You should patten that and sell it to a tooling store. I've made home made thread mill tools that I've sold to CW rod before. They will buy a design and market it for you if it's a major hit.
Just found this video. Absolute gold. Know this is an old thread but it’s new to me so thank you!!
Thank you TOT. I have been looking for a d.i.y. taper attachment that appeals for a while, this is it. Cheers, and keep up the great informative videos.
Doubt you'll ever see this but I'm proud of your confidence from here to 2018 you've become a natural
First class job,one of the best descriptive video's I have seen.
ronald walker you have an excellent way of explaining things.
Thanks for posting this! Nice build and the thought of making a template tracer is a good one! I use my metal lathe on plastic from time to time and tracing a template while cutting plastic would be handy!
Great video, I like the concept and may consider having the adjustment on a thread for fine tuning. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this video. This is just what I need for my turn of the century lathe.
Good, well great video actually. I understood the basic principle of a taper attachment. Wasn't sure how to disengage the cross slide nut. Thanks for doing this. Ill make one for myself now.
Good video! Simple solutions are always the best. Thanks for taking the time to post!
KUDOS, you sir have a great mind. I love all of your projects.... and humor. By the way I always use a cheap digital angle finder to set up my work. I zero it out on the table the use it as a reference.
Nice project Tony. Proof, once again that the quality of outcome is directly purportional to quality of setup.
Great share, a whole new dimension for the lathe. I saw there is even a taper attachment for the Atlas 10" lathe. You only need this for long tapers as the compound can be set up for shorter lengths, whatever the range of the compound is.
Cool simple job. You gave me some good ideas as you talked. A travel thread Double Nut to lock down) instead of slot, and then angle could be fine tuned by turning nut instead of hammer . And brass could be removed if threaded on fixed end. Also Instead of mounting to back of cross slide could be mounted to top of slide end with a flat or L angle-- if a guy does not have access- because up against wall with no access. But hey- i would have never thought of modifications without your video with visual building and explaining..... NICE JOB! You're a genius,
You have a gift, Tony. Thanks for sharing your talent.
This aged very well
Where in the world did you learn all of this. I am amazed by every video I watch!
Nice job on your taper attachment. You could slot the T attachment that bolts to the rear end of your cross slide and use a washer under the bolt head that connects to the bronze bushing block rather than the series of holes. But, of course, there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Very timely. I was just now considering whether to buy or build an attachment for my lathe. I think I'll build. Thanks!
Ever make one Rick? My lathe came with one (shop built) I have yet to use it but have been thinking about making some MT2 blanks. Our compounds dont have enuff travel :(
Nope. One of those "someday" projects. I was thinking about it back then because my local junk...er...tool dealer had an incomplete Atlas one for sale.
Rick Rose How about now?
It’s been another year already. :-p
OG Old Tony in action... you have come a long way sir.
:45 seemed self evident to you because you're a genius.
Excellent mate, thanks for sharing. I'm gonna build me one for sure.
Thank you for the best and clearest explanation and presentation!!
Hello, Now the challenge would be to design a chip guard that fits out around the taper attachment. Kind of screws up all my racks on the back wall that the lathe is against. I won't be able to reach them when I attach my taper guide. This old Tony being This old Tony I expect one of your upcoming projects will be half nuts for the cross slide so you can engage and disengage without unbolting the nut! Nice video. Doug
It would be easy to use some bearings for the cross-slide guide on a piece of square stock or even a milled guide for eccentric shapes. Although im having a hard time imagining what it could be used for cutting an S shape. Maybe a pointless vase lol. More of the purpose of the thought is that square stock could be used easily as well. I have a little old atlas with 12” swing for projects and have been pondering making one of these for a while. I’m 90% through building a tool-post drill for making some indexing plates for my dividing head. Maybe this will be my next tooling project. Love these videos.
Looks wonderful. Great job. I'm sure it works as good as it looks. Thumbs up !!
thanks for the video and the effort it took to make it.
Glad I found this I'm wanting to make one for my Logan and your version is perfect and simple,, thanks
Excellent idea. The only thing I would like to watch how it in action. It will be so much appreciate. Well I just found first part and watched it. Thanks.
4 years later this information is still helping people get started! Yep I'm another person!
Ingenious, yet so simple and 'obvious'. nice job!
Well done! Really good idea with the dial mounted on the Clamping plate!
cheers from Austria
+Peterpath88 Thank you!
Excellent video on using a taper attachment.
John
Love this old stuff tony!
The proper taper turning attachment still uses the nut for the cross slide - so that still works as normal ! The cross slide screw is different as it has a sliding spline drive from the handwheel so that the TTA can slide the screw as necessary. The slide on the proper TTA is also a dovetail like cross slide and top slide slides.
killer video my friend! now I have a rainy day project for tomorrow.
To replace the bushing, you could cut a new bushing in half and use the halves to press the old bushing out, gluing the new halves in with JB Weld and clamping the slider in your vice to take out the clearance - if you do not have a suitable welder. ...But then you could have threaded your shaft and ends and just unscrewed an end to replace the bushing. Or you could have used a split bushing in the first place and made the slider clearance adjustable with a split slider and an adjusting bolt. But by then we would be so old we would have forgotten what it was we intended to do with the taper tool in the first place.
turn one end down to allow the bushing to slide right off? ohdang, year old video lol
Humble beginnings. :D
I can see the taper attachment being useful for long tapers, but for turning shorter pieces, you can turn your compound rest to match the angle of the taper and use it to cut the taper; you would of course lose the ability to use power feed to cut the taper though. Using the combination cross slide, compound rest, and of course carriage feed, you can also cut long tapers without a taper attachment.
Very nice job I'm going to make one for myself as I can see lots of potential for this
Thanks for sharing your video
you an grind the fixed side so it slides off, but is still useable, me thinks. thanks for making these videos, I love them!
I'm going to make it on my little chinese mini lathe, very similar to the one you had time ago.
I'll send pictures ..or do you prefer a video?
Did it happen?
Excellent, thanks for sharing and the thorough explanation.
2:57 Can’t believe I missed the This Old Tony forearm reveal so early in your RUclips career
You said a lot in a short amount of time. I need one, too.
Excellent Video!!!
Can't you put a long threaded rod on the mobile side and that way you can adjust ?
Need an attachment, make an attachment. Ingenious design.
I just stumbled over this video in 2022 and i am really curios, 8 years later, how many times have you used this in the past 8 years?
Very nice piece of kit, I like it and will likely make one someday when the need arises. Take it easy, Aloha...Chuck
Tony,to save replacing the bronze bush,why not drill and tap the worn bush with brass screws with lock nuts,adjust the screws until you get a firm sliding fit.
I just found your channel! Awesome work shop (mines getting there). Awesome videos. Thank you.
Nice clear explanation.
With common tapers can you drill a set pin hole on the adjustable slide and have a set pin to lock it into place so you don’t have to use a dial indicator every time or are their too many variables taking it off and on to guarantee accuracy?
How about a nice wide attachment for the indicator probe? Something that’s rigid and flat and can ride the widest part of the work for you so you don’t have to find center line just to dial in the angle?
Do you have plans? I love your design.
Thanks for sharing, I need to make one for my lathe...
Not sure if I can rouse a reply out of you, but do you still use this attachment? It looks more convenient than offsetting the tail stock, and turning center to center.
BTW, this is Stan, your biggest fan
Hi Tony...about the bearing...maybe by cutting the left side of the arm and adding a threaded end...all that would need to change the gearing would be to unscrew it...Not sure if you could do it to that specific bar...you might have to make a new one...
But nice job though...
Interesting idea John, thanks!
Much appreciate the video - good work. :)
great videos i have learned so much. thank you.
Nice video, Tony! When setting up to find the taper to be turned, one could use the method outlined by Oxtoolco for squaring up the vice on the milling table. It is, in my humble opinion, the easiest and fastest method for this task. Keep these videos coming! Cheers!
Over the years , I've seen some highly developed machinery - very old machines with incredible accuracy , as well as functionality . . .
Case in point - how about having a 'T - slot' arrangement on the back of the lathe bed for the taper attachment ? * That would make it infinitely adjustable ! ( One of my first lessons in machining , " If you can't make it accurate, make it adjustable " ;) ) Now back to the video . . . I'm only a couple minutes in > > > Hmm . . . I can also envision a graduated dial on the right side , (where the slot is . . . brain working overtime ? ) 'Got some great comments & suggestions - Thanks for posting this !
Thanks George, and thanks for watching!
georgewocosk
Love your taper attachment .. built one for my HF 7x10 mini. Welded a lot of the joints. Problem: I'm taper threading 1/2" CuNi pipe. I turn the taper first, but when I'm cutting the threads the tool screw keep snapping :-( using an AR Warner indexable HHS insert. thanks for any help
Would be interesting to see a protracter on the slotted side to show the taper angle.
Where your cross feed nut mounts if you have a slot that the locking/mounting screw passes through instead of a hole that would allow you loosen the screw and use the taper attachment without removing the nut. Machine a shallow slot on top of the cross slide for a cover plate to keep the chips out. System used on the Hardinge HLV. As a bonus when going from a large to small diameter loosen the nut and slide the cross slide in or out as needed and relock the cross feed nut mounting screw
interesting! That modification doesn't sound too difficult, either.
Thank you very much. One question :
Is it possible in oder to copy the taper angle to replace the indicator by a piece of metal ended with a ball bearing in order to reverse the action of the taper attachment. If the taper nut is loose, will the movement of the cross slide along the part set the angle bar to be parallel to the taper in the spindle ? Then the angle can be lock.
Great video thanks again
That is way better than estimating angles with compound, would you think that 6061 aluminum would be rigid enough for this setup? Thanks for your great videos, I'm a novice machinist and have learned a lot from yourself and others.
you should do a little bit of trig and mark on the slide part where the different angles are
What if instead of using cold rolled steel shaft and a bronze bearing, try building a straight guide shaft from 1x1" square stock. Then for the linkage that connects the guide shaft and the cross slide, maybe build a sliding carriage that is a two piece design. The carriage could have 2 roller bearings per side on both sides that follow the guide shaft. Easier said than done I'm sure but there's always a few other options.
When you're done with your taper and want to reset to just a normal straight cut, do you have to adjust the taper angle and fully indicate it back to parallel? Or is there some trick to just disengage the taper?
muchas gracias por compartir este vídeo me fue muy útil en mi trabajo
I'll say it, ToT, you've got a channel to be proud of!