I just wanted to come back to this vid and say thanks for posting it. For about 2 weeks my water would slowly (over the course of about 30 seconds) lose pressure, then go out. 30-60 seconds later it would pop back on. Then all the sudden it went out and was out for about 40 mins, came back on. The next morning same thing….went out and was out for about half hour. After watching a few videos I came back and watched this one several times, so yesterday I got the supplies and sure enough, when I took it apart that nipple was full of corrosion and stuff. I ended up putting a new gauge and pressure switch on as well simply because I had it apart, but it seems to be working great today….all for about $100 bucks in parts. Thanks again!
Bought a house in June 2022 that’s on a water well system. Everything seemed to be working fine but for about a week now we have been experiencing low water pressure. No high/low pressure or intermittent pressure, or surging, etc. Just steady low pressure. Pressure tank is a Perma Tank Hydro-Air PCM52 with the pressure switch and gauge on a manifold on top of the tank. Started troubleshooting. Turned off the power supply. Closed the shutoff valve to the house so the house lines stay pressurized. Drained the pressure tank through the hose bibb. I noticed the pressure gauge did not drop to zero psi, it stopped at around 10-15 psi. I did the knock test and the tank sounds empty. I can move the tank back and forth and don’t hear water swishing around inside so I’m fairly confident that it is empty. Released a bit of pressure from the shraeder valve on top of the tank and no water came out. Checked the pressure at the shraeder valve and the pressure was approximately 10 psi. We have a 30/50 Square D pressure switch so I pressured up the tank to 28 psi through the shraeder valve. I cleaned the contacts on the pressure switch and checked the voltage across the contacts (with the power on). Everything seems to be in order. Turned the power back on with the hose bibb still open and shutoff valve closed to flush out the gunk. Turned off the hose bibb after a couple minutes when the water cleared up. Pressure started building up inside the tank but very, very slowly and it peaked at around 34 psi after about 15 minutes of run time. Turned the power off again and repeated some of the steps with no luck. To make a long story short, the system is not pressuring up to 50 psi like it should. The pumps runs for a good bit but only builds pressure up to around 34 psi. I think the pump has been running excessively without turning off because the system cannot reach 50 psi. Do I have a water leak somewhere or is my pump failing? Power to the system is currently turned off so the pump doesn’t run all night. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
The pump could be old & worn out yes, but more likely, you have a broken fitting that is cracked. The connection between the pump and pipe is cracked and leaking out most of your pressure. Either way, the pump line must be pulled out the well.
@@h2omechanic Thanks for the feedback. I will reach out to a water well company. Having just bought the house recently, I don't know the history of the well or the age of the components. I will look around the yard too for leaks.
Follow up question. Generally speaking, how long should it take to pump from pump on at 30 psi to pump off at 50 psi? I know there are lots of factors but I’m trying to get an idea how long the pump should run. It’s taking 20 minutes just to get up to around 37 psi and then the pressure stops climbing. No visible leaks in the yard. I have 3 or 4 yard hydrants but I can isolate them.
Right, but what if you get a new pump, new switch and capacitor. And still having issues we weren’t having before replacement? We even got a new pressure tank as well
Normally if your having a issue & its all new. Then the tank has too much air in it for the type of switch that you have. Go find your tank & the air nipple on top of the tank, press that in for about 12-15 seconds. That will let out about 5psi of air from the tank, then use the water like normal and see if the issue is fixed.
@@h2omechanic I will try that. I watched a few of your videos last night and will let some air out. Also noticed the wires are wired red red one side ect. Which I also got from ur videos and will try that as well. Very insightful content. And very appreciated
Good morning sir just found your channel because I turned on my bathroom faucet and got bursts of air and dirty water went to check my system and the pressure gauge wont go over 20psi the pressure switch is stuck open also checked my tank and no water out of the air valve any help would be a God sent thank you sir and I hope your enjoying your Sunday
Thanks for the videos. Very helpful. Im having an issue with water pressure. Turning on faucet or shower, pressure is good but doesn’t maintain that pressure. Water pressure slows down. Then I’ll turn the faucet off for 30 seconds and turn back on to normal pressure again but it’ll slowly fade away again. I turned off breaker to pump and drained tank with faucets open. Wanted to check pressure switch and clear the nipple but water was spraying out when I unscrewed the nipple and pressure switch. Not sure if I missed something??
The water pressure gauge goes down because of the water pressure leak down problem. The automatic pressure switch just turns on and off the pump. With no house water leaks, the pressure goes down because of failure of seal in foot valve due to lime build up in the BOTTOM of the well .Either the expense of pulling out all the piping in the well is necessary , or just add a brass check valve near the water heater where the main water line comes in. The arrow has to face upward with correct water flow direction. There are special shark bites fittings and brass fittings to hook it up properly. Old trailers have old style type plastic piping called polybutalyne that requires the "gray" color inserts of the shark bites. There is a shark bite coupler that contains a check valve. The brass style check valve is about $50 and requires other fittings. Changing a pressure switch and cleaning the lower metal tube will not stop water pressure leak down if there are no house water leaks and valves are turned off.
You have great information, I just liked and subscribed. I’m new to deep wells and just ran into a major problem hoping you can help. My pump was waterlogged and I just got a new Johnson Controls 93B 1C air volume control. Before I could put it on my wife left the water hose running and now I’m not getting no water at all. I checked the breaker, control box and pressure switch and they all have power. Is there anything you recommend me doing before I call the well service company to come out? Any help will be greatly appreciated
Doubt this is my issue...idk. I have a pressure meter right above my well pump outside underground still reading 60psi. I cant see how. I emptied my system from the house to the well pump. I dont see this part, but ill look around.... do we not need to turn the water off? XD
We have a 5" pvc well that is 21 years old, goes down 86'. We've had a recent issue with sudden loss of all water pressure. Comes back a few minutes later. I've tested the bladder tank and replaced the pressure switch. Could the well be running dry???? How long would it take for the water level to recover?? Or is it most likely the nipple clogged??? Thank you!!!
Thanks for all the great videos, you've helped my family so much! Any chance you can do one on diagnosing a well that's running dry? My 75 year old, 75' deep well was acting up, so I turned it off. I have a light bulb spliced into the pressure switch to know when the pump is running. It wasn't turning off itself, I don't want to burn up pump again. Any other suggestions for dealing with water table issues? Thanks again!
A 75ft well is really shallow. There's not enough to work on & try to improve the flow. If your in a costal region, a drill company might be able to do an air lift (if its a screen casing well).
Do you see any issues with using a pressure switch without using a tank on a well only used for a sprinkler system? I know I can install a relay to work in conjunction with my sprinkler control, but I'd like to be able to open a spigot without having to turn on a watering zone. This is ONLY used for watering the yard and washing down the driveway and such..
So I have a shallow well. Last night I lost water. And my pump at the well house was constantly running. I pumped it up to 38-40 lbs to my bladder tank, which was on 0lbs psi before adding air and water started to work as normal. Woke up this am no water again and 0 lbs of pressure in bladder tank. And pump was working non stop. So I added 40 lbs and no water like night before. I then primmed the well line with water 3 gallons and their was a surge in line finally pump turned off and everything started to work as normal Is it a bad bladder tank? Or pump. Or pressure switch. Or the well filter ?
I got power to switch , replaced control box , pressure tank no water / pressure . Shrader valve shows 28 . My cut in and out is 30/50. New switch contacts are closed getting 240 across wires but no spark on contacts when I open and close ! Please help !
I have a bored old well. 1hp pump. We had a vicious cold snap. I replaced one line, thawed the well and pressure tank, replace the pressure gauge, got it to 50/30 and had great water pressure everywhere except the kitchen sink. I had nothing, checked for clogs nothing clogged. adjusted the pressure a little and got sink hot and cold pressure back, but lost the cold water in my bathtub ..The tub has awesome hot pressure but almost zero cold please help..THere are no leaks that I know of because I looked and the well isn't cycling on and off..Whats going on here?
The pump runs fun for 25 min until water in pressure tank runs out… then it takes 15 min to fill back up, so there is no water for 15 min. Is this a clogged pressure switch nipple?
My system takes water from a storage tank and pumps it into the house. I noticed my on demand water heater runs normally until the pump starts (centrifugal pump) and then drops out from what I believe is low pressure. The pressure switch is set for 20 - 40 psi. I drained the system to test the bladder tank settings. in draining the system pressure drops slowly from 40 psi to 30 and then collapses to 20 until the pump restarts. Is it a pressure switch problem worn pump (20 yrs old). This is a recent problem and my water heater (2 yrs old) just started acting up like this. Any ideas appreciated.
Mine was cloged,cleaned it and put new switch on,now water builds up to 25 to 30 psi with out switch turning on and thats it.got spark at contacts but wont kick on.help
In California no one runs straight off there well ever one has at least a 5000 gallon tank and the new house have to have 10k 5000 is for fire required by the state. Some people will have a by pass from the tank to the house and a booster pump set up or vfd to the house. No one wants to be out of water if something needs to be repaired on there well lol it really rare that someone run just off there well. 💯👍👌✌️💦🇺🇸🍻🥂
We have replaced the pressure switch, didn't work. Replaced the pump, didn't work. Now we're thinking about replacing the tank, hoping it works - but our current tank is also taking and holding air so I'm not sure.
I have a vertical deep well pump that is not priming and I my family has been without water for a week now. I don't know what to do. I've tried replacing the pressure switch, and replacing wire. Still no water
Hi. Great video. What about the relief valve on the tank tee, I thought If the switch got stacked and pressure builds up in the tank, the relief valves should pups (opens) and relieves the extra pressure
I’m fighting the same pro-blemish but the nipple is free and clear I’ve replaced several switches and a nipple. Bladder tank is good also I don’t get it
Is it freezing temps where you are right now? If so its likely froze. Turn off the pump breaker. Regardless, sparks means the pumps running, so it's not providing water, it's either a dry well due to a leak (Check your toilets) or the pipe going down the well has cracked & failed (you would have noticed sediment or low pressure prior to no water). Or it's frozen. Or the pumps so old it just can't lift water anymore (doubtful)
Bruh - This helped - I went down and tapped on that nipple and the pump kicked on right away. Not sure if it's a bad contact, but either way, it seems to have done something.
I'd like your opinion on using a safety line on a new submersible pump @ about 100 ft. Seems like a good idea, but I've read opinions against it. Also, do I need a SS check valve and a SS male adapter both ?
My dads well system doesnt even resemble anything ive seen. No sure way of test tank its from 1926 and its welded. our pressure switch doesnt even have a nipple
You no water in the title which is wrong because with a clogged pressure switch you’ll have intermittent supply with low pressure. Can you solve no water and pump getting current but not coming on?
So can you please answer this question. You kind of touched on it with a sudden drop of water pressure. My washing machine cuts off my pressure switch and doesn't kick the pump back on. Nothing else does, not the shower, not the tub, not the garden hose. Maybe it happens when I change the washing machine setting on "heavy bulky loads." And then I have to go up the driveway to prime the pump again. Should I increase the 30-50 spring with a couple of turns clockwise, or should I add a second bladder tank?
@@ct4074 I'd inspect the nipple below the switch and clean it out. Then at that time you can check the air in you tank & make sure it has around 25psi in it.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
my water was cutting off over and over but this video told me exactly what to do without spending any money. totally fixed now. thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for the second time!! I just followed this process again and fixed it myself. Once 2 years ago and again today.
Quick and to the point! Great explanation. Thank you!
Excellent. God bless.
Here in the UK, the main culprit for blocked nipples on pressure switches in hard water areas is calcium (limescale) build up. Great video H2o M!
Here in the U.S. Iron typically clogs the nipple. Crazy how difficult the minerals in water can cause so many issues!
best investment of a few minutes ever!!
i now actually understand how that damn switch works!!
Jesus loves you. You should take 666 out your name
Wow you saved me some $$. My problem Was exactly what you described in this video. Thank You!!
My man, just saved me time and $$$ Thank you.
Wonderful, amazing teacher
Thank you, I did everything you show in your video and it worked. I have water again. You are an expert. 🙌🙌👍👍👍👍💯💯💯💯
Thanks for sharing this!
Great,Great advice
Awesome, I love your video's. 👏
EXCELLENT Information *****
This was an awesome video to watch. Turns out i had gotten a ladybug caught between the two connection points preventing a connection. LOL.
I just wanted to come back to this vid and say thanks for posting it. For about 2 weeks my water would slowly (over the course of about 30 seconds) lose pressure, then go out. 30-60 seconds later it would pop back on. Then all the sudden it went out and was out for about 40 mins, came back on. The next morning same thing….went out and was out for about half hour. After watching a few videos I came back and watched this one several times, so yesterday I got the supplies and sure enough, when I took it apart that nipple was full of corrosion and stuff. I ended up putting a new gauge and pressure switch on as well simply because I had it apart, but it seems to be working great today….all for about $100 bucks in parts. Thanks again!
Bought a house in June 2022 that’s on a water well system. Everything seemed to be working fine but for about a week now we have been experiencing low water pressure. No high/low pressure or intermittent pressure, or surging, etc. Just steady low pressure. Pressure tank is a Perma Tank Hydro-Air PCM52 with the pressure switch and gauge on a manifold on top of the tank. Started troubleshooting. Turned off the power supply. Closed the shutoff valve to the house so the house lines stay pressurized. Drained the pressure tank through the hose bibb. I noticed the pressure gauge did not drop to zero psi, it stopped at around 10-15 psi. I did the knock test and the tank sounds empty. I can move the tank back and forth and don’t hear water swishing around inside so I’m fairly confident that it is empty. Released a bit of pressure from the shraeder valve on top of the tank and no water came out. Checked the pressure at the shraeder valve and the pressure was approximately 10 psi. We have a 30/50 Square D pressure switch so I pressured up the tank to 28 psi through the shraeder valve. I cleaned the contacts on the pressure switch and checked the voltage across the contacts (with the power on). Everything seems to be in order. Turned the power back on with the hose bibb still open and shutoff valve closed to flush out the gunk. Turned off the hose bibb after a couple minutes when the water cleared up. Pressure started building up inside the tank but very, very slowly and it peaked at around 34 psi after about 15 minutes of run time. Turned the power off again and repeated some of the steps with no luck. To make a long story short, the system is not pressuring up to 50 psi like it should. The pumps runs for a good bit but only builds pressure up to around 34 psi. I think the pump has been running excessively without turning off because the system cannot reach 50 psi. Do I have a water leak somewhere or is my pump failing? Power to the system is currently turned off so the pump doesn’t run all night. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks in advance and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
The pump could be old & worn out yes, but more likely, you have a broken fitting that is cracked. The connection between the pump and pipe is cracked and leaking out most of your pressure. Either way, the pump line must be pulled out the well.
@@h2omechanic Thanks for the feedback. I will reach out to a water well company. Having just bought the house recently, I don't know the history of the well or the age of the components. I will look around the yard too for leaks.
Follow up question. Generally speaking, how long should it take to pump from pump on at 30 psi to pump off at 50 psi? I know there are lots of factors but I’m trying to get an idea how long the pump should run. It’s taking 20 minutes just to get up to around 37 psi and then the pressure stops climbing. No visible leaks in the yard. I have 3 or 4 yard hydrants but I can isolate them.
@@cow7boy 30-40 seconds between cycles. You probably have a leak somewhere on the drop pipe. If you kill the power, does the water pressure drop to 0?
No, the pressure does not drop to 0 psi when I turn off the power. It holds steady and slowly drops when water is used in the house.
Right, but what if you get a new pump, new switch and capacitor. And still having issues we weren’t having before replacement? We even got a new pressure tank as well
Normally if your having a issue & its all new. Then the tank has too much air in it for the type of switch that you have. Go find your tank & the air nipple on top of the tank, press that in for about 12-15 seconds. That will let out about 5psi of air from the tank, then use the water like normal and see if the issue is fixed.
@@h2omechanic I will try that. I watched a few of your videos last night and will let some air out. Also noticed the wires are wired red red one side ect. Which I also got from ur videos and will try that as well. Very insightful content. And very appreciated
Short, sweet, and useful, information. Me and my family appreciate it 🙏
Hopefully its a functioning 75 psi relief valve at the tee just below the switch that gives if the pump keeps running.
Good morning sir just found your channel because I turned on my bathroom faucet and got bursts of air and dirty water went to check my system and the pressure gauge wont go over 20psi the pressure switch is stuck open also checked my tank and no water out of the air valve any help would be a God sent thank you sir and I hope your enjoying your Sunday
Thank you°°°
Thanks for the videos. Very helpful. Im having an issue with water pressure. Turning on faucet or shower, pressure is good but doesn’t maintain that pressure. Water pressure slows down. Then I’ll turn the faucet off for 30 seconds and turn back on to normal pressure again but it’ll slowly fade away again. I turned off breaker to pump and drained tank with faucets open. Wanted to check pressure switch and clear the nipple but water was spraying out when I unscrewed the nipple and pressure switch. Not sure if I missed something??
This is exactly what is happening to mine right now. 4/26/23
The water pressure gauge goes down because of the water pressure leak down problem. The automatic pressure switch just turns on and off the pump. With no house water leaks, the pressure goes down because of failure of seal in foot valve due to lime build up in the BOTTOM of the well .Either the expense of pulling out all the piping in the well is necessary , or just add a brass check valve near the water heater where the main water line comes in. The arrow has to face upward with correct water flow direction. There are special shark bites fittings and brass fittings to hook it up properly. Old trailers have old style type plastic piping called polybutalyne that requires the "gray" color inserts of the shark bites. There is a shark bite coupler that contains a check valve. The brass style check valve is about $50 and requires other fittings. Changing a pressure switch and cleaning the lower metal tube will not stop water pressure leak down if there are no house water leaks and valves are turned off.
Water heater temperature and pressure valve usually are the weak point.
Careful with that screwdriver, you could damage the switch
You have great information, I just liked and subscribed. I’m new to deep wells and just ran into a major problem hoping you can help. My pump was waterlogged and I just got a new Johnson Controls 93B 1C air volume control. Before I could put it on my wife left the water hose running and now I’m not getting no water at all. I checked the breaker, control box and pressure switch and they all have power. Is there anything you recommend me doing before I call the well service company to come out? Any help will be greatly appreciated
Can you take your pressure tank out of the warehouse flush it out from settlement and sand and then put it back in to the well
Doubt this is my issue...idk.
I have a pressure meter right above my well pump outside underground still reading 60psi.
I cant see how. I emptied my system from the house to the well pump.
I dont see this part, but ill look around.... do we not need to turn the water off? XD
We have a 5" pvc well that is 21 years old, goes down 86'. We've had a recent issue with sudden loss of all water pressure. Comes back a few minutes later. I've tested the bladder tank and replaced the pressure switch.
Could the well be running dry???? How long would it take for the water level to recover?? Or is it most likely the nipple clogged??? Thank you!!!
Thanks for all the great videos, you've helped my family so much! Any chance you can do one on diagnosing a well that's running dry?
My 75 year old, 75' deep well was acting up, so I turned it off. I have a light bulb spliced into the pressure switch to know when the pump is running. It wasn't turning off itself, I don't want to burn up pump again. Any other suggestions for dealing with water table issues?
Thanks again!
A 75ft well is really shallow. There's not enough to work on & try to improve the flow. If your in a costal region, a drill company might be able to do an air lift (if its a screen casing well).
Great video. Thank you. How could i contact you if you were willing to help me with a few questions about my situation???
Hwdracing@gmail.com email and shoot me your #. I'll text u b4 I call (when I have time)
Do you see any issues with using a pressure switch without using a tank on a well only used for a sprinkler system? I know I can install a relay to work in conjunction with my sprinkler control, but I'd like to be able to open a spigot without having to turn on a watering zone. This is ONLY used for watering the yard and washing down the driveway and such..
Even if it theoretically works, a kinked garden hose or something obstructing the flow too mouch will cause your pump to short cycle.
ornetboy3694
Awesome video thank you .do you get The water diviner .to find where the best place to drill
So I’m sold farm girl … isn’t there something to fix that problems because of the recurring issues
Love your channel and subscribed
So I have a shallow well.
Last night I lost water. And my pump at the well house was constantly running. I pumped it up to 38-40 lbs to my bladder tank, which was on 0lbs psi before adding air and water started to work as normal.
Woke up this am no water again and 0 lbs of pressure in bladder tank. And pump was working non stop. So I added 40 lbs and no water like night before. I then primmed the well line with water 3 gallons and their was a surge in line finally pump turned off and everything started to work as normal
Is it a bad bladder tank? Or pump. Or pressure switch.
Or the well filter ?
Been in home 10 years. 1 st 7 years no problems. Last 3 years seems well is not making enough water. Any advice?
I got power to switch , replaced control box , pressure tank no water / pressure . Shrader valve shows 28 . My cut in and out is 30/50. New switch contacts are closed getting 240 across wires but no spark on contacts when I open and close ! Please help !
Here in Ireland generally it's the build up of Iron in the switch which makes it malfunction. I would always strip down switch and clean it good.
Wacked mine with a hammer and the pressure jumped up. Not apart yet but as soon as i saw that calcium build up. I knew that would be a problem.
Help me please well issues
If the water from the well doesn’t stop flowing in what’s wrong
Mine shuts off and I give it a tap and boom it works again just sick of going down under the house to do it😂😂😂
I have a bored old well. 1hp pump. We had a vicious cold snap. I replaced one line, thawed the well and pressure tank, replace the pressure gauge, got it to 50/30 and had great water pressure everywhere except the kitchen sink. I had nothing, checked for clogs nothing clogged. adjusted the pressure a little and got sink hot and cold pressure back, but lost the cold water in my bathtub ..The tub has awesome hot pressure but almost zero cold please help..THere are no leaks that I know of because I looked and the well isn't cycling on and off..Whats going on here?
The pump runs fun for 25 min until water in pressure tank runs out… then it takes 15 min to fill back up, so there is no water for 15 min. Is this a clogged pressure switch nipple?
Never mind, I fixed it..pressure tank was too high..Lowered to 28 and everything works fine not sure how the pressure got so high in the tank
My system takes water from a storage tank and pumps it into the house. I noticed my on demand water heater runs normally until the pump starts (centrifugal pump) and then drops out from what I believe is low pressure. The pressure switch is set for 20 - 40 psi. I drained the system to test the bladder tank settings. in draining the system pressure drops slowly from 40 psi to 30 and then collapses to 20 until the pump restarts. Is it a pressure switch problem worn pump (20 yrs old). This is a recent problem and my water heater (2 yrs old) just started acting up like this. Any ideas appreciated.
The system should have a pressure relief valve that prevents any pipes from bursting
I have replaced the pressure switch ,cleaned tube it, made sure i had air pressure in storage tank and still cant get it. I need help!!!
Mine was cloged,cleaned it and put new switch on,now water builds up to 25 to 30 psi with out switch turning on and thats it.got spark at contacts but wont kick on.help
my pump is suting of if i wil use more than one foset at a time ,,i have new tank and plumbing,,,what can be a problem
In California no one runs straight off there well ever one has at least a 5000 gallon tank and the new house have to have 10k 5000 is for fire required by the state. Some people will have a by pass from the tank to the house and a booster pump set up or vfd to the house. No one wants to be out of water if something needs to be repaired on there well lol it really rare that someone run just off there well. 💯👍👌✌️💦🇺🇸🍻🥂
my pressure switch has a little short tube under it that takes antifreeze can you help me
Yes I can help.
We have replaced the pressure switch, didn't work. Replaced the pump, didn't work. Now we're thinking about replacing the tank, hoping it works - but our current tank is also taking and holding air so I'm not sure.
Test for power out at the well head. If u have power there, 240v typically. Then it's likely that the wire going down the well is broken.
I have a vertical deep well pump that is not priming and I my family has been without water for a week now. I don't know what to do. I've tried replacing the pressure switch, and replacing wire. Still no water
Do you remember what you did to get it fixed? I'm in this same situation right now.
Hi. Great video. What about the relief valve on the tank tee, I thought If the switch got stacked and pressure builds up in the tank, the relief valves should pups (opens) and relieves the extra pressure
I’m fighting the same pro-blemish but the nipple is free and clear I’ve replaced several switches and a nipple. Bladder tank is good also I don’t get it
Tank probably has too much air. Try lowering the tank air pressure by 5 psi
@@h2omechanic will do in morning will let you know
Can you please help me my pump is not on but the pressure switch has sparks I don't know what to dob
Is it freezing temps where you are right now?
If so its likely froze. Turn off the pump breaker.
Regardless, sparks means the pumps running, so it's not providing water, it's either a dry well due to a leak (Check your toilets) or the pipe going down the well has cracked & failed (you would have noticed sediment or low pressure prior to no water). Or it's frozen.
Or the pumps so old it just can't lift water anymore (doubtful)
No zip live in Florida I tried everything
Bruh - This helped - I went down and tapped on that nipple and the pump kicked on right away. Not sure if it's a bad contact, but either way, it seems to have done something.
It's best to replace the switch and then clean out the nipple it's sitting on. Itll happen again most likely, so buy a 40/60 switch & have it on hand
I'd like your opinion on using a safety line on a new submersible pump @ about 100 ft. Seems like a good idea, but I've read opinions against it.
Also, do I need a SS check valve and a SS male adapter both ?
My dads well system doesnt even resemble anything ive seen. No sure way of test tank its from 1926 and its welded. our pressure switch doesnt even have a nipple
You no water in the title which is wrong because with a clogged pressure switch you’ll have intermittent supply with low pressure. Can you solve no water and pump getting current but not coming on?
Dude, get out of my basement or crawlspace!
So can you please answer this question. You kind of touched on it with a sudden drop of water pressure. My washing machine cuts off my pressure switch and doesn't kick the pump back on. Nothing else does, not the shower, not the tub, not the garden hose. Maybe it happens when I change the washing machine setting on "heavy bulky loads." And then I have to go up the driveway to prime the pump again. Should I increase the 30-50 spring with a couple of turns clockwise, or should I add a second bladder tank?
@@ct4074 I'd inspect the nipple below the switch and clean it out. Then at that time you can check the air in you tank & make sure it has around 25psi in it.
@@h2omechanic Thank you!