This is good stuff. I like automotive machining videos. I also like seeing engines that I usually don't see as often. I doubt I will even get to use or turn a wrench on such vehicles, but I find it interesting anyway. Originally you thought -.030 was possible, but you had to go to -.040. When a Triumph crank is too worn, what do you do? Are they worth welding, or do you just look for a better core? I like seeing what people do when better cores and/or new parts are extremely expensive and saving the old parts is worth it. I'd like to see how these engines are oiled if you can. It seems like modern oil filters could dramatically extend engine life. I always like seeing how people add an oil filter system to engines that never had one.
Norton Commandos have a spin on oil filter on the oil return side to the tank. The Norton doesn't seem to have as much trouble with sludge in the crank. Oil filters can be added to the return side of Triumph and BSA motorcycles and I would recommend it. These sludge traps fill up from left to right with the right hand rod tying up first.
Loved watching your vids, very informative. Question for you. I stripped and cleaned my 6T 3 piece crank. As a precautionary measure ,I lapped the mating surfaces in with valve grinding paste and was happy with result. However, after securing the 6 bolts, i blocked up the oil ways and pressure tested for any leaks (primarily the grub screw for sludge trap) and at only 10 psi when sprayed with light oil, i was getting bubbling from the flanges and bolt heads. Do you think this may be the standard it left the factory or should i have applied some perhaps Wellseal. Thanks in anticipation regards Trev UK.
to be honest id say they for sure left with low pressure holding haha oil is going to find it harder to escape id say you did all the right steps and run it man!
This is good stuff. I would like your thoughts on the end of the crank, where oil pressure enters the crank. Will grinding a thou or more away, be allright, to make the surface more perfect? Cheers John
i grind the feed ends often i usually can clean them up without changing the over all dimensions. but its its really bad they do make an over size seal to make up for material removed
I know this an older video but I have a question for you, I’m an experienced motorcycle mech. having been trained and worked in multiple shops so what do you think of removing the sludge trap completely? I’m kicking this around for my 69 T120. I’ve already made a remote filter mount for a spin on, cleaned the crank and now with the filter and new oils I just don’t see the need for the trap. So I think that I can turn a steel plug to fill the chamber, drill the passage ways and rebalance. Any thoughts on this?
William, the sludge trap is the last line of defence for your big end bearings, being a very effective centrifugal oil filter, and it is worth retaining for that reason alone. Also it helps control oil flow to the big ends. For the amount of work you're talking about doing it would make a big difference to the weight of the big end journals and make balancing a real pig to carry out. I also use a remote filter mounted on the return line back to the tank. The engine produces the combustion by-products and the metallic wear particles that the sludge trap would usually collect while doing its job as a centrifugal oil filter so taking them out immediately after the oil leaves the engine and catching them in the spin-on filter means they would never get to the sludge trap and clog it. Put all the standard parts including the tube back into the crank to retain the standard balance, regularly change the oil and filter, and you should never have to worry about the sludge trap clogging again. Just make sure the rest of the oil system, the tank and hoses, is spotless too. You can take the rocker feed after the filter too so you're not dumping dirty oil into the top of the engine. Good luck. 👍😎
Great video. Enjoying your work
Nice work Son , attention to detail 👏
Great work
Thank you
This is good stuff. I like automotive machining videos. I also like seeing engines that I usually don't see as often.
I doubt I will even get to use or turn a wrench on such vehicles, but I find it interesting anyway.
Originally you thought -.030 was possible, but you had to go to -.040.
When a Triumph crank is too worn, what do you do? Are they worth welding, or do you just look for a better core? I like seeing what people do when better cores and/or new parts are extremely expensive and saving the old parts is worth it.
I'd like to see how these engines are oiled if you can. It seems like modern oil filters could dramatically extend engine life. I always like seeing how people add an oil filter system to engines that never had one.
Norton Commandos have a spin on oil filter on the oil return side to the tank. The Norton doesn't seem to have as much trouble with sludge in the crank. Oil filters can be added to the return side of Triumph and BSA motorcycles and I would recommend it. These sludge traps fill up from left to right with the right hand rod tying up first.
good stuff!
Well I just subscribed to your channel, cool video very instructive. Thanks a lot !!
Loved watching your vids, very informative. Question for you. I stripped and cleaned my 6T 3 piece crank. As a precautionary
measure ,I lapped the mating surfaces in with valve grinding paste and was happy with result. However, after securing the 6 bolts, i blocked up the oil ways and pressure tested for any leaks (primarily the grub screw for sludge trap) and at only 10 psi when sprayed with light oil, i was getting bubbling from the flanges and bolt heads. Do you think this may be the standard it left the factory or should i have applied some perhaps Wellseal. Thanks in anticipation regards Trev UK.
to be honest id say they for sure left with low pressure holding haha oil is going to find it harder to escape id say you did all the right steps and run it man!
This is good stuff. I would like your thoughts on the end of the crank, where oil pressure enters the crank. Will grinding a thou or more away, be allright, to make the surface more perfect? Cheers John
i grind the feed ends often i usually can clean them up without changing the over all dimensions. but its its really bad they do make an over size seal to make up for material removed
I know this an older video but I have a question for you, I’m an experienced motorcycle mech. having been trained and worked in multiple shops so what do you think of removing the sludge trap completely? I’m kicking this around for my 69 T120. I’ve already made a remote filter mount for a spin on, cleaned the crank and now with the filter and new oils I just don’t see the need for the trap. So I think that I can turn a steel plug to fill the chamber, drill the passage ways and rebalance. Any thoughts on this?
William, the sludge trap is the last line of defence for your big end bearings, being a very effective centrifugal oil filter, and it is worth retaining for that reason alone. Also it helps control oil flow to the big ends. For the amount of work you're talking about doing it would make a big difference to the weight of the big end journals and make balancing a real pig to carry out.
I also use a remote filter mounted on the return line back to the tank. The engine produces the combustion by-products and the metallic wear particles that the sludge trap would usually collect while doing its job as a centrifugal oil filter so taking them out immediately after the oil leaves the engine and catching them in the spin-on filter means they would never get to the sludge trap and clog it. Put all the standard parts including the tube back into the crank to retain the standard balance, regularly change the oil and filter, and you should never have to worry about the sludge trap clogging again. Just make sure the rest of the oil system, the tank and hoses, is spotless too. You can take the rocker feed after the filter too so you're not dumping dirty oil into the top of the engine. Good luck. 👍😎