This is the second part of the timing belt job. Please watch the previous video in the series regarding accessing the timing belt and the alignment of timing marks first. Enjoy my friends.
This is an awesome how-to, this deserves more views Thank you for sharing this! I’ll definitely be going back to this video when it comes time to put my M20 back together
Did you ever make that separate video for the crankshaft and oil pump seals? I’m debating on doing mine, but there’s no many videos out there covering the project
Hmmm....No mention of checking the timing marks before you removed the belt and the importance of not rotating anything. Nice video shots. I guess this wasn't aimed at DIY'ers.
after releasing tension on the tensioner, you stated to rotate the crank 2-3 times. Asking for clarification here b/c I'm doing this same job on an 87 BMW 325ic. I installed a new belt and released tension on the tensioner, then rotated only 2 TIMES. Camshaft and crank marks did not align with TDC (by a lot). Should I turn the Crank for a 3rd revolution? Don't want to damage valves?
Are you talking about marks on the new belt not lining up? If so, that’s perfectly fine, those marks are only for installation and will be off after you rotate the crank. Many timing belts don’t even have marks. Cranking the engine by hand is just to tension the belt and ensure everything is moving freely. Hope that helps.
I have a vast inventory of lengths of steel with bolt holes that I use on various crank bolts. The bolt holes allow you to use the harmonic pulley bolts to lock the steel section and you prop it against something solid. This allows you to break loose and later tighten down the crank bolt.
Not talking about marks on the new belt. Wasn’t aware that there were marks on the actual belt. I was referring to the mark on the crank shaft lining up with TDC mark on lower timing cover and the mark on the cam shaft sprocket lining up with TDC mark
Some belts definitely have marks on them…I’ve also done timing belt jobs on many many cars so I may be speaking of another make/model. You might not be to top dead center yet. Sometimes it’s 4 revolutions to get back TDC. If in doubt you can keep cranking by hand and eventually you will get there.
Camshaft oil seal was common back in the day rocker cover gaskets sweated along with the rocker shaft rubber seals were common oil leaks the M20 was a weepy engine but solid
Even the best engines leak over time. Some hold out longer than others. I view it as one of those inevitable repairs best handle through preventative maintenance.
@@autoobsessivegarage Yes replacing the tensioner too. I tried the 110 tooth belt, couldn’t get that on, the 111 tooth belt goes on but it seems too slack. The original belt was 111 tooth.
I can’t think of why it would be damn slack. Almost every timing belt I’ve installed is so damn tight that you have to fight with the tensioner to get enough slack to install? Which brand is the belt…maybe try another one to see if it’s the same? Maybe undersized pulleys? My brain hurts on this one.
This is the second part of the timing belt job. Please watch the previous video in the series regarding accessing the timing belt and the alignment of timing marks first.
Enjoy my friends.
This is an awesome how-to, this deserves more views
Thank you for sharing this!
I’ll definitely be going back to this video when it comes time to put my M20 back together
Appreciate that a ton!
Always happy to help out.
Did you ever make that separate video for the crankshaft and oil pump seals?
I’m debating on doing mine, but there’s no many videos out there covering the project
Hmmm....No mention of checking the timing marks before you removed the belt and the importance of not rotating anything. Nice video shots. I guess this wasn't aimed at DIY'ers.
The timing belt job was actually covered in two episodes. The previous video in the series covered the aligning of the timing belt marks.
after releasing tension on the tensioner, you stated to rotate the crank 2-3 times. Asking for clarification here b/c I'm doing this same job on an 87 BMW 325ic. I installed a new belt and released tension on the tensioner, then rotated only 2 TIMES. Camshaft and crank marks did not align with TDC (by a lot). Should I turn the Crank for a 3rd revolution? Don't want to damage valves?
Are you talking about marks on the new belt not lining up? If so, that’s perfectly fine, those marks are only for installation and will be off after you rotate the crank. Many timing belts don’t even have marks. Cranking the engine by hand is just to tension the belt and ensure everything is moving freely.
Hope that helps.
quick question, what type of RTV is best for using with water pump gasket?
Permatex Ultra Grey is my go-to.
Hey man just a question. How did you end up torquing the crankshaft bolt without engine rotating
I have a vast inventory of lengths of steel with bolt holes that I use on various crank bolts. The bolt holes allow you to use the harmonic pulley bolts to lock the steel section and you prop it against something solid. This allows you to break loose and later tighten down the crank bolt.
Not talking about marks on the new belt. Wasn’t aware that there were marks on the actual belt. I was referring to the mark on the crank shaft lining up with TDC mark on lower timing cover and the mark on the cam shaft sprocket lining up with TDC mark
Some belts definitely have marks on them…I’ve also done timing belt jobs on many many cars so I may be speaking of another make/model.
You might not be to top dead center yet. Sometimes it’s 4 revolutions to get back TDC. If in doubt you can keep cranking by hand and eventually you will get there.
This is an interference engine (M20B25). If I keep cranking by hand and the timing marks are not aligning will I damage the valves?
Camshaft oil seal was common back in the day rocker cover gaskets sweated along with the rocker shaft rubber seals were common oil leaks the M20 was a weepy engine but solid
Even the best engines leak over time. Some hold out longer than others. I view it as one of those inevitable repairs best handle through preventative maintenance.
When installing my timing belt, there seems to be a lot of slack on the right side, then when you go to rotate the crank it just slips past the belt
That should totally not be happening. Are you sure it’s routed correctly and also the correct replacement belt? Are you replacing the tensioner also?
@@autoobsessivegarage Yes replacing the tensioner too. I tried the 110 tooth belt, couldn’t get that on, the 111 tooth belt goes on but it seems too slack. The original belt was 111 tooth.
I can’t think of why it would be damn slack. Almost every timing belt I’ve installed is so damn tight that you have to fight with the tensioner to get enough slack to install?
Which brand is the belt…maybe try another one to see if it’s the same? Maybe undersized pulleys? My brain hurts on this one.