Project E30 / Ep. 14 / Replacing the Timing Belt
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2024
- In this video I dig into replacing the timing belt on Project E30, and as expected, I find some surprises.
-Here's the timing belt kit I ordered. This is for post-1987 325i E30s, so be sure to check your year: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
-Here are the additional parts I had to order related to the timing belt & engine reseal:
/Intermediate Shaft Seal: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
/Lower Timing Cover gasket: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
/Camshaft Seal Housing O-Ring: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
/Crankshaft Bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
/Crankshaft Bolt Washer: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
/Fuel Injector O-Rings (Locally sourced, non-BMW brand): shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/b...
/BMW Coolant (I ordered 2 gallons): www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
All this comes out to be about $180.
-Here's the crankshaft sprocket holding tool I used. I've used it on Toyota, Lexus and now BMW engines. Not the cheapest thing, but it really does the job. You may have to go to the hardware store to get the correct thread pitch bolts. I can't recall if the bolts that come with it work on the BMW: a.co/d/8DARIox
-Here are the hoses I ordered:
/Crankcase vent hose: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/rei...
/Radiator hose 1: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
/Radiator hose 2: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/rei...
/Radiator hose 3: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gat...
/Radiator hose 4: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/gat...
/Throttle Body hose 1: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/rei...
/Throttle Body hose 2: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-... 
Авто/Мото
I just want to say that your videos are criminally underviewed given the quality content you put out. One critique I have is that you seem to look at yourself in your camera screen instead of the lens and that can be distracting. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks for the feedback! I hadn't noticed I was doing that but I'll try to pay more mind to it in the future.
Given the complete lack of maintenance/repairs on this car, the previous owner knocked the maximum value out of it without spending anything. Great credit to you for saving this car.
For when you want to just chill out on a Saturday afternoon, this is the quality content that gets it just right.
I really appreciate you showing the reinstallation here as well. I took off my timing belt the other night and ended up having to order a bunch of extra parts as well and now that those are back on it's hard to remember how the rest went back on. Very informative!
Thoroughly enjoyable watching your vids, I've got an 88' 325i Cabrio project going myself, very time consuming but well worth it!E30's will be loved for years to come.
You're killing it, man. Your advice applies to lots of other cars other than E30s - I don't own a BMW, but I keep watching for this kind of advice. Thumbs up!
Perfect timing! I'm buying a 1983 323i tomorrow and need to replace the belts and just a general refresh, thanks for the vid!
Gotta say you did a great job on the engine and the level of detail and attention on your part was refreshing. Especially impressed if this is the first time working on an e30 engine. Good job leaving info on all parts you used and had to buy in addition to the kit. Hopefully it will help others. Length of the video is never an issue if the content is good and the commentary is well scripted. Again, good job.
Thank you!
Thank you for the video! I'm in the process of finishing the timing belt on my '84 325e (I started around the time the video was posted). The job has been long and drawn out because of limited spare time, my learning curve, weather (car is on the driveway), and breaking a couple of parts. As you have mentioned needing another part or damaging something and needing a replacement often puts things off for at least a week.
One of the things that stretched things out was trying to replace the crank and intermediate shaft seals without removing the lower cover. In the end, I was successful. I learned of a cam/crank seal puller/installer kit that made fairly quick work of removing the cam and intermediate shaft seals. It was however challenged to remove the front crank seal due to the 8mm+ diameter difference between the surface the crank seal runs on and the part of the crank that the timing belt sprocket sits on. Added to difficulty was some type of sealant holding the seal in. In my case, the metal shell of the seal deformed before the seal was willing to slide out of the bore in the lower cover. The kit uses the sprocket retaining bolt for the shaft to force a mandrel to drive the seal into place. No hammering needed to install the seals, only a few turns of a ratchet. Just take care to ensure that the sealing surface is fully around the shaft before you drive the seal in. Otherwise, you will need to buy another seal (and wait another week or two).
Steven Bauer
Did you have any sludge issues? I’m in the middle of yanking my car’s head off and pray I just have a blown head gasket. I can’t seem to get the fan clutch nut off. Mine is free-spinning, no resistance, but won’t “engage”
Sweet refresh on the E30. Giving me some ideas for my stock engine I have just sitting around.
Put it in a go-kart!
I was going to tackle the timing belt but after watching the video I think I'd do more harm than good. That idle issue with your car sure has all the signs of a vacuum leak.
Keep up the great work. Your videos are genuinely insightful and beneficial to the e30 community. Cheers.
I really love these videos, currently working on rebuilding my E30 325i.
I always look forward to seeing a new video from you! I have no idea what you could've missed. Those new parts all look great though! Also, the music is great, video quality is stellar as always.
Thank you so much!
I love this series, and I've been watching it and rewatching it. It gives me some PTSD inducing flashbacks to my E32 735i. Big M30B35 inline-6 and a 5-speed manual from the M5 of the era, factory LSD too. Spent the better part of 6 months daily driving and fixing that car up, only to have it toss the timing chain into a low-Earth orbit. I've never felt so broken-hearted or defeated before. It's my dream to find another E32, in Bronzit Beige Metallic and fix it up right. It was the car that my Fiance and I started dating in and it still comes up in memories. I think the next time around, I'm going to do a full rebuild on the engine or ditch it for a really mild truck LS motor for some reliability.
We want more long video's !! love it . keep going the good work
I'm enjoying all of the videos, wishing I had the time to get more done on my E30. One tip that makes the timing belt job a little easier is to unbolt the hood from the car so you can work on the engine bay from the front. It comes off fairly easy, just need a second set of hands to lift it out of the way.
Thanks man! I just ordered a very similar timing belt kit and found out I am also going to need additional parts you mentioned. Thanks from saving me time!
I was nervous with tackling a head hasket on 87' 325i vert 5mt. Your videos are the best on the web!!! I wish you would do a video of a head Gasket
I'll go with vacuum leak as well.
One thing to note with BMW's of this era is that they have no PCV valve. Any air leaking into the crank case is effectively a manifold vacuum leak. This is why removing the dipstick or oil cap while the engine is running will kill it. This also mean that if you have the symptoms of a leak, you need to make sure the crankcase is sealed as well as the hoses.
Thanks for doing the groundwork for us and being so thorough!
Good repair! You’ll enjoy the work you have put in.
I got me an e30 m20. I took the entire engine out and rebuilding it now. Best way to do all maintenance on a 30 + year car.
Great job man. Loved watching this series
I once stumbled across those complicated clips. It turned out they didn't have to be removed and the hole "bar" could just be snapped off by prying it up with a flathead screwdriver under the separate connectors. Just for future knowledge ;)
Just a heads-up for anybody who's looking at this later - the clips on the injector wiring harness do not need to be removed from the plastic housing or released from the injectors. Just pull up on the harness and it will release from the injectors, then it just pushes back on. That's why the clips are such thin wire.
Thanks Steve - that's great info!
So my e28 has the same engine. I happen to live in socialist California, according to my former mechanic CA was so impressed with how clean the engine ran when the state certified it, the state board told BMW to forego the EGR valve. That same mechanic told me should this engine be equipped with EGR valve this will be one of the cleanest running engines in America even by today's standards.
thanks I had similar issue with fuel rail I removed the 2 sensors from water outlet and got it under the fuel rail barely. The e30's are fun but do require the correct maintenance, of course...
i needed this, thanks!
An easy way to pull that injector wiring harness is simply leverage two sturdy screwdrivers off of the valve cover and pull down, eventually with enough force the square clips give way and they pop off mostly intact. I used to individually pick out those square c clips but then learned to just pull them off with force
Jeez I wish I had known about that trick!!
I enjoy watching your videos, now it looks like a huge pain in the ass to service that vehicle.
Loving the series, you make great videos.
Man, you made that look easy. I was under the impression that timing belt jobs you had to been super careful to keep everything on the engine in sync when you removed the belt - you seemed to just blaze through it quite happily.
I could not leave that intake manifold(?) being the only big metal part uncleaned haha. Everything else came out looking so shiny!
Oh, and the throttle body(?) gasket at 21:17, it looks like it still has paper or some covering on it that needs removing, is that the case?
Thank you! You're right, keeping the camshaft and crankshaft in alignment is critical when doing a timing belt job. You end up moving them out of alignment slightly when loosing bolts and so on, but there are reference markers so that you can place them back in the correct orientation.
I will say that on this engine, BMW doesn't give you reference markers regarding which belt teeth should be placed on which sprocket cog. This was a mild source of anxiety when putting it all back together, as the Toyota/Lexus/Nissan/Ducati engines I've performed timing belt jobs on give you these belt tooth reference markers. I just knew that where the belt runs from the crank sprocket/intermediate shaft sprocket/cam sprocket should be taut - no slack at all. Using that mindset, and with the crank & cam sprockets set on their reference points, the belt went back on correctly.
As for the filthy looking intake manifold, that's actually a cosmoline coating that was applied by the factory (or dealer?). I'll probably remove it, but it will take a special citrus cleaning chemical which I didn't have at the time.
And good guess on the throttle body gasket, but it isn't that!
Timing belts are fun and easy. i did the belt on my 2.8 v6 passat in under 2 hours when it calls for 5.
Zues Toots hey I have one of those! Love em
Great videos, many thanks! It seems you're using a special tool for the crankshaft bolt (and another special tool for the steering rods in the other video). Could you tell us more about these special tools?
I can tell you that that stutter from idle is most likely your fuel injectors. Mine did the same thing and I got new ones and it reved up perfect after no problem
For anyone else following this he's absolutely right, you really have to do some research on the car when looking to get parts for a job. One of the best things you can do is reach out to someone like FCP Euro, they specialize in BMW parts and are pretty good about making sure you have everything you to get the job done. No, I don't work for them it's just a good tip.
He’s going to have one of the only e30s on the rode that would earn country wide emissions and inspection stickers
What cleaning products were you using. I saw multiple things
This deserves way more views! Could you give me the parts number for the fan shroud and the long cooling hose that goes from the thermostat to the upper corner of the cooler on the drivers side? Greetings from Germany!
Great video. I am about to replace my timing belt and assorted seal as well. I will appreciate that you can provide the list of parts for sealing the engine front end. By the way, what is the special tool that you used to remove the crank shaft bolt? Thanks a lot in advance. Keep up the great work!
Sure thing. Check the description later, I'll try to get that info added today
@@PracticalEnthusiast Great information! Thanks a lot!
What’s that spray that you used to get all the hunk out of the engine bay it seems like it fell right off
Another great video! just wonder why did not take out the top intake manifold to do some cleaning as well? did you replace new engine mounts too?
I probably should have, but I was trying to not open another can of worms! I didn't replace the engine mounts.
My M20 used to have to be put through its paces once or twice before it would run smooth, I guess the ecu has to relearn what it does.
I'm currently doing my tb, wp, and thermostat atm. Got the pump and thermo installed but I'm struggling to get the new TB on. Any recommendations on getting it on correctly? The first time i got it on it had some slack on the driver side which was telling me I was off a tooth or two. Pls help haha
Thanks, really helpfull for me
Great video. What did you use to clean up the engine? It looks brand new! Also what is that attachment you are using on camshaft? Keep up the good work!!
Thank you! To clean the engine I used regular engine degreaser, brushes, and brake parts cleaner to rinse it off. I'm not sure what you're referring to regarding the camshaft attachment, where in the video do you see it?
Idle control valve installed backwards?
what kind of chemicals did you use to clean around the engine?
Hello, I'm new to your channel and i have to say you do an amazing work.
I enjoyed a lot the engine restoration and i wanted to ask you if you could do a future video explaining how you did the valves adjustment. I'm a mechanic enthusiast and i have never done this so far, but i would love to know how.
Looking forward to hear from you.
Thank you for watching! I'm currently working on a valve adjustment video, but it is for a different type of valvetrain (shim under bucket). The screw adjuster & rocker arm-style valvetrains are well documented throughout internet. In fact, here is a great how-to video: ruclips.net/video/tkkKGcDXnz8/видео.html
In case anyone is still watching this video / thread... I'm about to tackle the timing belt on my 1987 325i vert. This whole crank bolt situation has got me stressed out. Some swear up and down that the bolt and inner pulley does not need to be removed to slip the belt off. Others ( and the Bentley manual) suggest that on some early models BOTH parts need to come off to allow enough clearance for the belt to come out and new one go in. Any feedback would be amazing and truly reassuring. Cheers.
Hard to say, my first thought is idle air control valve, but during the video I noticed your plug cords looked frayed maybe? Is it ignition related?
Great videos and thank you for making them! I'm in the middle of a timing belt job now on my 90 325i. My car has the same issue as yours where it dips in idle once you give it gas. I read all of the comments and nothing was ever noted as to the cause. Can you please share what was causing the idle to drop like that?
There are a few things that can cause it: 1) if the ignition pickup wire is missing, it can cause it (see next video) 2) if the battery has been disconnected, the ECU needs to "relearn" and it may smooth out after a few miles of driving 3) there could be vacuum leak(s) somewhere.
Thanks man. You had mentioned the wire in one of your earlier videos so I actually replaced the wire set but no dice. Ended up doing a smoke test and saw it leaking from the oil return pipe under the intake manifold and also the throttle body hinges which I think you did a video also on the two small bearing replacements. Going to tackle that this weekend. I’m following your journey so she’s getting fixed up bit by bit. Keep up the great work!
Great video! Hey what did you use the seal up that timing cover to the oil pan? Did you leave the oil pan gasket there and just apply rtv? Did you use black or grey rtv? Also bro, how did you keep the engine from turning when you reinstalled the main crank bolt...it's spec like 300 ft lbs and I can't figure out how to keep the engine still to tq it.
At 8:40 I believe the injector electrical connectors are designed to simply be pulled off. I have that style and you literally just grab the rail of electrical connectors and pull up as evenly as possible and it should pop off. No messing around with cutting plastic etc, but there's a chance if it's brittle enough you could brake the plastic. I saw this and was dreading doing this, but low and behold pulls off in 3 seconds.
Yep, you're right. Wish I had known it at the time. Ugh.
@@PracticalEnthusiast ha, this series has still been and continues to b a great resource for me and my 325 ix. Thanks!
Did you only hand tighten the ignition rotor?
Im going to be doing a timing belt job on my car, but i dont have the time or the budget to go to the extent you went. What do you recommend to do the job? timing belt kit, water pump, timing case gasket?
I have added a requisite parts list (with links) to the description of the video. It's up to you how deep you want to go, but if your engine is leaking oil, you may have to deal with the crankshaft and intermediate shaft seals. This does require removing quite a few more items which takes some "special" tools like the crankshaft sprocket holder and a puller tool.
Belt, water pump, idler and tensioner are the norm for a basic timing kit. My tensioner pulley was failing and caused the belt to jump. that was before i bought it. bought as a non runner. 145k $250 put $250 into the kit and havnt touched a thing since, that was in july.
What is that black elbow tool you use to take the giant 300lb bolt off?
I know what's wrong, you didn't clean up that eyesore of an intake manifold lol, I'm sure you will at some point, good video.
What cleaning spray did you use? That thing cleaned so damn well!!!
It was just brake cleaner.
@@mooseinabox6321 thanks
I just used the house brand engine degreaser that my local Advance Auto had. Like 5 cans of it haha. A lot of scrubbing with soft bristle brushes, then rinsed it all down with brake parts cleaner. And a lot of it.
Are you guys referring to cleaning of the valve heads or the engine bay itself? I’m impressed with how clean the valves are - I need to do the same
@@criSOME1 we're just referring to cleaning the exterior of the engine. The valvetrain was fairly clean on this car, which points to consistent oil changes.
I'm guessing something related to the new intake boot.
I would suggest it is a crank angle/position sensor issue.
Should your block be at TDC when removing stuff like the crankshaft bolt to be replaced?
Yes, you'll want to keep it as close to TDC as possible. It may move a little bit, just be sure to set it back.
Did you consider rigging up a fuel injector cleaning rig with a momentary on/off switch, or did a simple spray clean do the trick?
I just did a spray clean in the interest of time. I may still either get them flow cleaned professionally, or swap in brand new ones at some point. They seem to work well as-is though!
Does the crank bolt have reverse threads?
FYI those connectors just come free if you give them a good yank!
Hello!
First of all I would like to say a big thank you for this video!
However, what still remains a bit unclear to me, is how you take out and both reinstall the timing belt tensioner...
Thanks!
I used a long 3/8 ratchet extension to push the tensioner back by hand. When installing the belt, I had a helper push the tensioner back so I could slip the belt on. It's much easier with two people!
Practical Enthusiast many thanks for your answer! It really still is a very nice tutorial!
On which part did you apply pressure to push it back with the ratchet? Or is it even possible to push it back by hand? And do you need to unbolt it totally to take away the pressure it makes against the belt?
What's the foaming degreaser that you use?? I've seen it in almost all of your videos and it looks like it does a great job!
I use a bunch of different types, usually whatever is on sale at the local auto parts store. I've had good results from the Gunk brand though.
What tool did you use to drive in the crankshaft and intermediate shaft seals? Did you create your own crankshaft sleeve?
I used this set: www.amazon.com/FIRSTINFO-Bearing-Camshaft-Remover-Installer/dp/B00YF7R0DY
U can double nut the thermostat housing studs and pull them out and dont have to touch fuel rail just fyi
you forgot to move the pulse sensor on the 6th spark plug wire. Just a wild guess
You remind me of Edd China in your way of speaking😂
If you ever decide to sell send the prospective buyers a link to all these videos.😀
i have a 320i is it the same?
I hate to ask, but could you do a write up on all the timing belt change parts and equipment used? I have a front crank seal leak and am planning on doing this exact job in the spring and your video has been very helpful. Also, the Bentley says you need to torque the crank bolt to 320ft lbs. is that your experience?
Hey Richard, I tried to put all the parts and special tools used in the video description. Did you see that? My torque wrench only goes up to 300 ft/lbs, so that's as high as I took it. Honestly though, I think anything north of 200 ft/lbs is probably adequate on this engine.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Awesome thank you so much! I didn't expand the descriptions fully. So I see all the parts and this is extremely helpful! Don't take this video down!! I don't drive my E30 hard, so I agree with you that torquing to 300ft/lbs should suffice. Especially when torque wrenches above 300 get stupid expensive. Hopefully my timing/water pump/front engine seals job goes as smoothly as yours. Being this is my first car mechanic project ever, I'll probably break a bunch of stuff in the process. Luckily I don't have to take out my fuel rail.
Why u changed the cranksaft bolt?
Well I would say oil dipstick isn't in all the way, but because of your hint, I'm gonna say fuel injector o rings.
Buenas noches soy guatemala tengo un bwm e30 no funciona el reloj de las reboluciones y ni el de aceite sera que me puede ayudar y se descarga la bateria
I just ordered the same timing belt kit would you mind listing the other parts I need to order so helpful thank you
Oil pump lay shaft and Timing Cover Gasket
Camshaft seal housing
You should make a video about what you didn’t replace
Josiah Ramirez why? that video would be short
I am sad i have to tell you this but you missed 2 little orings that are for sure leaking. Under the intake manifold is a spring loaded pipe that goes from the head/manifold to the oilpan. You have to take the intake manifold off to replace them. Otherwise great job.
RandomDude. He seems to be doing it all without a proper manual, odd strategy for this much effort
Ignition?
Great job but a car of that mileage I would do hg and big end bearings ect..
lovely
Hey buddy need your help i bought 2 325i convertibles one automatic and one 5 speeds i did the oil and sparks change on the automatic and runs with no problem..and i try to reset the iol service light jumping the 7 and the 19 on the bay port..but when i try to look for it i couldn't find it and look at the fire wall and see one so i jumped that one but that one didn't had 19 so i use 17 and nothing happened the service message still there and i try and try again..to my exaustion i give up put everything together.now my car won't start..and i find out that the right port was hiding under the oil dip stick i pulled out and did the 7 and 19 and message went out but car won't start.i switch computers check fuel pump relays switch fuel pump and still don't start...start but wont c'mon..like fuel is not getting in..please help.
Great video!
I'm in the middle of doing the timing belt right now on my '84 325e. Some of the tools I mentioned below will also be used on my 4Runner timing belt job which is next.
What was the tool you used to hold the crankshaft pulley? I have a version of the official BMW tool that has an arm welded to the ring bolting to the crank hub instead of a socket to use a breaker bar.
I purchased a Lisle 58430 seal removal tool to pull the cam seal without removing the flange from the head (although I did remove the flange to replace the o-ring). I will use the same tool to pull the crank and timing seals without removing the lower timing cover from the engine, and a cam seal install kit. There are various brands, but they all have a series of collars that work with the pulley bolt to press the seal into place w/out having to remove the lower timing cover.
One other comment. The Bentley or Factory manual (I can't remember which at the moment, recommends that you install the new shaft seals a mm or so either in front of or behind the original seal. This is to prevent the new seal from riding in any groove worn into the shaft from the original seal and prevent a possible leak.
I used the timing kit from FCP Euro that has 2 cam seals (the layshaft seal and the cam seal are the same part), etc as a guide for the parts I needed. The only part I found missing was the o-ring (~ $0.60) that seals the cam seal flange in the head (you need to remove the flange from the head to see it.). The thermostat identified in the noted in the kit says it doesn't have an o-ring gasket, but the one shipped to me did. I ended up not getting the kit and buying the parts individually because the kit price was no discount over the individual pieces and the included water pump had a plastic impeller like the original BMW part, but BMW has since used pumps with metal impellers for reliability reasons.
HI I HAVE A 1985 325E I DID THE CLUTCH KIT, ENGINE OIL PAN GASKET, VALVE COVER GASKET, REAR MAIN SEAL, FRONT CRANK SEAL, CAM SEAL, DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR, TIMING BELB, WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT AND GASKET AND NOW IT WILL NOT IDLE AND MISFIRE IN THE EXHAUST CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME I AM HELPING MY FRIEND DO IT AND IT WAS RUNNING GOOD BEFORE AND I CHECKED TIMING TO TDC 4 TIMES PLEASE ANY HELP I COULD GET ALSO I PUT NEW FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
Is is timing?
Crank refrence sensor.
Not sure about the fault but vacuum leaks often play a part in bad idling. Obviously it will idle badly to begin with if they battery has been disconnected for a while, as the ECU re-learns.
Separate point, I did notice however you got your injectors looking great, did you get them cleaned internally? I had mine sonic cleaned to give them better spray rates as they degrade over time. Prob 100k miles is a good interval. They seemed a PITA for you, to get the clips off? There's a good guide on the e30zone dot net wiki which helped me.
Plus, I took the inlet manifold off which game me better access, and there's some gaskets you'll probably want to change too :)
Surprisingly it's not a vacuum leak! I'll probably still do a smoke test on the engine to make sure, but the primary culprit to the running issue is something a little more obscure.
I didn't get injectors flow cleaned in the interest of time, but I will probably do it in the future!
Removing the intake manifold would have made removing the injector connector clips way easier, but alas, I didn't have those gaskets so I left well enough alone. Thanks for watching!
Idle control valve? My car does the same thing...
Bay Area Bimmer that’s what I was going with. But he said it was one of his new parts he put in and I don’t remember him replacing the ICV.
Good guess - but it's not that!
Spark plug
Idle air valve
Lol im replacing my timing belt right now
Crank position sensor
Maybe afm
Take the intake off it's easier that way
Mind me asking what you use to clean the engine while you were in there?
Brake Parts Cleaner? Or is that not strong enough?
I used engine degreaser to loosen the dirt then I hit it with brake parts cleaner to finish it. Nothing special, just the generic brands at the auto parts stores.
Damn this engine is so mush complicated compared to the M42
I would agree but then there's my ass that can't get spark on my M42 -_-
It's a vacuum leak... One of your hoses isn't sealed correctly
Vacuum leak..
Who the hell dislikes this video ??? Were those people watching this video upside down ???
This is why I put a S52 motor in my E30 to avoid this plus more HP