I've been riding this bike with a stock set up for 3vyears. No problems on steep techy stuff (my fave type of riding) I don't have a huge range of other bikes to compare against but I absolutely love this bike.
The holes in the head tube are baffling to me. Even if their analysis says there’s no stress there, I don’t see the benefit of it. Take your choice but I’d use either a decal, paint, or double sided tape before I’d ever drill two holes there just for a badge. It’s bad enough there’s holes in that area for the internal cabling.
If they really cared manufacturers would use inserts for holes & fixations and wrap material around it. Not that it would be cheap but it probably wouldn't be expensive...
i am still xc hardtail rider but i would like updated xc hardtails with more from 110mm supension travel maby upto 120-130 mm suspension about the same as current xc fully's
The problem with the squeaking noise in the Shiamno Microspline hubs is caused by a lack of grease on the white crown plastic piece. In the first batches of these Shimano hubs, the inside was all dry and the instructions also stated that you could not put grease there. Then they changed that only this piece needs to be greased. I have an SLX hub with 15,000 kilometers on it and no issues. Only once a year I do disassemble the freewheel, clean it and reassemble.
Your comment about the bottle cage being such a long reach made me chuckle. I got a Yeti SB100 two years ago on closeout, my first new mtb in many years, and it feels like my water bottle is now MILES below me. I keep dropping the bottle when I go to put it back because it’s quite a stretch. I’ll get it eventually, or .. maybe not. Decades of muscle memory not doing me any favors. 😂
hehe - I use the bottle cage for a tool flask and wear a nice hip pouch with water pack instead. of course, when I take my road bike out, it's back to fumbling blindly for the bottle.
17:25 overforking a bike by more than a cm usually ruins the geometry as the bb is also raised and the reach decreased. Both will lead to less stability and plantedness, which is usually the reason people would go for more travel. I’d personally look at the fork settings, more lsc or volume spacers maintain the static geometry (ie at sag) but will keep up the front more dynamically which will make the bike more eager to roll over stuff as opposed to diving into it.
My SB140 frame just arrived. I've just rushed off to peek inside the head tube - no chipped carbon on mine, just two very cleanly drilled holes with the rivets through them for the badge. Hopefully the badge isn't concealing a mess. :D It's a shame none of the MTB brands outside of UK builders have a better option for the rear brake cable route.
I can't help but think that riding the Yeti as they had designed it, right off the bat, may have been the way to go. Regardless, I hope that you find the bike you're looking for in what you currently have in your hands. Moreover, thank you for sharing your work; Great channel.
I had a '97 Yeti ARC, the one with the Troy Lee Designs decals, it was a lovely bike. I wouldn't buy a Yeti these days purely because of the press-fit BBs.
20:01 I've seen a mechanic share pic of the hub mechanism completely destroyed on a Shimano Microspline hub I think it was XTR or XT. I suspect these hubs are junk. I saw it on Instagram, but forgot who posted it. I might not have saved it, could not find it. but I read others have issues with these bus. I suspect it might be misalignment, I got issues with DT Swiss 350 hub, in the winter the ratchet in the freehub gets stuck so hub does not engage properly, randomly disengages, only happen few times. Maybe something similar happens, but not effecting the engagement? I've never tried Shimano XT hubs. I looked into Industry nine, but apparently they have issues with bearings lasting about 7 months or something. I heard great things about Onyx. Little info about Project 321 they have several engagement options, but I think fastest is 1.1 deg. Heard good things about Halo and Profile Racing, but little info on them, no in depth info.
Good way to get a click but I wouldn't even consider fitting an angleset to a frame before I had tried it standard. There is a lot more to how a bike rides than just the numbers.
Totally get where you are coming from with this build and can see what you want to achieve. Might get a nice result by leaving out the Slaker and instead using a smaller rear wheel. Also, less travel in the fork helps keep the trail figure more consistent. X-Track pedals are hugely underrated. If one knows how to set up the shoe to allow a snug fit between the pontoons and the pedal, hot spots are gone forever. Genuine Look cleats also allow some angle adjustments which Shimano do not. Cool.
There's nothing I can see that the Slack-R would void the frame warranty ... And you could argue that with the drill damage in the headset for the name plate, the Slack-R is keeping everything together! Did the frame have a QC Passed sticker?
Ah! The wonderful rabbit hole of mtb geometry. Be aware its a very deep hole! Slack angles push the front axle further away from your centre of mass, which has the effect of making your weight more rearward biased - its why the Yeti felt light on the front and you had to fight with it on the climbs. Corrective action is a longer rear centre or steeper seat tube (not possible without a new frame) or to slide your saddle fowards. Of course, this then affects ones seated position relative to the bars, and off you go again on another corrective action...
That slacker headset is the same design as the wheels BB. The bearing loads are meant to go angular 360° around the headtube, those screw together kits put all the load on the top/bottom of the headtube
It’s a little different Jane. The unit interfaces with where the IS bearings would sit. It doesn’t clamp the head tube. It’s only 30nm which is nothing compared to rider weight on the bars and the impact from fork hitting stuff. So this area is designed to have some load in that direction. I’m with you on thread together BB applying horizontal clamping force where it was never intended to be.
Its an IS headset. The slack-r probably has the bearings 2-3 mm higher. It’s a clever design. So many people report great things, but there must me something out of tolerance somewhere for mine to creak.
@@Mapdec all the htp and other videos say it adds 20mm steerer tube length, so the bearings are much further out creating a bigger moment. Can you fit a feeler gauge under the slack-r and between the headtube? If its on the 45° tapers there must be a tiny gap. I would definitely do an install with dykum or paintpen on the tapers to actually confirm the tapers are under compression, if they are it shouldn't creak. That's my bet after seeing the lack of daylight above/under the headtube
I had a Pipedream Moxie last year, bought the medium as it was suggested in their charts. I should really have bought the small size as the Medium always felt a bit oversize for me. I did run it mullet sometimes and enjoyed that. Have you thought about trying mullet on the Yeti? . I sold the Moxie as I wanted a smaller frame. Picked up a Kona Honzo St which is ok, but I'm tending to ride FS more. A Cotic Jeht and Orbea Rise. Getting older and not so flexible as I was.
For the hub problem is a shimano service manual how to service it but i experienced it in my own bike and found out that the grease does not spread out well in this hub system and the hub seal is crap
I installed 2 headset slackers from workscomponents, 2 degrees,on a 26 inch bike and on a canondale cujo. no problems and they get abused. thes sets are pressfit
Hello. I've got a sirius as well. It's not light but there's a magic ride quality in it. Have you given any thoughts to the new ibis dv9 frame geo ? Maybe it would be closer to what you're looking for? Love your videos and channel. Best regards from France.
I’m curious about going with a longer travel fork. Though I’ve always been told that for hardtails slightly longer travel forks don’t make a huge difference, it might be enough. Anyway, I’m the opposite type of rider than you- I prefer climbing oriented hardtails. Longer travel bikes seem too slow for me and weigh too much. I will reach for a dualie when I’m looking for comfort and not speed.
I’ve found that slacker bikes require a different cornering technique. I’ve been rewarded cornering on long slack bikes (HT or FS) by leaning the bike over, keeping my body weight central (laterally) and shifting backwards (vertically). Kind crouched over my back wheel lol. Stole it from Jeff Kendall weed on RUclips.
In our workshop we had problems with the original micro spline freehubbody three times. Twice on e bikes and once on a mtb. There was always a very loud cracking to be heard. We exchanged it and the cracking was gone. The bearings in the freehubbody felt very rough. The bikes had only driven 100 km. It seemed to me that the seat of the bearing is undersized. Do you have any experience with it? Greetings from Germany
If you're going to try and out guess the guys who designed the bike with head cups and the like, you've bought the wrong bike. However, give it 1000km before you change it. Experience is everything in MTB
Hi, Paul! What’s up with those gates in the UK? I see them in other cycling videos and I can’t figure them out. How do people know which gate you can or cannot get into?
There are arrows. Yellow circle with green arrow is a footpath for pedestrians only. Blue arrows is a bridleway for horses and bikes and a red arrow is for motorbikes and 4x4.
Steve over a @hardtailparty also slackened the head tube angle using the Slack-R when he tested the ARC a while back. It's interesting that he did it with a demo bike on loan from Yeti and now they void the warranty if owners do it. He liked the ARC but didn't love it - in stock form or with the Slack-R, but he did like it a lot more with the Slack-R.
What I found interesting is when he did the slacker headset it wasn’t on yetis website for warranty. It wasn’t till a month after and after I had installed one on my yeti that it appeared as a void of warranty serious piss off for me
@@tylerruecker7388 Your warranty should still be good if Yeti didn't post online or have anything in writing about not using the Slack-R at the time you got your bike.
Ya I hope so. I wish I took a screen shot of the warranty page when I bought it but I have no proof of when they posted those changes to there website. Hopefully I never have to use the warranty
They drilled holes in the carbon head tube to fit a badge 😢. I'm no structural engineer or anything but all of that sounds bad to me. They do make some beautiful bikes though. Them holes are still bothering me 😮
Hey there! I'm really close to buying a new ARC frame and was wondering if you had some tips regarding the BB92 installation method? It would be a standard SRAM DUB BB92 if that makes a difference. Grease? Retaining compound? Dry? Peanut Butter? It's been a while since I've had a PF BB and swore I would never go back to one but the ARC has me on the ropes.... any help/advice is very much appreciated!
@@Mapdec SRAM's official guide on their YT channel shows grease with the DUB PF92 and a carbon frame. Do you agree based on your experience, or is dry what you would do on your ARC with a DUB BB?
@@ThunderStruckMTB SRAM Plastic BB are apparently made from an oil resistant polymer so i guess, yes. Follow their instructions. Note. Those instructions also state that the hole must be between 40.95mm and 41mm. www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/dub-mtb-and-road-cranksets-and-bottom-brackets-user-manual-eeu.pdf And www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/mtb/2021-mtb-frame-fit-specifications.pdf
Lol. They are a bit heavy for summer. Really impressed with the fit though. Awesome hike a bike shoe. Got them mega cheap, wanted to try them out. I’m going to get the low cut version.
Props for the cool Yeti ARC flavor. How about going to the fabricator whom welded the first ever Easton aluminum Yeti ? Frank Wadelton aka F.T.W. You seem to be a perfect candidate for a custom frame. Show up at any trailhead on an FTW and everyone else is on a huffy ! It would be compelling to travel with you thu the process and see your choices. Waduthink ? Also check out Works components +/- 2*
I can’t watch. It makes me cringe seeing 2 men destroying their own reputations. Most pro mechanics in the real world have lots of different tools for the job. Depends how ceased in, broken, what access we can get. We usefully go for the fastest method that won’t do any harm. We never reuse bearings. It’s just a very minor cost in relation to our time and the cost of having to redo a job.
@@Mapdec poor reginald he already lost chance to grow his name and channel in the cycling community by being a massive troll and fighting hambini. All of the cycling community to have a d**k measuring contest with, he chose hambini.
First of all you should have waited until the brought out this frame with threaded bb to avoid any creakyfit bb issues, as they are working through their lineup after realising a lot of customers wont accept pressfits. Secondly, just get a new 150mm air spring for your Pike then run a Chris King headset. Its £50. Probably £30 if you own a bike shop.
Umm. I hear ya. Pressfit is good if you know what you’re doing. CK headset for IS offers no real advantage like the ZS and EC do. 150mm will also slacken ST and raise BB too. I am considering it though.
I felt the same about my Arc in a few ways - HTA is a bit too steep and overall quality of frame didn't match my expectations for Yeti. Unfortunate to hear the BB isn't great either. Do you think you could route the rear brake 'properly' if you used an AXS dropper and derailleur? Sounds like a short travel FS bike would be more up your street - like a Transition Spur.
The frame is actually routed. I could run it better if I crossed the brake and gear cable at the BB, but how it clamps leaves a bit of a kink. I just like hardtail. A Pivot 429 would be sweet.
Yeah, loved my arc aswell but the chainline and chainring clearance socked so hard. Didn’t get the short headtube nor the lack of bottlecage mounts thing. After 2 years of riding it now and then… i sadly moved back to typical overbuilt trail fs. But hands down, Arc is one of the coolest looking hardtail siluettes ever.
Following on from my questions regarding the use of a Shimano Pressfit bearing on a Yeti Arc frame in your video “The Best Bottom Bracket for every Bike - The End.”, I have now measured the bottom bracket diameter of my ARC unit. Now I don't have an internal micrometer, just a slide gauge. The diameter of my frame is between 40.6 and 40.7 on the left and right, horizontally and vertically. That is even narrower than your frame.
For me it's the wrong bike. But agree the Cirus was flawed, should have had better standover. Cons: internal routing. integrated headset crash footage I've seen of Yeti bikes, they won't handle smashing into rocks well, I prefer a robust bike like Nicolai, in aluminium. But I've not seen any one crash into a rock with this frame yet. But saw it with the full suspension bike. I think it was MR Tonka. some years ago. Pros: easy internal routing weight
Aye. The Nicolai is too much bike for me. I rode one a few years back. It cruised over everything. Made me terrified of the speed or steepness I needed to ride to make it technically challenging again. I’m too old for crashing hard and fast now 😂
@@Mapdec Keep in mind they can make frame how you want it.Even one that's not in the line up. I've not tried it. But after trying Geometron G1, I want to ''geometronised'' bikes. I love the steering. 62 deg head angle, 44mm offset fork. So I want something as close to that as possible. I want to build a fat bike. but can't find one that's like this. Nicolai has not updated their fatbike, but maybe they can make me one. So you give them the numbers, and your requirements and they build it for you. I guess you want more of a xc/trail bike like the Cirus, but with low top tube. So far closest thing I've seen is Rocky Mountain Blizzard with 66deg head angle. As for the speed, that's what brakes are for.
100% the headset cups are unnecessary, you can just learn to get used to it. Slakr is snake oil and you wasted your money worrying over minute details that literally don’t matter.
@@Mapdec extremely disappointing. Where does the extra money go? A Carbonda (fly bike or whoever makes them) is less than one 5th of the cost and usually pretty close to perfect, or any issues are minor and can be excused due the cost.
Go and buy the right sized and designed bike for you! Adjustable headset angles are completely senseless and useless! I'm a bike mechanic, and I always avoided to use those adjustable head sets, for myself or my customers! Because of the noises, and the other mechanical problems. And I made one try, just for fun, to press in the bearing shells, lined up like it's needed. There is no way, to stop your bearing shells from turning, a tiny bit, while pressing. Only one example of nonsense
Don’t you enjoy watching the experiment though? I like trying things. I don’t use it any more. The Yeti arc is good enough without it. I’ll get something slacker on a full sus.
My Slack-r has arrived 1 week from order to shipment. As its going in a steel frame I'm debating on not using the gripper paste and just using grease to install. Could the carbon gripper paste be a cause of your creaking ?
You can make an updated video if you still have the bike
I've been riding this bike with a stock set up for 3vyears. No problems on steep techy stuff (my fave type of riding) I don't have a huge range of other bikes to compare against but I absolutely love this bike.
The holes in the head tube are baffling to me. Even if their analysis says there’s no stress there, I don’t see the benefit of it. Take your choice but I’d use either a decal, paint, or double sided tape before I’d ever drill two holes there just for a badge. It’s bad enough there’s holes in that area for the internal cabling.
If they really cared manufacturers would use inserts for holes & fixations and wrap material around it.
Not that it would be cheap but it probably wouldn't be expensive...
i am still xc hardtail rider but i would like updated xc hardtails with more from 110mm supension travel maby upto 120-130 mm suspension about the same as current xc fully's
most stick to 100 mm travel suspension on xc hardtails
The problem with the squeaking noise in the Shiamno Microspline hubs is caused by a lack of grease on the white crown plastic piece. In the first batches of these Shimano hubs, the inside was all dry and the instructions also stated that you could not put grease there. Then they changed that only this piece needs to be greased. I have an SLX hub with 15,000 kilometers on it and no issues. Only once a year I do disassemble the freewheel, clean it and reassemble.
My Slacker on a Hightower 1 - 2 years install -NO issues!
Keep in mind you might want to size up if doing this. The reach gets shorter.
Your comment about the bottle cage being such a long reach made me chuckle. I got a Yeti SB100 two years ago on closeout, my first new mtb in many years, and it feels like my water bottle is now MILES below me. I keep dropping the bottle when I go to put it back because it’s quite a stretch. I’ll get it eventually, or .. maybe not. Decades of muscle memory not doing me any favors. 😂
hehe - I use the bottle cage for a tool flask and wear a nice hip pouch with water pack instead. of course, when I take my road bike out, it's back to fumbling blindly for the bottle.
17:25 overforking a bike by more than a cm usually ruins the geometry as the bb is also raised and the reach decreased. Both will lead to less stability and plantedness, which is usually the reason people would go for more travel.
I’d personally look at the fork settings, more lsc or volume spacers maintain the static geometry (ie at sag) but will keep up the front more dynamically which will make the bike more eager to roll over stuff as opposed to diving into it.
Umm. I might add a volume spacer. Good idea bonky. Thanks.
My SB140 frame just arrived. I've just rushed off to peek inside the head tube - no chipped carbon on mine, just two very cleanly drilled holes with the rivets through them for the badge. Hopefully the badge isn't concealing a mess. :D It's a shame none of the MTB brands outside of UK builders have a better option for the rear brake cable route.
I love my Yeti Arc, and have been riding it with a 140mm fork for 3 years on very rocky, rooty terrain.
Very nice build my friend!!
Thank you kindly
Get the 10mm longer fork spring for the Pike and see how it feels. Not mega bucks to try it.
I can't help but think that riding the Yeti as they had designed it, right off the bat, may have been the way to go. Regardless, I hope that you find the bike you're looking for in what you currently have in your hands. Moreover, thank you for sharing your work; Great channel.
Thank you. I have been riding it without the adapter for a while now. It’s a great trail bike, it’s just not got that confidence on steep ground.
I had a '97 Yeti ARC, the one with the Troy Lee Designs decals, it was a lovely bike. I wouldn't buy a Yeti these days purely because of the press-fit BBs.
It’s not something worth basing a buying decision on. If the frame is right for you, the BB is just a thing that is what it is.
20:01 I've seen a mechanic share pic of the hub mechanism completely destroyed on a Shimano Microspline hub I think it was XTR or XT. I suspect these hubs are junk. I saw it on Instagram, but forgot who posted it. I might not have saved it, could not find it. but I read others have issues with these bus.
I suspect it might be misalignment, I got issues with DT Swiss 350 hub, in the winter the ratchet in the freehub gets stuck so hub does not engage properly, randomly disengages, only happen few times.
Maybe something similar happens, but not effecting the engagement? I've never tried Shimano XT hubs.
I looked into Industry nine, but apparently they have issues with bearings lasting about 7 months or something.
I heard great things about Onyx.
Little info about Project 321 they have several engagement options, but I think fastest is 1.1 deg.
Heard good things about Halo and Profile Racing, but little info on them, no in depth info.
Good way to get a click but I wouldn't even consider fitting an angleset to a frame before I had tried it standard. There is a lot more to how a bike rides than just the numbers.
Good on you for riding your hardtail in the lakes, I've got a few bikes even hardtails, but I always bring my full sus to the lakes 😜
Totally get where you are coming from with this build and can see what you want to achieve. Might get a nice result by leaving out the Slaker and instead using a smaller rear wheel. Also, less travel in the fork helps keep the trail figure more consistent. X-Track pedals are hugely underrated. If one knows how to set up the shoe to allow a snug fit between the pontoons and the pedal, hot spots are gone forever. Genuine Look cleats also allow some angle adjustments which Shimano do not. Cool.
Oh. A mullet. I have never tried it. This shoe and cleat combo is working really well.
I use angle set to lower my front end since I over forked the bike.
Drilled ht badge??? I've used Slack-R on Fuel EX Gen 5. It was fantastic.
The holes drilled in head tube on a carbon frame and undersize oval bb is a deal breaker for me.
Good luck with your experiments!
There's nothing I can see that the Slack-R would void the frame warranty ... And you could argue that with the drill damage in the headset for the name plate, the Slack-R is keeping everything together!
Did the frame have a QC Passed sticker?
My Slacker on a Hightower 1 - 2 years install -NO issues! SORRY -for the repeat contact 9point8 -they do stand behind their products
Ah! The wonderful rabbit hole of mtb geometry. Be aware its a very deep hole!
Slack angles push the front axle further away from your centre of mass, which has the effect of making your weight more rearward biased - its why the Yeti felt light on the front and you had to fight with it on the climbs. Corrective action is a longer rear centre or steeper seat tube (not possible without a new frame) or to slide your saddle fowards. Of course, this then affects ones seated position relative to the bars, and off you go again on another corrective action...
That slacker headset is the same design as the wheels BB. The bearing loads are meant to go angular 360° around the headtube, those screw together kits put all the load on the top/bottom of the headtube
It’s a little different Jane. The unit interfaces with where the IS bearings would sit. It doesn’t clamp the head tube. It’s only 30nm which is nothing compared to rider weight on the bars and the impact from fork hitting stuff. So this area is designed to have some load in that direction. I’m with you on thread together BB applying horizontal clamping force where it was never intended to be.
@@Mapdec ah, so no press in cups, its a zerostack headtube?
Do the slacker bearings sit 8-10mm further down than the originals though?
Its an IS headset. The slack-r probably has the bearings 2-3 mm higher. It’s a clever design. So many people report great things, but there must me something out of tolerance somewhere for mine to creak.
@@Mapdec all the htp and other videos say it adds 20mm steerer tube length, so the bearings are much further out creating a bigger moment.
Can you fit a feeler gauge under the slack-r and between the headtube? If its on the 45° tapers there must be a tiny gap. I would definitely do an install with dykum or paintpen on the tapers to actually confirm the tapers are under compression, if they are it shouldn't creak. That's my bet after seeing the lack of daylight above/under the headtube
I had a Pipedream Moxie last year, bought the medium as it was suggested in their charts. I should really have bought the small size as the Medium always felt a bit oversize for me. I did run it mullet sometimes and enjoyed that. Have you thought about trying mullet on the Yeti? . I sold the Moxie as I wanted a smaller frame. Picked up a Kona Honzo St which is ok, but I'm tending to ride FS more. A Cotic Jeht and Orbea Rise. Getting older and not so flexible as I was.
With regards to mullet on ARC. Yeti officially told me officially NO. 140 mm fork, I was told by Yeti - YES!
For the hub problem is a shimano service manual how to service it but i experienced it in my own bike and found out that the grease does not spread out well in this hub system and the hub seal is crap
I installed 2 headset slackers from workscomponents, 2 degrees,on a 26 inch bike and on a canondale cujo. no problems and they get abused.
thes sets are pressfit
I don’t think they make one for IS
Hello. I've got a sirius as well. It's not light but there's a magic ride quality in it. Have you given any thoughts to the new ibis dv9 frame geo ? Maybe it would be closer to what you're looking for?
Love your videos and channel.
Best regards from France.
Maybe. It is very similar. It’s not as pretty though.
I agree, a good looking bike is faster ;)
Well the slack r will creak as long as you fit it with carbon paste fit it with normal grease and it will work perfectly.
The manual specifically says carbon paste. Otherwise it rotates.
I’m curious about going with a longer travel fork. Though I’ve always been told that for hardtails slightly longer travel forks don’t make a huge difference, it might be enough. Anyway, I’m the opposite type of rider than you- I prefer climbing oriented hardtails. Longer travel bikes seem too slow for me and weigh too much. I will reach for a dualie when I’m looking for comfort and not speed.
They do. It will raise the BB and the CofG. Slacken the head angle and the seat angle
But you can run 140 mm fork on ARC, Yeti approved!
140mm travel fork?
I’ve found that slacker bikes require a different cornering technique. I’ve been rewarded cornering on long slack bikes (HT or FS) by leaning the bike over, keeping my body weight central (laterally) and shifting backwards (vertically). Kind crouched over my back wheel lol. Stole it from Jeff Kendall weed on RUclips.
Whyte 9 (901,905) series will give you all you need.
Not a bad shout TBF. Probably not a lot heavier either.
In our workshop we had problems with the original micro spline freehubbody three times. Twice on e bikes and once on a mtb. There was always a very loud cracking to be heard. We exchanged it and the cracking was gone. The bearings in the freehubbody felt very rough. The bikes had only driven 100 km. It seemed to me that the seat of the bearing is undersized. Do you have any experience with it?
Greetings from Germany
Hey. I have swapped the freehub and axles. Thought I had it nailed. Apparently not.
If you're going to try and out guess the guys who designed the bike with head cups and the like, you've bought the wrong bike. However, give it 1000km before you change it. Experience is everything in MTB
Good point
@Paul! I just ordered an ARC frame. Easy question... If you were to build up an ARC today like me what pressfit BB would you recommend I go with?
A plastic one. Don’t try and squeeze a metal one into an undersized hole.
How many bikes do you have?
Hi, Paul!
What’s up with those gates in the UK? I see them in other cycling videos and I can’t figure them out. How do people know which gate you can or cannot get into?
There are arrows. Yellow circle with green arrow is a footpath for pedestrians only. Blue arrows is a bridleway for horses and bikes and a red arrow is for motorbikes and 4x4.
Steve over a @hardtailparty also slackened the head tube angle using the Slack-R when he tested the ARC a while back. It's interesting that he did it with a demo bike on loan from Yeti and now they void the warranty if owners do it. He liked the ARC but didn't love it - in stock form or with the Slack-R, but he did like it a lot more with the Slack-R.
It was his videos that inspired me. Great channel.
What I found interesting is when he did the slacker headset it wasn’t on yetis website for warranty. It wasn’t till a month after and after I had installed one on my yeti that it appeared as a void of warranty serious piss off for me
@@tylerruecker7388 Your warranty should still be good if Yeti didn't post online or have anything in writing about not using the Slack-R at the time you got your bike.
Ya I hope so. I wish I took a screen shot of the warranty page when I bought it but I have no proof of when they posted those changes to there website. Hopefully I never have to use the warranty
They drilled holes in the carbon head tube to fit a badge 😢. I'm no structural engineer or anything but all of that sounds bad to me. They do make some beautiful bikes though. Them holes are still bothering me 😮
Well. Drilled… aka smashed a drill bit through.
did you try to grease the slacker cups instead of paste ?
I didn’t to be fair. They are supposed to stay in place rather than rotate.
How's the Pike going? heard mixed reviews
Still very pleased with them. They work so well without a lot of tinkering.
Hey there! I'm really close to buying a new ARC frame and was wondering if you had some tips regarding the BB92 installation method? It would be a standard SRAM DUB BB92 if that makes a difference. Grease? Retaining compound? Dry? Peanut Butter? It's been a while since I've had a PF BB and swore I would never go back to one but the ARC has me on the ropes.... any help/advice is very much appreciated!
Measure the hole, read the installation manual, precisely. Most plastic press fits require a naked fit.
@@Mapdec SRAM's official guide on their YT channel shows grease with the DUB PF92 and a carbon frame. Do you agree based on your experience, or is dry what you would do on your ARC with a DUB BB?
@@ThunderStruckMTB SRAM Plastic BB are apparently made from an oil resistant polymer so i guess, yes. Follow their instructions. Note. Those instructions also state that the hole must be between 40.95mm and 41mm.
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/drivetrain/dub-mtb-and-road-cranksets-and-bottom-brackets-user-manual-eeu.pdf
And
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/mtb/2021-mtb-frame-fit-specifications.pdf
@@Mapdec Thanks!! 👍
Those shoes look huge!
Lol. They are a bit heavy for summer. Really impressed with the fit though. Awesome hike a bike shoe. Got them mega cheap, wanted to try them out. I’m going to get the low cut version.
Props for the cool Yeti ARC flavor.
How about going to the fabricator whom welded the first ever Easton aluminum Yeti ?
Frank Wadelton aka F.T.W.
You seem to be a perfect candidate for a custom frame.
Show up at any trailhead on an FTW and everyone else is on a huffy !
It would be compelling to travel with you thu the process and see your choices.
Waduthink ?
Also check out Works components +/- 2*
Maybe one day if the channel actually earns an income.
Why use shimano hub’s?
Professional curiosity. Gotta try things
Ahoy!
Great video!
Are you riding the same route as PeakTorque in one of his videos?
Not sure he ventures that far West. Isn’t he in the Peak District?
No slacker maybe 140Mm shock I’m 188 5’11 no adjustments for me.
650b with a plus tyre may be a good option for you.
Umm. I might try that.
Love the bike, hate the head badge! Sorry
Another great vid.
Shame the Yeti was not manufactured perfectly. For me that alone screams stay away.
I agree it looks great.
Can you do a video giving us ur 2 pennies on the to snd and fro between Reginald scott and hambini, value ur opinion
I can’t watch. It makes me cringe seeing 2 men destroying their own reputations. Most pro mechanics in the real world have lots of different tools for the job. Depends how ceased in, broken, what access we can get. We usefully go for the fastest method that won’t do any harm. We never reuse bearings. It’s just a very minor cost in relation to our time and the cost of having to redo a job.
@@Mapdec r scott has dropped a new video today on hambinis bb lol
@@Mapdec poor reginald he already lost chance to grow his name and channel in the cycling community by being a massive troll and fighting hambini. All of the cycling community to have a d**k measuring contest with, he chose hambini.
At the price manufactures are charging for bikes, I would expect perfection in manufacturing tolerances
First of all you should have waited until the brought out this frame with threaded bb to avoid any creakyfit bb issues, as they are working through their lineup after realising a lot of customers wont accept pressfits. Secondly, just get a new 150mm air spring for your Pike then run a Chris King headset. Its £50. Probably £30 if you own a bike shop.
Umm. I hear ya.
Pressfit is good if you know what you’re doing. CK headset for IS offers no real advantage like the ZS and EC do. 150mm will also slacken ST and raise BB too. I am considering it though.
Yeti doesn't do thread BBs
@@nostaku read technical. They realized how poor pressfit is and how customers wont tolerate it
@@jonathanhowson6420 but they're still using pressfit though
I think any time you choose a Yeti, you've chosen the wrong bike. Giant XTC or maybe a Pivot hard tail (though their hardtails are taking the piss)
Love the username. 😂. Both of those are more like what I used to ride. Great XC bikes. I’m wanting a capable trail / light enduro hardtail I guess.
Take a look at Banshee Bikes. I'm on the Enigma. Beats the Yeti hands down, in my opinion.
Haven't ridden it, but the recently released IBIS DV9 looks interesting, geo has been completely updated from the prior generation.
I don’t see pivot or giant in the top of the EWS atm 😏😏
I felt the same about my Arc in a few ways - HTA is a bit too steep and overall quality of frame didn't match my expectations for Yeti. Unfortunate to hear the BB isn't great either. Do you think you could route the rear brake 'properly' if you used an AXS dropper and derailleur? Sounds like a short travel FS bike would be more up your street - like a Transition Spur.
The frame is actually routed. I could run it better if I crossed the brake and gear cable at the BB, but how it clamps leaves a bit of a kink. I just like hardtail. A Pivot 429 would be sweet.
put the bigger forks on!!
Probably the best looking hardtail. Still think Ibis DV9 with 130mm fork has better geo and other frame features than Yeti Arc.
Good looking frame. Too bad it's a Yeti :). Thanks.
Yeah, loved my arc aswell but the chainline and chainring clearance socked so hard. Didn’t get the short headtube nor the lack of bottlecage mounts thing. After 2 years of riding it now and then… i sadly moved back to typical overbuilt trail fs.
But hands down, Arc is one of the coolest looking hardtail siluettes ever.
That’s what you get for not going for the classic/retro turquoise paintjob 😉
Look pedals are so much better. I use enrage think called so bigger
A pity thar top end frames are poor quality are the company's taking their eye off the ball
No , you aren’t picky. For such a money we are paying for bikes or frames the quality should be better
Following on from my questions regarding the use of a Shimano Pressfit bearing on a Yeti Arc frame in your video “The Best Bottom Bracket for every Bike - The End.”, I have now measured the bottom bracket diameter of my ARC unit. Now I don't have an internal micrometer, just a slide gauge.
The diameter of my frame is between 40.6 and 40.7 on the left and right, horizontally and vertically.
That is even narrower than your frame.
That’s gonna be an incredible tight fit 😮
For me it's the wrong bike. But agree the Cirus was flawed, should have had better standover.
Cons:
internal routing.
integrated headset
crash footage I've seen of Yeti bikes, they won't handle smashing into rocks well, I prefer a robust bike like Nicolai, in aluminium. But I've not seen any one crash into a rock with this frame yet. But saw it with the full suspension bike. I think it was MR Tonka. some years ago.
Pros: easy internal routing
weight
Aye.
The Nicolai is too much bike for me. I rode one a few years back. It cruised over everything. Made me terrified of the speed or steepness I needed to ride to make it technically challenging again. I’m too old for crashing hard and fast now 😂
@@Mapdec Keep in mind they can make frame how you want it.Even one that's not in the line up. I've not tried it. But after trying Geometron G1, I want to ''geometronised'' bikes.
I love the steering. 62 deg head angle, 44mm offset fork. So I want something as close to that as possible. I want to build a fat bike. but can't find one that's like this. Nicolai has not updated their fatbike, but maybe they can make me one. So you give them the numbers, and your requirements and they build it for you. I guess you want more of a xc/trail bike like the Cirus, but with low top tube.
So far closest thing I've seen is Rocky Mountain Blizzard with 66deg head angle.
As for the speed, that's what brakes are for.
Treat yourself to a cube hard tail buddy
100% the headset cups are unnecessary, you can just learn to get used to it. Slakr is snake oil and you wasted your money worrying over minute details that literally don’t matter.
You might be right
You need to get better lighting.
What was wrong with it?
Expensive frame with issues from the factory. It’s a bit shit really 🙁
So disappointing.
@@Mapdec extremely disappointing. Where does the extra money go? A Carbonda (fly bike or whoever makes them) is less than one 5th of the cost and usually pretty close to perfect, or any issues are minor and can be excused due the cost.
Go and buy the right sized and designed bike for you! Adjustable headset angles are completely senseless and useless!
I'm a bike mechanic, and I always avoided to use those adjustable head sets, for myself or my customers! Because of the noises, and the other mechanical problems.
And I made one try, just for fun, to press in the bearing shells, lined up like it's needed. There is no way, to stop your bearing shells from turning, a tiny bit, while pressing. Only one example of nonsense
Don’t you enjoy watching the experiment though? I like trying things. I don’t use it any more. The Yeti arc is good enough without it. I’ll get something slacker on a full sus.
Press Fit bike, not worth it 🤮
I was going to fit the Slack-r to my steel gravel bike, but couldn't find a uk stockist
I got mine direct from 9point8. Came in about 4 days from Canada.
@@Mapdecwow thats good, did you have to pay customs duty and vat ?
@@Andy-co6pn nothing so far.
@@Mapdec Cheers. Usually you have to cough up before they deliver so thats a good sign. Best of luck with the bike 👍
My Slack-r has arrived 1 week from order to shipment. As its going in a steel frame I'm debating on not using the gripper paste and just using grease to install. Could the carbon gripper paste be a cause of your creaking ?