I watched this video last week, went to test drive a gx470 today. When I tested this it flashed until I pushed the button again. The dealer said they'd look into it. I told them I'll buy if they fix it.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 they just it in, said their mechanics are going over it Monday, replacing the brakes and the radiator and anything else that it needs. So hopefully it gets taken care of. Either way, thanks for making the video!
I was able to engage the center diff and it operates correctly. But when I went in reverse the VSC Trac light came on. When I read in the manual for the truck it seemed like that just meant the ground conditions were slippery. I this something I should be concerned with? I know that these things are difficult to diagnose in a comments section. LoL Thank you for all your help. You are a blessing to your community.
So once the differential lock light stayed on you’re saying the VSC trac light also stayed on? If that’s the case that is what is supposed to happen While it is engaged
I noticed today. At a cold start shifting the transfer case form hi to low and vice versa it grinds. When i got to work it’s all warmed up. No grinding heard when the engine and transmission are warmed up.
if you put it back in high and drive it forward and back a foot or two then try again the light should work again. i did this on one i looked at, no idea if that’s an early sign of failure or anything though. thanks for all your vids
I test drove an 08 today and it blinked for about ten seconds and then said it was locked. However, it wouldn't unlock as I was trying to get it out of my driveway. Went forward and reverse a few times in 4H and the light blinked off. However, when reversing out of my driveway I have to turn fairly hard to get out of my cul de sac. It was definitely still in 4wd at that point. The VSC and the other yellow lights flashed on while I was in reverse trying to "exercise" the differential. After I put it in park and retried the cycle all the other warning lights stayed off and the lock indicator seemed to behave itself. There was an audible click when engaging and disengaging that round. I tried it a couple more times and the click was less obvious. The vehicle drove normally for the remaining ten minutes or so of that test drive. I could get the center differential lock to re engage in another neighborhood but did not move the vehicle while engaged as to not piss anything off. I'm getting a pro to do an inspection tomorrow. Is there anything he can do to try and replicate this problem? Really appreciate the channel. This vid in particular kept me from buying a "steal" a couple hundred miles away.
Don’t forget it’s full time 4wd, but you can tell for sure when it’s locked vs unlocked. Sounds like it got the exercise it needed, but tomorrow could prove otherwise.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 well I pulled the trigger and bought it. So far haven't had any issues getting the center lock to engage. The vsc trio pops up so I'll be looking into another gas cap. I negotiated down the price of a timing belt change and tie rod replacement. Mechanically it's immaculate. No valve leaks, very clean engine bay and almost zero rust. Gotta love those southern garage queens. When digging through the lexus records I even saw a replacement of the air ride suspension. So hopefully I get another 100k miles on that smooth cloud ride. Very happy with the purchase. Really appreciate the channel!
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 It's not. The ECU is probably fried. Mechanic found battery drain and then code reader stopped reading codes. Can I plug and play with another an identical serial number one found on ebay? George Melnik and others have videos about dropping a new computer into the vehicle and letting the car program it to your immobilizer so it's ready to go. I hope this is the case as I still have a key for it and the local lexus dealership wants 1100 for the part and 1200 additional to program the damn thing! My other question, assuming you know the electrical system well, is if this can work on a new ECM, can it work on a *used* one? A 250 dollar fix sounds much better than a 2300 fix. As always this is appreciated. Do you have a donation link for all the help in navigating this?
Did you ever figure out why it grinds going from 4H to 4L ? Mine does the same thing. My 80 series land cruiser, which is also full time four wheel drive, has never had this issue.
Mine is only done it when the RPMs were high. It’s not a synchro mesh system (best description I have) where it has synchronization before shifting, give it a little longer in the middle on N (neutral) as this disengages the whole transmission and it shouldn’t grind
I am looking at one 06 today w/ 175K have not found a record for the timing belt change. What is a general cost for timing belt and water pump replacement , just for budgeting? . Thanks! I will also check the center diff :-)
Super helpful video. Thanks. I can’t engage it it keeps on blinking. However, it I let the light blink and put the transmission in reverse and than neutral and than drive the diff engages. Kinda weird. What do you think I should do ? Some people said I need to go to the grass and do some figure 8 with it being turned on.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 I just had the rear differential and transfer case fluid changed out with Supertech Synthetic 75w90 gear oil from Walmart. Now the diff engages like normal. I got lucky I guess. The grinding is less harsh now going into 4 L. Next service is the front differential. Thanks for the video on how to operate the center lock. I was clueless on how it operates
@@Eternal2007 No problem I’ve got another video showing how to change the front differential fluid yourself if you would like to save a little money. Walmart can be OK but I’ve had to mess up more than they’ve helped so I steer clear of them and advise my customers to do so as well
@@Eternal2007 As long as it’s a solid synthetic gear oil it should be fine what I’m saying is I don’t let Walmart actually do the service to my vehicles
Just got an 04 yesterday that looked and felt new inside and out, tires included, $6000 cash, at 247000 miles!!! I was shopping for an RX. This had timing belt at 97K (sticker). Should I fork over the cash for a new timing belt??? I bought this to hit the road, at 63, no job, wife, or money ($1100 mo widowers benefit, first place I am headed his her family gravesite, God bless her and her family, Glen Burnie MD). Just wondering if I am playing with fire if I don't get that belt replaced, one previous owner (according to dealer). Fools errand?!? No new tires, no rust, no leaks, flawless brakes, shifting, idle acceleration, everything like new. Does that matter? Is there anything I could look at or do I just need to man up & getter done? Or can I hit the road, hope for the best. I know it's an interference engine, but, it's a 4.7, if any can go another 20K with an old belt, I am betting she can!!!
Can you show a video of manual shifting on this car ? Do the autos (both prado and lexus) inherently get worse mileage or can you get the same as a manual by "manual" shifting it ?
You will ever get better mileage by manually shifting your automatic Transmission and it's almost NOT possible for you to get better mileage on a Manual transmission vehicle.
Can you point me in the right direction to get mine to work? I have owned those 05 for 15mos and the center diff lock button does nothing at all when I press it.
On Maverick, the diff lock light turns on solid after pressing the button, but it's very slow (approximately 15 flashes before light staying on solid). Unlocking the center diff is very quick like in your video, but locking the diff is slow. There are no fluid leaks. Is there anything I can lube to help this?
What about one that takes a while to unlock? Mine locks fine, but usually flashes when I try to unlock. I can fix this by driving it for a bit and then it unlocks.
Test drove a 2004 GX today. It ran really smooth and I was able to shift from high to low gears with nearly no grinding. The biggest concern I had was that the center diff lock indicator flashed the whole time. I tried pressing the button to turn it off and nothing happened. Rust free and didn’t observe any leaks. Do you think the diff failing to lock would be a dealbreaker? Wasn’t able to try it off-road to see it it would lock there
It splits your power evenly front to rear. Normally ATRAC works to put the brakes on the tire that’s spinning for you since you don’t have front or rear lockers. Having the center as an open diff allows power to travel front or rear and will mainly go rear in most instances. Once it’s locked, you’ll get power 50% front and 50% rear and now it’s most like traditional 4 wheel drive.
I have a 2004 GX470 and I have been using the same sequence as you show. When I push the “Center Lock” button, the “VSC Off” light comes on solid and the “Center Lock” light blinks. I hear the actuator audibly “click” in and the car runs 4wd as it should. When I hit the “Center Lock” button again, both the “VSC Off” and “Center Lock” lights go off as they should and I hear an audible “click” when the actuator disengages. It’s working but the light flashes? Not common from what I can see in the internet. Either not fully engaging or is there some sensor that can go out to send signal that it is engaged? Also, I found a breather hose disconnected from the black plastic actuator box on the side of the transfer case, I have since reconnected and zip-tied tight to keep from leaking. Any thoughts?
These are full-time four-wheel-drive all the center differential does a split your power front to rear. I don’t know that the hose on top of the actuator would calls that. It is strange that it’s flashing and yet you can tell that it’s engaged. It does hop around on you if you’re doing sharp turns as if it’s bonding up correct?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Yep, sure does. It grips like it should when turned on and making sharp turns. I am curious if its not quite fully engaging/ seating or if there is a sensor that is not working that should tell when it's fully seated. Ive been turning it on and off while on a dirt/ gravel/ grass trial to see if it just needs to "loosen up" after not being used in a while. Let me know if there is anything else I should try.
What in the world is a l x evacuator made of gold? I've changed these out before in my Dodge Cummins they're nothing but a vacuum pod about a hundred bucks or less to replace yourself !! very simple. How does the Lexus pod work? Is it vacuum or electric or what. Is there any ways a man can customize it to fix it cheap? like going custom or by using a choke cable manual evacuator?
The actuators are stupid $, the actuator goes in the back of the center differential. The Cummins actuator is about 1/4 the price. It’s a lot different setup, this is a manual rod being put into place vs a vacuum system
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 some poor off-roader must have come up with an idea by now custom fix it? Drill a hole in the casing and put a manual Rod or something :-) the way this world is going we're going to have to engineer everything ourselves to keep it working Drew :-) I'm in the market for a good deal on a Toyota 4Runner I'm elderly and I'm old school disabled looking for a little Mercy :-) good luck on your Channel I'm following
The grinding isn’t normal right? Like if I heard that while doing a test drive should I stay away? Also if I’m not near any dirt roads for a test drive can I still test all this on pavement? I’ve heard it’s fine as long as it’s under 40mph.
From low to high make sure the RPMs are low enough and the grinding should not happen and also pause in the middle as you go to neutral. I did not pause long enough
The level by the shifter is set to 4H so you’re always in 4wd in a GX. Center locking diff splits power front to rear for you 50/50 when you’re in some sketchy spots Offroad. You don’t need to be locked on the Highway or even in normal Offroad events
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Thanks for that information. Just got used one 08 in great shape 80K miles. I had a check engine and some other lights on the dash so I unplugged the battery and going to see if I can get it to pass emissions in a few days. I heard I should replace the gas cap and maybe the EGR Valve. Code P0455 was what pulled.
I test drove a 2003 4.7L limited yesterday and I checked 4lo and the center diff while in neutral and after everything checked out and I disengaged both and went back into 4hi. I then shifted into drive and the vsc/trac lights wouldn’t go off. The guy was trying to say it never came in before. The rusty truck had 204000 miles. He said the gas cap needs to be changed and I showed him that it appeared brand new. I turned the car off and on and lights wouldn’t go aaay even after retightening the gas cap. The lights were definitely not on when I started the truck for the first time. What do you think it could be?
starting a week ago, my 2004 gx470 feels different while driving. it no longer feels like a smooth luxury car but more like a pickup. i have never driven in 4wd so don't know what that feels like on pavement but i guess that is what it feels like. there's a humming sound that winds down as i slow down. if i hold the 4wd shifter while driving there is a significant vibration in it. you can feel it, but not see it. any ideas?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 the sound comes from under, not the engine. i should tell you i'm fairly oblivious so my descriptions will be lacking. i'm not saying the sound comes from the shifter. i just grabbed to check and it vibrates while driving. perhaps it always does, i don't know
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 thanks I was looking for pictures and details of any older Toyota rigs you might have 4Runner Etc but I didn't see any. I'm a greenhorn on the phone :-) I'm new to the internet and I have no teacher :-(
I live in southern Missouri Ozarks 65 years old and disabled! and I feel the crunch of reality hitting me lately. I need a decent ride! a Toyota 4Runnerthate will get me up to Wisconsin, visit my kids! haven't been up in 4 years. Money in a fruit jar won't help me if I'm dead! and here I am, held down from doing the things I need to do because my old ride is very old, and I need a rig I can sleep in ! when I travel the country:-) and that will get me in those tight spots on dirt roads in back fields I'm an Outdoorsman. But to ship a rig from there, to here, would probably be very expensive? and add to the cost of the 4Runner? I have no idea how much it would cost. I called a cab company and inquired about the cost of getting a ride to go and buy a car in Springfield Missouri! the cab company wanted $375 to give me a ride over so I could buy a car, I have not done it the world is upside down is crazy everybody thinks that were all rich people or something. Isn't that pathetic 150 miles and they want $375 no way. but I'm in the market if anybody reads this I'm in southern Missouri and I need a good Toyota 4Runner is what I'm thinking of buying to get me around the country and in the back Bush,! if you've got a very good one for a reasonable price leave me a message here thanks a lot mark
@@KZ-do6il With the light blinking did you try to put the transmission in reverse, neutral and then drive? That's how I finally got mine to work. If it keeps on blinking than you will need the repair on the Center differential.
@@KZ-do6il you can try some figure 8 driving on loose dirt or gravel if it doesn’t engage once you move straight. Can you email me a video of what it’s doing? May be easiest. crutchfootball@yahoo.com
I failed to check my '06 when I bought it but was relieved when it functioned properly. Good video.
Glad it did 😬 and thank you
I found going from High to Low while the car has a slight roll(foot off the brakes) vs a dead stop doesn't cause the t-case to grind.
I watched this video last week, went to test drive a gx470 today. When I tested this it flashed until I pushed the button again. The dealer said they'd look into it. I told them I'll buy if they fix it.
Glad you checked it, hopefully they’ll get it done!
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 they just it in, said their mechanics are going over it Monday, replacing the brakes and the radiator and anything else that it needs. So hopefully it gets taken care of. Either way, thanks for making the video!
I was able to engage the center diff and it operates correctly. But when I went in reverse the VSC Trac light came on. When I read in the manual for the truck it seemed like that just meant the ground conditions were slippery. I this something I should be concerned with? I know that these things are difficult to diagnose in a comments section. LoL
Thank you for all your help. You are a blessing to your community.
So once the differential lock light stayed on you’re saying the VSC trac light also stayed on? If that’s the case that is what is supposed to happen While it is engaged
Thanks. Really appreciate you doing this video. I look at the truck on Friday. I'll let ya know how it goes.
I look on sat
What happened Any updates
I noticed today. At a cold start shifting the transfer case form hi to low and vice versa it grinds. When i got to work it’s all warmed up. No grinding heard when the engine and transmission are warmed up.
if you put it back in high and drive it forward and back a foot or two then try again the light should work again. i did this on one i looked at, no idea if that’s an early sign of failure or anything though. thanks for all your vids
It’s hit and miss on some units. Can be a sign of it needing some exercise. Thanks for tuning in to them!
I test drove an 08 today and it blinked for about ten seconds and then said it was locked. However, it wouldn't unlock as I was trying to get it out of my driveway. Went forward and reverse a few times in 4H and the light blinked off. However, when reversing out of my driveway I have to turn fairly hard to get out of my cul de sac. It was definitely still in 4wd at that point. The VSC and the other yellow lights flashed on while I was in reverse trying to "exercise" the differential.
After I put it in park and retried the cycle all the other warning lights stayed off and the lock indicator seemed to behave itself. There was an audible click when engaging and disengaging that round. I tried it a couple more times and the click was less obvious. The vehicle drove normally for the remaining ten minutes or so of that test drive. I could get the center differential lock to re engage in another neighborhood but did not move the vehicle while engaged as to not piss anything off. I'm getting a pro to do an inspection tomorrow. Is there anything he can do to try and replicate this problem? Really appreciate the channel. This vid in particular kept me from buying a "steal" a couple hundred miles away.
Don’t forget it’s full time 4wd, but you can tell for sure when it’s locked vs unlocked. Sounds like it got the exercise it needed, but tomorrow could prove otherwise.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 well I pulled the trigger and bought it. So far haven't had any issues getting the center lock to engage. The vsc trio pops up so I'll be looking into another gas cap. I negotiated down the price of a timing belt change and tie rod replacement. Mechanically it's immaculate. No valve leaks, very clean engine bay and almost zero rust. Gotta love those southern garage queens. When digging through the lexus records I even saw a replacement of the air ride suspension. So hopefully I get another 100k miles on that smooth cloud ride. Very happy with the purchase. Really appreciate the channel!
Get the codes pulled before going straight to gas cap but sounds like a winner purchase
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 It's not. The ECU is probably fried. Mechanic found battery drain and then code reader stopped reading codes. Can I plug and play with another an identical serial number one found on ebay? George Melnik and others have videos about dropping a new computer into the vehicle and letting the car program it to your immobilizer so it's ready to go. I hope this is the case as I still have a key for it and the local lexus dealership wants 1100 for the part and 1200 additional to program the damn thing! My other question, assuming you know the electrical system well, is if this can work on a new ECM, can it work on a *used* one? A 250 dollar fix sounds much better than a 2300 fix.
As always this is appreciated. Do you have a donation link for all the help in navigating this?
We put used ECMs in a ton of vehicles but I’ve never needed one on these let me dig a little on the programming
Keeping it in neutral to avoid grinding gears ⚙️ when switching from low to neutral to high and back down.
It was in neutral 😬
RPMs were up for some reason, think that had a bit to do with it this time
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 yes, when they’re cold/warming up with the high idle, they’ll grind a bit.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 mind always grinding a little and I was in neutral, even though I changed the differentiation oil already. Strange.
Had you just cranked it?
Afraid to find out lol. Love your videos, watched every one!
Good guide. Brilliance in the basics.
So after all of the test, where do you keep the 4WD gear shift, in neutral? High? ? Thanks in advance
keep it in high unless crawling off-road
Thank you I’m thinking of buying one .
Did you ever figure out why it grinds going from 4H to 4L ? Mine does the same thing. My 80 series land cruiser, which is also full time four wheel drive, has never had this issue.
Mine is only done it when the RPMs were high. It’s not a synchro mesh system (best description I have) where it has synchronization before shifting, give it a little longer in the middle on N (neutral) as this disengages the whole transmission and it shouldn’t grind
the gears need to be warmed up (Car needs to be driven for a few mins before attempting to go on 4LO)
I am looking at one 06 today w/ 175K have not found a record for the timing belt change. What is a general cost for timing belt and water pump replacement , just for budgeting? . Thanks! I will also check the center diff :-)
Depends on the shop and brand of parts but it should be typically anywhere from $800-$1200
Super helpful video. Thanks. I can’t engage it it keeps on blinking. However, it I let the light blink and put the transmission in reverse and than neutral and than drive the diff engages. Kinda weird. What do you think I should do ? Some people said I need to go to the grass and do some figure 8 with it being turned on.
It’s engaging after some moving, can you do that multiple times? Sounds like it needs exercising more than anything
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 I just had the rear differential and transfer case fluid changed out with Supertech Synthetic 75w90 gear oil from Walmart. Now the diff engages like normal. I got lucky I guess. The grinding is less harsh now going into 4 L. Next service is the front differential. Thanks for the video on how to operate the center lock. I was clueless on how it operates
@@Eternal2007 No problem I’ve got another video showing how to change the front differential fluid yourself if you would like to save a little money. Walmart can be OK but I’ve had to mess up more than they’ve helped so I steer clear of them and advise my customers to do so as well
@@Eternal2007 As long as it’s a solid synthetic gear oil it should be fine what I’m saying is I don’t let Walmart actually do the service to my vehicles
Just got an 04 yesterday that looked and felt new inside and out, tires included, $6000 cash, at 247000 miles!!! I was shopping for an RX. This had timing belt at 97K (sticker). Should I fork over the cash for a new timing belt??? I bought this to hit the road, at 63, no job, wife, or money ($1100 mo widowers benefit, first place I am headed his her family gravesite, God bless her and her family, Glen Burnie MD). Just wondering if I am playing with fire if I don't get that belt replaced, one previous owner (according to dealer). Fools errand?!? No new tires, no rust, no leaks, flawless brakes, shifting, idle acceleration, everything like new. Does that matter? Is there anything I could look at or do I just need to man up & getter done? Or can I hit the road, hope for the best. I know it's an interference engine, but, it's a 4.7, if any can go another 20K with an old belt, I am betting she can!!!
It’s a risk if it’s had 150k since the last one. Is it worth the risk to you I guess is the question? It can be around a $5k engine swap if needed.
Can you show a video of manual shifting on this car ? Do the autos (both prado and lexus) inherently get worse mileage or can you get the same as a manual by "manual" shifting it ?
You will ever get better mileage by manually shifting your automatic Transmission and it's almost NOT possible for you to get better mileage on a Manual transmission vehicle.
Can you point me in the right direction to get mine to work? I have owned those 05 for 15mos and the center diff lock button does nothing at all when I press it.
No light or anything comes on the dash?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 yeah nothing happens at all.
That’s weird, couple things it could be but most likely it’s the switch itself if absolutely nothing is happening
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 cool. I'm gonna check the fuse and see where that leads me. Thanks for the help.
If fuses and relays are intact I would see about a new switch or one from a junkyard just to plug in and see
On Maverick, the diff lock light turns on solid after pressing the button, but it's very slow (approximately 15 flashes before light staying on solid). Unlocking the center diff is very quick like in your video, but locking the diff is slow. There are no fluid leaks. Is there anything I can lube to help this?
Just exercise it, about the only way they get any faster
What about one that takes a while to unlock? Mine locks fine, but usually flashes when I try to unlock. I can fix this by driving it for a bit and then it unlocks.
Keep exercising it I have only had to replace one that did that
I changed the transmission and it works but the wheels don’t move no matter what gear I’m in but I can hear it moving
Is the center differential in neutral? If it’s in high or low the trans should engage and move the vehicle
What do you recommend you keep it in for regular pavement driving? Occasional snow?
High range not locked, being full time 4wd you should be fine
Test drove a 2004 GX today. It ran really smooth and I was able to shift from high to low gears with nearly no grinding. The biggest concern I had was that the center diff lock indicator flashed the whole time. I tried pressing the button to turn it off and nothing happened. Rust free and didn’t observe any leaks. Do you think the diff failing to lock would be a dealbreaker? Wasn’t able to try it off-road to see it it would lock there
If it kept flashing it might have stuck in the engaged position. Either way, it’s fixable with a new actuator
Did you buy it?
I'm confused on what the point of the center differential lock is for.. please lemme know if u know anything about it
It splits your power evenly front to rear. Normally ATRAC works to put the brakes on the tire that’s spinning for you since you don’t have front or rear lockers. Having the center as an open diff allows power to travel front or rear and will mainly go rear in most instances. Once it’s locked, you’ll get power 50% front and 50% rear and now it’s most like traditional 4 wheel drive.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 thank you so much
I have a 2004 GX470 and I have been using the same sequence as you show. When I push the “Center Lock” button, the “VSC Off” light comes on solid and the “Center Lock” light blinks. I hear the actuator audibly “click” in and the car runs 4wd as it should. When I hit the “Center Lock” button again, both the “VSC Off” and “Center Lock” lights go off as they should and I hear an audible “click” when the actuator disengages.
It’s working but the light flashes? Not common from what I can see in the internet. Either not fully engaging or is there some sensor that can go out to send signal that it is engaged?
Also, I found a breather hose disconnected from the black plastic actuator box on the side of the transfer case, I have since reconnected and zip-tied tight to keep from leaking.
Any thoughts?
These are full-time four-wheel-drive all the center differential does a split your power front to rear. I don’t know that the hose on top of the actuator would calls that. It is strange that it’s flashing and yet you can tell that it’s engaged. It does hop around on you if you’re doing sharp turns as if it’s bonding up correct?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Yep, sure does. It grips like it should when turned on and making sharp turns. I am curious if its not quite fully engaging/ seating or if there is a sensor that is not working that should tell when it's fully seated. Ive been turning it on and off while on a dirt/ gravel/ grass trial to see if it just needs to "loosen up" after not being used in a while. Let me know if there is anything else I should try.
I really don’t know right off the top of my head
What in the world is a l x evacuator made of gold? I've changed these out before in my Dodge Cummins they're nothing but a vacuum pod about a hundred bucks or less to replace yourself !! very simple. How does the Lexus pod work? Is it vacuum or electric or what. Is there any ways a man can customize it to fix it cheap? like going custom or by using a choke cable manual evacuator?
The actuators are stupid $, the actuator goes in the back of the center differential. The Cummins actuator is about 1/4 the price. It’s a lot different setup, this is a manual rod being put into place vs a vacuum system
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 some poor off-roader must have come up with an idea by now custom fix it? Drill a hole in the casing and put a manual Rod or something :-) the way this world is going we're going to have to engineer everything ourselves to keep it working Drew :-) I'm in the market for a good deal on a Toyota 4Runner I'm elderly and I'm old school disabled looking for a little Mercy :-) good luck on your Channel I'm following
The grinding isn’t normal right? Like if I heard that while doing a test drive should I stay away? Also if I’m not near any dirt roads for a test drive can I still test all this on pavement? I’ve heard it’s fine as long as it’s under 40mph.
From low to high make sure the RPMs are low enough and the grinding should not happen and also pause in the middle as you go to neutral. I did not pause long enough
Yes you should still be able to test this while not being on a gravel road just don’t turn sharp while on pavement and locked
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Much appreciated my guy!
Thank you 👍🏽
Does it have rear locked differential? Also what about front?
The GX only comes with a locking center differential. Some people add a rear locking differential from an FJ Cruiser or others.
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Ah I see thank you for the information.
What is it used for? Also how to you set your 4 Wheel Drive switch during normal driving.
The level by the shifter is set to 4H so you’re always in 4wd in a GX. Center locking diff splits power front to rear for you 50/50 when you’re in some sketchy spots Offroad. You don’t need to be locked on the Highway or even in normal Offroad events
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Thanks for the reply! So I should leave it in 4H during normal driving and 4L only off road what is 4 Neutral for?
4H for driving, 4L for off-road
4N you can flat tow it behind an RV and such you’ll have no transmission engagement in 4N
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 Thanks for that information. Just got used one 08 in great shape 80K miles. I had a check engine and some other lights on the dash so I unplugged the battery and going to see if I can get it to pass emissions in a few days. I heard I should replace the gas cap and maybe the EGR Valve. Code P0455 was what pulled.
I test drove a 2003 4.7L limited yesterday and I checked 4lo and the center diff while in neutral and after everything checked out and I disengaged both and went back into 4hi. I then shifted into drive and the vsc/trac lights wouldn’t go off. The guy was trying to say it never came in before. The rusty truck had 204000 miles. He said the gas cap needs to be changed and I showed him that it appeared brand new. I turned the car off and on and lights wouldn’t go aaay even after retightening the gas cap. The lights were definitely not on when I started the truck for the first time. What do you think it could be?
Could be one of several things without codes or the truck in front of me be hard to say
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 no check engine lights and no abs light. I backed it up too in drive.
VSC only could have lost yaw rate or even the steering angle sensor
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 interesting. Good point. Someone actually bought the car right after me. The next idiot that checked it out.
Well none will be perfect in all likelihood gotta pick the best one for you
starting a week ago, my 2004 gx470 feels different while driving. it no longer feels like a smooth luxury car but more like a pickup. i have never driven in 4wd so don't know what that feels like on pavement but i guess that is what it feels like. there's a humming sound that winds down as i slow down. if i hold the 4wd shifter while driving there is a significant vibration in it. you can feel it, but not see it. any ideas?
It’s always in 4wd but you have high and low. So you’re saying the sound is below the shifter too?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 the sound comes from under, not the engine. i should tell you i'm fairly oblivious so my descriptions will be lacking. i'm not saying the sound comes from the shifter. i just grabbed to check and it vibrates while driving. perhaps it always does, i don't know
Gonna be hard to diagnose from here 😔 where are you located?
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 florida
Is it normal for the button to be the the left of the steering wheel
Yes they changed locations on certain models
How can I check out your cars for sale I'm in the market right now 4 a 4Runner or Sequoia? Where is your car lot online?
www.jlmauto.com
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 thanks I was looking for pictures and details of any older Toyota rigs you might have 4Runner Etc but I didn't see any. I'm a greenhorn on the phone :-) I'm new to the internet and I have no teacher :-(
I have a 98 4 x 4 4Runner one owner. Not pristine but not neglected
I live in southern Missouri Ozarks 65 years old and disabled! and I feel the crunch of reality hitting me lately. I need a decent ride! a Toyota 4Runnerthate will get me up to Wisconsin, visit my kids! haven't been up in 4 years. Money in a fruit jar won't help me if I'm dead! and here I am, held down from doing the things I need to do because my old ride is very old, and I need a rig I can sleep in ! when I travel the country:-) and that will get me in those tight spots on dirt roads in back fields I'm an Outdoorsman. But to ship a rig from there, to here, would probably be very expensive? and add to the cost of the 4Runner? I have no idea how much it would cost. I called a cab company and inquired about the cost of getting a ride to go and buy a car in Springfield Missouri! the cab company wanted $375 to give me a ride over so I could buy a car, I have not done it the world is upside down is crazy everybody thinks that were all rich people or something. Isn't that pathetic 150 miles and they want $375 no way. but I'm in the market if anybody reads this I'm in southern Missouri and I need a good Toyota 4Runner is what I'm thinking of buying to get me around the country and in the back Bush,! if you've got a very good one for a reasonable price leave me a message here thanks a lot mark
Nice wheels bro
Thanks! Level 8 MK6 in bronze 💪🏼
Can you disengage the 4wd system?
Not without removing drivetrain components
Why would it not work? Thanks
If it doesn’t engage it’s typically the actuator either gone out or stuck. I’ve never had it be anything besides the actuator so far
Why can't I do this on pavement. I have no grass to drive over what do?
No gravel lots anywhere
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 ah I'll try that. Is that just for testing or should you never drive on pavement that way?
You shouldn’t need that setting on pavement, it gives a chance of breaking the gears getting them in a bind
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 got it. Just curious incase I'm in snow or dirt and hit pavement at some point. Thanks a ton for the help and quick reply
If you have loose traction and need it, just avoid sharp turning and high speeds with it engaged
👌👍👌👍
Who answers the phone at your shop
Most days it would be Bo unless I am in there and not tied up on a vehicle
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 I'm from Cali and I'm about to purchase a GX in about a Week or So I'm excited
Nice!
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 there so expensive in Cali are they super expensive out there too
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 would it be cheaper to by it out of state and have it shipped in or go get
Does it have to be in 4lo ?
No it doesn’t
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 mine just flashes when i press the button, Do i need to drive a lil bit for it to engage?
@@KZ-do6il With the light blinking did you try to put the transmission in reverse, neutral and then drive? That's how I finally got mine to work. If it keeps on blinking than you will need the repair on the Center differential.
@@KZ-do6il you can try some figure 8 driving on loose dirt or gravel if it doesn’t engage once you move straight. Can you email me a video of what it’s doing? May be easiest.
crutchfootball@yahoo.com
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 here guys i made a video check it out
ruclips.net/video/POt9YK73cAc/видео.html
The thumb down is mine because of your poor sound quality. I could not hear you clear enough.
Cool 😎
Gosh !! such a mess!!
I’m sorry I won’t show me which video this is in reference to. Which one was it