Turn off the fuel valve. Open the drain on the primary filter, which will drain both the primary and final filter dry (cracking the bleed valve on the final filter will help it drain moderately faster, but it's not critical). Replace filters, make sure the drain is closed. Open bleed valve on final filter, open needle valve, close bleed valve when Diesel flows free of bubbles. Done, with minimal mess, by one person, in about five minutes. This works because the outlet of the primary and final filters form a single system, with the high point being the bleed valve of the final filter. The outlet line from the final filter to the pump is not drained as a consequence of replacing the filters -- the pump inlet is below the outlet of the final filter -- and so there's no utility to cracking that line unless you've run the machine dry.
If it was newer, by the book you may be right. This is at least a 50 year old backhoe. To us it really doesn’t matter. If the filter leaks we will notice quickly. It was $53 to get two 5 gallon cans of diesel yesterday. Over the multiple years of working in garages and on my own equipment, lubed is lubed on a filter seal. The lubricant on the seal is there so you can achieve a proper tightening and not distort to gasket.
Mine will run on starting fluid, and is pumping fuel up to all the injectors. I Verified that by running it on starting fluid while i had the fittings on the injectors loose. ...I used a half a can, but never got fuel vapors or smoke from the exhaust. It ran clean on the fluid but would not run on fuel. My guess is the pump ain't putting out enough pressure to get throughthe injectors. What do you think? 1970 model case 580 construction king. Thank you.
Pressure is your friend. And you may not have it. I’m guessing you changed the filters? Not sure of the psi you should see at the injectors but I would look that up and get a gauge somewhere on the outlet of that pump to check it and see if you are in range.
Thanks for comment and compliment. It’s sounded like that since I bought it. It did improve, some but not totally, when I changed out the hard to find hydraulic filter and all the hydraulic/transmission fluid. It could have been a little low during this video. Hard to tell as I have dumped more 5 gallon buckets into it than I want to talk about due to various leaks over the years.
Hey @RCRWJR Rob C, we found the reason for the squealing noise!! It was the splines in the hydraulic pump coupling wearing through the coupling on the engine side! It’s now fixed with new parts and doesn’t whine!
Shouldn’t there be a bleed screw on the filter housing, you open that and crank the engine until air free diesel comes out then move onto the diesel pump bleed screw until air free diesel comes out when cranking if it doesn’t still start loosen a few injector lines.
This way I have never needed to loosen injector lines. I have found this to be the easiest way for me and really foolproof when working by myself. I have cracked open the bleeders on the fuel filters and then crack open the fitting at the injection pump. Taking the hood off is terrible and takes forever to even get to the injectors so we avoid doing that by doing it the way we do it. This works for us. Maybe your way works well for you. #weaversstonehousefarm.
U helped a rural rancher in Utah today! Much appreciated. Good job. Thanks!
Glad to help you Brian in Utah!
Turn off the fuel valve. Open the drain on the primary filter, which will drain both the primary and final filter dry (cracking the bleed valve on the final filter will help it drain moderately faster, but it's not critical). Replace filters, make sure the drain is closed. Open bleed valve on final filter, open needle valve, close bleed valve when Diesel flows free of bubbles. Done, with minimal mess, by one person, in about five minutes.
This works because the outlet of the primary and final filters form a single system, with the high point being the bleed valve of the final filter.
The outlet line from the final filter to the pump is not drained as a consequence of replacing the filters -- the pump inlet is below the outlet of the final filter -- and so there's no utility to cracking that line unless you've run the machine dry.
always lube filter seals/gaskets with clean system fluid. (fuel in this case)
If it was newer, by the book you may be right. This is at least a 50 year old backhoe. To us it really doesn’t matter. If the filter leaks we will notice quickly. It was $53 to get two 5 gallon cans of diesel yesterday. Over the multiple years of working in garages and on my own equipment, lubed is lubed on a filter seal. The lubricant on the seal is there so you can achieve a proper tightening and not distort to gasket.
Mine will run on starting fluid, and is pumping fuel up to all the injectors.
I Verified that by running it on starting fluid while i had the fittings on the injectors loose.
...I used a half a can, but never got fuel vapors or smoke from the exhaust. It ran clean on the fluid but would not run on fuel.
My guess is the pump ain't putting out enough pressure to get throughthe injectors.
What do you think?
1970 model case 580 construction king.
Thank you.
Pressure is your friend. And you may not have it. I’m guessing you changed the filters?
Not sure of the psi you should see at the injectors but I would look that up and get a gauge somewhere on the outlet of that pump to check it and see if you are in range.
what is squealing , sounds to be low on Hyrdrulic.. Oh and thanks Love the Tractor videos you should make more
Thanks for comment and compliment. It’s sounded like that since I bought it. It did improve, some but not totally, when I changed out the hard to find hydraulic filter and all the hydraulic/transmission fluid.
It could have been a little low during this video.
Hard to tell as I have dumped more 5 gallon buckets into it than I want to talk about due to various leaks over the years.
Hey @RCRWJR Rob C, we found the reason for the squealing noise!! It was the splines in the hydraulic pump coupling wearing through the coupling on the engine side! It’s now fixed with new parts and doesn’t whine!
Shouldn’t there be a bleed screw on the filter housing, you open that and crank the engine until air free diesel comes out then move onto the diesel pump bleed screw until air free diesel comes out when cranking if it doesn’t still start loosen a few injector lines.
This way I have never needed to loosen injector lines. I have found this to be the easiest way for me and really foolproof when working by myself.
I have cracked open the bleeders on the fuel filters and then crack open the fitting at the injection pump.
Taking the hood off is terrible and takes forever to even get to the injectors so we avoid doing that by doing it the way we do it.
This works for us. Maybe your way works well for you.
#weaversstonehousefarm.