Always fun to see different codes. I’m a plumbing contractor in ky…”jammer”, we call them all threads. Dumb reason on the inspectors part for not allowing them. Green pipe is sdr 35 around here, just found out it also called 3034.
Where I am, the city just leaves you a sewer stub that comes from the main. Gotta measure and figure out where it is and dig for it. Gotta go down in a deep hole to hook on to it. Sometimes the stub is under a finished driveway. The way your city does it is WAY easier.
I've run a 100' sewer clean out machine. 100' foot of cable minus your vertical drop from your clean out. So a 3' down drop and then 97' of lateral run. So probably a good rule of thumb is every 90 feet between clean outs. But that gets shorter the deeper you go. I did a church one time and it had roughly 400 feet of sewer line between the building and the sewer tap. By the time I was in the last clean out, I was probably about 6 feet or more deep, and i had to get a bigger machine.
Using a Sanitary instead of a 2 way long T for a clean out make sense in this case because it come right after a flapper valve. If the clean out worm was used towards the house, (up stream), it would damage the flapper.
Where could I find Texas plumbing codes? Need to help my father in law replace the sewer line that goes from the house to the city tap. He can't afford to hire someone unfortunately.
Great info bud. My sewer line is only going to run about 50 feet from the toilet tot he septic tank. That said I am still thinking that putting any 45 deg connections should be avoided. Anyone have any experience with this size of a line and what they think? Thanks. Oh and I dont have any codes believe it or not. I am rural in SE Arizona.
*OK, so for my floor drain under the basement floor, that will take all the waste water outside the building and dump it into the sewer line, I am thinking to put a 5 inches schedule 80 pipe under the basement floor. Cost doesn't bother me. Are there any drawbacks for this application? I just wanted to have a stronger and wider pipe under the floor so I, hopefully, never have to dig the basement floor to treat the broken or narrow pipe.*
sch 40 , cell core PVC is cheaper. Due to volume sold, solid core PVC is cheaper than ABS at most supply houses. Or you can use 3034 (the green pipe) it's going it be the cheapest.
I believe the 4 or more toilets for 3" is in the UPC, but most of the eastern United States uses the IPC code, which allows something like 16 toilets. I'm not certain, but this is how I think it works.
How do you make the backwater valve accessible for maintenance? What's your areas lateral line burial depth? In MN everything is 6-10' deep and we keep all of this "maintenable" stuff inside the basement before the foundation wall.
Question. What if there is a blockage just before the flapper valve. What prevents a sewer snake machine from getting stuck if the flapper valve is buried?
Maybe a dumb question. Why is the pvc loose inside the 3034? How is that connection made? I just dug up where I’m tying into the existing 3” pvc and it’s right before the 3034 connection that goes another 100’ to the city sewer line. I noticed the pvc is loose inside the 3034. Doesn’t seem normal to me since it allows dirt inside the 3034. Any help is appreciated.
@@saltwaterinmyveins turns out the 3034 was a sleeve. PVC runs all the way out the the city 8” pvc line. Inspector said because the back of lot was never cleared of old growth hardwoods the pvc was sleeved because of the roots.
Wait I need to know… so you just slip in the pvc into the green 3034 bell end??? With same glue??? There’s no difference??? I’ve looked everywhere trying to find how to connect dwv to sdr 3034 together!!!! Your telling me this whole time there’s no difference ?
I found it at Home Depot. You can grab a short length pvc schedule 40 and the green sdr and see what fitting works. I’m going to had today and I’ll post the item number and name of the fitting.
Dumping into that vertical would never fly most places I have worked in my 48 years of doing this. I guess that’s why they want it extended as a clean out but why create that obvious trouble spot? Odd. P. S. What’s a fittin? Lol
I don’t understand the logic behind not allowing hub to hub. We call that a butt up in Austin. When I came up in west Texas we called it an all thread. This was based on a close nipple which is all threads. As for threaded rod, we called it ready rod so there wasn’t any confusion. Anyway I digress. The logic was inspectors didn’t like it because he can’t tell how long the piece of pipe is. How is that different from every other glue joint. He can’t tell if they’re all the way up either. Also who cares. It’s getting tested so if the pipe is too short it will leak. I can’t imagine plumbing a house without using a butt up. It sounds to me like you have a stupid and stubborn inspector which sucks. I hate when inspectors flag me on stuff that’s not wrong. I hate having to fix stuff that’s not broken or trying to figure out if it’s better to just do it the way he wants or to question him. Inspectors are just like plumbers. They don’t have the code book memorized and sometimes they’re wrong. Most of them don’t have ego issues so if you make a case they’re good with it. Then there’s those few who don’t like being questioned. We have one who will nit pick you to death if you aren’t there when he inspects it. If you’re there an shoot the shit with him, he’ll let lots of stuff go. I had some pipe 2” off the stud face. He said I needed nail plates. I fixed one thing he was correct on and recalled the inspection. The second time I was there. I was ready to measure and show him but he never even looked at them that it didn’t need nail plates. He checked the one thing and passed it without even asking or looking at the pie through the studs
Absolute gold. Thank you!
Good video. For some reason I watched to the end lol. I am a master plumber and always learning 23 years doing plumbing now.
I can tell you enjoy your job. That's admirable.
Great info! Love your videos! I am starting a wet and dry utility company and this is super helpful!
Thank you for the hard to find details, great work.
Always fun to see different codes. I’m a plumbing contractor in ky…”jammer”, we call them all threads. Dumb reason on the inspectors part for not allowing them. Green pipe is sdr 35 around here, just found out it also called 3034.
Great Video! Very informative and helpful.
Awesome video man! Very educational!
Another excellent video! Thanks
I literally just subscribe to you channel and loving it Soo far.
Can’t wait for part 2!
Where I am, the city just leaves you a sewer stub that comes from the main. Gotta measure and figure out where it is and dig for it. Gotta go down in a deep hole to hook on to it. Sometimes the stub is under a finished driveway. The way your city does it is WAY easier.
Hi buddy. You're a sewer knowledge king👍👍
I've run a 100' sewer clean out machine. 100' foot of cable minus your vertical drop from your clean out. So a 3' down drop and then 97' of lateral run. So probably a good rule of thumb is every 90 feet between clean outs. But that gets shorter the deeper you go. I did a church one time and it had roughly 400 feet of sewer line between the building and the sewer tap. By the time I was in the last clean out, I was probably about 6 feet or more deep, and i had to get a bigger machine.
Im a drain cleaner and have been for 2 years & I'm 18 about to try plumbing out. I'm glad to see people who understands this stuff 😂
We use trailer keys for anything over 200 feet
Great job! Thanks
Great video!
great video! very informative and helpful, Thank You sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing video!
Great video I subscribe thanks.
Using a Sanitary instead of a 2 way long T for a clean out make sense in this case because it come right after a flapper valve. If the clean out worm was used towards the house, (up stream), it would damage the flapper.
"I'm gonna hate ya". Love it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I run sewers for a living good video different codes here in Texas
Where could I find Texas plumbing codes? Need to help my father in law replace the sewer line that goes from the house to the city tap. He can't afford to hire someone unfortunately.
In California a clean out is required at every 135° turn or 100’ of pipe run.
WOW! That sewer turn off is nasty as heck. For God sakes I get people gotta pay they're bills but damn. Yeah I agree that is just wrong.
Great explanation of the basics, thank you for this!!
You're very welcome!
Very informative
Is there a video of excavation process, reading grade stakes to determine how much you need to cut after adding bedding and pipe thickness
solid video
Great info bud. My sewer line is only going to run about 50 feet from the toilet tot he septic tank. That said I am still thinking that putting any 45 deg connections should be avoided. Anyone have any experience with this size of a line and what they think? Thanks. Oh and I dont have any codes believe it or not. I am rural in SE Arizona.
*OK, so for my floor drain under the basement floor, that will take all the waste water outside the building and dump it into the sewer line, I am thinking to put a 5 inches schedule 80 pipe under the basement floor. Cost doesn't bother me. Are there any drawbacks for this application? I just wanted to have a stronger and wider pipe under the floor so I, hopefully, never have to dig the basement floor to treat the broken or narrow pipe.*
super helpfull
What schedule is your pvc pipe ? What is cheaper ABS pipe or PVC pipe? Thank you
sch 40 , cell core PVC is cheaper. Due to volume sold, solid core PVC is cheaper than ABS at most supply houses. Or you can use 3034 (the green pipe) it's going it be the cheapest.
Great video…Can I run a water line in the same trench as a astm d 1785 schedule 40?
No
Not in California. 12” different elevation.
2ft distance minimum in any direction in Texas
I believe the 4 or more toilets for 3" is in the UPC, but most of the eastern United States uses the IPC code, which allows something like 16 toilets. I'm not certain, but this is how I think it works.
We use IPC in SC, it's footnote d on table 710.1(2) it was an addition to the 2018 code. 3" can service no more than three water closets.
I hate those back flow preventers. I use sewer poppers when I can
You show a street 45 but you don’t use one on the clean out? Had a whole discussion about cutting a stub. Kinda missed one here lol.
How do you make the backwater valve accessible for maintenance? What's your areas lateral line burial depth? In MN everything is 6-10' deep and we keep all of this "maintenable" stuff inside the basement before the foundation wall.
I'm in SC it's only 12 inches here
@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC that's got to be nice for repairs. Thanks for making such a detailed video. Have a blessed day!
Back water valves don't work once the resident uses water, it's gonna open the flapper and water still gets released into home, they never work
Hello sr!! If I were to do a slab to sit my mobile what can I leave under ground??
I wouldn't put anything under ground. you will still have a crawl space.
Question. What if there is a blockage just before the flapper valve. What prevents a sewer snake machine from getting stuck if the flapper valve is buried?
you have to dig it up and take the flapper out
Great video. Very informative and precise. Thanks
Maybe a dumb question. Why is the pvc loose inside the 3034? How is that connection made? I just dug up where I’m tying into the existing 3” pvc and it’s right before the 3034 connection that goes another 100’ to the city sewer line. I noticed the pvc is loose inside the 3034. Doesn’t seem normal to me since it allows dirt inside the 3034. Any help is appreciated.
Late reply, but you will need a transition fitting to fix it properly.
@@saltwaterinmyveins turns out the 3034 was a sleeve. PVC runs all the way out the the city 8” pvc line. Inspector said because the back of lot was never cleared of old growth hardwoods the pvc was sleeved because of the roots.
Thanks
Wait I need to know… so you just slip in the pvc into the green 3034 bell end??? With same glue??? There’s no difference??? I’ve looked everywhere trying to find how to connect dwv to sdr 3034 together!!!! Your telling me this whole time there’s no difference ?
no there is an adaptor.
@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC is there any way you can tell me where to find this adapter. Or atleast what it’s called to search it? I’m desperate.
I found it at Home Depot. You can grab a short length pvc schedule 40 and the green sdr and see what fitting works. I’m going to had today and I’ll post the item number and name of the fitting.
3 inch diameter pipe in the floor f the house or 4 inch?
3 step up to 4 after the 4th toilet.
@@PlumbingSolutionsLLC Thanks bud.
@@PlumbingSolutionsLLCwhy not just go 4" all the way and be done?
What type of lisence do you need to do this on your own separate from the apprentice rui endorsement
In SC you can run your "own" sewer line without a license.
Dumping into that vertical would never fly most places I have worked in my 48 years of doing this. I guess that’s why they want it extended as a clean out but why create that obvious trouble spot? Odd. P. S. What’s a fittin? Lol
I don’t understand the logic behind not allowing hub to hub. We call that a butt up in Austin. When I came up in west Texas we called it an all thread. This was based on a close nipple which is all threads. As for threaded rod, we called it ready rod so there wasn’t any confusion. Anyway I digress. The logic was inspectors didn’t like it because he can’t tell how long the piece of pipe is. How is that different from every other glue joint. He can’t tell if they’re all the way up either. Also who cares. It’s getting tested so if the pipe is too short it will leak. I can’t imagine plumbing a house without using a butt up. It sounds to me like you have a stupid and stubborn inspector which sucks. I hate when inspectors flag me on stuff that’s not wrong. I hate having to fix stuff that’s not broken or trying to figure out if it’s better to just do it the way he wants or to question him. Inspectors are just like plumbers. They don’t have the code book memorized and sometimes they’re wrong. Most of them don’t have ego issues so if you make a case they’re good with it. Then there’s those few who don’t like being questioned. We have one who will nit pick you to death if you aren’t there when he inspects it. If you’re there an shoot the shit with him, he’ll let lots of stuff go. I had some pipe 2” off the stud face. He said I needed nail plates. I fixed one thing he was correct on and recalled the inspection. The second time I was there. I was ready to measure and show him but he never even looked at them that it didn’t need nail plates. He checked the one thing and passed it without even asking or looking at the pie through the studs
Plumber joB help