You do not have to take the tiny screws holding down the points all the way out when changing the points. That's is why the screw holes on the points are slotted. Also to make it easier attach the condenser wire to the points before you put the points in, or buy the point/condenser set.
I always use a two stroke gas mix to start these old engines. That way the dry engine innards are lubed a little. Thanks for your vids. I always look forward to them.
I also do that I mix 1/2 pint 2 cycle oil to a gallon of gas. and gravety feed the carb from a lawnmower tank suspended from the raised hood. The cold war motors guys just woke up a zombie 61 buick. 364 Nailhead. they do a excellent job. the OP needs to watch those guys.
I have a '65 Studebaker with a Chevy 283. When it sits for any length of time, I use a 2 stroke oil/gas mix as a prime,mixed in a plastic squeeze bottle.
Initial sounds of backfire, timing needs attention, carburetor is gummed up. But it did fire a bit, so please do not get discouraged. You have a strong contender that needs love.
Never believe that points are pre set just like don't believe spark plugs are either, you can use a match book cover or a business card to get a close setting to get it to Fire and once you get it running, raise the distributor cap door to tune them. Or look up setting up points and how to adjust them and get a feeler gauge.
How about fuel? Never saw you dis-connect old line coming in to carb. Stick on a clear filter to see if it is pulling "good" fuel. Also, try a stronger battery and check points.
Just a suggestion for you- with these engines sitting for so long you should change the oil and filter then pull out the distributor and prime the engine to make sure it has oil pressure for one and secondly to get oil flowing through the engine. I cringe when I see people trying to start these old engines without doing the above. You run the risk of screwing that engine in very short order from oil starvation. And unhook the fuel line so the fuel pump isn't sucking garbage to the carb.
u shouldn't try to start it with the old fuel line hooked up if there is old gas in tank ur fuel pump will pull it into ur carbartor and it probably has old gas gumming it up already
You did not gap the points on the high part of the lobe with a feeler gauge to specification for that engine. The information is easy to find on the internet.
Do not be discouraged, old cars like old motorcycles always run sooner or later unless there are really serious problems there are two options: either there is no gasoline or there is no electricity .... don't give up! 💪👍😎
Yes, I was berating the computer monitor, "You flooded it!" Go sit down, drink a half a cup of coffee, come back and disconnect the fuel line before you suck up some jello (probably too late!) and try again.
Yup, 307 is a pretty good motor. I really don't understand why people hate it so much. I rescued my 68 Chevelle wagon with a 307. Added pertronix distributor, dual exhaust plus open element air filter. She now purrs. Great Cruiser
You pull the 4 wires off one side and put them on the new cap. Then you have one side on the new cap and one side on the old cap. Then remove the old cap and install the new one. Then you can remove the 4 remaining wires from the old cap and install them one at a time on the new cap. Makes it easier than trying to finagle 8 wires onto the new cap with the old one in place! 😁
@@IowaClassicCars Ryan you still need to set the point gap, also known as dwell.... It affects timing. A tight gap will advance timing, a wide gap will retard timing. They will run, but not as good as when they're set correctly.
You dont need to completly remove the screws in the dist when changing the points just loosen them up till you can slide them out. Now you should never ever try and start any engine on old stale fuel. you unhook the fuel line at the carb and gravety feed the carb from a suspended tank. or use a gas can and a electric fuel pump. that varnish stale fuel is in the entire fuel systemeven in the fuelpump and the line between the fuel pump and the carb. If you would have made certain that the carb was getting fresh clean fuel the engine would have started and ran. now you most likely have filled the carb with crud and it will need cleaning. possibly the filter in the carb inlet has prevented the crappy fuel from entering the carb. Me I would have pulled the plugs and sprayed lubricant into the cyls and cranked over the plugless engine first. maybe changed the oil and filter.
GM A/C, ice cold coming from that war horse Frigidaire compressor. Love the sound of the secondaries of the quadrajet opening up on a 396 big block engine. I have that same cheap black and yellow screw driver set. I like the window that opens on the side of the distributer where you can adjust the points with an Allen wrench and using a dwell meter to measure the gap while the engine is running.
When you want to start these old carsHOLD THE CARB WIDE IOPEN TO CLEAR THE ENGINE...Dont keep pouring gas in as that will soak the plugs.....put some gas in if the butterfly is. Closed too tightly stick a screwdriver or something in to open it should not be closed tightly Again if it begins to start hold the pedal to the floor...good luck
I likes seeing him work the throttle a few times after dumping fuel down the carb. What is jacking the throttle open and closed a few times supposed to accomplish?
First car I had after moving to Iowa in 1973 was a 1968 Impala SS convertible with a 327 two barrel carb, buckets with staple shifter on console. Great driving car. Iowa Buick/Mopar guy.
Yeah, you also need to pump the accelerator many many times to get the gas where it needs to go also give the carb a few good taps to loosen the parts up inside especially when they have sat for such a long time. Keep up the good work 😁😁👍👍
My Late Grandfather Harold :) had Blue 1968 2 door with 396 V8 4BBL, with Turbo 400 3 speed Automatic transmission, 377 rear also lots options and sold in 1994 for $5.000 !
She's better off getting some attention now, 30 yrs is a long time for sitting, I dig when these old ladies get fixed and put back on the road, these old Chevies are slot more dependable than these cars of the future, can I get a hell yea? Who else agrees? I say f-plastic and keep rocking it all American metal,
Hi. I have a 1968 yellow Caprice fordor hardtop. The original motor was replaced with a 350 before I bought it. Look forward to see yours running. About the same car as mine. A lot of safety features happened in the 1968 model year. I can remember when they were new cars.
Did you check the fuel in the tank? Usually when they sit the fuel is no longer good. I'd take the carb apart have a carb rebuild kit, get a boat tank, if you can get an electric pump as well and then try running it with the boat tank fuel. But chances are that carburetor is gummed up preventing the car from firing off.
I've done the same thing when replacing the Cap for a new one there's nothing wrong with doing if that way. But I'm sure all the certified DIY mechanics on youtube will have a different opinion.
I commend you good sir!. Love to see another guy have fun and try to save the 4 doors!. Have a 68 Pontiac 4 door myself that i try to care for. I would Love a big block impala someday to. 2 or 4 door, doesn't matter. Cant wait to see more on them, hear what they sound like!. Keep it up!
So close Ryan, thought you’d have it. You are correct, needs a new starter, I’m sure that carb has a bunch of gunk in it not allowing gas to get metered in!
I like what you did electrically to provide spark to the engine. However, how do you know if the spark plugs are good if you don't pull them out, clean them and set the plug gap? After that many years the plugs may be bad, and might need replacing. I love the look of the '68 Chevy; we had a maroon 4-door Bel Air when I was in college. It had a small 6-cylinder engine (250 c.i.?) and a three-on-the-tree. I put spacers in the rear coils to lift up the back end and drove that car to college in my senior year. It was a good running car and I loved how it looked, even if the rear quarter panels were mostly body putty and black primer! My dad sold the car to my cousin, who years later drove it to the junk yard when the rear window fell into the back seat. Good memories!
Ryan, make sure your point gap is correct, as the gap affects timing... spark happens when the points open. After 25 years I bet that Quadrajet needs an overhaul.... don't replace it with new garbage, overhaul the one on the engine. I'd overhaul it for you, if you were closer. They're excellent carbs, the haters of them just don't know how to rebuild them correctly. Then run fresh gas to it. One other note.... I have seen several others receive bad condensers from Rock Auto.... put the old condenser back in to see if that resolves your problem. Also save your old starter, there super easy to rebuild, and are much better than the garbage made now days. I state that, because the new stuff's quality is poor at best..... They truly don't make them as good as they use too. Make sure the trans and axle have fluid in them and make sure the u-joints are not stuck before beating on it doing doughnuts. That's super hard on a car's drivetrain, especially one that was parked 25+ years.
@@IowaClassicCars It's really a unusual old car, can't wait to see it running. Give your old condenser a try.... I have seen several other tubers trying to start engines that sat years, only to find their "new" Rock Auto was condenser bad. They must have got a bad lot from their supplier. Might be worth a try......
A good friend of mine had a 69 4 dr, 427, completely loaded with all of the options, it had the hide away headlights too! I wonder if he still has it 🤔, 😒, of course that was back in 1979, or so...
Clean your fuel tank to make sure that you are not pumping rotten stale fuel into the Quadrajet.. Also make sure the the fuel pump is actually still good. Also change the fuel filter on the Quadrajet
@@IowaClassicCars Well then, you got lucky, Ryan. It's not that hard, but very important for proper engine performance. Do you want me to run you through it, or have you figured it out now?
Timing maybe thought I heard slight popping and points say preset on the box but most of the time they are not correct. And might want to pour gas into the vent tube and fill the bowl instead of down the throat looks like you were flooding it to me but I could be wrong of course just a little advice from and old grease monkey of the things I would have done if I were trying to start it myself! Great video I enjoy seeing these old cars I love messing with them just not as able as I used to be
It’s tough trying to get enough gas in the carburetor and crank it from inside the car. 396! Great engine. Hope the starter gets in soon. Can’t wait to see the big block fire and stay lit. Donuts in the field! Great stuff, Ryan. Big Al.
on most chevys there is a purple wire running from the starter. you can tap into that and touch it to the positive side of the battery and crank from under the hood. also a yelow wire from the starter that goes to the hot side of the coil. It gives a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking. It bypasses the ballast resistor or Resistance wire,
First you using a flat head screwdriver that bent, yes you replaced all the Sparky stuff LOL but you didn’t see if the carburetor is clogged stuck it looks pretty nasty if you’re getting fuel. Cars can’t run on spark alone
Didn’t see you gap the points. Point gap needs adjusted to spec. Should be approx .019. Adjust by bumping starter till rubbing block on point set is set on one of high spots of center shaft of distributor. Use feeler gauge .019 to adjust the gap.Just installing without setting gap likely is not opening and closing points .Prob is why it is not firing up
@@IowaClassicCars it's also best to have these old vehicles a little warm to get the oil flowing. A few minutes never hurt it (any more than it's been sitting for a long time) old oil is always better than no oil. The only time I'd change on it immediately if there is water in it. Usually the signs are there like milkshake oil and excessive oil levels.
@@IowaClassicCars its a big block chevy a valuable engine, Me I would have at least pulled the oil pan and made certain that it was clean and the screen on the pickup tube was not clogged. I bought a 67 T bird. with a 428 engine. It wasnt stuck. However it had been setting. I never tried to start it. Nope I pulled it out and tore it down to the short block. cleaned everything and put it back together with new gaskets before starting it. If a new filter and 5 quarts of oil are too high dollar you dont need to be messing with old cars anyhow.
@@IowaClassicCars yeah. Actually it was probably a pack rat. I had to get the starter rebuilt, new carburetor and new spark plug wires. I had it running in 2015 but it sat and now I can't get it running. Honestly I might just sale it because I don't have a shop and it's a project
I had 2 68 Impalas years ago , an SS Sport Coupe and a Station Wagon , both were 307 with Power Glide. Also to put in my 2 cents , to change points on a GM distributor just loosen the screws and slide out points .This helps to keep from dropping screws in distributor . I'm also glad you didn't use the unisets ( points and condenser in one) .They sometimes fail .
Maybe it was too much gas, maybe you flooded it. Sounded like it was going to start no prob at first. Maybe it will start right up after the plugs dry up.
You should also disconnect the fuel line to prevent the ancient gas from the tank entering the engine. Catch vids from vice grip garage, junkyard digs, dylan mccool,mortske garage to get advice in your adventures. Good luck
Rockauto and sorry maybe i misspoke. But i never have to adjust them. Ive done 10+ cars with points from them and all have fired right up without any adjustment
@@IowaClassicCars and then there is the 11th set of points that were not set quite right from the factory. And your whole day is ruined. Always check somebody else's work. Both on points and spark plugs.
My brother thought he would do donuts in a field with his 68 Torino coupe. Went around a couple of times and rolled it on it's top. It just had a 302. Totaled it. That 396 may look tired but it may give you a surprise like my brother had. Don't let your wild hair suck the brain out of your head.
@@IowaClassicCars You can use a business card to initially set point gap. Connect dwell angle meter, start engine, lift metal door in dist. cap, insert correct size allen wrench, set dwell while reading your meter. That's it.
Did you notice that the point set is slotted so that you don't have to remove the hold down screws, and there-fore risk losing them?
Good point lol no i never did
You do not have to take the tiny screws holding down the points all the way out when changing the points. That's is why the screw holes on the points are slotted.
Also to make it easier attach the condenser wire to the points before you put the points in, or buy the point/condenser set.
I always use a two stroke gas mix to start these old engines. That way the dry engine innards are lubed a little. Thanks for your vids. I always look forward to them.
Thanks for watching
I also do that I mix 1/2 pint 2 cycle oil to a gallon of gas. and gravety feed the carb from a lawnmower tank suspended from the raised hood. The cold war motors guys just woke up a zombie 61 buick. 364 Nailhead. they do a excellent job. the OP needs to watch those guys.
I do the same also.... it helps compression with a little oil in the gas, and lubes the rings, as the straight gas washes the oil away.
Never knew that. Thank you
I have a '65 Studebaker with a Chevy 283. When it sits for any length of time, I use a 2 stroke oil/gas mix as a prime,mixed in a plastic squeeze bottle.
Initial sounds of backfire, timing needs attention, carburetor is gummed up. But it did fire a bit, so please do not get discouraged. You have a strong contender that needs love.
Yup just have to get back on it!
@@IowaClassicCars could be cracked cap or rotten points. Best bet is new unisex points then a hei or pertronix swap
Never believe that points are pre set just like don't believe spark plugs are either, you can use a match book cover or a business card to get a close setting to get it to Fire and once you get it running, raise the distributor cap door to tune them. Or look up setting up points and how to adjust them and get a feeler gauge.
How about fuel? Never saw you dis-connect old line coming in to carb. Stick on a clear filter to see if it is pulling "good" fuel. Also, try a stronger battery and check points.
Points are not adjusted probably fried them, and never leave the key in the on position it will also fry them.
Just a suggestion for you- with these engines sitting for so long you should change the oil and filter then pull out the distributor and prime the engine to make sure it has oil pressure for one and secondly to get oil flowing through the engine. I cringe when I see people trying to start these old engines without doing the above. You run the risk of screwing that engine in very short order from oil starvation. And unhook the fuel line so the fuel pump isn't sucking garbage to the carb.
u shouldn't try to start it with the old fuel line hooked up if there is old gas in tank ur fuel pump will pull it into ur carbartor and it probably has old gas gumming it up already
Who said the lines were hooked up?
I could see that the line between the carb and fuel pump was still attached. there will be cruddy fuel in that line and the fuel pump.
@@IowaClassicCars ... your camera !
You did not gap the points on the high part of the lobe with a feeler gauge to specification for that engine. The information is easy to find on the internet.
The gap was the thickness of a matchbook cover, right, a great spark will be pink in color @ night!! Did anyone else ever see that?
@@normanhopfensperger4343 Yep
@@normanhopfensperger4343 yep me 2
Do not be discouraged, old cars like old motorcycles always run sooner or later unless there are really serious problems there are two options: either there is no gasoline or there is no electricity .... don't give up! 💪👍😎
Thanks man
May i suggest there at the end of the start attempts, you flooded it. Just barely.
It was so close though.
Yes, I was berating the computer monitor, "You flooded it!" Go sit down, drink a half a cup of coffee, come back and disconnect the fuel line before you suck up some jello (probably too late!) and try again.
@@williamhanson8004 gah
Jello and carburetors are ugly bedfellows, lol
My family had a 68 Belair when I was growing up in Pleasant Valley Iowa. Had that aqua color with a white top. Beautiful color.
Those 68's/ 4 doors have a great ride ,,mine had a 307 ,Good Highway car !
Yup good cruisers!
Yup, 307 is a pretty good motor. I really don't understand why people hate it so much. I rescued my 68 Chevelle wagon with a 307. Added pertronix distributor, dual exhaust plus open element air filter. She now purrs. Great Cruiser
@@davida1878 like the other 307 the olds its very durable but not very powerful.
@@jeffreyrigged late 80's olds?
@@davida1878 all early 80s bop rwd gm cars had the 307 olds. tough as nails engines but not very powerful.
You pull the 4 wires off one side and put them on the new cap. Then you have one side on the new cap and one side on the old cap. Then remove the old cap and install the new one. Then you can remove the 4 remaining wires from the old cap and install them one at a time on the new cap. Makes it easier than trying to finagle 8 wires onto the new cap with the old one in place! 😁
ah i like that way!
You mentioned that the points are " pre set." This makes no sense. Points are adjusted to the cam love on the distributor.
Well sorry, i guess i was mistaken. Ive bought 10+ sets of points from rockauto and all the cars always fired right up
@@IowaClassicCars Ryan you still need to set the point gap, also known as dwell.... It affects timing. A tight gap will advance timing, a wide gap will retard timing. They will run, but not as good as when they're set correctly.
You dont need to completly remove the screws in the dist when changing the points just loosen them up till you can slide them out. Now you should never ever try and start any engine on old stale fuel. you unhook the fuel line at the carb and gravety feed the carb from a suspended tank. or use a gas can and a electric fuel pump. that varnish stale fuel is in the entire fuel systemeven in the fuelpump and the line between the fuel pump and the carb. If you would have made certain that the carb was getting fresh clean fuel the engine would have started and ran. now you most likely have filled the carb with crud and it will need cleaning. possibly the filter in the carb inlet has prevented the crappy fuel from entering the carb. Me I would have pulled the plugs and sprayed lubricant into the cyls and cranked over the plugless engine first. maybe changed the oil and filter.
That was painfull watching you remove those points, you don't have to take the screw all the way out!!
Okay? Sorry lol i made it harder on myself than i needed to, no need to be upset over it 🤣
It was painful for me too, lol.
GM A/C, ice cold coming from that war horse Frigidaire compressor. Love the sound of the secondaries of the quadrajet opening up on a 396 big block engine. I have that same cheap black and yellow screw driver set. I like the window that opens on the side of the distributer where you can adjust the points with an Allen wrench and using a dwell meter to measure the gap while the engine is running.
Absolutely!
Disconnect the fuel line and run a tank
HELLO from Rockford, IL. Thank you for sharing. I am originally from Mason City, IA.
Hello!
Don’t give up Ryan. You’ll get it started.
Thanks Bob
Yes lot's of us noticed you did not gap the points, but this is a nice find and that's an easy fix.
yeah my bad, i guess i always thought they were pre-gapped as i have never had to set them before!
I had a 74 Impala. That car had a 350 and it rode like a dream. Of course it was a gas guzzling land yacht, but it was a good car.
They are big heavy land yachts lol
When you want to start these old carsHOLD THE CARB WIDE IOPEN TO CLEAR THE ENGINE...Dont keep pouring gas in as that will soak the plugs.....put some gas in if the butterfly is. Closed too tightly stick a screwdriver or something in to open it should not be closed tightly
Again if it begins to start hold the pedal to the floor...good luck
I likes seeing him work the throttle a few times after dumping fuel down the carb. What is jacking the throttle open and closed a few times supposed to accomplish?
Thanks for bringing us this
Thanks for watching man
Seems rare finding a big block car like this cool find
You have to set the dwell on the points 29 to 32 thousand point not pre set sorry
@@fmcgarrity1479 dwell is measured in degrees.
Good deal 👍always good to see an old motor turn
Thanks man 👌
Had a 65 impala super sport in my day but the frame broke on me.it was my 2nd car ever. Keep up the good videos look forward to them.
I just bought my '65 Impala SS back after 29 years without her.
First car I had after moving to Iowa in 1973 was a 1968 Impala SS convertible with a 327 two barrel carb, buckets with staple shifter on console. Great driving car. Iowa Buick/Mopar guy.
Nice!
Nice, swivel seats?
I love the Impalas. My first car was a 1969 custom coupe. It was a ten year old car at the time, and it cost me $300 of my hard earned money.
Good purchase!
How can they pre-gap the points? maybe the timing is also off...
That's my guess, too. Double check the points AND the timing.
I'm in Iowa too and have a 68 Impala. I'd like to see this car if possible. Being its so original I'd like to take a lot of pics for my restoration.
And you should always take the weights off, clean then and put new grease on very important.
Just a little FYI from my past experience... take a crowbar and tap the starter a few times. Works great on Cadillacs.
I tried it, its not stuck....the bearings inside the starter are just on their way out
Go figure, same as a Honda fuel pump going out! I'll be damned, nothing new here!
Moving spark plug wires this way is fine. Did it myself numerous times for the same reasons you mentioned.
Thanks for watching Howard
@@IowaClassicCars U- bet! I remember these cars when they were new!
Yeah, you also need to pump the accelerator many many times to get the gas where it needs to go also give the carb a few good taps to loosen the parts up inside especially when they have sat for such a long time. Keep up the good work 😁😁👍👍
thanks man!
Points are not self adjusting. You’ve gotta set the gap, and the dwell.
Thanks for showing the novice mechanics how to upgrade a car that has been setting for year’s.
Im a novice as well. Thanks for watching
@@IowaClassicCars unmolested cars of this era are great find. You got a bad carb cap coil and fuel
My first car was a 1968 Chevy BelAir 4 door sedan with a 307 and Powerglide.I would love to buy that car back if it still survives.
My Late Grandfather Harold :) had Blue 1968 2 door with 396 V8 4BBL, with Turbo 400 3 speed Automatic transmission, 377 rear also lots options and sold in 1994 for $5.000 !
In part two do a walk around. I hope this car has a future!!
I did a walkaround in the rescue vid! :)
Found it. Thanks
Everybody is a critic. You have to have thick skin to have a you tube channel. Love old cars. Enjoy your channel.
Youre absolutely right
Quit being negative. There's already that many to much in the world of idiots
Including you yourself. Don't include me in your opinions, your trash for doing that, haha
Including you yourself. Don't include me in your opinions, your trash for doing that, haha
Including you yourself. Don't include me in your opinions, your trash for doing that, haha
She's better off getting some attention now, 30 yrs is a long time for sitting, I dig when these old ladies get fixed and put back on the road, these old Chevies are slot more dependable than these cars of the future, can I get a hell yea? Who else agrees? I say f-plastic and keep rocking it all American metal,
Hi. I have a 1968 yellow Caprice fordor hardtop. The original motor was replaced with a 350 before I bought it. Look forward to see yours running. About the same car as mine. A lot of safety features happened in the 1968 model year. I can remember when they were new cars.
I sat in them in Sept 67 at new car intro uncle bought alot of trucks and we went each year from n59 to 73
cyl1 is on driver side closest to the radiator. #2 is passenger side closest to radiator. Hope that helps.
Did you check the fuel in the tank? Usually when they sit the fuel is no longer good. I'd take the carb apart have a carb rebuild kit, get a boat tank, if you can get an electric pump as well and then try running it with the boat tank fuel. But chances are that carburetor is gummed up preventing the car from firing off.
Yeah ive disconnected the fuel line
@@IowaClassicCars oh that's good. 👍
I've done the same thing when replacing the Cap for a new one there's nothing wrong with doing if that way. But I'm sure all the certified DIY mechanics on youtube will have a different opinion.
Lol yeahp
Wow....4 door Impala's up the wazoo!!
4 door lives matter!
@@IowaClassicCars Hahaha
I commend you good sir!. Love to see another guy have fun and try to save the 4 doors!. Have a 68 Pontiac 4 door myself that i try to care for. I would Love a big block impala someday to. 2 or 4 door, doesn't matter. Cant wait to see more on them, hear what they sound like!. Keep it up!
Thanks!
So close Ryan, thought you’d have it. You are correct, needs a new starter, I’m sure that carb has a bunch of gunk in it not allowing gas to get metered in!
Agreed, thanks for the comment
That's another hell of a good score way2go
Thanks Rick
I like what you did electrically to provide spark to the engine. However, how do you know if the spark plugs are good if you don't pull them out, clean them and set the plug gap? After that many years the plugs may be bad, and might need replacing. I love the look of the '68 Chevy; we had a maroon 4-door Bel Air when I was in college. It had a small 6-cylinder engine (250 c.i.?) and a three-on-the-tree. I put spacers in the rear coils to lift up the back end and drove that car to college in my senior year. It was a good running car and I loved how it looked, even if the rear quarter panels were mostly body putty and black primer! My dad sold the car to my cousin, who years later drove it to the junk yard when the rear window fell into the back seat. Good memories!
Did you change the plugs and hook up a clean fresh gas supply?
Ryan, make sure your point gap is correct, as the gap affects timing... spark happens when the points open. After 25 years I bet that Quadrajet needs an overhaul.... don't replace it with new garbage, overhaul the one on the engine. I'd overhaul it for you, if you were closer. They're excellent carbs, the haters of them just don't know how to rebuild them correctly. Then run fresh gas to it. One other note.... I have seen several others receive bad condensers from Rock Auto.... put the old condenser back in to see if that resolves your problem. Also save your old starter, there super easy to rebuild, and are much better than the garbage made now days. I state that, because the new stuff's quality is poor at best..... They truly don't make them as good as they use too. Make sure the trans and axle have fluid in them and make sure the u-joints are not stuck before beating on it doing doughnuts. That's super hard on a car's drivetrain, especially one that was parked 25+ years.
Thanks Howard! Working on it again later this week
@@IowaClassicCars It's really a unusual old car, can't wait to see it running. Give your old condenser a try.... I have seen several other tubers trying to start engines that sat years, only to find their "new" Rock Auto was condenser bad. They must have got a bad lot from their supplier. Might be worth a try......
A good friend of mine had a 69 4 dr, 427, completely loaded with all of the options, it had the hide away headlights too! I wonder if he still has it 🤔, 😒, of course that was back in 1979, or so...
16:10 it was pretty much ready to start. If you use a can of gas to the carb, and replace da starter it should work ok.
Soooo close!
Awesome job!
Thanks!
Next time try a blend of Marvel mystery oil and fuel; Pour into the bowl this will lubricate the upper cylinders which no doubt are bone dry!
Adjust the points and check the gaps on your spark plugs too
Clean your fuel tank to make sure that you are not pumping rotten stale fuel into the Quadrajet.. Also make sure the the fuel pump is actually still good. Also change the fuel filter on the Quadrajet
Might have to check compression... some valves could be stuck open! Or vary your timing a little to see what difference it makes!
Good thought!!
Carb rebuild, check plugs, timing ?
Where did you get the idea that the points are pre-set?
I guess ive never set them and they always ran right out of the box
@@IowaClassicCars Well then, you got lucky, Ryan. It's not that hard, but very important for proper engine performance. Do you want me to run you through it, or have you figured it out now?
Can't win them all, that's for sure. A new starter will def help!
Got one on order!
Awesome Ryan
You’ll get it..
is that a fuel injector?
Timing maybe thought I heard slight popping and points say preset on the box but most of the time they are not correct. And might want to pour gas into the vent tube and fill the bowl instead of down the throat looks like you were flooding it to me but I could be wrong of course just a little advice from and old grease monkey of the things I would have done if I were trying to start it myself! Great video I enjoy seeing these old cars I love messing with them just not as able as I used to be
Thanks Josh
I have a 66 impala ss points all my younger days i had to deal with points but I'm changing over to electronic dist.
Much easier to work on, thats for sure
Everything is probably bad. Especially the gas in the tank. Probably the tank. It’s just one thing after another. Way to stick with it.
Thanks man
It’s tough trying to get enough gas in the carburetor and crank it from inside the car. 396! Great engine. Hope the starter gets in soon. Can’t wait to see the big block fire and stay lit. Donuts in the field! Great stuff, Ryan. Big Al.
Thanks Al
on most chevys there is a purple wire running from the starter. you can tap into that and touch it to the positive side of the battery and crank from under the hood. also a yelow wire from the starter that goes to the hot side of the coil. It gives a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking. It bypasses the ballast resistor or Resistance wire,
First you using a flat head screwdriver that bent, yes you replaced all the Sparky stuff LOL but you didn’t see if the carburetor is clogged stuck it looks pretty nasty if you’re getting fuel. Cars can’t run on spark alone
I looked in it, it wasnt clogged or seized.
Didn’t see you gap the points. Point gap needs adjusted to spec. Should be approx .019. Adjust by bumping starter till rubbing block on point set is set on one of high spots of center shaft of distributor. Use feeler gauge .019 to adjust the gap.Just installing without setting gap likely is not opening and closing points .Prob is why it is not firing up
Why didnt you change the oil and filter ?
Why waste time and momey on that if it wont run? I usually hear them run, then change the oil
@@IowaClassicCars If they turn over by hand, they most of the time will run with a few new servicing parts replaced.
@@IowaClassicCars it's also best to have these old vehicles a little warm to get the oil flowing. A few minutes never hurt it (any more than it's been sitting for a long time) old oil is always better than no oil.
The only time I'd change on it immediately if there is water in it. Usually the signs are there like milkshake oil and excessive oil levels.
@@IowaClassicCars its a big block chevy a valuable engine, Me I would have at least pulled the oil pan and made certain that it was clean and the screen on the pickup tube was not clogged. I bought a 67 T bird. with a 428 engine. It wasnt stuck. However it had been setting. I never tried to start it. Nope I pulled it out and tore it down to the short block. cleaned everything and put it back together with new gaskets before starting it. If a new filter and 5 quarts of oil are too high dollar you dont need to be messing with old cars anyhow.
I have a 400 small block. I can not get it running. hopefully this helps. I think mice got to the weirs
Mice ruin everything they touch!
@@IowaClassicCars yeah. Actually it was probably a pack rat. I had to get the starter rebuilt, new carburetor and new spark plug wires. I had it running in 2015 but it sat and now I can't get it running. Honestly I might just sale it because I don't have a shop and it's a project
I've heard of these things called magnetic tip screwdrivers.
May I suggest a much more powerful battery like a deep cycle or diesel battery
yep i have learned a lot since this video was made lol
What's the car sitting beside it?
Ryan what are your plans for this car?
Its gone. Traded it for 2 engines and a 62 impala
How do I get in touch with you to purchase
Email iowaclassiccars@gmail.com, car is sold though
I had 2 68 Impalas years ago , an SS Sport Coupe and a Station Wagon , both were 307 with Power Glide. Also to put in my 2 cents , to change points on a GM distributor just loosen the screws and slide out points .This helps to keep from dropping screws in distributor . I'm also glad you didn't use the unisets ( points and condenser in one) .They sometimes fail .
Maybe it was too much gas, maybe you flooded it. Sounded like it was going to start no prob at first. Maybe it will start right up after the plugs dry up.
Hmmm that could be it! Good idea!
You should also disconnect the fuel line to prevent the ancient gas from the tank entering the engine. Catch vids from vice grip garage, junkyard digs, dylan mccool,mortske garage to get advice in your adventures. Good luck
You flooded it!! That’s why it didn’t start!! Once it tried to run you should have kept turning it over and I promise you it would have ran
Big blocks rock
Try setting the gap on the points
Did you say that the points were preset at the factory, what factory are you getting them from?🤣😂😅
Rockauto and sorry maybe i misspoke. But i never have to adjust them. Ive done 10+ cars with points from them and all have fired right up without any adjustment
@@IowaClassicCars and then there is the 11th set of points that were not set quite right from the factory. And your whole day is ruined. Always check somebody else's work. Both on points and spark plugs.
For one u use a uniset points and u don't remove the screws. Just loosen up. And slide them out. Do away with the cond.
Timing got ya. Do the timing again. She'll run.
Next week im plannimg on it!
points and condenser come as one piece should have used them much easier
I have the same but 69 396.
My brother thought he would do donuts in a field with his 68 Torino coupe. Went around a couple of times and rolled it on it's top. It just had a 302. Totaled it. That 396 may look tired but it may give you a surprise like my brother had. Don't let your wild hair suck the brain out of your head.
Lol never heard that expression before
Is this car for sale?
Its gone sry man
Well if you happen to run into another one give me a holler 👍
Motor is worth more than the car
Yup youre right
@@IowaClassicCars it have a turbohydro 400 in it????
400 was std. on catalina.
You can save the old distributor and use it as a pencil/pen holder!
Thats an idea!
Why did they put the lights in the bumper, what a stupid idea.
You do have to gap the points. I've never heard of pregaped ones.
Ive done about 10 cars with new points from rockauto, never had an issue with them!
So i guess i never really thought to do it lol
Your just lucky they ran without the gap done to specification. It does make a differance how they start and run. LOL
@@IowaClassicCars You can use a business card to initially set point gap. Connect dwell angle meter, start engine, lift metal door in dist. cap, insert correct size allen wrench, set dwell while reading your meter. That's it.
fill up the carb bowl
Fuel tank , lines , carburetor and fuel pump are full of stale fuel and rust .