故宮博物院線上策展人(入選)清宮美甲術:指甲套的階級美感~策展人梁庭嘉NationalPalaceMuseumCuration(Selected)China Qing Dynasty Nail Art
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- Опубликовано: 23 сен 2020
- 故宮博物院線上策展人(入選)清宮美甲術:指甲套的階級美感~策展人梁庭嘉
National Palace Museum Curation (Selected)China Qing Dynasty Nail Art
#慈禧 #護指 #紫禁城
National Palace Museum Online Curator Project (Selected): China Qing Dynasty Royal Nail Art: Aristocratic Aesthetics of Fingernail Guards ~ Curator: Tingjia Liang
清代指甲套除了功能性、裝飾性, 還具有階級性, 強烈暗示“佩戴者不需勞動”的訊息, 這是一般飾品無法精準傳遞的信號。與其說指甲套保護的是指甲, 不如說是階級; 展示的不只是工藝, 而是身份。而慈禧蓄甲的意義又超越了一般貴族, 不僅為了保護指甲、賞心悅目、炫耀階級, 也與掌握最高權力有感性聯繫。
In addition to function, decoration, Fingernail Guards were aristocratic and implied that the wearers were no need to work. It was a message that ordinary jewelry couldn't accurately communicate. Fingernail Guard protected not only nails but aristocracy; it showed off not only craftsmanship but wearer’s status. However, the significance of Empress Dowager Cixi's wearing fingernail guards surpassed ordinary nobles. It was not merely for protecting nails, decoration, and showing off, it also had an emotional connection with her highest political power.
2020 國立故宮博物院(台北故宮)線上策展人計畫～入選 Welcome to the curation webpage @ National Palace Museum Online Curator Project (Selected) theme.npm.edu.tw/curation/pre...
*English subtitles are available. (Touch "cc" to get it.)
字幕：
蓄甲之風自古有之 ,到了清朝更勝以往。 為了保護長長的指甲,旗人以琴撥為原型, 將外形延伸成為弓形管狀並添加裝飾性,最後蛻變成清代飾品。
[傳統手指之美:長白尖細]
[吉林榆樹大坡老河深漢代古墓 金護指]
[古老琴撥蛻變為清代飾品]
指甲套除了功能性、裝飾性,還具有階級性。
[暗示:身份階級不需勞動]
[保護的不只是指甲而是階級]
[展示的不只是工藝而是身份]
[美甲皇太后 慈禧]
根據女官德齡與宮女何榮兒的回憶,慈禧對於保養抗老特別上心,對養顏美容的癡迷,一路延伸到手上的指甲,女官宮女每天早晚為她洗手護甲。
[慈禧美甲 SOP. {夜晚} 泡銼刷塗抹戴. {白天} 泡抹拍吸戴]
[御用美甲團隊]
[外國進貢美甲工具組]
[{耐冬花露}蒸餾法]
[清宮自製保養品化妝品]
[慈禧蓄甲情結]
慈禧蓄甲的意義又超越了一般貴族,不只為了賞心悅目、保護指甲、炫耀階級,也與掌握最高權力有感性聯繫。
[1900.08.15庚子出逃 毅然斷甲]
[1902.01.08辛丑回鑾 恢復蓄甲]
然後重新戴上指甲套，每天早晚浸泡指甲一如既往。回鑾後的慈禧又是坐鎮紫禁城的皇太后了，保護指甲與保住皇位是每天必做的事。
Subtitles:
Qing Dynasty Royal Nail Art: Aristocratic Aesthetic of Fingernail Guards. Ancient Chinese used to keep nails long and it was even more popular in the Qing Dynasty.
To protect long fingernails, Qing dynasty people took the ancient zither plectrum as the prototype, extended the shape into an arch tube and add decoration, finally transformed to be Qing Dynasty jewelry.
In addition to function and decoration, fingernail Guards were aristocratic.
[Golden Fingernail Guards: Discovered at Ancient Tombs of Han Dynasty (202 BC~220 AD) in Jilin province, China]
[Ancient zither plectrum transformed to be Qing Dynasty jewelry]
[Hint Message: Wearers were no need to work]
[Fingernail Guards protected not only fingernails but aristocracy.]
[They showed off not only craftsmanship but wearer’s identity.]
[Royal nail art team: Western country tribute nail art kits / Camellia essence distillation tool/ Royal handmade skin care products and cosmetics]
[Nail Art Empress Dowager CIXI.]
According to the memories of the female officer De Ling and the court maid He Ronger,
CIXI particularly concerned about maintaining anti-aging.
Obsession with beauty of face, skin and even her fingernails.
Female officers and court maids washed and maintained CIXI’s fingernails every morning and evening.
However, Empress Dowager CIXI was other than ordinary nobles.
Wearing Fingernail Guards was not only for protecting nails, decoration and showing off class,
it also has an emotional connection with highest political power.
[CIXI Nail Art SOP: {Night} soak, trim, brush, polish, wipe, wear. {Daytime} soak, wipe, pat, soak, wear]
[CIXI’s Complex of long fingernails.]
[Resolutely cutting off long fingernails before fleeing from Forbidden City in The Boxer Incident,1900]
[Restart keeping fingernails grow after returning to the Forbidden City in January,1902]
[Resolutely cutting off long fingernails before fleeing from Forbidden City in The Boxer Incident,1900]
[Restart keeping fingernails grow after returning to the Forbidden City in January,1902]
Then put on the Fingernail Guards again, and soaked fingernails every morning and night as before.
Cixi was the Empress Dowager of the Forbidden City again.
Maintaining fingernails and protecting the throne were two important must-do every day.
*文獻參考 References & Sources:
.《雍親王題書堂深居圖屏》
.《玫貴妃春貴人行樂圖》
.《御香縹緲錄》Imperial Incense , 德齡, 1933
.《清宮二年記》(1949）; Two Years in the Forbidden City(1911) , 德齡
.《宮女談往錄》金易/沈義翎 , 1988
.《美國女畫師的清宮回憶》(2009) ; With the Empress Dowager Of China (1905)by Katharine Carl.
. 慈禧 Empress Dowager CIXI (1835-1908)
. 女官 Female officer 裕德齡 (1885-1944)
. 宮女 Court maid 何容兒（? -1950s)
. 慈禧畫像 CIXI Painting by Katharine Carl (1865-1938) , 1904-1905
. 慈禧畫像 CIXI Painting by Hubert Vos (1855-1935), 1905
. 慈禧照相 CIXI Photograph by 裕勛齡(裕德齡二哥), 1904-1905
. 國立故宮博物院 National Palace Museum (Taipei, Taiwan) Open Data
Thanks for putting subtitles! Beautiful video!
I LOVE NAIL GUARDS so much so I bought some and wear them whenever I'm at home, they are a whole vibe
They are nice nail guards from Qing Dynasty! I love the history and Hanfu costumes back in the Tang, Song, and Ming Dynasty, which are considered as the most prosperous time, both literarily and geographically. And all the beautiful words of poems come from Tang and Song Dynasty. There are various Hanfu styles from different dynasties like Tang, Song and Ming Dynasty.❤️
i think the longer the nail guard, the higher your status, right??
Yes, but also more jewels, also if a woman had birthed a son she would get gold things including fingernail guards, but only silver for a daughter.
I noticed it in some imperial dramas. It's pretty and I think it gives a vibe of elegancy too. Thanks for making this review
thanks for posting! i was pretty fascinated with these nail guards when I was watching Chinese Drama, at least now i understand that it is connected to status.
畫師下的慈禧太后根本是開濾鏡後的版本，美肌又美瞳
你这个比喻很形象哈哈哈
其實從晚年慈禧的黑白照來看，她的眼睛真的很大欸
畢竟沒有假睫毛之類的放大眼睛的神器
Very beautiful…. The hands always look so pretty like this
i been to china museum its very beautiful from all dynasty they have many ..wow.. reserved the history is best
It would be wonderful if the museum could put open English transcript. If so, we can watch the translated text. I own 2 different nailguards, and I like to know more.
I did translate it before you left message. You may as well touch the (cc) to get the English subtitles.thank you.
@@tingjia_liang excuse me, i did not see it. thanks.
I can see it tho. Maybe you should check it again
@@ameliachen7011 yes, I can see it now
Yes that would be wonderful! ❤️ glad they put that.
I wish that nail guards are still exists in this modern era so I can prevent my nails from breaking..
I would wear them they are beautiful
超美
Whe can say that the nails guard are the great grandpa of the fake nails i guess
What a beautiful and we'll researched video🥰 I love it.
It’s gorgeous
ill like the words in English BUT love the video
English subtitles are available.
@@evangeline77x just found out but thanks anyways
I thought it was a weapon...a beautiful modified weapon that goes along with any dress just like a handbag or stilletos would....
Don't think it's affective as a weapon though.
beautiful ❤️
It's make women look classy n elegant
I’ve always loved them. Wondering if I could buy some nail guard anywhere
Nhạc nghe ghê quá má ưi😱😱😱😱😱
Изящные футлярчики для ногтей. Думаю для многих они были фетишем :)
今年也是辛丑年了 omg
Take that nail extensions!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Why they wear the nail guard on the last two fingers? The ring and pinky finger..is there a meaning to this..please explain..I'm just curious?
At least, those aristocrat had to drink & eat with front three fingers by themselves.
Yes I have been watching a drama and I wanted to know what exactly were these and y women wore them....did the size matter...
Baba Gama The longer the nail guards most likely means that they have been wealthy and aristocratic for a long time. I think people with longer nail guards got more respect from people with shorter nail guards.
@@chxrryuwu8866 I c....and what about wearing them only on last two fingers???? thanks agn for answering..
@@babagama4232 well i guess probably they still need the other 3 fingers to do minor task.
The longer the nail guards, the higher the status I’m assuming. I think lesser concubines had shorter nail guards.
Is it true that they wore it to hide their hideous finger shape after chopped it off?
還是現代美甲比較好看，還可以常常換造型，感覺古代有錢女人肌耐力都不足
他們一個甲套夠你做幾年的美甲了
重要的是『身分的象徵』
The emperor's hougong - I have no idea about their beauty. Perhaps they were chosen by their family honor.
請問背景古琴曲子是什麼 👍🏻
我記得是在一個簡體字網站的無版權(免費)音樂音效庫挖出來的一首無題古琴曲
Parece que los chinos de antes eran muy morenos apesar de ser ricos
speechless
Có ai Việt Nam không ? 😊
I want to know more about this ítems
They are nice nail guards from Qing Dynasty! I love the history and Hanfu costumes back in the Tang, Song, and Ming Dynasty, which are considered as the most prosperous time, both literarily and geographically. And all the beautiful words of poems come from Tang and Song Dynasty. There are various Hanfu styles from different dynasties like Tang, Song and Ming Dynasty.❤️
@@gloriataro3509 yes Unknow how they are call but unfortunolately i haven't found mucho information about them like how they where build, from what year and more. Thank You for the information, I love China's fashin history i think that hanfus are really beautifull more than Qi Pao. But are si many typesnof hanfus that is amazing make a full study of them. And making My own research work about it. I hope i can continue learnlng here and if You have some more information just ley me know please. Best regards is great to know a person who Also loved China's antient fashion history. :)
In addition to the high-class women who have worn Can men wear it? I'm just curious, because I've seen some Chinese men in the past also grow long nails, some grow long nails as they age.
In any text and image references I can reach, so far I've never discovered ancient Chinese men wore Fingernail Guards. Yes, I did find men keep fingernail long according to some ancient Chinese brush paintings.
@@tingjia_liang And nail accessories like this, if a man thinks to wear it, is that wrong? Or, really, anyone can wear it regardless of gender or not.
@@urielzhang5251 19th century might not be an era which anyone could do anything he/she wanted.
@@tingjia_liang Maybe yes
好像穿山甲的爪子，不知好看在哪里。清朝时期的审美观真是与众不同啊。
看你像穿山甲，凡夫俗子怎能理解？
每個時代審美觀也不同啊，以後的人再看回我們現在說不定就很奇怪
@xinru ye 指甲套不是清朝才出现的
@@chinpoon1377 有些人学了个蛮夷要高潮了，事实上清廷大部分都是学的汉族的东西
English sub pls.
You may touch the "cc" on the screen to get the English subtitles.Thank you.
@@tingjia_liang thanks.
@@tingjia_liang It probably means that in ancient women, if they had finger cots on their nails, it represented a lofty status and status. Wearing finger cots is because the nails are very long, and we know that people with long nails cannot do rough work and labor. It also means that they do not need labor and have a high status. The finger cots also have many design styles and gorgeous jewels inlaid in them. Most of the pictures are of Empress Dowager Cixi. Every day she asks the maid to do her nail SPA, which is basically a modern manicure (I am not good in English, I use Google translation) and I translate it in general.
天啊，2‘50这个好像纪梵希logo
是有點
差那麼多
以前的女人真無聊, 最高的階級就是不幹事. 這麼長的指甲什麼事也幹不好. 也沒有嗜好, 沒有長處, 天天晃悠找茶鬥別人.
怪不得李白云以色侍人能得几時好.
以前的女人指甲越長身份地位就越高，當年慈禧太后被追殺，因為指甲太長不方便逃命，下很大的決心才把她養了多年的指甲剪掉，聽説為了這事她還哭了一場大的。所以啊！地位高的人不都是有一推人伺候嘛，很正常！難道要讓哪些皇後，貴妃留著這麼長的指甲做家務嗎？不可能吧！
你看看红楼梦,人家不劳动不等于不读书,不玩琴棋书画
這配樂好像看鬼片😑
那你是不懂古琴的美了
古琴聲還要時斷時續，這樣的音效剪接好恐怖⋯
@@jobajo7418 真的
@@jobajo7418 我沒剪接 這首古琴本來就是這樣
本来就是鬼片，视频里那些人有几个还活着？
難怪殭屍片都長指甲
那是他在變殭屍時，在棺材裡都沒得剪吧
Cái nhạc ghê púa
At 1:43 for the daytime routine, I that a typo? "Suck"?
wow! I made a big mistake. thanks a lot.
@@tingjia_liang 😅😅 ok I figured so
我就想知道上廁所的時候怎麼辦?🤣🤣不會卡到嗎？裝飾好看但太不方便了
有专门的侍女擦的
她們不需要自己上廁所
@@user-xw1cy9rr7c 😂😂😂😂😂
@@user-xw1cy9rr7c 笑死我了哈哈哈哈！！
那個可以用刮的
Por favor subtitulos en español
Hi, the whole English subtitles are following, you may use Google Translate to read in Spanish. Thanks a lot.
Qing Dynasty Royal Nail Art: Aristocratic Aesthetic of Fingernail Guards.
Ancient Chinese used to keep nails long and it was even more popular in the Qing Dynasty. To protect long fingernails, Qing dynasty people took the ancient zither plectrum as the prototype, extended the shape into an arch tube and add decoration, finally transformed to be Qing Dynasty jewelry. In addition to function and decoration, fingernail Guards were aristocratic.
[Golden Fingernail Guards: Discovered at Ancient Tombs of Han Dynasty (202 BC~220 AD) in Jilin province, China]
[Ancient zither plectrum transformed to be Qing Dynasty jewelry]
[Hint Message: Wearers were no need to work]
[Fingernail Guards protected not only fingernails but aristocracy; they showed off not only craftsmanship but wearer’s identity.]
[Royal nail art team: Western country tribute nail art kits / Camellia essence distillation tool/ Royal handmade skin care products and cosmetics]
Nail Art Empress Dowager CIXI.
According to the memories of the female officer De Ling and the court amid He Ronger, CIXI particularly concerned about maintaining anti-aging. Obsession with beauty of face, skin and even her fingernails. Female officers and court maids washed and maintained CIXI’s fingernails every morning and evening. However, Empress Dowager CIXI was other than ordinary nobles. Wearing Fingernail Guards was not only for protecting nails, decoration and showing off class, It also has an emotional connection with highest political power.
[CIXI Nail Art SOP: {Night} soak, trim, brush, polish, wipe, wear. {Daytime} soak, wipe, pat, suck, wear]
[CIXI’s Complex of long fingernails.]
[Resolutely cutting off long fingernails before fleeing from Forbitten City in The Boxer Incident,1900]
[Restart keeping fingernails grow after returning to the Forbidden City in January,1902]
跟飽暖思淫慾的道理一樣，因為有錢有閒，日子無聊得慌，就找點花樣行炫富之實，而且貴婦之間吵起架來還可以當武器~
戴這個呼巴掌臉一定劃傷
I want to wear fingernail guards.
Would love to buy some of these. Where. In South Africa.?
Replicas may be available at museum shops in Taiwan or China.
There are some in France second hand markets
I found some replicas as following.
amzn.to/32HnIYy
amzn.to/2QpaAF4
amzn.to/32EI7xr
amzn.to/3sJODNW
amzn.to/3vqaBHR
mình đam mê hộ giáp cực í, nhưng có điều tiếng đàn nghe có phần đáng sợ..
這個指甲套是怎麼來的
國立故宮博物院 open data 專區
造辦處做的啊
They try
Did the women who wore these show their status by wearing these?
that's right.
I believe they were only allowed to be worn by the empress and her sister wives....(the consorts...concubines)
Yes the nail guards show their status
English subtitles please
You may touch the "cc" to get it. Thanks.
指甲長太長不會斷裂喔...
所以才會有指套呀！再說『身分的不同』幹嘛要勞動，穿衣吃飯都有人服侍，在那時代出錯了輕則處罰，何況是被斷指甲
Hello
Those nails are mighty dangerous just imagine what they use those nails besides decoration probably had poison in them and everything else to hurt each other it was a very dangerous time back then I can imagine
音樂不行
音樂大大破壞了影片
Could You please put English subtitles?
my pleasure. working in process. thanks a lot.
@@tingjia_liang thanks a lot to You :) for thanking carne of My comments and Also for share part of your culture. I like it a Lot and want yo learn as much as I can of it
@@IGUniverse done. hope that you love it. thank you.
@@tingjia_liang thank You very much i do love it. Learn si much of ir I hoy Even more interested than before. Is not común find information about qing dinasty ítems in English or spanish (My mother tongue) i'm a amateur historian and i'm cosntantly researching and trying to put together as much information as I can for My blog on spanish so Many others cam find this kind of information. My favorite fiel is asían history and their fashion history as well. I found your content really great and I have to thank You for that. Great job and really thank You for the subtitles.
剪指甲唔好咩😑
不能挖鼻孔太難過了
音樂聽得太太太不舒服了
慈禧長得好可怕
爪を保護する為の道具は分かるけど何故爪を伸ばすの？邪魔なのに
あんまり自分の手ですることがないからです。使用人や奴隷と区別するようにするわけだ、手を見れば身分がわかる的な
这手保养半天也不好看啊
一點美感都沒有，真看不出美在那裏？
我不喜欢长指甲，但是这个装饰的很，很美啊
手工金絲珍珠寶石
是你審美不行吧
每人的審美標準不同，我只代表我自己。
新做的时候应该很美的。可能古董看起来脏脏的。只看护甲本身还算漂亮。带上去看起来有点可怕
I really can’t stand those claws Chinese women wore. They must have been dangerous when they got angry.
这是想kill皇上吗？😰
哈哈哈
美麗畫面欣賞不全，斗大的英文題字，擋著可惜了！
按著畫面 會出現（cc）字樣 輕觸它就可以去除字幕
哈哈哈哈哈哈哈
觉得很恶心，很不卫生。 而且无所事事， 什么活都不干的废物才能留这么长的指甲， 这些留着长指甲女人真的很丑陋
以前人本来就没有什么卫生观念，所以就不要太期待了他们懂什么叫卫生了
怎麼?羨慕貴族嗎?
慈禧好噁