First Look at Voxelab Aquila S2 3D Printer
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024
- The Voxelab Aquila S2 3D Printer is an Ender 3 V2 Clone with a High Temperature, Direct Drive Extrusion setup. This allows you to print Carbon Fiber, Nylon, and other high-temperature filaments yet still print your standard PLA and PETG. Chuck gives you a first look at this new Ender 3 Style machine with an additional PEI Metal Flexible bed. At $279, is this a great entry-level printer?
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You're an enabler Chep. I just got started with my first machine a few days ago, and now I want to buy this machine. Carbon fiber sounds amazing!!!
it's a gimmick. fibers are aligned with the layers, so they add no real strength
@@natalieisagirlnow That's interesting.
I wonder why it adds strength to nylon then.
Nylon by itself is soft but carbon fiber nylon they're using to make firearms with.
Your thoughts?
@@dangerous8333 not in layers. in an injection mold, yes
That PAHT looks very interesting, I have been using my printer to make molds, to overmold mil-spec connectors, I started with PLA, and that worked well, but the molding compound requires heat to cure, at room temperature it can take days, at around 45C I can demold around 4-6 hours. but even at 45C PLA molds will start to warp after 3-4 uses. I have switched to ABS, I have not put them through more than 2 cycles yet so the verdict is out on that.
but something like that 260C PAHT might be the ticket, at 80C my urathane molding compound will be ready to demold in 1 hour, so I wonder how well these would hold up after 4-5 cycles at 70-80 C
It's worth noting they charge $105 for shipping this printer to the US, and are asking $299 for the N32 board version. So it's actually a $394 printer, not $279. And at that price the Ender 3 S1 seems like a much more compelling option - dual z-axis drive, CR touch installed, comes almost fully assembled, all in at $399. It doesn't have an all metal hot end, but a $35 Copperhead heat brake would fix that much cheaper and with less fuss than it would take to upgrade this printer to the level of the Ender S1.
Just ordered mine on sale. My 3rd with an Aquila and Ender 3 Pro. A solid video thanks as always CHEP
How much was it? 260?
@@po5tup568 in CAD I think $260. Great printer overall. Works out of the box within minutes of assembly. Didn't get some high temp filaments as samples. Red PLA with it though
Thanks Chep and Happy New Year!
have a good new year chep
Thanks Paul
I love my Voxelab Aquila. I’m sure I’ll be scooping up this s2 version one day soon. Might wait for it to go on sale though.
This is a game changer. Those specs at that price really allows the average Joe to explore higher performing filaments.
looking forward to seeing your follow up video 😊.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂
Pretty interesting printer indeed, Chuck! Thanks for the review! 😃
I'm going to keep an eye for this one!
Happy new year! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Pretty excited for this machine. Seems like a step forward for the brand. You got lucky with the N32. Looking forward to seeing which one I got. 😂
I bet I know which one you DON"T want.. LOL
I requested the N32 specifically. More are coming in January per Voxelab.
I got the n32 what's the difference?
3rd party firmware is available for N32 not H32.
Thank you Chuck for taking the time to show us this printer. It looks like an awesome deal no doubt about it. But, no dual z axis? Amazing how companies seem to always stop short of completion. And then there's the fact they lack the skill pool to get their own firmware right. That does not inspire confidence. What I am holding out for has the features of a prusa i3 mk3s+ with 32 bit mother board, wi-fi, touch screen user interface and large build area (300x300?) at a price I can live with myself for. It's a tall order I know. That's why I'm still using my old ender 3pro with the upgrades I've done on it I print cf PC and nylon very nicely, just have some doubts how long it will hold up. But, so far so good. Just want you to know how much I love your channel and the way you do your videos. God bless you and yours with a happy and healthy new year.
Thanks. Prusa announced the XL at 300x300 but it close to $2k.
Lots of great additions on this one, it looks like a very capable machine for the price!
It looks like a good machine but I don't know if It can be trusted I know I can trust my 3 Ender 3 systems as it is a proven system but can this machine be trusted with the firmware issues it has had and have they been corrected till that can be answered I will stick with the Ender 3
This honestly sounds like a better upgrade than the Ender 3 S1. For the price you get everything I want except ABL. I'll take that over a $400+ S1 any day.
Not me...
@@dangerous8333 that's the great thing about freedom and self determination; you get to choose what works best for you and your needs. 👍
@@MakerMeraki Yep! 👍
Dual-z, ABL and firmware like Jyers is more important to me than the high heat hotend on this that will eventually be replaced with a high temp one on the S1 as well.
To me this is just an E3V2 with a high temperature hot end.
At $399 for S1 you are spending a lot to then have to add a new hotend.
@@dangerous8333 I added ABL, dual Z, high heat all metal hotend, and direct drive to my 3 V2s for far less than the $443 the S1 is going for on Amazon today or the $429 direct from Creality with a 2-3 week lead time.
Don't get me wrong, I like the S1, but I'll wait until it goes in sale to add one to my farm.
As for Jyers, I've tried it twice and both times were extremely buggy. The last time was the nozzle would reach 190C and then it would throw a heating failed error requiring a restart. Flash it back to Creality stock: No problems. TH3D unified: no problems. Flashed back to Jyers, same problem.
Good video. I am somewhat new to 3d printing. I use Cura. However I don't think I'm utilizing profiles in the best way. I'm a little confused on how to use them for different materials. I would really like to see an in depth video on setting up and using profiles. That is unless you already have one that I have over looked. Thanks. 😊
Looks like an interesting reaction to the Ender 3 S1.
S1 hotend isn’t any different than Ender 3.
@@FilamentFriday I see, but I think the direct drive is more important than the high temps for most people. I guess Barak's impression is correct!
Maybe. $399 vs $279 is quite a big difference.
I just bought two voxelab aquila printers. They are both Amazon returns with some damage. I've got $100 in both. Looking forward to working on them! Very similar to ender 3 upon first glance. I'd never heard of this company but figured it was worth the money in extra parts. One is missing hot end and the other the glass. Anyway, no biggie, hopefully have them both going soon. Great video! Happy new year Chuck!
They are a division of FlashForge. ruclips.net/video/bgY8vwv3gQA/видео.html
Sounds like some nice upgrades for the price.
Hey Chep, one question if you know, as i've asked everywhere and searched everywhere with no proper answer as i'm pretty dense in the matter of firmwares and knowin what is supported and isn't:
I have a skr 1.3 with a buggy branch of marlin
(it misbehaves when ejecting sd or printing the same print right after the last print and have to reboot the printer every time),
and so i downloaded the latest branch, but the default configs for say ender 3 pro which has the printing surface dimensions and the basic configs i need, but it seems to only have profiles for skr mini or skr 1.4. Do i just select the 1.4 and config what i have for the rest? Or what do i do here? As all the tutorials i've found is either for skr 1.3 from 1-2 years ago, or for skr 1.4 of recent last year.
Doesn’t the board supplier have firmware for it?
I don’t know the difference between 1.3 and 1.4
Printed at 0.04mm layer height. Forgot to add that.
Finally, a cheap printer that doesn't have those crappy ptfe heatbreaks. I always replace those annoying things with a genuine titanium heatbreak
CHEP, did you check the PTFE tube in the heatbreak!?
Excellent and honest review. I wouldn't buy the printer though. I am not sure how much the metal heat break hotend costs but i converted my ender 3 to direct drive for free using the existing original components and a 3d printed adapter. It has been more than a year and it is printing pla, abrasive pla, tpu, petg reliably. $280 for this printer is asking much when you can buy an ender 3 for $200 and converting it to direct drive. I bet you could buy a pretty nice hotend with the $80 you save!
I guess this printer are for those people who don't want to bother with the effort and that's fine.
Do you have silent drivers, belt adjusters, PEI flexible bed, full graphic display?
You get all that plus an all metal direct drive hot end for the $80.
@@FilamentFriday Well I guess I missed that! Thanks for mentioning it. Maybe some people don't care about those extra features so I think my comment might still help some people.
I upgraded my plain Ender 3 with the Micro-Swiss direct drive adapter and all metal hot end (which together cost more than this Aquila, never mind my other upgrades) and I have to say both things are great. The ability to safely print above 235-240˚C is nice, but better yet is the reduced maintenance related to the hot end. Even with Luke Hatfield's hot end fix to help simplify things, I felt I was spending a lot of time on routine maintenance - dismantling the hot end, checking the PTFE tube, replacing the burned end and having to clean up the heater block if I let it go too long and got a leak.
The all metal hot end is far simpler...aside from one time where I needed to bust out the heat gun to deal with a clog caused by heat creep (itself caused by printing a little too slowly for a special application), it's been super easy to operate and maintain.
Justin Chamberlin - I agree but I prefer the Skice Engineering heat break. ruclips.net/video/tYbL-O3FecY/видео.html
Excuse me sir I,m 17 years old and new to 3d printing so I bought this printer 2 weeks ago (the same aquila s2) the first test print came out well but since then i've being getting a problem with the adhesion to the build plate and I dont know what to do, I'm currently printing with standar PLA and everytime I print the first layer gives me trouble or if not so after a few hours of printing the print starts to get of the bed. I',ve tried tuning the temperature, leveling the bed, using glue stick, but nothing seems to work. could you please check into this issue sir??
Just tried to buy an n32! $105 freight from China! I'll wait until they ship from America.
Hello Chuck, i just got this printer and im not having good luck with great prints. im using cura and not sure what printer to select since its a direct drive? can you help me with this or do you have a profile for the Voxelab Aquila s2?
I’d just use an Ender 3 Pro machine profile and my slicing profiles. Just change retraction to 2mm. ruclips.net/video/jM_jdsx5yFc/видео.html
Awesome thanks chuck. I’m going to give that a try.
No mention of the proprietary nozzle?
What about the safety features of this printer in my research I've done when I was just starting out I found lots off information talking about the firmware freazing up if a thermal runaway situation happens I have found nothing that says they fixed that issue?
Are you looking forward to reviewing the Ender 3 S1? I put an order in for one but will have to wait till the end of January, possibly February before being shipped.
What sold you on it?
@@FilamentFriday I have an Ender 3 pro with all the upgrades and I like how the new S1 has all the features of my pro and more. The build platform is pretty much the same but that doesn’t bother me. One of my favorite things about it how easily the direct drive can be removed and a laser can be easily attached. I probably have twice as much in my pro compared to the S1 that has more features. Ive used knock off lasers with my pro but it’s just not that great. I know the Sprite isn’t an all metal hotend but they are releasing a “Sprite Pro” hot end that is all metal. I’m just a hobbyist that likes to 3D print stuff so honestly the Ender 3 s1 meets all my needs at an affordable price. I know a lot of people say choose the Ender 5 but there’s nothing wrong with the Ender 3 and for my needs it will do just fine.
So theoretically there should be a voxelab direct drive with all metal hot-end, bolt on upgrade coming for x2 and earlier?
Not sure. Would also need a firmware upgrade
I didn't hear a mention of the drivers. I'm assuming they're silent drivers like the V2?
Yes, I should have mentioned. Silent drivers and the hotend fan is quiet.
Wrong it is an Ender 3 S1 clone. The major issue you need to be aware of is some boards have the H32 chip and others the N32. Super important as only the N32 will allow firmware upgrades.
did they fix the fire safety issue int he first model that thomas sanladerer diagnosed in the first model?
looks like you can only get the h32 ... i was looking to buy one and when it gives you the choise between h and n it auto fills in the h one and will not let you choose the n32
They know. The N2 is suppose to be in stock sometime this month. I just got an early release.
Can we get Marlin on these since it is closer to Ender 3??
I wonder if I could just put that hot end on a ender 3
Just install this, you get the same performance. But either way you still need to update the firmware to go beyond the 260° limit. ruclips.net/video/tYbL-O3FecY/видео.html
Seems very interesting. Looks like a unique hotend design. Wonder how accurate it is. I had issues with the glass bead thermistor that came stock so I ended up upgrading it to a cartridge style and a copper block on my stock Aquila. Once I see this thing in action more I'll be able to choose between this and the new ender. Would love to see a VS between this and the ender if you get the chance!
You mean the S1?
I have one coming but it’s not a high temp hotend.
Well..justcput it in then...they are like 20 bucks😏
is there a file for temp block without having toplay around with settings
Nice printer!
Modbot got a nice print with his too. Unfortunately the one he chose couldn’t finish due to not enough filament.
when will we see an ender 3 s1 review?
Thanks for bringing that up. I'm waiting on a good S1 review that looks at both the positives and negatives of the S1. I've seen a few reviews on the S1, but I still prefer someone like CHEP doing the review.
When I receive it. It’s been shipped but hasn’t arrived.
@@FilamentFriday ok thank you!
Can you comment on how noisy it is in stock condition?
Nice with carbon based filament, but with a standard brass nozzle,the nozzle will quickly wear out.
You should compare this to Ender 3 s1
I have an S1 coming but I know it’s not a high temp extruder. S1 had the same old PTFE to nozzle limitation. And at $399 it should have it.
It would be great if that extruder/hotend came as an upgrade option for other printers. I'm one of the apparent few that bought an Ender 3 Max, and its hard to find anything that fits to the seemingly unique X carriage on this printer. The few that might fit seem to have short bits of PTFE tube which limits their heat capacity. Ideally I'd like a cheap printable upgrade but pigs just don't fly!
You want direct drive or high temp?
Have you tried the new Ender 3 S1? This printer has some, but not all, the features that it has.
I just received one. The hotend is not high temp, but has autolevel. At $399 though it better be good.
Hello, I am surprised it does not have dual z axis leadscrews to handle the extra weight of the direct drive. I would be curious how it reacts at something like 40-60mm/s, if the corners are still sharp? Have you tried the nylon yet? Thanks for the review! I just saw this on their site last night and am considering it.
Have not tried nylon yet.
@@FilamentFriday thanks, I went with the Sovol SV01, much cheaper with dual servos and I can update the heat later. Coming from the machining/CNC world, I am very pleased with the extra bit of rigidity and precision. I wanted to say though you definitely have the most informative 3D print channel I have found. Just your Cura videos are exponentially invaluable in saving time learning the finer bits. All the best and thanks for the help! Eddie
What is the max bed temperature of these PEI spring steel beds? Aren’t magnets loosing their power above 80C for good?
No they are high temp magnets.
Chuck. 🎊🎆🥳HAPPY NEW YEAR🎊🥳
Happy New Year
Nice tan Chuck, Florida?
I'd be really curious on you trying out a hybrid cable drive extruder set up. Any thoughts on this set up?
I’ve seen it and talked to the creators but really don’t see the advantage. The weight of the direct drive isn’t that big of a disadvantage.
Is it using a hardened nozzle? What brand hotend?
Nope brass nozzle. Some hex shaped design. Not sure what brand.
@@FilamentFriday The nozzle should at least have some protective coating against abrasive materials to last. Just like micro swiss nozzle.
I print with Brass nozzle and just replace more often. You get better heat transfer and they are a lot cheaper.
@@FilamentFriday what about carbon fiber nylon? I’ve got a bunch of it for my Markforged, and I’m looking for a a second machine to print with.
As long as it’s 280° or less you should be fine.
Oh that's pretty nice, but I'm having an issue with a direct drive system.
I have an Ender 3 v2. I'm switching to a Microswiss direct drive setup, but I'm not sure what acceleration, jerk, speed, retraction distance/speeds, and gcode changes and all that I need to make. Any tips?
I didn’t change much when I did similar. ruclips.net/video/iFNcP-OyAH0/видео.html
@@FilamentFriday Thank you. I've also thought about going with dual 12v blower fans for part cooling, so that's going to be an adventure.
@@ILEFTCAPS0N Why 12v fans instead of 24v? Yes, I realize that you can run 2, 12v in parallel but why force a rewire? I'm just curious, because my 24v fans are in the mail & will be here in a few days.
@@3sotErik My stock fans aren't really that good and need a serious upgrade, and heard 2 12v blowers are amazing for the cooling. Depending on the shroud you're using, a 24v fan should be very good, but the 2 fans were slightly cheaper for me since I already have a ton of JST/Molex/Dupont connectors lol.
@@ILEFTCAPS0N Yeah, the fans on the Ender 3 v2 are pretty terrible. I'm still going with 2 fans, just not in series.
Has anyone a source for quality nozzles for this printer
What 3d printer would you get under 200 dollars
Right now, probably Elegoo Neptune 2.
@@FilamentFriday over the aquila
I wonder why no one has developed a enclosed high temp ender-3 / ender-5 style printer... At least high temperature enough for Nylon / Polycarbonate Polymers.. my guess is probably just the cost
Price! these are entry level devices
@@shaunmorrissey7313 Absolutely I doubt anyone would spend $700-$800 on a kitted out ender 3/ Ender 5 lol
Ceality already sells a canvas enclosure that works really well. I actually prefer it over a big heavy, attached enclosure.
@@infernaldaedra Huh? That's illogical.
People buy the E3v2 instead of the mk3s right now. Why wouldn't they pay more for something that was the same price but even more decked out?
A slightly upgraded E3 V2 is just as good as a mk3s. So why wouldn't someone pay $700 for something that's twice as good?
You know people are already investing that much in there Enders now right?
@@shaunmorrissey7313 Define entry level.
Because with just $150 in upgrades my E3V2 prints exactly like an mk3s.
A $10 shovel and a $50 shovel will dig the same hole in the right hands.
Nice
Need an adapter to use the skr mini e3 v2/3 in these machines
Why would you put an e3 mini in one? This already has all the same features.
@@backgammonbacon not a fan of the stock boards
Are they trolling Ender 3 S1? :D
S1 has dual z and ABL...
your chep profile link is not found
It’s fixed. Refresh.
@@FilamentFriday thanks
If you have an ender 3 already they the extruder/hotend by itself for $70.
Where is that?
Plus you get silent drivers and PEI metal flex plate for that price?
@@FilamentFriday Voxelab sells it, "300℃ High Temperature Direct Extruder for Aquila S2", under accesries/aquila. It is just the extruder, hotend and nozel. But they do sell all the other things individually. You could buy the whole printer one part at a time.
Good point. Great upgrade option for existing Aquila’s since they already have silent drivers.
Would it be a straight swap for an Ender 3 then?
I wonder if at this temperature it can print using PCB soldering wire as the base filament? Of course I don't want you to broke the machine trying it :) but would be cool to see it.
A standard nozzle temp can melt it. I’ve tried it and it just sticks to the nozzle and blocks it up.
280$ for a 100$ upgrade ?? I print Carbon PETG all the time on my stock Aquila and you really dont need Ddrive to do so. If you want to print TPU all day thats a complete different ballgame....so is nylon! For other reasons 😜
What temperature?
CHEP now i know dam well u did not just use the manual with your experience come on now lol tisk tisk lol love your vids man
By todays standards, I don't think 300°C is considered "high-temp" anymore.
Compared to all the Ender 3’s and clones, that have PTFE all the way to the nozzle thus limiting it to effectively 235°C, it’s huge.
@@FilamentFriday maybe mid range temperature would be more representative! Cause your have low (ptfe lined, 240 max), medium (all metal, but aluminium and brass parts and thermistor, max 300) and then high temp at like 450c (copper heatblock, pt100)
We are talking about (cheap) consumer printers, so it is :D
@@kimmotoivanen it's more mid-field, still.
N32 not available in the US
Hi Steve. How do you know this? If you don’t mind me asking.
Edit: Found the option grayed on their site. You’re correct sir.
Edit 2: doesn’t look like N32 is available anywhere
@@3DPrintSOS You got it.
Not available anywhere, its probably going to eventually be avalable
@@3DPrintSOS I believe it's just a temporary out-of-stock issue.
They don't make printers they copy Creality ones that is not fair glad we can have the same product for less money hehe
And think this is a clone of ender 3 S1 and not ender 3 v2
🔥💕👍
A manufacturer deciding to rely on a 3rd party to provide firmware is not good. Sounds like a great excuse for a manufacturer to pawn much of their support off to the open source community. Also means they are selling something they don't completely understand.
It is good to see cheap machines catching up on hardware, not just the cheapest options. But this firmware issue is unacceptable.
Based on what I’ve seen, I wish they would just pay the 3rd party guys to create the firmware up front. They do a horrible job on their own.
Third parties always provide better firmware anyway, for anything tech.
So this is a complete non-issue for me.
@@dangerous8333 Then this needs to be sold as a box of parts that you turn into something, maybe a printer? not sold as a complete printer. This approach lets the manufacturer off the hook for actually building/selling/supporting a real, quality product. More of let's throw some crap out there, and let the community figure it out on Facebook. We already have too many Creality want to be clones.
The fact that Chuck provides better profiles for Creality machines, than Creality does, is proof in point. He knows their machines better than they do! What incentive do they have to make good stuff, when so many people are just focused on cheap?
I do wish manufacturers would stop making single Z printers... just do dual Z! so much better and easier to tune!
@@ThantiK Just because it CAN work if you get the wheel tension absolutely perfect, there can still be deflection. My point isn't opinion dude, its fact - dual Z is better.
Lol at everyone getting excited over an all-metal hotend.
The S1 is still better.
All it needs is an all metal hotend, which someone will release soon.
The Aquila needs dual z, Auto bed leveling, firmware. For those of you that think you don't want ABL, you've probably never used a CR touch with Jyers before. I call my E3V2 the Ronco (set it and forget it).
There's your $125 savings right there, and in the end the S1 is still made better, looks better and has better firmware and a bigger community.
This is just an an E3v2 with direct drive (not even needed for 99.99% of prints and not something I would do without dual-z anyway) and an all metal hotend.
If you don't think you'll ever need any more upgrades for this Aquila then go for it, but I'd pass. Enders are just more polished and the S1 is about $100 cheaper than if you did all those upgrade on your E3v2 or this Aquila. Aquila is trying, I'll give them that.