I’m an old hot rod’er that finds this very fascinating. Once I decided to jump in & get started I found RUclips videos as a good source. Wow it didn’t take long to notice the incredible range of poor instruction to the high level of instruction. You my friend offer some of the highest level of instructional videos I have found here. Looking forward to what you produce next!
I’ve always loved learning and over the decades I’ve taken quite a few classes in many different subjects taught by many different people. That said, I have to say that you are among the most gifted teachers I’ve ever had the honor of learning under. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such an interesting and easy to understand way. You are truly appreciated.
I just found this video. Looked over your other video's and immediately subscribed. I understand the keyless works now and the motion works. Before I knew what it was all called and where it went but never was able to visualize how it all interacted. Thank you for your step by step explanations. Anyone one interested in learning about watchmaking or repair should watch this series, thank you for such excellent content... Now I am going to go watch the rest of your videos.
Even though we beginners are on later levels of this course, the contents in this lesson are so relevant. Hence why I watch the previous lessons every so often. Checking each item after install has allowed me to learn to watch repair and enjoy what I am doing. Still have errors, but at least I find them before I move on to the next. I can now feel the parts when something is wrong, then apply the redo. Experience will allow me to overcome the problems earlier. Thank you, Alex,
Yep, think in function groups. (balance, train of wheels, barrel assy) and test them. Rhis way you're directly to the problem rather than afterwards trying to find it. It helps me a lot. Also when I'm not constanly working on a watch.
The 24 hour settle in advice is very good. I've made this mistake myself, getting in a hurry, only to have to regulate the watch again later on after it has settled in.
I just found this channel and im soo glad! Ive been wanting to learn how to fix my watches. I learned on my own how to change batteries and remove links but want to go into the difficult area and finding your channel is just awesome, ty!! ❤
I haven't taken a watch apart yet. I've been watching all your videos and learning. After watching this video, I have a little more confidence. Thank you 👍
Thanks for the information. Just started getting into watch making. In 1927, my great grandfather fell into the Ohio River with his Elgin pocket watch. It quit running and he passed away shortly after. This watch sat in a drawer for many years becoming a rusty mess. I am studying watchmaking with your videos. It is interesting to realize that once upon a time watchmaking was a profession one could support oneself doing.
watchmaking was one of the better jobs that women could get back in the 30s 40s and 50s. After WWII, many of the turning servicemen turn to watch making, and there was a glut or surplus of repairman. This created a situation where watchmakers would bid on a repair job, and in many cases would have to bid very low in order to get the work this often lead to less than one quality work. Today people make a very comfortable living as watchmakers working for luxury brands, but the smaller, independent watch makers are slowly being squeezed out of existence. It would be awesome if there was a way to get that Elgin running again. I inherited my great grandfather’s pocket watch. He was a very wealthy man being in the coal and ice business, but ironically on the dollar watch, which I have never been able to identify to this day.
Great video. Your videos are so usefull to this new watch enthusiast. Thanks so much for taking the time to put these together. Looking forward to seeing the next one.
These lessons have been super helpful. I am waiting on my tools to arrive so I can start work on my first watch. At least I'm not going in blind anymore. Thanks.
Nice one again Alex! Waiting at least 24hrs before regulating is a real good tip that no-one else brings up. It took many, many frustrating hours before that one eventually dawned on me. Still, I'm not the patient type and I just can't help chucking the movement straight into the TG after assembly haha.
Excellent. You touch on things other gloss over. I will watch this and your others multiple times 'til it sinks way in. Almost ready to disassemble a junker 8800 movement (hey, it's swiss!) with ONE jewel. Thank you.
Simple yet informative. Looking forward to the next lesson. By the way, I'm downloading each one of your lessons and creating a library. They are terrific for future reference or just plain "going over again." Thanks again.
What a beautiful instructional video, virtually going through all the mistakes I make. It explains in a logical manner the precautionary steps one should go through to make sure all sub-assemblies work correctly.
Me right now with a 7s26 that's driving me utterly nuts. i've serviced almost a dozen of them, mostly uneventful. The one i took apart just needed a service and was running pretty fine. I've cleaned and oiled it four times, serviced the barrel three times. Amplitude will not get past 240. Goin out of my mind here. This i think will speed it up. I always assemble it in the order of the tech sheet. Knowing i can let the keyless works wait till later will save me a lot of time trying to figure out what on earth is going on. Great and endlessly helpful video as always.
That may be all the amplitude that you're gonna get out of that old girl. It is generally thought that Seiko accepted a lower amplitude as a trade off for having less wear on the parts and therefore longevity as a trade off for the watch being isochronal as the movement runs down.
First of all I want to thank you for making these videos Mr. Hamilton you have a natural ability for teaching for sure. I have been watching all your videos thus far and am not bored in the slightest I also noticed that not having the dial side components not installed makes a difference as well. Adding the components makes a difference it might be slight. But, everything we do makes a difference do you notice that?
So think of it like this. Start with the four systems that control how well the watch runs mechanically. The main spring barrel, the powertrain, the escapement, and the balance wheel. The keyless works is installed as well, but it doesn’t affect how well the watch runs. By isolating, the four systems, if you’re suffering from low, amplitude, you know that there’s no other influences other than the four systems installed. This makes it easier to troubleshoot. Now, when you start adding in other things, like a Calendar works, the motion works, and the dial on hands. If you start having amplitude problems, you know that it’s one of those systems, causing the problem this becomes even more important when you start working with chronographs.
There are 3 common issues when a movement will run in one horizontal position and not run in the other. 1) bent pivot 2) hairspring hitting the balance cock and 3) some sort of clearance problem with the pallet fork with another part. There is other things it could be but that’s where I would start looking. The best way to check this is to remove the pallet, fork, and then reinstall the balance wheel. With a blower, get the balance wheel, spinning and see how long it oscillates until it stops, then flip it over to the other horizontal position and do it again. If it’s a balance will pivot problem you’ll see that. If the balance will spins evenly in both positions, then reinstall the pallet, fork, and do it again check both horizontal positions and if one position stops, the problem will be under the balance wheel.
Your last point was really good. You really do have to wait a day to allow the watch to settle in before you can actually regulate it properly. Trying to figure out why the amplitude is low is the tricky one and usually the one that’s stumped me the most even though I do all of what you said sometimes there’s something minor that causes it like the guard pin being too close to the roller table which I had on a recent watch and managed to adjust it on my staking set.
@@watchrepairtutorials I think in the process of completing a watch and then regulating it, a lot of people don’t know that it needs to run for 24 hours to settle in. This is why I think it was a great point to make. I find that the amplitude increases significantly after 24 hours when it works itself in.
Just came across your channel, and I'm glad to be a new subscriber. In the few videos I've watched, you have addressed several questions I have wondered about since I started my watch repair journey. I look forward to going through all of your videos. Thanks for sharing.
I am starting a series right now on watch adjusting and regulation. These videos will be the foundation of a lot of troubleshooting around the balance wheel. Did you have something specific in mind?
@@watchrepairtutorials Mainly when to stop going down the rabbit hole and putting the watch in the spare parts bin. I'm presently working through a pile of wrist watches Benrus, Bulova, Orvin , Elgin to name a few. I pull the movements out of the cases and they are in pristine condition and they just don't run well. I don't know where to start troubleshooting when I see jewels that look new pivots the are still shiny no grooves or rust or pits. so how about pulling a watch from a pile from the fifty's or sixty's that doesn't run well, but it runs and go through the process. I'll be happy send you one from my pile. I don't doubt your abilities at all thats not what I'm trying to get across. Everyone makes videos taking a watch apart cleaning it and putting it back together. There's no useful content doing that. they are just putting on a show. Thanks
@@dannyperkins4220 Hello again, Does the problem you seem to have stem around not having high enough amplitude for the watch to run or are you having more issues around the escapement? I couldn’t agree more that the majority of videos are purely for entertainment. How long of a video should you sit through? 30 minutes, an hr ?
@@watchrepairtutorials yes, I must be missing some steps in the disassembly process. I understand that accumlative problems can make a watch weak and not run well such as weak mainsprings misalignment issues etc.. When I put the watches back together I assemble the train wheels and use a puffer to make sure there are no misalignment issues. and I build from there then the pallet fork mainspring and finally the balance wheel. I have a problem when putting the balance on due to having to alignment of the roller table jewel and the pallet fork. I eventually get things aligned. I am an amateur and I want to learn the right way. I'll watch for 30 mins or longer. How long would it take you to take a wrist watch from the 60's with auto wind take it apart trouble shoot causes of poor running. order parts reassemble and teach the process? IT wouldn't be an easy process. think about it this is what we need content and follow up and follow through to completion. Where is the point during the teardown process that one decides to let it go to the parts bin.
@@dannyperkins4220 1st, you should be installing the barrel along with the rest of the power train and test its free running together before installing the pallet fork. The disassembly process involves a lot of inspections and check that are not shown in any video's i have seen on youtube. Maybe an occasional end shake test but the barrel and escapement also should be checked for proper function. Then there is an order of assembly and function verification that's also missing. As far as servicing a non runner, if its just a matter of a mainspring and some adjustments, i can usually get one done in 4-6 total. Depending on the issue sometimes you have to make a correction then let it run for 24 hrs. to get the results. Add the filming and editing process, it will take a week
Wow, great video! Bonus was the bonus tip which I have never seen in any video before! Would be nice to see how to check for slight bent balance staffs that make the watch run which then stop at a particular position /angle while wearing the watch! This has happened to me which three different watchmakers failed to pick up! I hear that Eta 2801 balance eta 2824-2 balance staffs can't be replaced!
This is easily done. If a balance pivot is bent at all, it will show up in differences in horizontal timegrapher readings. All the issues you are talking about come out when you test the watch, the week after service.
I have bought a citizen watch as my first that a watchmaker on youtube has assembled so if I need help I just have to watch him....his watch works at least in the end of the video!!!
Well, I’m getting super low amplitude, -300 to -800 rate, 0 beat error. This is all my fault. The date change was working great when I got it but the gmt hour wasn’t turning. Some random person in a forum said it was a keyless works problem. Took it apart. Saw no problem. Put it back together. Did this once more. Then I thought about swapping the stem for a new one. Problem solved. Only now it’s giving me crazy readings and the screen looks like a snowstorm. I’m pretty sure I screwed something up royally, mostly because I didn’t think I needed to oil anything as it’s a new movement. I think I need to watch your video on endshake a few times.
@@caltagironeorologi1 -300 to -800 spd sound like a hairspring issue my man. Make sure it’s not rubbing on anything . There’s other things that could be, but that’s the most likely.
i have the exact same zenith watch cleaning machine as you do with the original green glass jars. it was my grandfathers. first time i've seen another one.
Thank you, great video and sharing. I am having this exact moment. Looking at the hairspring, just not willing to turn, or turning with very low amplitude then stop..... Know something must be wrong but still figuring out what ...........
Take the pallet fork out and see it the balance wheel rotates freely. With a puffer, blow the balance wheel. It should run freely for 20 seconds or longer
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for your advise, I took off the pallet fork and gave a slight push to the barrel, the wheels spun for a second but without backlash and kinda stopped abruptly in the end. Now I remove all parts and try cleaning them again, do another inspection. Thanks so much.
Wow, another terrific video, thank you Alex! The tip on backlash was especially interesting to me, and as usual, I've got a question 😄. Why exactly do the wheels stop, then reverse? I get that seeing it allows you to know the pivots are clean and good to go, but why exactly does the direction reverse? What part is impinging that reversing force? Is it the clickspring being between teeth, so it moves the barrel back slightly in the opposite direction? That's the only thing I can think of which might reverse the direction of the power train, with the balance uninstalled.
@@watchrepairtutorials Fair, I'll have to live with that mystery then heh. If you've got a moment an easier question for you: how do you like your Zenith watch cleaning machine? Aside from having four jars compared to the L&R's three, it seems like they're about the same. Do you use your food dehydrator instead of the dryer on the machine?
That's real hard to put into words that makes sense, but basically when you move the train in either direction the main spring in the barrel tenses up slightly from rest. The train reversing after you release it is the main spring returning to rest. The outside of the main spring barrel isn't directly connected to the arbour, but through the main spring itself. The very slight resistance of the arbour in the arbour hole is enough to give slight braking action to the inside of the spring, tensioning the spring when the other side (or outside of the barrel) is moved. I had to rewrite this a few times - I hope it makes sense
Record the whole take down process and take pictures on your first watch takedowns. Record print it back together. If your get lost, it's better to have something to look back on. Not for every watch takedown, but at first, this is what i did.
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I think the only difference is the 1900 you can manually set the BPH which is not really that important and the 1900 supposedly has a better screen. I also use etimer which is computer software. It operates like the more higher end timing machines that cost around 4-5k , but I think it cost around 600-700 including a mic stand. Either the 1900 or 1000 would be more than efficient if you are trying to save some money
I am stumped. I am working on a Breitling with a Felsa Bidynator 1560. I did not take enough pictures of the disassembly. The barrel has gears on both top and bottom and the second wheel is a double wheel. When I install the train, it does not engage with the barrel. I have not gotten past this point on the reassembly.
Lets say I put a movement back together, checking things as I go. All of the train and power wheels up to the pallet fork and balance spring are running smooth and good. You install the pallet fork and balance spring and the watch will not run more than ten seconds. Would suspect the pallet fork and or the balance wheel or something entirely different. Blowing air on the balance wheel makes it turn freely for over 5 seconds and while the watch is running the pallet fork seems to be doing it's thing. So is there a likely cause for the watch not running or should I just start over?
OK so you're saying that the train is spinning free and you have back spin and the balance will without the pallet fork installed,, the balance wheel oscillates for 20 to 30 seconds on its own when you blow air on it? So these systems are running as they should. And of course the mainspring is fully wound. Then you add the pallet fork to the movement now the balance wheel only operates for five seconds or so. This is an escapement fault somewhere between the pallet fork stones and the impulse jewel. There are many things it could be. Was the movement acting like this before you took it apart or during your disassembly inspections or did this fault start after you serviced the movement?
Very educative video. Sir, can you let me know while putting the balance wheel back, in which side the pallet fork end should be - the left side end or right side end. Kindly advise. Thank you.
If you’re referring to the zenith basket cleaner, no, no idea. I would probably set up a notification on eBay for vintage zenith cleaning machines and see if anything comes up
When a watch is wound the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel turns the arbor in the barrel winding the mainspring. If when you wind the watch the entire barrel is moving then the arbor is not rotating as it should and you need to open and inspect the barrel. If you are talking about the barrel is unwinding then the the click spring which is what prevents it from rotating in the wrong direction is not functioning properly.
Thanks. I realize I was asking a dumb question after I discovered that the the mainspring will rotate freely until it is connected to the train wheels. A video I find would be helpful is one where you could go through some of the details of what you have found to be the most likely solution to some of the problems. Or is it that that the movement is so delicate that a lot or areas can cause a similar problem. Thanks
Hi sir, I was looking for a watches repairing and horology courses on tutorials platforms like udemy and I couldn't find one , why wouldn't you do one , a comperhensive one ?
@@watchrepairtutorials Current beat error is 2.4, but the accuracy is -4 to +1 seconds per day. Pretty accurate for an NH 35. It was +25 seconds a day before I opened it up and adjusted the regulating lever, and obviously screwed up the best error.
Sir, recently I have had problems with two of my watches. One a Tissot day date and the other a Glycine day date. I find that the hour hand has lost its alignment in both these watches. While in the Glycine watch, the hour hand is between 8 & 9 at 9 o'clock, in the Tissot watch, the hour hand is standstill, but the miniute and second hands are moving. I took the Glycine watch to a local watch maker, and he set it right. But the problem resurfaced. Both these watches are, apparently, in very good condition and more than a decade old. Is it because I have not serviced them even once? Please let me have your expert opinion and advice. Thanks for all your help.
It almost sound like they are missing the dial washers. The hour hand is connected to the hour wheel. The hour wheel sits loose over the canon pinion with no screws to hold it in place. The purpose of the dial washer is to put a small amount of pressure between the hour wheel and the underside of the dial to hold it in place, while still allowing the our wheel to rotate with the hr hand. If the dial washer is missing or has been flattened the teeth from the hour wheel become disengaged from the teeth of the minute wheel which is turning it. If they, our wheel does not go back into its position with the minute wheel, the hour hand will stop moving. If the hour wheel comes out of contact with the minute wheel for 30 minutes and then goes back into position, the hour hand will show that it is 30 minutes slow. Of course, there are other things that could be but more than likely this is the issue. You just need new dial washers.
Thank you so much, Sir. You are incredible. If you already have online coaching or plan to start one later, please let me know. Of course, it is on a payment basis. Thank you Sir, once again.
@@kswaminathan5439 as a matter of fact I do. I am uploading 1 lesson a month to my matchmaking course. I have the first 2 of 20 lessons uploaded and and will have the third finished this month. A link is in the description.
The problem for many repairers is that they have no idea about the mechanical theory, how the watch actually works. You ask them why the lever escapement needs oil and they won't know.
I totally agree with what you're saying. Probably the biggest gap in knowledge is that of the escapement and its functioning. When you're working on vintage watches, other problems can be somewhat obvious, but when it comes to problems within the escapement, that's where people get hung up .
To see how everything is supposed to function, first hand, is really important before tackling the problems associated with antique watches. This is the exact opposite of what I did. It wasn't fun. Many many "WTF" moments. For what... $35 you can get a brand new st36 to learn with? No brainer! Try to see backlash on a 100 year old 7 jewel Elgin from eBay... Lol.
Exactly right Rick. For it to happen in those old girls every pivot hole has to be right, the pivots have to have the right side shake, be polished and on and on. It’s an incredible amount of work to put them back to factory specifics.
Muy buen profesional de relojería, pero habla demasiado. Creo que hablar menos y mostrar más el trabajo sería mejor. Excellent professional of wach repair. But talk to much. Sometimes, silent is necessary and important to show the work way, and the fans will can understand. It will be better. Thank you.
I’m an old hot rod’er that finds this very fascinating. Once I decided to jump in & get started I found RUclips videos as a good source. Wow it didn’t take long to notice the incredible range of poor instruction to the high level of instruction. You my friend offer some of the highest level of instructional videos I have found here. Looking forward to what you produce next!
Welcome aboard Rick.
These videos are invaluable for someone new to all of this.
Awesome to hear. Thanks
I think many repairers I've encountered could use these videos too.👍
The more I see your videos the more motivated I feel to start doing basic service to my first automatic watch! 👍
You can do it! Come on Francisco
I love your common sense and practical approach to watch servicing. Thanks for this video series. It’s a huge help to this community
Glad it was helpful my friend
You have the easiest and simplest method to follow THAT WORKS!!! Thank you!
Glad to hear it brother. I hope I showed you something that helps.
I’ve always loved learning and over the decades I’ve taken quite a few classes in many different subjects taught by many different people. That said, I have to say that you are among the most gifted teachers I’ve ever had the honor of learning under. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such an interesting and easy to understand way. You are truly appreciated.
You are very kind my friend, thank you.
Great info here, for the hobbyist, who is always learning! Thanks for posting.
I just found this video,Looking forward to the next lesson.Great info here, for the hobbyis
I just found this video. Looked over your other video's and immediately subscribed. I understand the keyless works now and the motion works. Before I knew what it was all called and where it went but never was able to visualize how it all interacted. Thank you for your step by step explanations. Anyone one interested in learning about watchmaking or repair should watch this series, thank you for such excellent content... Now I am going to go watch the rest of your videos.
Thank you for the kind words. It means a lot to me that’s it’s helping you.
Excellent overview of some of the basics any watch repairer, either rookie or seasoned should always follow. Discipline is the key !
Thanks brother, hope to see what you think of the next video
Even though we beginners are on later levels of this course, the contents in this lesson are so relevant. Hence why I watch the previous lessons every so often. Checking each item after install has allowed me to learn to watch repair and enjoy what I am doing. Still have errors, but at least I find them before I move on to the next. I can now feel the parts when something is wrong, then apply the redo. Experience will allow me to overcome the problems earlier.
Thank you, Alex,
Jeez man, you are making me blush. Thanks for your words as always.
Alex
Yep, think in function groups. (balance, train of wheels, barrel assy) and test them. Rhis way you're directly to the problem rather than afterwards trying to find it. It helps me a lot. Also when I'm not constanly working on a watch.
Great tips, which I had never heard before!
That’s actually the whole point of the channel. To give people information not talked about on other channels. Thank you
Keep making these free videos because I'm new to this hobby and i can't afford to pay a lot to learn what ive always wanted to know.
Check out my playlist. There is plenty for you to learn and practice.
The 24 hour settle in advice is very good. I've made this mistake myself, getting in a hurry, only to have to regulate the watch again later on after it has settled in.
Yep. People don't know this unless they learn it. It's kind of watchmaking 101.
Thanks man
I just found this channel and im soo glad! Ive been wanting to learn how to fix my watches. I learned on my own how to change batteries and remove links but want to go into the difficult area and finding your channel is just awesome, ty!! ❤
Welcome to the club! We are glad you are here!
I haven't taken a watch apart yet. I've been watching all your videos and learning. After watching this video, I have a little more confidence. Thank you 👍
Fantastic! Great work as always Mr Hamilton. Love the acting at the beginning.
LOL. Thanks Steven. Getting out of my comfort zone a little, but I was trying to make a point.
Thank you very much dear Alex, greetings from Athens - Greece.
All right, my Greek brother is here! I Love it.
Great teacher. You know they ought to teach watch in high school
There used to be some of that back in the old days, but I don’t think they do it anymore
Thanks for the information. Just started getting into watch making. In 1927, my great grandfather fell into the Ohio River with his Elgin pocket watch. It quit running and he passed away shortly after. This watch sat in a drawer for many years becoming a rusty mess. I am studying watchmaking with your videos. It is interesting to realize that once upon a time watchmaking was a profession one could support oneself doing.
watchmaking was one of the better jobs that women could get back in the 30s 40s and 50s.
After WWII, many of the turning servicemen turn to watch making, and there was a glut or surplus of repairman. This created a situation where watchmakers would bid on a repair job, and in many cases would have to bid very low in order to get the work this often lead to less than one quality work. Today people make a very comfortable living as watchmakers working for luxury brands, but the smaller, independent watch makers are slowly being squeezed out of existence.
It would be awesome if there was a way to get that Elgin running again. I inherited my great grandfather’s pocket watch. He was a very wealthy man being in the coal and ice business, but ironically on the dollar watch, which I have never been able to identify to this day.
You deserve more subscribers. Each video is better produced than the last, and the content is just what's needed. Keep up the good work!
You made my day. Thank you
Great video. Your videos are so usefull to this new watch enthusiast. Thanks so much for taking the time to put these together. Looking forward to seeing the next one.
Thanks brother. I’m glad you are finding this useful.
I am in the process of servicing my first movement and want to thank you for the video series you have published. Great job.
You can do it Stephen.
These lessons have been super helpful. I am waiting on my tools to arrive so I can start work on my first watch. At least I'm not going in blind anymore. Thanks.
You got this Dave. Just remember that Rome wasn't built in a day. Patience is a virtue in watch repair
Nice one again Alex! Waiting at least 24hrs before regulating is a real good tip that no-one else brings up. It took many, many frustrating hours before that one eventually dawned on me. Still, I'm not the patient type and I just can't help chucking the movement straight into the TG after assembly haha.
It doesn’t hurt to look, just don’t try to adjust it yet. 😜
Excellent. You touch on things other gloss over. I will watch this and your others multiple times 'til it sinks way in. Almost ready to disassemble a junker 8800 movement (hey, it's swiss!) with ONE jewel. Thank you.
Thanks Ron,
Touching on the untouched is what I try to do.
hi, amazingly skilled teaching. you have empathy for others, thank you for your explanations they are superb
You are very welcome Tim
This is better content than courses I've paid for. I notice you using a fine paintbrush to manipulate the pallet fork. What a great tip!
Thank you Christopher. Maybe it will fill in the blanks for you. Good luck and see you again
Simple yet informative. Looking forward to the next lesson.
By the way, I'm downloading each one of your lessons and creating a library. They are terrific for future reference or just plain "going over again."
Thanks again.
Thank you very much. I’ll keep working at it.
Very helpful and instructional series, thank you so much.
You're very welcome forest ranger.
What a beautiful instructional video, virtually going through all the mistakes I make. It explains in a logical manner the precautionary steps one should go through to make sure all sub-assemblies work correctly.
Thank you may friend. I’m glad you found some value.
You're just the man. Your videos are amazing. Thank you!
I appreciate that Christian. Thanks for stopping by.
Man just started a moth ago ..but you make it easy and fun thank you sir.
It’s good to have you following along.
great tips Alex, practical and easy to understand
My pleasure!
Me right now with a 7s26 that's driving me utterly nuts. i've serviced almost a dozen of them, mostly uneventful. The one i took apart just needed a service and was running pretty fine.
I've cleaned and oiled it four times, serviced the barrel three times. Amplitude will not get past 240. Goin out of my mind here. This i think will speed it up. I always assemble it in the order of the tech sheet. Knowing i can let the keyless works wait till later will save me a lot of time trying to figure out what on earth is going on. Great and endlessly helpful video as always.
That may be all the amplitude that you're gonna get out of that old girl.
It is generally thought that Seiko accepted a lower amplitude as a trade off for having less wear on the parts and therefore longevity as a trade off for the watch being isochronal as the movement runs down.
A very interesting video Alex. Thank you (UK)
Glad you enjoyed it
First of all I want to thank you for making these videos Mr. Hamilton you have a natural ability for teaching for sure. I have been watching all your videos thus far and am not bored in the slightest I also noticed that not having the dial side components not installed makes a difference as well. Adding the components makes a difference it might be slight. But, everything we do makes a difference do you notice that?
So think of it like this. Start with the four systems that control how well the watch runs mechanically. The main spring barrel, the powertrain, the escapement, and the balance wheel. The keyless works is installed as well, but it doesn’t affect how well the watch runs.
By isolating, the four systems, if you’re suffering from low, amplitude, you know that there’s no other influences other than the four systems installed. This makes it easier to troubleshoot.
Now, when you start adding in other things, like a Calendar works, the motion works, and the dial on hands. If you start having amplitude problems, you know that it’s one of those systems, causing the problem this becomes even more important when you start working with chronographs.
@@watchrepairtutorials so your saying to check your watch after each system is installed, if you do do you check each system after 24 hrs?
@@lobdsk once your balance is swinging give it 24 hours to let the mainspring and oils settle in before you try to do anything else.
@@watchrepairtutorials your a genius
@@lobdsk no, just trained
When I turn the balance wheel of the watch down, it moves, but when I turn it towards the dial side, it stops. Why, sir?
There are 3 common issues when a movement will run in one horizontal position and not run in the other. 1) bent pivot 2) hairspring hitting the balance cock and 3) some sort of clearance problem with the pallet fork with another part.
There is other things it could be but that’s where I would start looking.
The best way to check this is to remove the pallet, fork, and then reinstall the balance wheel. With a blower, get the balance wheel, spinning and see how long it oscillates until it stops, then flip it over to the other horizontal position and do it again. If it’s a balance will pivot problem you’ll see that. If the balance will spins evenly in both positions, then reinstall the pallet, fork, and do it again check both horizontal positions and if one position stops, the problem will be under the balance wheel.
@watchrepairtutorials Can you make a video for me to understand a little better? 🙏🏻😀❤️🇳🇵
@ I’ll put it in the list
Your last point was really good. You really do have to wait a day to allow the watch to settle in before you can actually regulate it properly. Trying to figure out why the amplitude is low is the tricky one and usually the one that’s stumped me the most even though I do all of what you said sometimes there’s something minor that causes it like the guard pin being too close to the roller table which I had on a recent watch and managed to adjust it on my staking set.
JD, how many people you think didn't know that?
@@watchrepairtutorials I think in the process of completing a watch and then regulating it, a lot of people don’t know that it needs to run for 24 hours to settle in. This is why I think it was a great point to make. I find that the amplitude increases significantly after 24 hours when it works itself in.
@@JDRichard thanks JD, I appreciate you brother. You are one of the Pioneers of the watch video game on RUclips.
Just came across your channel, and I'm glad to be a new subscriber. In the few videos I've watched, you have addressed several questions I have wondered about since I started my watch repair journey. I look forward to going through all of your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Welcome aboard Edward,
Its going to be a long journey.
Thank you for taking the time to present such great videos and excellent content. I would like to see more repairs and trouble shooting. Thank you.
I am starting a series right now on watch adjusting and regulation.
These videos will be the foundation of a lot of troubleshooting around the balance wheel.
Did you have something specific in mind?
@@watchrepairtutorials Mainly when to stop going down the rabbit hole and putting the watch in the spare parts bin. I'm presently working through a pile of wrist watches Benrus, Bulova, Orvin , Elgin to name a few. I pull the movements out of the cases and they are in pristine condition and they just don't run well. I don't know where to start troubleshooting when I see jewels that look new pivots the are still shiny no grooves or rust or pits. so how about pulling a watch from a pile from the fifty's or sixty's that doesn't run well, but it runs and go through the process. I'll be happy send you one from my pile. I don't doubt your abilities at all thats not what I'm trying to get across. Everyone makes videos taking a watch apart cleaning it and putting it back together. There's no useful content doing that. they are just putting on a show.
Thanks
@@dannyperkins4220 Hello again,
Does the problem you seem to have stem around not having high enough amplitude for the watch to run or are you having more issues around the escapement?
I couldn’t agree more that the majority of videos are purely for entertainment.
How long of a video should you sit through? 30 minutes, an hr ?
@@watchrepairtutorials yes, I must be missing some steps in the disassembly process. I understand that accumlative problems can make a watch weak and not run well such as weak mainsprings misalignment issues etc.. When I put the watches back together I assemble the train wheels and use a puffer to make sure there are no misalignment issues. and I build from there then the pallet fork mainspring and finally the balance wheel. I have a problem when putting the balance on due to having to alignment of the roller table jewel and the pallet fork. I eventually get things aligned. I am an amateur and I want to learn the right way. I'll watch for 30 mins or longer. How long would it take you to take a wrist watch from the 60's with auto wind take it apart trouble shoot causes of poor running. order parts reassemble and teach the process? IT wouldn't be an easy process. think about it this is what we need content and follow up and follow through to completion. Where is the point during the teardown process that one decides to let it go to the parts bin.
@@dannyperkins4220 1st, you should be installing the barrel along with the rest of the power train and test its free running together before installing the pallet fork.
The disassembly process involves a lot of inspections and check that are not shown in any video's i have seen on youtube.
Maybe an occasional end shake test but the barrel and escapement also should be checked for proper function.
Then there is an order of assembly and function verification that's also missing.
As far as servicing a non runner, if its just a matter of a mainspring and some adjustments, i can usually get one done in 4-6 total. Depending on the issue sometimes you have to make a correction then let it run for 24 hrs. to get the results.
Add the filming and editing process, it will take a week
Fantastic videos Alex, i recently wasted a day on a watch by putting the pallet fork in upside down 🤦♂️
Well, I bet you don’t do that again😏
As a new hobbyist watchmaker would love to see more guides on trouble shooting the watch and figuring out problems. Amazing content 🙏
I'm working on a troubleshooting video right now. should be out by the weekend
Thank you. I needed this.
I imagine a lot of newer watchmakers do. Thanks for the validation.
Wow, great video! Bonus was the bonus tip which I have never seen in any video before! Would be nice to see how to check for slight bent balance staffs that make the watch run which then stop at a particular position /angle while wearing the watch! This has happened to me which three different watchmakers failed to pick up! I hear that Eta 2801 balance eta 2824-2 balance staffs can't be replaced!
This is easily done. If a balance pivot is bent at all, it will show up in differences in horizontal timegrapher readings. All the issues you are talking about come out when you test the watch, the week after service.
I have bought a citizen watch as my first that a watchmaker on youtube has assembled so if I need help I just have to watch him....his watch works at least in the end of the video!!!
Thank You Lars
Thank you so much for this information. I’m currently struggling with an NH34 and it’s giving me whacked out readings on the timegrapher.
whats going on?
Well, I’m getting super low amplitude, -300 to -800 rate, 0 beat error. This is all my fault. The date change was working great when I got it but the gmt hour wasn’t turning. Some random person in a forum said it was a keyless works problem. Took it apart. Saw no problem. Put it back together. Did this once more. Then I thought about swapping the stem for a new one. Problem solved. Only now it’s giving me crazy readings and the screen looks like a snowstorm. I’m pretty sure I screwed something up royally, mostly because I didn’t think I needed to oil anything as it’s a new movement. I think I need to watch your video on endshake a few times.
@@caltagironeorologi1 -300 to -800 spd sound like a hairspring issue my man.
Make sure it’s not rubbing on anything . There’s other things that could be, but that’s the most likely.
Thank you, I truly appreciate it.
Great tips, thank you.
Thank you 🙏
Amazing videos Alex! Thank you!
Glad you like them, thank you
i have the exact same zenith watch cleaning machine as you do with the original green glass jars. it was my grandfathers.
first time i've seen another one.
It still works well enough but I need to rebuild the motor and probably rewire it as well.
@@watchrepairtutorials i did all that years ago. painted it lab white. makes the green glass jars really pop. wish i could send pics.
new subscriber by the way, currently working on an Omega 1310. crazy watch.
@@lawrencetoddverrnier302 send them to my email in the about section
Thank you, great video and sharing. I am having this exact moment. Looking at the hairspring, just not willing to turn, or turning with very low amplitude then stop..... Know something must be wrong but still figuring out what ...........
Take the pallet fork out and see it the balance wheel rotates freely.
With a puffer, blow the balance wheel. It should run freely for 20 seconds or longer
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for your advise, I took off the pallet fork and gave a slight push to the barrel, the wheels spun for a second but without backlash and kinda stopped abruptly in the end. Now I remove all parts and try cleaning them again, do another inspection. Thanks so much.
Wow, another terrific video, thank you Alex! The tip on backlash was especially interesting to me, and as usual, I've got a question 😄. Why exactly do the wheels stop, then reverse? I get that seeing it allows you to know the pivots are clean and good to go, but why exactly does the direction reverse? What part is impinging that reversing force? Is it the clickspring being between teeth, so it moves the barrel back slightly in the opposite direction? That's the only thing I can think of which might reverse the direction of the power train, with the balance uninstalled.
You are getting into physics which is not my thing.
@@watchrepairtutorials Fair, I'll have to live with that mystery then heh. If you've got a moment an easier question for you: how do you like your Zenith watch cleaning machine? Aside from having four jars compared to the L&R's three, it seems like they're about the same. Do you use your food dehydrator instead of the dryer on the machine?
@@AWDTurboPOWAH I like it. The heating element works fine but I can’t control the temperature and it’s a little hotter than I like.
@@watchrepairtutorials Gotcha, seems like it's smart to get a dehydrator then, they're cheap anyway.
That's real hard to put into words that makes sense, but basically when you move the train in either direction the main spring in the barrel tenses up slightly from rest. The train reversing after you release it is the main spring returning to rest. The outside of the main spring barrel isn't directly connected to the arbour, but through the main spring itself. The very slight resistance of the arbour in the arbour hole is enough to give slight braking action to the inside of the spring, tensioning the spring when the other side (or outside of the barrel) is moved. I had to rewrite this a few times - I hope it makes sense
All the RUclipsrs offering payed subscriptions to their watchmaking courses are going to hate you for making better videos than them for free.
🤣
I know right. Now I just need Alex to offer me an apprenticeship and I will be set to go!
Record the whole take down process and take pictures on your first watch takedowns. Record print it back together.
If your get lost, it's better to have something to look back on. Not for every watch takedown, but at first, this is what i did.
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Alex why do you use a 1900 timegrapher and not the 1000? Your an an outstanding resource.
I think the only difference is the 1900 you can manually set the BPH which is not really that important and the 1900 supposedly has a better screen.
I also use etimer which is computer software. It operates like the more higher end timing machines that cost around 4-5k , but I think it cost around 600-700 including a mic stand.
Either the 1900 or 1000 would be more than efficient if you are trying to save some money
I am stumped. I am working on a Breitling with a Felsa Bidynator 1560. I did not take enough pictures of the disassembly. The barrel has gears on both top and bottom and the second wheel is a double wheel. When I install the train, it does not engage with the barrel. I have not gotten past this point on the reassembly.
Moving forwards, I would suggest slowwwwwing down.
@@watchrepairtutorials Good advice.
Lets say I put a movement back together, checking things as I go. All of the train and power wheels up to the pallet fork and balance spring are running smooth and good. You install the pallet fork and balance spring and the watch will not run more than ten seconds. Would suspect the pallet fork and or the balance wheel or something entirely different. Blowing air on the balance wheel makes it turn freely for over 5 seconds and while the watch is running the pallet fork seems to be doing it's thing. So is there a likely cause for the watch not running or should I just start over?
OK so you're saying that the train is spinning free and you have back spin and the balance will without the pallet fork installed,, the balance wheel oscillates for 20 to 30 seconds on its own when you blow air on it? So these systems are running as they should. And of course the mainspring is fully wound.
Then you add the pallet fork to the movement now the balance wheel only operates for five seconds or so.
This is an escapement fault somewhere between the pallet fork stones and the impulse jewel. There are many things it could be.
Was the movement acting like this before you took it apart or during your disassembly inspections or did this fault start after you serviced the movement?
Very educative video. Sir, can you let me know while putting the balance wheel back, in which side the pallet fork end should be - the left side end or right side end. Kindly advise. Thank you.
Just like I did it in the video. If you’re looking down on the pallet fork, it should be on the right side.
Thank you, Sir, for the prompt response. Much obliged.
I have that same cleaning machine! Any idea where I can get lids?
If you’re referring to the zenith basket cleaner, no, no idea. I would probably set up a notification on eBay for vintage zenith cleaning machines and see if anything comes up
THANKS
Hey Greg,
Looks like you are making your way through most of the videos.
great videos.
Thanks for watching Matthew
Thanks for this video Thats great detail, Do you use tools like DTI to measure backlash , endfloat , or is this just done by eye and experience.
Its visual. Backlash either is, isn't or weak. I'll assume by endfloat you mean end shake and that is visual.
What would you check if winding the watch the mainspring barrel rotates? What's supposed to hold the barrel from rotating?
When a watch is wound the ratchet wheel on top of the barrel turns the arbor in the barrel winding the mainspring. If when you wind the watch the entire barrel is moving then the arbor is not rotating as it should and you need to open and inspect the barrel.
If you are talking about the barrel is unwinding then the the click spring which is what prevents it from rotating in the wrong direction is not functioning properly.
Thanks. I realize I was asking a dumb question after I discovered that the the mainspring will rotate freely until it is connected to the train wheels. A video I find would be helpful is one where you could go through some of the details of what you have found to be the most likely solution to some of the problems. Or is it that that the movement is so delicate that a lot or areas can cause a similar problem. Thanks
@@jimrivers9965 in watchmaking everything matters. Even using too much oil on a pivot, or the wrong oil can cause differences in performance.
Hi sir, I was looking for a watches repairing and horology courses on tutorials platforms like udemy and I couldn't find one , why wouldn't you do one , a comperhensive one ?
I will look into it.
@@watchrepairtutorials thanks but if you would in one month you can do it
How important is beat error if the automatic watch is holding good time, plus or minus 3 seconds a day? Thanks.
Beat error under 1.0 ms does not affect rate. Beyond that it depends on what’s causing the beat error.
@@watchrepairtutorials Current beat error is 2.4, but the accuracy is -4 to +1 seconds per day. Pretty accurate for an NH 35. It was +25 seconds a day before I opened it up and adjusted the regulating lever, and obviously screwed up the best error.
@@gben2457 if you’re wearing it on the wrist and getting that accuracy you might just leave it for now.
@@watchrepairtutorials I wear it daily. Thanks for the advice. I'll leave it as it is.
Sir, recently I have had problems with two of my watches. One a Tissot day date and the other a Glycine day date. I find that the hour hand has lost its alignment in both these watches. While in the Glycine watch, the hour hand is between 8 & 9 at 9 o'clock, in the Tissot watch, the hour hand is standstill, but the miniute and second hands are moving. I took the Glycine watch to a local watch maker, and he set it right. But the problem resurfaced. Both these watches are, apparently, in very good condition and more than a decade old. Is it because I have not serviced them even once? Please let me have your expert opinion and advice. Thanks for all your help.
It almost sound like they are missing the dial washers.
The hour hand is connected to the hour wheel.
The hour wheel sits loose over the canon pinion with no screws to hold it in place.
The purpose of the dial washer is to put a small amount of pressure between the hour wheel and the underside of the dial to hold it in place, while still allowing the our wheel to rotate with the hr hand.
If the dial washer is missing or has been flattened the teeth from the hour wheel become disengaged from the teeth of the minute wheel which is turning it.
If they, our wheel does not go back into its position with the minute wheel, the hour hand will stop moving.
If the hour wheel comes out of contact with the minute wheel for 30 minutes and then goes back into position, the hour hand will show that it is 30 minutes slow.
Of course, there are other things that could be but more than likely this is the issue. You just need new dial washers.
Thank you so much, Sir. You are incredible. If you already have online coaching or plan to start one later, please let me know. Of course, it is on a payment basis. Thank you Sir, once again.
@@kswaminathan5439 as a matter of fact I do.
I am uploading 1 lesson a month to my matchmaking course. I have the first 2 of 20 lessons uploaded and and will have the third finished this month. A link is in the description.
Hi agen..Watch is working,bad hour hand and minute hand is not moving.Where is the Problem?
Well it the minute and hr hand are not turning the cannon pinion is either loose or not snapped down tight.
Is the center wheel rotating ?
Yes,I put the Stem and then put back the minute and hr hand and I turned around beck to 12
@@itzhaccroitoru4082 which movement is it
New York .Standart.Hunting@@watchrepairtutorials
@@itzhaccroitoru4082 Do the hands turn when setting the time ?
How many Watch Repair Lesson you have dan ?
16
i7 Lesson and sam ridings.
Meny Lesson ,and watches clinings.
Cool
Very cool
It never hurts to demagnetize the watch after assembly. Just in case.
I do it before I put it in my cleaning machine
@@watchrepairtutorials 10/4 . Thank you for your talent.
What moment is this bro
Practice makes perfect I suppose.
always practice something new on a test movement
The problem for many repairers is that they have no idea about the mechanical theory, how the watch actually works. You ask them why the lever escapement needs oil and they won't know.
I totally agree with what you're saying. Probably the biggest gap in knowledge is that of the escapement and its functioning.
When you're working on vintage watches, other problems can be somewhat obvious, but when it comes to problems within the escapement, that's where people get hung up .
To see how everything is supposed to function, first hand, is really important before tackling the problems associated with antique watches. This is the exact opposite of what I did. It wasn't fun. Many many "WTF" moments.
For what... $35 you can get a brand new st36 to learn with? No brainer! Try to see backlash on a 100 year old 7 jewel Elgin from eBay... Lol.
Exactly right Rick. For it to happen in those old girls every pivot hole has to be right, the pivots have to have the right side shake, be polished and on and on.
It’s an incredible amount of work to put them back to factory specifics.
Muy buen profesional de relojería, pero habla demasiado. Creo que hablar menos y mostrar más el trabajo sería mejor.
Excellent professional of wach repair. But talk to much. Sometimes, silent is necessary and important to show the work way, and the fans will can understand. It will be better. Thank you.
I appreciate your opinion.
Okey: If I would take the time to look at your excellent videos, I wouldn't need to ask you dumb questions.
LOL, you can always ask no problems