I'm glad that you found it useful. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have along the way and I will do my best to help where I can. Thanks for tuning in.
This video along with your 2 scroll saw videos are pure gold for those of us starting out with scroll work. The gold standard for scroll saw tutorials. Thanks 😎
Thanks for the kind words. If you ever have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Once again thanks Kenny. This is the most informative video on scroll saw blades I have watched. Right level of detail, practical explanations and clear recommendations. No one could ask for more. All I have to do now is type up my notes, print them off, laminate them and have them ready near to the saw. Brilliant!
Glad to hear that you found it useful Mike. There is always confusion when trying to choose the right blade for the job and hopefully, this show (although long) will clear up some of that confusion. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words.
This video popped after I was watching a video by Tamar. I was asking you the other day about a spiral blade, and also wondered about all other blades. A week later, this video came up. Perfect timing. Thank you.
You're very welcome Rhonda. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It is very much appreciated.
Wow Kenny, very useful information about scroll saw blades. And for me, being a Latino very easy to comprehend because you speak in a paced manner... Very nice to see your tutorials, easy to see you have lots of experience scroll sawing, GOD bless you.
Thank you for a very informative video! I am new to scroll saws, and am delighted that I can get so much useful information from youtube. As the worlds (maybe) oldest apprentice, with help such as you offer, I may be a craftsman before age takes me off the planet.
I hope that you have many more years of your apprenticeship left in you Pat. Good luck on your scrolling adventure and if you ever have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny, I was watching a few other scroll saw vids when I came across this one. I really like the way you explain things I always learn something new from you , I had no idea of the importance of the different blades and cuts they make. I think you are an excellent teacher of the craft and your dedication is un matched in my opinion. Thanks for putting in your time and your desire to help and teach people.
You can have the most expensive scroll saw in the world, but if you choose the wrong blade, it won't cut anything worthwhile. After all, it's the blade that does the cutting, not the saw. Blade selection is imperative to successful scrolling. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Thank you, that clears up a lot for me. I bought a Dewalt 788 years ago and have been scared to get started. I am disabled and am starting woodworking at 54 years old, and less likely, female, so I am different from most. I subscribed because it seems you really know a ton, and I want to learn. Thank you again, and please, keep making these. You are easy to understand.
I'm glad that you found this show to be useful for you Sandi. Scrolling is the most relaxing form of woodworking there is and once you get started, you wont be able to stop. I have two shows on the channel called "Scrolling for Beginners" and you might want to check them out. There is a ton of information in them that you might find useful. As for starting at age 54 and being female....I think it's awesome. You age has nothing to do with your ability to produce beautiful project and whether you are male of female has nothing to do with it. Some of the most incredible and artistic woodworkers are female and what really matters in the end, is how much you enjoy the hobby and the self satisfaction that it brings you. I just know that you will do fine. Good luck with your adventure and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have along the way. You can contact me via the channel's Facebook page or via email or through commenting on the show. Thanks so much for tuning in. (p.s. check out the scrolling projects playlist on the channel if you are looking for a little inspiration)
@@acutabove_woodworkings I watched the two part video on beginning scroll sawing first, and that gave me the courage to put the only blade I had, a 15, and a piece of pressboard paneling we had laying around, and finally use the saw. It was not ideal, but I was able to make straight lines and curves, over and over, until I ran out of scrap wood. I was very proud of getting past that hurdle of turning it on. I have been sewing since I was 10 and it reminds me a lot of how a sewing machine works, let the machine do the work, if you push or pull, it messes up the material. I still need a lot of practice and find a way to get more scrap wood. I bought new blades. I am already seeing a lot of ideas in my head. This has me very excited about my new hobby. I’ll be watching 😁
@@sandisslantoneverything My wife is often quite jealous of how I can sew a perfectly straight hem on her sewing machine and I contribute it to the years of scrolling. The main difference between the sewing machine and the scroll saw is that there is no blade drift on the sewing machine. It can really be challenging to control at times. Keep up the great work Sandi. I have all the faith in the world that you will master this in no time. You seem like you have your goals set. If you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I look forward to the day that pictures of your amazing projects show up in my email inbox so that they can be featured on my regular "viewer mail" segment of the show.
What a fantastic video! SO informative! the demo of spiral blade gave me a greater appreciation for the tool. I can't wait to get some new blades, dust it off and actually start using it! Thanks so much
You're very welcome and I'm glad that you found the show useful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. You can either ask here or over on my show's facebook page. Whichever you prefer. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
Another great tutorial. I'm thinking about getting my first scroll saw and your discussion about the blades will send me in the right direction. All the best to you Kenny.
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I'm glad that the show was useful to you. Knowing which blade to use when working on a project can be a very confusing things and I hope that this video will alleviate some of the confusion. Thanks for tuning in.
Glad to hear that you found the information useful Kara. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
You will do just fine Robert. I have faith in you. If, at any point in time, you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I would be more than happy to help out if I can. Good for you for learning this new area of woodworking. Thanks for tuning in to the program. If you haven't already, I do have a couple of beginner lessons on the channel. You can find them here. ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/видео.html
I Can't thank you enough for this tutorial on navigating the plethora of "Scroll Saw Minutia" that exists out there! Finally I know what the numbers mean and how to choose the right blade for the job at hand. Awesome info!
Glad that you found the show to be useful Mark. It's a long episode of the program but there is a ton of information packed in there. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
I've always wanted a scroll saw and recently acquired a lightly used DeWalt DW788. Your video has helped clarify the "confusing" range of blades available. Many thanks for the insights provided.
Glad that you found this video to be useful David. If you have any issues or any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I can't believe i spent nearly 40mins listening about Scroll Saw blades? and i don't even own a Scroll Saw ha ha ha However a very informative view and great explanation on blades, which only you Kenny are the best at doing. I think i need a coffee now after that ha ha ha. Barry (ENG)
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad that you have found the show useful and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You are very welcome Barnie and I'm glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
You're very welcome Ann Marie. I'm glad that you found the show helpful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Just got a scroll saw a couple of weeks ago. I learned so much about the maddening variety of blades. Luckily when I bought my blades I bought Olsen in PGT, reverse tooth and some skip tooth. Not knowing anything them, now I do. Thanks
Sounds like you're all set for the scrolling experience. Be sure to ask any questions that you might have while you are learning about the saw. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
So I started with scrolling about a year ago and watched this video back then. However it was a while before I did any fine work and needed specific blades and had forgotten everything you had covered. Now I am doing a lot more scrolling and have started using some very hard wood 3/4" think and was struggling with wood burning and could not figure out why. I even tried layers of packing tape on the front and back of the pieces to try and give the blade more lubrication. So now, watching this video again I have realised I am using completely the wrong blade. I am using a number 2 instead of a number 7 or 9. So thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such an easy to follow tutorial. I am confident of selecting blades now that will work much better for me. By the way, in my part of the world Olson blades are 5-10 times more expensive than the blades I am buying. I started with Olson blades so I know their quality, but the ones I am using now have very similar quality so I do not understand the price differential.
I can't speak for the price difference of the blades Doug but if you are happy with the cheaper blades you are getting, then that is all that matters. One of the most important aspects of scrolling and having it be an enjoyable process, is blade selection. Select the proper blade and you will have a wonderful, enjoyable experience. Choose the wrong blade, and you will have a frustrating and worthless experience. I'm glad to hear that this video is helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your continued scrolling.
I hope you enjoy scrolling Marty. It is (by far) the most relaxing form of woodworking. It takes practice and there are not many people who are good at it right out of the gate but if you have some patience and take the time to practice, you will have a life long hobby that you will enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and for subscribing. I appreciate your kind words and I look forward to your future comments on the show. Good luck with your new scroll saw. Please, feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
Very informative video, i'm just starting out on a scroll saw. Olson blades are sold in my area. I have noticed that the two blades that you personally use are the #2, #3 reverse blades.
I mostly use those numbers with the #3 being a mach cut blade. The other blade that gets used a LOT is the #7 PGT from OLSON for thicker stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show Jeff.
Sir, i bought a small set of blades, 10/15/18/24TPI, i tried all of them on the same wood, plywood 4-5mm but only the 24TPI was cutting easier and faster, why that? With the 10/15/18 i had no difference, they cut little difficult and slow, exactly the same all of them. Normally the 10TPI would cut faster and easier i guess or i missed something? 🙂 It's the hardness of the wood? My blades are not so good? (Pin, flat, downstroke). Is it how the scroll saw works as a machine? I used to work with my band saw (the same as yours) which cuts fast and easy, maybe the scroll saw works slower? 🤔Thanks.@@acutabove_woodworkings
@@labis6466 The teeth on a scroll saw blade are much smaller than a band saw blade and will cut much slower in general. The blades that you have purchased might not be as good a quality as some blades on the market. Normally, the higher quality blades are listed as a universal number system and it's difficult for me to say what number of blades you are using. In general, yes, the lower teeth per inch should be a much more aggressive cut but there are a lot of factors that determine that. Hardness of the wood. The glue in the plywood. Grain direction etc. It's all about finding the blade that works with the stock. With pinned blades, normally, the larger blades with the lower TPI do not have as wide of a kerf in their cut which can also slow down the cutting process. Keep in mind though, the scroll saw is not a fast cutting machine. It is meant for slower, more controlled cuttings. I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your help and the detailed answer! One more important detail came out today about the blades, i will check it out and i will compare them with other more famous brand blades. I guess i need a Ferrari Scroll Saw 🤭, i recently bought my scroll saw, i am not so happy with the speed as with my other saws (i love woodwork) but i will start to work with it and make beautiful things, it looks a great tool@@acutabove_woodworkings
You're very welcome Rose. This show is a basic guideline and is by no means written in stone. If you ever find that you are having issues with a certain sized blade cutting a certain thickness of material and a new, sharp blade doesn't work......there's nothing wrong with going up one size and trying again. Some species are just harder than others and some grain patterns are tighter. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck with your blade selections and your scrolling.
Glad that you found it to be informative John. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This is great information. I just received a scroll saw 16 inch never used it and don’t know anything about it. So this video is become very helpful, can’t wait to get started on some projects. I’d like to go out and buy a variety of blades for all projects and woods
I'm glad that you found the show to be informative Darin. I would suggest that if you haven't already, you might want to check out my two part series on scrolling for beginners. There's quite a bit of information in there that might helps you. Here's some links. ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html ruclips.net/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/видео.html As well, you might want to check out the video on scroll saw accessories which can be very helpful when first starting out on the saw. ruclips.net/video/ZNso4hITeq4/видео.html Good luck in your new adventure. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings hi. Thank you for responding so quickly, all the different types of wood and what blade to uses with which thickness, and types of woof for what blade to use. It’s almost like making a food chart, for hard wood is one type of blade and soft wood you use a different one. And for the type of projects you uses another type. So. Much to remember. Thank you again for the links. I’ll be checking them out now. I want to use a wood for outside that will last for a squirrel house besides cedar. And I’m making a store front fake facade to attach to the fence post. I’d like to paint it so it will last.
@@darinbrousil1715 I know it seems confusing right now but as you work with the saw, you will get used to just being able to pick a blade from experience and not from a chart. It takes time but you will get there.
Congratulations on the new tool John. I hope it serves you well. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
The piece you showed with the cat was beautiful. Growing up our youngest son's best buddy was his cat. The cat lived to be 19 and it broke our hearts when she died. I've got pictures of them together and if I think my skill is up to the challenge I will attempt to see if I can do as well as the master.
I hope you are successful with your project. I'd love to see it when you are done. Good luck and thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
I just bought a used scroll saw it only came with one blade.. I. Going into town tomorrow to grab a few blades.. this video was very Informative..thank you
Thanks again, followed your link from the other video and this was most helpful. I now have a selection of blades and will test out what suits me best. Also thanks for your previous response - you're the first one to ever answer on here, so thanks for that as well. I was completely impressed with the artwork on about minute 34. That's incredible.
You're very welcome Rey. I'm glad that you found it all useful. I do my best to answer every single comment that I get on the channel. While I admit that there are a few that I somehow miss, for the most part, I am able to keep up with them. Thanks for the kind words on the cuttings and for tuning in to the show. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found this video helpful as well. As always, please don't hesitate if you have any questions. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks. are Blades numbered the same way in the UK? I'll be working with 3/4 to an inch thick wood. I'm thinking nothing lighter than a no.7? Also my saw is 2 speed. Would the lower speed be for thicker timber with lower TPIs. Many thanks.
@@nervouspenguins9982 Not exactly sure how the blades are numbered in the UK, but I would think that they would be the same as they are universal numbers. As for the 3/4" stock, I would use a number 7 reverser tooth blade. I prefer a PGT blade as they are a little more aggressive but a regular #7 should do you fine. As for the speed of the saw, I would keep it to the lower speed until you get the hang of scrolling. Speed is more of a control thing. Using a higher TPI blade, in thicker stock just overheats and breaks the blade eventually. Using the correct sized blade for the correct thickness is the most important thing and the speed isn't a factor in the actual cutting. The only time that speed affects the cutting (IMO) is when you are cutting something that could melt (like plexiglass) or something that requires slower speeds such as metal cutting. Other than that, feel free to cut at whichever speed you are comfortable with. I hope this helps.
@@acutabove_woodworkings success. Mounted a no.7 blade and produced a letter P, A and E (familys' initials) and a wonky easter bunny. Blade jumped out a few times so a lot to learn about tensioning etc but I'm on my way. Thanks again. P
The variables of the materials you just mentions are endless. Plywood is largely varied in blades sizes according to thickness, the number of plys, the species of the plywood and how intricate and tight your design for cutting it. Hardwoods are also governed by the same variable but the species plays a huge part because the size blade you would use on walnut, would never cut through Purple Heart. Acrylics can be tricky and again, thickness plays a part in your blade selection but also, the speed of your saw also plays a huge part because heat is a contributing factor in getting a clean cut. Too much speed with a larger blade will create large pockets that melt back together, leaving a poor cut quality and a mess to clean up while using a smaller blade with too much speed will result in melting the acrylic immediately after cutting it, causing the blade to jam and possibly break. Metals are another completely different story. Thickness plays a huge part but for the most part, the blades that are used are a high TPI and they are run at extremely low speed to avoid friction and heat, and allow the gullets of the blade to clear the metal filing from the cut kerf. Basically what I'm saying is that there is a lot of experimenting that goes on with scroll but using the basic knowledge of this video will give you a starting point as to what blade to choose and what to expect from it. During the cut, if you know the signs to look out for, such as burning the wood, having to apply too much pressure to cut etc, you can adjust your blade choice accordingly and eventually it becomes second nature. It's pretty rare for me, after almost 30 years of scrolling, that I choose the wrong blade for the job. It's all about experience and knowing what to look out for and how to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad that you found the shows to be useful Bobby. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions at all. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Holy smoke, Kenny.....that scroll saw project you showed is an awesome piece, and I applaud both your skill and your patience!! Oddly, a scroll saw (my grandfather's old belt-driven beast!) was probably the first power tool I ever used, at about age nine or ten (back in the fifties!), but the one I know the least about, in terms of details like blade selection! That Excalibur saw is a beautiful tool, too. To start, I just got myself an inexpensive Ryobi, but it seems to serve my purposes OK...at least for now. it's variable speed and accepts plain end blades, so I'm free to select blades pretty freely, unlike a lot of other inexpensive saws (that I found only use pinned blades). I took your advice, though, and added a foot switch which has made things much more convenient. Thanks for clearing away much of the blade selection 'fog.' I'm in the midst of a project using 1/8" stock. The Olson spiral blades do make it easier (cutting out names written in cursive) but you are absolutely correct: I spend a lot of time with sanding sticks in my hand! LOL When I have more time, I'll get braver and try something similar using 'conventional' blades. Thanks again...and I look forward to your next video. :-)
Hang in there Norm. The scroll saw isn't something that comes naturally and it take a lot of practice to get it right. While spiral blades do have their place, for lettering in 1/8" stock, you would probably get better results from a #2 reverse tooth blade. While you edged may not be perfect, the amount of sanding that you need to do will be minimized. The perfect (or close to perfect) edges will come with practice. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it very much. If you haven't already, you might want to check out the two part series on scrolling for beginners here on the channel. It might give you some pointers on control and learning the craft. ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
You will find that after a while, it becomes second nature. You will also find that you gravitate to a small handful of blades that you use. Good luck on your new adventure and if you ever have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in
Just opened my first scroll saw and was feeling a bit lost. Thanks for all your help! I'll be sifting through your channel. Mostly 1/2 inch stock, think I'll grab some #7 PGT reverse tooth blades...
Hey Dave. For 1/2" stock, if you are getting some PGT blades, you might be just fine with a #3. Those blades cut really well. The #7 will be fine for the cut and will also be good for 3/4" stock as well so the #3's are not a requirement, but it's always nice to have extra blades in your arsenal. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in.
I'm so lucky I found your channel your the swiss army guy of blades love the help this video did for me and yes you filled this noodle thanks for this video I'm new to scroll saw work and still learning on what blades did what and now you have help me with it thanks
You're very welcome. If you ever aren't sure, I'm always available to answer any questions that you might have. When I first started scrolling, there was no such thing as the internet and the only way to learn was by books or practice. I'm only too happy to help you out while you are learning to scroll. Feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video, nice that you take your time and explain everything clearly. Just about to buy my first saw and this has been a huge help. Many thanks Kenny and greetings from the UK. Subscribed!
Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber Hugo. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions at all. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hiya Kenny, actually, I do have a quick question if you don`t mind. I don`t have a lot of money to spend on my first saw, and I`d like to try it for a while anyway to see if I get really into it before shelling out on a Hegner or similar. Problem is, there are plenty of cheap ones on the market in the UK, IE under £300, but every single one of them seems to use the same dreadful allen bolt clamp adapters for pinless blades, the bottom one drops off the hook when the blade it released and the top needs a tool and a lot of fiddling about every time. Any idea if anyone makes a budget saw with quick release clamp? Or an effective mod? Any suggestions much appreciated.
@@hugostare8695 I'm not too familiar with the brands or saws that are available in the UK. I did find this one, www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tools-machinery-scroll-saws-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-rotary-shaft-package-rutlands+dk7170#nogo which seems to be a fairly good entry level saw according to the specification, but I can't tell in the picture if it has the blade adapter that you are complaining about. It might be worth looking into. Barring that, you really can't go wrong with a DeWalt, DW788 scroll saw as an entry level saw. (if they are available in your area). I hope this helps.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks Kenny, much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to look these up. Rutland saw uses the hideous clamp adapter arrangement unfortunately, and yep, the Dwalt is very desirable and available here but well out of my price range, around £700. But, I had a spot of luck today, picked up this locally, second hand, light use, couple of years old, for £300! Think I`m going to enjoy this.. www.axminstertools.com/axminster-trade-series-ex-16-scroll-saw-101771
@@hugostare8695 Looks like you have a nice saw there. It is very similar to the Excalibur EX-21. You should be happy with that. Good luck with your adventure in learning scrolling. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you Kenny. Exactly what I was looking for. So many just explain the different type of blades but never actually tell you what you need to get started. Really appreciated the tip about if the saw is cutting too fast or too slow then change blade size. I've ordered the scroll saw was now trying to work out which blades to order to get started! Thanks again. I've taken notes and shall no doubt return! By the way the video I watched before this was a really quiet one and I'd had to turn the sound right up!! Your intro music about blew the windows out!
Sorry about your window Richard. This is an older video and the volume on the intro has since been reduced because of several complaints. I'm glad to hear that the show was useful to you and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for clarification. Your work is amazing! You must be a very patient person... If I am working with wood from 2 mm thin to 1.5 cm thick...some soft and some hard...what 3 blades should I start out with. I know I want a reverse blade for minimal sanding. I will be potentially be making replacement pieces for inlay, name plates (cutting the names out of the middle), cutting out whole words thick enough to stand up on their own and probably jewellery pieces...oh and jewellery boxes... What is the make and model of the small accordian hose you have attached to your saw please?
The main blades that I would suggest are a #2 for thinner work, a #3 PGT for cuts up to 1/2" thick and a #7 PGT for cuts 1/2" and over. I hope this helps. The according air hose doesn't have a brand name. It is a part of the saw. Most scroll saws will come with a blower tube of some kind. Mine is just an accordion style. I hope this helps. Glad that you found the blade video. Thanks for tuning in.
You're very welcome Charles. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
TY for a fine production. At age 70, I am getting into scrolling so that I can SIT DOWN and still accomplish something. My chainsaw days are almost over.
It's never too late to learn Glen. Good for you for taking the initiative to try something new. Be sure to check out my videos "Scrolling For Beginners" Parts 1 and 2. They might help you along with some of the frustrations associated with learning something new. Thanks so much for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
You are very welcome Carlo. I'm glad that you enjoyed the shows. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
47 thumbs up after 1.1k views - Wow that's a tough crowd! That was one terrific explanation. Thanks for taking the time to do that for us all Kenny. Already ordered the blades before I've bought the saw. Will start with the Ryobi, because here in Australia the next level is Au$1,000 and the Ryobi is $129. If I stick to using it long enough to be frustrated by it, then I'll invest in the better ones.
Sounds like a good plan Howard. If you haven't already, you should consider checking out some of my beginner videos on the scroll saw. One of which is the buyer's guide and the beginner lessons on scrolling. As always on my channel, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
I already did, before I got to this one. However, I don't remember viewing the buyers guide - will search. However, there is very little range here. Ryobi, economy jet and then it's next stop Excalibur loookalike. Must say, your presentation is enough to excite the interest of anyone remotely considering the hobby.
Thanks for the compliment Howard. Here is the link to the buyer's guide if you are interested. ruclips.net/video/kBCdGKTaQms/видео.html Just for a little information, don't get your heart set on an Excalibur scrollsaw as the design and the rights to it have been sold and they are now called the Excelsior. I have been informed by the old manufacturer that the new company is using the same specifications that Excalibur used to. Either way, I've also heard good things about the Jet. Feel free to ask questions along the way. I wish I had someone to teach or help me as I was learning but the internet wasn't a thing back then.
I would rather give the extra information than to make a quick little compressed video that provides no real information. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show Norman and for taking the time to leave a comment.
Another great video for scrolling. I am buying a second scroll saw before I even get started because its going for cheap. I will check out your other videos for tips. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show and subscribing. I appreciate the support.
Thank you for this video I am just starting and didn't know how to choose or if I need to change the blade on my saw I just got used. Very informative video.
Blade selection is probably the most important factor when it comes to good results on the saw. I hope you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
@@terrygabrielson5598 Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber. I hope that you will find many other projects and episodes to enjoy. Feel free to comment or ask any questions that you may have at any point in time. Fridays, are the woodworking episodes of the show and Tuesdays can be anything from tool reviews, to rants, to resin work or welding....basically, whatever I feel like doing that day. I hope you enjoy the channel. Thanks for subscribing.
Glad that you liked it. Blade selection is one of the keys to getting good results on a scroll saw. After a while, it becomes second nature to choose the right blade and at first, there is a lot of experimenting to see what blade cuts best but once you get it, it's very satisfying to be able to pick the right blade immediately when cutting your stock. Thanks for tuning in.
You're very welcome Jean. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi my name is Robert and I never used a scroll saw before and I just ordered one but you were talking about wood splitters, I know from experience that when drilling a hole in wood you get splinters on the bottom of the wood, But if you put another piece of wood on the bottom of the wood you are drilling you do not get any splinters. Try that with a scroll saw and see how it works.
The method does work for greatly reducing the burring on the back side of the board Robert but unfortunately, it also increases the thickness of your cut, putting more stress on the blade and on the saw and on the operator. It does work though. Thanks for tuning in.
I just picked up a used Craftsman scroll saw. It is a few years old but it is in mint shape, not a scratch. It also appears to work fine. I do not have the manual that comes with it. Is it safe to assume the blade length is 5 inches ? That seems to be the standard size for most scroll saws. The saw I bought did not come with a blade and it was sitting in a storage unit for a few years. Any maintenance (oiling and such) I should do to it before firing it up ? For $25 I found it hard to pass up, it powers up and the speed control is bang on
Older scroll saws had a different length blade but it would have to be very old for that. I would say that if the scroll saw taking un-pinned blades, then the chances are pretty good that they are a 5" length. It sounds like you've got yourself a great deal. Some scroll saws (like the Ryobi) have bearings that need to be oiled every so often. I would suggest googling the model number and seeing if you can find a manual. In most cases though, scroll saws are plug and play with no real lubrication needed. If you are concerned, you can always put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on anything that moves. It wont hurt the machine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have a scroll saw that I sometimes use for cutting acrylic tubing. The tubing has a 14mm OD and a 1.8mm wall thickness. What would be the perfect blade to use that would provide the smoothest burr-free finish? Thanks.
A burr free finish on acrylic tubing is a hard thing to accomplish. The problem is that there is more than one plane being cut during the operation which creates more than one area for burrs to occur. I would suggest something in the neighbourhood of a #5 PGT blade and reducing the speed of your saw to prevent overheating and melting the acrylic. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show
Hi, question, can a flat blade be used in an old scroll saw that has a pin holder ? All of the blades that I have used have the pin but apparently they don’t come in a smaller size blade? Thanks, I’m confused about what I can use.😜
If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1 are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
I never knew there was so much variety, but you made it easier to understand. So, a 2R should be fine for medium hardness 1/" balsa wood. Do you have a suggestion for 1/2" balsa wing ribs (gentle curves)?
A 2R will be perfect for 1/4" balsa and for 1/2" balsa, I would consider a #3 PGT blade to be more than adequate. I hope this helps John. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi I have a question, I just ordered my first scroll saw, I never used one before. My scroll saw will cut from 550 to 1600 strokes per minute, should I cut faster on thinner wood and shower on thicker wood? Or just the reverse?
It's not a matter of cutting faster or slower according to thickness. Speed is all about control. If you can cut the wood at a higher speed and still have control, then it will be fine. If you are having issues with controlling your cuts, slow the speed down. I usually recommend that beginner start with their saw at 50% power and then slowly adjust up or down depending on how well they are controlling their cuts. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you for the advice. I haven't received my scroll saw yet it will be here Wednesday, but I will know where to start. THANK YOU VERY VERY VERY MUCH!
I'm glad that you liked it Michele. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You are very welcome Stephen. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I will do my best to help out. Thanks for tuning in.
What category of work are your main ones for using the scroll saw rather than a band saw. I saw where a fellow was using a 1/8 inch blade on a bandsaw and doing some intricate cuts. I ask this because I dont have a scroll saw and my 1954 bandsaw needs to be replaced...I wont be buying both, but if I were to buy a scroll saw, excalibur, king and pegas are the ones I am looking at. Thanks for your videos.
I use the scroll saw for everything Drake. There are so many projects that the scroll saw has a part in. When I think of all the processes that I use a scroll saw for, there is only one that couldn't be done on a bandsaw and that would be fretwork. Fretwork is the main use for my scroll saw and I just find that its versatility over a bandsaw is huge. For the most part, the cuts on a bandsaw can be quite rough whereas with a scroll saw, the cuts can be smooth enough that sanding isn't even required on the cut edges. Even with a 1/8" blade, the radius of cuts (while they can be quite tight) still cannot compare with the right radii that are possible with a scroll saw. With a scroll saw, you can rotate a piece of stock 180 degrees and follow back through the cut you just made. With a bandsaw, that just isn't possible. A lot of bandsaws will not accept a 1/8" blade and a 3/16" is the smallest that they will accept so that might be something that you want to consider as well. Not knowing what you main purpose is for these saws, it's pretty hard to make a suggestion. I will say that in my opinion, a bandsaw can never replace a scroll saw and a scroll saw can never replace a band saw. They both have processes that they excel at and although most processes are possible on both saws, the results and ease of cutting will shine on one saw over the other. You can re-saw on a scroll saw but only to a two inch thickness. You can re-saw on a bandsaw to a much thicker depth, but you can't get the fine cutting that you can on a scroll saw. Cutting smaller pieces on a bandsaw with a smaller blade is possible but it is also more dangerous than using a scroll saw. That constantly rotating blade of the bandsaw takes a nasty bite if you get too close whereas a scroll saw just gives you a "kiss". LOL. I hope this has helped a little. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings while I am impressed with the end product of fretwork and the amount of time consumed doing that fretwork, I find fretwork a bit lacey.
@@lmallard3788 I can understand that completely. You have to realize though that fretwork is the process of cutting multiple holes to form a design, pattern or picture. The cat cutting that you were inquiring about (leopard) is also considered fretwork and I don't find it Lacey at all. With that being said, I've seen some fretwork that looks like it belongs on Grandma's end table with an accent lamp and some coasters. Now THAT's Lacey. LOL.
Another cracking video which made tons of sense about the bewildering subject of which blades LOL I've bought some pinless 28 TPI for 1/4 " hardboard hope I've made the right choice Kenny ? Thanks again .
The blade that you purchased (28 TPI) is a universal #2 blade and should be just perfect for 1/4" MDF or hardboard. You've made the right choice. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
There are plenty of scroll saw related videos on the channel. If you go to the main page of my channel and look at the playlists, you will find one that is for scroll saw work. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck with your scrolling.
The universal blade numbers and the TPI are the same on the blades regardless of what you are cutting. There are not different blades for hard woods or soft woods. What is important is that you choose the correct blade for the species that you are cutting. It is a combination of thickness and harness that will determine what blade you use. For 1/2" thick pine (for example) you can probably get away with a #3 blade but would have to step it up to a #5 for 1/2" thick maple. I hope this helps a little Douglas. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
No, not unless the machine specifically states that it can take either style blade. If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1 are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for giving me this info, I think I will just purchase a new machine, do you have any experience with the “glow forge”? They look like they work very well but they are expensive! Have a great evening 😋
Glad to hear that you found it informative Jim. It's a lot of information to digest all at once, but truth be told, as you get into scrolling more and more, you will find that there are only about 3 blade sizes that you will reach for and those 3 will incorporate everything that you do. Everyone's blade sizes are different depending on the style of their cutting. For me, it's either a #2, #3 or a #7. It's pretty rare that I reach for anything else. Good luck with your scrolling and thanks for tuning in.
I got them at Lee Valley Brian. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/storage-and-organization/containers/32173-shop-storage-tubes I hope it helps. Thanks for tuning in.
All of the information on what blades to use on the different thicknesses of stock, is contained in the video. However, the measurements that I provide are all in imperial measures. If I were to cut 10mm thick plywood, I would start off with a #3 PGT reverse tooth blade and if it was struggling, I would upgrade to a #5. Depending on the intricacies or your pattern, you may not want to go any higher than that. But if the pattern is basic and you want to cut it quickly, a #7 will cut it like a hot knife though butter. I hope this helps Jordi. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Purple Heart is an extremely hard species Raho and while the species does help in determining what blade to use, one of the main factors will be the thickness of the Purple Heart. For (up to) 3/4" thickness I would suggest a #7 PGT reverse tooth blade. This will still be a tough cut in 3/4" thickness of Purple Heart and you will have to take it slow but it will cut it. For 1/2" thick or less, it will have no issues. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Brilliant descriptions, very understandable and have helped me a great deal. Coupe of questions for you if you don't mind.......If you were doing very intricate work in say thickish stock of 0.75" to an 1" what blade would you go to? Also, I understand beefier blades will all cut thinner stuff but would I struggle to turn/scroll on tight turns with a bigger blade? I bought an old secondhand Hegner this week and need all the help I can get not ever done any scrolling before.
A large part of this answer relies on the species of the wood as the choice for maple may not necessarily be the same for poplar. Either way, If I were to cut somewhat intricate work in 3/4" thick material, I would most likely go with an Olson #7 PGT blade. I should do the trick. Using larger blades can make tight turns a little more difficult. You wont be turning quickly that's for sure but as long as you take your time and cut slowly, you should have no issues making tight turns or corners. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I've never heard of anyone using this method but I can see where it might work. The masking tape might act as a sacrificial "board" that would support the back of the piece during cutting. You might be on to something. I will have to give this a try. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question.
If you could put a musical note or sound to how much tension is optimal for most blades what sound would you say it might be? In my experience over the last 10 yrs that average tone sound is equivalent to about notes of "A," "B," or "C" depending on the thinness of the blade - thicker blades more towards the note of "A," whereas the skinnier they are, more towards the higher note of "C." Thoughts?
I have never really thought about the tension of the blade in relation to musical notes John. I have thought of it more in terms of tone. Much the same way that a improperly tensioned guitar string will yield a dead and muffled tone, a scroll saw blade will do the same. You want a higher pitched clean tone coming from the blade when you pluck it. As long as the tone is of a higher pitch and clean, the note itself isn't that important. Thickness of the blades and different materials, teeth counts, gullets, skip tooth vs reverse tooth etc will all change the "notes" of the tensioned blade and you will end up driving yourself crazy trying to relate to a note. Try for a clean tone and go from there. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for that reply. I am a guitarist. So I suppose the musical note immediately came into mind since finding that sweet spot for sound depending on the blade size is how I know when the tension is good if not just right. Of course an additional check I use is to see how much the blade bends back from the vertical while the blade is cutting (using a normal amount of pressure) so that when cutting the wood, the blade barely moves backwards as the wood is pressed into it to cut. Too much bend in my experience means the blade needs a little more tension. I hope that is also something you look for once you feel the blade is tensioned just right?@@acutabove_woodworkings
@@johnhuggins5021 Sounds like you are doing it right already. Another thing to watch out for is curved cuts (top to bottom) on thicker stock. This can be caused by poor tension. I understand completely the need or desire to get the perfect tension but rest assured that the scroll saw is very forgiving in this department. I'd love to see some of your work some time.
Sure. Here's one of my recent intarsia projects. 20231017_125742.jpg If this jpg file does not work pls send me an email address or describe how I can post it here.
Thank you, thank you very much. I feel that I now have a good understanding about blades. Just started scrolling at the age of 68. Also what kind of plywood wood would you choice. Is the baltic plywood better to use? How well would very hard wood like purple heart cut and what blade would you use for these hard woods. Thank you, Ken
I don't normally scroll plywood Ken and prefer to scroll solid stock. It can be a little more challenging but I enjoy the challenge. Baltic birch is a good choice though if you are interested in plywood. It's strong, clear and light coloured. It also takes a stain fairly well. As for Purple Heart, that's a tough one. Purpleheart is like scrolling stone only harder. LOL. It would depend on the thickness of the Purple Heart and the intricacies of the design but you should be able to scroll 1/2" thick Purple Heart with a number 7 PGT blade without issue. A lot depends on the thickness of the stock, the speed of the saw, the speed of your feed rate and how tight you are turning the corners. I hope this helps a little. Feel free to ask any questions you might have while learning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Ken, interesting show. I find that the majority of the time I use either a 2 or 3 reverse tooth and once in awhile a 7. You can probably guess that most of my work is in thinner stock. I have yet to try spiral blades but you make me want to give them a try. I am curious about the fretwork you showed, where did you get the pattern and what kind of wood did you use? It looked great. Thanks for the informative show. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
That patterns are of various sources Paul. Some, I make myself and others are from magazines etc. The wood that my scrolling is cut from is 1/4" thick solid oak and it really is a challenge to cut the intricate pieces in a coarse stock like oak without breaking pieces. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in my friend. It's great to hear from you.
Thank you so much for this, picking up my DeWalt tomorrow and was trying to decide which blades to grab for starters. I am in BC Canada and Olson is common. I know this video is a couple years old now, but I have their selection chart and do not see a #3 reverse, only in the Mach and a couple other specialty blades or did I missing something?
I'm not sure if OLSON sells a normal #3 blade as I only use their Mach blades in that number. But I will tell you that they Mach blades are incredible. They are a little more expensive but they give an incredibly clean and almost polished cut to the stock. For normal blades such as reverse tooth, a number 5 blade would work just as well in place of a number 3 as the kerf is similar and the blade size is also similar. I hope this helps. If you have any questions along the way Dawn, you can feel free to contact me via the channel's Facebook page or through email and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Of course, you can always reach me by commenting on one of my shows. Thanks for tuning in.
You're very welcome Russell. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I am 75 and new at this and you have helped me more than you know Thank you very much.
That's the whole purpose of this RUclips channel....to help people. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
This was a very clear explanation, especially for me as a beginner within scroll sawing. Thx!
I'm glad that you found it useful. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have along the way and I will do my best to help where I can. Thanks for tuning in.
This video along with your 2 scroll saw videos are pure gold for those of us starting out with scroll work. The gold standard for scroll saw tutorials. Thanks 😎
Thanks for the kind words. If you ever have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Once again thanks Kenny. This is the most informative video on scroll saw blades I have watched. Right level of detail, practical explanations and clear recommendations. No one could ask for more. All I have to do now is type up my notes, print them off, laminate them and have them ready near to the saw. Brilliant!
Glad to hear that you found it useful Mike. There is always confusion when trying to choose the right blade for the job and hopefully, this show (although long) will clear up some of that confusion. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words.
This video popped after I was watching a video by Tamar. I was asking you the other day about a spiral blade, and also wondered about all other blades. A week later, this video came up. Perfect timing. Thank you.
This is a very old video Scott, but you're very welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
Just ordered my first scroll saw. This is all new to me, so I will come back here to review before buying blades. THANK YOU !!
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found the video to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
This is possibly the best teaching video I've ever watched. So much detailed info given. So helpful. Thank you.
You're very welcome Rhonda. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It is very much appreciated.
Wow Kenny, very useful information about scroll saw blades. And for me, being a Latino very easy to comprehend because you speak in a paced manner... Very nice to see your tutorials, easy to see you have lots of experience scroll sawing, GOD bless you.
I'm glad that you found the show to be useful Jorge. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for a very informative video! I am new to scroll saws, and am delighted that I can get so much useful information from youtube. As the worlds (maybe) oldest apprentice, with help such as you offer, I may be a craftsman before age takes me off the planet.
I hope that you have many more years of your apprenticeship left in you Pat. Good luck on your scrolling adventure and if you ever have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny, I was watching a few other scroll saw vids when I came across this one. I really like the way you explain things I always learn something new from you , I had no idea of the importance of the different blades and cuts they make. I think you are an excellent teacher of the craft and your dedication is un matched in my opinion. Thanks for putting in your time and your desire to help and teach people.
You can have the most expensive scroll saw in the world, but if you choose the wrong blade, it won't cut anything worthwhile. After all, it's the blade that does the cutting, not the saw. Blade selection is imperative to successful scrolling. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Thank you, that clears up a lot for me. I bought a Dewalt 788 years ago and have been scared to get started. I am disabled and am starting woodworking at 54 years old, and less likely, female, so I am different from most. I subscribed because it seems you really know a ton, and I want to learn. Thank you again, and please, keep making these. You are easy to understand.
I'm glad that you found this show to be useful for you Sandi. Scrolling is the most relaxing form of woodworking there is and once you get started, you wont be able to stop. I have two shows on the channel called "Scrolling for Beginners" and you might want to check them out. There is a ton of information in them that you might find useful. As for starting at age 54 and being female....I think it's awesome. You age has nothing to do with your ability to produce beautiful project and whether you are male of female has nothing to do with it. Some of the most incredible and artistic woodworkers are female and what really matters in the end, is how much you enjoy the hobby and the self satisfaction that it brings you. I just know that you will do fine. Good luck with your adventure and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have along the way. You can contact me via the channel's Facebook page or via email or through commenting on the show. Thanks so much for tuning in. (p.s. check out the scrolling projects playlist on the channel if you are looking for a little inspiration)
@@acutabove_woodworkings I watched the two part video on beginning scroll sawing first, and that gave me the courage to put the only blade I had, a 15, and a piece of pressboard paneling we had laying around, and finally use the saw. It was not ideal, but I was able to make straight lines and curves, over and over, until I ran out of scrap wood. I was very proud of getting past that hurdle of turning it on. I have been sewing since I was 10 and it reminds me a lot of how a sewing machine works, let the machine do the work, if you push or pull, it messes up the material. I still need a lot of practice and find a way to get more scrap wood. I bought new blades. I am already seeing a lot of ideas in my head. This has me very excited about my new hobby. I’ll be watching 😁
@@sandisslantoneverything My wife is often quite jealous of how I can sew a perfectly straight hem on her sewing machine and I contribute it to the years of scrolling. The main difference between the sewing machine and the scroll saw is that there is no blade drift on the sewing machine. It can really be challenging to control at times. Keep up the great work Sandi. I have all the faith in the world that you will master this in no time. You seem like you have your goals set. If you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I look forward to the day that pictures of your amazing projects show up in my email inbox so that they can be featured on my regular "viewer mail" segment of the show.
I thought you say you bought a dewalt unit 700+ years ago. You must be old 😂😂😂. kidding
What a fantastic video! SO informative! the demo of spiral blade gave me a greater appreciation for the tool. I can't wait to get some new blades, dust it off and actually start using it!
Thanks so much
You're very welcome and I'm glad that you found the show useful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. You can either ask here or over on my show's facebook page. Whichever you prefer. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
Another great tutorial. I'm thinking about getting my first scroll saw and your discussion about the blades will send me in the right direction. All the best to you Kenny.
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I'm glad that the show was useful to you. Knowing which blade to use when working on a project can be a very confusing things and I hope that this video will alleviate some of the confusion. Thanks for tuning in.
This information was exactly what I was looking for!
Glad to hear that you found the information useful Kara. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Very informative. Glad I come across this one. I’m just getting started in Scrollsaw at 77yrs old. HEIP,
You will do just fine Robert. I have faith in you. If, at any point in time, you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I would be more than happy to help out if I can. Good for you for learning this new area of woodworking. Thanks for tuning in to the program. If you haven't already, I do have a couple of beginner lessons on the channel. You can find them here. ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html
and
ruclips.net/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/видео.html
I Can't thank you enough for this tutorial on navigating the plethora of "Scroll Saw Minutia" that exists out there! Finally I know what the numbers mean and how to choose the right blade for the job at hand. Awesome info!
Glad that you found the show to be useful Mark. It's a long episode of the program but there is a ton of information packed in there. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
I've always wanted a scroll saw and recently acquired a lightly used DeWalt DW788. Your video has helped clarify the "confusing" range of blades available. Many thanks for the insights provided.
Glad that you found this video to be useful David. If you have any issues or any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I can't believe i spent nearly 40mins listening about Scroll Saw blades? and i don't even own a Scroll Saw ha ha ha
However a very informative view and great explanation on blades, which only you Kenny are the best at doing.
I think i need a coffee now after that ha ha ha.
Barry (ENG)
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Now that's dedication to the show Barry. Glad that you were able to tune in and I hope that you got your coffee.
I just did the same. I’m about to purchase the dewalt scroll scroll at grizzly.com. They running a sale.
Brilliant! I often find myself listening to some in-depth video on a subject I have no interest in or know anything about. Ha ha :)
You should. Doing fretwork is so therapeutic.
You are one great teacher. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom.
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad that you have found the show useful and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Must watch video!. The most helpful, lots of needed information given in small chunks. Fantastic, thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome Barnie and I'm glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you for this video, i just purchased my first scroll saw, this was very helpful!
You're very welcome Ann Marie. I'm glad that you found the show helpful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Just got a scroll saw a couple of weeks ago. I learned so much about the maddening variety of blades. Luckily when I bought my blades I bought Olsen in PGT, reverse tooth and some skip tooth. Not knowing anything them, now I do. Thanks
Sounds like you're all set for the scrolling experience. Be sure to ask any questions that you might have while you are learning about the saw. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
I had a delta scroll saw in 1953 it was nice I am now going to get a new model thanks for your help
I hope you like the new model Al. Good luck with your scrolling an thank you for tuning in to the show.
Great Video ! You have such a clarity in your concepts and deliberations ! 👌👌👍👍
I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
I am so glad that I came across your video tutorial. Learnt heaps, thanks.
You're very welcome Patrick. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
So I started with scrolling about a year ago and watched this video back then. However it was a while before I did any fine work and needed specific blades and had forgotten everything you had covered. Now I am doing a lot more scrolling and have started using some very hard wood 3/4" think and was struggling with wood burning and could not figure out why. I even tried layers of packing tape on the front and back of the pieces to try and give the blade more lubrication. So now, watching this video again I have realised I am using completely the wrong blade. I am using a number 2 instead of a number 7 or 9. So thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such an easy to follow tutorial. I am confident of selecting blades now that will work much better for me. By the way, in my part of the world Olson blades are 5-10 times more expensive than the blades I am buying. I started with Olson blades so I know their quality, but the ones I am using now have very similar quality so I do not understand the price differential.
I can't speak for the price difference of the blades Doug but if you are happy with the cheaper blades you are getting, then that is all that matters. One of the most important aspects of scrolling and having it be an enjoyable process, is blade selection. Select the proper blade and you will have a wonderful, enjoyable experience. Choose the wrong blade, and you will have a frustrating and worthless experience. I'm glad to hear that this video is helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your continued scrolling.
Thank you so much, this is a wealth of information for a newbie in a scroll saw like me !!
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
I subscribed after watching this. Thanks for all your time and trouble to make these videos for us. I'm supposed to get my scroll saw today.
I hope you enjoy scrolling Marty. It is (by far) the most relaxing form of woodworking. It takes practice and there are not many people who are good at it right out of the gate but if you have some patience and take the time to practice, you will have a life long hobby that you will enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and for subscribing. I appreciate your kind words and I look forward to your future comments on the show. Good luck with your new scroll saw. Please, feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
Very informative video, i'm just starting out on a scroll saw. Olson blades are sold in my area. I have noticed that the two blades that you personally use are the #2, #3 reverse blades.
I mostly use those numbers with the #3 being a mach cut blade. The other blade that gets used a LOT is the #7 PGT from OLSON for thicker stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show Jeff.
Nice video Sir, very useful information. Thank you so much for sharing!
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
Sir, i bought a small set of blades, 10/15/18/24TPI, i tried all of them on the same wood, plywood 4-5mm but only the 24TPI was cutting easier and faster, why that? With the 10/15/18 i had no difference, they cut little difficult and slow, exactly the same all of them. Normally the 10TPI would cut faster and easier i guess or i missed something? 🙂 It's the hardness of the wood? My blades are not so good? (Pin, flat, downstroke). Is it how the scroll saw works as a machine? I used to work with my band saw (the same as yours) which cuts fast and easy, maybe the scroll saw works slower? 🤔Thanks.@@acutabove_woodworkings
@@labis6466 The teeth on a scroll saw blade are much smaller than a band saw blade and will cut much slower in general. The blades that you have purchased might not be as good a quality as some blades on the market. Normally, the higher quality blades are listed as a universal number system and it's difficult for me to say what number of blades you are using. In general, yes, the lower teeth per inch should be a much more aggressive cut but there are a lot of factors that determine that. Hardness of the wood. The glue in the plywood. Grain direction etc. It's all about finding the blade that works with the stock. With pinned blades, normally, the larger blades with the lower TPI do not have as wide of a kerf in their cut which can also slow down the cutting process. Keep in mind though, the scroll saw is not a fast cutting machine. It is meant for slower, more controlled cuttings. I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your help and the detailed answer! One more important detail came out today about the blades, i will check it out and i will compare them with other more famous brand blades. I guess i need a Ferrari Scroll Saw 🤭, i recently bought my scroll saw, i am not so happy with the speed as with my other saws (i love woodwork) but i will start to work with it and make beautiful things, it looks a great tool@@acutabove_woodworkings
This was the best blade class ever! I feel so confident in choosing now... Thank you for your help!
You're very welcome Rose. This show is a basic guideline and is by no means written in stone. If you ever find that you are having issues with a certain sized blade cutting a certain thickness of material and a new, sharp blade doesn't work......there's nothing wrong with going up one size and trying again. Some species are just harder than others and some grain patterns are tighter. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck with your blade selections and your scrolling.
This video should be in the packaging of every new scroll saw.Just recently into scrolling.found this brilliantly informative.thanks Kenny
Glad that you found it to be informative John. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This is great information. I just received a scroll saw 16 inch never used it and don’t know anything about it. So this video is become very helpful, can’t wait to get started on some projects. I’d like to go out and buy a variety of blades for all projects and woods
I'm glad that you found the show to be informative Darin. I would suggest that if you haven't already, you might want to check out my two part series on scrolling for beginners. There's quite a bit of information in there that might helps you. Here's some links.
ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/видео.html
As well, you might want to check out the video on scroll saw accessories which can be very helpful when first starting out on the saw.
ruclips.net/video/ZNso4hITeq4/видео.html
Good luck in your new adventure. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings hi. Thank you for responding so quickly, all the different types of wood and what blade to uses with which thickness, and types of woof for what blade to use. It’s almost like making a food chart, for hard wood is one type of blade and soft wood you use a different one. And for the type of projects you uses another type. So. Much to remember. Thank you again for the links. I’ll be checking them out now.
I want to use a wood for outside that will last for a squirrel house besides cedar. And I’m making a store front fake facade to attach to the fence post. I’d like to paint it so it will last.
@@darinbrousil1715 I know it seems confusing right now but as you work with the saw, you will get used to just being able to pick a blade from experience and not from a chart. It takes time but you will get there.
Just bought my first scroll saw.This was very helpful .Thanks
Congratulations on the new tool John. I hope it serves you well. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
The piece you showed with the cat was beautiful. Growing up our youngest son's best buddy was his cat. The cat lived to be 19 and it broke our hearts when she died. I've got pictures of them together and if I think my skill is up to the challenge I will attempt to see if I can do as well as the master.
I hope you are successful with your project. I'd love to see it when you are done. Good luck and thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
Fantastic and very helpful videos. Thank you for sharing.
You're very welcome Cage. I'm glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in.
I just bought a used scroll saw it only came with one blade.. I. Going into town tomorrow to grab a few blades.. this video was very Informative..thank you
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in
Thanks again, followed your link from the other video and this was most helpful. I now have a selection of blades and will test out what suits me best. Also thanks for your previous response - you're the first one to ever answer on here, so thanks for that as well. I was completely impressed with the artwork on about minute 34. That's incredible.
You're very welcome Rey. I'm glad that you found it all useful. I do my best to answer every single comment that I get on the channel. While I admit that there are a few that I somehow miss, for the most part, I am able to keep up with them. Thanks for the kind words on the cuttings and for tuning in to the show. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate.
Big help. Many thanks. Just bought a 2nd hand delta saw and a starter pack of blades. I now understand tpi and blade numbering. The 👍
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found this video helpful as well. As always, please don't hesitate if you have any questions. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks. are Blades numbered the same way in the UK? I'll be working with 3/4 to an inch thick wood. I'm thinking nothing lighter than a no.7? Also my saw is 2 speed. Would the lower speed be for thicker timber with lower TPIs. Many thanks.
@@nervouspenguins9982 Not exactly sure how the blades are numbered in the UK, but I would think that they would be the same as they are universal numbers. As for the 3/4" stock, I would use a number 7 reverser tooth blade. I prefer a PGT blade as they are a little more aggressive but a regular #7 should do you fine. As for the speed of the saw, I would keep it to the lower speed until you get the hang of scrolling. Speed is more of a control thing. Using a higher TPI blade, in thicker stock just overheats and breaks the blade eventually. Using the correct sized blade for the correct thickness is the most important thing and the speed isn't a factor in the actual cutting. The only time that speed affects the cutting (IMO) is when you are cutting something that could melt (like plexiglass) or something that requires slower speeds such as metal cutting. Other than that, feel free to cut at whichever speed you are comfortable with. I hope this helps.
@@acutabove_woodworkings success. Mounted a no.7 blade and produced a letter P, A and E (familys' initials) and a wonky easter bunny. Blade jumped out a few times so a lot to learn about tensioning etc but I'm on my way. Thanks again. P
@@nervouspenguins9982 Congratulations on the first projects. You've been bitten by the scrolling bug now. There's no turning back. Good luck.
Great teaching! I need to see recommendations for blade and stock combos for varied projects. Plywood vs. Hardwoods vs. Acrylics vs. Metals, etc.
The variables of the materials you just mentions are endless. Plywood is largely varied in blades sizes according to thickness, the number of plys, the species of the plywood and how intricate and tight your design for cutting it. Hardwoods are also governed by the same variable but the species plays a huge part because the size blade you would use on walnut, would never cut through Purple Heart. Acrylics can be tricky and again, thickness plays a part in your blade selection but also, the speed of your saw also plays a huge part because heat is a contributing factor in getting a clean cut. Too much speed with a larger blade will create large pockets that melt back together, leaving a poor cut quality and a mess to clean up while using a smaller blade with too much speed will result in melting the acrylic immediately after cutting it, causing the blade to jam and possibly break. Metals are another completely different story. Thickness plays a huge part but for the most part, the blades that are used are a high TPI and they are run at extremely low speed to avoid friction and heat, and allow the gullets of the blade to clear the metal filing from the cut kerf. Basically what I'm saying is that there is a lot of experimenting that goes on with scroll but using the basic knowledge of this video will give you a starting point as to what blade to choose and what to expect from it. During the cut, if you know the signs to look out for, such as burning the wood, having to apply too much pressure to cut etc, you can adjust your blade choice accordingly and eventually it becomes second nature. It's pretty rare for me, after almost 30 years of scrolling, that I choose the wrong blade for the job. It's all about experience and knowing what to look out for and how to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Absolutely excellent video. "Thank You"
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for such an informative video. I have watched your videos for beginners which I am and have learned so much. Great teaching !!
Glad that you found the shows to be useful Bobby. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions at all. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Great information...thank you for putting this information out, especially us beginners.
You're very welcome Lee. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Holy smoke, Kenny.....that scroll saw project you showed is an awesome piece, and I applaud both your skill and your patience!! Oddly, a scroll saw (my grandfather's old belt-driven beast!) was probably the first power tool I ever used, at about age nine or ten (back in the fifties!), but the one I know the least about, in terms of details like blade selection! That Excalibur saw is a beautiful tool, too. To start, I just got myself an inexpensive Ryobi, but it seems to serve my purposes OK...at least for now. it's variable speed and accepts plain end blades, so I'm free to select blades pretty freely, unlike a lot of other inexpensive saws (that I found only use pinned blades). I took your advice, though, and added a foot switch which has made things much more convenient. Thanks for clearing away much of the blade selection 'fog.' I'm in the midst of a project using 1/8" stock. The Olson spiral blades do make it easier (cutting out names written in cursive) but you are absolutely correct: I spend a lot of time with sanding sticks in my hand! LOL When I have more time, I'll get braver and try something similar using 'conventional' blades. Thanks again...and I look forward to your next video. :-)
Hang in there Norm. The scroll saw isn't something that comes naturally and it take a lot of practice to get it right. While spiral blades do have their place, for lettering in 1/8" stock, you would probably get better results from a #2 reverse tooth blade. While you edged may not be perfect, the amount of sanding that you need to do will be minimized. The perfect (or close to perfect) edges will come with practice. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it very much. If you haven't already, you might want to check out the two part series on scrolling for beginners here on the channel. It might give you some pointers on control and learning the craft. ruclips.net/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/видео.html
If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
Thank you for a great presentation. I'm going to buy a scroll saw and had no idea what blades to use.
You will find that after a while, it becomes second nature. You will also find that you gravitate to a small handful of blades that you use. Good luck on your new adventure and if you ever have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in
Just opened my first scroll saw and was feeling a bit lost. Thanks for all your help! I'll be sifting through your channel. Mostly 1/2 inch stock, think I'll grab some #7 PGT reverse tooth blades...
Hey Dave. For 1/2" stock, if you are getting some PGT blades, you might be just fine with a #3. Those blades cut really well. The #7 will be fine for the cut and will also be good for 3/4" stock as well so the #3's are not a requirement, but it's always nice to have extra blades in your arsenal. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in.
I use the pinless PGT 14.5 tpi reverse tooth on 1/2 baltic birch and the cuts come out polished smooth. I use a Dewalt DW788 Type 1
I'm so lucky I found your channel your the swiss army guy of blades love the help this video did for me and yes you filled this noodle thanks for this video I'm new to scroll saw work and still learning on what blades did what and now you have help me with it thanks
You're very welcome. If you ever aren't sure, I'm always available to answer any questions that you might have. When I first started scrolling, there was no such thing as the internet and the only way to learn was by books or practice. I'm only too happy to help you out while you are learning to scroll. Feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you
I know nothing but you have helped tremendously
I'm glad that you found the show to be useful Ken. Thanks for tuning in
best video I have watched in relation to blades. thanks so much
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in
Excellent video, nice that you take your time and explain everything clearly. Just about to buy my first saw and this has been a huge help. Many thanks Kenny and greetings from the UK. Subscribed!
Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber Hugo. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions at all. I'd be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hiya Kenny, actually, I do have a quick question if you don`t mind. I don`t have a lot of money to spend on my first saw, and I`d like to try it for a while anyway to see if I get really into it before shelling out on a Hegner or similar. Problem is, there are plenty of cheap ones on the market in the UK, IE under £300, but every single one of them seems to use the same dreadful allen bolt clamp adapters for pinless blades, the bottom one drops off the hook when the blade it released and the top needs a tool and a lot of fiddling about every time. Any idea if anyone makes a budget saw with quick release clamp? Or an effective mod? Any suggestions much appreciated.
@@hugostare8695 I'm not too familiar with the brands or saws that are available in the UK. I did find this one, www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tools-machinery-scroll-saws-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-rotary-shaft-package-rutlands+dk7170#nogo
which seems to be a fairly good entry level saw according to the specification, but I can't tell in the picture if it has the blade adapter that you are complaining about. It might be worth looking into. Barring that, you really can't go wrong with a DeWalt, DW788 scroll saw as an entry level saw. (if they are available in your area). I hope this helps.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks Kenny, much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to look these up. Rutland saw uses the hideous clamp adapter arrangement unfortunately, and yep, the Dwalt is very desirable and available here but well out of my price range, around £700. But, I had a spot of luck today, picked up this locally, second hand, light use, couple of years old, for £300! Think I`m going to enjoy this.. www.axminstertools.com/axminster-trade-series-ex-16-scroll-saw-101771
@@hugostare8695 Looks like you have a nice saw there. It is very similar to the Excalibur EX-21. You should be happy with that. Good luck with your adventure in learning scrolling. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you Kenny. Exactly what I was looking for. So many just explain the different type of blades but never actually tell you what you need to get started. Really appreciated the tip about if the saw is cutting too fast or too slow then change blade size. I've ordered the scroll saw was now trying to work out which blades to order to get started! Thanks again. I've taken notes and shall no doubt return!
By the way the video I watched before this was a really quiet one and I'd had to turn the sound right up!! Your intro music about blew the windows out!
Sorry about your window Richard. This is an older video and the volume on the intro has since been reduced because of several complaints. I'm glad to hear that the show was useful to you and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very well explained I use the 3r blade and find them ideal for the work I do, thank you for the extra knowledge.
You're very welcome William. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for clarification. Your work is amazing! You must be a very patient person...
If I am working with wood from 2 mm thin to 1.5 cm thick...some soft and some hard...what 3 blades should I start out with. I know I want a reverse blade for minimal sanding.
I will be potentially be making replacement pieces for inlay, name plates (cutting the names out of the middle), cutting out whole words thick enough to stand up on their own and probably jewellery pieces...oh and jewellery boxes...
What is the make and model of the small accordian hose you have attached to your saw please?
The main blades that I would suggest are a #2 for thinner work, a #3 PGT for cuts up to 1/2" thick and a #7 PGT for cuts 1/2" and over. I hope this helps. The according air hose doesn't have a brand name. It is a part of the saw. Most scroll saws will come with a blower tube of some kind. Mine is just an accordion style. I hope this helps. Glad that you found the blade video. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings wrote it down...thanks!
Very informative, you answered lots of questions for me. Thanks for spending the time to create a great video.
You're very welcome Charles. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
TY for a fine production. At age 70, I am getting into scrolling so that I can SIT DOWN and still accomplish something. My chainsaw days are almost over.
It's never too late to learn Glen. Good for you for taking the initiative to try something new. Be sure to check out my videos "Scrolling For Beginners" Parts 1 and 2. They might help you along with some of the frustrations associated with learning something new. Thanks so much for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
excellent part 1 &2 very good teacher, I 'LL GIVE HIM 20/10. THANK YOU SO MUCH
You are very welcome Carlo. I'm glad that you enjoyed the shows. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
47 thumbs up after 1.1k views - Wow that's a tough crowd!
That was one terrific explanation. Thanks for taking the time to do that for us all Kenny.
Already ordered the blades before I've bought the saw. Will start with the Ryobi, because here in Australia the next level is Au$1,000 and the Ryobi is $129. If I stick to using it long enough to be frustrated by it, then I'll invest in the better ones.
Sounds like a good plan Howard. If you haven't already, you should consider checking out some of my beginner videos on the scroll saw. One of which is the buyer's guide and the beginner lessons on scrolling. As always on my channel, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
I already did, before I got to this one. However, I don't remember viewing the buyers guide - will search. However, there is very little range here. Ryobi, economy jet and then it's next stop Excalibur loookalike.
Must say, your presentation is enough to excite the interest of anyone remotely considering the hobby.
Thanks for the compliment Howard. Here is the link to the buyer's guide if you are interested. ruclips.net/video/kBCdGKTaQms/видео.html
Just for a little information, don't get your heart set on an Excalibur scrollsaw as the design and the rights to it have been sold and they are now called the Excelsior. I have been informed by the old manufacturer that the new company is using the same specifications that Excalibur used to. Either way, I've also heard good things about the Jet. Feel free to ask questions along the way. I wish I had someone to teach or help me as I was learning but the internet wasn't a thing back then.
Whoa ! that was really in depth, more than I was looking for, but HEY ! the more you know the better... Brill, Thnx.
I would rather give the extra information than to make a quick little compressed video that provides no real information. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show Norman and for taking the time to leave a comment.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Not in any way knocking it, It was really good, Thnx
@@normski4ash Glad to hear it. Thanks.
Another great video for scrolling. I am buying a second scroll saw before I even get started because its going for cheap. I will check out your other videos for tips. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show and subscribing. I appreciate the support.
fantastic video, as a beginner this has helped me loads thank you,
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for this video I am just starting and didn't know how to choose or if I need to change the blade on my saw I just got used. Very informative video.
I'm glad that you found it useful Maha. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
Thanks for the blade info, new to scrolling, have to use the right blade to get good results
Blade selection is probably the most important factor when it comes to good results on the saw. I hope you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
I've subscribed to the channel, keep up the good work! Thanks
@@terrygabrielson5598 Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber. I hope that you will find many other projects and episodes to enjoy. Feel free to comment or ask any questions that you may have at any point in time. Fridays, are the woodworking episodes of the show and Tuesdays can be anything from tool reviews, to rants, to resin work or welding....basically, whatever I feel like doing that day. I hope you enjoy the channel. Thanks for subscribing.
Another great information video thank you
Glad that you liked it. Blade selection is one of the keys to getting good results on a scroll saw. After a while, it becomes second nature to choose the right blade and at first, there is a lot of experimenting to see what blade cuts best but once you get it, it's very satisfying to be able to pick the right blade immediately when cutting your stock. Thanks for tuning in.
Very informative, thank you so much. Regards Jean
You're very welcome Jean. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi my name is Robert and I never used a scroll saw before and I just ordered one but you were talking about wood splitters, I know from experience that when drilling a hole in wood you get splinters on the bottom of the wood, But if you put another piece of wood on the bottom of the wood you are drilling you do not get any splinters. Try that with a scroll saw and see how it works.
The method does work for greatly reducing the burring on the back side of the board Robert but unfortunately, it also increases the thickness of your cut, putting more stress on the blade and on the saw and on the operator. It does work though. Thanks for tuning in.
Fantastically useful and instructive video. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions that you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I just picked up a used Craftsman scroll saw. It is a few years old but it is in mint shape, not a scratch. It also appears to work fine. I do not have the manual that comes with it. Is it safe to assume the blade length is 5 inches ? That seems to be the standard size for most scroll saws. The saw I bought did not come with a blade and it was sitting in a storage unit for a few years. Any maintenance (oiling and such) I should do to it before firing it up ? For $25 I found it hard to pass up, it powers up and the speed control is bang on
Older scroll saws had a different length blade but it would have to be very old for that. I would say that if the scroll saw taking un-pinned blades, then the chances are pretty good that they are a 5" length. It sounds like you've got yourself a great deal. Some scroll saws (like the Ryobi) have bearings that need to be oiled every so often. I would suggest googling the model number and seeing if you can find a manual. In most cases though, scroll saws are plug and play with no real lubrication needed. If you are concerned, you can always put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on anything that moves. It wont hurt the machine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have a scroll saw that I sometimes use for cutting acrylic tubing. The tubing has a 14mm OD and a 1.8mm wall thickness. What would be the perfect blade to use that would provide the smoothest burr-free finish? Thanks.
A burr free finish on acrylic tubing is a hard thing to accomplish. The problem is that there is more than one plane being cut during the operation which creates more than one area for burrs to occur. I would suggest something in the neighbourhood of a #5 PGT blade and reducing the speed of your saw to prevent overheating and melting the acrylic. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hi.....thank you so much! 🙂
Thanks for this video, it was very informative.
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show.
Hi, question, can a flat blade be used in an old scroll saw that has a pin holder ? All of the blades that I have used have the pin but apparently they don’t come in a smaller size blade? Thanks, I’m confused about what I can use.😜
If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1
are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
Only starting would you recommend a blade to start with
It would depend on what species you are cutting and how thick it is. Thanks for tuning in.
I never knew there was so much variety, but you made it easier to understand. So, a 2R should be fine for medium hardness 1/" balsa wood. Do you have a suggestion for 1/2" balsa wing ribs (gentle curves)?
A 2R will be perfect for 1/4" balsa and for 1/2" balsa, I would consider a #3 PGT blade to be more than adequate. I hope this helps John. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
wow, I just learned a bunch about scroll saw blades that I didn't even know existed. and you say it just a beginning ...lol great video ken.
There are way more than I have mentioned in this video riley. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
kennyearrings1 , thank you. I just realized you are in Toronto. little north of you in lindsay-peterborough area
We are practically neighbours. LOL. Thanks for tuning in. It's a standing offer if you have any questions.
Hi I have a question, I just ordered my first scroll saw, I never used one before.
My scroll saw will cut from 550 to 1600 strokes per minute, should I cut faster on thinner wood and shower on thicker wood?
Or just the reverse?
It's not a matter of cutting faster or slower according to thickness. Speed is all about control. If you can cut the wood at a higher speed and still have control, then it will be fine. If you are having issues with controlling your cuts, slow the speed down. I usually recommend that beginner start with their saw at 50% power and then slowly adjust up or down depending on how well they are controlling their cuts. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you for the advice. I haven't received my scroll saw yet it will be here Wednesday, but I will know where to start.
THANK YOU VERY VERY VERY MUCH!
This was so helpful. Thank you
I'm glad that you liked it Michele. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very good video. Thank you
You're very welcome Max. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Learned so much with your video. Thanks!
You are very welcome Eduardo. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in.
Brilliant. Just the information I was looking for and well explained. many thanks
You are very welcome Stephen. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I will do my best to help out. Thanks for tuning in.
What category of work are your main ones for using the scroll saw rather than a band saw. I saw where a fellow was using a 1/8 inch blade on a bandsaw and doing some intricate cuts. I ask this because I dont have a scroll saw and my 1954 bandsaw needs to be replaced...I wont be buying both, but if I were to buy a scroll saw, excalibur, king and pegas are the ones I am looking at. Thanks for your videos.
I use the scroll saw for everything Drake. There are so many projects that the scroll saw has a part in. When I think of all the processes that I use a scroll saw for, there is only one that couldn't be done on a bandsaw and that would be fretwork. Fretwork is the main use for my scroll saw and I just find that its versatility over a bandsaw is huge. For the most part, the cuts on a bandsaw can be quite rough whereas with a scroll saw, the cuts can be smooth enough that sanding isn't even required on the cut edges. Even with a 1/8" blade, the radius of cuts (while they can be quite tight) still cannot compare with the right radii that are possible with a scroll saw. With a scroll saw, you can rotate a piece of stock 180 degrees and follow back through the cut you just made. With a bandsaw, that just isn't possible. A lot of bandsaws will not accept a 1/8" blade and a 3/16" is the smallest that they will accept so that might be something that you want to consider as well. Not knowing what you main purpose is for these saws, it's pretty hard to make a suggestion. I will say that in my opinion, a bandsaw can never replace a scroll saw and a scroll saw can never replace a band saw. They both have processes that they excel at and although most processes are possible on both saws, the results and ease of cutting will shine on one saw over the other. You can re-saw on a scroll saw but only to a two inch thickness. You can re-saw on a bandsaw to a much thicker depth, but you can't get the fine cutting that you can on a scroll saw. Cutting smaller pieces on a bandsaw with a smaller blade is possible but it is also more dangerous than using a scroll saw. That constantly rotating blade of the bandsaw takes a nasty bite if you get too close whereas a scroll saw just gives you a "kiss". LOL. I hope this has helped a little. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings while I am impressed with the end product of fretwork and the amount of time consumed doing that fretwork, I find fretwork a bit lacey.
@@lmallard3788 I can understand that completely. You have to realize though that fretwork is the process of cutting multiple holes to form a design, pattern or picture. The cat cutting that you were inquiring about (leopard) is also considered fretwork and I don't find it Lacey at all. With that being said, I've seen some fretwork that looks like it belongs on Grandma's end table with an accent lamp and some coasters. Now THAT's Lacey. LOL.
Another cracking video which made tons of sense about the bewildering subject of which blades LOL I've bought some pinless 28 TPI for 1/4 " hardboard hope I've made the right choice Kenny ? Thanks again .
The blade that you purchased (28 TPI) is a universal #2 blade and should be just perfect for 1/4" MDF or hardboard. You've made the right choice. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
Thank you…you have answered a huge missing explanation that I’ve been looking for…as a beginner.
You are very welcome. I'm glad that you found the video helpful. Thanks for tuning in.
A very informative video, thanks for posting. Cheers !
Glad that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I just bought a ryobi and want to learn to use it to cut elements for my artwork. can you post link to your scroll saw lesson videos?
There are plenty of scroll saw related videos on the channel. If you go to the main page of my channel and look at the playlists, you will find one that is for scroll saw work. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck with your scrolling.
Are the Scroll saw blade numbers 5, 7, 9 and TPI the same for softwood and hardwood.
The universal blade numbers and the TPI are the same on the blades regardless of what you are cutting. There are not different blades for hard woods or soft woods. What is important is that you choose the correct blade for the species that you are cutting. It is a combination of thickness and harness that will determine what blade you use. For 1/2" thick pine (for example) you can probably get away with a #3 blade but would have to step it up to a #5 for 1/2" thick maple. I hope this helps a little Douglas. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi, I’m confused, can a flat end blade be used on a machine with the pin apparatus? Thank you 🙏
No, not unless the machine specifically states that it can take either style blade. If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1
are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for giving me this info, I think I will just purchase a new machine, do you have any experience with the “glow forge”? They look like they work very well but they are expensive! Have a great evening 😋
VERY helpful, thank you.
Glad that you liked it Edmund. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Very informative and something I really needed to know.
Glad to hear that you found it informative Jim. It's a lot of information to digest all at once, but truth be told, as you get into scrolling more and more, you will find that there are only about 3 blade sizes that you will reach for and those 3 will incorporate everything that you do. Everyone's blade sizes are different depending on the style of their cutting. For me, it's either a #2, #3 or a #7. It's pretty rare that I reach for anything else. Good luck with your scrolling and thanks for tuning in.
I’m from Ontario, where did u buy the plastic tubes for the scroll saw blades?
I got them at Lee Valley Brian. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/storage-and-organization/containers/32173-shop-storage-tubes
I hope it helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Great video. I learned a lot. ThankQ
Glad to hear that you found the show to be useful Richard. Thanks for tuning in.
What number reverse Blade for 10 mm plywood?
Great and and funky job !
All of the information on what blades to use on the different thicknesses of stock, is contained in the video. However, the measurements that I provide are all in imperial measures. If I were to cut 10mm thick plywood, I would start off with a #3 PGT reverse tooth blade and if it was struggling, I would upgrade to a #5. Depending on the intricacies or your pattern, you may not want to go any higher than that. But if the pattern is basic and you want to cut it quickly, a #7 will cut it like a hot knife though butter. I hope this helps Jordi. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
what blade would best suit a hardwood like purple heart?
Purple Heart is an extremely hard species Raho and while the species does help in determining what blade to use, one of the main factors will be the thickness of the Purple Heart. For (up to) 3/4" thickness I would suggest a #7 PGT reverse tooth blade. This will still be a tough cut in 3/4" thickness of Purple Heart and you will have to take it slow but it will cut it. For 1/2" thick or less, it will have no issues. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Brilliant descriptions, very understandable and have helped me a great deal. Coupe of questions for you if you don't mind.......If you were doing very intricate work in say thickish stock of 0.75" to an 1" what blade would you go to? Also, I understand beefier blades will all cut thinner stuff but would I struggle to turn/scroll on tight turns with a bigger blade? I bought an old secondhand Hegner this week and need all the help I can get not ever done any scrolling before.
A large part of this answer relies on the species of the wood as the choice for maple may not necessarily be the same for poplar. Either way, If I were to cut somewhat intricate work in 3/4" thick material, I would most likely go with an Olson #7 PGT blade. I should do the trick. Using larger blades can make tight turns a little more difficult. You wont be turning quickly that's for sure but as long as you take your time and cut slowly, you should have no issues making tight turns or corners. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The burring could probably be greatly reduced by putting masking tape on the back , right?
I've never heard of anyone using this method but I can see where it might work. The masking tape might act as a sacrificial "board" that would support the back of the piece during cutting. You might be on to something. I will have to give this a try. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question.
If you could put a musical note or sound to how much tension is optimal for most blades what sound would you say it might be? In my experience over the last 10 yrs that average tone sound is equivalent to about notes of "A," "B," or "C" depending on the thinness of the blade - thicker blades more towards the note of "A," whereas the skinnier they are, more towards the higher note of "C." Thoughts?
I have never really thought about the tension of the blade in relation to musical notes John. I have thought of it more in terms of tone. Much the same way that a improperly tensioned guitar string will yield a dead and muffled tone, a scroll saw blade will do the same. You want a higher pitched clean tone coming from the blade when you pluck it. As long as the tone is of a higher pitch and clean, the note itself isn't that important. Thickness of the blades and different materials, teeth counts, gullets, skip tooth vs reverse tooth etc will all change the "notes" of the tensioned blade and you will end up driving yourself crazy trying to relate to a note. Try for a clean tone and go from there. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for that reply. I am a guitarist. So I suppose the musical note immediately came into mind since finding that sweet spot for sound depending on the blade size is how I know when the tension is good if not just right. Of course an additional check I use is to see how much the blade bends back from the vertical while the blade is cutting (using a normal amount of pressure) so that when cutting the wood, the blade barely moves backwards as the wood is pressed into it to cut. Too much bend in my experience means the blade needs a little more tension. I hope that is also something you look for once you feel the blade is tensioned just right?@@acutabove_woodworkings
@@johnhuggins5021 Sounds like you are doing it right already. Another thing to watch out for is curved cuts (top to bottom) on thicker stock. This can be caused by poor tension. I understand completely the need or desire to get the perfect tension but rest assured that the scroll saw is very forgiving in this department. I'd love to see some of your work some time.
Sure. Here's one of my recent intarsia projects. 20231017_125742.jpg If this jpg file does not work pls send me an email address or describe how I can post it here.
There is no way to place images in RUclips comments so your images are not viewable. You can however send them to kennye@acutabovewoodworkings.com
Thank you, thank you very much. I feel that I now have a good understanding about blades. Just started scrolling at the age of 68. Also what kind of plywood wood would you choice. Is the baltic plywood better to use? How well would very hard wood like purple heart cut and what blade would you use for these hard woods. Thank you, Ken
I don't normally scroll plywood Ken and prefer to scroll solid stock. It can be a little more challenging but I enjoy the challenge. Baltic birch is a good choice though if you are interested in plywood. It's strong, clear and light coloured. It also takes a stain fairly well. As for Purple Heart, that's a tough one. Purpleheart is like scrolling stone only harder. LOL. It would depend on the thickness of the Purple Heart and the intricacies of the design but you should be able to scroll 1/2" thick Purple Heart with a number 7 PGT blade without issue. A lot depends on the thickness of the stock, the speed of the saw, the speed of your feed rate and how tight you are turning the corners. I hope this helps a little. Feel free to ask any questions you might have while learning. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings That helps a lot. I thank you for your time. I will keep that in mind about other questions. Ken
@@kenpederson7047 You're very welcome.
Ken, interesting show. I find that the majority of the time I use either a 2 or 3 reverse tooth and once in awhile a 7. You can probably guess that most of my work is in thinner stock. I have yet to try spiral blades but you make me want to give them a try. I am curious about the fretwork you showed, where did you get the pattern and what kind of wood did you use? It looked great. Thanks for the informative show. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
That patterns are of various sources Paul. Some, I make myself and others are from magazines etc. The wood that my scrolling is cut from is 1/4" thick solid oak and it really is a challenge to cut the intricate pieces in a coarse stock like oak without breaking pieces. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in my friend. It's great to hear from you.
Thank you so much for this, picking up my DeWalt tomorrow and was trying to decide which blades to grab for starters. I am in BC Canada and Olson is common. I know this video is a couple years old now, but I have their selection chart and do not see a #3 reverse, only in the Mach and a couple other specialty blades or did I missing something?
I'm not sure if OLSON sells a normal #3 blade as I only use their Mach blades in that number. But I will tell you that they Mach blades are incredible. They are a little more expensive but they give an incredibly clean and almost polished cut to the stock. For normal blades such as reverse tooth, a number 5 blade would work just as well in place of a number 3 as the kerf is similar and the blade size is also similar. I hope this helps. If you have any questions along the way Dawn, you can feel free to contact me via the channel's Facebook page or through email and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Of course, you can always reach me by commenting on one of my shows. Thanks for tuning in.
Nice Scroll Saw!
Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in.
Great video thank you very much
You're very welcome Russell. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.