Nice report, Joe. Here are a couple random thoughts: 1) You saw first hand the benefit of a gated, thermally protected MOV. It absorbed a very large spike and immediately opened up preventing the likelihood of the MOV catching on fire. 2) Line or load side installation matters not. Once the fuses or non-fusible stab is inserted, there really is no line or load...everything becomes one. Fuses manage amperage while MOVs manage voltage. 3) Whole house surge protectors do a great job of protecting the dwelling from the grid. However, the majority of the impulses hitting a dwelling come from inside the dwelling as a result of inductive devices switching OFF creating a spike....(anything with a motor). For this reason, local surge protection is optimal.
Good to see you back Joe. I was wondering if you were just taking a break from RUclips or if something had happened. That surge protector may have also helped shunt the spike and saved other stuff in the house too.
Welcome back. I hope you've been well. That surge protector sure felt *all* the burn. One for the whole house might be an even better idea. Surges are funny things. I've seen one that left every sensitive electronic device in an old farmhouse unscathed while destroying the motor in an old box fan. Another one made a fireball that was seen for miles when it struck a TV antenna mast, yet the TV survived with little more than a severely magnetized picture tube.
The manufacturer of the surge protector doesn’t have the right to say whether it can be double tap. The terminals of the disconnect are not rated for double taping
Guessing if it’s on the load side you would have blown the fuses. Line side is always a better idea , this shows it’s more effective in saving more items. Good to see you back brother. From the old hvac guy in Toronto.👍👍🇨🇦
one of the upstream breakers would likely open first still. that said I wonder what all the breakers and panel looks like inside, that was clearly primary voltage onto the secondary side, unless lightning whacked the pole/lines.
*LET US ALL HAVE A MOMENT OF SILENCE* for the surge protector who sacrificed himself in the line of duty in electrical service to his fellow countryman's air conditioning unit.
I would have put that surge protector at 9 o clock on the furnace cause someone is going to walk in there and bust it straight off and sparks will go flying..
I thought the same thing but I also noticed he is not too tidy. I mean, it works but sometimes is good to be mindful of those things. Also, mixing the metals (other wire was copper) may be nice to put some antioxidant. And, most important, keep the wires as short as possible, no sharp bends and twist the two hot wires, it optimizes, is much more efficient and deters "noise" and lets more juice into the protector to drop to Earth. Those wires in the disconnect could be shorter and straighter and the one in the furnace, which I hace and is really good because is the 120V version and is smaller, could have been installed at 900hrs position or even at the bottom with nice Wago lever nuts pigtails.
Dang I want to start recommending a surge protector now, that’s amazing bc I have been on many calls where a sudden brown out caused problems with ac, also a fellow Michigander
It does, is better than nothing, but....AC is so expensive that you want to add an extra level. I will try to explain, anything coming through the utility pole will find the SPD in your main panel and it will drain as much as is capable to ground...some are rated for 22,500joules, most won't go over 50,000joules...and they will take the hit and shunt the bleeding down the ground/neutral wire. Yet, if something really nasty (Florida 140k easy or MidWest 80k-100k) hits too close, the rest will spread all over the wiring in your home, so if there is another checkpoint at the disconnect outside it will be diverted to ground before it hits the sensitive circuits in the condenser. And, it can also be local, not from the utility pole, a lighting strike on a tree in your backyard, then if meets your AC before it even gets inside your home. My AC is 50 feet away from my distribution panel and I still have one despite I have a 50k one in the panel inside the house. And, I have a Type 1 SPD in the disconnect (I have a disconnect between the meter and my distribution panel, so my "main" panel is really a subpanel). The reason why I did it is because I also have a transfer switch for a generator so I wanted to protect BEFORE it hits my transfer switch. So, if it fries the first 36,000 SPD (Home Depot, good one), then it needs to fry the 50k one in the panel before it continues to the AC which has the one in the video, which blew up because it does not protect for a lot of joules....
Maybe I should get a whole house surge protector!!! I just last year, got a new furnace and air conditioner. Plus, a new refrigerator and stove. I heard, that you can't start your stove burners without electricity.
most are still operable if you use a long grill lighter or match. just the electronic spark ignitor wont work Also note, the oven, broiler and warming drawers will NOT work either, as they have a glow plug ignitor that opens the thermally controlled gas valve after a period of time, the warming drawers have an electric element. ( depends on model of oven as to what it has)
@@throttlebottle5906 @Michigan Heating Guy my friend at the gym, told me, that newer efficient stoves wouldn't work without electricity. I checked it myself and he was wrong. I had at least a 15 year old stove and the electriconic spark igniters didn't work anymore. I've been using a lighter to light the old stove. So, i decided to buy a new stove. Where I wouldn't have to use a lighter to light the flame. I'm definitely going to get a surge protector, because I bought a refrigerator too. I don't want to lose a expensive refrigerator, because of a Michigan lighting storm. I'm trying to get ahold of my electrician to see how much and schedule an appointment.
@@buffydog21 I believe there are somewith electronic gas valves on the market now and those would not work without power. but I think they were off brand or overpriced things only a clown would buy 🤡
Would a whole house surge protector likely have protected the AC as well as the rest of the house? Or is it more effective to do a protector at each point?
Ideally you do both. The more you have the less of a transient the device at the end of the line will see. All of the manufacturers have good info on this.
It does, is better than nothing, but....AC is so expensive that you want to add an extra level. I will try to explain, anything coming through the utility pole will find the SPD in your main panel and it will drain as much as is capable to ground...some are rated for 22,500joules, most won't go over 50,000joules...and they will take the hit and shunt the bleeding down the ground/neutral wire. Yet, if something really nasty (Florida 140k easy or MidWest 80k-100k) hits too close, the rest will spread all over the wiring in your home, so if there is another checkpoint at the disconnect outside it will be diverted to ground before it hits the sensitive circuits in the condenser. And, it can also be local, not from the utility pole, a lighting strike on a tree in your backyard, then if meets your AC before it even gets inside your home. My AC is 50 feet away from my distribution panel and I still have one despite I have a 50k one in the panel inside the house. And, I have a Type 1 SPD in the disconnect (I have a disconnect between the meter and my distribution panel, so my "main" panel is really a subpanel). The reason why I did it is because I also have a transfer switch for a generator so I wanted to protect BEFORE it hits my transfer switch. So, if it fries the first 36,000 SPD (Home Depot, good one), then it needs to fry the 50k one in the panel before it continues to the AC which has the one in the video, which blew up because it does not protect for a lot of joules.... My neighbor has the Square D 22,500K one and it fried, but mine which is 50k did not, so I believe that if you get a heavy duty one (Square D has a superb one of 80k) then it will absorb a voltage tsunami and live another day. This was important because I did not want anything exploding and catching fire in my basement, so I installed it inside a 6x6 metal box, so it it explodes it will be contained. I drilled a hole with a step drill bit to be able to see the light, but is inside the box like a tumor on the side of the electric panel. If your SPD is a good one >50k then it should be enough to tackle the nasty juice without frying unless you are in Florida. IF IN FLORIDA OR TEXAS then spend $240 in a BAD WOLF surge protector. They are the best, they go over 260,000 joules of protection and even have EMP capabilities. They are cool, the wolf's eyes are the red lights to show it works. Those can take a direct hit because anything that strong will knock you down if it hits your home, ha! And, they are USA made by disabled veterans! is just that is double the price and if not in those lighting capitals of the USA is not really needed.
With the technology that is available today, why are these systems built into the meters as sop, the electric companies should provide clean regulated power.
Actually, whole house surge protectors are a requirement in the 2020 edition of the NEC code book, so be prepared to see more of them once your state adopts that edition. There’s only so much a utility can do for the low voltage (relatively speaking) side of things. I don’t think this was a transformer blowing, it’s more likely a case of a medium voltage line fell onto a low voltage line, especially with the high winds the Midwest saw recently. The boom is almost never the transformer, it’s the nature of the fuses that protect them. In some areas some linemen call the shotgun fuses ;) The electrical grid is a very complex machine. The power grids (there are three in the US) are the single largest and most complex machines in the world, and they have to be run very accurately.
I tried to sell them after selling a 1000 computer years ago they said no. Did we make profit on the surge yes. Computer maybe 4%. That company is out of business. RadioShack. I remember when a squirrel 🐿️ stepped on two phases on the line wire. Blew it up. Our houses survived, but the transformer was replaced. Good thing it was giving us problems. The surge protector returned the surge to the line protecting the equipment. We have erico and Ge tranqual surge protectors. Nice video.
Nice report, Joe. Here are a couple random thoughts:
1) You saw first hand the benefit of a gated, thermally protected MOV. It absorbed a very large spike and immediately opened up preventing the likelihood of the MOV catching on fire.
2) Line or load side installation matters not. Once the fuses or non-fusible stab is inserted, there really is no line or load...everything becomes one. Fuses manage amperage while MOVs manage voltage.
3) Whole house surge protectors do a great job of protecting the dwelling from the grid. However, the majority of the impulses hitting a dwelling come from inside the dwelling as a result of inductive devices switching OFF creating a spike....(anything with a motor). For this reason, local surge protection is optimal.
Good to see you back Joe. I was wondering if you were just taking a break from RUclips or if something had happened. That surge protector may have also helped shunt the spike and saved other stuff in the house too.
Welcome back Joe! Missing the videos.
Just glad to see a return by MI Heating Guy
Welcome back. I hope you've been well.
That surge protector sure felt *all* the burn. One for the whole house might be an even better idea.
Surges are funny things. I've seen one that left every sensitive electronic device in an old farmhouse unscathed while destroying the motor in an old box fan. Another one made a fireball that was seen for miles when it struck a TV antenna mast, yet the TV survived with little more than a severely magnetized picture tube.
Glad to see you're still with us Joe...
The manufacturer of the surge protector doesn’t have the right to say whether it can be double tap. The terminals of the disconnect are not rated for double taping
So glad to see you again!!
Guessing if it’s on the load side you would have blown the fuses. Line side is always a better idea , this shows it’s more effective in saving more items. Good to see you back brother. From the old hvac guy in Toronto.👍👍🇨🇦
one of the upstream breakers would likely open first still. that said I wonder what all the breakers and panel looks like inside, that was clearly primary voltage onto the secondary side, unless lightning whacked the pole/lines.
He’s alive.
*LET US ALL HAVE A MOMENT OF SILENCE* for the surge protector who sacrificed himself in the line of duty in electrical service to his fellow countryman's air conditioning unit.
Lighting is mostly the reason. Surge Protector are good, more people should have them
Welcome back! Missed ya brother!
Good to see u back Joe thar surge protector was smoked for sure
Wow Joe , good vid and since your back , I'll call off the search party 😂🤣😂 Thx for posting ... Surge Protectors Work ...
I would have put that surge protector at 9 o clock on the furnace cause someone is going to walk in there and bust it straight off and sparks will go flying..
I thought the same thing but I also noticed he is not too tidy. I mean, it works but sometimes is good to be mindful of those things. Also, mixing the metals (other wire was copper) may be nice to put some antioxidant. And, most important, keep the wires as short as possible, no sharp bends and twist the two hot wires, it optimizes, is much more efficient and deters "noise" and lets more juice into the protector to drop to Earth. Those wires in the disconnect could be shorter and straighter and the one in the furnace, which I hace and is really good because is the 120V version and is smaller, could have been installed at 900hrs position or even at the bottom with nice Wago lever nuts pigtails.
He’s back
Holy smokes. I haven’t seen that before
What's up Curtis.
Yer back! 👍👍
Thanks for the videos.
Whoa! Great video. Are power surges a common problem there?
Yes they are
Dang I want to start recommending a surge protector now, that’s amazing bc I have been on many calls where a sudden brown out caused problems with ac, also a fellow Michigander
👍👍
What do you record with? I like the quality with the aspect ratio.
Gopro 8 black 2.7k
nothing like some primary high voltage on the secondary side. 🤣🤣
Do they have a whole house panel surge protector? wouldn't that protect all the equipment?
It does, is better than nothing, but....AC is so expensive that you want to add an extra level. I will try to explain, anything coming through the utility pole will find the SPD in your main panel and it will drain as much as is capable to ground...some are rated for 22,500joules, most won't go over 50,000joules...and they will take the hit and shunt the bleeding down the ground/neutral wire. Yet, if something really nasty (Florida 140k easy or MidWest 80k-100k) hits too close, the rest will spread all over the wiring in your home, so if there is another checkpoint at the disconnect outside it will be diverted to ground before it hits the sensitive circuits in the condenser. And, it can also be local, not from the utility pole, a lighting strike on a tree in your backyard, then if meets your AC before it even gets inside your home.
My AC is 50 feet away from my distribution panel and I still have one despite I have a 50k one in the panel inside the house. And, I have a Type 1 SPD in the disconnect (I have a disconnect between the meter and my distribution panel, so my "main" panel is really a subpanel). The reason why I did it is because I also have a transfer switch for a generator so I wanted to protect BEFORE it hits my transfer switch. So, if it fries the first 36,000 SPD (Home Depot, good one), then it needs to fry the 50k one in the panel before it continues to the AC which has the one in the video, which blew up because it does not protect for a lot of joules....
Maybe I should get a whole house surge protector!!! I just last year, got a new furnace and air conditioner. Plus, a new refrigerator and stove. I heard, that you can't start your stove burners without electricity.
BBQ lighter for the stove🔥🔥🔥
most are still operable if you use a long grill lighter or match. just the electronic spark ignitor wont work
Also note, the oven, broiler and warming drawers will NOT work either, as they have a glow plug ignitor that opens the thermally controlled gas valve after a period of time, the warming drawers have an electric element. ( depends on model of oven as to what it has)
@@throttlebottle5906 @Michigan Heating Guy my friend at the gym, told me, that newer efficient stoves wouldn't work without electricity. I checked it myself and he was wrong. I had at least a 15 year old stove and the electriconic spark igniters didn't work anymore. I've been using a lighter to light the old stove. So, i decided to buy a new stove. Where I wouldn't have to use a lighter to light the flame. I'm definitely going to get a surge protector, because I bought a refrigerator too. I don't want to lose a expensive refrigerator, because of a Michigan lighting storm. I'm trying to get ahold of my electrician to see how much and schedule an appointment.
@@buffydog21 I believe there are somewith electronic gas valves on the market now and those would not work without power. but I think they were off brand or overpriced things only a clown would buy 🤡
I usually dont like to see the contactor below 14 ohms
20 bucks says someone kicks that off in a bout 1 year
Did it save the unit?
Yes
@@MiHeatingGuy went out in a blaze of glory!😅
What about the indoor unit? Do surge protectors need to be on those?
Yes it's in the video
I normally don't stop the video and ask questions but this time i did😂.
Sorry about that. I asked too soon
Would a whole house surge protector likely have protected the AC as well as the rest of the house? Or is it more effective to do a protector at each point?
Ideally you do both. The more you have the less of a transient the device at the end of the line will see. All of the manufacturers have good info on this.
It does, is better than nothing, but....AC is so expensive that you want to add an extra level. I will try to explain, anything coming through the utility pole will find the SPD in your main panel and it will drain as much as is capable to ground...some are rated for 22,500joules, most won't go over 50,000joules...and they will take the hit and shunt the bleeding down the ground/neutral wire. Yet, if something really nasty (Florida 140k easy or MidWest 80k-100k) hits too close, the rest will spread all over the wiring in your home, so if there is another checkpoint at the disconnect outside it will be diverted to ground before it hits the sensitive circuits in the condenser. And, it can also be local, not from the utility pole, a lighting strike on a tree in your backyard, then if meets your AC before it even gets inside your home.
My AC is 50 feet away from my distribution panel and I still have one despite I have a 50k one in the panel inside the house. And, I have a Type 1 SPD in the disconnect (I have a disconnect between the meter and my distribution panel, so my "main" panel is really a subpanel). The reason why I did it is because I also have a transfer switch for a generator so I wanted to protect BEFORE it hits my transfer switch. So, if it fries the first 36,000 SPD (Home Depot, good one), then it needs to fry the 50k one in the panel before it continues to the AC which has the one in the video, which blew up because it does not protect for a lot of joules....
My neighbor has the Square D 22,500K one and it fried, but mine which is 50k did not, so I believe that if you get a heavy duty one (Square D has a superb one of 80k) then it will absorb a voltage tsunami and live another day. This was important because I did not want anything exploding and catching fire in my basement, so I installed it inside a 6x6 metal box, so it it explodes it will be contained. I drilled a hole with a step drill bit to be able to see the light, but is inside the box like a tumor on the side of the electric panel.
If your SPD is a good one >50k then it should be enough to tackle the nasty juice without frying unless you are in Florida. IF IN FLORIDA OR TEXAS then spend $240 in a BAD WOLF surge protector. They are the best, they go over 260,000 joules of protection and even have EMP capabilities. They are cool, the wolf's eyes are the red lights to show it works. Those can take a direct hit because anything that strong will knock you down if it hits your home, ha! And, they are USA made by disabled veterans! is just that is double the price and if not in those lighting capitals of the USA is not really needed.
Sheesh
Shouldn't they have called an electrician?
bad camera angle
With the technology that is available today, why are these systems built into the meters as sop, the electric companies should provide clean regulated power.
Actually, whole house surge protectors are a requirement in the 2020 edition of the NEC code book, so be prepared to see more of them once your state adopts that edition.
There’s only so much a utility can do for the low voltage (relatively speaking) side of things. I don’t think this was a transformer blowing, it’s more likely a case of a medium voltage line fell onto a low voltage line, especially with the high winds the Midwest saw recently. The boom is almost never the transformer, it’s the nature of the fuses that protect them. In some areas some linemen call the shotgun fuses ;)
The electrical grid is a very complex machine. The power grids (there are three in the US) are the single largest and most complex machines in the world, and they have to be run very accurately.
I tried to sell them after selling a 1000 computer years ago they said no. Did we make profit on the surge yes. Computer maybe 4%.
That company is out of business. RadioShack.
I remember when a squirrel 🐿️ stepped on two phases on the line wire. Blew it up. Our houses survived, but the transformer was replaced. Good thing it was giving us problems.
The surge protector returned the surge to the line protecting the equipment. We have erico and Ge tranqual surge protectors. Nice video.