Shimano Drop Bar CUES...but BETTER
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Drop bar CUES has been officially announced and it's pretty good, but doesn´t unlock CUES full potential. A look at the "old" front cable pull CUES derailleur and why it is better than the new road oriented one.
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I'm currently in the Cave of Bad Ideas doing very similar things. I have a 95' Gary Fisher Alfresco frame and a 2x11 speed M7000 SLX drive train from the parts bin. To make it work with drop bars I am putting in a Sensah SRX Pro right shifter (11 speed with MTB pull) with a Sensah Team Pro left shifter (2x). I am using a 31.8mm clamp on cable stop to route the side swing FD to under the down-tube. We'll see what goes wrong...
I'm jazzed to have a 38/28t front ring with an 11-42t cassette to be able to winch myself up hills.
The Shimano DynaSys mountain bike front derailleurs will work with any of their drop bar shifters. I ran an SLX chainset with an SLX front derailleur controlled by 11 speed 105 controls quite happily. The SLX chainset gives you 38,28 down to 34,24 chainrings. It's a great option as well.
You're right. The choice of the derailleur is on the size and combination of chain rings. Not the style of shifter.
Another benefit of running a side swing front mech on a drop bar setup or any bike for that matter is potentially tire clearance -depending on the frame design and geo of course. For two years now I have my Kona Sutra (non-ultd) equipped with a side swing front XT mech paired with microshift bar ends to manage my sub sub sub compact 20-34 chainring setup. The Vittoria Mezcals 2.25", being on the beefy side for a bike of this kind, have slightly rubbed against my former down swing derailleur which raised my awareness of side swing ones to begin with. Glory to those riding uphill on 13.8 gear inches :D
Thanks. I didn't even know something like side swing does exist. Got me to thinking over.
Nailing effective mullet group stuff again. Love your work, Russ, a man after my own heart, simple, traditional, cheaper and better.
Russ! You've probably seen it already, but S-Ride released some 8,9,10 speed brifters, and I'd love to see a Peak Mechanical video featuring them and their compatibility with existing Shimano components, e.g. Cues and the "older" lineup of Altus, Claris, Sora, Alivio, etc etc.
That side swing is also so smart/nice because it doesn’t at all interfere with tire clearance between the seat tube and the tire. My Kona has a bottom pull RD and it takes up a few extra mm of space between the frame and tire. So while it can fit 2.2” x 29” in the rear, the clearance gets a bit tight near the RD cable entry point.
I was expecting the new cues to have a smaller chainrings so good on you. Silly how obvious it is that people need to go up a hill more than they need speed. Some private equity firm needs to throw an ungodly amount of money into selling hill climbing so the market can match up with natural consumer use.
Yall want less than 32:45 on drop bars? At that point, it's almost more work just to keep the bike balanced.
@spookyshark632 That's a fair statement. You can get comfortable biking at a walking pace assuming the hill is steep enough and you don't fight the suck. It's how my overweight A** is able to grind up gnarly stuff along side Strava addicts in lycra.
@@spookyshark632 30 x 11-42 here. That's about 19" to 75" on the gear inch chart. Good for the terrain around here.
Shimano's side-swing architecture started in MTBs and provided two advantages:
1. Unlike the top or bottom swing derailleurs where the rigid part of the cage has so much vertical leverage against the pivots on the clamp, leading the chain to resist shifting, side-swing pivots force the chain to shft significantly better.
2. the cable routing complements well with dropper post routing, leading to all 4 housings (rear brake, RD, FD, dropper) to be routed solely on the down tube (with the dropper and FD cables exiting early), especially in cross coutry MTBs where the top tubes have become so skinny that cable routing isn't feasible and bottom-pull results in mud being flung into the inside of housings.
Hopefully the flat bar front derailleurs will work with the drop bar shifters. The compatibility charts split flat bar and drop bar so it's not known.
It would be very disappointing if it turned out like legacy 9 speed stuff where the rear derailleur is fine but the MTB front derailleur isn't compatible with drop bar shifters.
Yeah, this is something I'm also keen to find out. If the front mechs all have a shared pull, it would really open up some great options. Fingers crossed! 🤞
Perfect topic for Bridge Club owners!
I think the side swing derailleurs are the best front derailleurs. The cable is shorter, less bends in the cable. Less force needed and snappier shifting.
SHORT CAGE WIDE RANGE DERAILURE!!!
11/39 on a small wheeled bike has me actually excited.
RD-U4010 is the part number, with only a 28t chain wrap it is a 1x dedicated part, but for those in the folding and mini velo community a 1x 11/39 10 speed with hydraulic brake options as a stock set up is a substantial step forward. If only Shimano didn't price gouge non OEM buyers🤨
I don't need this, I have Ltwoo R9 hydraulic installed on my mini velo 2x11 with a 53/39 x 11/30 (451 rims), just excited that a mainstream option will soon exist offering similar range (371% on the 2x vs 355% on the rd u4010) without basically maxing out the specs and being a bit too close to low curbs/debris. Although I am confident that I could just barely fit an 11/34 cassette and soundly win the range comparison, 355% is well within the area of likely being perfectly good enough for most use cases. Also, if I were on wider 406 wheels, my current set up might touch the tire as is, where this part shouldn't.
Both shifters on the same side looks awesome.
I am using the Shimano XT and XTR mountain side swing front derailleurs. They work in the snow, even on salted up state New York roads. If your bike has bottle cage bolts or cable mount hangers you can usually find a way to hold the cable. I use flat/alt bars so there are more options for shifters. I guess Shimano doesn't like your " cave of bad ideas" HeHe.
I too use side swing Shimano front mech - with SRAM Apex shifter on one bike, Shimano Deore MTB shifter on another. They are brilliant things, noticeably lighter action and less likely to clag up. Even more, thier clamp is so compact leaving room for mudguards...
I did a 2x side-pull setup last year with a Deore unit and getting the spacing right was a huge pain because the clamp-on units don't come in boost spacing (To my knowledge) and it was a boost-spaced La Cabra. Rather than 3D print an eccentric shim, I got a direct mount version of the derailleur and combined it with the Problem Solvers clamp-on direct mount adapter (In 29mm Boost offset, they sell several offset versions so you need to take care you get the right one), Of course this was on a flat bar bike, no brifters.
It would be interesting to see if the new Cues brifters work with the XT Linkglide derailleur, which can be paired with an 11-50 cassette.
The friction shift on the right side seems a bit mental, but now that I'm thinking about it, it is not the worst idea. Especially in a right side driving country, as opposed to mounting the shifter traditionally on the left bar end, that side stays free for a bar end mirror. For converting a 1x bike that seems like a very reasonable hack to not have to exchange your brifter and keep your mirror.
It would be mental for me as I am constantly switching bikes. I have a tough enough time with my Shimano RapidRise rear derailleur which requires a brain reset every time I get on my Rivendell. If I combined that with a right-front combination, I would end up in a straitjacket. Seriously though, this is a great solution for many bikes... very creative.
Shimano Essa also makes a 1x8 drop bar shifters paired with an 11-45 cassette.
Very cool set up!
Hoping you do a full review of the Primos bike. On paper it looks like a good value, but I would like to hear some real world feedback form someone that knows bikes
Just from looking at the CUES side swing, I definitely prefer the XT side-swing design. It prevents ice, snow and mud from getting into the mech. better. I've had no problems with cable protection routing.
How different is it?
@@PathLessPedaledTV just by looking, it has a metal hoood over the swinger/cable.
Thank god. It isn't nerdy. I like it a lot ;-)
You already had two 2x Cues cranksets - 40-26 and 46-30. I have both in 10sp. What I trust is that the new brifters work well with both.
Running a Sram X7 bottom/top pull FD designed for 10 speed on a 42/26 9 speed crankset.
Works flawlessly on my Surly with MicroShift friction thumbie.
Cheap ($19) and readily available in the UK from Bankrupt Bike parts.
Bought another so should see me thru my lifetime.
I did not actually get the cable routing thing but I really was taken with all the shifting on the right side. I always feel like shifting the front would be better with my right hand. Now I'm going to have to play with that idea. Thanks.
I prefer a friction FD, nice idea!
Side pull interesting option. thanks
Hallo Russ! Thank you so much for your great videos! It's always a pleasure to watch them. I wanted to ask you, do you find the drop bar style handlebars more comfortable, and/or safer than a flat bar style for a commuter bike? I have actually changed the drop bars on my regular road bike to a flat style, around 21 inches or 53 cm wide, that gives me a more upright/comfortable riding position, a quicker reach to the brake levers in case of any emergencies, and a more secure maneuverability when you need to interact with traffic and other riders on city commutes. MC 🤙
Front derailleur on my first bicycle had *zero* cable jackets because it had downtube shifters.
Claris + Acera + Square taper "perfect" group when. Before they all disappear under the new Essa stuff (man I hope they do a 2x Essa)
hi Russ whats the name of the crank/chainring? I like the 38/26 combi, thats the exact size combi ive been looking for.
Hey, there! I'm surprised that the H/L derailleur adjustment was not enough to offset the shim spacing. But it is what it is. Or maybe together with adjusting the chainline a bit from the BB? I don't know, I'm spitballing here, since I wasn't there.
Either way, I'm happy to see you lean into the European way of life :) And with how things are going on the other side of the ocean, your choice is all the better.
I have a different and weird question for you, however: do you remember seeing dogs at Eurobike last year? We're considering visiting this year and we're trying to figure out whether dogs are allowed or not. The organisers are yet to respond, so there's that.
Thanks and I enjoy your videos almost each time :)
I think it was designed with wider MTB BBs in mind. I don't think dogs are allowed in the convention center.
Can you mount it on the diagonal tube?
Am I seeing pricing online correctly? $900 for the groupset?
What is the model number on that front derailleur? FD-u4000?
Primos bikes look raddd
Russ lots of great ideas as always. I notice a Shimano train lately. Is there any suggestions on a SRAM option for sub sub compact front gearing? I'd like to change out some of an existing drive train but not all of it. Great stuff Russ keep the supple side down sir.
Modern SRAM sucks for low gearing options TBH. Its golden age was during their WiFli era in 9spd. They said. If you look at our Ritchey Montebello review i did manage a subcompact crank set.
The shortest cranks available are 170s… Why aren’t they listening?
i saw 165 is availble in 1x FC-U6030-1
Don't fall for the next hype. I didn't go for 180 mm in 2010, I won't go for 165. Will stick to 175 mm, which fits me great on road, mountain and gravel bikes since 1990.
I had been waiting for drop bar CUES. However, I feel they missed the mark with the brake calipers. Having the caliper designed so it only works with 160 mm rotors is a no go for me, unless the two piston post mount calipers from the MTB line work with the system.
They will work with the system.
@@All4Grogg depends on the hosing all 4 piston options and deore and above two piston callipers use the bh90 type hosing. The lower end stuff (which can still give good braking) uses bh59. I think cues takes bh59. You will be able to pear them up with IS type callipers
@@jsca470 This is a good point.
It looks like the CUES drop bars indeed use BH59 hoses, but this is where it gets a bit odd as the difference between bh59 and bh90 is the inner diameter and the olive which better crushes on the stiffer bh90 hose to form the seal.
It will work, provided the proper barb is matched. ie a bh90 caliper, bh90 hose, bh90 olive will connect to a bh59 lever and provide braking.
What changes in modulation and feel. Due to the smaller diameter of the BH90 hose the braking will bite a bit sharper vs the larger diameter BH59.
The import bit is using the correct olive and ensuring that if the caliper is a banjo fitting to get the corresponding hose kit.
Seems silly, but the BH59 standard was intended to be softer for new riders accustomed to weak brakes.
It's the same system that campag' uses, only starting at 160 rather than 140 so given the frame mounts are mostly standard you should be able to use a Campy adapter at the front to go up in size BUT a campy 140-160 will work as 160-180 on CUES, and for the rear a standard Shimano mount will work, but the same logic applies (140 to 160 = 160 to 180). I'm sure Shimano or some 3rd party will release some specific adapters, though.
Biggest problem is there are some frames and forks that use FM160 not 140 which will make 180 rotors your smallest option.
Well, 46 - 32 cranks, that'll do. Can go up to 42 cassette I presume?
Can go up to 11-45.
@PathLessPedaledTV Aha! Thank you Sir Russ. I'll be looking into that to replace my ridden to death 3 x 9
Now you're living in Spain you could check put the Finna landscape
road bike FD could use on the 44/40-26/24 chainring combine, it's just about the bb drop, it should not be over 75.
Yes. I’ve tried those on the channel but depending on the frame it may run into the chain stay. Also the main advantage of this style is that you don’t need to route it around the bottom bracket.
Would it work with a 38/22 combo?
yes
Could have some fun with colourful zip ties
Quick question: aren’t all CUES 1:1 pull, and if so, doesn’t that make friction shifters an overly long pull? Maybe 2 questions, I guess. LOL
Not the front.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Ah! Grant had stated in the Riv shop that they had issues due to pull ratio and chain size. Now I'm thinking it had more to do with chainline. I see you're using your prototype cranks. Maybe the real hack for friction shifters is using a front derailleur with a 48.8mm chainline with a crankset having a 43.5mm chainline? I guess it might be something to explore in the cave?
@ I’m using the Riv bar end with the CUES fd in this video and it works great.
looking goofy is cool
Who cares if its goofy if it does what you want. Look at TT helmets 🤷🏽
Needing a round seat tube to mount that kind of front derailleur unfortunately rules out 75%+ of modern road and gravel bikes. Probably not much of a problem for the steel and classic-style bikes that this vlogger likes to use, but it makes this a no-starter for most people with their current frames that have braze on mounts and weird tube shapes.
Not my problem or my job to find solutions for every bike in existence.
Get new tires
I need a dictionary watching this… 2by, shim, drop Que, sub sub 26, bottom pole, side swing, group set…. 👀
It’s always good to expand your vocabulary.
Looks alright. Better than I might have expected.
Although im kind of shocked nobody makes a bottom bracket cable guide that you can put on with epoxy. Or pehaps they do and I just haven't seen it yet.
In either case it seems a bit silly for a steel bike with (what looks to be) a standard seat tube size to not at least have a threaded hole under the BB for the DIY tinker types.
2x is not dead folks.