Top End Torque Settings, ALMOST FINISHED!! - Clio 182 Turbo - read description
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- BIGGER HALF MOON OF THE CAMS ON TOP!!!
Shouldn’t do these when I’m tired 😂 sorry for the mistake.
KNOCK SENSOR AND OIL FILTER - 20 N.M, god knows why they didn't work lol
In the final stages of finishing the rebuild, here i give you the TORQUE SETTINGS for the complete top end of the engine, and run over what I've done so far!
Music by Foria - Break Away NCS release
Awesome stuff,, I'm a little late to the party as I've only just bought me a clio 172 2003reg. But incase you read this,, did you paint your cam cover yourself,, if so what dis you use?
I'm still here, just haven't done a video in a while. If I remember it's just some heat temperature red paint from good old Halfords, the bush on tins
Awesome videos! Got a question though. You mention the smaller half moon of the cams is supposed to be upwards. I've seen in other places it's supposed to be pointing downward and the bigger half upwards. Is this correct?
Thanks!
Check the description, 😅😅 I soon noticed the mistake but I dont think I can edit the video
Looks absolutely amazing. Are you on cliosport.net ? you should post a link to your videos/channel there.
Gus Nilsson I’m not tbh, I’m on the Facebook pages a little but really should sign up to the forums again.
@@Steffrallye Steffrallye Hi, do you know what the Torque Settings are for Megane 225 I've been given Two different Settings using stock Head Bolts; 20nm check all are 20nm after 30minutes then all 100deg them another 100deg.//. other setting: 30nm after 30minutes check 30nm then 180deg.... Thanks
@@cbrf4r579 its 30nm 30nm then 180 degree.
Thank mate
With the cylinder head bolts , stage 1 is 30nm then you leave it for 30 mins if I am correct? When you come back and do stage 2 which is also 30nm, do you undo / slacken the headbolts and retorq to 30nm? I’m a bit confused as to what it means to “retorq” the bolts at 30nm if they are already at 30nm I just presumed it means slacken the bolts by undoing them a bit and retorquing again to 30nm? And then immediately do 180 degrees ? Hope that made sense steff! Any feedback would be appreciated :)
BIAWolf hey, basically you do the 30nm, go off, make a cuppa and a sandwich. Come back and go round them again 30nm.
You DONT slacken them, basically while you leave it the head settles and compresses the gasket. When you go round the second time your find they will tighten a little more as they’ve become slack. Some will, some won’t.
It’s just away to be 100% sure it’s at the right pressure alround, then do the 180 after. Hope that makes sense
Steffrallye ah ok, do you recommend a higher torx setting for a 1.6mm headgasket? That’s what I’ll be using
BIAWolf no no, torque settings stay the same. Gasket size doesn’t make a difference.
Steffrallye ok mate thankyou, do you use anything on the new head bolts out of interest ? Loctite or pre assembly lube? I’m not rebuilding the engine like you have , just putting a new head gasket and belts etc so a bit of engine oil where the cams sit etc?
BIAWolf just check the holes for the head bolts are clean and not full of oil so the bolts run down without issue. Bolts go in straight out the box.
Yep either just some lube or oil on the areas of the cam, rockers that will make contact on turn over
Stock or upgraded valve springs?
I'm actually still on stock valve springs 😅 my idea was the engine was revving no higher so will be fine, and well it has been but if I come to strip it down at any point i think I'll be fitting some just for safety.
Just inconel supertech valves, port and polished, new valve guides, seats cut and three angle
@@Steffrallye thanks mate 👌
@@Steffrallye btw where do you connect the water lines for the turbo?
@@pedrocunha5863 mine currently run from the thermostat housing to the turbo and then from the turbo back into the coolant tank. Tho it's better to run it from the heater matrix pipes really, where they join together before the bulk head
@@Steffrallye you are great! Thanks a lot 👌